IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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1.0 


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■tfUi- 

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L25  iU   11.6 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WnSTIR.N.Y.  MSM 

(716)  •78-4503 


V 


4. 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  institute  for  l^istorical  I^Aicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  liistoriques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notea  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Inatituta  haa  attamptad  to  obtain  the  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturaa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaliy  uniqua. 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 


n 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagte 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pellicula 


I      I   Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiquas  en  couleur 


□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

pn   Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrationa  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avac  d'autrea  documents 


r~71    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 


along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  nerrie  peut  causer  de  i'ombre  ou  de  la 

distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  toxte, 
mais.  lorsqua  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pagea  n'ont 
paa  6xi  filmAas. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmantairas; 


Tho< 
toth 


L'institut  a  microfilm^  la  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  At6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthoda  normaie  de  fiimage 
aont  indiquto  ci-dassous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


D 

D 


Pagea  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  rf^s? surges  et/ou  peliiculAes 

Pagea  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pagea  dAcolor^as.  tacheties  ou  piquAes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualit^  inigaia  de  i'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarii 
Comprend  du  material  supplAmentaire 


n~|  Pages  damaged/ 

nri  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~y|  Pagea  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~p\  Showthrough/ 

r~]  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~n  Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Thai 
posa 
ofth 
filmii 


Origl 

begli 

thai 

aion, 

othe 

firat 

sion. 

or  ill 


Thai 
shall 
TINL 
whic 

Mapi 
diffa 
antir 
bagli 
right 
requ 
metl 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiallement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure. 
etc..  ont  M  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fapon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indlqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

V 

12X 


16X 


aox 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

MorlsMt  Library 
University  of  Ottawn 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quaiity 
possibie  considering  the  condition  and  iegibiiity 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ►  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAn^rosM  de: 

Bibliothique  Morinot 
Univsraitt  d'Ottawa 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  At*  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformit*  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim*e  sont  filmfo  en  commenpant 
par  Ie  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derni*re  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  Ie  second 
plat,  salon  Ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film*s  en  commengant  par  la 
premiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  Ie 
cas:  Ie  symbols  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  Ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  fttre 
filmfo  *  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seui  clichA,  11  est  f  ilm4  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  Ie  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


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3 

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TEN  YEAES  IN  OEEGON. 


^: 


BY  D.  LEE  AND  J.  H.  FROST, 

LATE  OF  THE  OREGON  MISSION  OF  THE  METHODIST  EPISCOPAL  CHURCH. 


The  Albatross. 


NEW-VORK: 

PUBLISHED  FOR  THE  AUTHORS  :  200  MULBERRY-STREET. 

•  .  J.  Collord,  Printer. 

1844. 


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"  Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 
'     D.  Lee  &  J.  H.  Frost,  in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court 
of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York." 


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PREFACE. 


■     X  ' 


-v..  ^'^^  .     :t  '■  .        :.  /    .   ^.  •■' '     -  :,;-:-;-:  '■■'  > 

*  The  American  churches,  and  the  public  in 
general,  have  been  anxiously  waiting  for  cor- 
rect information  of  a  more  extensive  and  par- 
ticular kind,  concerning  the  Oregon  Territory, 
than  they  have  hitherto  been  favoured  with. 
And  if  the  following  work  is  in  any  tolerable 
degree  calculated  to  furnish  the  information 
required,  the  authors  will  have  secured  the 
principal  object  for  which  they  undertook  the 
task  of  writing  a  book.  If  it  is  not,  the  usual 
excuses  upon  such  an  occasion  are  well  known; 
and  they  may  claim  the  benefit  of  them,  in  com- 
mon with  others.  - 

If  our  work  should  appear  upon  examination 
to  be  in  some  respects  disjointed,  or  dispropor- 
tioned,  it  must  be  remembered  that  it  has  been 
our  object  not  to  make  our  volume  so  large  as 
to  put  it  out  of  the  reach  of  hundreds  who 
might  not  feel  able  to  purchase  a  large  work, 
and  in  so  doing  we  have  been  under  the  ne- 
cessity of  abridging  all  its  parts.        "^  '  hi 

But  we  have  endeavoured,  as  far  as  our 


V 


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, 


li 


4  PREFACE. 

limits  would  permit,  to  lay  before  our  readers 
all  the  most  important  particulars  connected 
with  the  history  of  that  country,  from  the  time 
that  the  north-west  coast  was  discovered  by 
Capt.  Cook,  in  the  year  1792,  until  the  present. 
And  it  becomes  us  to  state  here,  that  for  the 
knowledge  which  we  are  enabled  to  communi- 
cate concerning  that  territory  from  the  year 
1792  down  to  the  establishment  of  the  Oregon 
Mission  in  the  year  1834,  we  are  principally 
indebted  to  the  work  entitled  "Astoria,"  which 
is  from  the  pen  of  our  much-esteemed  country- 
man, Washington  Irving,  Esq.  And  we  have 
not  hesitated  to  make  use  of  the  language  of 
that  accomplished  author  as  far  as  it  has  suited 
our  convenience.  And  we  can  freely  vouch 
for  the  authenticity  of  that  work,  if  this  should 
be  thought  necessary;  for  we  have  had  an 
opportunity  of  comparing  it  with  the  subject 
of  which  it  treats,  and  also  with  the  personal 
knowledge  of  several  gentlemen  who  have 
resided  for  many  years  in  that  country. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  face  of  that  country 
was  obtained  by  actual  observation,  having 
travelled  through,  and  resided  in,  the  most 
important  portions  thereof ;  and  by  information 
received  from  gentlemen  of  veracity  who  have 
resided  there  for  many  years,  and  travelled 
very  extensively  in  almost  every  part  of  it. 


~i:m^^- 


^ 


PREFACE.  O 

ft  As  one  of  us  resided  there  for  the  space  of 
ten  years,  and  the  other  between  three  and  four 
years,  we  had  a  sufficient  opportunity  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  cUmate,  soil,  and  produc- 
tions of  the  country ;  and  as  our  residence  was 
immediately  and  continually  among  the  In- 
dians, and  as  we  had  communications  with 
them  daily,  we  consider  ourselves  fully  pre- 
pared to  judge  of  their  character  and  habits ; 
and  as  it  was  our  primary  object  while  among 
them  to  labour  as  far  as  circumstances  would 
permit  for  their  spiritual  welfare,  and  to  observe 
the  effects  produced  by  the  communication  of 
religious  truths  to  their  dark  understandings, 
as  far  as  their  very  limited  language  would 
enable  us  to  do  so,  we  have  been  able  to  judge 
with  reference  to  the  prospects  of  bringing  them 
into  the  enjoyment  of  the  blessings  of  civiliza- 
tion and  Christianity.  ...      ,v.,. 

We  were  prepared  to  give  more  copious 
examples  of  their  manners  and  customs ;  but 
presume  that  the  examples  we  have  given  will 
be  deemed  satisfactory  by  the  generality  of 
readers,  and  feared  that  we  might  become 
tedious  by  dwelling  at  greater  length  upon  this 
part  of  our  subject.  Their  superstitions  are 
exceedingly  numerous,  and  deeply  rooted,  and 
it  would  require  a  volume  to  give  anything 
like  a  full  account  of  them,  and  after  it  was 


m- 


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«..-,.-v.  .^,.-.- 


'I 

8.1 


I 


6  PREFACE. 

written  it  would  be  of  no  real  service  to  the 
reader,  so  we  have  contented  ourselves  with 
giving  an  account  of  but  a  few  of  them. 

By  the  perusal  of  our  work  the  reader  will 
get  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  toils,  privations,  and 
difficulties  through  which  the  missionaiy  is 
called  to  pass,  while  labouring  for  the  salvation 
of  his  fellow-men  in  heathen  wilds ;  and  we 
trust  this  view  of  things  will  lead  the  Christian, 
and  all  the  friends  of  missions,  to  wrestle  more 
earnestly  with  God  in  fervent  prayer  for  the 
sustaining  influences  of  the  Holy  Ghost  to  be 
poured  out  upon  his  servants  and  handmaidens, 
while  thus,  in  their  isolated  situations,  they 
forego  all  the  blessings  of  a  happy.  Christian 
home,  and  spend  their  health  and  lives  for  the 
salvation  of  their  wretched  brethren ;  and  that 
they  will  still  be  sustained  by  continual  exer- 
tions in  other  respects. 

And  as  the  white  population  of  that  country 
has  from  the  first  shared  in  the  labo^irs  of  the 
missionaries,  and  are  still  sharing  in  their 
labours,  we  have  endeavoured  to  show  to  what 
extent  the  Word  of  Life  has  proved  effectual 
in  bringing  them  from  darkness  to  light,  and 
from  the  power  of  Satan  unto  God.  ;'  ; 


■I*- 


CONTENTS. 


.f'Av, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Captain  Cook's  voyage  in  the  Pacific  Ocean — Captain  Gray,  of  Boston, 
enters  Columbia  River — Some  of  his  ship's  crew  call  at  a  native  village, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  flee,  never  having  seen  white  men  before — Van- 
couver visits  the  River,  and  his  Lieutenant,  Broughton,  explores  it — 
Capt.  J.  Carver's  projected  exploration  of  Columbia  River — Lewis  and 
Clark's  expedition — ^John  Jacob  Astor's  trading  scheme — Pacific  Fur 
Company, Page  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Part  of  the  company  embark  on  board  ship  Tonqum  for  the  purpose  of 
establishing  a  t:  iding  post — Select  a  place,  and  call  it  Astoria — The  Ton- 
guin  arrives  at  Vancouver's  Island — Massacre  of  her  crew  by  the  Indians — 
Blown  up  by  one  of  the  survivors  of  the  massacre — Others  of  them  put  to 
death  by  the  Indians — Stratagem  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  to  ensure  himself  and 
friends  against  their  violence — Mansion  completed — Schooner  finished  and 
launched — ^New-Year  celebration, 18 

CHAPTER  HI. 

Departure  of  the  land  expedition — St.  Louis — Missouri  River— Missouri 
Fur  Company — Daniel  Boon,  of  Kentucky — Mad  River — Travellers  ar- 
rive at  Mr.  Henry's  post,  and  take  possession  of  huts  deserted  by  him — A 
party  of  hunters  leave  for  the  purpose  of  trapping  beaver — Man  lost — Ar- 
rive at  a  terrific  strait,  and  encamp — Separate  into  several  detachments — 
Meet  with  Indians,  and  obtain  some  salmon  and  a  dog  for  food — Mr.  Hunt 
purchases  a  horse  for  an  old  tin  kettle — The  party  abandon  the  river,  and. 
suffer  from  thirst — Meet  with  another  party  who  are  in  a  state  of  starvation 
— Kill  two  horses  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  hunger — Celebrate  New- Year 
on  dogs  and  horse  flesh — Arrive  at  Astoria,  and  meet  with  some  of  their  old 
comrades, .26 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Several  expeditions  depart  from  Astoria — Skirmish  with  the  Indians — 
Arrive  at  Oakinagan — Set  out  on  their  return  to  Astoria — Encounter  com- 
panions of  a  former  expedition,  who  were  supposed  to  be  lost — Arrive  at 
Astoria — Mr.  Astor  sends  an  agent  to  St.  Peteraburgh — He  despatches  a 
vessel  to  Oregon — She  arrives  at  Astoria — Parties  go  out  to  establish  new 
trading  posts — A  band  separate  from  the  main  body  on  a  journey  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains — Meet  four  of  their  former  compamons,  who  join 
them — Their  horses  stolen  by  Indians — Encamp  for  the  winter — Arrive  at 
St.  Louis, 30 


E  i 


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8 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Agent  sent  to  St.  Petersburgh  negotiates  an  agreement — Mr.  Astor  sends 
out  another  vessel  to  the  settlement  on  the  Columbia — Messrs.  Stuart,  Clark, 
and  M'Kenzie  establish  new  posts — Caches  robbed  by  Snake  Indians,  who 
are  attacked  by  the  Blackfeet,  who  seize  their  booty — The  Beaver  departs 
on  a  coasting  voyage — M'Kenzie  breaks  up  his  establishment,  and  returns 
to  Astoria— He  and  others  set  out  on  a  journey — ^Three  of  them  enter  a 
lodgment  of  Indians,  and  are  in  imminent  danger — ^Arrives  at  his  former 
station,  and  finds  that  his  caches  have  been  robbed — Mr.  Clark  causes  an 
Indian  to  be  hung — They  return  to  Astoria, 48 


i\ 


'  CHAPTER  VI. 

The  partners  at  Astoria  agree  to  abandon  the  country — Action  of  the 
British  and  American  governments  in  reference  to  the  new  settlement — 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  at  Astoria,  marries  the  daughter  of  an  Indian  chief- 
Anecdote — The  Beaver  makes  her  way  to  China,  leaving  Mr.  Hunt  on  the 
Sandwich  Islands — He  returns  to  Astoria — Wreck  of  the  Lark,  and  suflFer- 
ings  of  her  crew — ^The  furs  and  merchandise  belonging  to  Mr.  Astor  sold 
to  the  North- West  Fur  Company — Arrival  of  a  British  sloop  of  war,  whose 
commander  takes  possession  of  the  establishment  at  Astoria  in  the  name 
of  his  British  Majesty — Treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Oreat 
Britain  as  to  the  occupancy  of  Oregon — Reflections,       ...       59 


CHAPTER  VH. 


^ 


Description  of  the  country — Columbia  River  and  its  tributaries — Annual 
floods — Vancouver — Multnomah  Island — Clatsop  Plain — ^Walamet  River 
— «Bd  Falls — Valleys — Plains — Productiveness  of  the  soil — Climate — Black- 
fish  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length — ^Whales — Epidemics,        .        81 


CHAPTER  Vm. 

Number  of  Indians  in  Oregon  Territory — Their  character— Wars  among 
them — Personal  appearance — Dress — Description  of  those  inhabiting  the 
lower  country — Their  heads  flattened  in  infancy — ^Anecdote  illustrative  of 
their  shrewdness — Slaves  among  them — Polygamy — They  sell  their  daugh- 
ters— ^Their  moral  characters-Wild  animals— Fish,  ...       05 


CHAPTER  IX. 


'w!^'*-  ■, 


Sand-bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia — Loss  of  the  ship  William  and 
Ann — Of  the  Isabella — Of  a  vessel  from  Asia — Streams  of  the  country 
possess  petrifying  qualities,  trees  and  other  things  exposed  to  their  action 
naving  been  found  in  a  petrified  state — ^Japanese  junk  cast  away — The 
epidemic  ague — Indians'  idea  of  its  origin — Mr.  David  Douglass  visits 
Oregon — A  party  of  American  traders  under  command  of  Captain  Wyeth 
cross  the  Mountains, lOG 


#^ 


'if- 


CONTENTS, 


9 


CHAPTER  X. 

Causes  which  induced  the  establiahinent  of  the  Oregcn  Mission — Dr. 
Fisk  enlists  in  its  favour — Rev.  Jason  and  Daniel  Lee  appointed  mission- 
aries— Missionary  meetings,  in  furtherance  of  the  enterprise,  held — Mr. 
Jason  Lee  goes  to  Boston  to  consult  with  Captain  Wyeth  as  to  the  propriety 
of  establishing  the  mission — ^Messrs.  Lee  set  out  for  the  west,  and  arrive 
at  St.  Louis — 'Join  a  party,  who  start  for  the  Rocky  Mountains — Desmptioa 
of  the  party,  and  of  their  method  of  travelling — Kanzas  Indians — The 
antelope — Buffalo — A  company  of  emigrants  attacked  by  Indians,    .      109 

CHAPTER  XL 

Rendezvous — Description  of  country — Hunting  and  battle  ^ound  of  the 
Indians — The  party  take  up  their  line  of  march — Soda  Sprmg — Erect  a 
fort — Procure  buffalo  meat — Accident — Fort  Hall  sold  to  Hudson's  Bay 
Company — Missionaries  join  another  party — Description  of  country  and 
of  Indians — Blue  Mountains — Travellers  arrive  at  Fort  Wallah-wallah 
— Summary  of  travel — ^Arrive  at  Vancouver — Location  for  mission  se- 
lected,      118 

CHAPTER  Xn. 

Claims  of  the  Flathead  Indians  not  sufficient  to  induce  the  missionaries 
to  establish  a  mission  among  them — Mission  commenced  on  the  Walamet — 
Description  of  the  incipient  labours  of  the  missionaries — A  party  from 
California  arrives — Indian  youth  left  with  the  missionaries  to  be  instruct- 
ed— A  party  of  whites,  who  had  been  attacked  by  the  Indians,  arrives  at 
the  mission — Intermittent  fever — Mr.  Nuttall,  the  naturalist — Death  of  a 
trapper,  and  addition  to  the  mission  family — Mr.  D.  Lee  embarks  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands  for  the  improvement  of  his  health,       .        .        .        127 


^< 


CHAPTER  Xni. 

Voyage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands — Sea  sickness — Arrival — Mr.  Lee  is 
cordially  received  by  missionaries — Their  mission — Arrival  of  a  Quaker 
missionary  from  London — Return  of  Mr.  Lee — Loss  of  a  ship's  crew — State 
of  affairs  at  the  mission  during  Mr.  Lee's  absence — Temperance  Society 
formed — Mr.  Lee  engages  in  medical  practice — Provision  for  mission  family 
—First  conversion  of  a  white  man  in  Oregon,         ....        135 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Mission  settlement  receives  a  visit  from  Mr.  Wm.  A.  Slocum — Petition 
to  congress  from  people  at  the  settlement,  calling  upon  the  American  go- 
vernment to  protect  them  by  its  laws — Mr.  J.  Lee  procures  cattle  from 
California — Arrival  of  reinforcement  to  the  misson,  from  the  United  States 
— An  attempt  to  murder  an  Indian  chief — Mission  schools — Happy  deaths — 
History  of  a  sabbath  in  Oregon — Another  reinforcement  arrives — ^Attempt 
of  missionaries  to  improve  the  condition  of  Calapooyas — Plans  to  extend 

the  work  formed, 144 

1* 


mmmm 


t- 


.^ 


■h 


to 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Mission  established  at  the  Dalls — Visited  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  on  his  way 
to  the  United  States — Journeys  of  missionaries — Meetings  among  the 
Indians — Death  of  Mrs.  J.  Lee— Escape  of  Mr.  Leslie  and  Mrs.  White 
fipom  imminent  danger — Description  of  Mr,  D.  Lee's  journey  to  and  from 
Walamet — Caroustus  amon^  the  Dalls — Fire  eater — Medicine  men — Cir- 
cumstances related,  illustrative  of  the  character  of  the  Dalls,      .      .      151 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Mr.  David  Leslie  has  charge  of  Oregon  Mission  during  the  absence  of 
Mr.  J.  Lee — His  house  burned — Glorious  revival  of  religion  at  the  Walamet 
station — One  of  the  converts  drowned — Happy  deaths — Death  of  Mr.  Cyrus 
Shepard,  and  extract  from  a  letter  written  by  him — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins 
return  to  the  Dalls  station — Farming  operations — Statement  by  General 
Jackson — Description  of  Indian  character  and  customs,  .        .        166 

Z    .  CHAPTER  XVn. 

Account  of  the  "work  of  God"  at  the  Dalls  in  1839,  '40— Specimen  of 
an  Indian  prayer — Dancing-hall  used  as  a  meeting-house — Preaching  of  the 
missionaries,  and  formation  of  classes — Baptism  of  conveits — Camp-meet- 
ing—Communion  administered  to  several  hundred  Indians — Affairs  at 
the  Walamet  station — Trip  to  Walamet  and  Clicnook — Arrival  of  the 
Lausanne  with  a  reinforcement  to  the  mission,  accompanied  by  Mr.  J. 
Lee, 182 

CHAPTER  XVni. 

Description  of  the  Columbia  River,  dike,  rapids,  rocky  islands,  &c. — 
Whirlpool,  in  which  a  party  belonging  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were 
engulfed,  and  most  of  them  perished — Indian  mode  of  fishing— More  than 
one  thousand  Indians  employ  a  portion  of  their  time  in  the  salmon  fishery — 
The  Cascades — Indian  hymn  and  translation 196 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Missions  of  the  American  Board  and  others — A  monomaniac  burned  to 
death — Introduction  of  a  printing  press,  and  the  publication  of  books  in  the 
native  tongues — Children  drowned — Indians  form  a  civil  compact — ^Hud- 
son Bay  Company's  express — Catholics  establish  a  mission — Two  Scotch 
naturalists  drowned — Mr.  Pambeam  thrown  from  his  horse  and  killed— A 
body  of  emigrants  settle  in  the  country, 206 

CHAPTER  XX. 

A  reinforcement  to  the  mission  set  out  from  New-York — Incidents  of  the 
voyage — Arrive  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Occurrences  there — Reach  As- 
toria— Disappointed  on  finding  that  it  consisted  of  but  three  or  four  houses — 
Voyage  to  Vancouver— Missionaries  appointed  to  their  various  fields  of 
labour — Marriajge  of  Rev.  D.  Lee — A  company  of  missionaries  arrive  at 
the  Dalls — Trip  to  Vancouver — Dr.  Richmond's  joviraey — Two  of  the 
miasionaries  set  out  for  Astoria— Return  to  Vancouver — Incidents  of  the 
journey,  216 


f'-'-^( 


■^ 


CONTENTS. 


11 


on  his  way 
among  the 
Mrs.  White 
to  and  from 
3  men — Cir- 
.      .      151 


absence  of 
the  Walamet 
of  Mr.  Cyrus 
lire.  Perkins 

by  General 
166 


Specimen  of 
aching  of  the 
-Camp-meet- 
I — Affaire  at 
rrival  of  the 
d  by  Mr.  J. 
182 


lands,  &c. — 

Dmpany  were 

—More  than 

non  fishery — 

196 


iac  burned  to 
books  in  the 
mpact — ^Hud- 
-Two  Scotch 
nd  killed— A 
206 


cidents  of  the 
5— Reach  As- 
four  houses — 
ous  fields  of 
ies  arrive  at 
-Two  of  the 
sidents  of  the 
216 


;l 


CHAPTER  XXL     t 

Account  of  the  Dalls  resumed— A  cold-blooded  murder  committed — En- 
counter with  Indians — Mission  family  suffer  from  sickness — Camp  meeting 
— Mr.  D.  Lee's  voyage  from  and  to  the  Dalls — Journey  to  the  Walamet 
station — Death  of  Mrs.  Leslie — Birth — Marriages — Annual  meeting — 
Building — Religious  meetings — Death  of  Mre,  Jason  Lee — Mr.  and  Mre.  D. 
Lee's  voyage  to  and  from  Vancouver — Eruption  of  a  volcano — Visit  to 
Walamet  Falls,  and  return — Religious  state  of  the  natives — Remarkable 
converaion — Mr.  and  Mre.  D.  Lee  sail  for  the  United  States,      .      .     241 

CHAPTER  XXn. 

Voyage  of  Mr.  Frost  and  family  feom  Vancouver  to  Astoria — Murders 
committed — A  body  of  Indians  arrive  to  protect  the  settlement — One  of 
the  murderers  is  shot — Another  of  them  is  hung — Mr.  Frost  and  othere 
visit  Mr.  Smith  at  Clatsop  Plains — Indian  mother  and  her  child — Mr. 
Frost  visits  Walamet  Mission  and  returns — Barbarous  act  by  the  Indians — 
Indian  trick — Mission  family  establish  themselves — Extract  from  Mr. 
Frost's  journal — His  laboure  among  the  Indians — Salmon  feast — Indian 
tt:adition, 266 

CHAPTER  XXm. 

Mr.  Frost  attends  the  yearly  meeting  at  Walamet — Manual  Labour 
School — The  Oregon  Institute — Visitere — Extract  from  Mr.  Frost's  jour- 
nal— Exploring  expedition — Messre.  Smith  and  Frost's  journey  to  and  from 
Walamet — Kilemook  Indians — Mr.  Kone  and  family  return  to  the  United 
States — Extracts  from  Mr.  Frost's  journal — Arrival  of  vessels — Immorality 
of  seamen  who  visited  Oregon — Reflections — Indians  obtain  ardent  spirits, 
and  proceed  to  murder  one  another — Some  of  the  missionaries  embark  for 
the  United  States — Death  of  Rev.  James  OUey — Awful  disaster — Return 
of  missionaries  to  the  United  States,  and  conclusion,    .        .        .        302 


CHENOOK  CANOE. 


&■ 


■& 


im*.  *  - 


>. 


<«i 


TEN  YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


i 


CHAPTER  I. 

Captain  Cook's  voyage  in  the  Pacific  Ocean — Captain  Gray,  of  Boston, 
enters  Columbia  River — Some  of  his  ship's  crew  call  at  a  native  village, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  flee,  never  having  seen  white  men  before — Van- 
couver visits  the  River,  and  his  Lieutenant,  Broughton,  explores  it — Capt. 
J.  Carver's  projected  exploration  of  Columbia  River — Lewis  and  Clark's 
expedition— Jomi  Jacob  Astor's  trading  sc]^eme — Pacific  Fur  Company. 

That  truly  renowned  navigator,  Captain  Cook,  while 
prosecuting  his  last  voyage  in  the  Pacific  Ocean,  be- 
came acquainted  with  the  vast  quantities  of  sea  otter, 
beaver,  and  other  valuable  furs  to  be  obtained  on  the 
north-west  coast,  and  the  immense  prices  to  be  obtained 
for  those  furs  in  China.  When  this  knowledge  was 
communicated  to  the  civilized  world  it  was,  says  Wash- 
ington Irving,  as  if  a  new  gold  coast  had  been  disco- 
vered. Individuals  from  many  of  the  civilized  nations 
engaged  in  this  very  lucrative  traffic :  so  that  in  the 
year  1792  it  is  said  there  were  twenty-one  vessels 
under  different  flags  plying  along  the  coast,  and  trading 
with  the  natives.  The  greater  part  of  these  vessels 
were  American,  and  owned  by  Boston  merchants. 

But  little  was  known  of  the  Columbia  River,  but  the 
fact  that  it  existed,  except  the  vague  and  indefinite  in- 
formation gathered  from  Indian  reports,  up  to  the 
above  date,  when  Captain  Gray  of  Boston  entered  it, 
notwithstanding  the  sand-bar  and  breakers  off  its 
mouth,  on  board  of  the  Columbia,  and  caused  the 
American  colours  to  wave  over  Baker's  Bay,  where  she 
came  to  anchor.  > 

The  latitude  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  accord- 
ing to  the  document  now  before  me,  is  46°  19"  north. 
A  boat  was  well  manned,  and  sent  on  shore,  to  a  vil- 


n> 


i] 


it ! 


14 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


lage  on  the  beach,  (the  village  referred  to  was  that  of  the 
Chenook  Indians ;)  but  all  the  inhabitants  fled,  except 
the  aged  and  infirm.  The  kind  manner  in  which  these 
were  treated,  and  the  presents  given  them,  gradually 
lured  back  the  others,  and  a  friendly  intercourse  took 
place.  This  was  the  first  ship,  and  these  the  first  white 
men,  that  those  Indians  ever  saw.  They  entertained 
various  conjectures  relative  to  the  vessel  when  in  the 
distance,  supposing  her  to  be  a  floating  island,  then  a 
monster  of  the  deep ;  but  when  they  saw  the  boat  pull- 
ing for  shore  with  human  beings  on  board,  they  de- 
cided that  they  were  cannibals  sent  by  some  superior 
being  to  devour  them,  and  ravage  their  country.  And 
I  imagine  that  I  now  see  them  all  squatting  together 
like  so  many  frogs,  consulting  with  reference  to  their 
future  course,  in  a  language  full  as  melodious,  and  in- 
dicative of  as  much  intelligence,  as  that  of  his  frogship. 

Capt.  Gray  ascended  the  river  as  far  as  the  bay  which 
bears  his  name  to  this  day,  a  short  distance  above 
Astoria.  After  putting  to  sea,  he  fell  in  with  the  cele- 
brated discoverer  Vancouver,  and  informed  him  of  his 
discovery,  furnishing  him  with  a  chart  which  he  had 
made  of  the  river.  Vancouver  visited  the  river,  and 
his  lieutenant,  Broughton,  explored  it  by  the  aid  of 
Capt.  Gray's  chart ;  ascending  it  upward  of  one  hundred 
miles,  probably  to  where  Vancouver,  the  principal  depot 
of  the  Hon.  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  is  now  located. 

In  the  years  1763  and  '64,  Capt.  Jonathan  Carver, 
who  had  been  in  the  British  provincial  army,  and  an 
English  gentleman  of  fortune,  and  a  member  of  parlia- 
ment, projected  the  enterprise  of  crossing  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  exploring  the  Oregon,  or  River  of  the 
West,  as  the  Columbia  River  was  then  called,  to  its  exit 
into  the  Pacific.  They  were  to  take  with  them  fifty 
or  sixty  men,  artificers  and  mariners,  in  order  to  build 
forts  on  the  Pacific  coast  for  their  protection,  and  ves- 
sels for  the  purpose  of  prosecuting  more  extensive  dis- 
coveries by  sea ;  but  the  breaking  out  of  the  American 
revolution  effectually  defeated  the  undertaking. 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


15 


t  of  the 
except 
ti  these 
aidually 
se  took 
it  white 
irtained 
in  the 
,  then  a 
at  puU- 
hey  de- 
superior 
.     And 
ogether 
to  their 
and  in- 
rogship. 
y  which 
above 
e  cele- 
of  his 
he  had 
^er,  and 
aid  of 
lundred 
al  depot 
)catea. 
Carver, 
and  an 
parlia- 
Rocky 
of  the 
its  exit 
3  m  fifty 
to  build 
nd  ves- 
ive  dis- 
merican 


In  1793  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  crossed  the  con- 
tinent to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  which  he  reached  in  lat. 
52°  2(y  48".  His  success  once  more  suggested  the 
possibility  of  linking  together  the  trade  of  both  sides 
of  the  continent.  And  as  there  might  be  a  clashing  of 
claims  between  the  Hudson's  Bay  and  North-west 
Companies,  the  one  holding  by  right  of  charter,  and  the 
other  by  right  of  possession,  it  was  proposed  that  the 
two  companies  should  coalesce  in  this  great  under- 
taking. This  scheme,  however,  proved  abortive,  in 
consequence  of  the  long-cherished  enmity  or  jealousy 
existing  between  the  two  companies,  which  would  not 
allow  them  to  listen  to  such  counsel.  , 

In  the  mean  time  the  attention  of  the  American  go- 
vernment was  attracted  to  the  subject,  and  the  memo- 
rable expedition  under  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  fitted 
out.  These  gentlemen,  in  1804,  accomplished  the 
enterprise  which  had  been  projected  by  Carver  and 
Whitworth,  in  1774.     They  ascended  the  Missouri ; 

Sassed  through  the  stupendous  gates  of  the  Rocky 
[ountains,  hitherto  unknown  to  the  white  man ;  dis- 
covered and  explored  the  upper  waters  of  the  Columbia, 
and  followed  that  river  down  to  its  mouth,  where  their 
countryman.  Gray,  had  anchored  about  twelve  years 
previously.  Here  they  passed  the  winter,  and  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  spot  where  their  hut  stood, 
on  a  small  river  which  enters  Young's  Bay,  a  short  dis- 
tance below  Astoria,  on  the  south  side  of  the  Colum- 
bia, called  Lewis  and  Clark's  River ;  and  the  Indians 
have  often  pointed  out  to  me  the  trail  by  which  a  gang 
of  their  men  went  daily  from  their  hut  to  the  coast,  pro- 
bably to  look  out  for  vessels.  Their  hut  had  entirely 
disappeared  at  the  time  of  my  visiting  the  spot  in 
1842. 

Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  returned  across  the  moun- 
tains in  the  following  spring.  The  reports  published 
by  them  of  their  expedition,  demonstrated  the  practica- 
bility of  establishing  a  line  of  communication  across 
the  continent,  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 


■■■■■Mi 


i& 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


It  was  then  that  the  idea  presented  itself  to  the  mind 
of  Mr.  John  Jacob  Astor,  of  grasping  with  his  indivi- 
dual hand  this  great  enterprise,  which  for  years  had 
been  dubiously  yet  desirously  contemplated  by  power- 
ful associations  and  fostering  governments.  The  main 
feature  of  Mr.  Astor's  scheme  was  to  establish  a  line 
of  trading  posts  along  the  Missouri  and  the  Columbia, 
to  the  mouth  of  the  latter,  where  was  to  be  founded  the 
chief  trading  house  or  depot.  Inferior  posts  would  be 
established  in  the  interior,  and  on  all  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade  with  the  Indians ; 
these  posts  would  draw  their  supplies  from  the  main 
establishment,  and  bring  to  it  the  peltries  they  collect- 
ed. Coasting  crafts  would  be  built  and  fitted  out,  also, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  to  trade,  at  favourable 
seasons,  all  along  the  north-west  coast,  and  return,  with 
the  proceeds  of  their  voyages,  to  this  place  of  deposite. 

Thus  all  the  Indian  trade,  both  of  the  interior  and 
the  coast,  would  converge  to  this  point,  and  thence  de- 
rive its  sustenance. 

A  ship  was  to  be  sent  annually  from  New- York  to 
this  main  establishment  with  reinforcements  and  sup- 
plies, and  with  merchandise  suited  to  the  trade.  It 
would  take  on  board  the  furs  collected  during  the  pre- 
ceding year,  carry  them  to  Canton,  invest  the  proceeds 
in  the  rich  merchandise  of  China,  and  return  thus 
freighted  to  New-York. 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  mighty  enterpise  pro- 
jected by  Mr.  Astor,  but  which  continually  expanded 
in  his  mind ;  and  after  obtaining  the  countenance  of 
government,  he  prepared  to  carry  his  scheme  into 
prompt  execution,  by  procuring  proper  agents  and 
coadjutors,  habituated  to  the  Indian  trade  and  to  the  life 
of  the  wilderness.  Among  the  clerks  of  the  North-west 
Company  were  several  of  great  capacity  and  experi- 
ence, who  had  served  out  their  probationary  terms,  but 
who,  either  through  lack  of  interest  and  influence,  or 
a  want  of  vacancies,  had  not  been  promoted.  They 
were  consequently  much  dissatisfied,  and  ready  for  any 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


17 


power- 
he  main 
h  aline 
jlumbia, 
ided  the 
v^ould  be 
tributary 
Indians ; 
he  main 
f  collect- 
out,  also, 
Lvourable 
urn,  with 
deposite. 
erior  and 
lence  de- 
York  to 
and  sup- 
rade.    It 
the  pre- 
proceeds 
turn  thus 

•pise  pro- 
expanded 
nance  of 
erne  into 
ents  and 
to  the  life 
orth-west 
d  experi- 
erms,  but 
uence,  or 
d.  They 
ly  for  any 


employment  in  which  their  talents  and  acquirements 
might  be  turned  to  better  account. 

Mr.  Astor  made  his  overtures  to  several  of  these 
persons,  and  three  of  them  entered  into  his  views. 
One  of  these,  Mr.  Alexander  M'Kay,  had  accompanied 
Mr.  Mackenzie  in  both  of  his  expeditions  to  the  north- 
west coast  of  America,  in  1789  and  1793.  The  other 
two  were  Duncan  M'Dougal  and  Donald  M'Kenzie. 
To  these  was  subsequently  added  Mr.  Willson  Price 
Hunt,  of  New-Jersey.  As  this  gentleman  was  a  native- 
born  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  a  person  of  great 
probity  and  worth,  he  was  selected  by  Mr.  Astor  to 
be  his  chief  agent,  and  to  represent  him  in  the  contem- 
plated establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

On  the  23d  of  June,  1810,  articles  of  agreement 
were  entered  into  between  Mr.  Astor  and  these  four 
gentlemen,  acting  for  themselves  and  for  the  several 
persons  who  had  already  agreed  to  become,  or  should 
thereafter  become,  associated  under  the  firm  of  "  The 
Pacific  Fur  Company." 

According  to  tnese  articles,  Mr.  Astor  was  to  be  at 
the  head  of  the  company,  and  to  manage  its  affairs  in 
New- York.  He  was  to  furnish  vessels,  goods,  provi- 
sions, arms,  ammunition,  and  all  other  requisites  for 
the  enterprise  at  first  cost  and  charges,  provided  they 
did  not,  at  any  time,  involve  an  advance  of  more  than 
four  hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  stock  of  the  company  was  to  be  divided  into  a 
hundred  equal  shares,  with  the  profits  accruing  there- 
on. Fifty  shares  were  to  be  at  the  disposition  of  Mr. 
Astor,  and  tlie  other  fifty  to  be  divided  among  the 
partners  and  their  associates. 

Mr.  Astor  was  to  have  the  privilege  of  introducing 
other  persons  into  the  connection,  as  partners,  two  of 
whom,  at  least,  should  be  conversant  with  the  Indian 
trade,  and  none  of  them  to  be  entitled  to  more  than 
three  shares. 

A  general  meeting  of  the  company  was  to  be  held 
annually  at  the  Columbia  River,  for  the  investigation  and 


18 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


fj" 


regulation  of  its  affairs ;  at  which  absent  members  might 
be  represented,  and  might  vote  by  proxy  under  certain 
specified  conditions. 

The  association,  if  successful,  was  to  continue  for 
twenty  years  ;  but  the  parties  had  full  power  to  aban- 
don ana  dissolve  it  within  the  first  five  years,  should  it 
be  found  unprofitable.  For  this  term  Mr.  Astor  cove- 
nanted to  bear  all  the  loss  that  might  be  incurred ;  after 
which  it  was  to  be  borne  by  all  the  partners,  in  propor- 
tion to  their  respective  shares. 

The  parties  of  the  second  part  were  to  execute  faith- 
fully such  duties  as  might  be  assigned  to  them  by  a 
majority  of  the  company  on  the  north-west  coast,  and 
to  repair  to  such  place  or  places  as  the  majority  might 
direct. 

An  agent,  appointed  for  five  years,  was  to  reside  at 
the  principal  establishment  on  the  north-west  coast,  and 
Mr.  Hunt  was  the  one  chosen  for  the  first  term.  Should 
the  interest  of  the  concern  at  any  time  require  his  ab- 
sence, a  person  was  to  be  appointed  in  general  meeting 
to  take  his  place. 

Such  were  the  leading  conditions  of  this  association. 
We  shall  now  proceed  to  notice,  as  briefly  as  possible, 
some  of  the  daring  and  eventful  expeditions,  by  sea  and 
land,  to  which  it  gave  rise. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Part  of  the  company  embark  on  board  ship  Tonquin  for  the  purpose  of 
establishing  a  trading  post — Select  a  place,  and  call  it  Astoria — The  Tonquin 
arrives  at  Vancouver's  Island — Massacre  of  her  crew  by  the  Indians — 
Blown  up  by  one  of  the  sur\'ivors  of  the  massacre— Others  of  them  put  to 
death  by  the  Indians — Stratagem  of  Mr.  M'Dougal  to  ensure  himsett  and 
friends  against  their  violence — Mansion  completed — Schooner  finished  and 
launched — New-Year  celebration. 

In  prosecuting  his  great  scheme  of  commerce  and 
colonization,  two  expeditions  were  devised  by  Mr.  As- 
tor, one  by  sea,  the  other  by  land.    The  former  was 


tEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


19 


tor  cove- 
ed ;  after 
n  propor- 

ute  faith- 
era  by  a 
oast,  and 
ity  might 

reside  at 
coast,  and 
.  Should 
re  his  ab- 
1  meeting 

isociation. 

possible, 

)y  sea  and 


te  pujnpose  of 
The  Tonquin 
he  Indians — 
f  them  put  to 
himself  and 
finished  and 


aerce  and 
^  Mr.  As- 
)rmer  was 


to  carry  out  the  people,  stores,  ammunition,  and  mer- 
chandise, requisite  for  establishing  a  fortified  trading 
post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  latter, 
conducted  by  Mr.  Hunt,  wa»  to  proceed  up  the  Mis- 
souri, and  across  the  Pocky  Mountains,  to  the  same 
point ;  exploring  a  line  uf  communication  across  the 
continent,  and  noting  the  places  where  interior  trading 
posts  might  be  established. 

A  fine  ship  was  provided,  called  the  Tonquin,  of  two 
hundred  and  ninety  tons'  burden,  mounting  ten  guns, 
with  a  crew  of  twenty  men.  An  assortment  of  mer- 
chandise, and  all  necessary  supplies,  were  shipped  in 
due  season,  and  the  command  of  the  ship  was  intrust- 
ed to  Jonathan  Thorn,  of  New- York,  a  lieutenant  in 
the  United  States  Navy  on  leave  of  absence.  Four  of 
the  partners  were  to  embark  in  the  ship,  namely,  Messrs. 
M'ltay,  M'Dougal,  David  Stuart,  and  his  nephew, 
Robert  Stuart.  Mr.  M'Dougal  was  impowered  by 
Mr.  Astor  to  act  as  his  proxy  in  the  absence  of  Mr. 
Hunt,  to  vote  for  him,  and  in  his  name,  on  any  question 
that  might  come  before  any  meeting  oif  the  persons  in- 
terested in  the  voyage. 

Besides  the  partners,  there  were  twelve  clerks  to  go 
out  in  the  ship,  several  of  them  natives  of  Canada,  who 
had  some  experience  in  Indian  trade,  whose  interests 
were  to  some  extent  identified  with  the  company. 
Several  artisans  were  likewise  to  sail  in  the  ship,  and 
also  a  number  of  Canadian  "  voyageurs."  Thus  arm- 
ed and  equipped,  the  Ton<fiin  put  to  sea  on  the  8th 
of  September,  1810:  and  as  I  do  not  design  to  give 
a  history  of  the  voyage,  I  will  just  remark  that  the 
Tonquin  made  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River  on 
the  22d  of  March,  having,  according  to  the  best  his- 
tory that  we  have  of  the  voyage,  borne  up  a  very 
unpleasant  and  ungovernable  set  of  passengers,  and  a 
very  straight-forward,  stiff,  and  crusty  captain,  for  the 
space  of  about  six  months.  After  losing  two  boats 
and  eight  men,  the  Tonquin  crossed  the  bar  and  an- 
chored in  Baker's  Bay.     On  the  6th  of  April,  Mr. 


20 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


!    ;■ 


1%    ^ 


M'Dougal  and  Mr.  David  Stuart  set  off  for  the  south- 
ern shore,  intending  to  be  back  by  the  7th.  After  reach- 
ing that  shore,  they  soon  pitched  upon  a  spot  which 
appeared  to  them  favourable  for  the  intended  estabUsh- 
ment.  It  was  on  a  point  of  land  called  Point  George, 
having  a  very  good  harbour,  where  vessels  of  six  hun- 
dred tons'  burden  might  ride  in  safety. 

After  a  day  thus  profitably  spent,  they  recrossed  the 
river,  and  after  being  detained  foi  several  days  at  the 
Chenook  village,  in  consequence  of  bad  weather,  they 
reached  the  Tonquin  in  safety. 

The  old  Chenook  chief,  or  King  Comcomly^  as  he 
was  called,  and  his  men,  accompanied  the  two  explo- 
rers to  the  Tonquin,  where  he  and  his  people  were  en- 
tertained, and  liberally  rewarded  for  services  rendered ; 
after  which  they  returned  home  highly  satisfied,  pro- 
mising to  remain  faithful  friends  and  allies  of  the  white 
men.  From  the  reports  of  the  two  exploring  partners, 
it  was  determined  that  Point  George  should  be  the  site 
of  the  general  depot.  Accordingly,  on  the  12th  of 
April,  the  launch  was  freighted  witn  all  things  neces- 
sary for  the  purpose,  and  sixteen  persons  departed  in 
her  to  commence  the  establishment,  leaving  the  Ton- 
quin to  follow  as  soon  as  the  harbour  could  be  sounded. 

Crossing  the  wide  mouth  of  the  river,  they  soon 
reached  the  place  of  destination,  and  all  hands  set  to 
work  cutting  down  trees,  clearing  away  thickets,  and 
marking  out  the  place  for  the  permanent  store-house 
and  powder  magazine,  wiiich  were  to  be  built  of  logs, 
and  covered  with  cedar  bark.  The  next  thought  was 
to  give  a  name  to  the  embryo  metropolis.  The  one  that 
naturally  suggested  itself  was  that  of  the  projector  and 
supporter  of  the  whole  enterprise.  It  was  accordingly 
named  Astoria. 

The  Tonquin,  in  the  mean  time,  made  her  way 
through  the  intricate  channel,  and  came  to  anchor  in 
the  little  bay,  and  was  saluted  from  the  encampment 
with  three  volleys  of  musketry  and  three  cheers.  She 
returned  the  salute  with  three  cheers  and  three  guns. 


m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


HI 


e  south- 
3r  reach- 
)t  which 
(StabUsh- 
George, 
six  hun- 


ossed  the 
s  at  the 
they 


ys  i 
her, 


nly,  as  he 
svo  explo- 
j  were  en- 
rendered  ; 
sfied,  pro- 
the  white 
T  partners, 
be  the  site 
le  12th  of 
pgs  neces- 
eparted  in 
the  Ton- 
e  sounded, 
they  soon 
|nds  set  to 
Lckets,  and 
Aore-house 
[ilt  of  logs, 
lought  was 
le  one  that 
jjector  and 
[ccordingly 

her  way 

anchor  in 

[campment 

;ers.     She 

fee  guns. 


I 


After  many  unpleasant  circumstances  had  transpired 
between  Mr.  M'Dougal  and  Captain  Thorn,  the  neces- 
sary arrangements  were  made,  and  the  Tonquin  set  out 
on  her  northward-bound  coasting  voyage  on  the  1st  of 
June,  from  which  voyage  she  was  never  to  return. 

Before  the  Tonquin  left  the  Columbia,  the  captain' 
irocured  an  Indian  interpreter  by  the  name  of  Lamazee, 
who  was  still  living  in  1843,)  and  in  a  few  days  after 
she  set  sail,  she  arrived  at  Vancouver's  Island,  and  an- 
chored in  the  harbour  of  Neweetee,  very  much  against 
the  advice  of  Lamazee,  who  warned  the  captain  against 
the  perfidious  character  of  the  natives  of  this  part  of 
the  coast. 

Numbers  of  canoes  came  off  for  the  purpose  of  trade ; 
but  in  consequence  of  the  uncivil  treatment  which  they 
received  from  Captain  Thorn,  the  natives  took  offence, 
and  determined  on  revenge. 

Mr.  M'Kay  had  been  on  shore,  and  returning  soon 
after  the  Indians  had  left  the  ship,  the  interpreter  who 
was  with  him,  having  been  apprized  of  the  threatening 
danger,  begged  him  to  prevail  on  the  captain  to  make 
sail  as  soon  as  possible.  Mr.  M'Kay  did  as  Lamazee 
had  requested ;  but  the  captain,  in  a  surly  mood,  point- 
ed to  his  cannon  and  fire-arms  as  a  sufficient  safeguard 
against  naked  savages.  On  the  following  morning, 
at  the  dawn  of  day,  while  the  captain  and  M'Kay  were 
yet  asleep,  a  canoe  came  alongside  containing  twenty 
Indians,  headed  by  one  of  the  chiefs.  They  appeared 
unarmed,  and  with  aspects  friendly,  holding  up  otter 
skins,  indicating  a  desire  to  trade.  Although  Mr.  Astor 
had  cautioned  the  captain  in  respect  to  the  admission 
of  Indians  on  board  of  the  vessel,  yet  his  advice  had 
been  for  some  time  neglected  ;  and.  the  officer  of  the 
watch,  at  this  time,  perceiving  those  in  the  canoe  to  be, 
as  he  supposed,  without  weapons,  and  having  received 
no  orders  to  the  contrary,  readily  permitted  them  to 
come  on  deck.  Another  crew  soon  followed  the  first, 
which  was  also  admitted.  In  a  short  time  Indians 
were  clambering  into  the  vessel  on  all  sides. 


22 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


The  officer  now  became  alarmed,  and  called  for 
Captain  Thorn  and  Mr.  M'Kay.  By  the  time  they 
came  on  deck,  it  was  thronged  with  natives.  The 
captain  was  again  advised  to  make  sail ;  but  he  again 
^ade  light  of  it.  It  was  but  a  short  time  after  this 
when  the  self-conceited  captain  became  alarmed ;  but 
it  was  too  late :  for,  while  some  of  the  crew  were,  in 
obeying  his  orders,  weighing  the  anchor,  and  others 
aloft  loosening  sail,  a  scene  of  blood  and  carnage  en- 
sued, sufficiently  horrid  to  appal  the  stoutest  heart.  At 
the  appointed  time  a  signal  yell  was  given,  which  was 
followed  by  the  brandishing  of  knives  and  war-clubs, 
which  the  treacherous  natives  had  had  concealed  be- 
neath their  skin  frocks,  and  with  these  weapons  they 
rushed  upon  their  victims.  I  need  not  attempt  to 
describe  what  followed.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  all 
of  the  officers  and  crew  save  four  men  were  massacred 
on  the  spot.  These  four  men  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  cabin ;  and  after  fastening  the  door,  and  breaking 
holes  through  the  companion-way,  and,  with  the  mus- 
kets, opening  a  brisk  fire  upon  the  Indians,  they  soon 
cleared  the  deck.  In  the  cabin  they  found  Mr.  Lewis 
still  alive,  but  mortally  wounded.  Thus  far  the  Indian 
interpreter  described  the  scene.  He  had  taken  no  part 
in  the  conflict,  and  havii  g  been  spared  by  the  natives 
as  being  of  their  race,  when  they  left  the  ship  he  took 
his  departure  with  them. 

The  survivors  of  the  crew  now  sallied  forth,  and  dis- 
charged some  of  the  deck  guns,  which  did  great  execu- 
tion among  the  canoes,  and  drove  all  the  savages  ashore. 

When  the  next  day  dawned,  the  Tonquin  still  lay  at 
anchor  in  the  bay,  her  sails  all  loose  and  flapping  in 
the  wind,  and  no  one  apparently  on  board  of  her.  After 
I  time,  some  of  the  canoes  ventured  forth  to  reconnoi- 
tre, taking  with  them  the  interpreter.  While  thus  em- 
ployed, one  man  appeared  on  deck,  whom  Lamazee 
recognized  as  Mr.  Lewis.  He  made  friendly  signs, 
and  invited  them  on  board,  and,  after  some  delay,  they 
complied.     Finding  no  resistance,  nor  even  a  soul  on 


# 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


23 


ailed  for 
me  they 
3.     The 
he  again 
after  this 
med ;  but 
were,  in 
nd  others 
rnage  en- 
leart.    At 
vhich  was 
war-clubs, 
sealed  be- 
ipons  they 
ittempt  to 
^,  that  all 
massacred 
a  reaching 
d  breaking 
I  the  mus- 
they  soon 
Mr.  Lewis 
the  Indian 
ten  no  part 
the  natives 
lip  he  took 

th,  and  dis- 
reat  execu- 
res  ashore, 
'still  lay  at 
lapping  in 
Iher.    After 
reconnoi- 
le  thus  em- 
Lamazee 
idly  signs, 
lelay,  they 
a  soul  on 


deck,  for  Mr.  Lewis  had  disappeared,  others  soon  press- 
ed forward  to  take  the  prize,  so  that  the  decks  were 
soon  crowded  ;  but  in  tlie  midst  of  their  exultation  the 
ship  blew  up  with  a  tremendous  explosion.  Arms, 
legs,  and  mutilated  bodies,  were  blown  into  the  air, 
and  dreadful  havoc  was  made  in  the  surrounding  ca- 
noes. The  interpreter  was  in  the  main  chains  at  the 
time  of  the  explosion,  from  which  he  was  thrown  into 
the  water,  and  succeeded  in  getting  into  one  of  the 
canoes.  According  to  his  statement,  the  bay  present- 
ed an  awful  spectacle  after  the  catastrophe. 

The  inhabitants  of  Neweetee  were  overwhelmed 
with  consternation  at  this  astounding  calamity,  which 
had  burst  upon  them  in  the  very  moment  of  triumph. 
The  warriors  sat  mute  and  mournful,  while  the  women 
and  children  rent  the  air  with  the  death-wail. 

Their  sadness  and  wailings,  however,  were  suddenly 
changed  into  yells  of  fuiy  at  the  sight  of  four  unfortu- 
nate white  men,  brought  captive  into  the  village.  La* 
mazee  was  permitted  to  converse  with  them,  and  they 
proved  to  be  the  four  brave  fellows  who  had  made  such 
desperate  defence  of  the  cabin.  They  told  him  that 
after  they  had  cleared  the  ship,  and  finding  it  impossible 
to  get  her  under  way,  they  determined  to  leave  her  and 
endeavour  to  effect  their  escape  in  the  ship's  boat ;  and 
as  Lewis  refused  to  accompany  them,  they  left  him  to 
his  fate  ;  who,  after  being  alone,  determined  to  revenge 
the  blood  of  his  shipmates  by  the  awful  method  of  de- 
coying as  many  of  the  natives  on  board  as  possible,  and 
then  setting  fire  to  the  powder  magazine,  and  terminating 
his  life  by  a  signal  act  of  vengeance.  How  well  he 
succeeded  has  been  shown.  His  companions  bade  him 
a  last  and  melancholy  adieu,  and  laboured  with  might  and 
main  to  get  out  of  the  bay,  but  found  it  impossible ;  for, 
being  overpowered  by  tne  wind  and  tide,  they  were 
driven  upon  a  point  of  land,  where,  after  they  had  fallen 
asleep  through  fatigue,  they  were  surprised  by  the  In- 
dians, and  suffered  a  more  painful  and  protracted  death 
than  their  desperate  companion  who  remained  on  board 


mm»^^ 


n 


■'fi'i  jif  I 


I-  a 


u 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


of  the  ship,  being  sacrificed  by  the  savages  to  the  manes 
of  their  friends  with  all  the  lingering  tortures  of  savage 
cruelty.  Some  time  after  their  death,  the  interpreter, 
who  had  remained  a  kind  of  prisoner  at  large,  effected 
his  escape,  and  brought  the  tragical  tidings  to  Astoria. 

Such  was  the  fate  of  the  Tonquin,  her  brave  but 
headstrong  captain,  and  her  adventurous  crew.  How 
true  it  is  that  "  in  the  multitude  of  counsellors  there  is 
safety."  Had  Captain  Thorn's  deportment  been  pro- 
perly regulated,  the  insult  which  wounded  the  pride  of 
the  savage  chieftain  would  never  have  been  given ;  and 
had  he  attended  to  the  directions  of  his  employer  in 
admitting  but  few  of  the  natives  at  a  time,  they  would 
not  have  been  able  to  accomplish  their  treacherous  de- 
signs. Yet  it  should  be  remembered,  that  throughout 
the  whole  voyage  Captain  Thorn  showed  himself  to 
be  loyal,  single-minded,  straight-forward,  and  fearless ; 
and  that  he  paid  for  his  error  with  his  life. 

The  tidings  of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin,  and  the  mas- 
sacre of  her  crew,  struck  dismay  into  the  hearts  of  the 
Astorians.  They  found  themselves  a  mere  handful  of 
men,  on  a  savage  coast,  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes, 
who  would  doubtless  be  incited  to  deeds  of  violence 
by  the  late  fearful  catastrophe.  In  this  juncture,  Mr. 
M'Dougal,  we  are  told,  had  recourse  to  a  stratagem  by 
which  to  avail  himself  of  the  ignorance  and  credulity 
of  the  savages ;  and,  although  such  a  course  could 
scarcely  be  approved  under  any  circumstances,  it  cer- 
tainly does  credit  to  his  ingenuity. 

The  natives  of  the  coast,  and,  indeed,  of  all  the  re- 
gions west  of  the  mountains,  had  an  extreme  dread  of 
the  small-pox ;  that  terrific  scourge  having,  a  few  years 
previously,  appeared  among  them,  and  almost  swept 
off  entire  tribes.  Its  origin  and  nature  were  wrapped 
in  mystery,  and  they  conceived  it  an  evil  inflicted  upon 
them  by  some  superior  being,  or  brought  among  them 
by  the  white  men.  The  last  idea  was  seized  upon  by 
Mr.  M'Dougal.  He  assembled  several  of  the  chief- 
tains whom  he  believed  to  be  in  the  conspiracy.   When 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


25 


le  manes 
)f  savage 
terpreter, 
,  effected 
)  Astoria. 
»rave  but 
8V.    How 
s  there  is 
been  pro- 
e  pride  of 
iven ;  and 
iployer  in 
tiey  would 
tierous  de- 
throughout 
himself  to 
d  fearless ; 

id  the  mas- 
jarts  of  the 
handful  of 
itile  tribes, 
lof  violence 
icture,  Mr. 
■atagem  by 
d  credulity 
lurse  could 
ices,  it  cer- 

all  the  re- 
_ie  dread  of 
la  few  years 
(most  swept 
Ire  wrapped 
Iflicted  upon 
Imong  them 
led  upon  by 
If  the  chiel- 

acy.  When 


they  were  all  seated  around,  he  informed  them  that  he 
had  heard  of  the  treachery  of  some  of  their  northern 
brethren  toward  the  Tonquin,  and  was  determined  on 
vengeance. 

"  The  white  men  among  you,"  said  he,  "  are  few  in 
number,  it  is  true,  but  they  are  mighty  in  medicine. 
See  here,"  continued  he,  drawing  forth  a  small  bottle, 
and  holding  it  before  their  eyes,  "  in  this  bottle  I  hold 
the  small-pox,  safely  corked  up  ;  I  have  but  to  draw  the 
cork,  and  let  loose  the  pestilence,  to  sweep  man,  wo- 
man, and  child  from  the  face  of  the  earth !" 

The  chiefs  were  struck  with  horror  and  alarm.  They 
implored  him  not  to  uncork  the  bottle,  since  they  and 
all  their  people  were  firm  friends  of  the  white  men, 
and  would  always  remain  so ;  but,  should  the  small- 
pox be  once  let  out,  it  would  run  like  wild-fire  through- 
out the  country,  sweeping  off  the  good  as  well  as  the 
bad ;  and  surely  he  would  not  be  so  unjust  as  to  pun- 
ish his  friends  for  crimes  committed  by  his  enemies. 

Mr.  M'Dougal  pretended  to  be  convinced  by  their 
reasoning,  and  promised  that  the  vial  of  vvrrath  should 
remain  sealed  up  so  long  as  they  should  manifest  their 
friendship  by  a  proper  course  of  conduct.  From  this 
lime,  it  is  added,  he  was  looked  upon  as  holding  their 
destiny  in  his  hands,  and  was  called,  by  way  of  pre- 
eminence, "  the  great  small-pox  chief." 

All  this  time,  the  labours  at  the  infant  settlement  went 
on  with  unremitting  assiduity,  and,  by  the  26th  of  Sep- 
tember, a  commodious  mansion,  spacious  enough  to  ac- 
commodate all  hands,  was  completed.  It  was  built  of 
stone  and  clay,  as  they  had  not  discovered  any  calcareous 
stone  in  the  neighbourhood  from  which  lime  for  mortar 
could  be  procured.  The  schooner  was  also  finished, 
and  launched  with  the  accustomed  ceremony,  on  the 
2d  of  October,  and  took  her  station  below  the  fort. 
She  was  named  the  Dolly,  and  was  the  first  American 
vessel  launched  on  that  coast. 

On  the  5th  of  October,  a  detachment  from  Mr.  Da- 
vid Stuart's  post  on  the  Oakinagan  arrived,  bringing 

2 


/ 


/ 


P'  n 


M 


26 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


favourable  accounts  of  the  new  establishment  or  inte- 
rior trading  post  which  had  been  formed  at  that  place ; 
but  reported  that,  as  Mr.  Stuart  feared  that  there  might 
be  a  difficulty  of  subsisting  the  whole  party  throughout 
the  winter,  he  had  sent  one  half  back  to  Astoria.  Such 
is  the  hardihood  of  the  Indian  trader,  determining  to 
remain  in  the  heart  of  a  savage  and  unknown  country, 
seven  hundred  miles  from  his  associates,  to  spend  a 
whole  winter. 

Nothing  further  of  importance  transpired  up  to  tlie 
1st  of  January,  1812.  The  partners  made  prepara- 
tions for  a  New-year  celebration,  which  was  conduct- 
ed as  follows  :  At  sunrise  the  drums  beat  to  arms, 
the  colours  were  hoisted,  with  three  rounds  of  small 
arms  and  three  discharges  of  cannon.  The  day  was 
devoted  to  games  of  agility  and  strength,  and  other 
amusements ;  and  grog  was  temperately  distributed, 
together  with  bread,  butter,  and  cheese.  The  best 
dinner  their  circumstances  could  afford  was  served  up 
at  noon.  At  sunset  the  colours  were  lowered,  with 
another  discharge  of  artillery.  The  night  was  spent  in 
dancing,  &c. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  of  the  land  expedition—  St.  Louis — Missouri  River— Missouri 
Fur  Company — Daniel  Boone,  of  Kentucky — Mad  River — Travellers  ar- 
rive at  Mr.  Henry's  post,  and  take  possession  of  huts  deserted  by  him — A 
party  of  hunters  leave  for  the  purpose  of  trapping  beaver — Man  lost — Ar- 
rive at  a  terrific  strait,  and  encamp — Separate  into  several  detachments — 
Meet  writh  Indians,  and  obtain  some  salmon  and  a  dog  for  food — Mr.  Hunt 
purchases  a  horse  for  an  old  tin  kettle — The  party  abandon  the  river,  and 
suffer  from  thirst — Meet  with  another  party  who  are  in  a  state  of  starva- 
tion— Kill  two  horses  to  satisfy  the  cravings  of  hunger — Celebrate  New- 
year  on  dogs  and  horse  flesh — Arrive  at  Astoria,  and  meet  with  some  of 
their  old  comrades. 

Having  followed  up  the  fortunes  of  the  maritime 
part  of  this  enterprise  to  the  shores  cf  the  Pacific,  and 
the  affairs  of  the  embryo  establishment  t'  liie  opening 
of  the  new  year,  let  us  now  turn  back  to  the  adventu- 


re 
an 
C( 
ov 

,^      me 

wh 

me 

con 

and 

and 

and 

skill 

now 

edal 

cienj 

site  f 

proci 

dian  • 

ing  IeJ 

dian 
I    cano€ 
for  m 
The 
^    seven 
I    with 
vvith 
made 
dred 
porta^ 
men 'si 
Bei 
as  Usui 
of  MoJ 
the  int 
crew, 
Hunt 
of  the  I 
and  mI 


N  i 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


27 


or  inte- 
place ; 

e  might 
oughout 
I.  Such 
lining  to 
country, 
spend  a 

ip  to  the 
prepara- 
conduct- 
to  arms, 
I  of  small 
5  day  was 
and  other 
istributed, 
The  best 
served  up 
ered,  with 
as  spent  in 


iivcr— Missouri 
-Travellers  ar- 
rted  by  him— A 
-Man  lost— Ar- 
,  detachments— 
food-Mr.  Hunt 
n  the  river,  ana 
state  of  starva- 
JCelebrate  New- 
let  with  some  o. 


le  maritime 
[pacific,  and 

the  opening 
Ithe  adventu- 


rous band  to  whom  was  intrusted  the  land  expedition, 
and  who  were  to  make  their  way  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia,  up  vast  rivers,  across  trackless  plains,  and 
over  the  rugged  barriers  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  conduct  of  this  expedition,  as  has  been  already 
mentioned,  was  assigned  to  Mr.  Wilson  Price  Hunt, 
who  was  ultimately  to  be  at  the  head  of  the  establish- 
ment at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  River.  The  whole 
conduct  of  that  gentleman  proved  him  to  be  faithful 
and  upright  in  his  dealings,  amiable  in  his  disposition, 
and  very  accommodating  in  his  manners.  Mr.  Hunt, 
and  his  associate,  Mr.  Donald  M'Kenzie,  who  was  well 
skilled  in  Indian  trade  and  warfare,  and  who  was  re- 
nowned on  the  frontier  as  a  "remarkable  shot,"  repair- 
ed about  the  latter  part  of  July,  1810,  to  Montreal,  the  an- 
cient emporium  of  the  fur  trade,  where  everything  requi- 
site for  the  expedition  could  be  procured.  Here  Mr.  Hunt 
procured,  as  he  supposed,  a  sufficient  number  of  Cana- 
dian voyageurs  to  answer  present  purposes,  and,  hav- 
ing laid  in  a  supply  of  ammunition,  provisions,  and  In- 
dian goods,  embarked  all  on  board  of  one  of  those  great 
canoes  at  that  time  universally  used  by  the  fur  traders 
for  navigating  the  intricate  and  often  obstructed  rivers. 
The  canoe  was  between  thirty  and  forty  feet  long,  and 
several  feet  in  width  ;  constructed  of  birch  bark,  sewed 
with  fibres  of  the  roots  of  the  spruce-tree,  and  daubed 
with  resin  of  the  pine  instead  of  tar.  The  cargo  was 
made  up  in  packages,  weighing  from  ninety  to  one  hun- 
dred pounds  each,  for  the  facility  of  transportation  of 
portages.  The  canoe  also  could  readily  be  carried  on 
men's  shoulders. 

Being  thus  equipped,  the  expedition  took  its  departure 
as  usual  from  St.  Ann's,  near  tne  extremity  of  the  Island 
of  Montreal,  the  great  starting  place  of  the  traders  to 
the  interior.  In  consequence  of  the  inefficiency  of  his 
crew,  and  the  many  obstacles  to  be  overcome,  Mr. 
Hunt  did  not  arrive  at  Mackinaw  (situated  on  the  island 
of  the  same  name,  at  the  confluence  of  Lakes  Huron 
and  Michigan)  until  the  22d  of  July.     Here  the  party 


j 


28 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


!■;?•      ! 


halted  for  some  time.  Here  the  assortment  of  Indian 
goods  was  completed,  and  men  of  a  more  efficient 
character  than  those  enhsted  at  Montreal  were  obtained. 
Here  Mr.  Hunt  was  also  joined  by  Mr.  Ramsay  Crooks, 
a  native  of  Scotland,  who  had  been  engaged  as  a  part- 
ner, who  had  served  in  the  North- West  Company,  and 
been  engaged  in  trading  expeditions  upon  his  individual 
account,  among  the  tribes  of  the  Missouri.  By  this 
gentleman's  advice,  the  party  was  considerably  aug- 
mented ;  and  after  much  delay,  caused  by  the  frolics  and 
whims  of  the  voyageurs,  they  left  Mackinaw  about  the 
12th  of  August,  and  pursued  the  usual  route  by  Green 
Bay,  Fox  and  Wisconsin  Rivers,  to  Prairie  du  Chien, 
and  thence  down  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Louis,  where 
they  landed  on  the  3d  of  September. 

St.  Louis  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missis- 
sippi River,  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri ;  and  was  at  that  time  a  frontier  settlement,  and 
the  last  fitting-out  j^ace  for  the  Indian  trade  of  the  south- 
west. Here  Mr.  Hunt  secured  to  the  interests  of  the 
association  another  of  those  enterprising  men  who  had 
been  engaged  in  individual  traffic  with  the  tribes  of 
the  Missouri.  This  was  a  Mr.  Joseph  Miller,  a  gen- 
tleman of  a  respectable  family  of  Baltimore.  This 
gentleman  joined  the  company  as  a  partner,  and  was 
considered  a  valuable  acquisition  to  the  same. 

After  enlisting  several  additional  men,  and  making 
other  necessary  provisions,  the  party  took  its  departure 
from  St.  Louis  on  the  21st  of  October,  in  three  boats, 
with  buoyant  spirits,  and  soon  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Missouri.  This  vast  river,  three  thousand  miles 
in  length,  was  of  difficult  navigation,  in  consequence  of 
its  strong  current,  and  required  all  the  skill  and  strength 
of  the  several  crews  to  be  brought  into  requisition  in 
order  to  propel  the  boats  forward.  But  by  assiduous 
and  persevering  labour,  they  made  their  way  about 
four  hundred  and  fifty  miles  up  the  Missouri  by  the 
6th  of  November,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Nodowa.  As 
this  was  a  good  hunting  country,  and  as  the  season  was 


depai 

men 

wintc 

the 

enter 

other 


i 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


29 


;  of  Indian 
e  efficient 
e  obtained. 
ay  Crooks, 
as  a  part- 
npany, and 
( individual 
1.    By  this 
srably  aug- 
j  frolics  and 
V  about  the 
e  by  Green 
B  du  Chien, 
mis,  where 

the  Missis- 
of  the  Mis- 
lement,  and 
of  the  south- 
jrests  of  the 
en  who  had 
le  tribes  of 
iller,  agen- 
nore.    This 
ler,  and  was 
me. 

and  making 
its  departure 
three  boats, 
he  mouth  of 
usand  miles 
sequence  of 
and  strength 
equisition  in 
ay  assiduous 
jr  way  about 
isouri  by  the 
fodowa.     As 
Le  season  was 


rapidly  advancing,  they  determined  to  establish  their 
winter  quarters  at  this  place. 

Here  the  party  was  joined  by  Mr.  Robert  M'Lellan, 
another  trader  of  the  Missouri.  This  gentleman  had 
been  a  partisan  under  General  Wayne,  in  his  Indian 
wars,  and  many  marvellous  stories  were  told  of  his  ex- 
ploits. Another  recruit  that  joined  the  camp  at  Nodowa 
deserves  equal  mention.  This  was  John  Day,  a  hunter 
from  the  backwoods  of  Virginia. 

After  the  party  was  fairly  settled  for  the  winter,  Mr. 
Hunt  left  the  encampment  in  charge  of  the  other  part- 
ners, and  set  off  on  foot  on  the  1st  of  January,  1810, 
for  St.  Louis.  At  Nodowa  he  procured  horses,  and 
arrived  at  St.  Louis  on  the  20th  of  January.  Here  he, 
as  he  formerly  had,  met  with  opposition  from  the 
Missouri  Fur  Company,  by  which  his  plans  were  con- 
siderably impeded  ;  and  as  the  Missouri  Company 
was  at  that  time  fitting  out  a  party  to  cross  the  moun- 
tains, under  the  conduct  of  Mr.  Manuel  Lisa,  for  the 
purpose  of  searching  for  some  of  their  men,  who  they 
feared  had  been  cut  off  by  the  savages,  it  became  more 
difficult  for  Mr.  Hunt  to  raise  necessary  recruits,  and 
more  especially  to  procure  a  Sioux  interpreter.  There 
was  but  one  man  to  be  met  with  at  St.  Louis  who  was 
fitted  for  the  purpose ;  he  was  a  half-breed,  named 
Pierre  Dorion,  the  sonof  Dorion,  the  French  interpreter 
who  accompanied  Messrs.  Lewis  and  Clark  in  their 
expedition  across  the  Rocky  Mountains.  By  good 
management,  Mr.  Hunt  succeeded  in  securing  Pierre, 
who  had,  during  the  preceding  year,  conducted  the 
traders  of  the  Missouri  Company  in  safety  through 
the  different  tribes  of  the  Sioux. 

After  Mr.  Hunt  had  got  everything  ready  for  his 
departure,  and  had  prevailed  on  two  out  of  five  of  his 
men  who  had  returned  in  a  slate  of  dissatisfaction  from 
winter  quarters,  to  return  with  him,  and  agreed  to  take 
the  squaw  and  two  children  of  Dorion  on  board,  he 
entered  the  boat  and  set  out,  being  accompanied  by  two 
odier  gentlemen,  whose  names  deserve  to  be  noticed. 


I! '  <i 


lit 


4 


tl 


1 1 


■■>  ■(-■ 


'•    ;ll  P 


80 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


The  one  was  Mr.  John  Bradbury,  under  the  patron- 
age of  the  Linnear.  Society,  of  Liverpool,  to  make  a 
collection  of  American  plants.  The  other  was  Mr. 
Nuttall,  likewise  an  Englishman,  who  has  since  made 
himself  known  by  two  scientific  works. 

The  wife  of  Pierre  Dorion  was  still  living  in  the 
Walamet  Valley,  in  the  year  1843.  She  was  in  the 
habit  of  visiting  the  missionaries  at  the  Walamet ;  and 
it  is  said  she  could  speak  pretty  good  English,  and  was 
quite  polite  in  her  address. 

As  this  reinforcement  passed  up  the  river,  they 
touched  at  Charrette,  where  they  met  with  the  re- 
nowned Daniel  Boon,  of  Kentucky,  leading  a  hunter's 
life,  though  now  in  his  eighty-fifth  year.  He  was  said 
to  flourish  several  years  after  this  meeting ;  and  died, 
full  of  sylvan  honours  and  renown,  in  1818,  in  his 
ninety-second  year. 

The  next  morning  they  met  with  another  hero  of 
the  wilderness,  named  John  Colter,  who  had  accom- 
panied Lewis  and  Clark  across  the  mountains,  and  had 
just  accomplished  a  voyage  alone,  in  a  small  canoe,  of 
three  thousand  miles,  from  the  head  waters  of  the 
Missouri  to  St.  Louis,  in  thirty  days. 

The  party  proceeded  up  the  river,  and  arrived  at 
Fort  Osage  on  the  8th  of  April.  Kere  they  remained 
until  the  10th,  when  they  again  embarked,  and  after 
much  exposure  and  hardship  they  arrived  at  the  station 
near  theNodowa  River,  where  the  main  body  had  been 
quartered  during  the  winter.  As  soon  as  the  spring 
rains  subsided,  Mr.  Hunt  broke  up  the  encampment, 
and  resumed  his  course  up  the  Missouri.  The  party 
now  consisted  of  nearly  sixty  persons.  They  embarked 
in  four  boats,  and  they  succeeded  in  reaching  the  mouth 
of  the  Platte  River  on  the  28th ;  and  on  the  10th  of 
May  they  arrived  at  the  Omaha  village,  about  eight 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri. On  the  15th  of  May  they  took  their  departure 
from  the  village  of  the  Omahas,  and  on  the  11th  of 
June  they  encamped  about  six  miles  below  the  Aric- 


thc 

the 

in 

coil 

res 

a 

the 

paJ 

thil 

of 

imi 

Me 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


31 


le  patron- 

0  make  a 
was  Mr. 

ioce  made 

ing  in  the 
(vas  in  the 
amet;  and 
h,  and  was 

dver,  they 
ih  the  re- 
p  a  hunter's 
le  was  said 
;  and  died, 
318,  in  his 

ler  hero  of 
had  accom- 
ns,  and  had 
ill  canoe,  of 
ikjters:  of  the 

1  arrived  at 
ij  remained 
J,  and  after 
t  the  station 
dy  had  heen 

the  spring 
ncarnpment. 
The  party 
5y  embarked 
ig  the  mouth 
the  10th  of 
about  eight 
of  the  Mis- 
sir  departure 
the  11th  of 
aw  the  Aric- 


kara  village,  and  Mr.  Lisa,  of  whom  we  have  already 
made  mention,  encamped  at  no  great  distance.  At  this 
Indian  village  Mr.  Hunt  left  his  boats,  and  after  the 
necessary  provisions  were  made,  they  took  up  their  line 
of  march  by  land ;  and  on  the  evening  of  the  23d  of 
July  they  encamped  on  the  bank  of  what  was  then 
termed  Big  River.  At  the  above  place  they  continued 
about  two  weeks,  when  they  again  pursued  their  perilous 
journey.  On  the  1 3th  of  August,  Mr.  Hunt  varied  his 
course,  and  inclined  westward,  in  hopes  of  falling  in 
with  three  of  the  party  who  had  been  missing  for  a 
number  of  days,  namely,  Pierre  Dorion,  Carson,  and 
Gradpie.  Soon  after  the  party  reached  the  Little 
Missouri,  the  three  lost  ones  came  lagging  into  the 
camp,  themselves  and  horses  being  worn  down  by  their 
wanderings  in  the  wilderness.  (And  I  will  here  observe 
that  Carson  lived  to  reach  the  Columbia  in  safety,  and 
after  trapping  for  some  time  on  the  west  side  of  the 
mountains,  and  residing  for  about  three  years  in  the 
Walamet  Valley,  he  was  murdered  by  an  Indian  about 
the  year  1837.)  The  party  now  pursued  their  journey 
with  renewed  vigour;  and  after  meeting  with  parties  of 
the  Crow,  Shoshonies,  and  Flathead  Indians,  they 
reached  the  north  branch  of  the  Bighorn  River  on  the 
9th  of  September. 

After  pursuing  their  journey  until  about  the  22d, 
they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Snake  Indians,  from  whom 
they  purchased  a  quantity  of  jerked  buflfalo  meat,  which, 
in  addition  to  what  had  been  killed  by  their  hunters, 
constituted  an  abundant  supply.  All  things  being  in 
readiness,  Mr.  Hunt  broke  up  camp  on  the  24th  ;  and 
a  march  of  fifteen  miles  over  a  mountain  ridge  brought 
them  to  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Columbia.  The 
party  took  up  their  line  of  march  along  the  banks  of 
this  river  (Hoback's  River)  until  it  was  joined  by  a  river 
of  greater  magnitude :  these  two  uniting  formed  an 
impetuous  stream,  which  had  received  the  name  of 
Mad  River. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Mad  River  Mr.  Hunt  held  a 


I 


32 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i  il  ' 


Ji  JS 


*'  1 


consultation  with  the  other  partners  as  to  their  future 
course.  And  after  much  dehberation  it  was  deter* 
mined  to  manufacture  canoes,  and  pursue  the  remain- 
der of  their  journey  by  water.  And  at  this  point  the 
first  interior  trading  post  was  established,  or  rather  a 
party  of  trappers  was  left  here,  with  all  necessary  sup- 
plies for  the  purpose  of  collecting  furs ;  and  when  they 
should  obtain  a  full  cargo,  they  were  to  make  their 
way  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia,  or  to  the  next 
trading  post.  The  party  left  here  consisted  of  Carson, 
of  whom  mention  has  already  been  made,  St.  Michel, 
Detaye,  and  Delaunay.  The  party  now  set  to  work 
at  constructing  canoes,  and,  while  thus  employed,  two 
Snake  Indians  made  their  appearance,  and  gave  ihcni 
to  understand  that  their  labour  would  be  in  vain,  as  the 
Mad  River  down  which  they  proposed  to  pass  was  not 
navigable.  This  information  being  confirmed  by  the 
scouting  party  which  had  been  sent  out  for  the  pur- 
pose of  ascertaining  the  character  of  the  river,  for  some 
distance,  they  employed  the  two  Indians  as  their  guides, 
and  shaped  their  course  by  land  for  Mr.  Henry's 
post,  or  fort,  on  another  branch  of  the  Columbia,  down 
which  they  hoped  to  be  able  to  navigate  canoes  ;  and 
on  the  evening  of  the  8th  of  October  they  reached  that 
post,  which  had  been  deserted  by  Mr.  Henry  in  the 
course  of  the  preceding  spring. 

The  weary  travellers  gladly  took  possession  of  the 
deserted  log  huts  which  had  formed  the  post,  and 
which  stood  on  a  stream  upward  of  a  hundred  yards 
wide,  on  which  they  intended  to  embark.  There  be- 
ing plenty  of  suitable  timber  in  the  neighbourhood,  Mr. 
Hunt  immediately  proceeded  to  construct  canoes.  As 
he  would  have  to  leave  his  horses  and  accoutrements 
here,  he  determined  to  make  this  a  trading  post,  where 
the  trappers  and  hunters,  to  be  distributed  about  the 
country,  might  repair ;  and  where  the  traders  might 
touch  on  their  way  through  the  mountains,  to  and  from 
the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

At  this  place  another  detachment  of  hunters  pre- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


33 


future 
dcter- 
emaiii- 
)int  the 
ather  a 
ry  sup- 
3n  they 
:e  their 
le  next 
Carson, 
Michel, 
to  work 
ed,  two 
re  ihcni 
I,  as  the 
was  not 
i  by  the 
the  pur- 
for  some 
r  guides, 
Henry's 
ia,  down 
es ;  and 
hed  that 
in  the 

m  of  the 
ost,  and 
;d  yards 
lere  be- 
ood,  Mr. 
)es.     As 
rements 
jt,  where 
50ut  the 
irs  might 
nd  from 
la. 
ters  pre- 


pared  to  separate  from  the  party  for  the  purpose  of 
trapping  beaver.  This  party  consisted  of  Robinson, 
Hoback,  and  Rczner.  Afterward  another  hunter  by  the 
name  of  Cass  was  associated  with  them,  and  previous 
to  their  departure  upon  their  expedition,  Mr.  Miller, 
one  of  the  pa  tners,  determined  to  accompany  them ; 
and  being  ampiy  fitted  out,  they  were  to  bring  in  all  the 
peltries  they  should  collect,  either  to  this  trading  post, 
or  to  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

By  the  18lh  of  October  fifteen  canoes  were  com- 
pleted, and  the  following  day  the  party  embarked  with 
their  effects ;  intrusting  their  horses  with  the  two 
8nake  Indians,  their  former  guides. 

After  encountering  many  difficulties,  the  party  fell  in 
with  some  Shoshonies  on  the  24th,  the  first  human 
beings  seen  by  them  since  they  had  left  their  comrades 
at  Fort  Henry.  Shortly  after  leaving  this  camp,  they 
met  with  three  of  the  Snake  Indians ;  but  could  not 
bring  them  to  a  parley.  Soon  after  this  one  of  their 
canoes  was  wrecked,  and  one  man  by  the  name  of 
Clappine  was  lost.  They  now  arrived  at  a  terrific 
strait,  that  forbade  all  further  progress.  This  strait 
received  the  name  of  "  the  Caldron  Linn." 

Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  encamped  on  the  bank 
of  this  whirling  and  tumultuous  stream,  and  the  next 
morning  seven  men  were  despatched  along  the  banks 
of  the  stream,  to  ascertain  its  character  for  some  dis- 
tance below,  and,  after  exploring  the  banks  for  forty 
miles,  they  returned,  and  reported  the  passage  to  be 
exceeding  difficult.  The  party,  however,  who  had  ex- 
plored the  south  side  of  the  river,  found  a  place,  about 
six  miles  from  the  camp,  where  they  thought  it  possi- 
ble the  canoes  might  be  carried  down  the  bank,  and 
launched  upon  the  stream,  and  from  whence  they  might 
make  their  way  with  the  aid  of  occasional  portages. 
Four  of  the  best  canoes  were  accordingly  selected  for 
the  experiment,  and  sixteen  men  bore  them  upon  their 
shoulders  to  the  place.  At  the  same  time  four  men 
were  detached  to  explore  the  river  further  lown.    The 

2* 


<=^--., 


i;i'      ■»! 


t* 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 

party  sent  with  the  canoes  returned  on  the  following 
day,  having  found  it  impracticable  to  pursue  their  on- 
ward journey.  After  a  little  anxious  but  bewildered 
counsel,  says  the  author  before  nae,  they  determined 
that  several  small  detachments  should  set  off  in  differ- 
ent directions ;  and  after  the  necessary  provisions  were 
made,  the  several  bands  departed,  Mr.  M'Lellan  head- 
ing one,  Mr.  Crooks  another,  and  Mr.  M'Kenzie  a 
third.  The  first  was  to  keep  down  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  the  second  was  to  retrace  their  steps  up  it, 
and  the  third  was  to  strike  to  the  northward  across  the 
desert  plains,  in  hopes  of  coming  upon  the  main  stream 
of  the  Columbia.  Mr.  Funt,  with  the  remainder  of 
the  party,  prepared  caches ^  in  which  they  deposited 
their  surplus  baggage  and  merchandise.  After  this 
work  was  accomplished,  which  had  employed  about 
three  days,  Mr.  Crooks  and  his  party  returned,  having 
despaired  of  reaching  Fort  Henry,  and  determined  to 
share  the  fate  of  their  comrades. 

At  length  two  of  the  companions  of  Mr.  Keed  re- 
turned, bringing  also  a  discouraging  report,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  the  hope  of  being  able  to  prosecute 
their  journey  by  water  was  totally  abandoned. 

The  resolution  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  companions  was 
now  taken,  to  set  out  immediately  on  foot.  As  to  the 
other  detachments  that  had  in  a  manner  gone  forth  lo 
seek  their  fortunes,  there  was  little  chance  of  their 
return  ;  they  would  probably  make  their  own  way 
through  the  wilderness.  And  as  they  were  yet  a  thou- 
sand miles  from  Astoria,  the  winter  approaching,  and  all 
kinds  of  perils  awaiting  them,  they  made  all  necessary 
preparations,  and  commenced  their  doubtful  journey, 
keeping  along  the  course  of  the  river,  where  they  would 
always  have  water  at  hand,  and  would  be  able  occasion- 
ally to  procure  fish,  and  might  perchance  meet  with 
Indians  from  whom  they  could  obtain  provisions. 
They  divided  into  two  parties  :  Mr.  Hunt  with  eighteen 
men,  besides  Pierre  Dorion  and  his  family,  proceeded 
down  the  north  side  of  the  river ;  while  Mr.  Crooks 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON, 


35 


iwing 
ir  on- 
dered 
mined 
difFer- 
1  were 

head- 
nzie  a 
ink  of 
\  up  it, 
OSS  the 
stream 
der  of 
posited 
Br   this 
i  about 

having 
lined  to 

eed  re- 
1  conse- 
fosecute 

ons  was 
s  to  the 

forth  lo 
of  their 
wn  way 
t  a  thou- 

,  and  all 
ecessary 

journey, 
ey  would 
occasion- 
leet  with 
rovisions. 

eighteen 
)roceeded 
Crooks 


and  eighteen  men  kept  along  the  south  side.  It  was 
on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  October  that  the  parties 
set  forth  on  their  several  courses. 

On  the  second  day  after  they  left  the  Caldron  Linn, 
Mr.  Hunt  fell  in  with  some  Indians,  who,  by  exhibiting 
a  knife,  gave  evidence  that  some  of  the  advance  party 
had  passed  that  way.  Here  they  obtained  some  salmon 
and  a  dog,  a  very  timely  supply  of  food.  In  their  pro- 
gress they  met  with  more  of  the  natives,  all  of  whom 
behaved  very  friendly.  On  the  15lh  of  November 
they  met  with  more  natives,  who  spoke  of  Mr.  Reed's 
party  having  passed  through  that  place.  On  the  17th, 
Mr.  Hunt  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  horse  for  an  old 
tin  kettle,  which  was  very  acceptable  as  a  pack  horse, 
his  men  being  much  worn  down  with  fatigue ;  and 
on  the  19th  he  succeeded  in  obtaining  another  horse. 
He  now,  by  the  advice  of  the  Indians,  abandoned  the 
river ;  but  soon  had  cause  to  repent  the  change,  as  the 
road  led  across  a  dreary  waste,  without  verdure,  foun- 
tain, pool,  or  stream,  in  consequence  of  which  their 
sufferings  were  extreme,  having  no  water  to  quench 
their  parching  thirst.  The  second  day,  however, 
brought  with  it  a  refreshing  rain,  and  the  writer  knows, 
by  having  experienced  something  of  the  same  nature  in 
the  wilderness  of  Oregon,  as  will  be  hereafter  shown, 
how  our  way-worn  travellers  appreciated  this  blessing. 
On  the  next  day  they  arrived  at  a  beautiful  little  stream 
running  to  the  west.  Here  they  also  fell  in  with 
Indians ;  here  they  encamped  and  obtained  fish  and 
dogs  from  the  natives  ;  and  here  an  Indian  laid  claim  to 
one  of  Mr.  Hunt's  horses,  saying  that  it  had  been  sto- 
len from  him ;  and  as  the  fact  could  not  be  disproved, 
Mr.  Hunt  relinquished  the  horse  to  the  claimant.  The 
next  day  two  of  the  men  were  fortunate  enough  to 
purchase  a  horse  :  one  of  them  was  Pierre  Dorion,  to 
whose  poor  wife  and  family  this  horse  was  a  most 
timely  acquisition ;  his  wife,  as  I  have  before  stated, 
was  still  living  in  the  Walamet  Valley  in  the  latter 
part  of  1843.    At  the  time  the  above  horse  was  ob- 


36 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


if 


if'l  'i' 


tained,  Madam  Dorion  was  far  advanced  in  her  preg- 
nancy, and  had  two  children  to  take  care  of,  one  four, 
and  the  other  two  years  of  age.  The  latter  of  course 
she  had  frequently  to  carry  on  her  back,  in  addition  to 
the  burden  usually  imposed  upon  the  squaw  by  her  in- 
human husband;  yet,  throughout  this  weary  and 
painful  journey,  she  had  borne  all  her  hardships  with- 
out a  murmur,  and  kept  pace  with  the  best  of  the 
pedestrians  !  And  it  is  said  that  in  the  course  of  the 
enterprise,  she  displayed  a  force  of  character  which 
won  the  respect  and  applause  of  the  while  men. 

On  the  27th  they  obtained  intelligence  again  of  the 
advance  party,  and,  as  the  natives  informed  them  that 
they  had  a  live  dog  in  their  possession,  it  was  conclu- 
sive that  they  had  not  been  reduced  to  the  extremity 
of  hunger.  Here  Mr.  Hunt  could  obtain  no  provisions, 
and  they  proceeded  forward  on  their  now  very  painful 
journey,  while  the  month  of  December  set  in  drearily, 
and  after  accomplishing  four  hundred  and  seventy-two 
miles  of  their  dreary  journey  since  they  left  Caldron 
Linn,  on  the  6th  of  December  they  discovered  Mr. 
Crooks  and  his  party,  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river.  As  soon  as  they  could  be  heard  they  made 
known  their  deplorable  condition,  which  was  that  of 
starvation.  No  time  was  lost  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Hunt 
to  furnish  them  with  a  portion  of  his  remaining  supplies, 
and  as  soon  as  Mr.  Crooks  had  appeased  his  hunger,  he 
gave  Mr.  Hunt  some  account  of  his  wayfaring.  He  had 
been  three  days'  journey  further  down  the  river,  where 
he  found  further  progress  to  be  impossible  ;  and,  being 
destitute  of  provisions,  he  turned  back,  hoping  to  reach  the 
Indians  again  previous  to  arriving  at  the  point  of  starva- 
tion ;  but  it  was  evident  when  he  met  with  Mr.  Hunt's 
party  that,  in  consequence  of  fatigue  and  hunger,  they 
could  not  have  proceeded  much  further.  In  view  of  the 
forbidding  prospects  ahead,  Mr.  Hunt  and  party  deter- 
mined next  morning  to  retrace  their  steps  to  the  place 
where  they  last  obtained  provisions  from  the  Indians. 
Oft  their  return  they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  natives,  from 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


37 


in. 


whom  they  obtained  some  horses ;  after  killing  two  of 
them,  with  which  they  satisfied  their  hunger,  and  leav- 
ing two  more  with  Mr.  Crooks  and  John  Day,  one  of 
his  men,  who  was  unable  to  proceed  but  at  a  very  slow 
rate,  Mr.  Hunt  proceeded  up  the  river  in  order  to  join 
the  main  party,  and  succeeded  in  coming  up  with  them 
in  the  evening.  Here  he  purchased  another  horse, 
and  after  twenty  days  of  ineffectual  toil  to  find  a  pas- 
sage down  the  river,  they  reached  a  little  willowed 
stream,  which  they  had  crossed  on  the  26th  of  Novem- 
ber, and  here  they  camped.  Not  far  from  this  place 
Mr.  Hunt  suceeded  in  obtaining  a  guide,  and  on  the 
21st  of  December  they  set  out  again  with  spirits  some- 
what elated.  They  prosecuted  their  formidable  jour- 
ney with  as  much  despatch  as  possible,  many  interest- 
ing particulars  of  which  I  cannot  mention  ;  but  one 
circumstance  should  not  be  passed  over  unnoticed. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  the  29th  the  wife  of  Dorion, 
who  had  hitherto  kept  on  without  flinching  or  mummr- 
ing,  was  suddenly  taken  in  labour,  and  enriched  her 
husband  with  another  child.  Dorion  remained  in  the 
camp  with  his  family,  in  order  that  his  faithful  spouse 
might  recruit,  with  the  promise  that  he  would  soon 
join  the  party  again ;  and  he  was  as  good  as  his  word  ; 
for  in  the  course  of  the  next  morning  but  one,  the  whole 
Dorion  family  appeared  in  the  camp  in  very  good  health 
and  spirits ! 

The  next  morning  ushered  in  the  new  year,  (1812.) 
Mr  Hunt  was  about  to  resume  his  march,  when  his  men 
requested  to  celebrate  the  day ;  this  request  was  grant- 
ed, and  the  day  passed  away  amidst  singing  and  danc- 
ing, and  feastmg  most  sumptuously  upon  dogs  and 
horse  flesh.  So,  after  two  days  of  welcome  rest,  the 
travellers  addressed  themselves  once  more  to  their 
painful  journey ;  and  after  much  hard  travelling  and 
nard  fare  they  reached  the  Columbia  River  not  far  from 
the  influx  of  the  Wallah-wallah,  on  the  21st  of  January. 
Two  hundred  and  forty  miles  had  they  marched, 
through  wintry  wastes  and  rugged   mountains,  since 


38 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


leaving  Snake  River;  and  six  months  had  elapsed 
since  their  departure  from  the  Arickara  village  on  the 
Missouri.  Their  whole  route  by  land  and  water,  from 
that  point,  had  been,  according  to  their  computation, 
seventeen  hundred  and  fifty-one  miles. 

After  travelling  down  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  for 
about  sixty  miles,  Mr.  Hunt  obtained  from  the  Indians 
vague,  but  deeply-interesting  intelligence  of  that  part 
of  the  enterprise  which  had  proceeded  by  sea  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  The  Indians  spoke  of  a  num- 
ber of  white  men  who  had  built  a  large  house  at  the 
mouth  of  the  great  river,  &c.  On  the  31st  of  January, 
they  arrived  at  a  fall  of  the  Columbia,  and  encamped 
at  the  village  of  Wish-ram.  Here  they  obtained  intel- 
ligence of  the  loss  of  the  Tonquin.  They  could  ob- 
tain no  canoes  in  which  to  descend  the  river  until  they 
arrived  at  the  "  Cascades,"  the  last  rapid  to  be  met  with 
in  their  downward  voyage.  Here  Mr.  Hunt  obtained 
the  necessary  canoes,  and  on  the  15th  of  February 
they  swept  around  "  Tongue  Pohit,"  and  came  in  sight 
of  the  establishment  at  Astoria.  Among  the  first  to 
greet  them  on  their  landing  were  some  of  their  old 
comrades  and  fellow-sufterers,  who,  under  the  conduct 
of  Reed,  M'Lellan,  and  M'Kenzie,  had  parted  from 
them  at  Caldron  Linn.  These  had  reached  Astoria 
nearly  a  month  previously,  and,  judging  from  their  own 
narrow  escape  irom  starvation,  had  given  up  Mr.  Hunt 
and  his  party  for  lost.  I  need  not  say  their  greetings 
were  warm  and  cordial.  When  the  first  burst  of  feel- 
ing was  over,  the  different  bands  interchanged  accounts 
of  their  several  wanderings  after  separating  at  Snake 
River ;  but  to  notice  these  particulars  would  swell  this 
volume  to  too  great  a  size.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  the 
whole  wound  up  with  the  firing  of  guns,  hoisting  co- 
lours, feasting  on  fish,  beavei,  and  venison,  a  distribution 
of  grog,  and  a  dance  at  night  by  the  Canadians. 

Thus,  all  the  leading  men  of  Mr.  Hunt's  expedi- 
tion were  once  more  gathered  together,  except  Mr. 
Crooks,  of  whose  safety  they  entertained  but  little  hope, 


pe( 
Mi 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


m 


considering  the  feeble  condition  in  which  they  had 
been  compelled  to  leave  him  in  the  heart  of  the  wil- 
derness. 


if 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Several  expeditions  depart  from  Astoria — Skirmish  with  the  Indians — 
Arrive  at  Oakinagan — Set  out  on  their  return  to  Astoria — Encounter  com- 
panions of  a  former  expedition,  who  were  supposed  to  be  lost — Arrive  at 
Astoria — Mr.  Astor  sends  an  agent  to  St.  Petersburgh — He  despatches  a 
vessel  to  Oregon — She  arrives  at  Astoria — Parties  go  out  to  establish  new 
trading  posts — A  band  separate  from  the  main  body  on  a  journey  across  the 
Rocky  Mountains — Meet  four  of  their  former  companions,  who  join  them — 
Their  horses  stolen  by  Indians — Encamp  for  the  winter — Arrive  at  St.  Louis, 

Tranquillity  had  prevailed  at  Astoria.  The  ap- 
prehensions of  hostilities  from  the  natives  had  subsi- 
ded :  indeed,  at  the  close  of  the  salmon  season,  the  In- 
dians, for  the  most  part,  disappeared  from  the  river,  so 
that,  for  want  of  their  aid,  the  Astorians  had  at  times 
suffered  considerably  for  want  of  provisions.  There 
were  some  deer  and  some  black  bears  to  be  found  in  :he 
vicinity,  and  elk  in  great  abundance  on  the  adjacent 
mountains  and  hills  ;  but  the  country  was  so  rough,  and 
the  forests  so  dense,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  for 
any  but  the  Indians  to  beat  up  the  game.  The  quan- 
tity of  game,  therefore,  brought  in  by  the  hunters  was 
very  scanty,  and  it  was  frequently  necessary  to  put  all 
hands  upon  allowance.  Toward  spring,  however,  the 
fishing  season  commenced — ^the  season  of  plenty  on  the 
Columbia. 

As  the  spring  opened,  the  little  settlement  at  Astoria 
was  in  agitation,  and  prepared  to  send  forth  various  ex- 
peditions. The  task  of  supplying  the  trading  post  of 
Mr.  David  Stuart,  at  Oakinagan,  was  assigned  to  Mr. 
Robert  Stuart.  The  seeking  out  of  the  cache  at  Cal- 
dron Linn,  made  by  Mr.  Hunt,  was  assigned  to  two 
clerks  named  Russell  Farnham  and  Donald  M'Gilles, 
to  be  conducted  by  a  guide,  and  accompanied  by  eight 
men,  to  assist  in  bringing  home  the  goods.      The 


40 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


despatches,  to  go  across  the  mountains  to  Mr.  Astor  at 
New- York,  were  confided  to  Mr.  John  Reed  ;  and,  as 
it  was  still  hoped  that  Mr.  Crooks  might  be  in  existence, 
and  that  Mr.  Reed  might  meet  with  him,  he  was  charged 
with  goods  and  provisions  to  aid  that  gentleman  on  his 
way  to  Astoria.  Mr.  M'Lellan  also  joined  Mr.  Reed's 
party.  As  the  route  of  these  several  parties  would  be 
the  same  for  nearly  four  hundred  miles,  they  all  set  off 
together,  on  the  22d  of  March,  to  the  number  of  seven- 
teen men,  in  two  canoes ;  and  early  in  the  month  of 
April  they  arrived  at  the  long  narrows.  Here  they 
were  obliged  to  make  a  portage,  and,  in  so  doing,  the 
Indians  stole  some  of  their  goods,  and  the  tin  box  in 
which  were  deposited  the  despatches.  Mr.  Reed,  the 
bearer  of  the  box,  was  severely  wounded.  After  making 
the  portage  they  proceeded  up  the  river  :  but  as  the  In- 
dians had  lost  two  of  their  number,  who  were  shot  du- 
ring the  s?  irmish  at  the  portage,  they  killed  two  horses, 
drank  the  hot  blood  to  give  firmness  to  their  courage, 
performed  the  dead  dance  round  the  slain,  and  raised 
the  war-song  of  vengeance ;  then  mounting  their 
horses  to  the  number  of  four  or  five  hundred,  they  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  some  distance  above  the  canoes  un- 
discovered, and  were  crossing  the  river  to  post  them- 
selves on  the  side  along  which  the  party  was  coasting, 
when  they  were  fortunately  discovered.  Finding  that 
the  Indians  had  the  advantage  of  the  ground,  the  party 
halted,  made  a  fire,  prepared  their  arms  for  action,  dress- 
ed Mr.  Reed's  wounds,  lashed  their  canoes  to  the  shore, 
and  there  awaited  the  menaced  attack. 

The  Indians,  seeing  their  white  neighbours  so  well 
prepared  to  receive  them,  offered  to  negotiate,  and 
peace  was  finally  restored  for  the  consideration  of  a 
blanket  to  cover  the  dead,  and  some  tobacco  to  smoke 
by  the  living.  The  tin  case,  however,  containing  the 
important  despatches  for  New- York,  was  irretrievably 
lost.  As  the  object  of  Mr.  Reed's  overland  journey 
was  thereby  defeated,  the  whole  party  repaired  with 
Mr.  Stuart  to  Oakinagan.    After  remaining  here  two 


M 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


41 


Btor  at 
ind,  as 
itence, 
barged 
on  his 
Reed's 
)uld  be 
set  off 
seven- 
anlh  of 
:e  they 
ng,  the 
box  in 
led,  the 
making 
the  In- 
ihot  du- 
horses, 
lourage, 
raised 
their 
ley  suc- 
oes  un- 
t  them- 
oasting, 
ng  that 
le  party 
,  dress- 
shore, 


te 


so  well 
and 
ion  of  a 
smoke 
ling  the 
ievably 
journey 
3d  with 
3re  two 


% 


or  three  days,  they  all  set  out  on  their  return  to  Asto- 
ria, accompanied  by  Mr.  David  Stuart.  This  gentle- 
man had  a  large  quantity  of  beaver  skins  at  his  esta- 
blishment, but  left  them  for  fear  of  being  robbed  by  the 
way. 

On  their  way  down,  they  were  hailed  one  day  in 
English.  Looking  around,  they  descried  two  wretch- 
ed men,  entirely  naked.  They  pulled  to  shore ;  and, 
to  their  surprise  and  joy,  they  proved  to  be  Mr.  Crooks 
and  John  Day,  whom  Mr.  Hunt  was  obliged  to  leave, 
in  the  month  of  December,  on  the  banks  of  the  Snake 
River.  They  had  been  wandering  on  the  mountains 
and  over  desolate  wastes  much  of  the  time ;  but  were 
at  last  providentially  led  to  the  Wallah-wallah  tribe  of 
Indians,  who  treated  them  kindly,  and  directed  them  to 
the  Columbia,  and  they  reached  the  falls  of  that  river ; 
but  here  they  were  stripped  of  everything,  and  com- 

felled  to  depart  immediately,  at  the  peril  of  their  lives, 
n  this  forlorn  plight  they  sought  to  find  their  way  back 
to  the  hospitable  Wallah-wallahs,  and  had  advanced 
eighty  miles  along  the  river,  when  fortunately,  on  the 
very  morning  they  were  going  to  leave  the  river,  and 
strike  inland,  the  canoes  of  Mr.  Stuart  hove  in  sight. 

It  is  needless  to  attempt  to  describe  the  joy  of  these 
poor  men,  or  the  hearty  welcome  with  which  they  were 
received  by  their  old  associates.  The  whole  party  now 
continued  down  the  river,  and  arrived  in  safety  at  As- 
toria on  the  lllh  of  May. 

Having  given  a  brief  account  of  the  two  expeditiois 
by  sea  and  land  to  the  moulli  of  the  Columbia,  and  pre- 
sented a  view  of  affairs  at  Astoria,  we  will  turn  for  a 
moment  to  the  master  spirit  of  the  enterprise,  who  regu- 
lated the  springs  of  Astoria,  at  his  residence  at  New- 
York.  ......V  ,■...■•  ,--  '^.i'.'.*       ■„    ^■'     -     ■•.'    W"  . 

A  part  of  Mr.  Aster's  plan  was  to  furnish  the  Rus- 
sian fur  establishment  on  the  north-west  coast  with  reg- 
ular supplies,  so  as  to  render  it  independent  of  those 
casual  vessels  which  cut  up  the  trade,  and  supplied  the 
natives  with  arms.     This  plan  had  been  countenanced 


II 


"'i! 


i^; 


|1 .    £ 


4^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


by  our  own  government,  and  likewise  by  Count  Pahlen, 
the  Russian  minister  at  Washington.  But  Mr.  Astor 
was  desirous  of  establishing  a  complete  arrsmgement 
on  the  subject  with  the  Russian  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, under  the  sanction  of  the  Russian  government. 
For  this  purpose,  in  March,  1811,  he  despatched  a  con- 
fidential agent  to  St.  Petersburgh,  with  full  powers  to 
enter  into  the  requisite  negotiations. 

A  passage  was  given  to  this  gentleman  by  the  go- 
vernment of  the  United  States  in  the  John  Adams,  one 
of  its  armed  vessels,  bound  to  Europe.  Mr.  Astor 
now  despatched  the  annual  ship,  contemplated  in  his 
general  design,  not  having  heard  of  the  previous  expe- 
ditions, but  presuming  all  to  be  well.  This  vessel  was 
called  the  Beaver,  four  hundred  and  ninety  tons'  burden, 
and  was  freighted  with  a  valuable  cargo.  A  reinforce- 
ment was  also  shipped,  consisting  of  a  partner,  five 
clerks,  fifteen  American  labourers,  and  six  Canadian 
voyageurs.  His  agents  being  principally  British  sub- 
jects, experienced  in  the  Canadian  fur  trade,  henceforth 
it  was  his  intention  to  select,  as  far  as  possible,  Ameri- 
cans, to  secure  a  preponderance  of  their  influence  in  the 
management  of  the  company,  and  to  make  it  decidedly 
national.  Accordingly,  the  present  partner,  who  took 
the  lead  in  the  present  expedition,  was  a  native  of  the 
United  States.  Most  of  the  clerks  were  young  gentle- 
men of  good  connections  in  the  American  cities. 

Mr.  Astor  instructed  Captain  Sowle,  the  commander 
of  the  Beaver,  to  touch  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  in- 
quire about  the  fortunes  of  the  Tonquin,  and  whether 
an  establishment  had  been  formed  at  the  Columbia.  If 
so,  he  was  to  take  as  many  Sandwich  Islanders  as  the 
ship  would  accommodate,  and  proceed  thither.  From 
that  he  was  to  proceed  to  New-Archangel,  with  the  sup- 
plies for  the  Russian  post  at  that  place,  where  he  could 
receive  peltries  in  payment,  return  to  Astoria,  by  tra- 
ding along  the  coast,  take  in  the  furs  at  that  place,  and 
proceed  to  Canton. 

The  Beaver  sailed  from  New- York  on  the  lOth  of 


-> 
* 


C( 

n 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


43 


ahlen, 
Aster 
ement 
Com- 
iiment. 
a  con- 
jrers  lo 

he  ge- 
ns, one 

Aster 
I  in  his 
s  expe- 
sel  was 
burden, 
inferce- 
ler,  five 
anadian 
ish  sub- 
nceforlh 
Ameri- 
:e  in  the 
scidedly 
ho  took 

of  the 

gentle- 
s. 

imander 
inds,  in- 
whether 
ibia.  If 
rs  as  the 
From 

the  sup- 
he  could 

by  tra- 
lace,  and 

10th  of 


October,  1811,  and  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands  with- 
out any  occurrence  of  moment.  Here  a  rumor  was 
heard  of  the  fate  of  the  Tonquin.  Doubts  were  enter- 
tained with  respect  to  the  success  of  the  former  expe- 
ditions ;  but  after  much  deliberation,  the  captain  took 
twelve  Sandwich  Islanders  on  board,  and  proceeded  on 
his  voyage. 

On  the  6th  of  May  he  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  the 
Columbia.  After  firing  guns,  and  having  been  answer- 
ed by  the  Astorians,  a  white  flag  was  discovered  wav- 
ing on  Cape  Disappointment,  and  on  the  9th  the  vessel 
came  to  anchor  in  Baker's  Bay. 

The  arrival  of  the  Beaver,  with  men  and  supplies, 
gave  new  life  and  vigour  to  affairs  at  Astoria.  Two 
parties  were  immediately  set  on  foot  to  proceed  sever- 
ally under  the  command  of  Messrs.  M'Kenzie  and  Clark, 
for  the  purpose  of  establishing  posts  above  the  forks  of 
the  Columbia,  at  points  where  most  rivalry  and  opposi- 
tion were  apprehended  from  the  North-West  Company. 
Mr.  David  Stuart  was  to  repair  with  supplies  to  his 
post  on  the  Oakinagan ;  and  Mr.  Robert  Stuart  was 
chosen  to  head  a  fourth  party  for  the  purpose  of  con- 
veying despatches  to  Mr.  Aster,  at  New- York.  In 
this  expedition  he  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  M'Lellan 
and  Mr.  Crooks.  These  several  parties  all  set  off  in 
company,  on  the  29th  of  June,  under  a  salute  of  cannon 
from  the  fort. 

Seen  after  they  left  Astoria,  John  Day  became  insane. 
His  companions  saw  him  back  in  safety  to  Astoria, 
where  he  died  within  a  year.  Nothing  nirther  of  im- 
portance occurred  previous  to  the  parties  reaching 
Wallah- wallah,  except  their  success  in  recovering  the 
rifles  of  Mr.  Crooks  and  John  Day,  of  which  they  had 
been  robbed  on  their  way  down  the  river,  as  before 
observed.  At  Wallah-wallah  the  party  met  with  a 
cordial  reception  ;  and  Mr.  Stuart  purchased  a  sufficient 
number  of  horses  for  the  prosecution  of  his  journey 
across  the  mor;alains.  All  things  being  in  readiness, 
he  and  his  little  band  mounted  their  steeds   on   the 


44 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


31st  of  July,  took  leave  of  their  associates,  who  gave 
them  three  cheers,  and  shaped  their  course  for  the 
Rocky  Mountains ;  and  on  tne  20th  of  August  they 
reached  the  main  body  of  Woodpile  Creek,  where  Mr. 
Hunt  had  separated  from  Mr.  Crooks  in  the  preceding 
year. 

On  the  21st  they  arrived  at  Snake  River.  On  the 
second  evening,  as  they  were  passing  up  the  river, 
they  were  visited  by  a  Snake  Indian,  who  informed 
them  that  a  white  man  resided  at  an  encampment  of 
the  tribe ;  but  they  found  him  not.  They  soon  fell  in 
with  some  Shoshonies,  who  said  there  were  some 
white  men  residing  with  their  people,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river;  but  this  proved  to  be  an  Indian  story. 

Not  far  distant  they  fell  in  with  an  Indian  who  en- 
gaged to  be  their  gnicle,  and  acted  as  such  for  a  day  or 
two ;  but  was  among  the  missing  one  morning,  in 
company  with  Mr.  Stuart's  horse. 

On  the  25th  of  August  one  of  the  men  scrambled 
down  the  bank  of  the  river  to  drink,  and  what  was  his 
surprise  to  behold  a  white  man,  by  the  side  of  the  river, 
fishing  !  This  proved  to  be  John  Hoback,  one  of  their 
long-lost  companions.  They  had  scarcely  exchanged 
greetings,  when  three  other  men  came  out  from  among 
the  willows.  They  were  Joseph  Miller,  Jacob  Rezner, 
and  Robinson,  the  scalped  Kentuckian,  the  veteran  of  the 
Bloody  Ground.  After  these  wanderers  had  recounted 
their  perilous  adventures  and  hair-breadth  escapes, 
they  joined  the  party,  resolving  to  give  up  the  life  of 
trappers,  and  return  with  Mr.  Stuart  to  St.  Louis.  They 
pursued  their  journey,  and  on  the  29th  arrived  at 
Caldron  Linn.  They  now  proceeded  to  the  spot  where 
Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party  had  made  the  caches,  and 
found  all  open  and  rifled  but  three.  From  these  Mr. 
Stuart  took  what  things  were  necessary  for  his  journey, 
deposited  all  surplus  baggage,  and  closed  all  up  again. 
And  here  it  is  worth  time  and  paper  to  record  the  in- 
domitable spirit  of  the  western  trapper. 

No  sooner  did  the  trio  of  Kentucky  hunters,  Robin- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


45 


m 


Mr. 


■'m^f 


i;-"*! 


son,  Rezner,  and  Hoback,  find  that  they  could  once 
more  be  fitted  out  for  a  campaign  of  beaver  trapping, 
than  they  forgot  all  that  they  had  suffered,  and  deter- 
mined upon  another  trial  of  their  fortunes,  preferring  to 
take  their  chance  in  the  wilderness,  rather  than  return 
home  ragged  and  penniless.  As  to  Mr.  Miller,  he 
determined  to  go  with  the  parly,  being  satisfied  with 
the  novelty  of  the  woods. 

The  three  hunters  were  accordingly  fitted  out  as  fully 
as  the  caches  would  permit,  and  after  taking  leave  of 
their  companions,  and  receiving  their  good  wishes,  they 
set  out  in  pursuit  of  the  beaver ;  and  on  the  1st  of 
September,  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  resumed  their 
journey,  and  after  passing  many  dangers,  and  being 
nearly  robbed  by  a  band  of  Crows,  they  reached  Mad 
River  on  the  18th  of  September.  On  the  19lh  they 
rose  early  in  the  morning,  and  began  to  prepare  for  a 
departure.  Mr.  Stuart  was  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  at 
a  short  distance  from  the  camp,  when  he  heard  the  cry 
of  "  Indians !  Indians  !  to  arms  !  to  arms  !"  A  mounted 
Crow  galloped  past  the  camp,  bearing  a  red  flag.  He 
halted  on  the  summit  of  a  neighbouring  knoll,  and 
waved  his  red  banner.  A  diabolical  yell  now  broke 
forth  on  the  other  side  of  the  camp,  beyond  where  the 
horses  were  grazing,  and  a  small  troop  of  savages  came 
galloping  up,  whooping  and  making  a  great  clamour. 
The  horses  took  fright,  and  dashed  across  the  camp,  in 
the  direction  of  the  standard-bearer,  attracted  by  his 
waving  flag.  He  instantly  put  spurs  to  his  steed,  and 
scoured  off,  followed  by  the  panic-stricken  herd,  their 
fright  being  increased  by  the  yells  of  the  savages  in  the 
rear.  The  reserve  party  of*^  savages  now  came  up, 
whooping  and  yelling  in  triumph  and  derision,  the 
last  of  whom  proved  to  be  their  leader,  who  had  pre- 
viously failed  to  obtain  Mr.  Stuart's  excellent  horse. 
As  he  passed  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  comrades,  he  exhibited 
the  most  insulting  gestures,  and  uttered  some  jeering 
words,  which  they  could  not  understand.  The  rifle  of 
Ben  Jones  was  levelled  in  an  instant,  and  the  bullet 


I 


46 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Ei 


had  well  nigh  flown.  "  Not  for  your  life  !"  exclaimed 
Mr.  Stuart,  "  you  will  bring  destruction  on  us  all !" 

It  was  hard  to  restrain  Ben,  when  the  mark  was  so 
fair.  "  O,  Mr.  Stuart,"  exclaimed  he,  "  only  let  me 
have  one  crack  at  the  rascal,  and  you  may  keep  all  the 
pay  that  is  due  me." 

"If  you  fire,"  cried  Mr.  Stuart,  "I'll  blow  your 
brains  out." 

By  this  time  the  Indian  was  far  out  of  reach,  and 
had  joined  his  men,  who  were  scampering  otF  with  the 
horses,  their  red  flag  flying  in  triumph  over  their  heads. 
Thus  were  our  travellers  in  a  moment  deprived  of  the 
means  of  conveying  themselves  or  baggage,  while  a 
wide  mountain  region  was  left  for  them  to  traverse, 
which  region  was  everywhere  infested  with  bands  of 
marauders  like  unto  their  last  visiters. 

For  a  few  moments  the  whole  party  were  disheartened 
and  dismayed,  but  they  soon  recovered  their  wonted 
fortitude,  and  set  to  work  with  promptness  to  fit  them- 
selves for  the  change  in  their  condition.  They  selected 
from  their  baggage  such  articles  as  were  indispensable 
to  their  journey,  and  deposited  the  rest  in  caches ;  but 
as  they  were  preparing  for  their  departure,  they  dis- 
covered two  heads  peering  over  the  edge  of  an  im- 
pending cliff,  which  evidently  belonged  to  Indian  spies, 
who  were  watching  the  movements  of  the  camp ;  and 
lest  they  should  enrich  themselves  with  more  booty, 
by  rifling  the  caches,  they  were  torn  up,  and  all  the 
articles  not  needed  were  collected  together  and  burned. 

They  now  shouldered  their  packs,  and  set  off"  on  their 
pedestrian  wayfaring.  Nothing  but  what  must  be  ex- 
pected on  a  journey  of  such  a  description  befell  them, 
until  they  reached  one  of  the  head  waters  of  the  Platte 
River,  and  after  pursuing  it  for  some  distance  they 
pitched  their  camp  for  the  winter,  it  being  impossible 
to  reach  the  Missouri  before  spring,  in  consequence  of 
the  cold  and  snow,  which  had  already  rendered  their 
journeying  very  painful. 

It  was  now  the  2d  of  November,  and  the  first  work 


1 


O 
isF 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


47 


imed 
!" 

as  so 
jt  me 
ill  the 

your 

1,  and 
ith  the 
heads, 
of  the 
hile  a 
iverse, 
ids  of 

irtened 
ivonted 
,  them- 
clected 
jnsable 
is;  but 
ey  dis- 
an  im- 
[1  spies, 
p ;  and 
booty, 
all  the 
burned, 
on  their 
i  be  ex- 
11  them, 
e  Platte 
ce  they 
possible 
ence  of 
ed  their 

rst  work 


•n- 


was  to  secure  provisions,  then  a  house,  deer-skins  for 
moccasins,  garments,  and  other  purposes;  and  these 
things  were  all  secured  in  due  season,  for  here  were 
abundance  of  buffalo  and  deer,  and  plenty  of  timber. 
In  a  few  days  they  were  comfortably  housed,  and 
abundantly  supplied  with  all  that  was  deemed  necessary 
for  a  very  comfortable  winter's  residence.  But  they 
had  not  enjoyed  their  comforts  long  before  they  were 
convinced — by  the  approach  of  an  Arapahay  war  party, 
who  were  in  pursuit  of  a  part^'  of  Crows  who  were 
said  to  be  encamped  to  the  north,  and  who  had  recently 
robbed  iho  Arapahays  of  their  horses  and  squaws — 
that  their  retreat  was  not  a  very  safe  one.  Consequently 
they  determined  to  shift  quarters  with  all  despatch. 
Accordingly,  on  the  13th  of  December,  they  bade  adieu 
to  their  comfortable  quarters,  where  for  several  weeks 
they  had  been  indulging  in  the  sweets  of  repose,  of 
plenty,  and  of  fancied  security.  And  after  a  dreary 
journey  down  the  river,  they  determined  once  more  to 
set  up  their  winter  quarter?.  New-year's  day  dawned, 
when,  as  yet,  but  one  wall .  of  their  cabin  was  com- 
pleted :  the  day,  however,  was  not  permitted  to  pass 
uncelebrated.  The  choicest  of  the  buffalo  meat  was 
forthcoming ;  and  boiling,  and  roasting,  and  eating,  such 
as  would  astonish  any  one  that  has  not  lived  among 
hunters  or  Indians,  made  up  the  labours  of  the  day ; 
and  as  an  extra  regale,  having  no  tobacco,  they  cut  up 
an  old  tobacco  pouch,  still  redolent  with  the  potent 
herb,  and  smoked  it  in  token  of  brotherly  love  and 
unfading  friendship. 

The  next  day  they  resumed  their  labours,  and  by  the 
6th  of  the  month  the  cabin  was  completed.  They  soon 
killed  abundance  of  buffalo,  and  again  laid  in  a  slock 
of  winter  provisions.  Here  they  were  permitted  to 
remain  in  quiet,  plenty,  and  health,  until  the  8th  of 
March,  when  they  resumed  their  journey. 

When  they  arrived  at  Grand  Isle,  they  met  with  an 
Otto  Indian,  by  whom  they  learned  that  war  had  ex- 
isted for  a  whole  year  between  the  United  States  and 


:il 


48 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


England.  This  Indian  conducted  them  to  his  village, 
where  they  met  with  two  white  men,  Messrs.  Dornin 
and  Rio,  Indian  traders,  recently  from  St.  Louis. 

Mr.  Dornin  furnished  them  with  a  canoe,  and  pro- 
visions for  their  voyage  to  St.  Louis.  On  the  16tn  of 
Aoril  they  commenced  their  downward  passage,  and 
arrived  at  Fort  Osage.  Here  Lieutenant  Brownson 
furnished  them  with  an  ample  supply  of  provisions,  for 
the  continuance  of  their  voyage ;  and  on  the  30th  of 
April  they  arrived,  in  perfect  health,  and  fine  spirits, 
at  St.  Louis.  Their  arrival  caused  quite  a  sensation 
at  the  place,  bringing  the  first  intelligence  of  the  fortunes 
of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  party,  and  of  the  new  estabhsh- 
ment  at  Astoria. 


%f 


I 


CHAPTER  V. 

Agent  sent  to  St.  Petersburgh  negotiates  an  agreement — Mr.  Astor  sends 
out  another  vessel  to  the  settlement  on  the  Columbia — Messrs.  Stuart,  Clark, 
and  M'Kenzie  establish  new  posts — Caches  robbed  by  Snake  Indians,  who 
are  attacked  by  the  Blackfeet,  who  seize  their  booty — The  Beaver  departs 
on  a  coasting  voyage — M'Kenzie  breaks  up  his  establishment,  and  returns 
to  Astoria — ^He  and  others  set  out  on  a  journey — Three  of  them  enter  a 
lodgment  of  Indians,  and  are  in  imminent  danger — Arrives  at  his  former 
station,  and  finds  that  his  caches  have  been  robbed — Mr.  Clark  causes  an 
Indian  to  be  hung — They  return  to  Astoria. 

The  agent  sent  by  Mr.  Astor  to  St.  Petersburgh,  to 
negotiate  in  his  name,  as  president  of  the  American  Fur 
Company,  had,  under  sanction  of  the  Russian  govern- 
ment, made  a  provisional  agreement  with  the  Russian 
Company.  By  this  agreement,  which  was  ratified  by 
Mr.  Astor  in  1813,  the  two  companies  bound  them- 
selves not  to  interfere  with  each  other's  trading  and 
hunting  grounds,  or  to  furnish  arms  and  ammunition 
to  the  Indians.  They  were  to  act  in  concert,  also, 
against  all  interlopers,  and  to  succour  each  other  in  case 
of  danger.  The  American  Company  was  to  have  the 
exclusive  right  to  supply  the  Russian  post  with  goods 
and  necessaries,  receiving  peltries  in  payment,  at  stated 
prices.    They  were  also,  if  requested  by  the  Russian 


to  se] 

He  s( 

remai 

depar 

were 

guns, 

at  the 

much 

persoi 

and  s( 

W.C( 

Astori 

trol  of 

very  ( 

Britisf 

send  s 

urged 

Compj 

wrote 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


49 


ilage, 
ornin 

pro- 
th  of 
1,  and 
ivnson 
IS,  for 
)th  of 
spirits, 
isation 
)rtunes 
ablish- 


m 


^ 


.stor  sends 
lart,  Clark, 
dians,  who 
-er  departs 
,nd  returns 
m  enter  a 
his  former 
causes  an 


urgh,  to 
ican  Fur 
Tovern- 
lussian 
fied  by 
I  them- 
ing  and 
nnunition 
rt,  also, 
r  in  case 
lave  the 
ih  goods 
at  stated 
Russian 


¥i 


i 


-,'-* 


governor,  to  convey  the  furs  of  the  Russian  Company 
to  Canton,  sell  them  on  commission,  and  bring  back 
the  proceeds,  at  such  freight  as  might  be  agreed  on  at 
the  time.  This  agreement  was  to  continue  in  operation 
four  years,  and  to  be  renewable  for  a  similar  term, 
unless  some  unforeseen  contingency  should  render  a 
modification  necessary.  By  other  arrangements,  in 
connection  with  the  above,  Mr.  Astor  hoped  gradually 
to  make  Astoria  the  great  emporium  of  the  American 
fur  trade  in  the  Pacific,  and  the  nucleus  of  a  powerful 
American  state.  But  while  he  was  entertaining  these 
sanguine  expectations,  and  before  he  had  ratified  the 
agreement,  as  above  stated,  war  broke  out  between  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain. 

The  prospect  now  became  exceedingly  discouraging, 
but  in  the  midst  of  all,  notwithstanding  he  had  received 
no  intelligence  of  the  first  expedition,  in  consequence 
of  Mr.  Reed's  mishap  in  losing  the  tin  box  at  the  falls 
of  the  Columbia,  and  the  unhorsing  of  Mr.  Stuart  by 
the  Crows  among  the  mountains,  Mr.  Astor  determined 
to  send  another  ship  to  the  relief  of  the  settlement. 
He  selected  for  this  purpose  a  vessel  called  the  Lark, 
remarkable  for  her  fast  sailing.  But  previous  to  her 
departure  he  learned  that  the  North- West  Company 
were  preparing  to  send  out  an  armed  ship  of  twenty 
guns,  called  the  Isaac  Todd,  to  form  an  establishment 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.  These  tidings  gave 
much  uneasiness.  A  considerable  proportion  of  the 
persons  in  his  employ  were  Scotchmen  and  Canadians, 
and  several  of  them  had  been  in  the  service  of  the  N. 
W.  Company.  Should  Mr.  Hunt  have  failed  to  arrive  at 
Astoria,  tne  whole  establishment  would  be  under  the  con- 
trol of  Mr.  M'Dougal,  of  whose  fidelity  he  had  received 
very  disparaging  accounts  from  Capt.  Thorn.  The 
British  government  might  also  deem  it  worth  while  to 
send  a  force  against  the  establishment,  having  been 
urged  to  do  so  some  time  previously,  by  the  N.  W. 
Company.  Under  all  these  circumstances,  Mr.  Astor 
wrote  to  Mr.  Monroe,  then  secretary  of  state,  request- 

3 


50 


TEN    YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


ing  protection  from  the  government  of  the  United  States. 
He  received  no  reply  to  his  requests  up  to  the  month 
of  March,  when  he  ordered  the  Lark  to  put  to  sea. 
The  officer  who  was  to  command  her  shrunk  from  his 
engagement,  and  in  the  exigency  of  the  moment  she 
was  given  in  charge  to  Mr.  Northrop  the  mate.  Mr. 
Nicholas  G.  Ogden,  a  gentleman  of  probity  and  talents, 
sailed  as  supercargo.  The  Lark  put  to  sea  in  the  be- 
ginning of  March,  1813. 

By  this  opportunity  Mr.  Astor  wrote  to  Mr.  Hunt, 
as  head  of  the  establishment  at  the  mouth  of  the  Co- 
lumbia ;  for  he  would  not  allow  himself  to  doubt  of  his 
welfare.  "  I  always  think  you  are  well,"  said  he, 
"  and  that  I  shall  see  you  again,  which  Heaven  I  hope 
will  grant."  Mr.  A.  further  observed,  "  Oui'  enterprise 
is  grand,  and  deserves  success,  and  I  hope  in  God  it 
will  meet  it."  And  in  view  of  the  threatening  troubles, 
he  further  remarked,  "  If  my  object  were  merely  gain 
of  money,  I  should  say,  Think  whether  it  is  best  to  save 
what  we  can,  and  abandon  the  place ;  but  the  very 
idea  is  like  a  dagger  to  my  heart."  This  extract  is 
sufficient  to  show  the  spirit  and  the  views  which  ac- 
tuated Mr.  Astor  in  this  great  undertaking. 

Weeks  and  months  passed  away  without  any  tidings 
by  which  the  painful  incertitude  that  hung  over  every 
part  of  this  enterprise  might  be  dispelled.  But  as  Mr. 
Astor  was  sitting  one  gloomy  evening  at  his  window, 
revolving  over  the  fate  of  the  Tonquin,  and  fearing 
lest  something  equally  as  tragical  might  have  befallen 
the  party  of  Mr.  Hunt  while  crossing  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  he  received  a  newspaper ;  and  the  first 
paragraph  that  caught  his  eye  announced  the  arrival 
of  Mr.  Stuart  and  his  party  at  St.  Louis,  and  also  that 
Mr.  Hunt  had  effected  his  perilous  journey  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia.  This  gleam  of  sunshine  for 
a  time  dispelled  every  cloud,  and  he  looked  forward 
with  some  hope  to  the  accomplishment  of  his  plans. 

The  course  of  our  narrative  now  takes  us  back  to 
Wallah-wallah,  to  the  parties  whom  Mr.  Stuart  left 


n 
tt 
ec 

yi 

H. 
Pi. 

|.        of 

w       she 

Ne 

and 

a  pi 

Riv. 

here 

part] 

the 

of  tl 

the 

estal 

detac 

Reec 

Linni 

pendj 

goods 

week) 

tribe,  f 

com  I 

cache 

tribe 

across 

Ri  verl 

chan^l^ 

these" 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


51 


ates. 
lonth 
)  sea. 
mhis 
it  she 
Mr. 
ailenls, 
hebe- 

Hunt, 
he  Co- 
t  of  his 
aid  he, 
1 1  hope 
terprise 
I  God  it 
troubles, 
rely  gain 
3t  to  save 
the  very 
jxlract  is 
vhich  ac- 

ay  tidings 
ver  every 
,ut  as  Mr. 
J  window, 
,d  fearing 
e  befallen 
Rocky 
a  the  first 
;be  anival 
|d  also  that 
ley  to  the 
inshine  for 
;d  forward 
8  plans, 
us  back  to 
Stuait  left 


le 


there,  when  he  commenced  his  land  journey  across  the 
mountains  to  St.  Louis.  The  three  parties  left  there 
separated  from  each  other  soon  after  Mr.  Stuart's  de- 
parture. Mr.  David  Stuart  proceeded  with  his  men  to 
his  post  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oakinagon.  Having  fur- 
nished this  with  goods  and  ammunition,  he  proceeded 
three  hundred  miles  up  that  river,  where  he  establish- 
ed another  post.  Mr.  Clark  conducted  his  little  band 
up  Lewis  River  to  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  com- 
ing in  from  the  north,  called,  by  the  Canadians,  Pavion. 
Here  he  found  an  encampment  of  Nez  PerceSj  or 
Pierced-nose  Indians,  whose  character  will  be  spoken 
of  hereafter.  Here  Mr.  Clark  laid  up  his  boats  in  a 
sheltered  place  under  the  promised  protection  of  the 
Nez  Perce  chief,  purchased  horses  from  the  Indians, 
and  proceeded  across  hill  and  dale  until  he  arrived  at 
a  point  of  land  where  the  Pointed  Heart  and  Spokan 
Rivers  meet.  Here  he  established  a  trading  post,  and 
here  v,  •  leave  him  for  the  present. 

M;  "iCeniie,  who  was  at  the  head  of  the  third 
party  '?■  gated  for  some  days  up  the  south  branch  of 
the  Columbia,  commonly  called  Lewis  River,  in  honour 
of  the  first  explorer.  Having  arrived  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Shahaptan,  he  ascended  it  some  distance,  and 
established  his  trading  post  upon  its  banks.  He  now 
detached  a  small  band  under  the  command  of  Mr.  John 
Reed  to  visit  the  caches  made  by  Mr.  Hunt  at  Caldron 
Linn,  and  to  bring  the  contents  to  that  post ;  as  he  de- 
pended in  some  measure  on  them  for  his  supplies  of 
goods  and  ammunition.  They  had  not  been  gone  a 
week,  when  two  Indians  arrived  of  the  Pallatapalla 
tribe,  who  lived  upon  a  river  of  the  same  name.  These 
communicated  the  unwelcome  intelligence  that  the 
caches  had  been  robbed.  They  said  that  some  of  their 
tribe  had,  in  the  course  of  the  preceding  spring,  been 
across  the  mountains,  which  separated  them  from  Snake 
River,  and  had  traded  horses  with  the  Snakes  in  ex- 
change for  blankets,  robes,  and  other  goods ;  that 
these  articles  the  Snakes  had  procured  from  caches  to 


m 

wMBm 

52 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


which  they  had  been  guided  by  some  white  men  who 
resided  among  them,  wad  who  afterward  accompanied 
them  across  me  Rocky  Momitains.  This  perplexing 
intelHgence  was  confirmed  by  the  Indians,  *who  exhib- 
ited an  Enghsh  saddle  and  bridle,  which  had  formerly 
belonged  to  Mr.  Crooks.  The  secret  of  the  caches 
was  revealed  after  the  following  manner,  as  ascertained 
by  Mr.  Reed,  when  he  arrived  at  the  Snake  River. 
Here,  in  an  encampment  of  the  natives,  he  met  with 
six  white  rnen,  wanderers  from  the  main  expedition  of 
Mr.  Hunt,  who,  after  their  many  wanderings  and  mis- 
fortunes, had  fortunately  come  together  at  this  place. 
Three  of  these  men  had  left  Mr.  Crooks  in  February 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Snake  River,  being  dis- 
mayed by  the  increasing  hardships  of  the  journey,  and 
fear  of  starvation.  They  had  returned  to  a  Snake 
encampment,  where  they  passed  the  residue  of  the 
winter. 

Early  in  the  spring,  being  utterly  destitute,  and  in 
great  extremity,  and  having  worn  out  the  hospitality 
of  the  Snakes,  they  determined  to  avail  themselves  of 
the  buried  treasure  within  their  knowledge.  They 
communicated  their  designs  to  the  Snake  chieftains, 
who  pledged  their  honour  as  great  chiefs  and  Snakes, 
that  if  they  would  conduct  them  to  this  hid  treasure, 
they  should  be  rewarded  with  horses  and  provisions  for 
their  homeward-bound  journey.  So,  being  elated  with 
the  fair  prospect  of  wealth  on  the  part  of  their  Snake- 
ships,  and  of  once  more  reaching  the  land  of  civilizs^- 
tion  on  the  part  of  the  whites,  they  set  oflf  for  Caldron 
Linn.  Who  can  describe  the  delight  of  the  savages 
when  the  caches  began  to  discorge  the  blankets,  the 
robes,  and  brass  trinkets,  and  the  perfect  ecstasy  when 
the  stiips  of  scarlet  cloth  made  their  appearance ! 
This  treasure  rendered  the  Snakes  absolutely  rich,  and 
once  more  placed  our  Canadians  in  very  enviable  cir- 
cumstances, inasmuch  as  their  friends  the  Snakes  had 
most  faithfully  fulfilled  their  promise  in  supplying  them 
with  horses  to  ride,  and  with  arms  from  the  treasures 


('SM 


TEN  TEARS  IN  0RE60N. 


53 


xing 
thib- 
aerly 
iches 
Eiined 
liver, 
with 
on  of 
1  mis- 
place, 
jruary 
ig  dia- 
ly,  and 
Snake 
of  the 

and  in 

mitahty 
Ives  of 
They 
ieftains, 
SnakeSf 
reasure, 
jions  for 
ted  with 
Snake- 
civiUzv 
Caldron 
savages 
lets,  the 
sy  when 
earance ! 
rich,  and 
able  cir- 
aked  had 
ing  them 
treasures 


of  the  caches.  The  Snakes  now  determined  on  a 
hunting  match  on  the  buffalo  prairies,  to  lay  in  a  sup- 
ply of  beef^  that  they  might  live  in  plenty,  as  became 
men  of  their  improved  condition;  and  our  newly- 
mounted  cavali3rs  determined  to  accompany  them  in 
this  expedition.  They  crossed  the  mountains,  and 
reached  the  head  waters  of  the  Missouri  in  safety,  and 
made  great  havoc  among  the  buffaloes.  But  in  the 
midst  of  their  feasting  and  rejoicing,  and  hopes  of  future 
abundance,  their  camp  was  surprised  by  the  Blackfeet, 
when  th  y  were  obliged  to  drop  all,  aiKl  after  behold- 
ing several  of  their  party  slain  on  the  spot,  the  re- 
mainder, with  their  Canadian  allies,  scampered  off  for 
the  mountains,  like  so  many  mice  scudding  to  their 
holes,  on  being  surprised  by  puss,  while  in  the  very 
act  of  devouring  a  fine  piece  of  stolen  cheese.  Our 
heroes  succeeded  in  returning  to  the  old  encampment 
on  Snake  River,  as  poor  as  they  were  before  they  ob- 
tained the  treasure  from  the  caches.  They  had  not 
been  long  there  when  they  were  cheered  with  the  ar- 
rival of  Carson  and  other  trappers,  who  had  been  left 
by  Mr.  Hunt  to  trap  beaver,  in  the  preceding  month 
of  September.  They  had  departed  from  the  main 
body  well  armed,  and  provided  with  horses  to  ride  and 
to  carry  their  furs,  if^  they  should  collect  any.  But 
having  fallen  in  with  the  Crows,  and  after  being  over- 
powered by  numbers,  and  stripped  of  all  they  possessed, 
they  were  obliged  to  turn  back,  and  were  fortunate 
enough  to  reach  their  old  friends,  the  Snakes,  and  their 
old  companions  in  tribulation,  as  ragged  and  as  desti- 
tute as  the  latter,  who  had  been  surprised  by  the 
Blackfeet,  as  before  mentioned. 

When  Mr.  Reed  arrived  at  the  encampment,  where 
these  forlorn  adventurers  had  accidentally  met,  they 
were  making  arrangements  once  more  to  cross  the 
mountains.  After  Mr.  Reed  heard  their  several  stories, 
he  took  them  all  into  his  party,  and  set  out  for  the  Cal- 
dron Linn,  in  order  to  secure  the  goods  in  the  two  or 
three  caches  which  had  not  been  discovered  to  the  In- 


54 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i, 


11 -I' 


dians.  At  that  place  he  met  with  Robinson,  the  Ken- 
tucky veteran,  who,  with  his  two  comrades,  Rezner  and 
Hoback,  had  remained  there  when  Mr.  Stuart  went  on. 
Robinson  had  been  trapping  higher  up  the  river,  but 
had  come  down  in  a  canoe,  to  wait  the  expected  arrival 
of  the  party,  and  obtain  horses  and  equipments. 

Mr.  Reed  took  up  the  remainder  of  the  goods  from 
the  caches,  and  returned  in  safety  to  M'Kenzie's  post, 
on  the  Shahaptan. 

After  the  departure  of  the  different  detachments,  or 
brigades,  as  they  are  called  by  the  fur  traders,  the  Bea- 
ver prepared  for  her  voyage  along  the  coast,  and  her 
visit  to  the  Russian  establishment  at  New-Archangel, 
where  she  was  to  carry  supplies.  It  had  been  deter- 
mined in  the  council  of  partners  at  Astoria,  that  Mr. 
Hunt  should  embark  in  this  vessel  for  the  purpose  of 
transacting  certain  business  with  the  commander  of  the 
Russian  po.«!t,  and  to  acquaint  himself  with  the  coast- 
ing trade,  and  be  returned  in  October,  at  Astoria,  by  the 
Beaver,  on  her  way  to  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  Canton. 

The  Beaver  put  to  sea  in  the  month  of  August.  Her 
departure,  and  that  of  the  various  brigades,  left  the 
little  fortress  of  Astoria  but  slightly  garrisoned.  This 
was  soon  perceived  by  some  of  the  Indian  tribes,  and 
the  consequence  was,  increased  insolence  of  deport- 
ment, and  a  disposition  to  hostility.  Fortunately,  the 
Chenooks  and  the  other  adjacent  tribes  manifested  a 
more  pacific  character.  Old  Comcomly,  who  held 
sway  over  them,  was  a  shrewd  calculator.  He  was 
aware  of  the  advantage  of  having  the  whites  as  neigh- 
bours and  allies,  and  of  the  benefit  to  be  derived  from 
acting  as  intermediate  traders  between  them  and  the 
more  remote  tribes.  He  was,  therefore,  a  firm  friend 
of  the  Astorians,  and  formed  a  kind  of  barrier  between 
them  and  the  hostile  intruders  of  the  north. 

The  summer  of  1812  passed  away  without  bringing 
with  it  any  hostilities  ;  and,  at  the  close  of  the  salmon 
season,  the  Neweetees  and  other  dangerous  visiters 
left  the  neighbourhood,  and  returned  to  their  own  lands. 


t 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


55 


3r  and 
nt  on. 
;r,  but 
arrival 

s  from 
3  post, 

tnts,  or 
e  Bear- 
nd  her 

tiangel, 

deter- 
lat  Mr. 
pose  of 
r  of  the 
B  coast- 
i,  by  the 
Canton. 
It.   Her 
left  the 
.    This 
jes,  and 

deport- 
ely,  the 
fested  a 
ho  held 
He  was 
IS  neigh- 
ed from 

and  the 
[TO  friend 

between 


To  provide  against  the  scarce  season,  the  shallop  was 
sent  up  to  the  Walamet,  where  her  crew  secured  an 
abundance  of  dried  meat,  which  was  sent  to  Astoria  for 
the  supply  of  the  garrison.  Thus  October  passed  away, 
but  without  the  return  of  the  Beaver.  November,  De- 
cember, and  January  followed,  and  still  no  tidings  were 
received  of  her.  Fearing  that  she  might  have  been 
wrecked  in  her  coasting  voyage,  or  that  she  had  been 
surprised  by  the  savages,  like  the  Tonquin,  M'Dougal 
became  despondent,  condemned  the  whole  enterprise, 
magnified  every  unfortunate  circumstance,  and  prophe- 
sied nothing  but  evil. 

While  in  this  state  of  gloom  and  fearful  forebodings, 
M'Kenzie  made  his  unexpected  appearance,  with  his 
very  countenance  presenting  an  index  to  a  whole  vol- 
ume of  misfortunes.  He  had  been  sadly  disappointed 
at  the  post  assigned  him  on  the  Shahaptan,  finding  the 
beaver  too  scarce  in  that  vicinity  to  warrant  the  contin- 
uance of  the  establishment ;  he  therefore  repaired  to 
the  post  of  Clark  to  hold  consultation.    While  the  two 

Partners  were  in  conference  in  Mr.  Clark's  wigwam, 
Ir.  John  George  M'Tavish,  a  partner  of  the  North- 
West  Company,  who  had  charge  of  the  rival  trading 
post  in  that  vicinity,  is  said  to  have  come  bustling  in 
upon  them.  He  was  the  bearer  of  unwelcome  tidings. 
Having  been  to  Lake  Winnepeg,  and  obtained  an  ex- 
press from  Canada,  containing  the  declaration  of  war 
between  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  and  Presi- 
dent Madison's  proclamation,  he  handed  the  last  docu- 
ment to  Messrs.  Clark  and  M'Kenzie.  He  also  told 
them  that  he  had  received  a  fresh  supply  of  goods  from 
the  other  side  of  the  mountains,  for  the  purpose  of  car- 
rying forward,  with  greater  vigour,  his  opposition  to  their 
establishment ;  and  to  crown  the  burden  of  his  warlike 
intelligence,  he  assured  them  that  the  Isaac  Todd,  an 
armed  vessel,  was  to  be  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia 
in  March,  to  secure  the  trade  of  the  river,  and  that  he 
was  ordered  to  join  her  there  at  that  time. 
The  recjipt  of  this  intelligence  determined  M'Ken- 


!"X 


56 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


zie.  He  immediately  returned  to  the  Shahaptan,  broke 
up  his  establishment,  deposited  his  goods  in  caches,  and 
set  off  without  delay  for  Astoria. 

The  intelligence  which  he  brought  completely  over- 
came M'Dougal.  He  held  a  council  with  M'Kenzie, 
and  it  was  determined  to  abandon  the  establishment  in 
the  course  of  the  following  spring,  and  return  across 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  Consequently,  all  trade  with 
the  natives  was  suspended,  and  the  stock  of  goods  on 
hand  was  reserved  tor  their  contemplated  journey.  But, 
lest  the  men  should  become  uneasy  and  disobedient, 
this  new  project  was  kept  a  secret. 

In  the  mean  time,  M*Kenzie  was  despatched  for  the 
purpose  of  apprizing  the  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clark  of 
their  determination,  that  they  might  be  in  readiness  to 
take  their  departure  at  the  same  time,  and  to  get  his 
goods  from  the  caches,  and  buy  horses  with  them,  and 

Srocure  provisions  and  other  necessaries  for  the  tour. 
['Kenzie  was  accompanied  by  two  of  the  clerks,  John 
Reed,  and  Mr.  Alfred  Seton,  of  New- York.  They 
embarked  in  two  canoes,  manned  by  seventeen  men, 
and  ascended  the  river  in  safety  until  they  arrived  at 
the  rapids,  where  Mr.  Reed  had  been  formerly  wound- 
ed, and  robbed  of  the  tin  box  of  despatches.  It  was 
known  that  Reed's  rifle  was  still  in  possession  of  these 
freebooters,  and  M'Kenzie  offered  to  cross  the  river 
and  demand  it,  if  any  one  would  accompany  him  ;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  imminent  danger  attending  such 
an  attempt,  two  of  the  men  stepped  forward.  In  a 
few  moments  they  were  on  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
and  entered  the  principal  lodge.  The  passage  into  the 
same  was  immediately  filled  after  them  by  a  rush  of 
Indians,  who  had,  previously  to  this  moment,  kept  out 
of  sight.  At  the  head  of  the  lodge  sat  the  old  chief, 
and  on  either  side  sat  a  large  number  of  Indians  wrap- 
ped in  their  buffalo  roles.  A  single  glance  convinced 
them  that  they  had  found  their  way  into  a  dangerous 
den,  and  that  a  retreat  was  impossible.  The  chief 
pointed  them  to  a  seat ;  they  sat  down :  a  pause  en- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


57 


3ver- 
nzie, 
sntin 
cross 

with 
is  on 

But, 
dient, 

or  the 

ark  of 

less  to 

ret  his 

m,  and 

e  tour. 

3,  John 
They 

I  men, 

Lved  at 

wound- 
t  was 

►f  these 
e  river 
;  and, 
f  such 
In  a 
e  river, 
into  the 
rush  of 
tept  out 
d  chief, 
is  wrap- 
»nvinced 
.ngerous 
le  chief 
Luse  en- 


sued ;  while  the  keen-eyed  warriors  gazed  in  astonish- 
ment upon  their  unwelcome  visiters.  FeeHng  the  peril 
of  their  situation,  M^Kenzie  directed  his  associates  to 
keep  their  eyes  on  the  chief  while  he  addressed  him, 
and,  if  he  should  give  any  sign  to  his  hand,  to  shoot 
him  and  make  for  the  door.  He  advanced,  and  offered 
the  pipe  of  peace  to  the  chief;  but  it  was  refused.  He 
then  explained  the  object  of  their  visit,  and  proposed 
to  give,  in  exchange  for  the  rifle,  two  blankets,  an  axe, 
some  beads,  and  tobacco. 

When  he  had  done,  the  chief  arose,  and  made  a 
speech  in  his  turn,  in  which  he  manifested  great  pas- 
sion ;  at  the  conclusion  of  which  it  was  evident  that  the 
savages  waited  only  a  signal  from  their  head,  when  they 
would  pounce  upon  and  devour  their  prey.  M'Kenzie 
and  his  comrades,  having  risen  to  their  feet  during  the 
speech  of  the  old  man,  cocked  their  rifles,  and  advanced 
toward  the  door :  the  savages,  being  thus  taken  by  sur- 
prise, fell  back  to  the  right  and  leu :  they  passed  out, 
and  reached  their  camp  in  safety,  without  tne  least  de- 
sire to  repeat  their  visit  to  their  grim  neighbours. 

The  next  day,  while  pursuing  their  voyage,  they  des- 
cried two  canoes,  filled  with  white  men,  coming  down 
the  river,  to  the  full  chant  of  a  set  of  Canadian  voya- 
geurs.  This  proved  to  be  a  brigade  of  North-Westers, 
headed  by  John  G.  M'Tavish,  bound  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia  River,  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Isaac 
Todd.  Both  parties  halted,  and  camped  together  for 
the  night.  It  was  said  that  they  separated  next  morn- 
ing on  the  best  of  terms,  having  renewed  their  former 
acquaintance  and  friendship. 

M'Kenzie  arrived  in  safety  at  his  former  station,  but 
found,  to  his  chagrin,  that  his  caches  had  been  disco- 
vered and  rifled  by  the  Indians.  He  was  now  in  a 
dilemma ;  for  his  whole  dependance  had  been  placed  on 
these  stolen  goods  to  purchase  horses  from  the  Indians. 
He  sent  men  in  all  directions  for  the  purpose  of  dis- 
covering the  thieves,  and  despatched  Air.  Reed  widi 
letters  to  the  Messrs.  Clark  and  David  Stuart. 

3* 


i 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 

The  resolution  announced  in  these  letters  was  re- 
jected by  both  Clark  and  Stuart,  and  the  design  of 
M'Dougal  to  abandon  an  enterprise  of  so  much  cost 
and  promise,  on  the  first  difficulty,  they  considered 
both  rash  and  pusillanimous.  They  made  no  arrange- 
ments, therefore,  for  leaving  the  country,  but  continued 
to  act  with  a  view  to  the  maintenance  of  their  new  and 
prosperous  establishments. 

When  the  regular  time  arrived  when  the  parlies  of 
the  interior  posts  were  to  rendezvous  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Wallah-wallah,  on  their  way  to  Astoria  with  their 
collections  of  peltries,  Mr.  Clark  packed  all  his  furs  on 
twenty-eight  horses,  and,  leaving  a  clerk  and  four  men 
to  take  charge  of  the  post,  departed  on  the  25th  of  May 
with  the  residue  of  his  force.  On  the  30th  he  arrived 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Pavion  and  Lewis  Rivers. 
Here  he  found  his  boats,  which  he  had  left  in  charge 
with  the  Nez  Perce  chief,  in  tolerable  repair ;  but  while 
the  necessary  repairs  were  making,  Mr.  Clark's  silver 
goblet,  out  of  which  he  drank,  was  stolen.  This  en- 
raged the  gentleman  to  that  degree  that  he  threatened 
to  hang  the  chief  if  it  was  not  restored.  The  succeed- 
ing night  an  Indian  was  caught  in  thj  act  of  bearing 
away  a  load  of  goods,  who  was,  on  the  morning  fol- 
lowing, tried,  and  promptly  executed,  notwithstanding 
the  intercessions  oi  his  friends,  and  the  advice  of  Mr. 
Clark's  own  associates.  This  rash  act  of  Clark  proved 
to  be  very  impolitic,  and  was  strongly  censured  by 
Messrs.  Stuart  and  M'Kenzie,  whom  he  met  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Wallah-wallah,  on  their  way  down  to  As- 
toria. Pursuing  their  journey  in  company,  they  ar- 
rived at  Astoria  on  the  12th  of  June. 

About  two  days  previously,  the  brigade  which  had 
been  quartered  in  the  Walamet  had  arrived  with  nu- 
merous packs  of  beaver,  the  results  of  a  few  months' 
trapping  on  that  river :  these  were  the  first-fruits  of  the 
enterprise,  gathered  by  men  who  were  as  yet  mere 
strangers  in  the  land ;  but  which  gave  substantial  proof 
that  the  facilities  afforded,  in  that  country,  for  the  ac- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


59 


rc- 
of 
cost 
;red 
ige- 
med 
and 
.  ■■*  * 

s  of 
Lhof 
their 
rs  on 
men 
May 
nrived 
ivers. 
barge 
while 
silver 
is  en- 
itened 
cceed- 
earing 
hg  fol- 
andmg 
of  Mr. 
proved 
red  by 
at  the 
to  As- 
ley  ar- 
ch bad 
vith  nu- 
ncionths' 
is  of  the 
Bt  mere 
,1  proof 
the  ac- 


cumulation of  wealth  were  very  abundant,  and  that  it 
required  only  time  and  proper  management  to  accom- 
plish all  that  had  been  fondly  anticipated. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  partners  at  Astoria  agree  to  abandon  the  country — ^Action  of  the 
British  and  American  governments  in  reference  to  the  new  settlement — 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  at  Astoria,  marries  the  daughter  of  an  Indian  chief- 
Anecdote— The  Beaver  makes  her  way  to  Chma,  leaving  Mr,  Hunt  on  the 
Sandwich  Islands— He  returns  to  Astoria — Wreck  of  the  Lark,  and  suffer- 
ings of  her  crew — The  furs  and  merchandise  belonging  to  Mr.  Astor  sold 
to  the  Norlh-West  Fur  Company— Arrival  of  a  British  sloop  of  war,  whose 
commander  takes  possession  of  the  establishment  at  Astoria  in  the  name 
of  his  British  Majesty — Treaty  between  the  United  States  and  Great 
Britain  as  to  the  occupancy  of  Oregon — Reflections. 

The  partners  found  Mr.  M'Dougal  in  all  the  bustle 
of  preparation  ;  having  about  nine  days  previously  an- 
nounced, at  the  factory,  his  intention  of  breaking  up  the 
establishment,  and  fixed  upon  the  1st  of  July  for  the 
time  of  departure.  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clark  were 
highly  displeased  with  his  rash  and  precipitate  con- 
duct, especially  in  coming  to  such  an  important  con- 
clusion without  their  knowledge  or  consent,  when  he 
knew  at  the  same  time  that  their  arrival  could  not  be 
far  distant.  Indeed,  the  whole  conduct  of  M'Dougal 
was  such  as  to  awaken  strong  doubts  of  his  loyal  devo- 
tion to  the  cause.  His  old  sympathies  witli  the  North- 
West  Conipany  seemed  to  have  revived.  He  had  re- 
ceived M'Tavish  and  his  party  as  friends  and  allies, 
who  came  as  spies  to  reconnoitre  the  state  of  affairs  at 
Astoria,  and  to  await  the  arrival  of  a  hostile  ship. 

They  might  have  been  obliged  to  leave  the  ground 
for  want  of  provision,  and  the  Chenooks  wanted  only  a 
signal  from  the  factory  and  they  would  have  driven 
them  away  as  intruders  and  enemies.  But  M'Dougal, 
on  the  contrary,  supplied  them  from  the  stores  of 
the  garrison,  and  had  gained  them  the  favour  of  the 
Indians  by  treating  them  as  friends.  M'Dougal  was 
sorely  disappointed  when  he  found  that  Messrs.  Stuart 


f  J 


60 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


and  Clark  had  determined  not  to  co-operate  with  him 
in  his  unmanly  project ;  and  because  horses  and  provi- 
sions had  not  been  provided,  it  was  then  too  late  to 
carry  forward  his  plans  until  another  year. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  non-arrival  of  the  annual  ship, 
and  the  apprehensions  entertained  of  the  loss  of  the 
Beaver  and  of  Mr.  Hunt,  had  their  effect  upon  the 
minds  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clark.  They  began  to 
listen  to  the  desponding  representations  of  M'Dougal 
and  M'Kenzie,  who  inveighed  against  their  situation  as 
desperate  and  forlorn  :  left  to  shift  for  themselves,  or 
perish  upon  a  barbarous  coast ;  neglected  by  those  who 
sent  them  there,  and  threatened  with  dangers  of  every 
kind.  In  this  way  they  were  brought  to  consent  to  the 
plan  of  abandoning  the  country  in  the  ensuing  year. 

About  this  time  M'Tavish  applied  at  the  factory  to 
purchase  a  small  supply  of  goods  wherewith  to  trade 
his  way  back  to  his  post  on  the  upper  waters  of  the 
Columbia,  having  waited  in  vain  for  the  arrival  of  the 
Isaac  Todd.  This  proposition  of  M'Tavish  brought 
on  a  consultation  among  the  partners,  and  it  was  finally 
determined  that  they  should  give  up  to  M'Tavish  the 
post  on  the  Spokan,  and  all  its  dependencies,  in 
consideration  of  which  they  were  to  receive  horses  and 
such  other  articles  as  might  be  most  acceptable  to  them 
in  their  contemplated  journey  across  the  mountains. 
The  merchandise  sold  to  him  amounted  to  eight  hun- 
dred and  fifty-eight  dollars. 

This  agreement  being  concluded,  the  partners  formed 
their  plans  for  the  year  to  come,  which  were  as  follows : 
Mr.  M'Dougal  was  to  continue  in  charge  of  Astoria 
with  forty  men.  David  Stuart  was  to  return  to  his 
former  post  on  the  Oakinagan,  and  Mr.  Clark  was  to 
spend  his  time  among  the  Flatheads,  and  they  were  all 
to  engage  in  collecting  as  many  furs  as  their  diminish- 
ed means  would  allow. 

Mr.  M'Kenzie  was  to  winter  in  the  abundant  valley 
of  the  Walamet,  from  whence  an  abundant  supply  oi 
provisions  could  at  all  times  be  sent  to  Astoria.    As 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 

there  were  more  clerks  on  hand  than  the  circumstances 
required,  three  of  them  were  permitted  to  engage  in 
the  service  of  the  North- West  Company.  Having  com- 
pleted these  arrangements,  the  four  partners,  on  the 
1st  of  July,  signed  a  formal  manifesto,  stating  the 
alarming  state  of  their  affairs,  from  the  non-arrival  of 
the  annual  ship,  the  apprehended  loss  of  the  Beaver, 
their  want  of  goods,  occ,  &c.  And  as,  by  the  16th 
article  of  the  company's  agreement,  the  enterprise 
might  be  abandoned  within  five  yeprs,  if  it  was  found 
unprofitable,  they  now  formally  announced  their  inten- 
tion to  do  so  on  the  Ist  of  June  of  the  ei? -uing  year, 
unless  in  the  interim  they  should  receive  the  necessary 
support  and  supplies  from  Mr.  Astor  or  the  block  > 
holaers,  with  orders  to  continue. 

This  instrument,  accompanied  by  private  letters  of 
similar  import,  was  delivered  to  Mr.  M'Tavish,  who 
departed  on  the  5th  of  July.  He  engaged  to  forv.  ird 
the  despatches  to  Mr.  Astor  by  the  usual  wintei  ex 
press  sent  over  land  by  the  North- West  Company. 
The  manifesto  was  signed  with  great  reluctance  by 
Messrs.  Clark  and  D.  Stuart,  whose  experience  by  lio 
means  justified  the  discouraging  account  given  oi  the 
internal  trade,  and  who  considered  the  main  difficuides 
of  exploring  an  unknown  and  savage  country,  and  of 
ascertaining  the  best  trading  and  trapping  grounds,  in 
a  great  measure  overcome.  They  were  overruled, 
however,  by  M'Dougal  and  M'Kenzie,  who,  having 
resolved  upon  abandoning  the  enterprise,  were  desirous 
of  making  as  strong  a  case  as  possible  1 3  excuse  their 
conduct  to  Mr.  Astor  and  to  the  world. 

While  difficulties  and  disasters  had  been  gathering 
about  Astoria,  the  mind  of  the  projeictor  of  the  enter- 
prise at  New- York  was  a  prey  ^.c  great  anxiety.  The 
ship  Lark  had  been  despatched  only  a  fortnight  when 
he  received  intelligence,  which  justified  all  his  appre- 
hensions of  hostilities  on  the  part  of  the  British.  The 
North- West  Company  had  presented  a  second  memo- 
lUl  to  that  government,  representing  Astoria  as  an 


62 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


American  establishment,  stating  the  vast  scope  of  its 
contemplated  operations,  magnifying  the  strength  of 
its  fortifications,  and  expressing  their  fears  that,  unless 
crushed  in  the  bud,  it  would  effect  the  downfall  of  their 
trade. 

Influenced  by  these  representations,  the  British  go- 
vernment ordered  the  frigate  Phoebe  to  be  detached  as 
a  convoy  for  the  armed  ship,  Isaac  Todd,  which  was 
ready  to  sail  with  men  and  munitions  to  form  a  new 
establishment.  They  were  to  proceed  together  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Columbia,  capture  or  destroy  whatever 
American  fortress  they  should  find  there,  and  plant  the 
British  flag  on  its  ruins. 

Informed  of  these  movements,  Mr.  Astor  lost  no 
time  in  addressing  a  second  letter  to  the  secretary  of 
state,  communicating  this  intelligence,  and  requesting 
it  might  be  laid  before  the  president :  as  no  notice, 
however,  had  been  taken  of  his  previous  letter,  he  con- 
tented himself  with  this  simple  communication,  and 
made  no  further  application  for  aid. 

Awakened  now  to  the  danger  that  menaced  the 
establishment  at  Astoria,  and  aware  of  the  importance 
of  protecting  this  foothold  of  American  commerce  and 
empire  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  the  government 
determined  to  send  the  frigate  Adams,  Captain  Crane, 
upon  this  service.  On  hearing  of  this  determination, 
Mr.  Astor  immediately  proceeded  to  fit  out  a  ship 
called  the  Enterprise,  to  sail  in  company  with  the 
Adams,  freighted  with  additional  supplies  and  rein- 
forcements for  Astoria. 

About  the  middle  of  June,  while  in  the  midst  of 
these  preparations,  Mr.  Astor  received  a  letter  from 
Mr.  R.  Stuart,  dated  at  St.  Louis,  confirming  the  intel- 
ligence of  his  safe  arrival,  and  of  Mr.  Hunt's  safe  ar- 
rival at  Astoria,  and  of  the  former  prosperity  of  the 
enterprise. 

This  flattering  intellisence  almost  overpowered  Mr. 
Astor.  "  I  feel  ready,"  said  he,  "  to  fall  upon  my 
knees  in  transports  of  gratitude." 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


63 


d  the 
ance 
and 

iment 
rane, 

lation, 
ship 
the 
rei  li- 
st of 
from 
intcl- 

ife  ar- 
f  the 


'  ■  At  the  same  time  he  heard  that  the  Beaver  had  suc- 
ceeded in  her  voyage  from  New-York  to  the  Columbia : 
this  was  an  additional  ground  of  hope  for  the  welfare 
of  the  little  colony.  The  post  being  thus  relieved,  and 
strengthened  with  an  American  at  its  head,  and  a  ship 
of  war  about  to  sail  for  its  protection,  the  prospect  for 
the  future  seemed  full  of  encouragement,  and  Mr. 
Astor  proceeded  with  fresh  vigour  to  fit  out  his  mer- 
chant ship. 

Unfortunately  for  Astoria,  this  bright  gleam  of  sun- 
shine was  soon  obscured.  Just  as  the  Adams  had 
received  her  complement  of  men,  and  the  two  vessels 
were  ready  for  sea,  news  came  from  Commodore 
Chauncey,  commanding  on  Lake  Ontario,  that  a  rein- 
forcement of  seamen  was  wanted  in  that  quarter. 
The  demand  was  urgent,  the  crew  of  the  Adams  was 
immediately  transferred  to  that  service,  and  the  ship 
was  laid  up.  ' 

Although  this  was  a  most  discouraging  circumstance, 
yet  Mr.  Astor  determined  to  send  the  Enterprise  to 
sea  alone,  and  let  her  take  her  chance  of  finding  her 
unprotected  way  across  the  ocean.  Just  at  this  time, 
however,  a  British  force  made  its  appearance  off  the 
Hook ;  and  the  port  of  New-York  was  effectually 
blockaded.  The  Enterprise  was,  consequently,  un- 
loaded and  dismantled,  and  Mr.  A.  was  obliged  to  com- 
fort himself  with  the  hope  that  the  Lark  had  reached 
Astoria  in  safety,  and  that,  aided  by  her  supplies,  and 
the  good  management  of  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  associates, 
the  little  colony  might  be  able  to  maintain  itself  until 
the  return  of  peace. 

We  will  now  return  to  Astoria ;  and  here  we  find 
Mr.  M'Dougal,  as  usual,  engaged  in  a  new  project. 
He  had  sought  the  hand  of  one  of  the  native  princesses, 
a  daughter  of  the  one-eyed  potentate  Comcomly, 
who  swayed  his  sceptre  over  the  fishing  tribe  of 
Cherooks,  and  was  in  fact  ;he  most  popular  and  pow- 
erful chief  ever  known  upon  the  Columbia  Kiver 
from  the  time  of  its  first  discovery  by  white  men. 


64 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


M'Dougal's  suit  prevailed,  and  after  the  preliminaries 
were  all  adjusted,  Comcomly,  with  his  fleet  of  canoes, 
bearing  the  royal  family,  and  his  band  of  warriors, 
crossed  over  to  Astoria,  on  the  20th  of  July,  and 
M'Dougal  was  put  in  possession  of  his  greasy  bride. 

The  writer  cannot  refrain  from  relating  an  anecdote 
concerning  M'Dougal  and  his  princess.  Some  time 
after  their  union  had  taken  place,  Mrs.  M'Dougal,  on 
seeing,  from  the  window  of  her  room  in  the  fort,  a 
large  swine  rolling  in  the  mire,  and  basking  in  the  sun, 
and  being  at  the  same  time,  according  to  outward 
appearances,  entirely  destitute  of  care  and  perplexity, 
called  out  to  her  loving  husband,  who  immediately 
obeyed  the  summons,  and  entered  the  presence  of  his 
beloved  ;  when,  having  inquired  after  her  commands, 
she  said  to  him,  "You  profess  to  be  a  great  chief;  but 
I  see  you  hard  at  work  every  day,  behind  the  counter 
and  at  the  desk,  and  your  time  is  so  fully  employed 
that  you  have  scarcely  time  to  eat  your  food,  or  to 
enjoy  the  society  of  your  wife  a  moment ;"  upon  this 
she  pointed  to  the  swine  in  the  puddle,  and  said,  "  See 
there,  that  is  tiie  true  chief ;  he  has  no  labour  to  per- 
form, like  a  slave  ;  when  hungry,  his  food  is  served  up, 
he  fills  himself,  he  then  lies  down  in  the  soft  mud, 
under  the  influence  of  the  warming  rays  of  the  sun, 
sleeps  and  takes  his  comfort."  "  That,  she  repeated, 
"  is  the  true  chief." 

Tlie  above  anecdote  was  related  to  me  by  my  old 
and  tried  friend,  Mr.  James  Birnie,  who  has  charge  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  trading  post  at  Astoria.  This  gen- 
tleman also  informed  the  writer,  that  Mrs.  M'Dougal 
was  still  living,  but  her  glory  had  departed,  as  she  was 
subsisting  upon  the  hospitality  of  her  Indian  friends, 
some  distance  up  the  Columbia. 

But  a  short  time  after  M'Dougal  had  consummated 
the  above-mentioned  matrimonial  contract,  and,  as  it  has 
been  said,  before  the  honeymoon  had  begun  to  wane, 
about  the  20th  of  August,  one  of  the  sons  of  Comcomly 
hurried  into  the  fort,  and  announced  a  ihip  at  the 


capt 
iniod 
the 
H 
but  i 
the 
here 
thou 

St. 

hopi^ 

furs 

Mr. 

his  s 


TEN  YEARSr  IN  OREGON. 


05 


nries 
koes, 
iors, 

and 
le. 

cdote 
time 
al,  on 
ort,  a 
e  sun, 
Ltward 
lexity, 
iiately 
of  his 
Bands, 
3f;but 
jounter 
iployed 
i,  or  to 
on  this 

"See 

to  per- 
ved  up, 
mud, 

le  sun, 

peated, 

my  old 
large  of 
lis  gen- 
Dougal 
she  was 
friends, 

mmated 
as  it  has 
to  wane, 
jmcomly 
at  the 


r 


mouth  of  the  river.  This  was  the  Albatross,  which  Mr. 
Hunt  had  chartered  at  the  Sandwich  Islands  to  bring 
him,  with  a  fev  su|  plies,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

The  circumst&iices  which  led  him  to  charter  this  ves- 
sel I  will  now  briefly  relate.  After  leaving  Astoria,  on 
the  4th  of  August,  1812,  as  before  related,  the  Beaver 
reached  New- Archangel  on  the  19th,  having  met  with 
nothing  worthy  of  note  on  her  voyage.  After  being 
detained  at  this  port  for  some  time,  they  sailed  to  St. 
Paul's,  in  the  vicinity  of  Kamschatka,  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  a  cargo  of  seal-skins.  Here  the  vessel 
was  standing  off  and  on,  while  the  skins  were  being 
brought  off  in  skin  boats ;  but  one  night,  while  Mr. 
Hunt  was  on  shore,  a  gale  arose,  and  the  ship  was 
obliged  to  put  to  sea,  and  did  not  reappear  until  the 
13th  of  November.  Mr.  Hunt  now  hurried  the  re- 
mainder of  the  cargo  on  board,  and  because  of  the 
injury  which  the  rigging  had  received  during  the  gale, 
and  the  fact  that  there  is  great  danger  in  approaching 
the  bar  at  the  muuth  of  the  Columbia  after  tne  winter 
storms  commence,  Mr.  Hunt  was  induced  to  run  down 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  arrived  at  Oahu  in  safety, 
where  the  ship  underwent  the  necessary  repairs,  and 
again  put  to  sea  on  the  1st  of  January,  1813,  leaving 
Mr.  Hunt  on  the  Islands.  The  Beaver  made  the  port 
of  Canton,  in  China,  according  to  directions,  where  the 
captain  received  the  letter  of  Mr.  Astor,  giving  him 
intormation  of  the  war,  and  directing  him  to  convey 
the  news  to  Astoria. 

He  wrote  a  reply,  refusing  to  comply  with  his  orders ; 
but  said  to  Mr.  Astor  that  he  would  remain  there  until 
the  return  of  peace,  and  then  return  home.  While 
here,  Captain  Sowle  was  offered  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars  for  the  furs  he  had  taken  on  board  at 
St.  Paul's ;  but,  unfortunately,  he  refused  this  offer, 
hoping  to  realize  more.  While  thus  holding  on,  the 
furs  fell  so  much  in  value,  that  he  borrowed  money  on 
Mr.  Aster's  account,  at  eighteen  per  cent.,  and  laid  up 
his  ship  for  the  return  of  peace.  ■. 


f 


'^mm 


M 


"W 


66 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


«fi. 


\ 


While  Mr.  Hunt  was  anxiously  awaiting  the  return 
of  the  Beaver,  the  Albatross  arrived  at  the  Islands  from 
China,  which  brought  the  first  tidings  of  the  war.  Mr. 
Hunt  was  no  longer  in  doubt  as  to  the  reason  of  the 
non-appearance  of  the  annual  ship ;  and  in  order  that 
Astoria  might  not  be  left  destitute,  he  chartered  the 
Albatross,  as  before  observed,  to  convey  him  to  the 
Columbia. 

When  he  arrived  at  Astoria,  he  was  surprised  and 
astonished  to  learn  that  the  partners  had  resolved  to 
abandon  the  establishment;  and  soon  found  that  mat- 
ters had  gone  so  far  that  it  would  be  of  no  avail  to  op- 
pose their  plans.  And  being  beset,  too,  with  all  the  dis- 
paraging accounts  which  had  been  communicated  to 
Mr.  Astor  concerning  the  interior  trade,  and  the  doubt- 
ful prospects  of  the  whole  concern,  and  as  his  own  ex- 
perience had  been  fu^'  of  perplexities  and  discourage- 
ments, he  was  brought,  by  degrees,  to  acquiesce  in  the 
step  taken  by  his  colleagues,  as  perhaps  advisable  in 
the  exigencies  of  the  case.  His  only  care  was  to  wind 
up  the  business  with  as  little  further  loss  to  Mr.  Astor 
as  possible.  A  large  stock  of  furs  was  collected  at  the 
factory,  which  it  was  necessary  to  get  to  a  market. 
There  were  twenty-five  Sandwich  Islanders,  who  were, 
according  to  contract,  to  be  returned  to  the  Islands; 
and  as  the  Albatross  was  bound  to  the  Marquesas,  and 
thence  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  it  was  resolved  that 
Mr.  Hunt  should  sail  in  her  in  quest  of  a  vessel,  and, 
if  possible,  return  by  the  1st  of  Januaiy,  bringing  with 
him  a  supply  of  provisions. 

Should  anything,  however,  occur  to  prevent  his  re- 
turn, an  arrangement  was  to  be  proposed  to  Mr.  M'Ta- 
vish  to  transfer  such  of  the  men  as  were  so  disposed 
from  the  service  of  the  American  Fur  Company  into 
that  of  the  North- West,  the  latter  becoming  responsible 
for  the  wages  due  them,  on  receiving  an  equivalent  in 
goods  from  the  storehouse  of  the  factory.  As  a  means 
of  facilitating  the  business,  Mr.  M'Dougal  proposed 
that,  in  case  Mr.  Hunt  should  not  return,  me  whole  ar- 


1 


■  wjfnv":* 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


m 


rangement  with  Mr.  M'Tavish  should  be  left  with  him- 
self. This  proposition  was  assented  to.  All  these  mat- 
ters being  arranged,  Mr.  Hunt  sailed  in  the  Albatross  on 
the  26th  of  August,  and,  without  accident,  arrived  at 
the  Marquesas  just  before  Porter  made  that  port  in  the 
frigate  Essex,  with  a  prize  of  London  whalers. 

From  Commodore  Porter  he  received  the  intelligence 
that  the  British  frigate  Phoebe,  with  a  store-ship,  mount- 
ed with  battering  pieces,  calculated  to  attack  forts,  had 
arrived  at  Rio  Janeiro,  where  she  had  been  joined  by 
the  sloops  of  war  Cherub  and  Racoon,  and  that  they 
had  all  sailed  in  company  on  the  6th  of  July  for  the 
Pacific,  bound,  as  it  was  supposed,  for  the  Columbia 
River. 

Mr.  Hunt  considered  this  the  death-warrant  of  unfor- 
tunate Astoria  ;  and,  in  much  perplexity  of  spirit,  en- 
deavoured to  make  an  arrangement  with  the  commodore 
to  bring  off  the  property  of  Mr.  Astor,  but  without 
success.  He  obtained  this  officer's  promise,  however, 
that,  if  possible,  he  would  intercept  or  anticipate  the 
enemy. 

In  this  state  of  suspense,  Mr.  Hunt  was  detained  at 
the  Marqresas  until  the  23d  of  November,  when  he 
proceeded  in  the  Albatross  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
He  had  still  hoped  that  the  annual  ship  would  be  found 
here  ;  but  alas  for  the  Lark !  for,  notwithstanding  she 
reached,  in  safety,  within  a  few  degrees  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  here  a  gale  sprang  up,  in  the  fury  of 
which  she  "  broached  to,"  when  two  waves  completely 
upset  her.  The  masts  and  rigging  were  cut  away, 
but  she  was  left  a  mere  hull,  full  of  water.  After  the 
gale  had  measurably  subsided,  they  rigged  a  temporary 
stage,  on  which  the  crew  raised  themselves  above  water, 
and  in  this  way,  suffering  beyond  description  from  ex- 
posure, hunger,  and  thirst,  and  after  losing  the  first 
mate  and  four  seamen,  on  the  21st  they  descried,  to 
their  great  transport,  a  canoe  approaching,  managed  by 
natives.  From  them  they  obtained  a  very  welcome 
supply  of  potatoes.    The  second  mate  went  on  shore 


m 


68 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


in  the  canoe  to  procure  help  to  tow  the  wreck  into  har- 
bour, but  neither  help  nor  men  returned.  The  next 
day  ten  or  twelve  canoes  came  alongside,  but  rendered 
no  aid.  They  all  now  abandoned  the  ship,  got  into  the 
canoes,  and  reached  the  land  at  no  great  distance.  As 
soon  as  they  touched  the  beach  they  were  surrounded 
#  by  natives,  who  stripped  them  almost  naked.  The 
name  of  this  inhospitable  island  was  Tahoorowa. 

In  the  course  of  the  night  the  wreck  came  drifting 
to  the  strand,  with  the  surf  thundering  around  her,  and 
shortly  afterward  bilged.  The  natives  would  not  allow 
the  seamen  to  help  themselves  to  the  provisions  which 
floated  on  shore,  neither  were  they  allowed  to  go  on 
board  of  the  wreck.  Mr.  Ogden  made  his  way  to  the 
Island  of  Owyhee,  and  endeavoured  to  make  some  ar- 
rangements with  Kamdhamaha,  the  king  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  for  the  relief  of  his  companions  in  mis- 
fortune. The  king  agreed  to  furnish  the  crew  with 
provisions  during  their  stay  in  his  territories,  and  to  re- 
turn to  them  all  their  clothing  that  could  be  found  ;  but 
he  stipulated  that  the  wreck  should  be  abandoned  to 
him  as  a  waif  cast  by  fortune  upon  his  shores.  With 
these  conditions  Mr.  Ogden  was  fain  to  comply.  Upon 
this  the  OTeat  Tomahamaha  deputed  his  favourite  John 
Young,  the  tarpaulin  governor  of  Owyhee,  to  proceed 
with  a  number  of  the  royal  suards,  and  take  possession 
of  the  wreck  on  behalf  of  the  crown.  This  was  done 
accordingly,  and  the  property  and  crew  were  removed 
to  Owyhee.  The  royal  bounty  appears  to  have  been 
but  scanty  in  its  dispensations.  The  crew  fared  but 
meagerly ;  though,  on  reading  the  journal  of  the  voy- 
age, it  is  singular  to  find  them,  after  all  the  hardships 
they  had  suffered,  so  sensitive  about  petty  inconveni- 
ences as  to  exclaim  against  the  king  as  a  "  savage 
monster,"  for  refusing  them  a  "  pot  to  cook  in,"  and 
denying  Mr.  Ogden  the  use  of  a  knife  and  fork  which 
bad  been  saved  from  the  wreck. 

Such  was  the  unfortunate  catastrophe  of  the  Lark. 
Had  she  reached  her  destination  in  safety,  affairs  at 


I 


part 
of  clj 
Isaac 
way 
ClarJ 
broui 
Ml 

So, 

the  n{ 

corui 

their 


the 


savage 


» 


which 


'i 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


69 


Astoria  might  have  taken  a  different  course.  A  strange 
fatality  seems  to  have  attended  all  the  expeditions  by 
sea,  and  those  by  land  were  not  much  less  disastrous. 

Captain  Northrop  was  still  at  the  Sandwich  Islands 
when  Mr.  Hunt  arrived  on  the  20th  of  December, 
The  latter  immediately  purchased,  for  ten  thousand  dol- 
lars, a  brig  called  the  Pedlar,  and  put  Captain  Northrop 
in  command  of  her.  They  set  sail  for  Astoria  on  the 
22d  of  January,  intending  to  remove  the  property  from 
thence  to  the  Russian  settlements  on  the  north-west 
coast,  to  prevent  it  from  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
British.  Such  were  the  orders  of  Mr.  Astor  sent  out 
by  the  Lark. 

We  will  now  leave  Mr.  Hunt  on  his  voyage,  and  re- 
turn to  see  what  has  taken  place  at  Astoria  during  his 
absence.  On  the  2d  of  October,  about  five  weeks  after 
Mr.  Hunt  had  sailed  in  the  Albatross  from  Astoria,  Mr. 
M*Kenzie  set  off  with  two  canoes  and  twelve  men  for 
the  posts  of  Messrs.  Stuart  and  Clark,  to  apprize  them 
of  tne  new  arrangements  determined  upon  in  the  secret 
conference  of  the  partners  at  the  factory. 

He  had  not  ascended  the  river  a  hundred  miles  when 
he  met  a  squadron  of  ten  canoes  sweeping  merrily 
down  under  British  colours,  the  Cana  lian  oarsmen,  as 
usual,  in  full  song.  This  proved  to  be  an  expedition 
fitted  out  by  Mr.  M'Tavish,  with  Mr.  Stuart,  another 
partner  of  the  North- West  Company,  and  a  number 
of  clerks.  They  had  heard  of  the  Phoebe  and  the 
Isaac  Todd  being  on  the  high  seas,  and  were  on  their 
way  to  await  their  arrival.  In  one  of  the  canoes  Mr. 
Clark  came  passenger,  the  alarming  intelligence  having 
brought  him  down  from  his  post  on  the  Spokan. 

M'Kenzie  determined  to  return  to  Astoria  with  them. 
So,  veering  about,  the  two  parties  camped  together  for 
the  night.  The  leaders,  of  course,  observed  a  due  de- 
corum ;  but  some  of  the  subalterns  could  not  restrain 
their  chuckling  exultation,  boasting  that  they  would 
soon  plant  the  British  standard  on  the  walls  of  Astoria, 
and  drive  the  Americans  out  of  the  country.    In  a 


m^ 


i,r«!i 


70 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


secret  conference  held  between  Clark  and  M'Kenzie, 
they  agreed  to  steal  a  march  on  the  other  party,  and 
get  down  in  time  to  apprize  M'Dougal  of  the  approach 
of  these  North- Westers.  The  latter,  however,  were 
completely  on  the  alert :  just  as  M'Kenzie's  canoes 
were  pushing  off,  they  were  joined  by  a  couple  from 
the  North- West  squadron,  in  which  was  M'Tavish, 
with  two  clerks  and  eleven  men.  With  these  he  in- 
tended to  push  forward  and  make  arrangements,  leaving 
the  rest  of  the  convoy,  in  which  was  a  large  quantity 
of  furs,  to  await  his  orders. 

The  two  parties  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  7th  of  Oc- 
tober. The  North- Westers  encamped  under  the  guns 
of  the  fort,  and  displayed  the  British  colours.  The 
young  men  in  the  wrt,  "  native  Americans,"  were  on 
the  point  of  hoisting  the  American  flag,  but  ivere  for- 
bidden by  ATDougal !  The  young  men  were  astonish- 
ed at  this  prohibition,  and  were  exceedingly  galled  by 
the  tone  and  manner  assumed  by  the  clerks  and  re- 
tainers of  the  North- West  Company,  who  ruffled  about 
in  that  swelling  and  braggart  style  which  grows  up 
among  these  heroes  of  the  wilderness.  They,  in  fact, 
considered  themselves  lords  of  the  ascendant,  and  re- 
garded the  hampered  and  harassed  Astorians  as  a  con- 
quered people. 

On  the  following  day  M'Dougal  convened  the  clerks, 
and  read  to  them  an  extract  of  a  letter  from  his  uncle, 
Mr.  Angus  Shaw,  one  of  the  principal  partners  of  the 
North- West  Company,  announcing  the  coming  of  the 
Phoebe  and  the  Isaac  Todd,  "to  take  and  destroy 
everything  American  on  the  North-West  coast." 

This  intelligence  was  received  without  d"imay  by 
such  of  the  clerks  as  were  "  native  Americans."  They 
had  felt  indignant  at  seeing  their  national  flag  struck  by 
a  Canadian  commander,  and  the  British  flag  flying,  as 
it  were,  in  their  faces.  They  had  been  stung  to  the 
quick,  also,  by  the  vaulting  airs  assumed  by  the  North- 
Westers.  In  this  mood  of  mind  they  would  willingly 
have  nailed  their  colours  to  the  staff,  and  defied  the  frigate. 


wai 

pel 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


71 


She  could  not  come  within  many  miles  of  the  fort,  as 
they  supposed,  and  any  boats  she  might  send  could  be 
destroyed  by  their  cannon.  The  cool  and  calculating 
spirits,  however,  at  the  head  of  affairs,  felt  nothing  of 
the  patriotic  spirit  of  indignation  which  characterized 
these  young  men,  and  every  true  American,  when  an 
insult  is  offered  by  the  retainers  of  any  foreign  despot. 
The  extract  of  the  letter  had,  apparently,  been  read  by 
M'Dougal  merely  to  prepare  the  way  for  a  preconcert- 
ed stroke  of  management.  On  that  same  day  M'Tavish 
Eroposed  to  purchase  the  whole  stock  of  goods  and  furs 
elonging  to  the  company,  both  at  Astoria  and  at  the 
interior  posts,  at  cost  and  charges.  M'Dougal  under- 
took to  comply,  assuming  the  whole  management  of  the 
negotiation  in  virtue  of  the  power  vested  in  him  in  case 
of  the  non-arrival  of  Mr.  Hunt.  That  power,  however, 
was  limited  and  specific,  and  did  not  extend  to  such  an 
extensive  operation.  No  objection,  however,  was  made 
to  his  assumption ;  and  he  and  M'Tavish  soon  made  a 
preliminary  arrangement,  perfectly  satisfactory  to  the 
latter. 

Mr.  Stuart  and  the  reserve  party  of  North- Westers 
arrived  shortly  afterward,  and  encamped  with  M'Ta- 
vish. The  former  exclaimed  loudly  against  the  terms 
of  the  arrangement,  and  insisted  upon  a  reduction  of 
the  prices.  New  negotiations  had  now  to  be  entered 
into ;  and  to  say  nv  more  of  the  peremptory  tone  as- 
sumed, and  the  insults  offered,  by  the  North- Westers, 
notwithstanding  they  were  completely  at  the  mercy  of 
the  inmates  of  the  fort,  the  terms  of  sale  were  lowered 
by  M'Dougal  to  the  standard  fixed  by  Mr.  Stuart,  and 
an  agreement  executed  on  the  16th  of  October,  by 
which  the  furs  and  merchandise  of  all  kinds  in  the 
country  belonging  to  Mr.  Astor  passed  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  North- West  Company,  at  about  a  tnird  of 
their  real  value. 

Not  quite  $40,000  were  allowed  for  furs  worth  up- 
ward of  $100,000.  Beaver  was  valued  at  two  dollars 
per  skin,  though  worth  five  dollars ;  land  otter  at  fifty 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


cents,  though  worth  five  dollars ;  sea  otter  at  twelve 
dollars,  worth  from  forty-five  to  sixty  dollars  ;  and  for 
several  kinds  of  furs  nothing  was  allowed.  The  goods 
and  merchandise  for  the  Indian  trade  ought  to  have 
brought  three  times  the  amount  for  which  they  were  sold. 

The  North- West  Company  also  guarantied  to  such 
as  did  not  choose  to  enter  into  the  service  of  that  com- 
pany, a  safe  passage  through  all  their  posts  in  the 
interior,  and  the  amount  of  wages  due  them  was  to  be 
deducted  from  the  price  paid  for  Astoria. 

M'Dougal  did  not  satisfy  Mr.  Astor  in  reference  to 
the  integrity  of  his  conduct,  in  thus  abandoning  the 
enterprise,  and  disposing  of  the  property,  as  will  appear 
by  an  extract  from  a  letter  written  by  that  gentleman 
to  Mr.  Hunt.  "  Had  our  place  and  our  property,"  said 
he,  "  been  fairly  captured,  I  should  have  preferred  it. 
I  should  not  feel  as  if  I  were  disgraced." 

Shortly  after  concluding  the  above  agreement, 
M'Dougal  became  a  member  of  the  North- West  Com- 
pany, and  received  a  share  productive  of  a  handsome 
income. 

On  the  morning  of  the  30th  of  November  a  sail  was 
descried  doubling  Cape  Disappointment.  It  came  to 
anchor  in  Baker's  Bay,  and  proved  to  be  a  ship  of  war; 
and,  for  fear  that  it  might  prove  to  be  an  American 
vessel,  M'Tavish  loaded  two  barges  with  all  the  pack- 
ages of  furs  bearing  the  mark  of  the  North- West 
Company,  and  made  off  for  Tongue  Point,  three  miles 
up  the  river. 

In  the  mean  time  M'Dougal,  who  still  remained 
nominal  chief  at  the  fort,  on  his  way  to  the  ship 
instructed  his  men,  who  were  recently  in  the  employ 
of  the  American  Fur  Company,  to  pass  themselves 
off  for  Americans  or  Englishmen,  according  to  the 
exigencies  of  the  case. 

The  vessel  proved  to  be  the  British  sloop-of-war 
Racoon,  of  twenty-six  guns,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty  men,  commanded  by  Captain  Black.  This 
vessel  had  sailed  from  Rio  Janeiro  in  company  with 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


73 


lined 

ship 

»ploy 

lelves 

the 

If-war 
and 
This 
with 


the  Phoebe  and  Cherub,  as  a  convoy  to  the  Isaac  Todd. 
Mr.  John  M'Donald,  partner  of  the  North- West  Com- 
pany, had  taken  passage  on  board  of  the  Phoebe,  to 
profit  by  the  anticipated  catastrophe  at  Astoria. 

But  as  the  convoy  had  been  separated  by  stress  of 
weather  oiF  Cape  Horn,  and  as  nothing  had  been 
heard  of  the  Isaac  Todd  afterward,  and  as  intelHgence 
was  received  of  the  mischief  that  Commodore  Porter 
was  doing  among  the  whale  ships,  Commodore  Hillyer 
ordered  the  Racoon  to  the  Columbia,  while  the  other 
two  went  in  search  of  Porter. 

The  officers  of  the  Racoon  were  in  high  spirits. 
The  agents  of  the  North- West  Company,  in  instigating 
the  expedition,  had  talked  of  immense  booty  to  be 
secured  by  the  fortunate  captors  of  Astoria.  Mr. 
M'Donald  had  kept  up  the  excitement  during  the 
voyage,  so  that  there  was  not  a  little  midshipman  on 
board  but  was  ready  to  burst  with  hopes  of  ob- 
taining sacks  of  prize-money,  nor  a  lieutenant  but  felt 
his  importance,  if  possible,  more  than  ever,  when  he 
dreamed  of  the  treasures  which  they  would  bear  home 
to  old  England,  and  throw  down  at  the  feet  of  their 
wives  and  sweethearts.  But  when  there  is  not  a  suffi- 
cient allowance  made  for  '^shrinkage"  as  one  observed, 
we  are  apt  to  shrink  in  our  dimensions  when  we  fail  in 
realizing  a  consummation  of  our  fond  and  long-cherished 
hopes.  It  was  so  in  this  case  with  the  "  lieutenants" 
and  "  middies,"  when  they  learned  that  their  warlike 
attack  upon  Astoria  had  been  forestalled  by  a  snug 
commercial  arrangement,  and  that  their  anticipated 
booty  had  become  British  property  in  the  regular  course 
of  traffic;  and  that  all  this  had  been  effected  by  the 
very  company  which  had  been  instrumental  in  getting 
them  sent  on  what  they  now  stigmatized  as  a  fool's 
errand.  The  captain  himself  felt  so  indignant  on  find- 
ing that  they  had  been  so  completely  duped  and  fooled 
by  a  set  of  shrewd  men  of  traffic,  that  we  may  reason- 
ably conclude  that  he  shrunk  away  to  the  common  size 
of  an  ordinary  "Jonathan."  ;> 


...  i^i'.'— 


■  m 


74 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


In  a  word,  M'Dougal  found  himself  so  ungraciously 
received  by  his  countrymen  on  board  the  ship,  that  he 
was  glad  to  cut  short  his  visit  and  return  to  shore.  He 
was  busy  at  the  fort,  making  preparations  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  captain  of  the  Racoon,  when  his  one-eyed 
father-in-law  made  his  appearance,  with  a  train  of  Che- 
nook  warriors,  all  painted  and  equipped  in  warlike 
style. 

Old  Comcomly  had  beheld  with  dismay  the  arrival 
of  a  "  big  war  canoe,"  displaying  the  British  flag;  and 
having  learned  something  of  politics  by  his  daily  visits 
at  the  fort,  he  knew  of  the  war  existing  between  the 
nations,  but  knew  nothing  of  the  arrangements  between 
M'Dougal  and  M'Tavish.  He  trembled  therefore  for 
the  power  of  his  white  son-in-law,  and  the  glory  of  his 
daughter,  and  assembled  his  warriors  in  all  haste. 
"  King  George,"  said  he,  "  has  sent  his  great  canoe  to 
destroy  the  fort,  and  make  slaves  of  all  the  inhabitants. 
Shall  we  suffer  it?  The  Amftricans  are  the  first  white 
men  that  have  fixed  themselves  in  the  land.  They  have 
treated  us  as  brothers.  Their  great  chief  has  taken  my 
daughter  to  be  his  squaw.  We  are  therefore  as  one 
people." 

His  warriors  all  determined  to  stand  by  the  Americans 
to  the  last,  and  to  this  effect  they  came  painted  and 
armed  for  battle.  Comcomly  made  a  spirited  war 
speech  to  his  son-in-law ;  and  offered  to  kill  every  white 
man  from  King  George's  ship  that  should  attempt  to 
land,  which  would  be  an  easy  matter,  as  the  ship  could 
not  reach  the  shore  by  a  considerable  distance ;  and  as 
the  crew  would  be  obliged  to  land  in  boats,  the  old 
chief  could  lay  concealed  in  the  thicket  on  shore,  and 
cut  them  all  off  as  soon  as  they  landed. 

But  what  must  have  been  the  astonishment  of  the  old 
warrior  when  M'Dougal  advised  him  and  his  men  to  lay 
aside  their  arms  and  war  dress,  and  wash  off  the  paint 
from  their  faces  and  bodies,  and  appear  like  clean  and 
peaceable  savages  to  receive  the  strangers  courte- 
ously ;  for  notwithstanding  the  ship  belonged  to  King 


4 
J 


m 


c 

th 

of 

M 

asi 

tha 

8ai< 

gul 

of  1 

gav( 

retu 

theii 

Ai 

Cap! 

with 

heen 

of  th( 

porta? 

bastio 

hefel 

somet 
he, 

"  Whj 

in  two 
of  the 
hands 
insistir 
proper 
to  ulte; 
the  val 
howev( 
claim ; 
the  ide 
coadjut 
Ont( 
summal 
attended 
British 


.,   ...._   ..:*& 

TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


76 


rival 
and 
/isits 
\  the 
ween 
re  for 
of  his 
haste, 
noe  to 
itants. 
i  white 
y  have 
.en  my 
as  one 

jricans 

led  and 

jd  war 

■white 
Anpt  to 
[p  could 

and  as 
the  old 
)re,  and 

."  the  old 
m  to  lay 
the  paint 
Tlean  and 
couTte- 
to  King 


I 


George,  her  crew  would  not  injure  the  Americans  or 
their  Indian  allies. 

This  was  so  contrary  to  the  old  chieftain's  notions 
of  receiving  a  hostile  nation,  that  it  was  only  after 
M'Dougal  repeated  in  the  most  positive  manner  the 
assurances  of  the  amicable  intentions  of  the  strangers, 
that  he  was  induced  to  lower  his  fighting  tone.  He 
said  something  to  his  warriors  explanatory  of  this  sin- 
gular posture  of  affairs,  and  in  vindication,  perhaps, 
of  the  pacific  character  of  his  son-in-law.  They  all 
gave  a  shrug,  and  an  Indian  grunt  of  acquiescence,  and 
returned  in  a  sulky  mood  to  their  village,  to  lay  aside 
their  weapons  for  the  present. 

As  soon  as  the  proper  arrangements  were  made. 
Captain  Black  caused  his  boats  to  be  manned,  and  landed 
with  befitting  state  at  Astoria.  From  the  talk  that  had 
been  made  by  the  North- West  Company  of  the  strength 
of  the  place,  he  expected  to  find  a  place  of  some  im- 
portance. When  he  beheld  nothing  but  stockades  and 
bastions  calculated  for  defence  against  naked  savages, 
he  felt  an  emotion  of  indignant  surprise,  mingled  with 
something  of  the  ludicrous.  "  Is  this  the  fort,"  cried 
he,  "about  which  I  have  heard  so  much  talking?" 
"  Why,"  said  he,  adding  an  oath,  "  I'd  batter  it  down 
in  two  hours  with  a  four-pounder."  But  when  he  heard 
of  the  amount  of  rich  furs  that  had  been  passed  into  the 
hands  of  the  North- West  Company  he  was  outrageous, 
insisting  that  an  inventory  should  be  taken  of  all  the 
property  purchased  of  the  Americans,  with  a  view 
to  ulterior  measures  in  England  for  the  recovery  of 
the  value  from  the  North- Westers.  As  he  grew  cool, 
however,  he  relinquished  the  idea  of  preferring  such  a 
claim  ;  and  reconciled  himself,  as  well  as  he  could,  to 
the  idea  of  having  been  forestalled  by  his  bargaining 
coadjutors. 

On  the  12th  of  December  the  fate  of  Astoria  was  con- 
d  by  a  regular  ceremonial.     Captain  Black, 


summf 


* 


attendM  by  his  officers,  entered  the  fort,  caused  the 
British  standard  to  be  erected,  broke  a  bottle  of  wine, 


^S^.. 


■IT" 


iUbt 


7e 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


*, 


and  declared  in  a  loud  voice  that  he  took  possession  of 
the  establishnaent  and  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  his 
Britannic  Majesty,  changing  the  name  of  Astoria  to 
that  of  Fort  George.  - 

Although  this  was  explained  to  the  Indian  warriors 
as  being  a  friendly  arrangement  and  transfer,  yet  they 
shook  their  heads  grimly ;  and  could  not  be  persuaded 
that  their  ancient  allies  were  not  all  subjugated  to  a 
state  of  slavery,  until  they  beheld  the  Racoon  depart 
without  taking  away  any  prisoners. 

As  to  Comcomly,  he  no  longer  prided  himself  upon 
his  white  son-in-law ;  but,  whenever  he  was  asked 
about  him,  he  shook  his  head,  and  replied,  that  his 
daughter  had  made  a  mistake,  and,  instead  of  getting  a 
great  warrior  for  a  husband,  had  married  herself  to  a 
squaw. 

On  the  28th  of  February,  the  brig  Pedlar  anchored 
in  Columbia  River.  This  was  the  vessel  which  Mr. 
Hunt  had  purchased  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  to  take 
off  the  furs  collected  at  the  factory,  and  to  restore  the 
Islanders  to  their  home.  Mr.  Hunt  expressed  his 
indignation  in  the  strongest  terms  when  he  learned  in 
what  manner  M'Dougal  had  disposed  of  the  whole 
establishment,  and  determined  to  make  an  effort  to  get 
buck  the  furs.  As  soon  as  his  wishes  were  known  in 
this  respect,  M^Dougal  came  to  sound  him  on  behalf 
of  the  North- West  Company,  intimating  that  he  thought 
the  furs  might  be  purchased  at  an  advance  of  fifty  per 
cent.  This  overture  was  not  calculated  to  sooth  the 
angry  feelings  of  Mr.  Hunt,  and  his  indignation  was 
complete  when  he  discovered  that  M'fiougal  had 
actually  been  a  partner  of  the  North-West  Company 
smce  the  23d  of  December.  He  had,  notwithstanding, 
retained  the  papers  of  the  Pacific  Fur  Company  in  his 
possession,  ana  had  continued  to  act  as  Mr.  Aster's 
agent;  besides  divuldng  to  his  new  associates  all 
Mr.  Aster's  plans  of  operation,  and  copying  his 
business  letters  for  their  perusal !  Mr.  Huntf  with 
some  difficulty,  obtained  possession  of  the  papers  of 


m 


an( 
ent 
set 

lane 
vicii 
the< 
«nt  1 
nate 
Al 
couni 
Gher 
Captj 
Ontai 
Fo 
being 
in  the 
he  mi 
Th 
impor 
it  wii 
consej 
becon 
the 

treaty] 
the  qi 
the  c^ 
west\ 
nation] 
ten  yej 
of  navf 
expire 


■m 


l& 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


77 


of 
his 
,  to 

iors 
they 
ided 
to  a 
jpart 


;hored 
h  Mr. 
0  take 
re  the 
ted  his 
rued  in 

whole 
,  to  get 
own  in 

behalf 
thought 

ifty  per 
)oth  the 
ion  was 
gal  had 
ompany 
tanding, 
in  his 
Aster's 
ates    all 
ing    bis 
int,  with 
lapera  of 


the  concern,  and  brought  the  business  to  a  close  ;  re- 
mitted the  drafts  of  the  North- West  Company  in  Mr. 
Aster's  favour  to  him  by  some  of  his  associates  who 
were  about  to  cross  the  raountains,  and  embarked  on 
board  of  the  Pedlar  on  the  3d  of  April,  and  bade  a  final 
adieu  to  Astoria. 

The  next  day,  April  4th,  Messrs  Clark,  M'Kenzie, 
and  David  Stnart,  and  such  of  the  Astorians  as  had  not 
entered  into  the  service  of  tlie  North- West  Company, 
set  out  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

These  reluiu  parties  from  Astoria,  both  by  sea  and 
land,  experienced  on  the  way  as  many  adventures, 
vicissitudes,  and  mishaps,  as  the  far-famed  heroes  of 
the  Odyssey.  They  reached  their  destination  at  differ- 
ent times,  bearing  tidings  to  Mr.  Astor  of  the  unfortu- 
nate termination  of  his  enterprise. 

At  the  return  of  peace,  Astoria,  with  the  adjacent 
country,  reverted  to  the  United  States  by  the  treaty  of 
Ghent,  on  the  principle  of  status  ante  helium^  and 
Captain  Biddle  was  despatched  in  the  sloop  of  war 
Ontario  to  take  formal  repossession. 

For  Vcrious  reasons,  the  most  important  of  which 
being  the  supinencss  of  the  American  government  to  act 
in  the  premises,  when  solicited  to  do  so  by  Mr,  Astor, 
he  made  no  further  efforts  to  reoccupy  Astoria. 

The  British  government  soon  began  to  perceive  the 
importance  of  this  region,  and  to  desire  to  include 
it  within  their  territorial  domains.  A  question  has 
consequently  risen  as  to  the  right  of  the  soil,  and  has 
become  one  of  the  most  perplexing  new  open  between 
the  United  States  and  Great  Britain.  In  the  first 
treaty  relative  to  it,  under  date  of  October  20th,  1818, 
the  question  was  left  unsettled,  and  it  was  agreed  that 
the  country  on  the  north-west  coast  of  America, 
westward  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  claimed  by  either 
nation,  should  be  open  to  the  inhabitants  of  both  for 
ten  years,  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  with  equal  right 
of  naviffating  all  its  rivers.  When  these  ten  years  had 
expired,  a  subsequent  treaty,  in  1828,  extended  the 


n 


1 


.v.. 


l.tL 


78 


TEN  YEAR3  IN  OREGON. 


arrangement  to  ten  additional  years.     So  the  matter 
stands  at  present. 

Having  recorded  all  the  leading  events  in  the  history 
of  the  Oregon  Territory,  from  the  time  that  the  north- 
west coast  was  discovered  by  Capt.  Cook  until  the 
overthrow  of  Mr.  Astor's  bold  and  enterprising  scheme 
to  colonize,  and  call  into  requisition  the  resources  of 
that  wilderness  region,  I  will  pass  on  without  any 
further  reflections  upon  the  subjects  just  treated,  except 
recording  my  regrets,  with  those  of  Washington  Irving 
and  others,  that  our  government  should  have  neglected 
the  overture  of  Mr.  Astor,  and  suffered  the  moment  to 
pass  by  when  full  possession  of  this  region  miffht  have 
been  taken  quietly,  as  a  matter  of  course,  and  a  mili- 
tary post  established,  without  dispute,  at  Astoria.  The 
second  period  of  ten  years  has  elapsed,  during  which 
the  powerful,  because  very  wealthy,  British  Fur  Com- 
pany has  monopolized  all  the  trade,  with  a  very  small 
exception,  (and,  consequently,  an  untold  amount  of 
w^ealth,  arising  therefrom,)  of  that  vast  country,  from 
California,  nay,  of  California  itself,  to  a  great  extent, 
and  from  that  to  Kamschatka.  What  profits  the 
Americans  have  derived  from  that  country  have  been  pro- 
cured by  great  toil ;  because,  when  they  reached  that 
coast,  they  found  themselves  unprotected,  and  goaded 
on  every  side  by  this  powerful  monopoly,  which  pos- 
sesses a  sinking  fund  of  two  millions  sterling,  if  the 
writer  has  been  correctly  informed,  for  the  express 
purpose  of  competing  with  every  vessel  that  may 
come  on  the  coast  for  the  purpose  of  trade.  And 
they  possess  not  only  the  means,  but  also  the  men, 
qualified  in  every  respect  for  the  accomplishment  of 
the  several  duties  assigned  them.  And  the  object  of 
this  "Honourable  Company"  is,  to  control  the  des- 
tinies of  the  whole  country,  as  far  as  they  maj  be  per- 
mitted so  to  do,  and  to  drain  it  of  its  last  farthing  of 
wealth ;  and  if  at  any  time  it  should  become  necessary 
for  them  to  take  up  their  traps,  and  vast  herds  and 
fiocks,  they  can  accomplish  this  as  expeditiously,  anj 


(wh 

sonr 

the 

as  t 

T 

ing 
mm 

i 

and 

4 

ar^i 
soil 

d 

ed  i 

TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i 


with  but  little  more  loss  than  M'Tavish  sustained  when 
he  packed  the  furs,  purchased  at  so  fine  a  lay  from 
"  Comcomly^s  white  son-in-law"  into  his  barges,  and 
scud  away  for  Tongue  Point.  For  they  have  their 
anticipated  head  quarters  ready  for  occupancy  at  any 
time,  on  Vancouver's  Island,  a  little  above  the  49th 
degree  of  north  latitude.  Their  vessels  are  ready  at 
short  notice,  by  which  to  convey  their  peltries,  goods, 
&c.,  and  their  Canadians,  ever  most  obedient  to  their 
superiors,  can  very  soon  drive  the  flocks  and  herds 
through  to  Nasqually,  (Puget  Sound,)  and  from  thence 
to  head  quarters.  And  what  will  they  be  obliged  to 
leave  behind?  Why  nothing  but  a  few  miserable 
buildings,  the  best  of  which  consist  of  posts  set  up, 
which  are  then  filled  in  with  slabs  from  the  saw-mill, 
sealed  up  in  the  inside,  in  a  very  rough  and  cheap 
manner.  And  if  there  should  be  a  more  important 
location,  such  as  that  at  the  Walamet  Falls,  for 
instance,  the  best  water  privilege  in  the  country,  then 
individuals  of  the  Honourable  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
mark  out  their  claims,  as  Doctor  John  M'Laughhn, 
the  "principal  agent  of  the  company  west  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains,"  has  done,  at  the  above-named  falls ; 
where  he  claims  a  mile  square  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  embracing  that  side  of  the  falls  which  is,  by 
far,  the  most  important  side.  There  he  has  a  saw- 
mill in  operation ;  and  there  a  company  of  Americans 
have,  also,  a  saw-mill  and  flouring-mill  in  operation, 
(which  are,  however,  claimed  by  the  doctor,  until 
some  government  shall  take  it  in  hand,  and  settle 
the  dispute  between  them  ;  the  two  mills  being  located, 
as  the  doctor  will  have  it,  upon  his  mile  square.) 

Upon  that  claim  the  above-named  gentleman  is  build- 
ing a  city,  and  was  selling  off  small  city  lots  at  one 
hundred  dollars  a  piece,  to  "  native  Americans,"  too, 
and  gives  them  a  good  warrant  deed  !  Does  not  this 
ar^ue  that  British  subjects  actually  possess  the  right  of 
soil  in  that  territory  ?  The  writer  was  credibly  inform- 
ed in  the  spring  of  1843,  while  at  the  Walamet  Falls, 


': '  :',  ,:i ' 


P  n^kn 


m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


IM 


that  the  doctor  had  just  sold  twenty  lots  at  the  above- 
named  price.  And  how  will  these  clain^s  be  disposed 
of  if  our  government  should  recover  full  possession 
there  ?  Why,  all  that  these  individuals  would  have  to 
do  would  be  simply  to  "  hoist  the  American  colours," 
and  proclaim  themf"^lves  American  citizens,  and  then 
"  they  would  be  all  right,"  and  might  continue  as  agents 
of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  in  carrying  forward 
their  lucrative  operations  still.  Thus  the  reader  may 
perceive  that  the  country  is  not  only  being  drained  of 
Its  wealth  by  the  removal  of  its  furs  and  skins,  and 
wheat  and  other  grains,  and  butter,  and  lumber,  to  Eng- 
land and  other  foreign  markets,  but  even  the  sail  itself 
is  being  disposed  of,  and  that  to  Americans  too,  in 
order  to  fill  the  already  overflowing  coffers  of  that  vast 
trading  establishment. 

And  are  the  gentlemen  of  that  company  blameworthy 
because  they  are  engaged,  heart  and  hand,  in  this  money- 
getting  business  ?  No,  not  in  the  least.  They  are,  on 
the  contrary,  worthy  of  ten  thousand  praises ;  for  a 
kinder  and  more  hospitable  company  of  gentlemen,  I 
doubt,  cannot  be  found  on  the  globe.  Never  will  the 
poor  wanderer  be  turned  from  their  doors  unfed  or  un- 
clothed ;  and  theu  many  acts  of  kindness  bestowed 
upon  the  writer  and  his  family  will  ever  lay  him  un- 
der obligations  to  love  and  respect  them.  But,  if  there 
is  any  blame  to  be  attached  to  any  one  because  of  the 
course  that  has  been,  and  is  being,  pursued  there,  at 
whose  door  must  it  lie  ?  No  doubt  it  must  lie  at  the 
door  of  our  government  at  Washington.  There  "  Uncle 
Sam"  has  been  smoking  and  dozing  over  the  subject, 
like  his  "  worthy  predecessor,"  "  Peter  Stuyvesandl," 
since  the  time  that  Captain  Biddle  was  despatched  in 
the  sloop  of  war  Ontario  to  take  repossession  of  Astoria. 
And  if,  at  any  time,  he  has  been  aroused  from  his  sweet 
repose,  it  has  only  been  effected  by  a  hunch  from  "  John 
Bull's"  elbow,  reminding  him  that  the  term  of  treaty 
had  expired,  and  that,  in  order  that  "  John'*  might  ap- 
ply his  "  muck  rake"  as  Bunyan  said,  with  renewed 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


81 


energy,  in  scraping  the  remaining  wealth  out  of  the 
country,  it  would  be  necessary  to  renew  it.  But  we 
will  leave  this  topic  to  be  discussed  by  the  able  poli- 
ticians of  ♦he  day,  and  will  now  proceed  to  give  a 
description  of  the  face  of  the  country.  '^ 


jwed 


.* 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Descriptioii  of  the  country — Columbia  River  and  its  tributanes — Annual 
Aoods — Vancouver — Multnomah  Island — Clatsop  Plain — Walamet  River 
and  Falls — Valleys — Plains — Productiveness  of  the  soil — Climate — Black* 
fish  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length — Whales — Epidemics. 

The  whole  of  the  north-west  coast  is  exceedingly 
mountainous  and  rugged,  with  dense  forests  of  fir,  hem- 
lock, spruce,  white-cedar,  cotton-wood,  ash,  elm,  dog- 
wood, black  alder,  crab,  Norway  pine,  and  a  species 
of  maple,  called  green-maple,  or  "  devil  wood,"  remark- 
able for  its  toughness.  This  is  the  principal  variety  of 
timber  to  be  found  on  the  coast;  but  as  we  pass  into 
the  interior,  the  white  oak,  and  white  ash,  and  a  very 
inferior  quality  of  soft  maple,  may  be  added  to  the 
above ;  the  white  and  yellow  pine  are  also  to  be  found 
in  the  interior.  The  red  fir  constitutes  the  greater  * 
part  of  the  timber  in  the  country,  which  is  a  very  in- 
ferior quality  of  timber,  being  of  no  more  value  than 
our  hemlock.  Its  growth,  however,  is  immense.  One 
of  these  trees,  the  dimensions  of  which  were  taken 
by  some  gentleman  of  the  exploring  expedition  which 
visited  the  Columbia  in  1841,  measured  forty-eight  feet 
in  circumference,  consequently  sixteen  feet  m  diameter. 

The  face  of  the  country,  in  general,  is  very  broken 
and  mountainous ;  and  many  of  the  mountains  are  of 
such  altitude,  that  when  in  the  valley  of  the  Walamet, 
the  eye  may  behold  theui  in  every  direction,  and  du- 
ring every  season  of  the  year,  towering  abcve  the 
clouds ;  and,  being  covered  with  perpetual  snow,  they 
present  the  scowling  aspect  of  changeless  winter. 

4* 


it 


L"*' 


k 


■-.ill,! 


f  vi  I 


■^ 


82 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGOiV. 


if^ 


\j 


. 


The  country  abounds  in  rivers  and  creeks,  and  as  the 
Columbia  andf  the  Walamet  Rivers  are  to  be  found 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  all  the  missionary  stations 
in  the  country,  and  as  the  greater  part  of  the  produce 
of  the  country  is  floated  down  upon  their  bosoms,  they 
demand  a  more  particular  description.  The  Columbia 
originates  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  being  augmented, 
as  it  pursues  its  downward  course,  by  many  tributaries, 
which  also  commence  their  devious  courses  in  the  same 
mountainous  region.  The  most  important  of  these  tri- 
butaries, among  which  are  the  M'Gillivray's,  Flathead, 
Oakinagan,  Spokan,  and  Snake  Rivers,  disgorge  their 
■waters  into  the  Columbia  before  it  reaches  Wallah-wallah, 
about  three  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  in  a  direct 
line,  or  nearly  due  east.  The  banks  of  the  Columbia 
are  generally  very  high  and  precipitous,  studded  in 
many  places  with  gigantic  pillars  oi  basaltic  rock,  all 
giving  evidence  of  having  passed  the  ordeal  of  fire  in 
ages  past.  There  are  to  be  found,  at  intervals,  narrow 
strips  of  low  land  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  which  are, 
however,  in  general  of  but  little  value,  when  considered 
with  reference  to  agricultural  purposes,  as  they  are  most- 
ly overflowed  by  the  swelling  of  the  river  in  the  months 
of  May  and  June — in  that  time  of  the  year  when  a 
||flood  must  inevitably  destroy  the  crops.  Th^.se  annual 
floods  are  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snows  n  the 
mountainous  regions  through  which  the  Columbia  and 
her  tributaries  pursue  their  serpentine  course,  as  the 
reader  may  discover  by  referring  to  the  map  which 
accompanies  this  work.  The  flats  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Vancouver,  and  on  the  Multnomah  Island,  which  island 
lies  on  the  Colu.noia  between  the  upper  and  lower 
mouths  of  the  Waiamet,  are  the  most  important ;  and 
a  considerable  portion  of  these  are  also  overflowed. 

Vancouver  is  situated  about  five  miles  above  the  upper 
mouth  of  the  Walamet,  and  nearly  one  hundred  miles 
from  the  coast  on  the  north  side  of  the  river.  .  The 
lower  mouth  of  the  Walamet  is  from  twelve  to  fifteen 
miles  below  the  upper  mouth :    between  these  two, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 

mouths,  as  before  observed,  lies  the  Multnomah  Island. 
From  this  to  the  coast  there  is  but  very  little  land 
that  is  fit  for  the  plough,  unless  some  of  our  "  down- 
easters"  should  see  fit  to  leave  the  mountain  homes 
of  their  fathers,  perform  the  toilsome  journey  across 
the  continent,  and  then  turn  to  and  clear  up  a  farm 
more  mountainous  than  those  they  left.  At  Astoria, 
now  called  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  Fort 
George,  the  original  Astorians,  or  their  successors, 
have  had  from  fifteen  to  twenty  acres  cleared  off,  and 
under  cultivation,  which  is  now  however  all  overgrown 
with  young  trees,  shrubs,  and  briers,  except  the  gardens 
of  the  gentleman  in  charge  of  that  trading  post.  Im- 
mediately upon  the  coast,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Columbia,  there  is  a  plain,  which  extends  to  Cape 
Lookout,  about  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  about  two 
and  a  half  miles  wide  in  the  widest  place.  This  is 
called  Clatsop  Plain,  of  which  more  particulars  will 
be  given  hereafter.  On  the  north  side  oi  the  river  there 
is  another  small  plain,  bounded  partly  by  the  Chenook 
River  and  Bay.  .This  river  empties  into  the  Pacific, 
a  little  to  the  north  of  Cape  Disappointment. 

The  Columbia  River  is  about  three  miles  in  width 
at  the  mouth,  between  Cape  Disappointment  on  the 
north  side  and  Point  Adams  on  the  south ;  and  about 
the  same  width  across  from  Astoria  to  Chenook  Point. 
At  Vancouver,  according  to  the  measurement  of  Mr. 
Gardner,  a  physician,  formerly  in  the  employ  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  it  is  1670  yards  in  width; 
and  the  width  continues  nearly  the  same  until  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Snake  River.  The  channel  is  remarkably 
crooked,  and  at  some  places  quite  narrow  ;  and  is  from 
five  to  nine  fathoms  deep  until  you  reach  Vancouver. 

A  more  accurate  description  of  the  Columbia  may  be 
expected  in  the  journal  of  the  United  States  exploring 
expedition,  who  took  surveys  of  that  region  in  the  year 
1841,  if  "Uncle  Sam"  should  happen  to  wake  up,  and 
keep  awake  long  enough  to  publish  it,  before  our  readers 
are  all  dead  and  forgotten.  ,. 


H   li 


I/i^^i 


''"i^^.  Vx%,. 


84 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


The  Walamet  River  heads  in  about  43°  of  nortl'. 
latitude,  and  empties  into  the  Columbia  about  ninety- 
five  miles  from  the  coast ;  and  its  direction  is  in  general 
from  south-east  to  north-west.  Its  greatest  width,  near 
the  Multnomah  Island,  is  a  full  half-mile  ;  but  as  you 
ascend  it,  the  width  diminishes  rapidly.  The  tide  flows 
up  it  within  about  two  miles  of  the  falls,  and  the  chan- 
nel is  sufficiently  deep  to  admit  of  shipping  to  the 
head  of  tide  water;  and  during  the  annual  freshets  the 
swollen  waters  of  the  Columbia  set  up  the  Walamet  to 
that  degree  that  vessels  have  ascended  as  high  as  the 
falls,  thirty  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Columbia. 
These  falls  are  about  twenty-five  feet  in  height ;  which, 
as  before  observed,  constitutes  the  most  important  water 
privilege  in  the  country.  After  this  obstacle  is  over- 
come, which  might  be  effected  by  a  canal  and  locks, 
the  river  would  be  navigable  for  a  small-sized  steam- 
boat until  we  arrive  at  Champoeg,  which  is  a  little  above 
the  commencement  of  the  Walamet  settlement,  and 
about  twenty-five  miles  above  the  falls.  Above  this 
the  river  becomes  shoal,  and  more  rapid,  so  that,  unless 
during  the  time  of  a  freshet,  this  would  be  the  head  of 
navigation  for  a  craft  of  any  considerable  size. 

The  valleys,  of  which  the  Walamet  is  the  most  im- 
portant, constitute  that  part  of  the  country  which  is  best 
adapted  to  agricultural  purposes.  This  valley  is  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length,  and  about  sixty 
miles  wide  in  the  widest  part,  through  which  the  Wala- 
met River  winds  its  devious  way,  whose  transparent 
waters  reflect  the  various  objects  on  its  banks  as  per- 
fectly as  their  originals. 

The  valley  next  in  importance  is  that  through  which 
the  Cowalitz  River  passes.  This  is  a  small  river  that 
heads  in  about  46°  30'  north  latitude,  and  empties  itself 
into  the  north  side  of  the  Columbia,  about  fifty  miles 
from  the  coast.  On  this  river,  which  can  be  navigated 
only  with  flaf-bottomed  boats  and  Indian  canoes,  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  has  an  extensive  farming 
establishment,  about  fifty  miles  from  its  junction  with 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Sat- 


the  Columbia.  This  valley  is  considered  very  pro- 
ductive, and  of  considerable  extent. 

The  valley  of  the  Columbia  is  of  less  importance  as 
a  farming  region,  unless,  as  before  observed,  the  rug- 
ged mountains  and  hills  were  divested  of  their  majestic 
forests,  and  the  most  of  these,  even,  would  be  found 
unmanageable.  This  valley  is  about  fifteen  miles  wide 
in  the  vicinity  of  Vancouver.  The  other  valleys  which 
have  come  under  our  observation  are  of  small  dimen- 
sions, being  simply  narrow  strips  on  the  margins  of  the 
rivers  and  creeks  which  pass  through  deep  cuts  in  the 
mountains. 

In  giving  a  description  of  the  soil,  we  wiU  commence 
with  those  plains  which  lie  upon  the  coast,  at  the  north 
and  south  of  the  Columbia.  The  Clatsop  Plain  is 
evidently  alluvial.  When  digging  a  cellar,  the  writer 
discovered  a  tree,  one  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter,  at 
the  depth  of  five  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth, 
which  had  lain  there  sufiiciently  long  to  become  entirely 
decayed,  yet  preserving  its  form  perfectly.  This  entire 
plain  is  composed  of  a  light-coloured  sand,  covered  to 
the  depth  of  from  four  to  twenty-four  inches  with  a 
composition  of  sand  and  decayed  vegetation,  which  as- 
sumes a  black  colour.  It  is  not  probable  that  this  soil 
will  be  durable ;  but  the  plain  in  its  natural  state  is 
covered  with  a  most  luxuriant  growth  of  the  best  quality 
of  grasses,  such  as  red  clover,  a  species  peculiar  to  that 
country;  and  timothy,  precisely  such  as  we  cultivate  in 
this  country ;  and  a  kind  of  cane  grass,  which  grows  in 
some  places  to  the  height  of  from  four  to  six  feet. 
Horses  and  cattle  are  very  fond  of  it  when  young,  and 
in  taste  it  resembles  the  young  stalks  of  corn.  On  the 
ridge  next  the  ocean,  the  plain  being  formed  of  ridges 
and  valleys  running  parallel  with  the  ocean,  the  wild 
pea  abounds,  which  nearly  resembles  the  tare.  The 
writer  having  made  the  experiment,  found  them  to 
answer  a  very  good  substitute  for  green  peas !  They 
come  forward  early,  and  are  much  sought  after  by  the 
cattle.    In  addition  to  the  above,  there  are  various  other 


86 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


species  of  wild  grasses,  and  one  which  resembles  the 
red-top  of  the  States.  Strawberries,  raspberries,  whor- 
tleberries, several  species  of  which  we  nave  never  met 
with  elsewhere ;  and  blackberries,  sallal  berries,  ser- 
vice berries,  gooseberries,  Scotch  caps,  and  cranberries 
abound  on  this  plain  and  in  the  adjacent  marshes. 
This  catalogue  embraces  all  the  wild  fruits  in  this 
vicinity,  with  the  exception  of  the  crab-apple,  which  is 
very  much  used  by  the  Indians,  and  with  which  some 
of  our  ladies  have  made  veiy  agreeable  tarts.  There 
is,  also,  a  berry  which  grows  upon  a  small  shrub,  a 
species  of  laurel,  about  the  size  of  a  large  pea,  of  a 
red  colour,  very  stringent,  and  containing  hard  seeds. 
These  are  also  used  by  the  Indians  as  food,  being  pre- 
pared; as  are  the  crab-a]9|)les,  by  being  boiled,  or  roasted 
under  the  ground  or  under  the  ashes.  The  leaves  of 
this  kind  of  laurel  are  dried,  and  mixed  with  tobacco  by 
the  natives  for  smoking.  ; 

This  soil,  as  will  hereafter  appear,  when  under  culti- 
vation, yields  sufficiently  to  satisfy  the  husbandman  for 
all  his  toils. 

The  soil  of  the  plain  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  is 
very  like  to  that  of  the  one  just  described ;  but  the  ridges 
and  mountains  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  plains 
which  are  bounded  by  the  Pacific  are,  as  before  stated, 
covered  with  dense  foi3sts,  and  present  a  soil  composed 
mostly  of  gravelly  clay,  which  is  a  stronger  and  more 
durable  soil ;  and  judging  by  the  abundant  crops  of 
most  excellent  potatoes  find  garden  vegetables  produced 
by  Mr.  Birnie,  at  Astoria,  it  may  be  put  down  as  being 
very  productive.  The  soil  of  the  valley  of  the  Colum- 
bia, in  the  vicinity  of  Vancouver,  is,  on  the  margin  of 
the  river,  alluvial ;  but  as  you  leave  ths  stream  it  as- 
sumes the  character  of  a  mixture  of  sand,  gravel,  and 
loam.  This  produces  abundant  crops  of  wheat,  oats, 
barley,  buck-wheat,  flax,  and  tolerable  corn  and  pota- 
toes, and  garden  vegetables  of  all  kinds.  Fruit  trees, 
such  as  apples  and  peaches,  thrive  and  bear  abundantly. 
The  peach,  however,  is  frequently  destroyed,  in  con- 


/ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


87 


sequence  of  putting  forth  its  blossoms  too  early,  which 
are  cut  off  by  the  succeeding  frosts.  A  species  of 
grape  is  also  cultivated  with  success  by  Dr.  M'Laugh- 
fin,  and  also  the  English  gooseberry  and  currant ;  but 
not  any  of  the  tropical  fruits,  such  as  the  orange,  &c., 
as  one  writer  would  have  it.  The  Cowalitz  Valley 
the  writer  has  no  personal  acquaintance  with ;  but  from 
the  description  given  by  those  who  have  visited  it,  and 
from  the  fact  that  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  has  an 
extensive  farming  establishment  there  in  successful 
operation,  where  they  grow  thousands  of  bushels  of 
wheat  and  other  grains  annually,  we  conclude  that  the 
soil  is  decidedly  fruitful.  There  are  also  number  of 
settlers  in  this  valley,  consisting  of  Canadians  whose 
time  of  service  in  the  company  having  expired,  they  have 
been  permitted  to  settle  here  with  their  Indian  wives. 
They  secure  their  subsistence  by  cultivating  the  earth, 
and  also  furnish  a  number  of  hundreds  of  bushels  of 
wheat,  and  other  articles  of  food,  for  the  Vancouver 
market.  This  settlement  is  about  thirty  miles  from  the 
Columbia.  In  the  vicinity  of  all  the  above-named  places, 
except  at  Astoria,  there  are  extensive  jprame*  or  natural 
meadows,  which  produce  an  abundance  of  pasture  for 
vast  flocks  and  herds,  both  summer  and  winter. 

We  will  now  enter  the  Walamet  Valley,  which,  as 
stated  above,  is  the  most  important  portion  of  the  ter- 
ritory when  viewed  in  respect  to  farming  operations. 
The  river,  between  its  junction  with  the  Columbia  and 
the  falls,  is  interspersed  with  several  beautiful  islands, 
the  soil  of  which,  and  of  the  adjacent  shores,  is  a  kind 
of  loam,  producing  abimdance  of  grass ;  but,  unfortu- 
nately for  the  farmers,  this  land,  which  would  no  doubt 
be  very  productive,  is  generally  rendered  unfit  for 
cultivation  in  consequence  of  the  annual  floods,  which 
would  destroy  any  crop  that  might  be  put  upon  it. 
One  farmer,  however,  by  the  name  of  Johnson,  an 
American,  discovered  a  location  sufficiently  extensive 
for  a  farm,  on  the  we&t  side  of  the  river,  about  fifteen 
miles  from  the  Columbia,  where  he  was  residing,  and 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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1.4    1 1.6 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WUSTIR.N.Y.  14SI0 

(716)172-4503 


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88 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


\ 


tilling  the  ground,  and  attending  his  flocks,  ^c,  "when 
we  left  the  country.  There  was  another  settler  between 
this  and  the  falls  at  that  time,  by  the  name  of  M'Cary, 
who  had  selected  a  high  rocky  promontory,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  where  he  had  made  a  residence, 
in  the  rear  of  which  he  said  there  was  a  very  good 
plain.  The  writer  called  to  see  him  for  a  few  moments, 
in  the  spring  of  1843,  when  he  found  that  his  Indian 
wife  haa,  in  addition  to  several  former  heirs,  just  pre- 
sented him  with  a  pair  of  twins.  So  that  the  reader 
may  discover  tliat  Oregon  is  destined  to  be  popukted, 
even  if  the  strange  "  Oregon  fever^^  which  has  been 
and  is  still  raging  in  the  United  States,  should  subside. 
The  next  place  worthy  of  note  is  the  Clackamus 
Plains,  quite  an  extensive  prairie,  or  it  rather  embraces 
a  number  of  prairies,  interspersed  with  groves  of  trees, 
and  underwood,  and  the  hazel-nut,  which  abounds  in 
this  valley,  and  is  the  only  kind  of  nut  to  be  found  in 
the  country,  unless  the  acorn  can  be  thus  denominated, 
which  also  abounds  here  and  elsewhere  in  the  interior. 
The  soil  on  this  plain  is  chiefly  composed  of  clay, 
gravel,  and  sand,  and  is  considered  productive.  We 
will  allude  to  this  place  again  when  we  come  to  speak 
of  the  missionary  operations.  At  the  falls  there  is  but 
very  little  soil  of  any  kind.  What  is  there  is  sandy, 
and  is  chiefly  to  be  round  on  the  east  side  of  the  river, 
running  down  in  a  narrow  strip,  bounded  by  the  river 
on  the  west,  and  by  a  high  rocky  ridge  on  the  east 
side,  increasing  in  width  as  you  descend  from  the  falls 
to  the  Clackamus  River,  which  descends  through  the 
Clackamus  Plains  and  enters  the  Walamet  about  two 
miles  below  the  falls.  The  west  side  of  the  river,  at 
the  falls,  and  for  some  distance  above  and  below,  is 
joined  by  a  high  rocky  ridge,  where  there  is  but  very 
little  soil  of  any  kind.  On  ascending  the  river  we  find 
the  country  on  both  sides  in  its  native  state,  being  cloth- 
ed in  its  forest  dress ;  so  much  so,  that  where  once  the 
populous  Indian  village  covered  the  bank,  and  from 
whence  the  forest  warrior  sallied  forth  upon  his  foe, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


89 


now  the  willow  and  the  cotton-wood  trees  hold  posses- 
sion of  the  spot,  and  no  traces  of  humanity  are  to  be 
seen,  except  the  trophies  of  death,  such  as  old  kettles 
and  pans,  which  were  the  property  of  the  former  inha- 
bitants, elevated  upon  sticks  over  the  canoes  or  holes  in 
the  earth  wherein  their  former  owners  were  deposited ; 
and  the  last  death-wail  has  long  since  passed  away 
upon  the  floating  breeze. 

This  is  the  state  of  things  until  we  arrive  at  a  place 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  called  the  Bute,  two 
miles  below  Chumpoeg,  where  the  Walamet  settle- 
ment proper  commences :  and  the  settlement  extends 
from  this,  up  the  east  side  of  the  river,  to  the  mission 
saw-mill,  the  distance  of  twenty-four  miles,  which  is 
one  continued  prairie,  being  crossed  at  intervals  by 
groves  of  timber  and  streams  of  water,  upon  which  are 
also  found  a  number  of  small  lakes  or  stagnant  ponds. 

The  soil  of  this  prairie  is  a  deep,  strong  clay,  pro- 
ducing abundant  crops  of  wheat,  oats,  barley,  potatoes, 
tolerable  corn,  and  garden  vegetables  of  all  kinds,  and 
pastures  for  flocks  and  herds  to  almost  any  extent.  The 
natural  fruit  of  this  valley  is  much  the  same  in  kind 
and  quality  as  that  upon  the  Clatsop  Plain  and  in  its 
neighbourhood,  with  the  addition  of  wild  cherries,  red 
and  black,  and  the  thorn-apple.  The  natural  flowers 
upon  this  extensive  plain  are  the  most  beautiful  that  our 
eyes  ever  beheld. 

Upon  the  Tualatin  Plains,  which  lie  to  the  west  of 
the  river  and  falls,  there  is  also  a  settlement,  though  of 
much  smaller  dimensions  and  of  more  recent  date  than 
that  on  the  east  side ;  yet  it  was  in  a  prosperous  state, 
enjoying  the  productions  of  a  rich  and  luxuriant  soil. 
And  there  is  also  a  settlement  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river  opposite  to  Chumpoeg,  in  the  Chehalim  Valley, 
which  bids  fair  to  succeed  ;  and  there  are  settlers  scat- 
tered along  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river  from  this  until 
you  reach  the  Yam-hills,  opposite  to  the  first  missiona- 
ry establishment.  From  this  point  the  writer  crossed 
the  plain  and  mountains  to  the  coast.    A  more  particu- 


I 

J 


j^ 


^^ 


j||§  TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 

lar  description  of  this  journey  will  hereafter  be  given, 
"  if  the  Lord  will."  The  Yam-hill  country  presents 
an  entirely  different  soil  from  that  part  of  the  valley 
already  described.  It  was  a  loose  cravel,  and  to  m 
appearance  quite  productive,  inasmucn  as  it  was  cover- 
ed with  a  stiff  sward,  and  abundance  of  grass  of  a  good 
quality,  especially  through  the  valley  bordering  on  each 
side  of  the  Yam-hill  River ;  which  is  a  stream  of  pure 
water  taking  its  rise  in  the  mountains  which  bound  the 
Pacific,  and  pursuing  a  north-easterly  direction,  empties 
itself  into  the  Walamet  below  the  missionary  post 
spoken  of  above.  This  part  of  the  valley  is  inhabited 
by  a  small  remnant  of  the  Yam-hill  clan  of  Indians 
only ;  but  as  it  is  the  most  inviting  portion  of  the  Wala- 
met Valley,  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  the  poor 
Indian  will  feast  for  the  last  time  upon  the  "  savoury 
meat"  which  the  God  of  nature  provides  for  him  in  such 
abundance,  and  when,  instead  of  the  antic  deer,  and  the 
bounding  elk,  and  growling  bear,  the  lowing  cow,  and 
prancing  horse,  and  bleating  sheep,  will  be  seen,  in  vast 
herds,  engaged  in  stripping  the  plains  of  their  carpets 
of  green.  And  where  shall  the  spirits  of  the  original 
proprietors  of  the  soil  have  found  a  lodgment  ?  In  the 
motley  charnel-house,  where  eternal  death  prevails — 
that  death  which  shall  never  issue  into  life  ?  Or  shall 
they  rise  in  judgment  and  condemn  many  thousands  of 
those  of  us  who  have  had  our  lives  and  education  given 
us  in  a  land  of  Bibles  and  ministers,  and  sermons  and 
prayers?    0,  reader,  stop  and  reflect. 

The  Walamet  Valley,  above  the  Yam-hills  on  the 
west,  and  the  mission  saw-mill  on  the  east  side,  is  unin- 
habited save  by  a  remnant  of  the  Calapooyas.  The 
average  crop  of  wheat  in  that  country  has  been  esti- 
mated, by  a  very  good  judge,  to  be  about  fifteen  bushels 
from  one  bushel  of  seed ;  but  there  have  been  instances 
where  one  acre  has  produced  forty  bushels.  My 
neighbour  on  Clatsop  Plain  gathered  five  hundred  bush- 
els of  potatoes  from  a  little  over  thirty  bushels  of  seed. 
This  was  the  first  crop  which  was  raised  upon  that 


given 
IS  and 

m  the 
unin- 
The 
In  esti- 
jushels 
litances 
My 
bush- 
If  seed. 
\a  that 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


91 


plain.  And  forty  bushels  of  peas  have  been  gathered 
from  09e  acre  in  the  Walamet.  Other  grains  do  vtrell, 
and  garden  vegetables  are  produced  in  great  abundance. 

Having  thus  briefly  described  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try, soil,  and  productions,  we  will  now  say  something 
of  the  climate.  The  climate  of  the  coast  is  temperate, 
resembling,  in  many  respects,  that  of  the  island  of 
Great  Britain.  The  year  is  made  up  of  the  dry  and 
rainy  seasons.  The  dry  season  commences,  generally, 
about  the  1st  of  May,  and  continues  until  the  1st  of 
November.  During  this  period  we  have  but  very  few 
showers,  which  are  seldom,  if  ever,  accompanied  with 
thunder  and  lightning.  But  vegetation  seldom  suffers 
on  this  account ;  for  the  mighty  fogs  from  the  Pacific 
supply  the  place  of  gentle  showers  to  all  the  country 
bordering  on  the  coast. 

-•'But  not  so  in  the  interior.  There  the  earth,  and  the 
clay  soil  especially,  becomes  exceeding  dry,  and  in 
some  places  it  may  be  found  baked  almost  to  the  con- 
sistency of  a  brick  ;  consequently,  in  those  regions,  in 
midsummer,  the  grass  is  entirely  dried  upon  the  fields, 
and  the  herds  feed  upon  it  as  ours  do  upon  hay  during 
winter,  with  the  addition  of  some  green  grass  obtained 
along  the  streams  and  m  the  swales.  In  the  Walamet 
Valley  there  are  heavy  dews,  which  in  some  measure 
atone  for  the  lack  of  showers ;  but  when  you  reach  the 
region  of  the  Dalls,  even  these  are  denied,  and  those 
highland  plains  are  like  unto  the  "  mountains  of  Gilboa," 
upon  which  the  dews  of  heaven  were  never  to  descend. 

There  are  but  few  days  upon  the  coast  so  warm 
during  summer  as  to  require  a  man,  unless  in  active 
employment,  to  lay  aside  his  coat,  the  atmosphere  be- 
ing most  delightfully  tempered  by  the  breeze  from  the 
ocean,  which  comes  in  with  the  morning  tide,  and 
generally  continues  through  the  day.  This  is  the  most 
healthy  portion  of  the  lower  country  during  summer. 
The  winter  rains  commence  about  the  1st  of  Novem- 
ber, and  continue,  in  general,  with  many  bright  and 
sunny  intermissions,  until  May.    But  the  winter  of 


•11 


1  I 


1'  ''i 


98 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


il 


1842  was  an  exception  to  this  general  rule.  Never  did 
rain  descend  in  such  torrents,  and  never  did  a  storm 
continue  for  such  a  length  of  time,  as  it  did  there,  at 
least  so  the  writer  thought,  while  he  spent  that  dreary 
winter  in  loneliness,  as  the  reader  will  hereafter  dis- 
cover, on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia ;  and  he  was  ex- 
ceedingly thankful  whenever  he  could  see  the  face  of 
the  stranger  sun,  and  be  permitted,  for  a  few  moments, 
to  bask  in  his  genial  rays.  But  during  the  other  two 
winters  which  he  spent  there,  the  storms  from  the 
southward  would  generally  endure  for  from  two  to 
four  days,  and  then  there  would  be  intermissions  of  a 
week,  during  which  the  weather  would  be  as  pleasant 
as  was  ever  enjoyed  during  the  month  of  May  in  the 
state  of  New-York.  The  reader  will  feel  safe  in 
receiving  the  above  statement  as  truth,  when  the  writer 
assures  nim  that  on  the  25th  of  December,  1840,  he 
plucked  a  strawberry  blossom  near  his  cabin  on 
Clatsop  Plain. 

There  is  but  little  snow  in  this  region.  During  the 
winter  of  1840  there  was  a  fall  of  snow  which  mea- 
sured seven  inches  on  the  level,  but  it  did  not  remain 
upon  the  ground  as  many  days  as  it  was  inches  in 
depth.  During  the  two  following  winters  of  the  writer's 
sojourn  there,  there  was  scarcely  snow  enough  to 
whiten  the  ground.  The  storms  from  the  southward, 
which  prevail  during  the  wet  season,  are  accompanied 
with  tremendous  blows,  so  that  if  a  whale  or  olack- 
fish  gets  into  the  eddy  which  is  formed  by  Cape  Look- 
out, at  the  southern  extremity  of  Clatsop  Plain,  he  is 
pretty  sure  to  come  ashore.  This  fact  was  exempli- 
fied during  the  month  of  November,  1840,  when  forty 
black-fish  came  ashore  upon  the  Clatsop  beach,  mea- 
suring from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length.  And  in 
the  month  of  January  follo^ivin^,  two  large  hump-back 
whales  were  driven  ashore  in  uie  same  vicinity.  And 
during  the  winter  of  1842,  a  part  of  a  whale  came  on 
shore :  this  was  of  sufficient  size  to  permit  Mr.  Solomon 
Smith,  my  neighbour,  to  stand  in  a  stooping  posture 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


93 


within  his  abdomen,  and  cut  out  pieces  of  fat  as  large 
as  he  was  able  to  dislodge.  These  are  limes  of  rejoic- 
ing and  fat  living  among  the  Indians,  as  will  hereafter 
more  fully  appear.  In  consequence  of  the  repeated 
and  protracted  rains,  the  climate,  from  November  until 
May,  is  exceedingly  humid,  and  in  addition  to  the  rain 
there  is  a  continual  vapour  arising  from  the  earth,  and 
much  of  the  time  a  dense  fog  being  blown  in  from  the 
ocean ;  which  renders  the  climate  unfavourable  for  per- 
sons afflicted  with  chronic  diseases.  But  the  intermit- 
tents,  so  prevalent  in  the  interior,  never  originate  here, 
and  cases  of  the  kind  are  unknown  in  this  vicinity, 
with  the  exception  of  such  as  visit  the  interior  during 
the  prevalence  of  the  epidemic.  Ploughing  can  be 
done  during  any  of  the  winter  months,  as  a  general  thing, 
and  potatoes  may  be  planted  in  the  month  of  March. 

I  must  here  relate  a  circumstance,  which  was,  to  us, 
quite  strange ;  the  next  summer  after  the  first  crop  of 
potatoes  were  raised  on  the  plain,  my  neighbour  found 
his  field  being  covered  with  young  potato  tops,  which 
proved  to  have  sprung  from  the  seeds,  or  potato  ap- 
ples, as  they  are  sometimes  called,  which  had  dropped 
into  the  ground  the  preceding  year.  The  writer  knows 
not  what  yield  these  spontaneous  vines  produced,  as  he 
left  the  country  before  the  next  potato  harvest.  The 
young  grass  on  this  plain  is  frequently  as  fresh,  green, 
and  forward,  on  the  plain  in  February  and  March,  as  it 
is  in  New- York  on  the  1st  of  May.  After  the  rainy 
season  passes  away,  and  the  month  of  May  sets  in,  all 
nature  puts  on  a  smiling  aspect,  and  life  and  vigour 
pour  through  every  vein  of  animated  nature. 

The  climate  of  the  interior  is  ouite  different  in 
many  respects.  At  Vancouver  and  tne  Walamet,  the 
dry  and  rainy  seasons  prevail,  and  during  the  former, 
or  dry  season,  it  is,  some  of  the  time,  say  from  the  1st 
of  June  until  September,  hot  some  days  almost  to 
suffocation,  the  thermometer  having  risen  to  nearly 
one  hundred  degrees  of  Fahrenheit ;  and  the  nights 
would  be  so  cool  that  one  or  two  blankets  were  found 


'I 


94 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


to  be  by  no  means  unwelcome  companions.  These 
sudden  changes  from  heat  to  cold  were  brought  about, 
no  doubt,  by  the  influence  exerted  upon  the  atmos- 
phere, as  soon  as  the  sun  disappears,  by  the  everlast- 
ing snows  which  perpetually  crown  the  lofty  mountains, 
with  which  this  region  is  surrounded,  as  before  ob- 
served. The  above  changes,  connected  with  the  facts, 
that  when  the  annual  floods  subside,  they  deposite  a 
vast  amount  of  decayed  and  decaying  vegetation  upon 
the  shores  of  the  rivers  and  the  tributaries,  up  which 
the  waters  back  for  miles,  which  vegetable  matter 
sends  forth  a  noxious  miasma ;  and  also,  that  that  region 
abounds  with  stagnant  lakes  and  pools,  which,  as  the 
waters  diminish  or  evaporate  during  the  dry  season, 
emit  their  unhealthy  vapours,  and  the  breaking  of  the 
soil,  cause  the  annual  epidemics  to  prevail,  from  which 
but  few  of  the  inhabitants  escape. 

At  the  approach  of  winter  these  diseases,  with  which 
the  atmosphere  was  loaded,  now  begin  to  disappear,  and 
then  the  poor  man  who  is  affected  with  chronic  pains 
must  pay  tribute  to  the  "  Esculapian,"  or  "  medicine 
mariy"  as  the  Indians  say.  And  now  it  becomes  every 
honest  citizen  to  haul  on  his  sea  boots,  if  he  is  so  for- 
tunate as  to  possess  a  pair,  for  moccasins  are  of  no 
further  avail,  tor  the  earth,  which  was,  during  the  heat 
of  summer,  as  hard  as  a  brick,  now  becomes,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  protracted  southerly  rains,  which  pre- 
vail here  as  well  as  upon  the  coast,  like  unto  a  bed  of 
mortar.  And  upon  some  portions  of  the  Walamet 
Plains,  which,  during  summer,  are  perfectly  solid,  a 
horse  will,  during  the  rainy  season,  sink  in  up  to  his 
belly,  when  his  rider  must  dismount  in  the  mire,  and 
allow  his  nag  to  find  his  way  out  to  "terra  firma"  the 
best  way  he  can,  where  he  remounts  and  gallops  off 
until  he  meets  with  another  disaster  of  the  kind,  or  a 
worse  one. 

In  this  region  they  have  some  more  snow  than  upon 
the  coast,  and  the  weather  during  the  winter  is  colder ; 
yet  not  so  much  snow  and  cold  as  to  prevent  the  horses 


the 
and 


an 
the 
the 
19,ic 
is  the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


95 


and  cattle  procuring  a  sufficiency  of  food,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  very  few  instances,  when  cattle  have  been 
known  to  die  because  of  the  inclemency  of  the  weather, 
and  want  of  food. 

In  the  region  of  the  Dalls,  and  further  in  the  inte- 
rior, the  country  is  generally  more  healthy. 


f.   Vit-' 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


i\  i . 


Number  of  Indians  in  Oregon  Territoiy— Their  character^— Wan  among 
them — Personal  appearance — Dress — Description  of  those  inhabiting  the 
lower  country — Their  heads  flattened  in  infancy — Anecdote  iHustrative  of 
their  shrewdness — Slaves  among  them — Polygamy — They  sell  their  daugh* 
ters — Their  moral  character — Wild  animals — Fish. 

We  now  proceed  to  give,  as  accurately  as  possible, 
the  number  of  Indians  in  the  Oregon  T*erritory,  their 
character,  and  manners  and  customs. 

The  Rev.  Samnel  Parker,  whose  "Journal  of  an 
Exploring  Tour  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains'*  is  now 
before  us,  estimates  the  number  of  natives  in  that 
territory  in  the  lower  country,  between  California  and 
the  forty-seventh  degree  of  north  latitude,  at  50,000, 
and  those  of  the  upper  country  at  32,585,  and  then  ob- 
serves that  "  we  might  more  than  double  this"  (the  last) 
"  number,  and  probably  still  come  below  the  popula- 
tion of  the  upper  country."     >  > 

Doctor  Bangs,  in  his  History  of  Methodism,  sur 
poses  their  numbers  to  amount  to,  probably,  150,000. 

And  Mr.  Thomas  J.  Farnham,  'professedly ^  gives 
"  an  extract  from  the  report  of  Lieutenant  Wilks,  to 
the  secretary  of  the  navy,"  in  which  the  numbers  of 
the  Indians  in  the  Oregon  Territory  are  estimated  at 
19,199.  What  a  contrast !  And  yet  this  last  number 
is  the  most  accurate,  being,  as  the  writer  believes,  not 
many  hundreds  wide  of  the  mark  ;  but  in  this  estimate 
there  are,  to  his  certain  knowledge,  two  errors.  He 
passed  through  the  Killamook  country,  while  the  ex- 
ploring squadron,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant 


i 


m 


.v#0 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Wilks,  was  in  the  Columbia,  and  ascertained  the 
number  of  the  Killamook  clan  to  amount  to  no  more 
than  two  hundred,  whereas,  in  this  *'  extract"  it  is 
estimated  at  four  hundred.  And  the  numbers  of  the 
Dalls  Indians  are  underrated  at  least  one  half.  This 
last  statement  the  writer  makes  upon  the  authority 
of  a  gentleman  who  resided  there  for  the  space  of  five 
years,  which  embraced  the  time  when  the  above-men- 
tioned squadron  made  their  surveys  in  the  country. 

And  now,  with  these  very  different  and  contradic- 
tory statements,  the  writer  will  leave  the  world  to 
guess  at  the  exact  number  of  Indians  in  that  territory, 
while  he  will  proceed  to  give  a  brief  description  of 
their  character,  manners,  and  customs ;  and  in  so  do- 
ing he  will  have  occasion  to  refer,  once  more,  to  the 
Journal  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Parker.  When  speaking  of 
the  character  of  "  the  Indians  of  the  plains  or  upper 
country,"  this  gentleman  states,  that  "  they  are  scru- 
pulously honest  in  all  their  dealings,  and  lying  is 
scarcely  known."  And  says,  "  They  fear  to  sin  against 
the  great  Spirit  and  therefore,  have  but  one  heart,  and 
their  tongue  is  straight,  and  not  forked."  And  further 
adds,  ''  And  so  correctly  does  the  law  written  upon 
their  hearts  accord  with  the  written  law  of  God,  that 
every  infraction  of  the  seventh  commandment  of  the 
decalogue,"  that  is,  the  commandment  which  prohibits 
the  commission  of  adultery,  ''  is  punished  with  seve- 
rity !" 

I  know  not  how  to  apologize  for  these  misstatements, 
only  by  stating,  which  is  no  doubt  the  fact,  that  this 
gentleman  was  not  in  the  country  a  sufficient  length 
of  time  to  become  acquainted  with  the  Indian  charac- 
ter. With  reference  to  their  honesty  and  integrity  our 
readers  may  judge,  when  we  assure  them  from  per- 
sonal observation,  and  from  information  received  from 
gentlemen  and  ladies  who  have  resided  among  those 
Indians,  that  they  are  both  thieves  and  liars ;  and  they 
will  also  judge  of  their  virtuous  dispositions,  when  they 
learn  that  in  two  instances  attempts  were  made  upon 


TEN  YEARS  IN  O^SLSQQV, 


97 


white  ladies  who  resided  among  them.  Surely  these 
were  virtuous  Indians ! 

This  gentleman  further  states  :  "  The  Indians  west 
of  the  great  chain  of  mountains  have  no  wars  among 
themselves,  and  appear  to  be  averse  to  them,  and  do 
not  enter  into  battle  except  in  self-defence,  and  then  only 
in  the  last  extremity."  See  Journal,  p.  236.  Now 
the  facts  in  thepremises  lie  upon  the  opposite  side  of 
the  " trail"  Tnere  are  perpetual  feuds  existing  be- 
tween the  different  clans.  They  do  not  often  come 
forth  in  battle  array,  as  did  the  armies  of  the  kings  of 
Israel  and  Philistia ;  but  whenever  they  get  a  sly 
chance,  they  pounce  upon  their  foe  like  the  panther  upon 
his  prey,  and  as  many  of  their  enemies  as  do  not  fall 
before  the  arrow,  the  rifle-ball,  or  the  knife,  are  driven 
away,  and  sold  into  perpetual  slavery. 

The  Chenooks  who  reside  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Columbia,  in  plain  sight  and  hearing  of  the  writer, 
while  he  resided  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  during 
the  summer  of  1842,  were  at  war  among  themselves, 
and  they  were  not  at  peace  when  he  left  the  country. 
During  the  summer  referred  to,  you  could  hear  the 
muskets  and  rifles  firing,  some  days,  from  morning  till 
night ;  and  that  clan  will  soon  be  in  the  condition  of  the 
Kilkenny  cats,  of  whom  it  is  reported  that  they  contin- 
ued to  fight  until  they  devourea  each  other  all  but  the 
tails. 

This  dispute  and  consequent  war  arose  among  them 
in  precisely  the  same  way  that  the  most  irreconcilable 
disputes  and  exterminating  wars  have  arisen  in  other 
hereditary  monarchies  among  their  Christian  neigh- 
bours. Chenamus,  their  chief,  was  called  upon  by 
death  to  abdicate  the  ancient  throne  upon  which  Com- 
comly  once  sat  in  dignity  and  pomp  when  his  white 
son-in-law  bore  rule  at  Astoria  :  and  now,  as  it  gener- 
ally goes,  his  son,  the  "  heir  apparent,"  would  needs 
ascend  this  seat  of  ancient  honour ;  but  in  this  he  found 
a  rival,  for  another  salmon-eater,  who  perhaps  felt  a 
drop  of  "  royal  blood"  running  through  his  veins,  would 

5 


98 


TIN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i:i    I 


n 


be  chief  also,  which  was,  of  course,  a  sufficient  cause 
of  war. 

After  enumeratinff  a  number  of  vices  to  wliich  these 
Indians  are  addicted,  such  as  gambling,  &c.,  he  adds : 
"It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  their  virtue,  any  more 
than  that  of  other  tribes,  would  be  invulnerable  if  ex- 
posed to  temptation."  No ;  for  actual  experiment  has 
long  since  proved  to  a  demonstration,  that  the  slightest 
temptation  has  completely  overcome  their  long-cherish- 
ed virtuous  principles. 

''  But  still  the  writer  is  very  much  inclined  to  join  with 
his  Christian  brother  in  saying :  "  The  moral  disposi- 
tion," that  is,  the  natural  disposition,  "  of  these  Indians 
is  veiy  commendable,  certainly  as  much  so  as  any  peo- 
ple," m  their  natural  state,  "  that  can  be  named."  For, 
since  he  has  reached  his  own  Christian  nation,  he  finds 
it  important  and  absolutely  necessary  to  keep  things 
under  lock  and  key  to  prevent  them  from  taking  to 
themselves  legs  and  walking  away. 

Perhaps,  before  dismissing  these  Indians,  it  should 
be  observed,  that,  in  general  appearance,  they  resemble 
each  other  from  the  Dalls  to  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
men  are  generally  above  the  middling  size,  and  the  wo- 
men of  common  stature,  and  both  are  well  formed. 
Their  complexion  may  be  a  little  lighter  than  other  In- 
dians. Their  hair  and  eyes  are  black,  their  cheek 
bones  high,  and  very  frequently  they  have  aquiline 
noses.  Their  hands,  feet,  and  ankles  are  small  and 
well  formed,  and  their  movements  are  easy,  if  not  grace- 
ful. They  wear  their  hair  long,  part  it  upon  their  fore- 
heads, and  let  it  hang  in  tresses  on  each  side  or  down 
behind. 

Their  dress  is  much  the  same  throughout  the  differ- 
ent clans,  which  consists  of  a  shirt,  worn  over  long, 
close  leggins,  with  moccasins  for  the  feet.  These  are 
of  dressed  skins  of  the  deer,  antelope,  mountain-goat, 
and  sheep.  They  use  many  ornaments,  such  as  feath- 
ers, beads,  buttons,  and  painted  porcupine  quills.  The 
dress  of  the  women  and  men  is  much  the  same,  ex- 


cej: 

froi 

the] 

mei 

and 

the 

V 

and 

tioni 

trait! 

Ti 

try,l 

atten 

Ti 

bia, 

the  b 

theC 

take  I 

quaiit 

To 

Checi 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


99 


luse 

nese 

ids: 

nore 

i  ex- 

t  has 

htest 

jrish- 

i  with 
aposi- 
idians 

^C 

i  finds 


should 
semble 
8.  The 
ihewo- 
Iformed. 
ler  In- 
cheek 
aquiline 
lall  and 
tgrace- 
eir  fore- 
or  down 

le 


cept,  instead  of  the  shirt,  the  women  wear  a  kind  of 
frock,  which  comes  down  nearly  to  the  feet.  Many  of 
them  wear  a  larse  cap  made  of  dressed  skins,  orna- 
mented witii  beads.  They  have  abundance  of  horses, 
and  are  excellent  horsemen.  Their  arms  consist  of 
the  bow  and  arrow,  musket,  rifle,  and  knife. 

We  will  now  dismiss  the  Indians  of  the  upper  country, 
and  when  we  come  to  speak  of  the  missionary  opera- 
tions at  the  Dalls  we  will  exhibit  some  more  particular 
traits  in  their  character. 

The  character  of  those  which  inhabit  the  lower  coun- 
try, between  the  Dalls  and  the  coast,  now  demands  our 
attention. 

The  Chenooks  inhabit  the  north  side  of  the  Colum- 
bia, their  summer  residence  being  immediately  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  during  salmon  season,  and  upon 
the  Chenook  River  a  few  miles  to  the  north,  where  tney 
take  a  second  run  of  salmon,  which  are  of  an  inferior 
quality.     These  are  preserved  for  their  winter  food. 

To  the  north  of  the  Chenook  we  meet  with  the 
Checaldish  clan,  who  also  reside  on  the  Columbia  du- 
ring summer  in  times  of  peace.  And  to  the  north  of 
these  is  another  clan  called  the  Quiniutles.  These 
sometimes  visit  the  Columbia,  but  not  generally.  The 
Cawalitz  are  the  next  to  be  met  with  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river,  and  between  them  and  the  Dalls  it  is  in- 
habited by  scattering  bands  of  Chenooks  and  Clicka- 
tats.  The  south  side  of  the  Columbia,  immediately  on 
the  coast,  is  inhabited  by  the  Clatsops,  and  to  the  south 
of  them  is  the  Killemook  country.  A  clan  called  the 
Claskanios  lived  upon  the  streams  which  empty  into 
the  head  of  Young's  Bay,  which  clan  is  very  nearly 
extinct.  Further  up  the  liver  we  meet  with  a  remnant 
of  a  clan  called  the  Ne  Coniacks.  From  this  to  the 
Dalls  again  we  meet  with  only  a  few  wandering  bands 
of  Clickatats  and  Chenooks. 

The  natives  of  the  Walamet  Valley  consist  princi- 
pally of  the  Calapooyas ;  and  here  we  are  under  the 
necessity  of  correcting  another  mistake  recorded  in  the 


ih 


100 


TSN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i      I 


I     t 


Journal  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Parker.  This  gentleman 
represents  the  Galapooyas  as  being  "divided  into  seven- 
teen different  tribes,  under  their  respective  chiefs,  and 
number  about  ei^t  thousand  seven  hundred  and  eighty 
persons,  who  speak  the  same  language,  radically,  iwith 
only  a  little  difference  in  dialect,"  &c.  See  page  262, 
third  edition.  Now  the  fact  is  this :  there  never  was 
but  one  tribe  of  Galapooyas,  and  of  that  tribe  there  are 
only  a  few  most  miserable  remnants  left,  (which  is  the 
condition  of  all  the  Indians  in  the  lower  country,)  and 
these  remnants,  consisting  of  but  a  few  families  each, 
are  scattered  over  the  most  part  of  the  Walamet  Val- 
ley, and  will  not  number  more  than  from  five  to  eight 
hundred.  To  prevent  mistake,  I  will  here  observe 
that  the  Yam-hills,  of  whom  previous  mention  has  been 
made,  are  a  remnant  of  this  nation ;  which  band  con- 
sists of  two  or  three  families,  and  is,  perhaps,  one  of 
Mr.  P. 's  tribes.  .'     vt. 

As  it  regards  the  Umbaquas,  of  whom  Mr.  P.  savs 
"  they  are  divided  into  six  tribes,"  it  will  be  well  K)r 
the  reader  to  understand,  that,  in  the  year  1840,  the 
Rev.  Messrs.  J.  Lee  and  G.  Hines  made  a  tour  through 
their  country  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  a  location  for 
a  missionary  {)ost  among  these  supposed  "  six  tribes ;" 
but,  after  passing  through  their  country  from  the  Wala- 
met Valley,  through  deep,  dark  ravines,  and  over  high, 
rugged,  and  precipitous  mountams,  and  finally  down 
the  rapid,  whirling  Umbaqua  River  to  the  coast,  they 
found  a  few  miserable  fish-eaters,  who  were  as  savage 
as  the  bears,  their  neighbours,  from  among  whom,  as 
they  were  informed  by  their  guide  and  guardian,  an  In^ 
dian  woman,  the  wife  of  the  man  who  had  charge  of 
the  company's  trading  post  in  that  region,  they  did  well 
to  escape  with  their  lives;  fc ,  while  there,  she 
had  watched  their  movements  all  night,  while  the  mis- 
sionaries slept,  and  had  expected  an  attack  from  them 
before  morning.  The  brethren  decided  that  it  was  **  not 
expedient  to  establish  a  missionary  post  there,"  in  which 
decision  the  writer  most  heartily  concurred. 


TEN  TEAB8  IN  OREOOIT. 


101 


man 
iven- 
,  and 

tl 

262, 

•  wa» 
'6  are 
»the 
,)  and 
eachy 
kVal- 
eight 
Dserve 
3  been 
J  con- 
one  of 

^  says 
ell  for 
10,  the 
hrough 
lion  lor 
ribes ;" 
Wala- 
T  high, 
down 
St,  they 
savage 
liom,  a» 
an  In- 
arge  of 
lid  well 
re,  she 
he  mis- 
m  them 
as  "not 
n  which 


i 


These  Indians  of  the  lower  country  reKemble  each 
other  in  person  and  manners,  and,  with  some  slight  excepo 
tions,  in  dress  also,  and  the  exceptions  must  be  very  slight y 
unless  it  be  this,  that  some  have  a  very  little  cover- 
ing, and  others  none  at  all,  and  the  best  have  but  three 
changes,  as  it  is  said,  that  is,  to  put  on,  put  off,  and  go 
without*  and  the  latter  change  is  frequently  preferred. 
The  writer  dares  not  attempt  a  particular  description 
of  their  wardrobe ;  but  he  will  venture  to  say  that  the 
men  wear  a  shirt,  and  when  it  is  cold,  a  Uanket  if  they 
can  get  it;  but  there  are  a  few  immediately  on  the 
river  who  dress  as  Europeans  sometimes^  which  clothes 
they  obtain  from  trading  vessels  and  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company  for  salmon  and  furs.  The  dresses  of  the 
females  are  entirely  inexpressibles,  except  that  they 
sometimes  wear  a  blanket  over  their  Moulders,  made 
of  small  skins  sew<.d  together  with  the  sinews  of  the 
elk  or  deer,  or  such  as  are  obtained  from  the  traders. 

They  are  very  fond  of  ornaments,  such  as  beads, 
rings,  bracelets,  feathers,  and  shells.  One  kind  of 
shells  in  use  among  them  are  obtained  on  the  north- 
west coast,  which  is  a  small,  white,  spiral  shell,  called 
by  them  the  "  Ta-cope-ta-cope,"  or  "  Hiaqua."  A 
fathom  of  these,  when  strung  upon  a  string,  are  worth 
a  good  three  point  blanket,  and  these  are  their  currency. 
It  is  not  unfrequently  the  case  that  you  may  meet  with 
an  Indian  with  a  bunch  of  these,  say  ten  or  fifteen,  tied 
together,  and  hung  in  each  ear,  and  ont  sticking  through 
a  hole  in  the  ligament  which  divides  the  nostrils,  with 
face  and  parts  of  the  body  daubed  with  a  kind  of  red 
clay,  and  a  rude  cap,  adorned  with  feathers,  upon  his 
pancake-shaped  head,  with  long  hair  queued  up  behind^ 
upon  which  must  be  suspend^  a  bunch  of  shells  and 
some  feathers,  and  a  short  dirty  shirt.  After  spending 
much  time  in  thus  richly  and  genteelly  attiring  himself 
he  comes  out  a  *^ perfect  beau"  And  it  can  easily  be 
ascertained  when  their  young  ladies  are  considered  fit 
for  market,  by  the  profusion  of  the  like  ornaments  with, 
which  their  persons  are  adorned.    And  yet  it  is  with 


102 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i 


them  as  with  other  nations,  ornaments  do  not  constitute 
beauty,  for  neither  sex  can  boast  of  this  gift  of  nature 
Their  noses  are  generally  broad  and  rather  flat  at  the 
top,  and  fleshy  at  the  end,  with  large  nostrils.  They 
have  wide  mouths,  thick  lips,  with  very  good  teeth : 
they  are  frequently,  however,  in  aged  persons,  worn 
away  to  the  gums  by  eating  so  much  sand  with  their 
food.  The  men  carefully  eradicate  every  vestige  of 
beard,  which  they  consider  a  deformity,  except  a  few 
individuals,  who  leave  what  is  called,  by  some  of  their 
politer  neighbours,  a  "  goahf*  under  the  chin.  Their 
hair  is  black  and  coarse,  and  both  sexes  wear  it  at  fuU 
length.  In  size  they  are  generally  below  five  feet  five 
inches,  with  crooked  legs  and  thick  ankles ;  a  deformity 
caused  by  their  passine  so  much  of  their  time  sitting 
or  squattmg  upon  their  neels  in  the  bottom  of  their  ca- 
noes— a  favourite  position,  which  they  retain  even  when 
on  shore.  The  women  increase  the  deformity  by  wear- 
ing tight  bandases  round  the  ankles,  which  prevent  the 
circulation  of  the  blood,  and  cause  a  swelling  in  the 
muscle  of  the  leg. 

While  in  infancy  their  heads  are  flattened,  by  comr- 
pressure,  firom  the  eye-brows  to  the  crown,  and  the 
natter  they  can  be  made  the  more  beautiful  they  are  in 
their  estimation.  One  of  their  females  came  mto  the 
house  of  the  writer  one  day  with  a  child,  the  head  of 
which  was  exquisitely  flat.  On  being  asked  how  she 
succeeded  in  making  it  so  flat,  the  woman  said  that  she 
had  put  a  bag  of  sand  on  it  in  the  first  instance,  but  as 
that  proved  too  light,  she  removed  it,  and  put  the  axe 
in  its  place,  which  eflected  the  work  to  perfection.  The 
slaves,  however,  are  not  allowed  to  enjoy  the  benefit  of 
this  strange  deformity;  consequently  their  heads  are 
left  in  their  natural  state. 

The  following  anecdote  will  show  that  they  are  not 

'^  wanting  in  intellect,  or,  at  least,  shrewdness.    When 

the  Rev.  J.  Lee  visited  the  United  States  in  1839,  he 

brought  with  him  two  boys  of  the  Chenook  nation. 

One  of  these  being  asked,  by  a  gentleman  of  the  States, 


I    > 


'"^■W 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


108 


the  reason  why  their  people  flattened  their  heads,  ask- 
ed, in  return,  "  Why  do  your  ladies  make  themselves 
so  small  about  the  waist  ?  And  now,  having  commit- 
ted myself  by  mentioning  "  slaves f^*  I  shall  be  under 
the  necessity  of  saying  something  more  on  this  subject. 
Their  slaves  and  their  women  constitute  the  greatest 
part  of  their  property.  What !  their  women  ?  Yes  ; 
but  hold,  I  must  speak  of  slavery  first.  Their  slaves 
are  such  as  are  taken  prisoners  in  time  of  war,  or, 
perhaps,  more  properly,  such  as  are  stolen  from  other 
tribes.  For  instance,  a  band  of  Killemooks  go  to  the 
south,  and  falling  in  with  a  weaker  clan  of  their  south- 
ern neighbours,  they  make  no  further  ado,  but  fall  upon 
them,  gun  and  knife  in  hand ;  some  they  kill,  the  re- 
mainder they  take  prisoners,  and  convey  them  to  the 
north,  and  sell  them  to  their  Clatsop,  Chenook,  or 
Checalish  neighbours,  when  they  become  slaves  for 
life,  and  their  children  after  them.  What  they  call  a 
good  man  slave  is  worth  as  much  as  a  horse,  that  is, 
from  ten  to  twelve  blankets,  and  so  on,  according  to 
their  size  and  qualifications.  The  female  slaves  are 
worth  less,  from  the  fact  that  they  are  not  able  to  per- 
form so  much  drudgery.  But  in  what  sense  are  their 
women  their  property  1  Why,  the  more  wives  a  man 
has,  the  more  work  he  can  have  done  ;  and  every  man 
has  a  right,  according  to  their  view  of  things,  to  have 
as  many  wives  as  he  is  able  to  purchase.  And  do  the 
parents  sell  their  daughters  ?  Yes,  in  the  following 
manner.  When  a  young  beau  or  an  old  beau — and 
the  latter  circumstance  is  just  as  likely  to  happen  there 
as  in  the  civilized  world — makes  overtures  for  the  hand 
of  one  of  his  neighbours'  daughters,  he  in  the  first  place 
approaches  the  parents,  or,  in  case  the  girl  has  no  pa- 
rents, the  proposals  are  made  to  her  nearest  relative. 
The  parent  or  relative  then  breaks  the  subject  to  the 
girl,  and  if  the  suit  proves  favourable,  the  terms  are 
settled,  which  may  require  the  swain  to  produce  so 
many  canoes,  horsus,  blankets,  kiaquas,  or  other  arti- 
cles of  property,  upon  the  day  when  the  nuptials  are 


' 


i 
t 


?■! 


t 


(  f  m 


'  I  i  '.ii 


104 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


i'  ii 


to  be  celebrated.  This  property  is  divided  among  the 
relatives  of  the  bride  ;  and  after  the  ceremony — ^mar- 
riage ceremonies,  however,  have  become  nearly  if  not 
quite  obsolete  in  the  lower  country — ^the  bridegrooni 
receives  the  bride's  dowry,  which  is  generally  of  much 
less  value  than  the  goods  paid  down  by  him. 

One  girl  of  the  Clatsop  clan  refused  to  tender  her 
much  desired  hand  to  a  Chenook  of  some  rank, 
alleging  as  a  reason  for  her  denial  that  her  relatives 
would  require  a  very  high  price  for  her,  and  as  but  lit- 
tle would  be  given  in  return,  if  she  conceded  to  the 
proposition,  she  would  be  obliged  to  work  very  hard  to 
make  her  husband's  heart  good ;  so,  embracing  a  fa- 
vourable opportunity,  she  hid  herself  in  the  woods  until 
the  storm  of  love  had  measurably  subsided,  when  she 
returned  to  enjoy  the  bliss  of  a  single  squaw's  life. 

In  respect  to  their  moral  character^  I  cannot,  in  jus- 
tice to  them,  and  to  myself,  say,  that  it  is  blacker  than 
that  of  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of  their  white 
brethren  in  the  civilized  world.  And  for  a  full  descrip- 
tion of  both  I  will  refer  the  reader  to  the  first  chapter 
of  Paul's  Epistle  to  the  Romans,  from  the  19th  verse 
to  the  close  of  the  chapter. 

Their  superstitions  are  almost  endless  and  very 
deeply  rooted,  and  are  manifested  more  and  more  as 
we  become  better  acquainted  with  them.  To  enu- 
merate and  describe  which,  would  require  a  considera- 
ble labour,  and  such  a  description  would  necessarily 
take  up  a  number  of  our  pages,  and  when  done,  the 
benefit  derived  therefrom  to  our  readers  would  not 
quit  cost ;  consequently  we  deem  it  our  duty  to  pass 
this  subject  by,  and  proceed  to  notice  those  things  in 
connection  with  the  history,  which  will  be  calculated 
to  render  this  work  more  valuable. 

These  Indians  are  the  most  degraded  human  beings 
that  we  have  met  with  in  all  our  joumeyings,  taking 
them  as  a  whole.  There  is  not  one  among  them  that 
can  be  considered  virtuous.  And,  in  consequence  of 
disease,  which  cleaves  to  them  from  their  birth,  and 


Col 
Of 
anc 
sain 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


105 


the  many  murders  committed  among  them,  they  are 
rapidly  wasting  away,  and  the  time  is  not  far  distant 
when  the  last  deathwail  will  proclaim  their  universal 
extermination.  It  is  truly  heart-rending  to  see,  as  we 
have,  how  the  **  last  enemy"  chases  them  "  from  the 
cradle  to  the  grave.*' 

The  wild  animals  of  that  country  demand  our  notice. 
They  consist  of  elk,  deer,  black  and  grizzly  bear,  (the 
latter,  however,  does  not  inhabit  the  lower  countiy,) 
the  wolf,  small  and  large,  panther  and  catamount,  fox, 
racoon  and  rabbit,  porcupine,  polecat,  squirrel  and  wea- 
sel, beaver,  otter,  both  land  and  sea,  and  mountain 
sheep.  ^  ;■• .  --■  ■■.'..'  '  -'i'i' 

The  wild-fowl  may  be  enumerated  as  follows.  The 
swan,  goose  and  duck,  of  every  variety,  and  in  great 
abundance  ;  the  pelican,  cormorant,  and  gull ;  all  the 
above  are  eaten  by  the  Indians ;  the  eagle,  crow,  hawk, 
raven,  pigeon,  robii:,  lark,  swallow,  buzzard,  owl,  jay, 
yellow-bird,  and  humming-bird ;  besides  some  others 
of  the  smaller  tribes.  So  that  game  is  very  abundant, 
especially  in  the  spring  and  fall. 

The  forests  and  plains  are  no  more  profuse  in  pre- 
senting man  with  stores  of  food,  than  the  rivers  and 
streams,  which  abound  in  the  finny  tribes.  The  Colum- 
bia and  Frazier's  Rivers,  at  the  north,  to  mention  no 
more,  produce  vast  numbers  of  salmon ;  those  of  the 
Columbia,  however,  are  far  superior  to  any  others. 
Of  these  the  writer  obtained  one  which  weighed  45lbs., 
and  this  was  by  no  means  a  rare  specimen.  The 
salmon  season  commences  about  the  1  st  of  April  and 
continues  until  August.  The  common  price  for  a 
salmon  is  five  charges  of  ammunition,  or  one  common 
cotton  shirt  for  ten.  The  Indians  take  them  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  river  with  the  seine  and  spear.  The 
seine  is  manufactured  by  themselves  out  of  a  native 
hemp,  and  the  bark  of  a  species  of  willow :  the  spear 
is  also  their  own  manufacture.  At  the  falls  they  take 
them  with  what  is  sometimes  called  a  scap-net,  and 
spear.    Hundreds  of  barrels  are  purchased  nrom  then 


ti  'Hi 


it'        -^ 

y 


106 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


annually  by  individuals  and  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany. And  yet  many  thousands  are  found  completely 
worn  out  with  fatigue  at  the  very  head  of  the  river  and 
its  tributaries. 

In  the  month  of  November  they  have  another  run 
of  salmon,  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  which  come  in 
from  the  ocean  at  the  smaller  rivers,  which  the  Indians 
take  in  great  abundance,  and  prepare  them  by  cutting 
them  in  very  thin  parts  and  drying  without  salt,  for 
their  winter  food. 

Besides  the  salmon  they  have  abundance  of  sturgeon 
of  an  excellent  quality,  and  a  great  variety  of  smaller 
fish,  such  as  salmon  trout,  trout,  and  what  they  call 
"  calahtubbah,"  and  crabs,  clams,  and  mussels. 

Having  thus  briefly  described  the  face  of  the  coun- 
try ;  the  soil,  climate,  and  productions ;  the  natives,  with 
some  of  their  manners  and  customs ;  the  animals  and 
fishes,  we  will  now  return  to  the  time  of  the  abandon- 
ment of  Astoria  by  Mr.  Hunt  and  his  friends,  and  fol- 
low down  the  stream  of  time  until  the  next  party  of 
Americans  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


■^\>'i'. 


*", 


-■'i 


.v» . 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Sand-bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia — Loss  of  the  ship  WiUiam  and 
Ann — Of  the  Isabella — ^Of  a  vessel  from  Asia — Streams  of  the  country 
possess  petrifying  qualities,  trees  and  other  things  exposed  to  their  action 
naving  been  found  in  a  petrified  state — Japanese  junk  cast  away — The 
epidemic  ague-v-Indians'  idea  of  its  origin — Mr.  David  Douglass  visits 
Oregon — A  party  of  American  traders  under  command  of  Capt.  WyeUi 
cross  the  mountains. 

The  sand-bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  has 
been  mentioned  heretofore,  as  being  dangerous  to  those 
who  are  not  well  acquainted  with  the  channel.  In 
consequence  of  this  obstruction,  in  the  year  1828  the 
ship  William  and  Ann  was  cast  away  a  little  within 
the  bar ;  and  as  all  on  board  perished,  (being  twenty- 
six;  in  number,)  the  circumstances  of  the  catastrophe, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


107 


80  lamentable  in  its  character,  could  never  be  ascer- 
tained. And  on  the  23d  of  May,  1830,  the  ship 
Isabella  was  cast  away  upon  a  bar  projecting  from 
Sand  Island  opposite  to  Baker's  Bay.  As  soon  as  she 
struck  the  men  all  deserted  her,  and  without  stopping 
at  Fort  George,  made  their  way  to  Vancouver.  It  is 
thought  that  if  they  had  remained  on  board  until  the 
tide  served,  she  might  have  been  saved ;  most  of  her 
cargo  was  saved.  About  thirty  or  forty  miles  to  the 
south  of  the  Columbia  are  the  remains  of  a  vessel  which 
was  sunk  in  the  sand  near  shore,  probably  from  the 
coast  of  Asia,  laden,  at  least  in  part,  with  bees-wax. 
Great  quantities  of  this  wax  have  been  purchased  from 
the  Killemook  Indians  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company 
and  individuals  ;  the  writer  also  obtained  a  number  of 
pounds  of  the  same  article  from  them  while  there,  and 
was  informed  by  them,  that  whenever  the  south-west 
storms  prevail,  it  is  driven  on  shore.  While  living 
on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  an  Indian  girl  who  lived 
in  the  family  brought  in  a  piece  one  day  which  had 
drifted  around  with  the  tide,  and  lodged  upon  the  beach 
of  the  river;  this  was  as  large  as  a  man's  fist,  and  having 
been  lodged  in  the  mouth  of  some  small  stream,  which 
enters  the  ocean  somewhere  to  the  south  of  the  river, 
and  stuck  between  stones,  or  wood,  as  was  evident 
from  the  prints  remaining  in  it,  it  was  completely  petri- 
fied. The  writer  presented  it  to  Rev.  Dr.  Richmond 
when  he  left  the  country,  in  the  autumn  of  1842.  And, 
perhaps,  it  may  not  be  considered  out  of  place  if  I  here 
state,  that  many  of  the  streams  of  this  country  possess 
petrifying  qualities,  insomuch,  that  whole  trees  have 
been  found  in  a  state  of  perfect  petrifaction.  And  the 
writer  has  now  in  his  possession  a  piece  of  bark  of  the 
fir  tree,  which  retains  its  natural  appearance,  but  will, 
notwithstanding,  emit  sparks  when  smitten  with  steel, 
like  the  flint. 

In  March,  1833,  a  Japanese  junk  was  cast  away 
fifteen  miles  to  the  south  of  Cape  Flattery.  Out  ot 
seventeen  men,  only  three  were  saved .   In  the  (blowing 


I  1 


108 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


■!  i 


f 


May,  Captain  McNeil,  of  the  Lama,  brought  the  three 
survivors  to  Fort  Vancouver;  and  from  thence  they 
-were,  in  the  following  October,  sent  to  England,  to  be 
forwarded  to  their  own  country. 

From  this  wreck  the  writer  has  a  beautiful  China 
flower-pot,  and  a  tea-cup,  which  were  obtained  from 
the  Inaians,  having  been  in  their  possession  since  the 
time  of  the  wreck.  :  r 

In  the  same  year  eleven  Japanese  in  distress  were 
drifted  in  a  junk  to  Oahu,  Sandwich  Islands. — Was 
this  the  way  in  which  the  American  continent  and  the 
Islands  of  the  Ocean  became  peopled  ? 

The  epidemic  ague^  which  has  already  been  men- 
tioned, and  of  which  more  will  be  said  hereafter,  which 
has  swept  away  great  numbers  of  the  natives,  and  proved 
an  annual  scourge  to  the  white  man,  commenced, 
according  to  the  best  authorities,  in  1830.  Before  that 
time  it  had  never  been  known  in  the  country,  not  even 
a  single  case.  The  Indians  account  for  the  origin  of 
this  scourge  in  the  foUowinff  manner.  The  writer  will 
state  it  just  as  he  received  it  from  one  of  them.  At 
the  time  of  its  commencement  there  was  an  American 
vessel  in  the  river,  commanded  by  Captain  Domanis, 
for  the  purpose  of  trading  for  furs.  This,  of  course, 
brought  on  a  competition  between  Domanis  and  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company ;  and  as  the  captain  of  the 
vessel  paid  a  high  price  for  furs,  the  Indians  professed 
to  bring  him  all  the  beaver,  &c.  But  as  the  captain 
gave  more  for  small  skins  than  the  company,  they 
brought  him  all  the  small  ones,  and  took  all  the  large 
ones  to  the  company.  But,  say  they,  when  Captain 
Domanis  became  acquainted  with  this  fact,  he  was 
"bias  silix,"  that  is,  great  angry;  and  that  he  might 
be  revenged  on  them  for  deceiving  him  thus,  he  hung 
up  some  bad  sail  in  a  tree,  and  then  opened,  or  un- 
corked, a  small  vial,  and  let  out  the  ague  and  fever 
upon  them,  which  has  carried  off  thousands,  and  con- 
tinues its  ravages  still.  The  writer  laboured  to  reason 
them  out  of  their  folly,  but  it  was  of  no  avail,  for  they 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


109 


said  that  there  were  whites  in  the  country  at  the  same 
time  that  told  them  it  was  all  true ! 

About  this  time  a  gentleman  from  Scotland,  Mr.  David 
Doudas,  visited  Oregon,  under  the  patronage  of  the 
London  Horticultural  Society,  for  the  purpose  of  scien- 
tific researches ;  and  after  fulfilling  his  mission  returned 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  unfortunately  lost 
his  life.  Sorie  more  particulars  connected  with  his 
death  will  be  given  hereafter. 

The  next  party  of  American  traders  which  crossed 
the  Rocky  Mountains  after  the  abandonment  of  Astoria, 
was  under  the  command  of  Captain  Wyeth,  in  1832. 
This  is  the  same  gentleman  who  headed  the  party  across 
the  mountains  when  the  Messrs.  J.  and  D.  Lee  and  their 
associates  came  to  the  country  as  missionaries,  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  in  1834. 


SV.:^ 


{53.*.. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Causes  which  induced  the  establishment  of  the  Oregon  Mission — Dr. 
Fisk  enlists  in  its  favour — Rev.  Jason  and  Daniel  Lee  appointed  mission- 
aries — Missionary  meetings,  in  furtherance  of  the  enterprise,  held — Mr. 
Jason  Lee  goes  to  Boston  to  consult  with  Captain  Wyeth  as  to  the  propriety 
of  establismng  the  mission — Messrs.  Lee  set  out  for  the  west,  and  arrive 
at  St.  Louis— Join  a  party,  who  start  for  the  Rocky  Mountains — Description 
of  the  party,  and  of  their  method  of  travelling — Kansas  Indians — The 
antelope — Buflfalo — A  company  of  emigrants  attacked  by  Indians. 

An  event  took  place  in  the  year  1832  which  directed 
the  attention  of  the  American  churches  to  Oregon,  as 
a  vast  field  of  benevolent  enterprise,  ripe  for  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Gospel  among  its  benighted  inhabitants. 
Four  Indians,  from  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
belonging  to  one  of  the  tribes  (for  there  are  several) 
who  flatten  their  heads,  probably  the  "Nez  perc6" 
tribe,  accompanied  some  of  the  white  trappers  from  the 
buffalo  country  down  to  the  city  of  St.  Louis.  The 
resident  United  States^  Indian  agent,  General  Clarke 


f« 


\i 


ii^ 


no 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


.  -t 


I'i 


was  known  to  them  as  the  first  great  chief  of  the  white 
men  who  visited  their  nation.  He  had  been  seen  by 
their  fathers,  who  had  often  told  them  of  his  greatness, 
and  it  was  natural  they  should  desire  to  see  him.  They 
also  expected  to  return  to  their  own  land,  and  make 
known  their  interview,  as  among  the  most  interesting 
occurrences  of  their  toilsome  journey.  Having  great 
confidence  in  him,  they  made  mquiries  about  the  book 
of  which  they  had  been  informed  by  the  hunters,  which 
the  Great  Spirit  had  given  to  the  white  men  to  teach 
them  his  will.  The  answers  they  received  were  in 
accordance  with  what  had  been  told  them.  The  writer 
saw  General  Clark  in  1834,  two  years  after  their  visit, 
and  learned  from  him  these  particulars  in  relation  to  it. 
Two  of  them  became  sick,  and  died  in  St.  Louis,  and 
the  other  two  started  to  return  to  their  own  land.  It 
has  been  reported  that  one  of  them  died  on  the  way, 
and  the  other  reached  his  tribe.  As  to  the  truth  of  this 
report,  some  have  doubts.  That  both  perished  in  the 
wilderness,  the  victims  of  sickness,  famine,  or  war, 
appears  more  probable.  A  high-wrought  account  of 
the  visit  of  these  Indians  to  St.  Louis,  by  some  writer 
in  the  vicinity,  was  published  in  the  Christian  Advocate 
and  Journal,  New- York  city,  in  March,  1833.  This 
is  the  most  important  periodical  in  the  Methodist  Epis- 
copal Church.  The  sum  was  this  :  that  these  "  red 
men"  were  from  the  Flat-head  tribe,  in  the  interior  of 
Oregon,  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  from  whom  they 
had  been  sent  by  a  council  of  their  chiefs,  as  delegates  to 
St.  Louis,  to  inquire  concerning  the  Word  of  the  Great 
Spirit ;  that  in  prosecution  of  their  great  object  they  had 
travelled  two  thousand  miles,  through  rugged  mountains 
and  barren  plains  and  dangerous  enemies,  enduring 
cold  and  heat,  thirst  and  hunger,  and  many  hardships, 
and  reached  their  destination  in  safety ;  and  that  having 
made  known  the  object  of  their  visit  to  General  Clark, 
and  gained  the  information  they  sought,  two  of  them 
were  snatched  away  by  death,  not  being  permitted  to 
carry  back  the  "  glad  tidings"  to  their  anxious  country- 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Ill 


men.  These  incorrect  statements  receiving  the  fullest 
confidence,  many  believed  that  the  day  had  come,  and 
that  the  call  was  imperative,  to  send  the  gospel  to 
Oregon.  First  among  these  was  that  excellent  man  of 
God,  "whose  praise  is  in  all  the  chm-ches,"  Wilbur 
Fisk,  D.  D.,  at  that  time  president  of  the  Wesleyan 
University,  Conn.  Alive  to  everything  favourable  to 
the  advancement  of  the  kingdom  of  Christ,  and  seeing 
before  the  church  "an  open  door"  to  the  "red  man" 
of  the  "  far  west,"  the  "  fields  there  white  to  harvest," 
he  could  not  be  silent.  The  Macedonian  cry,  as  it 
seemed,  reached  him  as  a  divine  mandate.  Immedi- 
ately his  voice  was  heard  rousing  the  churches ;  es- 
pecially did  he  urge  on  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church 
an  immediate  response.  His  appeal  was  heard  :  and 
the  Missionary  Society  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  determined  to  attempt  the  establishment  of  a 
mission  among  the  Flat-head  tribe  of  Indians,  in  Oregon ; 
that  tribe,  for  reasons  before  stated,  appearing  to  de- 
mand their  first  missionary  efforts  in  the  country.  The 
mission  at  first  was  designated  by  the  name  of  that 

ricular  tribe ;  but  since,  the  name  has  been  changed 
that  of  the  territory.  A  call  was  soon  made  for 
men  to  engage  in  the  projected  mission.  Two  men, 
natives  of  Stanstead,  Lower  Canada,  the  Rev.  Jason 
Lee,  and  some  time  after  his  nephew,  Daniel  Lee,  the 
writer,  offered  themselves  to  the  board  to  labour  in  the 
proposed  mission,  and  they  were  accepted.  The  former 
became  a  member  of  the  N.  E.  Conference  at  its  session 
in  1833,  when  he  was  also  ordained  to  the  office  of  a 
deacon,  and  then  to  that  of  an  elder,  in  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church.  The  writer  had  travelled  more 
than  two  years  in  the  New-Hampshire  Conference,  was 
in  full  connection,  and  was  ordained  a  deacon  in  1833. 
Subsequently,  at  the  Baltimore  Conference,  in  1834, 
he  received  elder's  orders.  October  10th,  1833,  the 
missionaries  met  at  New- York,  to  make  arrangements 
for  as  early  a  departure  to  their  appropriate  field  as 
possible.     On  the  16th  the  missionary  board  held  a 


f  ■  i 


^Mm 


■  ■  T" 


112 


T£N  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


|i  * 


special  meeting,  in  view  of  the  mission,  and  appropriated 
$3000  to  be  employed  in  its  first  outfit.  They  also 
directed  the  securing  the  assistance  of  two  laymen,  to 
add  efficiency  to  the  effort ;  and  that  the  missionaries 
should  travel  and  hold  meetings,  and  raise  funds  for 
their  missionary  enterprise :  nrst  going  south  as  far 
as  the  capital,  and  then  west,  to  join  a  company  of 
traders  and  trappers  who  might  be  going  mto  the 
mountains  the  next  spring.  Previous  to  this,  however, 
very  deeply-interesting  missionary  meetings  had  been 
held  in  New-Haven  and  Middletown,  Conn.,  at  which 
the  late  departed  Dr.  Fisk,  of  sacred  memory,  lent 
his  influence.  November  20th,  a  farewell  missionary 
meeting  was  held  in  the  city  of  New- York,  in  the 
Forsyth-street  church.  Bp.  Hedding  presided.  Dr. 
M'Auley,  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  several  others, 
addressed  the  meeting.  We  were  now  ready,  and  about 
to  go  south,  pursuant  to  the  directions  oi  the  board, 
when  an  event  came  to  our  knowledge  which  caused 
the  postponement  of  our  intended  journey  for  more  than 
two  months.  A  gentleman,  known  as  Captain  Wyetht 
had  lately  arrived  in  Boston,  Mass.,  with  two  Indian 
boys,  from  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountairs.  The  board 
judged  that  he  would  be  able  to  give  some  necessary 
information  regarding  Oregon  as  a  field  for  missionary 
labour,  and  of  the  means  of  reaching  it.  This  gentle- 
man. Captain  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth,  who  resides  now, 
as  the  writer  has  been  informed,  in  Cambridge,  near 
Boston,  Mass.,  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  Oregon 
the  preceding  year,  to  explore  the  country  for  the 
purpose  of  prospective  trade,  to  be  carried  on  by  a 
Dusiness  company  formed  in  Boston,  to  trap  and  buy 
beaver  in  the  mountains,  and  fish  for  salmon  in  the 
Columbia.  Their  plan  was  to  send  an  annual  ship 
with  supplies  to  the  Columbia  River,  and  freight  her 
with  salmon  and  furs  on  her  return  voyage.  Mr.  Jason 
Lee  being  directed  by  the  board  to  proceed  to  Boston, 
and  seek  an  interview  with  Captain  Wyeth,  immediately 
left  New- York  for  that  purpose. 


TIN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


113 


The  information  which  was  famished  by  Captain 
Wyeth,  of  the  state  of  the  Indians  in  Oregon,  deepened 
the  impression  of  its  importance  as  a  field  of  missionary 
effort.  The  company  with  which  he  was  connected 
was  about  to  send  a  vessel  to  the  Cohimbia  River,  and 
thus  an  opportunity  was  given  us  to  forward  the  ne- 
cessary outfit  for  the  commencement  of  our  mission. 
The  vessel  was  a  brig,  the  Maydacre,  of  Boston. 
Captain  Wyeth  was  to  recross  the  Rocky  Mountains 
in  command  of  a  party  of  men  in  the  employ  of  the 
company  the  following  spring,  and  we  could  go  with 
them  in  safety.  Thus  was  the  way  prepared  in  a 
manner  entirely  unanticipated.  January  29th,  1834, 
Mr.  Jason  Lee  having  returned  from  Boston,  we  went 
to  the  south,  holding  meetings  for  the  benefit  of  the 
mission  in  Philadelphia,  Wilmington,  Baltimore,  and 
several  other  places,  with  very  encouraging  results. 
The  enterprise  found  many  friends,  not  only  in  that 
branch  of  ourZion  to  which  the  missionaries  were  united, 
but  many  others  also  manifested  a  heartfelt  interest,  in 
various  ways,  to  further  the  benevolent  object. 

Early  in  March  Mr.  Jason  Lee  left  for  the  west. 
The  writer,  having  attended  the  Baltimore  Conference, 
followed  him  on  the  19th.  At  Pittsburg  he  was  joined 
by  Mr.  Cyrus  Shepard,  from  Lynn,  Mass.,  one  of  the 
laymen  engaged  in  the  mission.  From  this  city  they 
took  passage  to  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  where  the  writer  arrived 
in  the  early  part  of  April,  a  few  days  later.  The  ne- 
cessary mountain  outnt  had  already  been  sent  up  the 
Missouri  in  a  steamboat,  in  the  charge  of  Mr.  Shepard, 
near  the  place  where  the  company  for  the  mountains 
was  to  form,  and  make  the  necessary  arrangements 

?revious  to  the  commencement  of  the  journey.  Mr. 
ason  Lee  and  myself  proceeded  to  Independence  on 
horseback.  This  is  on  the  western  border  of  the  state, 
and  the  point  of  departure  whence  many  a  party  of  fur 
traders  and  mountain  trappers  have  set  off  on  their 
hazardous  adventures.  A  layman,  Mr.  P.  L.  Edwards, 
of  Richmond,  near  Independence,  was  added  to  the 


< 


^\ 


\% 


I^ 


i 


I 


U4 


TEN   YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


number,  increasing  the  mission  family  to  four;  and  Mr. 
CM.  Walker,  of  the  same  place,  was  hired  a  year,  to 
cross  the  mountains,  and  assist  in  commencing  the 
mission.  After  several  days  spent  in  rigging  packs  and 
pack-saddles,  and  making  other  provisions  for  our 
route,  on  the  27th  of  April  everything  was  in  readiness 
for  our  journey. 

On  the  28th  we  raised  camp,  and  began  our  march 
toward  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  whole  party  num- 
bered between  fifty  and  sixty  men,  all  mounted  on 
horses  or  mules,  and  armed  with  rifles.  Most  of  them 
had  each  a  powder-horn  or  a  flask,  a  large  leathern 
pouch  for  bullets  hung  at  his  side,  and  buckled  close 
to  his  body  with  a  leathern  belt,  in  which  hung  a  scab- 
bard of  the  same  material,  bearing  a  "  scalping-knife," 
that  savage  weapon  whose  very  name  is  a  terror.  The 
mules  and  horses  altogether  were  over  one  hundred  and 
fifty.  Nearly  one-third  were  for  the  men,  and  about 
two-thirds  carried  packs,  each  man  leading  two  of  them. 
Mr.  J.  Lee,  besides  the  five  horses  to  ride,  one  for  each 
person  with  him,  and  four  to  pack,  took  some  cows, 
and  two  of  them  made  the  journey  to  Oregon.  Their 
milk  was  quite  a  luxury  on  the  way. 

Captain  Wyeth,  who  headed  the  party,  had  a  gentle- 
man of  Boston,  Captain  Thyng,  for  his  assistant.  Two 
naturalists  were  also  in  company,  Mr.  Townsend,  of 
Philadelphia,  and  Mr.  Nuttall,  the  gentleman  mention- 
ed in  a  preceding  chapter,  who  accompanied  Mr.  Hunt 
some  W8y  up  the  Missouri  in  1811 .  His  characteristic 
ardour  in  his  favourite  pursuit  had  not  been  lessened 
by  the  lapse  of  three  and  twenty  years.  Our  encamp- 
ments were  generally  near  some  stream  of  water,  where 
there  was  good  grass  for  our  animals ;  and  our  tents, 
eight  in  number,  were  pitched  in  a  circular  form,  en- 
closing a  space  large  enough  to  contain  all  our  horses 
and  mules,  fastened  to  pickets.  These  are  sticks  more 
than  a  foot  long  and  two  inches  wide,  one  for  every 
horse  or  mule.  They  are  driven  into  the  ground,  and  are 
designed  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  animals  in  case  of 


in! 


the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


115 


any  sudden  attempt  of  the  Indians  to  frighten  them 
away.  A  regular  guard  was  kept  up,  and  relieved 
every  four  hours  during  the  night ;  and  when  the  horses 
were  without  the  camp  feeding,  morning  and  evening, 
a  watch  was  set  near  them.  One  night,  before  we 
reached  the  Kanzas  Indians,  who  are  located  seven 
days'  journey  from  Independence,  from  some  unknown 
cause  our  horses  took  fright,  and  many  of  them  being 
loose  within  the  camp,  we  not  having  yet  come  to  the 
dangerous  country,  they  rushed  out  and  bounded  off  at 
full  speed  into  the  plain.  Instantly  some  of  the  men 
mounted  other  horses  and  pursued  the  fugitives,  whose 
tramping  was  heard  in  the  distance.  They  soon  over- 
took them,  and  one  rode  ahead  as  a  leader,  who  gradu- 
ally turned  them  in  a  long  circuitous  sweep,  heading 
them  toward  the  camp,  where  they  soon  arrived  with 
them  in  safety,  dissipating  the  busy  fears  of  an  anxious 
hour,  and  shedding  a  smile  of  satisfaction  on  every 
face.  We  generally  travelled  about  twenty  miles  a 
day,  halting  near  noon  to  bait  and  take  dinner,  and  en- 
camping early  to  give  our  animals  time  to  fill  them- 
selves without  the  camp  before  dusk,  when  they  were 
all  brought  within,  where  they  remained  till  morning ; 
then  the  cry,  "  Turn  out !"  was  heard  from  Captain 
Wyeth.  Soon  the  horses  were  seen  without,  and  the 
breakfast  fires  before  the  tents.  Each  of  the  eight 
messes  into  which  the  company  was  divided,  embraced 
from  five  to  eight  persons  a-piece.  Fried  bacon  and 
dough  fried  in  the  fat,  with  tea  or  coffee,  made  our 
meal ;  around  which  we  sat  on  the  ground  in  good  In- 
dian style,  and  braced  up  our  craving  stomachs  for  the 
toils  of  day.  Each  mess  now  prepared  to  move :  tents 
were  struck,  packs  and  saddles  put  in  order.  "  Catch 
up  !".  cried  Captain  Wyeth,  and  the  whole  camp  was 
instantly  in  motion  to  gather  the  animals,  pack  up, 
mount,  and  away.  Captain  W.  led  the  way,  and  Cap- 
tain Thyng  brought  up  the  rear.  The  country  over 
which  we  travelled  to  the  Kanzas  River,  and  thence  to 
the  Platte,  is  very  beautiful,  and  most  of  it  has  a  rich 


$1 


\mm^ 


:  ''Iff ;''  I  f 


M: 


lie 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


soil.  It  is  a  kind  of  rolling  prairie,  in  some  parts  thin- 
ly  wooded  with  oak,  and,  along  its  rivulets,  fringed 
with  the  cotton-wood  or  balm  of  Gilead. 

The  Kanzas  Indians  are  remarkable  for  shaving 
their  heads :  otherwise  they  have  fine  forms ;  their 
foreheads,  in  particular,  are  high  and  well  developed. 
We  encamped  a  night  near  one  of  their  villages,  where 
we  were  greatly  annoyed  by  their  ravenous  dogs,  which 
were  attracted  to  our  tents  by  the  hope  of  a  good  meal 
at  our  expense.  They  were  but  too  successful,  for  the 
next  morning  we  found  they  had  robbed  us  of  a  large 
share  of  our  bacon,  for  which  we  could  get  no  satis- 
faction. 

Leaving  the  Kanzas  we  reached  the  Platte  in  thirteen 
days,  past  the  middle  of  May,  and  pursued  our  course 
on  the  south  side  above  the  junction  of  the  Forks.  The 
Platte,  as  its  name  implies,  is  very  shallow,  and  in  some 
places  more  than  a  mile  wide.  The  bottom  is  a  quick- 
sand, and  in  fording,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  in  motion 
to  prevent  sinking.  The  water  has  a  whitish  appear- 
ance, and  a  thick  sediment  will  deposite  itself  in  a  vessel 
in  which  it  stands.  The  banks  are  low,  and  a  level 
bottom,  covered  generally  with  grass,  extends  a  mile, 
more  or  less,  on  either  side,  terminated  by  hills.  The 
country  is  destitute  of  timber.  The  beautiful  antelope 
inhabits  this  region,  and  its  flesh  made  a  considerable 
part  of  our  supply  of  food  to  the  Forks  of  the  Platte, 
the  border  of  the  buffalo  range.  The  buffaloes  have 
a  stately  appearance.  Their  shaggy  heads,  necks,  and 
high  humps  above  their  shoulders,  declining  back  to 
tlieir  tails,  with  their  great  size,  give  them  an  awkward 
and  terrific  aspect,  that  might  awe  a  stranger  and  pre- 
vent his  approach.  They  will  "  show  fight"  in  self- 
defence  when  wounded  and  hard  pushed  by  the  hunt- 
ers. They  are  fleet  on  a  race,  and  it  is  a  good  horse 
that  can  beat  them  on  a  long  one.  Their  flesh  is  ex- 
cellent, equal,  if  not  superior,  to  the  best  beef,  and  has 
long  supplied  the  surrounding  Indians  and  the  white 
trappers  with  the  means  of  supporting  life  in  a  region 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


117 


Otherwise  uninhabitable.  They  are  diminishing  rapidly ; 
but  yet  imnaense  herds  of  many  thousands  range  from 
the  Forks  of  the  Platte  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Lewis 
River,  over  a  tract  extending  far  north  and  south  of  the 
general  thoroughfare  to  Oregon.  Crossing  the  south 
fork  of  the  Platte,  Captain  Wyeth  led  his  company  in 
a  north-west  direction  to  the  north  fork,  which  he  was 
to  follow  to  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
Black  Hills  lifted  their  summits  to  the  north-west  on 
our  right.  Having  crossed  the  north  fork,  we  left  the 
river,  whose  course  had  been  our  guide  for  sixteen  days, 
and  proceeding  westward,  we  reached  the  Sweet  Water, 
one  of  its  small  tributaries,  at  Rock  Independence, 
June  8th.  This  is  a  vast  block  of  granite,  covering 
from  one  to  three  acres,  and  rising  some  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  above  the  ground.  A  fourth  of  July  being 
once  observed  here  by  a  party  of  traders,  they  gave  the 
rock  the  name  it  now  bears.  In  the  year  1842,  as  a 
party  of  emigrants  were  passing  this  rock,  two  gentle- 
men tarried  behind  the  main  body  to  cut  their  initials 
upon  it.  For  this  purpose  they  set  by  their  rifles,  and 
were  busily  engaged  in  making  themselves  immor- 
tal, by  leaving  their  humble  representatives  on  this 
grand  portal  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — when,  in  the 
midst  of  their  labour,  they  were  suddenly  surprised 
by  a  large  party  of  Indians,  who  seized  their  rifles 
and  horses,  and  then  made  them  prisoners.  Some 
of  the  party  seemed  determined  to  kill  them  on  the 
spot,  but  were  prevented  by  the  authority  of  their 
chief.  After  learning  that  the  party  to  which  they  be- 
longed had  gone  on  up  the  Sweet  Water,  they  dashed 
forward  on  the  trail,  and  soon  overtook  them  ;  but  be- 
fore this,  their  approach  had  been  discovered,  and  the 
party  had  thrown  itself  into  as  good  a  posture  of  de- 
fence as  they  possibly  could.  When  the  Indians  had 
come  within  a  short  distance,  they  made  a  halt,  and  a 
few,  leaving  the  main  body,  went  forward  into  the  space 
between,  and  held  a  parley  with  some  of  the  whites, 
which  resulted  in  the  restoration  of  their  prisoners,  and 


•  'i . 


i 


h 


118 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


a  peaceable  separation — the  Indians  to  the  chase,  and 
the  emigrants  to  their  journey.  From  Rock  Indepen- 
dence, Capt.  W.  pursued  his  way  several  days  up  the 
Sweet  Water,  crossing  it  many  times,  its  steep  banks 
compelling  him  to  take  sometimes  one  side  and  then 
the  other  of  its  zigzag  course.  This  stream  cuts  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  opens  through  them  a  highway 
to  Oregon.  Some  of  their  snowy  tops  are  seen  to  the 
south.  Leaving  the  Sweet  Water,  we  soon  came  to  the 
Big  Sandy,  a  branch  of  the  Colorado  which  flows  into 
the  Gulf  of  California,  to  which  we  arrived  soon  after, 
and  crossing  it,  proceeding  still  westward,  we  came  to 
Hain  Fork,  one  of  the  tributaries,  eleven  days  from 
Rock  Independence,  June  19th,  and  here  we  rendez- 
voused. •      '   "  - 


.>>v./ 


CHAPTER  XI. 


1^**=!*  •  ■; 


Rendezvous — Description  of  country — ^Hunting  and  battle  ^und  of  the 
Indians — The  party  take  up  their  line  of  march — Soda  Spring — Erect  a 
fort — Procure  oufTalo  meat — ^Accident — Fort  Hall  sold  to  Hudson's  Bay 
Company — Missionaries  join  another  party — Description  of  country  and 
of  Indians — Blue  Mountains — Travellers  arrive  at  Fort  Wallah-wall^ — 
Summary  of  travel — ^Arrive  at  Vancouver — Location  for  mission  selected. 

This  was  the  "rendezvous"  of  the  trappers  and 
traders  this  year.  Here  we  rested  twelve  days  to  re- 
cruit our  jaded  animals.  Here  is  the  proper  place  to 
insert  a  brief  description  of  the  surrounding  region. 

The  soil  in  the  valley  of  the  Colorado,  or,  as  it  is 
generally  called  at  this  place,  Green  River,  is  good ; 
and  grass  is  quite  abundant ;  but  the  temperature  is 
too  low  for  the  purposes  of  cultivation.  Snow-capped 
peaks  and  naked  hills  rise  in  boundless  masses  around 
you  on  every  side,  the  birth-place  of  the  great  rivers, 
that  hold  in  their  arms  our  continent.  We  are  still  with- 
in the  great  slaughter-house,  where  the  white  and  red 
butchers  of  the  buffalo  have  dealt  death  with  the  rifle 
and  the  bow,  a  thousand  miles  on  every  hand,  whiten- 


in 
of 


the 
be 
8od( 
but 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


119 


ing  the  valleys  and  the  plains  with  the  bones  of  myriads 
whose  tread  once  made  the  desert  earth  groan  beneath 
their  ponderous  weight.  This  region  has  not  only  been 
the  hunting-ground  of  a  hundred  tribes  of  red  men ;  but 
their  great  battle-field,  on  which  they  have  wielded  the 
tomahawk,  and  sped  the  arrow  into  the  head  and  heart 
of  many  a  foe,  whose  blood  has  reddened  the  parched 
earth,  and  whose  scalps  have  been  born  away  in  diabo- 
lical triumph.  Are  they  indeed  the  sons  of  Isnmael,  that 
their  hand  must  be  against  every  man  ?  When  will 
their  bloody  strife  end?  When  Christianity  enters. 
Without  that,  contention  will  continue,  and  only  end  in 
extermination ! 

The  Colorado,  which  runs  south  to  its  junction  with 
Grand  River,  a  tributary  rising  near  the  source  of  the 
south  fork  of  the  Platte,  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles 
in  length,  flows  thence  south-west,  seven  hundred  miles, 
to  the  Gulf  of  California,  being  navigable  only  thirty 
miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  said  that  two  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries once  attempted  to  descend  this  river,  and  have 
never  been  heard  of  since ;  and  that  a  party  of  trappers 
adventured  so  far  down  its  deep  dark  chasm  as  to  en- 
danger their  lives,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty 
that  they  extricated  themselves  from  their  almost  hope- 
less dilemma.  Early  in  the  month  of  July,  having  been 
in  camp  twelve  days,  we  left  our  retreat  in  the  Valley 
of  Green  River,  and  took  up  our  line  of  march  again 
westward  to  the  waters  of  Bear  River,  which  empties 
into  the  Salt  Lake,  lying  to  the  south-west.  The 
country  is  hilly,  soil  poor,  and  timber  scarce  We  fol- 
lowed the  river  several  days,  as  far  as  the  Soda  Spring. 
This  is  the  wonder  of  every  visiter.  This  spring  is  on 
the  north-west  side  of  Bear  River,  twenty  rods  from  the 
shore,  and  has  some  half  a  dozen  openings,  from^ve  to 
eight  feet  over.  The  water  is  clear,  and  the  escape  of 
the  gas  through  it  keeps  it  boiling  with  a  noise  that  can 
be  heard  several  yards.  Its  taste  resembles  that  of  the 
soda-water  in  the  shops.  They  have  no  visible  outlet, 
but  seem  to  have  a  subterraneous  connection  with  the 


<  ■  ',;  ■' 


MWWM 

^p 

III 

h 


•TPW* 


ilH 

AM 


120 


TKN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


;i:i 


river.  Some  distance  below  is  an  intennitting  spring, 
which  throws  out  water  violently  from  an  opening  in  a 
rock  in  such  a  manner  as  to  nave  received  the  ap- 
propriate name  of  Steamboat.  Between  these  two 
spnngs,  along  the  surface  of  the  river,  the  water  is  con- 
tinually agitated  by  the  large  quantities  of  gas  escaping 
through  it ;  and  it  ought  to  be  also  stated,  that  the  water 
of  the  last  spring  described  is  also  strongly  impregna- 
ted with  soda,  and  has  a  temperature  of  ninety  degrees. 
The  surrounding  soil  and  grass  are  good.  Here  we 
left  Bear  River,  and  a  few  days'  march  brought  us  to 
one  of  the  branches  of  Snake  River,  Ross's  Fork. 
Some  small  trouts  were  caught  here,  and  were  a  wel- 
come exchange  for  dried  buffalo  meat,  which  had  been 
our  chief  food  many  days.  This  is  the  western  border 
of  the  present  buffalo  range,  where  we  emerge  from 
the  mountains,  and  begin  our  descent  to  the  Pacific. 
Nearly  forty  days  had  been  consumed  in  the  journey  over 
them,  and  though  the  most  dangerous  part  of  the  way,  no 
enemy  assailed  our  camp,  and  no  evil  was  suffered  to 
approach  us.  About  the  middle  of  July,  Capt.  Wyeth 
arrived  at  the  Snake  River,  and  after  selecting  a  site 
for  a  fort,  a  part  of  his  men  were  employed  in  its 
erection,  and  the  rest  went  out  on  a  buffalo  hunt  to 
procure  the  necessary  supplies  of  meat  for  the  rest  of 
the  journey.  Messrs.  Edwards  and  Walker  made  a 
part  of  this  party.  After  being  absent  about  two 
weeks,  they  returned  with  a  good  stock  of  dried  meat, 
and  diffused  joy  through  the  whole  canip.  Soon  after 
our  arrival  at  this  place,  Mr.  Thomas  M'Kay,  having 
a  trading  party  under  his  command,  in  the  employ  of 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  came  upon  our  trail,  and 
soon  reached  the  camp  of  Capt.  W.    It  gave  us  great 

Sleasure  to  meet  a  friend  in  a  stranger,  in  such  a  place, 
[r.  Jason  Lee  preached  once  on  the  sabbath  in  a 
grove  near  his  camp,  and  hvj  very  generousl}^  made  a 
present  of  a  sack  oi  flour  to  the  missionaries,  w'j'ch 
was  a  very  seasonable  and  unexpected  relief;  and 
when  they  left  Fort  Hall,  he  was  with  them  several 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


121 


days'  journey.  On  the  evening  of  the  day  that  Mr. 
Lee  preached,  one  of  Mr.  M'Kay's  men,  a  Canadian, 
as  he  was  riding  very  fast,  was  rode  against  by  another 
man,  and  so  badly  injured  as  to  die  in  a  short  time. 
He  was  buried  near  the  fort.  He  left  several  children, 
two  of  whom  are  in  the  Oregon  mission  school  in  the 
Walamet,  and  one,  Lizette  Carponca,  resides  in  Lan- 
singville  in  the  state  of  New-York.  This  gentleman  is 
the  son  of  Mr.  M'Kay  who  fell  in  the  Tonquin  on  the 
north-west  coast  in  1810.  While  at  Fort  Hall,  one  of 
the  Kinse  Indians  in  Mr.  M'Kay's  party  made  a  present 
of  a  horse  to  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  and  from  him  received 
some  present  in  turn.  The  horse  was  very  serviceable 
in  performing  the  rest  of  the  journey,  as  some  of  the 
horses  with  which  we  set  out  were  quite  "  used  up." 
An  extensive  plain  covered  with  grass,  and  intersected 
with  creeks,  and  pure  mountain  rivulets,  surrounds 
Fort  Hall,  stretching  many  miles  along  the  river,  and 
several  miles  back  to  the  distant  hills  on  the  south. 
This  establishment  did  not  long  remain  in  the  pos- 
session of  its  original  proprietors,  but  was  sold  to  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  the  whole  enterprise,  to 
which  Capt.  Wyeth  had  devoted  himself  for  four  or 
five  years,  with  great  ardour  and  perseverance,  and  at 
an  expensive  outlay,  from  which  very  little  profits  were 
realized,  was  abandoned,  and  the  whole  fur  trade  revert- 
ed again  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Leaving  Fort  Hall  about  the  1st  of  August,  and 
Captain  Wyeth  to  complete  the  structure,  and  then  to 
follow  us  with  the  two  naturalists  and  part  of  his  men, 
some  of  them  being  left  in  charge  of  the  fort,  we  took 
up  again  our  line  of  march,  and  proceeded  down  the 
south  side  of  Snake  River. 

Our  new  party  consisted  of  Mr.  M'Kay,  his  Cana- 
dians, with  their  bows  and  arrows,  wives,  mounted  in  the 
fashionable  native  style,  astride,  and  bearing  muskets, 
and  their  children  confined  to  a  board,  and  hung  on  the 
horn  of  their  saddles,  or  lashed  on  horseback  alone, 
and  some  Indians  with  their  squaws  and  children,  in  the 

6 


m^rn'm 


^^     ■: 


m» 


i>r;; 


1.  \ 


J  "i, 
S>  III  ! 


n    « 


I 


122 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


same  order :  an  English  half-pay  officer,  Captain  Stu- 
art, with  his  servants,  who  had  been  some  time  roam- 
ing in  the  mountains,  was  also  of  the  party.  In  this 
way  we  went  on  a  few  days  through  sandy  plains,  with 
scarcely  sufficient  grass  for  our  horses,  toiling  through 
immense  tracts  of  mountain  sage,  or,  more  properly, 
wormwood,  an  ugly  shrub  from  two  to  six  feet  high. 
Mr.  M'Kay  remained  in  the  Snake  country  to  trap  and 
trade  beaver,  where  we  parted  from  him ;  and  with  some 
of  the  Indians  of  his  party,  and  Captain  Stuart,  pursued 
our  way  down  the  river,  and  on  its  banks  we  made  fre- 
quent encampments.  We  saw  occasionally  a  few  In- 
dians engaged  in  catching  salmon.  For  some  of  these 
we  gave  them  fish-hooks  in  exchange,  on  which  they 
appeared  to  set  a  high  value.  They  appeared  very 
poor,  almost  naked.  The  Snake  Indians  are  reputed 
friendly  to  the  whites.  The  country  is  generally  hilly, 
in  some  parts  mountainous,  with  some  rich  intervening 
plains,  and  beautiful  valleys.  Considerable  timber 
crowns  the  more  elevated  portions.  Hot  days,  cold 
nights,  and  a  remarkably  dry  atmosphere  are  character- 
istics here.  Before  reaching  the  Blue  Mountains,  we 
crossed  a  long,  wide,  rich  plain,  led  by  the  Kinse  In- 
dian who  presented  the  horse  to  Mr.  Jason  Lee  at 
Fort  Hall,  to  a  village  of  his  tribe  situated  on  a  small 
branch  of  the  Snake  River,  which  rises  in  the  eastern 
part  of  those  mountains.  Their  dwellings  were  lodges 
made  of  the  skins  of  the  buffalo  deprived  of  the  hair, 
and  then  made  soft,  and  several  of  them  sewed  together. 
They  are  set  up  in  the  form  of  a  cone,  around  a  num- 
ber of  long  smooth  poles,  used  as  a  kind  of  frame. 
Their  width  on  the  ground,  and  their  height,  are  about 
twelve  feet,  with  an  opening  at  the  top  to  permit  the 
smoke  to  escape,  and  to  admit  the  light.  These  are 
taken  with  them  in  their  migrations.  Here  we  were 
content  to  pass  the  night,  and  the  hospitality  shown  us 
was  worthy  their  pretensions  as  a  governing  tribe,  and 
their  acknowledged  superiority  by  the  tribes  around 
them.    Presents  of  horses  were  made  by  some  of  the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


123 


Stu- 
oam- 
i  this 
,  with 
rough 
.perly, 
;  high, 
ip  and 
[\  some 
ursued 
ide  fre- 
few  In- 
)f  these 
:h  they 
ed  very 
reputed 

ily  hilly, 
ervening 
1  timber 
lys,  cold 
haracter- 
tains,  we 
Cinse  In- 
Lee  at 
1  a  small 
e  eastern 
re  lodges 
the  hair, 
together, 
d  a  num- 
of  frame, 
are  about 
lermit  the 
'hese  are 
we  were 
shown  us 
tribe,  and 
^es  around 
►me  of  the 


i 


chiefs  to  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  and  one  was  presented  to  the 
writer  by  "Tee-lon-kike,"  one  of  the  leading  men  in 
the  tribe.  In  return  for  these,  small  presents  of  such 
goods  as  we  had  left  of  our  mountain  outfit  were  made 
to  the  donors,  not  as  an  equivalent,  but  as  an  acknow- 
ledgment of  our  confidence  in  their  friendship,  and  a 
seal  of  our  good-will  to  them.  Passing  on  from  this 
grass-clad  plain,  we  soon  reached  the  Blue  Mountains, 
over  whose  high  and  rugged  summits  lay  our  trail  to 
the  valley  of  the  Columbia.  The  new  accession  of 
fresh  horses  from  the  Indian  camp  was  favourable  to 
the  remainder  of  our  journey.  Fires  were  crackling 
among  the  mountain  evergreens,  and  smoke  hid  from 
our  view  the  extended  landscape,  otherwise  delightfully 
beheld  around  us,  while  we  wound  our  zigzag  way  up- 
ward to  the  height,  and  down  its  dizzy  sides,  and  crept 
along  its  dark  rocky  chasms,  two  toilsome  days,  till  we 
came  to  the  vale  of  the  Um-a-til-a.  Here  we  quench- 
ed our  thirst,  and  the  horses  got  a  bite  of  grass.  Leav- 
ing this  stream  we  rose  to  the  divide  on  the  north  side, 
which  lies  between  it  and  the  Wallah-wallah  River,  and 
pursued  our  way  toward  Fort  Wallah-wallah,  where  we 
arrived  in  safety  Monday  afternoon,  September  1st. 

The  summary  of  the  distance,  and  the  time  occupied 
in  the  whole  journey,  may  be  stated  as  follows,  which 
will  be  very  near  the  truth : — 


From  Independence,  Mo.,  to  the  Platte, 

17  days, 

340  miles. 

On  the  Platte, 

14     " 

280     " 

From  the  Platte  to  rendezvous  near 

Gun  River, 

15     " 

300     "• 

From  the  rendezvous  to  Fort  Hall, 

12     *' 

240    *' 

From  Fort  Hall  to  Fort  Wallah-wallah, 

30     " 

600     " 

Independence  to  Fort  Hall,  88  days,  1760  miles. 

This  estimate  allows  thirty-nine  days'  rest,  and  twen- 
ty miles  for  a  day's  journey. 

Here  we  received  a  hearty  welcome  to  the  hospitali- 
ties of  the  fort  by  Mr.  P.  C.  Pambum,  who  was  in 
charge  of  the  establishment.  Abundance  of  food  was 
liberally  supplied  to  his  hungry  visiters,  who  regaled 


124 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Ill 


'  i  I 


themselves  once  more  in  the  midst  of  plenty,  and  soon 
forgot  their  past  privations,  even  their  last  dfay's  march 
on  an  empty  stomach.  Scarcely  had  this  capacious 
hand  finished  their  lengthened  meal,  when  Uaptain 
Wyethy  Mr.  Nuttall,  and  Mr.  Townsend  made  their 
appearance  at  our  camp,  hungry  as  wolves.  Part  of  a 
kettle  of  stewed  rabit  was  standing  by,  which  being 
given  to  the  two  naturalists,  they  showed  off  the  way 
to  get  a  living  to  perfection.  Captain  W.  availed  him- 
self of  the  politeness  of  Mr.  Pamburn  at  the  fort. 

Sept.  3d.  Having  left  our  horses  and  cattle  here, 
we  took  our  leave  of  Mr.  Pamburn,  and  embarked  in 
a  boat  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  for  Vancouver, 
where,  after  a  tedious  voyage  of  twelve  days,  we  arrived 
on  the  15th.  Meantime,  we  had  heard  of  the  safe  ar- 
rival of  the  Maydacre,  Captain  Lambert,  and  that  she 
was  lying  in  the  Columbia,  near  the  lower  mouth  of 
the  W alamet  River.  This  intelligence  was  very  grati- 
fying to  us  all.  At  Fort  Vancouver  the  missionaries 
were  received  with  much  politeness  and  kind  attention 
by  the  chief  factor,  John  M'Laughlin,  Esq.,  and  other 
gentlemen  of  the  establishment.  Leaving  Messrs. 
Shepard,  Edwards,  and  Walker,  at  Vance U7f;r,  for  the 
time  being,  Mr.  Jason  Lee  and  myself  started  for  the 
Walamet  Valley  to  find  a  location  for  our  mission, 
taking  the  Maydacre  in  our  route.  Dr.  M'Laughlin 
kindly  furnished  two  men  to  go  with  us,  and  horses  to 
ride,  and  a  good  supply  of  provisions  for  the  whole 
trip,  which  would  employ  us  several  days. 

Arrangements  being  made,  we  embarked  in  a  canoe 
and  proceeded  down  the  Columbia  to  the  Maydacre, 
twenty  miles ;  then  up  the  west  channel  of  the  Wala- 
met some  way,  and  after  that,  up  a  small  creek,  ar- 
riving at  a  farm  owned  by  Mr.  Thomas  M'Kay,  our 
friend  in  the  mountains.  Here  we  obtained  the  requisite 
number  of  horses,  and  hastened  on  to  the  Walamet  set- 
tlement, passing  through  what  is  now  called  the  Tua- 
latine  Plain,  a  high,  extended  ridge,  intervening  between 
it  and  M'Kay's  farm,  where  we  took  horses.    This  is 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


125 


goon 

larch 

cious 

plain 

their 

t  of  a 

being 

B  way 

Ihim- 

u 

here, 
ked  in 
jouver, 
arrived 
jafe  ar» 
liat  she 
)ulh  of 
y  grali- 
ionaries 
ittention 
id  other 
Messrs. 
,  for  the 
,  for  the 
mission, 
jaughlin 
lorses  to 
le  whole 


a  beautiful,  rich,  extensive,  gently-rolling  prairie,  well 
watered,  and  in  some  parts  well  timbered.  Beyond 
this  we  passed  a  delightful  hilly  tract  several  miles  in 
extent,  thinly  wooded  at  intervals,  and  then  open,  and 
covered  with  grass.  Descending  from  these  by  a  gentle 
grade,  we  came  to  Che-ha-lim,  a  valley  that  stretches 
away  east  to  the  Walamet.  Reaching  the  river  at  this 
place,  we  swam  our  horses  and  crossed  to  the  east  side, 
where  the  settlement  had  been  commenced.  Along 
the  river  we  found  about  a  dozen  families,  mostly  French 
Canadians,  who  had  been  hunters  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  or  free  trappers,  and  had  very 
lately  left  that  employment  and  begun  to  farm,  that 
themselves  and  families  might  have  a  surer  support  and 
greater  security  than  they  could  while  following  the 
hazardous  life  of  hunters.  They  seemed  prosperous 
and  happy,  and  gave  us  a  very  polite  and  generous  wel- 
come to  the  best  they  could  set  before  us.  One  night 
Mr.  Gervais  set  up  our  tent  in  his  garden,  among  me- 
lons and  cucumbers.  It  reminded  one  of  the  scripture, 
"  A  lodge  in  a  garden  of  cucumbers." 

About  two  miles  above  Mr.  Gervais's,  on  the  east 
bank  of  the  river,  and  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth,  a 
location  was  chosen  to  commence  our  mission.  Here 
was  ,a  broad,  rich  bottom,  many  miles  in  length,  well 
watered,  and  supplied  with  timber,  oak,  fir,  cotton-wood, 
white  maple,  aod  white  ash,  scattered  along  the  bor- 
ders of  its  grassy  plains,  where  hundreds  of  acres  were 
ready  for  the  plough.  We  now  hastened  back  to  Van- 
couver, obtained  horses  of  the  company  in  exchange 
for  those  we  had  left  at  Wallali-wallah,  and  oxen  and 
cows  in  loan  ;  men  to  drive  the  cattle  to  the  place,  and 
a  boat  and  crew  to  transport  our  supplies.  Taking  in 
our  cargo  at  the  Maydacre,  we  ascended  the  west  chan- 
nel of  the  Walamet,  opposite  to  Mr.  M'Kay's  farm, 
when  Mr.  Jason  Lee  and  Mr.  Walker  went  on  with  the 
boat,  and  Mr.  Edwards  and'-myself  went  to  the  farm 
to  take  charge  of  the  horses  which  had  been  obtained 
from  the  company,  and  bring  them  through  to  the  Wala- 


9 

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126 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


met.  We  had  left  the  river  but  a  short  distance  when 
we  came  to  a  pond  that  lay  across  our  way,  which  was 
connected  witn  the  river  by  deep  slues.  The  water 
was  shallow  and  the  bottom  muddy.  We  ventured  in, 
and  as  we  approached  the  middle,  the  mire  deepened 
so  much  that  we  found  it  required  a  hard  pull  to  get 
our  feet  off  soundings.  Having  conquered  these  oppo- 
sitions, we  measured  off  a  mile  through  the  hieh  wet 
grass  to  the  farm,  where  we  were  received  with  a  nearty 
French  welcome  by  Monsieur  Le  Bonte.  Next  day 
we  started  with  the  horses  to  the  Walamet,  by  the 
same  route  taken  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee  and  myself  on  our 
first  visit,  the  son  of  Le  Bonte,  Louis,  going  with  us. 
We  struck  the  river  at  the  lower  part  of  the  settlement 
called  Campment  du  Sable,  that  is,  ''  Sandy  Encamp- 
ment." The  Indian  name  is  Chumpoeg.  Here  we 
met  the  voyageurs  in  canoes,  which  they  had  taken  at 
the  Walamet  Falls  in  place  of  their  boat.  Mr.  Jason 
Lee  now  went  on  by  land,  while  Mr.  Edwards  and  my- 
self embarked  in  the  canoes.  A  few  miles  brought  us 
to  swift  water,  which  continued  at  short  intervals  for 
many  miles  far  above  the  mission.  Forcing  our  way 
up  the  current  about  sixteen  miles,  we  reached  our  des- 
tination and  ended  our  voyage  on  the  6th  of  October. 
The  cattle,  eight  oxen  and  ten  cows,  had  also  arrived 
in  safety.  Mr.  Shepard  remained  at  Fort  Vancouver, 
the  state  of  his  health  rendering  it  necessary  for  him  to 
avoid  the  hardship  and  exposure  attending  the  erection 
of  a  house  at  this  season,  the  nights  being  damp  and 
chilly,  and  the  rains  at  hand.  While  here,  however,  he 
was  not  idle ;  but  devoted  himself  to  his  favourite  em- 
ployment, teaching  a  small  school  in  the  fort  that  had 
been  commenced  under  the  patronage  of  Dr.  McLaugh- 
lin some  time  before.  The  three  shipwrecked  Japanese, 
mentioned  in  a  preceding  chapter,  were  among  his  pu- 
pils. In  this  service  he  continued  till  the  next  spring, 
and  then  came  to  the  aid  of  his  fellow-labourers  in  the 
Walamet.  .-♦ 


il 


struc 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


187 


CHAPTER  XII.      - 

Claims  of  the  Flathead  Indians  not  sufficient  to  induce  the  missionaries 
to  establish  a  mission  amc  ng  them — Mission  commenced  on  the  Walamet— 
Description  of  the  inci)  lent  labours  of  the  missionaries — A  party  from 
California  arrives — Indian  youth  left  with  the  missionaries  to  be  instruct* 
ed — A  party  of  whites,  who  had  been  attacked  by  the  Indians,  arrives  at 
the  mission — Intermittent  fever — Mr.  Nuttall,  the  naturalist — Death  of  s 
trapper,  and  addition  to  the  mission  family— Mr.  D.  Lee  embarks  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands  for  the  improvement  of  his  health. 

In  treating  of  the  occasion  in  which  the  Oregon 
mission  originated,  it  was  shown  that  the  supposed 
claim  of  the  Flathead  Indians  on  the  first  missionary 
efforts  made  in  the  country  were  unfounded ;  and  sub- 
sequent inquiries  had  furnished  reasons  to  the  mis- 
sionaries  that  could  not  justify  even  the  attempt  to  com- 
mence their  mission  among  them.  1.  The  means  of 
subsistence  in  a  region  so  remote  and  so  difficult  of 
access,  were,  to  say  the  least,  very  doubtful.  It  was  not 
a  small  matter  to  transport  all  necessary  implements  and 
tools  to  build  houses  and  raise  our  provisions  six  hun- 
dred miles.  2.  The  smallness  of  their  number.  Their 
perpetual  wars  with  the  Blackfeet  Indians  had  prevent- 
ed their  increase ;  and  they  were,  for  their  safety,  con- 
federated with  the  Nez  Perces.  3.  Their  vicinity  to 
the  Blackfeet,  as  well  the  white  man's  enemy  as  theirs, 
and  who  would  fall  upon  the  abettors  of  their  foes  with 
signal  revenge.  4.  A  larger  field  of  usefulness  was 
contemplated  as  the  object  of  the  mission  than  the  bene- 
fiting of  a  single  tribe.  The  wants  of  the  whole  coun- 
try, present  and  prospective,  so  far  as  they  could  be, 
were  taken  into  the  account,  and  the  hope  of  meeting 
these  wants,  in  the  progress  of  their  work,  led  to  the 
choice  of  the  Walamet  location,  as  a  starting  point,  a 
place  to  stand  on,  and  the  centre  of  a  wide  circle  of 
benevolent  action.  Here  any  amount  of  supplies  could 
be  produced  from  the  soil  that  might  be  required  in  the 
enlargement  of  the  work ;  and  here  the  first  blow  was 
struck  by  the  pioneer  missionaries  in  Oregon ;   and 


.    I 


:U 


'■^- 


\%  i: 


'I.  II 


W  ,:■ 


128 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


here  they  hegan  their  arduous  and  difficult  toil  to  elevate 
and  save  the  heathen  from  moral  degradation  and  ruin. 
The  rainy  season  was  fast  approaching,  and  a  house 
was  wanted,  to  shelter  us  when  it  arrived.  But  first 
we  had  to  prepare  our  tools,  and  gear  our  oxen.  We 
handled  axes  and  augurs,  hung  a  grind  stone,  split  rails, 
made  yokes  and  bows  for  the  oxen,  and  made  a  yard 
to  catch  them  in,  for  some  of  them  were  not  half  tamed, 
and  then  to  yoke  them — "  ay,  there's  the  rub" — our 
wits,  and  ropes,  physical  might,  all  took  hold — no 
flinching,  no  backing  out.  When  we  had  succeeded  in 
this,  then  came  the  all-day  business  of  driving  them. 
Men  never  worked  harder  ano  performed  less.  Our 
house  advanced  but  slowly,  and  we  were  caught  in  one 
violent  storm  of  wind  and  rain,  which  was  near  drench- 
ing all  we  had,  the  tent  which  we  occupied  being  but 
a  poor  protection.  When  it  cleared  away,  the  wet  arti- 
cles were  taken  out  and  carefully,  dried.  Before  the 
next  storm  came  on  we  had  a  roof  on  a  part  of  our 
house,  and  a  piece  of  floor  laid,  on  which  we  could  lie 
thankfully  secure  from  the  pelting  storm  without.  A 
few  weeks,  all  the  time  hard  at  it,  and  the  roof  was 
completed ;  a  good  chimney  made  of  sticks  and  clay, 
and  a  flre-place  in  one  end ;  floors  laid  of  plank  split 
from  the  fir,  and  hewn  on  the  upper  side ;  doors  pro- 
cured in  the  same  way,  and  hung  on  wooden  hinges. 
Then  a  table,  then  stools,  and  finally  the  luxury  of 
chairs  added  to  our  self-made  comforts.  Our  good 
mansion  was  built  of  logs,  twenty  by  thirty  feet,  divided 
into  two  apartments  by  a  partition  across  the  mid- 
dle, and  lighted  by  four  small  windows,  the  sashes 
partly  made  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee  with  his  jack-knife.  As 
to  a  living,  we  had  brought  a  supply  of  flour  from  Van- 
couver, and  made  unleavened  cakes,  baked  before  the 
fire,  and  from  the  settlers  we  bought  some  peas,  which, 
with  the  pork  we  had  sent  along  in  our  outnt  from  Bos- 
ton, made  good  soup,  to  which  was  sometimes  added 
a  small  quantity  of  barley.  The  cows  also  furnished 
a  little  milk,  and  from  the  Indians  we  sometimes  ob- 


*•':. 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


129 


vate 
ruin, 
ouse 
first 
We 
rails, 
yard 
imed, 
—our 
1— no 
iedin 
ihem. 
Our 
in  one 
rench- 
ng  but 
et  arti- 
)re  the 
of  our 
Duld  lie 
ut.    A 
of  was 
clay, 
split 
pro- 
hinges. 
:ury  of 
good 
divided 
mid- 
sashes 
fe.    As 
m  Van- 
fore  the 
,  which, 
■)in  Bos- 
\  added 
inished 
,  ob- 


k 


tained  a  bit  of  yenison.  Before  our  house  was  done> 
a  party,  headed  by  Mr.  Ewing  Young,  an  American 
from  one  of  the  western  United  States,  arrived  in  the 
Walamet  from  California,  embracing  about  a  dozen 
persons,  most  of  them  from  the  Unit^  States.  Some 
of  them  had  been  sailors,  some  hunters  in  the  moun- 
tains  and  in  the  region  bordering  on  California  to  the 
south,  and  one  Mr.  Kelly  was  a  traveller,  a  New-Eng- 
land man,  who  entertained  some  very  extravagant  no- 
tions in  regard  to  Oregon,  which  he  published  on  his 
return.  On  their  way  they  had  encountered  some  hos- 
tile Indians,  but  nothing  occurred  to  them  of  a  very 
serious  nature,  and  they  all  reached  their  destination  in 
safety.  To  provide  for  our  support  in  future,  a  farm 
was  soon  begun,  rails  made,  and  a  field  of  thirty  acres 
enclosed  and  ploughed,  and  the  next  spring  planted  and 
sowed.  Potatoes,  com,  wheat,  oats,  and  garden  seeds 
were  put  in.  About  this  time  Mr.  Walker's  time  was 
out,  and  he  left  the  service  of  the  mission,  aild  found 
employment  as  a  clerk  in  one  of  the  establishments  of 
Captain  Wyeth,  at  Fort  William,  on  Multnomah  Island. 
Mr.  Shepard  had  now  joined  us  from  Vancouver.  A 
man  of  the  Califomian  party,  an  American,  Ezekiel 
by  name,  built  us  a  good  pair  of  cart-wheels,  the  first 
that  were  made  in  the  Walamet.  A  barn  being  need- 
ed to  cover  the  returns  of  the  farm,  we  set  to  work  to 
erect  one  of  logs,  thirty  by  forty  feet.  Mr,  J.  Lee, 
Mr.  Edwards,  Rora,  an  old  Islander  from  the  Pacific, 
and  John  Calapooya,  a  boy  of  that  tribe,  with  myself, 
shouldered  our  axes.  The  trees  fell  before  us,  and 
soon  the  timber  appeared  together  on  the  spot. 

After  we  had  proceeded  about  half  way  in  laying  it 
up,  we  found  it  necessary  to  have  more  help,  and  called 
on  our  neighbours  for  assistance,  who  very  kindly  lent 
a  hand  to  finish  it.  We  then  proceeded  to  the  roof, — 
split  shingles,  four  feet  long,  and  confined  them  on  the 
building  by  laying  a  heavy  weight  pole  on  each  course, 
against  which  the  butts  of  the  next  higher  course  were 
placed.    This  way  of  making  a  good  roof  without  nails 


X'r' 


I       ■■'■] 


13a 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


is  common  in  the  west  and  in  Oregon.  Having  hired 
two  of  the  men  that  came  from  California,  to  saw  some 
plank  and  boards,  doors  and  a  floor  were  soon  added, 
and  thus  the  barn  was  finished. 

While  we  were  engaged  in  planting  in  the  spring,  a 
party  of  the  Umbaqua  Indians  called  on  us,  and  one 
of  them,  named  "Joe,"  known  to  the  Canadian  trappers, 
left  a  small  lad  with  us,  to  be  instructed  in  religion, 
and  taught  to  labour ;  and  a  Killemook  Indian,  a  friend 
of  his,  also  left  a  boy  of  his  tribe  under  our  care,  for  the 
same  purpose.  This  last  one  was  very  discontented,  not 
inclined  to  work,  or  learn  to  read ;  and  might  often  be 
seen  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  gazing  west  with  a  tearful 
eye  toward  the  sea-washed  shore,  where  he  was  once 
free,  and  longed  to  regain  it  once  more.  It  was  not  long 
till  his  people  came  to  see  him,  and  the  sad  tale  of  his 
exile  wnich  he  told  them,  induced  them  to  remove  him, 
contrary  to  their  engagement. 

The  Umbaqua  boy  was,  on  the  other  hand,  docile 
and  industrious ;  but  our  cherished  hopes  in  him  were 
soon  cut  off,  for  about  midsummer  he  died  of  a  con- 
sumption. But  previously  a  messenger  had  been  sent 
to  notify  his  relations  of  his  danger,  that  they  might 
come  and  see  him  before  his  death,  and  that  they  might 
have  no  occasion  for  jealousy  in  case  of  his  decease. 
However,  some  days  before  they  came,  he  was  dead. 
They  gathered  around  his  grave,  and  remained  some 
time  wailing  aloud ;  but  they  appeared  to  be  satisfied 
that  everything  had  been  done  well  on  our  part  on  his 
behalf;  and,  after  a  friendly  parting,  they  returned  again 
to  their  own  country.  John,  the  Kalapooya  just  men- 
tioned, and  his  sister,  named  Lucy  Redding,  orphans, 
had  also  been  taken  in  the  preceding  winter.  He  did 
not  remain  long  with  us  ;  but  she,  who  was  a  subject 
of  scrofulous  disease,  lingered  along  about  two  years, 
and  then  died.  Another  lad  of  the  same  tribe  came  to 
us  in  the  winter,  hungry  and  almost  naked,  and  begged 
to  be  taken  in,  and  we  could  not  refuse  to  receive  him ; 
but  as  soon  as  the  warm  weather  came,  and  there  was 


i 


mvl 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


131 


some  work  called  for,  and  a  little  submission  required, 
he  was  off  into  the  plains,  free  as  a  bird  escaped  from 
its  cage.  O  self-control !  how  art  thou  loved ;  thy 
favours  and  thy  votaries  are  found  everywhere  ! 

This  summer,  a  small  party  of  whites,  who  were 
coming  through  from  California,  were  attacked  by 
the  Indians  who  inhabit  south  of  the  Umbaquas,  and 
but  narrowly  escaped  with  their  lives.  Robbed  and 
wounded,  they  made  their  way  through  to  the  settle- 
ment. Turner,  an  American,  and  his  native  wife,  one 
of  the  daughters  of  the  land,  worn  out  by  their  long  and 
hungry  tramp,  came  to  the  river,  where  they  resolved 
to  adopt  a  new  mode  of  transporting  their  famine-smitten 
personages.  So,  forming  a  rude  raft,  they  committed 
themselves  to  the  current,  and  at  length  landed  at  the 
mission.  Here  they  were  gladly  received,  and  supplied 
with  food ;  and  Turner's  story  of  their  disastrous  journey 
was  heard  with  deep  interest.  The  rest  of  the  party, 
who  had  pursued  their  way  by  land,  had  not  yet  arrived, 
and  what  their  fate  had  been  remained  for  the  future  to 
reveal.  After  some  days  of  painful  anxiety,  two  others 
reached  the  mission,  almost  in  a  state  of  starvation. 
Their  food  had  been  little  else  than  a  few  berries  they 
chanced  to  meet  in  their  way,  as  they  dragged  along 
their  husky  forms  where  miles  seemed  leagues,  till  they 
struck  the  trail,  the  Indian  path  which  led  them  to  the 
river.  The  welcome  sight  of  cattle  on  the  other  side 
assured  them  that  relief  was  not  distant.  One  of  them 
attempted  to  swim  over,  but  was  too  weak  to  proceed 
far,  and  returned  again  to  the  shore,  which  he  was  only 
able  to  regain  by  the  assistance  of  his  companion.  It 
was  not  long  before  they  were  discovered,  and  a  canoe 
was  sent  to  their  rescue.  Poor  men  !  they  had  seen 
better  days,  and  now  they  saw  another :  as  the  sun  to 
the  storm-tossed  mariner,  so  joyous  was  this  day  to 
those  remnants  of  men,  snatched  from  the  jaws  of  fam- 
ine !  One  of  them.  Dr.  Bailey,  had  been  educated  a 
surgeon.  In  the  engagement  with  the  Indians  he  re- 
ceived a  deep  cut  with  an  axe  in  his  lower  jaw,  which 


132 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


severed  his  lip.  It  was  a  bad  wound,  and  having 
necessarily  been  mostly  left  to  take  its  own  course,  was 
in  a  bad  condition.  On  reaching  the  house  they  were 
liberally  supplied  with  water  and  with  food,  and  the 
writer  had  the  honour  to  perform  the  office  of  a  "  bar- 
ber" and  a  "  surgeon"  to  the  doctor's  long-neglected 
face !  Another  of  the  poor  stragglers  kept  more  to  the 
west,  and  went  the  whole  length  of  the  Walamet  Valley, 
sixty  miles  below  the  mission,  and  reached  Fort  William. 

In  the  month  of  August,  in  the  time  of  harvest,  the 
intermittent  fever  began  to  shake  its  burning,  freezing 
subjects.  One  and  then  another  was  prostrated,  till  not 
one  escaped  in  the  whole  household ;  but  through  the 
kindness  of  our  heavenly  Father,  the  disease  soon 
yielded  to  the  power  of  medicine.  The  missionaries 
nad  preached  regularly  on  the  sabbath  ever  since  their 
arrival  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Gervais,  a  near  neighbour, 
and  those  meetings  were  also  continued  some  time  after 
till  1837,  when  they  were  removed  to  the  mission 
house.  Besides  this  meeting,  another  was  occasionally 
held  at  "  Campment  du  Sable."  A  sabbath  school  was 
early  begun  where  the  meeting  was  held,  and  Mr.  G.'s 
own  children  and  some  others  attended.  He  had  also 
a  teacher  employed  who  kept  a  day  school  for  his  own 
children.  Tnis  was  Mr.  Solomon  H.  Smith,  formerly 
of  Boston,  who  came  to  Oregon  with  Capt.  Wyeth  iji 
1832.  Mr.  Nultall,  the  ^^ grass  man,''  as  the  Indians 
term  a  botanist,  visited  the  settlement  and  spent  some 
time  at  the  mission  about  midsummer :  we  were  much 
gratified  with  his  visit.  Seeing  him  gathering  flowers 
and  plants  appeared  to  the  Canadians  no  less  idle  and 
foolish,  and  a  subject  of  merriment,  now,  than  when  he 
accompanied  Mr.  Hunt  up  the  Missouri  River  in  1811. 

About  the  1st  of  September  one  of  the  settlers,  Louis 
Shangaratte,  formerly  a  trapper  in  the  service  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  burst  a  blood  vessel  in  the 
lunss,  and  died  almost  immediately.  He  left  three 
orphan  children,  and  four  or  five  poor  Indian  slaves. 
Ot  this  family,  and  th«  little  property  that  fell  to  the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


133 


heirs,  Dr.  M'Laughlin  earnestly  desired  Mr.  Jason  Lee 
to  take  charge.  To  this  proposal  he  assented ;  but  in 
that  moment  the  enslaved  must  be  free,  and  in  the 
mission  equal  with  those  they  once  served.  This  ac- 
cession greatly  increased  the  mission  family,  and  the 
care  and  labour  of  the  missionaries.  Two  of  the  num- 
ber, youngsters,  desiring  yet  more  liberty,  soon  eloped, 
which  was  some  relief,  in  a  case  where  there  was  so 
little  to  hope.  Some  others,  including  one  of  the  children 
of  the  deceased  Louis,  died  in  a  short  time,  the  victims 
of  diseases  of  a  date  earlier  than  their  reception  at  the 
mission.  Only  three  were  now  left  of  this  family,  and 
one  of  these  died  in  1837  with  the  scrofula.  Another 
child,  taken  into  the  mission  not  long  after,  was  a  little 
girl  of  the  Calapooya  tribe,  named  Lassee.  Her  father 
was  a  man  far  gone  in  years,  and  fast  sinking  in  a  de- 
cline. The  lodge  where  the  chieftain  lay  was  distant 
more  than  a  mile.  A  short  time  before  his  death,  his 
little  daughter  was  carried  to  see  him :  it  was  the  last 
interview.  A  father's  love  appeared  in  his  tears,  and 
he  caressed  his  "  little  one,"  endearingly  exclaiming, 
"  Ni-kah  ten-as  !  ni-kah  ten-as  /"  "  My  little  one  !  my 
little  one  !"  An  eye  witness  of  that  scene  saw  demon- 
strations of  the  existence  of  ardent  parental  and  filial 
love  in  untutored  and  unenlightened  hearts,  seldom 
surpassed  in  those  on  whom  the  light  of  science  and 
religion  had  formed  its  influence.  The  thought  that  his 
orphan  child  was  provided  for  in  the  care  of  those  who 
by  many  attentions  had  proved  themselves  his  friends, 
seemed  to  throw  a  cheerful  light  around  him  while  he 
descended  into  his  grave,  as  he  did  soon  after.  The 
daughter  also  died  in  a  short  time,  before  she  could 
derive  much  benefit  from  being  at  ♦he  mission,  except  in 
the  care  she  received  in  her  sickness.  Perhaps  some 
may  exclaim,  "  How  discouraging,  that  so  many  taken 
in  should  die  so  soon !"  In  answer  to  this  it  may  be 
asked.  Who  can  afHrm  that  the  good  done  to  these  in 
relieving  their  sufferings  the  while  was  not  a  large 
compensation  for  all  the  sacrifice  it  eost  ? 


1 1'  -'^il 


^■4 


1,1  !J 


m 


If 


134 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


This  year  a  grist  mill  was  built  at  Champoeg  by 
Mr.  Hanxhurst,  which  greatly  added  to  the  comfort  of 
the  inhabitants ;  who  had  previously,  some  of  them,  to 
pound  their  wheat  in  mortars.  At  the  mission  we  had  a 
small  cast-iron  corncracker,  in  which  we  ground  wheat 
after  a  fashion,  and  a  large  wooden  mortar,  holding 
about  a  bushel,  in  which  was  pounded  off  the  hull  oi 
the  barley  used  in  soup. 

About  the  beginning  of  autumn  an  event  quite  unex- 
pected took  place,  which  removed  the  writer  from  the 
mission  nearly  a  whole  year.  Having  suffered  some 
time  from  a  diseased  state  of  the  upper  portion  of  the 
windpipe,  which  affected  the  mucous  membrane  so 
much  as  to  cause  portions  of  it  to  slough  off,  which 
were  evacuated  by  an  irritating  and  frequent  expectora- 
tion, attended  with  pain  and  soreness  in  the  chest,  par- 
ticularly about  tije  heart,  it  was  thought  advisable  that 
he  should  go  to  Vancouver  for  medical  counsel.  Ac- 
cordingly, in  the  early  part  of  September  he  left  the 
Walamet  station  for  that  purpose,  and  proceeded  on 
horseback  to  Fort  William,  in  company  with  Mr.  Ed- 
wards, who  was  intending  soon  to  leave  the  country, 
in  a  vessel  going  to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  On  reach- 
ing Vancouver,  the  writer  applied  to  Dr.  M'Laugh- 
lin  for  the  desired  information  in  his  case,  and  of 
the  course  to  be  pursued  in  order  to  ensure  relief,  or 
at  least  render  recovery  probable.  The  chill  nights  of 
autumn  had  already  come,  and  the  long  rains  of  winter 
were  near  at  hand,  and  the  season  un^vourable  to  his 
restoration.  To  avoid  the  dangers  of  the  climate  here, 
Dr.  M'L.  advised  him  to  go  to  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
where  the  climate  was  better  adapted  to  the  improve- 
ment of  pulmonary  disease,  as  the  most  likely  means 
to  prove  beneficial.  One  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's vessels  was  then  in  the  river,  about  to  sail  to  the 
Islands,  and  Dr.  M'L.  kindly  offered  him  a  passage, 
gratis,  and  to  render  every  other  assistance  in  his 
power,  which  his  visit  to  the  Islands  might  demand.  In 
the  way  of  accepting  these  very  generous  provisions 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


135 


there  were  some  difficulties.  He  must  leave  the 
mission  at  a  time  when  his  help  was  much  needed, 
without  the  direction,  or  counsel,  or  knowledge  of  his 
superintendent.  It  was  a  hard  resolve.  The  vessel 
had  unmoored,  and  was  dropping  down  the  river. 
To  remain  seemed  to  promise,  in  his  state  of  health, 
very  little  good  to  the  mission,  while  it  was  attended 
with  great  risk  to  health,  if  not  life.  He  therefore  de- 
termined to  avail  himself  of  the  favourable  opportunity 
now  presented,  and  accordingly  embarked  for  the 
Islands,  having  by  letter  informed  his  fellow-labourers 
at  the  Walamet  of  the  step  he  had  taken  ;  and  here  we 
will  leave  them  till  his  return. 


r.^' 


n, 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Voyage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands — Sea  sickness — Arrival — Mr.  Lee  is 
cordially  received  by  missionaries — Their  mission — ^Arrival  of  a  Qut^er 
missionary  from  London — Return  of  Mr.  Lee — Loss  of  a  ship's  crew — State 
of  affairs  at  the  mission  during  Mr.  Lee's  absence — Temperance  Society 
formed — Mr.  Lee  engages  in  medical  practice — Provision  for  mission  family 
— ^First  conversion  of  a  white  man  in  Oregon.  • 

The  company's  vessel  in  which  he  sailed  was  the 
bark  Ganymede,  Captain  Eales.  She  dropped  down 
the  river,  and  in  a  few  days  was  lying  in  Baker's  Bay, 
waiting,  as  was  also  another  of  the  company's  vessels, 
bound  to  England,  for  a  favourable  opportunity  to  cross 
the  bar.  Mr.  Nuttall  was  also  passenger,  going  again 
to  the  Islands,  where  he  had  already  made  one  voyage 
since  our  arrival  here  in  1834,  to  prosecute  still  further 
his  scientific  pursuits,  particularly  in  the  collection  of 
shells  and  birds.  Here  we  did  not  wait  long,  which 
was  a  particular  favour,  as  sometimes  vessels  are  de- 
tained here  for  weeks,  the  angry  waters  on  the  bar 
confining  them  in  their  safe  retreat :  but  now  they  bore 
an  inviting  aspect,  the  seamen  weighed  anchor,  made 
sail,  and  put  to  sea,  the  faithful  helm  directing  our 


iftMKi 


136 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


course  mid-channel  between  the  tremendous  breakers 
on  either  hand.  With  what  an  awful  power  has  the 
Creator  armed  these  mighty  waters — yet  hath  he  set 
bounds  that  they  cannot  pass ;  yea,  he  holdeth  the  ocean 
in  the  hollow  of  his  hand !  To  Capt.  Eales  the  writer  is 
much  indebted  for  his  obliging  and  gentlemanly  regard 
during  the  whole  voyage,  which  on  account  of  a  con- 
tinued sea-sickness  was  otherwise  sufficiently  disagree- 
able. Perhaps  there  is  nothing  of  disease  from  which 
so  little  real  danger  is  in  most  cases  to  be  apprehended 
that  so  unmans  a  man  as  this.  It  seems  to  prostrate 
as  well  the  mental  as  physical  powers,  producing  an 
inactivity  and  listlessness,  yet  when  not  too  long  con- 
tinued it  is  often  beneficial  and  improving  to  health. 

On  reaching  Oahu,  the  particular  island  of  the  group 
to  which  the  vessel  was  bound,  we  came  to  anchor  in 
the  harbour  of  Honolulu,  the  principal  town  not  only  of 
this  isle,  but  of  all  the  group,  the  resort  of  many  of  the 
whalers  in  tlie  Pacific  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
supplies  of  fresh  provisions,  which  grow  here  in  abun- 
dance ;  and  also  the  residence  of  several  merchants, 
who  used  formerly  to  obtain  large  quantities  of  sandal 
wood  for  the  Chinese  market,  which  article  has  now 
become  scarce,  and  is  of  less  value  than  formerly. 
Perhaps  the  votaries  of  the  idols  of  the  "  Celestial 
Empire"  have  an  extra  supply  to  burn  in  incense  to 
them.  Here  also  is  the  frequent  residence  of  the 
"  royal  family."  The  present  king  is  the  grandson  of 
Ta-maha-maha  I.,  the  conqueror,  who  subdued  the  na- 
tion to  his  sway,  and  the  son  of  Reho-roho,  who,  in  1820, 
when  the  first  missionaries  were  on  their  way  to  evan- 
gelize his  people,  destroyed  the  idols  throughout  his 
dominion,  unconsciously  preparing  the  way  for  the 
servants  of  God.  Some  time  subsequently  he  and  his 
queen  visited  England,  and  died. 

By  Mr.  Bingham  and  his  associates,  the  missionaries, 
and  Mr.  Deill,  the  seamen's  chaplain,  the  writer  was 
received  on  his  arrival  with  Christian  salutations  and  a 
generous  welcome,  which  made  him  feel  himself  to  be 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


137 


among  friends,  where  he  soon  forgot  the  disagreeables 
of  the  voyage  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  society  which  he 
loved.  And  he  will  not  soon  forget  the  repeated  proofs 
of  their  kind  and  sympathizing  regard,  when,  "sick 
and  a  stranger,"  his  lot  was  thrown  among  them.  May 
peace  and  success  attend  them  still  in  their  good  work 
among  the  heathen,  and  may  the  writer  meet  them  in 
a  world  of  rest !  At  this  time,  November,  1835,  the 
Bible  was  nearly  translated,  and  a  printing-press  was 
multiplying  copies  of  the  Scriptures,  which  were 
circulated  extensively,  and  read  with  great  avidity  by 
many,  both  old  and  young,  who  by  the  efforts  of  the 
missionaries  had  learned  to  read.  There  were  at  that 
time  about  twelve  stations,  and  more  than  twenty-five 
labourers,  besides  the  ladies  employed  in  the  various 
branches  of  their  missionary  work.  A  high-school, 
designed  to  qualify  teachers  and  native  preachers,  was 
in  progress,  and  an  institution  of  considerable  promise. 
Soon  after  my  arrival  a  small  vessel  dropped  anchor  in 
the  harbour,  which  was  found  to  be  the  bearer  of  a 
Quaker  missionary,  sent  out  from  London  on  a  five 
years'  exploring  tour.  He  was  a  man  advanced  in  life, 
his  name  was  Daniel  Wheeler,  and  he  was  attended  by 
his  son  Charles.  The  writer  has  since  learned  that 
they  returned  in  safety  to  England,  where  the  father 
has  since  died.  An  account  of  this  voyage  has  been 
published. — During  my  visit  here  my  health  was  much 
benefited :  some  donations  were  also  received  from  the 
native  Christians  and  other  friends,  for  the  use  of  the 
Oregon  Mission.  And  in  August,  1836,  taking  leave 
of  my  friends  at  Honolulu,  and  bidding  them  farewell, 
the  writer  embarked  in  the  bark  Nereid,  belonging 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  Capt.  Royal,  and  sailed 
for  the  Columbia  Hiver.  Here  the  writer  was  intro- 
duced to  a  clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England,  Mr. 
H.  Beaver,  who  was  going  to  reside  at  Fort  Vancouver, 
as  chaplain  to  the  company.  He  was  attended  by  his 
lady.  After  a  safe  but  somewhat  lengthened  passage, 
we  made  Cape  Disappointment ;  and  the  wind  falling 


'■'It 


m 

^1 


138 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


off,  we  let  go  anchor  to  the  northward  of  the  channel, 
without  the  north  breakers,  in  ten  fathoms  water.  Next 
day,  the  wind  and  bar  favouring,  we  soon  entered  the 
river,  and  came  to  anchor,  thankful  for  the  care  of  that 
kind  and  watchful  Providence  which  had  brought  us  to 
our  "  desired  haven."  Little  did  any  of  our  number 
think  that  at  a  time  not  far  distant  two  of  the  crew  then 
in  our  vessel  would  sleep  the  sleep  of  death,  beneath 
the  bosom  of  the  smooth  waters  that  spread  out  their 
unruffled  surface  between  us  and  Fort  George ;  that 
there  ihey  would  lay  their  bones,  by  the  side  of  a  score 
of  their  comrades  whom  the  deep  had  buried  beneath 
us !  But  so  it  was  :  for  some  time  after,  the  next  year, 
it  is  believed,  one  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  ships 
was  at  anchor  here,  on  the  point  of  going  to  sea,  and 
the  captain  (Holmes)  took  a  boat  and  four  seamen,  and 
started  for  Fort  George,  distant  seven  miles.  Next  day 
the  boat  was  discovered  by  the  mast  standing  above  the 
water,  but  of  the  hapless  crew  no  trace  was  found. 
The  boat  was  sunk  in  about  twelve  feet  water.  A 
mere  circumstance  prevented  a  passenger,  Capt.Thyng, 
the  gentleman  before  mentioned  as  being  with  Capt. 
Wyeth  when  we  crossed  the  mountains,  from  being 
among  the  dead.  Capt.  Holmes  had  asked  him  to  go, 
but  when  he  embarked  himself  seemed  to  have  entirely 
forgotten  it,  and  left  without  noticing  Capt.  T.  at  all ; 
and  this  kept  him  on  board  the  vessel,  and  thus  he 
escaped  with  his  life. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Beaver  took  up  their  residence  at  Van- 
couver, where  he  officiated  till  the  summer  of  1838, 
when  they  returned  to  England.  However,  the  English 
Church  service  is  regularly  performed  here,  except  when 
a  minister  is  present,  in  which  event  his  services  are 
generally  invited.  Since  Mr.  Beaver  left,  this  has  been 
the  order,  and  it  was  the  same  before  his  arrival.  Soon 
after  reaching  Vancouver,  Mr.  J.  Lee  arrived  from  the 
Walamet,  which  was  an  agreeable  surprise  to  his  friend, 
who  was  expecting  to  make  a  journey  to  that  place 
before  the  pleasuiu  of  such  an  interview.    To  Captain 


N 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


139 


Royal  the  thanks  of  the  writer  were  due  for  his  obliging 
attentions  on  the  voyage ;  and  to  Dr.  M'Laughlin  for 
the  aid  rendered  to  the  writer  in  this  voyage,  without 
which  he  could  not  have  availed  himself  of  the  benefit 
of  a  tropical  climate  for  the  restoration  of  his  health. 

After  remaining  a  short  time  at  Vancouver,  to  take 
care  of  the  donations  which  had  been  received  at  the 
Islands,  we  embarked  for  the  Walamet,  where  we  found 
Mr.  Shepard  surrounded  with  the  children  in  sabbath 
school, — glad  to  meet  again,  and  desirous  that  we  might 
once  more  labour  together,  and  bear  each  other's  bur- 
dens, and  fulfil  the  law  of  Christ. 

During  my  absence,  the  state  of  affairs  at  the  sta- 
tion shall  be  here  noticed,  and  the  events  of  that  period 
which  may  appear  worthy  of  record.  Forty-five  acres 
of  land  were  ruder  cultivation,  and  produced  about 
seven  hundred  bushels  of  wheat  and  three  hundred  of 
potatoes.  They  had  made  an  addition  to  the  house  of 
sixteen  by  thirty  feet,  which,  on  account  of  the  enlarge- 
ment of  th<.  family,  had  become  necessary ;  having 
taken  in  about  twenty  children,  several  of  whom  were 
orphans — a  task  indeed,  to  feed  so  many  mouths,  and 
clothe  so  many  half-naked  children,  to  say  nothing  of 
teaching  and  watching  over  them,  or  of  attending  on 
them  in  sickness.  To  these  several  were  added  from 
the  families  of  our  neighbours  ;  so  that  on  Sunday  more 
than  thirty  met  in  sabbath  school.  Some  of  these  also 
attended  on  week  days,  to  whom  Mr.  Shepard  devoted 
all  the  time  his  many  duties  would  admit.  At  first, 
when  the  subject  of  teaching  the  children  was  proposed 
to  the  parents,  the  fathers,  some  of  them,  made  slight 
objections  ;  but  these  seemed  soon  to  vanish  away,  and 
much  interest,  particularly  by  the  mothers,  was  evinced 
in  the  efforts  which  were  made  to  teach  their  children. 
In  proof  of  this,  they  used  to  freljuent  the  sabbath 
school  themselves,  and  manifestly  took  pleasure  in  the 
exercises. 

Mr.  Edwards  had  also  opened  a  small  school  near 
Champoeg,  shortly  after  my  going  to  the  Islands,  where 


Pll 


140 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


he  continued  to  teach  for  several  montlis ;  and  when 
he  had  finished,  some  of  those  he  had  been  instructing 
were  admitted  into  the  mission  school. 

Another  thing  worthy  of  note  is  the  formation  of  a 
temperance  society.  Previous  to  this,  liquor  had  been 
obtained  by  some  of  the  people  in  the  settlements  at 
Fort  William,  on  the  Muhnomah,  and  had  produced 
some  of  its  usual  effects,  waste  of  property,  neglect 
of  business,  drunkenness,  quarrels,  etc.  Here  is  a  man 
in  harvest,  living  on  pea-soup ;  but  why  does  he  not 
season  it  with  a  little  pork  ?  Walamet  grows  pork,  I 
suppose  ?  Yes,  and  it  grew  some  for  him  ;  but,  poor 
man  !  he  was  robbed  of  it  all !  Robbed  ?  Yes  ;  by 
one,  too,  who  ought  to  have  been  his  greatest  friend. 
This  fellow  took  his  only  pork  and  carried  it  away,  and 
gave  it  for  ardent  spirits,  which  he  barbarously  com- 
pelled the  owner  to  drink  ;  and  now,  poor  man,  he  has 
no  pork  to  eat  in  harvest !  But  the  temperance  society 
was  established,  and  a  very  large  part  of  the  residents 
joined.  It  is  due  to  say  that  Dr.  M'Laughlin  seconded 
the  efforts  of  the  missionaries  and  the  friends  of  tem- 
perance, and  that  the  course  he  has  taken  in  regard  to 
spirituous  liquors  has  done  much  to  preserve  the  general 
order  and  harmony  of  the  mixed  community  of  which 
the  settlement  is  composed.  The  good  that  has  already 
been  derived  to  the  inhabitants  of  that  valley  from  the 
absence  of  so  dire  a  curse  can  never  be  told ;  nor  is 
there  a  scourge  so  terrible  this  side  perdition,  that  can 
be  let  loose  upon  them,  that  would  do  the  deviPs  work 
and  turn  earth  into  hell  so  fully  as  the  free  distribution 
of  that  bane  that  changes  men  into  demons.  But  with 
these  as  the  certain  fruits  of  using  alcohol  before  their 
eyes,  there  were  found  men  who  determined  to  distil 
it !  Yes,  two  men  commenced  the  erection  of  a  dis- 
tillery, and  expended  cons'derable  in  preparation.  With 
this  movement  almost  the  whole  community  were 
alarmed ;  not  only  those  who  had  enrolled  themselves 
on  the  list  of  temperance,  but  nearly  all  the  rest,  felt 
that  if  that  distillery  went  on  all  was  lost.    At  this 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


HI 


crisis  a  general  meeting  was  convened,  which  deter- 
mined to  approach  the  portentous  evil  with  an  aspect 
of  mildness,  by  presenting  them  a  petition  setting  forth 
the  reasons  which  should  lead  to  the  abandonment  of 
their  attempt ;  and,  as  a  further  inducement,  offering 
to  remunerate  them  for  all  they  had  expended.  This 
petition  was  signed  by  nearly  every  man  in  the  settle- 
ment, and  the  voice  of  public  opinion  triumphed  ;  for 
the  persons  concerned  acceded  to  the  voice  of  the  peo- 
ple, but  refused  their  proffered  remuneration.  Never 
was  an  evil  ot  such  magnitude  arrested  more  timely,  or 
in  a  manner  more  appropriate. 

There  were,  however,  ?iill  some  who,  for  all  this, 
indulged  a  private  friendship  for  the  "  good  creature," 
falsely  so  called,  and  longed  to  shake  hands  again  with 
him  as  an  old  friend  with  whom  they  had  passed  many 
a  merry  hour.  At  length  one  of  these  set  himself  at 
work  in  as  good  earnest  as  ever  man  did  to  generate 
the  alcoholic  principle,  that  he  and  his  familiars  might 
regale  and  cheer  their  hearts  in  the  tedium  of  sober  and 
industrious  life.  Pursuant  to  his  plan  for  a  spirited 
entertainment,  he  addressed  himself  vigorously  to  the 
work — soaked,  and  sprouted,  and  dried  his  grain,  con- 
verted some  kitchen  or  camp  utensil  into  a  distillery, 
kindled  his  fires,  condensed  the  vapour,  and  immortal- 
ized himself  as  the  father  of  alcohol  in  the  Walamet. 
The  event  was  hailed  with  joy,  and  deemed  worthy  of 
particular  note,  and  its  celebration  took  place  on  the 
evening  of  the  25th  of  December.  The  party  who 
availed  themselves  of  the  honours  of  that  hour  needed 
no  introduction  to  young  Alcohol,  for  in  truth  they  found 
that  he  had  been  an  old  associate  of  theirs  in  days  of 
yore.  As  usual,  he  appeared  in  a  liquid  condition,  and 
weakly,  in  consequence  of  having,  through  some  mis- 
take, imbibed  too  much  water,  and  so  chilled  his  ardour 
as  to  render  his  constitution  very  delicate,  or  perhaps 
even  endanger  his  life.  They  remembered,  with  some 
regret,  that  he  was  formerly  more  flush ;  but,  strange 
to  tell !  though  so  many  reasons  appeared  in  favour  of 


f^ 


I:  M 

^1   .   .IrJ 


it 


1 

■'  *  '     i 


I  m 


I 

il 


>    '1.' 


i 


mm  ^4^ 


142 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


their  pity  and  protection,  they  recklessly  resolved  to 
send  him  to  destruction.  This  was  to  take  place  in 
their  several  stomachs,  where  it  was  hoped  he  might 
be  so  dissipated  as  to  take  refuge  in  the  head,  as  on  for- 
mer occasions,  and  produce  those  pleasurable  sensations 
for  which  the  whole  entertainment  was  especially  de- 
signed. If  report  says  true,  after  all  their  efforts,  poor 
alcohol  was  unable  to  upset  their  sobriety;  and,  there- 
fore, of  sheer  necessity,  they  were  compelled  to  be 
sober,  or  at  least  nearly  so.  Till  the  writer  left  the  coun- 
try, no  other  like  attempt  had  been  made.  Yet,  as  will 
appear  in  the  sequel,  it  has  been  brought  here  from  the 
United  States  since  that  time. 

But,  to  return  from  this  digression  on  evil  spirits.  The 
rainy  season  soon  set  in,  and  now  all  our  hands  were 
full  of  business.  As  for  the  writer,  though  no  Escu- 
lapian,  yet  he  was  compelled  to  engage  in  medical 
practice  on  the  first  year  of  his  apprenticeship  on  mis- 
sion ground — very  cautiously  at  first,  but  now,  except 
in  some  new  and  difiicult  cases,  he  has  acquired  more 
confidence  in  his  attempts  to  relieve  suffering  humanity. 
Besides  frequent  cases  of  the  intermittent  fever,  and 
others  of  scrofula,  there  was  an  epidemic  which  attack- 
ed most  of  the  children  at  once  ;  so  that  our  house  was 
in  fact  an  hospital,  and  in  one  small  room  sixteen  chil- 
dren were  down  with  it  at  the  same  time.  Some  of 
the  symptoms  were  alarming,  resembling  the  croup. 
Here  were  perplexities.  Must  do  something — what? 
May  do  wrong !  These  were  trying  moments,  reader ! 
Mr.  Shepard  stood  by,  and,  shoulder  to  shoulder,  we 
weathered  the  storm.  The  dark  clouds  began  to  open, 
and  finally,  after  a  few  days,  they  were  dispersed ; 
then  the  sun  shone,  and  our  plants  grew  again. 

To  get  our  wheat  floured  was  a  matter  of  some  im- 
portance for  a  family  of  thirty  souls,  when  the  mill 
was  more  than  twelve  miles  off,  and  the  rains  almost 
incessant,  with  very  muddy  roads.  This  was  done  on 
horses.  A  pair  of  large  saddlc-bags  made  of  elk-skin 
are  suspended  over  the  saddle,  and  a  sack  of  grain,  hold- 


heal 
le; 


i-skin 
hold- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREOON. 


143 


ing  a  bushel  and  a  half,  is  put  into  each  side,  over 
which  a  covering  of  some  kind,  a  skin  or  a  blanket,  is 
laid,  and  then  all  is  lashed  close  to  the  saddle  with  a 
strong  skin  rope.  Having  rigged  the  requisite  number 
of  horses  or  mules,  two,  three,  or  four,  two  of  the 
larger  boys  mount  upon  other  horses,  and  the  embryo 
caravan  begins  to  move.  What  disasters  are  to  befall 
them  cannot  be  imagined.  With  these  difficulties  we 
were  sometimes  a  little  short,  and  then  boiled  wheat 
was  a  substitute  for  bread.  Thus  did  our  heavenly 
Father  provide  for  us,  so  that  we  were  never  destitute ; 
but  we  saw  abundant  reason  to  praise  Him  who  gave 
us  strength  as  our  day.  The  sabbath  was  a  season  of 
rest  and  refreshment  to  our  souls.  The  family  altar 
and  the  class  meeting  were  owned  of  God,  and  oft 
did  we  prove  his  promise  true,  "  Where  two  or  three 
are  gathered  together  in  my  name,  there  am  I  in  the 
midsl." 

Here  may  be  stated  a  case  of  conversion.  On  about 
the  1st  of  January,  1837,  one  of  tlie  American  residents, 
Mr.  Webley  Hanxhurst,  a  native  of  Long  Island,  called 
at  the  mission  house,  and  passed  the  night  with  us.  It 
was  the  evening  of  our  class  meeting.  His  attention 
was  at  first  arrested  by  the  serious  deportment  of  our 
children  at  evening  prayers.  Let  me  relate  his  exer- 
cises in  his  own  words.  In  a  letter  he  wrote,  dated 
January  13lh,  he  says :  "I  am  thankful  that  my  busi- 
ness led  me  week  before  last  to  your  house.  I  learned 
more  in  that  week  than  in  thirty-one  years  before. 
When  I  saw  the  Indian  children  praying  and  worship- 

f)ing  God,  I  thought  it  was  high  time  for  me,  who  had 
ived  thirty-one  years  in  sin,  without  ever  praying  for 
my  own  soul ;  and  being  in  your  class  mectmg,  and 
hearing  you  asking  questions,  and  telling  your  feelings, 
I  expected  you  would  speak  to  me,  and  what  could  I 
say  ?  I  felt  like  a  person  lost  for  ever !"  He  was  in- 
deed truly  alive  to  his  danger.  We  pointed  him  to 
Jesus,  to  whom  he  looked,  and  ere  long  found  peace 
to  his  troubled  soul.    This  was  the  first  conversion,  the 


m     '■;: 


MM 


t 


m, 


Im 

!:ii 

^ii   y^n 

lit     mm 

^m    lli 

It   11 

7  jB|y 

i*^   i  ^  ' 

UM'-Ujl 

w 

'11 

iw 

J9 

-lli 

fnl 

144 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


writer  believes,  of  a  white  man  in  Oregon.  Great 
was  our  joy  at  this  event.  "  We  thanked  God,  and 
took  courage." 


CHAPTER  XrV. 

Mission  settlement  receives  a  visit  from  Mr.  Wm.  A.  Slocura — Petition 
to  congress  from  people  at  the  settlement,  calling  upon  the  American  go- 
vernment to  protect  them  by  its  laws — Mr.  J.  Lee  procures  cattle  from 
California — ^Arrival  of  reinforcement  to  the  mission,  from  the  United  States 
— An  attempt  to  murder  an  Indian  chief— Mission  schools — Happy  deaths — 
History  of  a  sabbath  in  Oregon — Another  reinforcement  arrives — ^Attempt 
of  missionaries  to  improve  the  condition  of  Calapooyas — Plans  to  extend 
the  work  formed. 

Just  before  this  last  cheering  event,  in  December 
the  settlement  and  mission  received  a  visit  from  Mr. 
Wm.  A.  Slocum,  a  gentleman  belonging  to  the  U.  S. 
Navy,  then  employed  in  a  special  service  by  the 
United  States  government,  pursuant  to  which  he  had 
arrived  in  Oregon,  and  was  to  proceed  to  California. 
The  vessel  in  which  he  came  he  had  chartered  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  it  was  commanded  by  an  Ame- 
rican, Capt.  Bancroft.  Mr.  Slocum  made  calls  at 
almost  every  house  in  tlie  community,  and  took  an  ac- 
count of  the  produce  of  their  farms,  and  stock,  and  the 
number  of  inhabitants.  A  petition  was  now  drawn  up, 
and  signed  by  the  people,  both  French  and  Americans, 
praying  the  congress  of  the  United  States  to  recog- 
nise them  in  their  helpless  and  defenceless  state,  and 
to  extend  to  them  the  protection  of  its  laws,  as  being, 
or  as  desiring  to  become  its  citizens.  This  was  for- 
warded by  Mr.  Slocum,  who  seemed  anxious  to  do  all 
in  his  power  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  the  residents, 
and  to  have  their  wishes,  as  imbodied  in  it,  realized. 

At  this  period,  the  cattle  in  the  country  nearly  all 
belonged  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  as  it  was 
then  policy  not  to  sell  any,  it  became  necessary  for 
some  measures  to  be  adopted  to  obtain  elsewhere  what 
could  not  be  bought  of  the  company.  In  order  to  this, 
an  expedition  to  California  was  in  contemplation  wtien 


#'■ 


TBN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


145 


Mr.  Slocum  arrived.  On  becoming  acquainted  with 
the  fact,  and  the  reasons  for  it,  he  lent  his  aid  to  carry 
it  into  immediate  effect;  and  tendered  a  passage  to 
California  to  those  who  might  compose  the  party.  Of 
this  very  seasonable  and  unexpected  means  of  reaching 
that  country,  they  were  happy  to  avail  themselves. 
The  better  to  effect  their  object  a  company  was  form- 
ed, and  stock  invested  to  a  considerable  amount,  to 
which  were  to  be  added  the  avails  of  the  labour  which 
the  party  might  perform  during  their  detention  in 
California,  till  the  ensuing  summer ;  when  they  were 
to  return  to  Walamet,  where  the  business  was  to  be 
closed ;  and  after  deducting  the  expenses  of  the  ex- 
pedition, each  owner  was  to  receive  his  share  of  the 
cattle  according  to  his  investment. 

It  being  desirable  to  stock  the  mission  in  view  of 
securing  a  permanent  provision  for  its  future  sustenance, 
in  its  ant}*  r>ated  enlargement  and  progress,  Mr.  J.  Lee 
invested  :l3  concern  six  hundred  dollars,  mission 
funds,  foi  '  ; ,  purpose.  The  party  was  organized,  and 
headed  by  Mr.  Ewing  Young,  accompanied  by  Mr.  P. 
L.  Edwards,  as  purser  of  the  company.  After  having 
enjoyed  a  very  agreeable  interview  with  Mr.  Slocum 
for  some  days,  he  took  his  departure  to  re-embark  and 
sail  for  Caliiornia,  and  with  tne  cattle  party  was  soon 
on  board  his  vessel  in  Baker's  Bay.  But  here  in  this 
season  of  storms  they  lost  two  anchors,  and  but  nar- 
rowly escaped  shipwreck,  and  Capt.  Bancroft  was  com- 
pelled to  return  to  Vancouver  and  obtain  an  anchor, 
before  he  could  venture  to  sea.  By  these  disasters  he 
was  detained  many  days,  but  at  length  they  all  reached 
California  in  safety. 

Here  they  went  to  work,  and  commanded  high  wages, 
till  the  next  spring;  and  as  soon  as  the  arrangements 
could  be  made,  with  a  party  increased  by  the  addition 
of  several  more  men,  they  commenced  their  march 
toward  the  Walamet.  Messrs.  Young  and  Edwards, 
in  securing  the  success  of  the  enterprise,  found  it  ne- 
cessary to  attempt  the  removal  of  a  serious  obstacle  in 


^ 


t, 


'^ 


tl 

ijj; 

|l 

It  i 


146 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


their  way.  It  was  this :  an  old  colonial  law  was  in 
force,  prohibiting  the  transportation  of  females  out  of  the 
country.  They  therefore  appUed  to  the  authorities  for 
a  special  grant.  They  were  favourably  received,  and 
obtained  their  request.  The  way  being  thus  cleared 
up,  they  bought  eight  hundred  cattle,  at  three  dollars  a 
head,  and  forty  horses,  at  twelve  dollars  each,  making 
the  whole  outlay  $2480.  Their  journey  was  full  of 
hardships,  in  a  rough  mountainous  country.  Numbers 
of  the  cattle  were  drowned  in  swimming  a  river,  some 
strayed,  and  some  were  shot  by  the  Indians ;  and  one 
Indian  was  also  killed  by  the  party.  They  reached 
Walamet  in  October,  with  about  six  hundred  head  of 
the  eight  hundred,  having  parted  with  one-fourth  of 
them  on  the  way.  Then  followed  a  public  sale  of  the 
horses,  and  the  cattle  were  found  to  have  cost  the 
company  about  seven  dollars  and  sixty-seven  cents 
a-piece.  Of  these,  more  than  eighty  head  belonged  to 
the  mission.  Thus  was  the  enterprise  prospered,  and 
answered  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  undertaken ;  but 
it  should  be  remembered  that  most  of  these  cattle  were 
partially  wild,  which  made  them  less  valuable. 

About  the  close  of  the  year  1836  the  Board  sent  out 
a  reinforcement  to  the  Oregon  Mission,  consisting  of 
the  following  individuals  :  Dr.  Elijah  White,  wife,  and 
two  children ;  Mr.  Alanson  Beers,  wife,  and  three 
children;  Mr.  Wm.  H.  Wilson;  and  Misses  Anna 
-Maria  Pittman,  Susan  Downing,  and  Elvira  Johnson. 
These  all  reached  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  safety, 
where  they,  after  some  detention,  embarked  in  an 
American  vessel,  Capt.  Wm.  S.  Hinckley  master,  and 
sailed  to  the  Columbia,  where  they  all  arrived  in  safety 
in  May,  1837.  We  received  them  with  great  satis- 
faction and  thankfulness  for  the  care  of  a  kind  Provi- 
dence which  had  brought  them  to  us,  to  strengthen  our 
hearts  and  hands  in  our  too  arduous  labours,  under 
which  we  were  sometimes  pressed  as  a  cart  beneath  its 
sheaves.  As  soon  as  the  news  of  their  coming  reached 
us,  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  leaving  Mr.  Shepard  and  myself  at 


s  in 

the 
3  for 

and 
sared 
ars  a 
iking 
lU  of 
nbers 
some 
id  one 
sached 
sad  of 
rth  of 

of  ibe 
DSt  the 
i  cents 
need  to 
ed,  and 
en ;  but 
Je  were 

sent  out 
jting  of 
vife,  and 
»d  three 
js  Anna 
Johnson. 
\  safety, 
d  in  an 
ster,  and 
in  safety 
jat  satis- 
id  Provi- 
[then  our 
■8,  uncicr 
i3neath  its 
\a  reached 
tnyself  at 


m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


147 


the  station,  hastened  to  Vancouver,  to  greet  the  newly 
arrived,  and  to  assist  them  in  their  first  attempts  to 
navigate  the  Walamet  in  a  mode  of  voyaging  to  which 
they  were  strangers,  and  to  obtain  storage  at  V  ancouver 
for  a  part  of  the  very  large  and  liberal  supplies  which 
the  Board  had  appropriated  to  carry  on  the  objects  of  the 
mission ;  and  to  take  measures  to  K)rward  the  rest  up  the 
Walamet,  where  they  would  immediately  be  required ; 
which,  in  ad  ition  to  the  baggage  to  be  transported,  viras 
a  work  of  some  magnitude,  and  it  was  found  that  some 
additional  help  was  required  to  effect  it.  He  therefore 
hired  Mr.  J.  L.  Whitcom,  an  American,  who  came 
with  Captain  Hinckley  as  second  mate,  but  with  the 
intention  of  remaining  in  the  country.  Some  time  after, 
he  was  employed  in  the  farming  department  of  the  mis- 
sion at  Walamet,  of  which  he  had  charge  for  several 
years  after.  This  new  accession  of  fifty  souls  filled  our 
house.  It  was  plain  that  more  houses  must  be  made. 
Mr.  Beers  set  up  his  anvil,  and  erected  a  small  shop. 
Mr.  Wilson  was  carpenter  and  joiner;  but  the  material 
for  his  axe  and  plane  was  in  the  forests.  The  subjects 
of  the  healing  art  were  not  so  inaccessible,  and  Dr. 
White  could  employ  his  skill  in  his  appropriate  work 
at  once ;  and  my  humble  self,  famous  oefore,  dropped 
into  obscurity ! 

After  an  agreeable  visit  from  Capt.  Hinckley  and 
his  lady,  in  the  height  of  strawberries  and  cream,  they 
took  their  leave,  with  our  best  wishes  and  earnest 
prayers  for  their  good.  She  is  since  dead,  and  he 
resides  in  California.  To  Mr.  Whitcom  he  felt  himself 
much  indebted,  having  had  a  very  badly-diseased  leg 
cured  by  him  perfectly,  in  the  use  of  very  simple  re- 
medies, which  had  been  of  many  years'  standing,  and 
for  which  he  had  expended  hundreds  of  dollars  on 
various  physicians,  wholly  in  vain.  Not  long  after  the 
departure  of  Capt.  H.,  Mr.  Shepard  was  attacked  with 
a  lever,  which  reduced  him  very  low ;  but  by  careful 
attention  he  gained  his  usual  health,  which  we  felt  laid 
U8  under  new  obligations  to  our  heavenly  Father  in 


«?- 


U  5' 


IP 


'It '  1J 

*-4i  ■ 


'■i  h' 


'i  M 


;: 


V'. 


# 


"sr 


i;!! 


148 


TEN  YSAR8  IN  OREGON. 


sparing  one  to  us  whose  services  seemed  almost  indis- 
pensable. Thus  were  our  eyes  saved  from  tearsy  and 
we  sung  of  the  mercies  of  God* 

"About  this  period  an  atrocious  attempt  was  made  to 
murder  an  Inman  chief,  of  the  Calapooya  tribe.  Some 
enemy  of  his,  as  it  was  afterward  found,  had  hired  an 
Indian,  who  was  formerly  his  slave,  to  go  and  assas- 
sinate his  old  master.  So  under  cover  of  the  night  he 
approached  the  chieftain's  lodge,  as  he  lay  wrapped  in 
unconscious  slumbers,  and  marking  the  place  of  his 
rest,  to  make  sure  of  his  victim,  he  aimed  with  deadly 
design  at  his  head,  fired  his  musket,  and  escaped.  Next 
morning,  which  was  sabbath,  he  was  found  alive, 
drenched  in  his  blood ;  and  though  badly  wounded,  yet 
perhaps  not  mortally.  He  was  taken  and  brought  on 
a  litter  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  mission  house,  where 
he  was  laid  on  a  table,  and  examined  by  Dr.  White. 
One  of  the  balls  had  cut  away  a  portion  of  the  upper 
part  of  the  throat,  opening  a  passage  for  the  breath, 
and  severed  the  lower  jaw,  carrying  away  some  of  the 
teeth,  and  then  lodged  in  the  right  arm,  above  the  elbow, 
fracturing  the  bone;  and  the  other  ball  had  passed 
through  a  portion  of  the  breast,  and  then,  entering  the 
thumb  on  the  left  hand,  at  the  large  joint,  passed  through 
beneath  the  hollow  of  the  hand,  and  lodged  at  the  larce 
joint  of  the  little  finger.  His  wounds  were  carefuUy 
dressed,  and  he  was  in  the  care  of  the  mission  till  he 
recovered.  But  for  all  this  care  and  attention  he  showed 
himself  most  undeserving — ^no  gratitude  was  mani- 
fested; and  he  boasted  that  the  ''Bostons,**  as  he  termed 
us,  "should  never  make  him  good." 

The  mission  school  was  now  in  the  charge  of  Miss 
Johnson,  who  laboured  assiduously  to  promote  the 
improvement  of  her  pupils ;  but  the  amount  of  labour 
to  be  done  took  many  of  them  away  from  their  studies 
much  of  the  time,  which  much  retarded  their  progress ; 
besides,  there  was  much  sickness  among  them,  and  this 
had  an  influence  on  the  prosperity  of  the  school,  for 
which  there  was  no  remedy.    In  the  settlement  near 


sunff 

J.  £ 

thou 

has 

much 

that 

We 

and 

grace 


idif' 
and 

leto 
Jome 
id  an 
ssas- 
ht  he 
ledin 
)f  his 
leadly 
Next 
alive, 
id,  yet 
ght  on 
where 
^hite. 
upper 
breath, 
of  the 
elbow. 


ng  the 

hrough 
large 

irefully 
till  he 
lowed 
mani- 

termed 

3f  Miss 
ote  the 
labour 
studies 
x)gre8S ; 
and  this 
lool,  for 
mt  near 


'^'- 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


149 


US  there  were  two  happy  deaths  in  those  di^ys,  those  of 
Mrs.  Payethe  and  Mrs.  Hondo,  descended  from  French 
fathers  and  Indian  mothers.  They  manifested  a  joyful 
hope  in  God,  particularly  the  latter ;  but  though  with 
the  former  it  was  not  so  bright,  yet  there  appeared  good 
grounds  to  hope  in  her  happy  exchange.  Another 
case  was  that  of  Joseph,  their  brother,  who  died  be- 
fore them — a  boy  who  used  to  attend  the  sabbath 
school,  and  was  always  very  attentive  to  his  books  and 
the  instructions  that  were  given  him.  During  his  sick- 
ness, which  was  a  consumption,  he  was  very  serious 
and  prayeiful,  and  was  baptised  at  his  own  request. 
We  h£^  good  hope  in  his  death.  He  was  aged  about 
seventeen  years.  They  were  all  interred  in  the  mission 
grave-yard,  "  These  are  the  Lord's  doings,  and  they 
are  marvellous  in  our  eyes." 

Take  now  the  history  of  a  sabbath,  July  16th.  It 
was  set  apart  for  our  communion  service^  At  11,  A. 
M.,  we  assembled  near  the  mission  house,  in  a  grove 
of  firs.  The  congregation  embraced  Frenchmen, 
Americans,  Indians,  half-breeds,  the  mis^on  family 
and  school,  and  some  others,  a  mixed  company  strange- 
ly thrown  together  in  this  distant  land.  All  were  de- 
cently clad,  wd  observed  a  becoming  deportment.  Mr. 
Jason  Lee  opened  the  meeting  with  thehynm,  "When 
all  thy  mercies,^'  &c.  After  the  singing,  the  marriage 
ceremony  was  performed,  and  Mr.  Jason  Lee  was  mar- 
ried to  Miss  Anna  Maria  Pittman,  and  Mr.  Cyrus  She- 
pard  to  Miss  Susan  Downing.  A  third  couple  having 
been  married,  "  Watchman,  tell  us  of  the  night,"  was 
sung,  and  prayer  was  offered  by  Mr.  Wilson.  Mr. 
J.  Lee  then  preached  on  Numbers  x,  19:  *'Come 
thou  with  us,  and  we  will  do  thee  good ;  for  the  Lord 
has  spoken  good  concerning  Israel."  Many  seemed 
much  affected  under  the  word,  and  the  communion 
that  followed  was  a  season  of  refreshing  to  our  souls. 
We  now  held  a  kind  of  love-feast,  and  all  the  brethren 
and  sisters  brought  in  their  offerings,  and  the  Spirit  of 
grace  rested  upon  us.    Some  others  also  spoke,  who 


"V- 


1 5'  411'l 


"tiif 


li 


150 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


seemed  alarmed  on  account  of  their  sins,  and  we  re» 
ceived  two  men  into  society.  The  number  of  commu- 
nicants was  fourteen.  Thus  did  the  God  of  missions 
meet  with  his  servants  in  the  wilderness,  making  "  glad 
the  desert  and  the  solitary  place,"  for  his  name^  sake. 
To  the  Lord  be  all  the  praise  for  his  faithfulness  and 
truth.    His  word  is  steadfast  for  ever ! 

In  September  of  the  same  year  we  received  a  second 
reinforcement  to  the  Oregon  mission,  Mr.  David  Les- 
lie and  wife  and  three  children,  Miss  Margaret  J.  Smith, 
and  Mr.  H.  K.  W.  Perkins.     Mr.  Shepard  and  the 
writer  met  them  on  their  arrival  at  Vancouver,  and  re- 
turned with  them  to  the  Walamet,  where  a  small  neigh- 
bouring house  being  purchased,  Mr.  Leslie  was  soon 
comfortably  located  with  his  family.     Messrs.  Leslie 
and  Perkins  were  both  preachers.    This  increased  our 
numbers,  and  enlarged  our  circle  of  friends  and  fellow- 
helpers.     But  with  these  our  responsibilities  were  also 
increased.     To  make  provision  for  the  sick,  it  was  de- 
termined to  build  an  hospital ;  and  a  building  was  com- 
menced, but  so  slowly  did  the  work  advance,  that  it  was 
not  finished  till  1840,  and  then  it  became  necessary  to 
occupy  it  for  a  dwelling-house,  to  accommodate   the 
reinforcement  of  1839.     Our  attention  was  now  turned 
toward  the  Calapooyas,  and  efforts  were  made  to  give 
them  instruction  by  holding  meetings  among  them,  and 
visiting  them  at  their  lodges ;  and  for  their  special  bene- 
fit a  missionary  society  was  formed,  and  a  very  liberal 
sum  was  devoted  to  that  object,  about  four  hundred 
dollars.    The  object  of  the  society  was  to  induce  them 
to  locate  on  a  piece  of  ground,  and  till  the  soil,  and  to 
assist  them  in  the  building  of  comfortable  houses.    A 
man  was  hired  to  help  them,  and  some  efforts  were 
made  in  order  to  induce  them  to  work  and  help  them- 
selves.    There  was,  however,  so  much  apathy  among 
them,  that,  after  having  used  various  means  for  a  year 
quite  in  vain,  they  abandoned  the  attempt.    Yet  meet- 
ings have  been  held  among  them  from  time  to  time 
since,  and  at  periods  when  their  location  admitted  it. 


a  ricl 


Tni 

Dalls 
missiol 


* 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


151 


meetings  have  been  regularly  holden ;  and  a  house  has 
been  built  near  the  mission  mill  which  affords  them  a 
shelter,  in  worship,  during  the  rains.  « 

Since  the  coming  of  the  first  reinforcement  in  May, 
two  dwellirg  houses  had  been  built,  t>ne  of  logs,  and 
the  other  of  hewn  timber  and  sawed  plank,  and  the 
families  of  Dr.  White  and  Mr.  Beers  were  comfortably 
located.  In  November  Mr.  Perkins  was  married  to 
Miss  Johnson.  The  increase  of  our  numbers  made 
our  seasons  of  public  and  social  worship  more  interest- 
ing. At  this  time  the  question  of  occupying  new  sta- 
tions came  up,  and  it  was  the  opinion  of  all  the  breth- 
ren that  it  should  be  done  as  soon  as  practicable.  This 
was  accordingly  done  the  next  year  at  the  Dalls,  as  will 
be  seen  in  the  next  chapter  ;  and  subsequently  at  Nes- 
qually,  on  Pugil's  Sound,  where  Mr.  Wilson  was  labour- 
ing alone  for  several  months,  and  built  a  house,  which 
was  afterward  occupied  by  another  missionary  in  1840. 
The  wants  of  the  country  as  a  mission  field  were 
brought  forward  and  discussed,  and  the  judgment  pre- 
vailed, that  much  more  help  was  needed  to  do  the 
work,  and  that  the  time  had  come  when  Mr.  Jason  Lee 
should  go  to  the  States,  and  obtain  the  men  and  means 
wanted.  After  this  he  made  a  trip  to  Umbaqua ;  and 
then  prepared  for  the  journey  to  the  States;  leaving 
all  for  the  cause  of  Christ,  from  whom  may  he  receive 
a  rich  reward  for  ever,  is  the  prayer  of  the  writer ! 


ii  i 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Mission  established  at  the  Dalls — Visited  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  on  his  way 
to  the  United  States — Journeys  of  missionaries — Meetings  among  the 
Indians — Death  of  Mrs.  J.  Lee— Escape  of  Mr.  Leslie  and  Mrs.  White 
from  imminent  danger — Description  of  Mr.  D.  Lee's  journey  to  and  from 
Walamet — Carousals  among  the  DalU — Fire  eater — Medicine  men — Cir« 
cumstances  related,  illustrative  of  the  character  of  the  Dalls. 

The  members  of  the  Oregon  Mission  considering  the 
Dalls  on  the  Columbia  River  as  a  promising  field  for 
missionary  effort,  it  was  determined  to  begin  a  new 


Hit  ' 


V 


Ji 
t! 
i; 


I 


152 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Station  at  that  place,  which  is  about  eighty  miles  above 
Fort  Vancouver,  and  accordingly,  in  1838,  Mr.  Perkins 
and  'the  writer  were  appointed  to  proceed  to  the  Dalls 
for  that  purpose. 

Leaving  the  Walamet  station  on  the  14th  of  March, 
they  embarked  in  two  canoes  with  a  small  cargo  of 
supplies,  passed  down  the  Walamet  River,  and  then 
ascended  the  Columbia  to  the  place  of  destination, 
where  they  arrived  on  Wednesday  the  22d. 

About  three  miles  below  the  Balls,  and  a  half  mile 
from  the  shore  on  the  south  side,  was  found  a  valuable 
spring  of  water,  some  rich  land,  and  a  good  supply  of 
timber,  oak,  and  pine,  and  an  elevated  and  pleasant 
location  for  a  house,  almost  in  their  shade ;  wim  a  fine 
extended  view  of  the  Columbia  River,  three  miles  on 
either  hand.  The  back  ground  was  broken,  and  hilly, 
and  thinly  wooded.  Here,  about  the  1st  of  April,  a 
house  was  begun.  The  Indians  assisted  in  cutting  the 
timber,  and  bringing  it  upon  the  spot.  Meantime, 
Mr.  Jason  Lee  arrived  on  his  way  to  the  United  States, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Edwards,  and  another  gentleman, 
Mr.  £wing  of  Missouri,  and  two  Indian  boys  of  the 
Chenook  tribe,  W.  M.  Brooks  and  Thomas  Adams, 
who  had  been  some  time  in  the  mission  school  at  the 
Walamet  station.  The  object  of  his  visit  was  to 
obtain  additional  facilities  to  carry  on,  more  efficiently 
and  extensively,  the  missionary  work  in  the  Oregon 
Territory.  April  9th,  having  hired  horses  of  the  Indians 
to  convey  himself  to  WallsSi-wallah,  where  he  was  to 
purchase  the  horses  needed  to  make  the  tour  of  the 
mountains,  that  being  the  usual  place  of  outfit  for 
parties  going  by  land  into  the  interior,  he  took  an 
affectionate  leave  of  his  friends,  Mr.  Perkins  and  the 
writer,  and  set  off  on  his  arduous  journey,  accompanied 
bv  the  afore-named  gentlemen  and  the  native  boys. 
The  same  day  Mr.  Perkins  embarked  in  a  canoe  for 
the  Walamet  station  in  order  to  bring  his  wife  to  the 
Dalls,  and  returned  in  safety  on  the  5tn  of  May.  The 
building  of  the  house  went  on  amidst  many  interrup- 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


153 


tions,  and  it  was  finished  before  winter.  Mr.  Perkins* 
family  occupied  it  long  before  it  was  roofed ;  but  as 
the  climate  was  dry,  and  rain  seldom  fell  in  sumnaer,  it 
was  quite  safe.  Several  trips  were  made  to  Walamet 
and  V  ancouver  by  water  during  the  year  for  supplies. 
One  journey  was  made  to  Fort  Wallah-wallah  to  get 
horses,  and  another  over  land  to  the  Walamet  station, 
to  obtain  cattle.  These  various  journeys  and  voyages 
took  us  away  from  the  station  about  five  months  each, 
during  the  year.  Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  the 
station  we  began  to  hold  meetings  with  the  Indians  on 
the  sabbath;  speaking  to  them  in  the  "  jargon,"  through 
an  interpreter.  This  imperfect  medium  oi  communica- 
tion sprang  from  the  traffic  of  the  whites  with  the 
Indians,  and  it  embraces  some  English,  some  French, 
and  many  Indian  words,  some  Chenook,  some  Wallah- 
wallah,  and  some  of  other  tribes,  and  is  understood  more 
or  less  by  individuals  in  almost  all  the  tribes  beyDnd 
the  mountains.  Their  behaviour  at  worship  was  very 
serious,  and  most  of  them  would  kneel  m  time  of 
prayer.  Our  meetings  were  held  without,  among  the 
oaks,  or  under  a  pine,  whose  cooling  shade  screened 
us  from  the  btirning  sun.  A  few  scattering  stones 
afforded  seats  for  some,  and  others  sat  quietly  upon  the 
ground ;  a  manner  of  sitting  to  which  they  are  well 
used,  and  which  they  prefer  to  any  other.  Often  was 
the  soul  of  the  speaker  refreshed  while  declaring  to 
them  "  the  love  wherewith  God  hath  loved  us,"  and 
the  hope  that  his  labour  would  not  be  in  vain  "  in  the 
Lord,"  cheered  his  heart.  In  tht  month  of  June  our 
joy  was  suddenly  turned  to  heaviness  by  the  occurrence, 
on  the  26th,  of  that  mournful  event,  the  death  of  Mrs. 
Jason  Lee,  within  a  year  from  her  marriage,  and  less 
than  three  months  since  her  husband  left  her  to  go  to  the 
United  States  !  An  express,  with  the  melancholy  and 
heart-rending  intelligence,  was  sent  over  the  nountains 
to  the  bereaved  husband,  which  overtook  him  in  a  little 
more  than  sixty  days,  at  the  Shawnee  Mission.  The 
bearer  of  the  unwelcome  message  reached  the  place 

7* 


.11  -f,  i  1 


'  ■  '|{ 


Il 
'  I 

i    I 

^ 


154 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


f   . 


lf:h: 


about  midnight.  Who  can  tell  the  anguish  of  that 
awful  hour  to  him  who  was  thus  cleft  in  twain,  by  an 
inscrutable  stroke  of  unerring  providence.  He  needed 
the  arm  of  God  to  support  him,  and  on  that  arm  he 
reHed.  His  deceased  wife  was  buried  on  the  28th,  in 
one  grave  with  her  little  son.  Her  funeral  sermon  was 
preached  by  Mr.  Leslie.  She  was  the  first  white 
woman  who  died  in  Oregon.  A  decent  marble  marks 
the  place  of  her  interment,  near  the  spot  where  the 
missionaries  commenced  their  labours  in  1834,  on  the 
bank  of  the  Walamet.  There  rests  her  crumbling  dust 
in  hope  of  a  glorious  resurrection.  "  The  righteous 
hath  hope  in  his  death." 

:  In  the  month  of  August,  Mr.  Leslie  and  Mrs.  White 
came  from  the  Walamet  station  to  the  Dalls  on  a  visit, 
Mrs.  W.  having  her  babe  with  her.  After  remaining 
a  short  time,  they  embarked  on  their  return  to  the 
Walamet.  At  the  Cascades,  as  they  were  passing 
down  the  lower  rapids,  they  ran  among  the  breakers, 
filled,  and  upset  tneir  canoe,  and  were  in  imminent 
danger  of  being  drowned.  Mr.  Leslie,  though  unable  to 
swim,  laid  hold  of  Mrs.  W.,  and  throwing  his  arm  over 
the  canoe  which  was  floating  near  him,  an  Indian  on 
the  other  side,  the  same  instant,  seized  him  by  the 
wrist,  and  in  this  way  they  were  carried  a  mile,  and 
escaped  safe  to  land.  On  righting  the  canoe,  Mrs. 
W.'s  infant  son  was  found  entangled  among  the  floating 
baggage ;  but  its  spirit  had  fled.  Some  Indians  from 
the  interior,  on  their  way  to  Fort  Vancouver,  seeing 
their  danger,  came  to  their  assistance,  and  kindly  took 
Mts.  W.  and  Mr.  Leslie  into  their  own  canoe,  and 
paddled  them  to  Fort  Vancouver  as  quick  as  possible, 
where  they  were  received  by  the  gentlemen  and  ladies 
of  the  company  with  much  sympathy  and  hospitality. 
Thus  were  mercy  and  judgment  mingled  together. 
Verily  may  we  in  judgment  sing  aloud  of  thy  mercy, 
O  Lord ;  war  from  the  waves  that  threatened  destruction 
thjjr  servants  have  escaped.  Praise  the  Lord,  who  hath 
ittm  ufiy  for  his  name -s  sake.. 


I  #'*i^.T^T»5;i'Ti 


C'i^\r\^''.''':^'. 


.JI>1 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


155 


that 
y  an 
eded 
m  he 
ih,  in 
I  was 
white 
narks 
e  the 
>n  the 
5  dust 
iteous 


September  3d.  The  writer  left  the  Dalls  to  so  to 
the  Walamet  over  land  after  cattle,  a  journey  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles,  taking  ten  horses,  own- 
ed by  the  Oregon  Mission,  and  ten  others,  some  of 
them  belonging  to  the  Indians  who  were  going  to  assist 
him,  four  in  number,  and  a  supply  of  provisions  for  six 
days.  One  of  my  Indians,  the  oldest,  probably  from 
forty  to  fifty,  was  blind  of  an  eye,  which  had  been  de- 
stroyed by  a  violent  inflammation,  that  nearly  caused 
his  death.  But  in  his  extremity  he  fancied  some  kind 
visiter  from  the  invisible  world,  who  assured  him  he 
should  recover ;  upon  which  he  soon  revived,  ^xeatly 
to  the  surprise  of  his  friends  around  him,  who  liewed 
his  restoration  as  mysterious,  since  they  had  looked 
upon  him  as  one  dead,  and  on  this  account  he  received 
the  name  of  Uk-woui-a-neete,  that  is,  "  heart,"  or  "  life." 
He  was  of  Chenook  descent,  and  a  resident  at  the  Dalls. 
Another  was  a  Wallah-wallah,  a  stout  young  man  of 
twenty-five  years,  good  stature,  with  a  fine  forehead, 
and,  what  is  rare,  a  Roman  nose.  His  name,  which 
signifies  to  "  become  dry,"  "  empty,"  or  "  destitute," 
was  Tah-lac-e-ou-it,  and  was  given  to  him  because 
once  he  had  considerable  property  which  he  had  lost 
by  gambling,  to  which  he  was  much  addicted.  One 
of  the  remaining  two  was  a  Chenook  with  the  usual 
features,  a  flattened  forehead  and  a  wide  mouth,  about 
twenty  years  old.  Proud  of  his  skill  in  directing  a  canoe, 
and  of  his  supposed  horsemanship,  he  felt  and  boasted 
himself  a  man.  My  other,  a  Wallah- wallah,  was  a 
shrewd  young  rogue,  a  gamester,  dishonest  to  ^l<c  core ; 
and,  besides  these,  a  poor  cripple,  with  a  short,  shri- 
velled, crooked,  cumbersome  leg.  To  help  his  well 
one,  he  carried  a  strong  cane  or  crutch,  six  to  seven 
feet  long,  on  which  he  poised  himr^g-I  as  he  sprang 
forward  from  one  place  to  another,  two  yards  or  more 
at  a  leap.  Thus  he  was  active  on  a  sinsle  leg,  even 
to  admiration.  Our  horses  are  now  saddled ;  we  mount, 
and  away.  Trotting  is  an  unfashionable  gait  in  Oregon. 
A  cloud  of  dust  marks  our  course  westward.    In  sight 


!l 


'...f 


y  **^'i 


mm 


,:»., 

1ii!..( 


I!! 


156 


-% 


TEN   YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


of  the  mission  we  cross  a  beautiful  plain  of  grass,  half 
a  mile  wide  by  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  spotted  here 
and  there  with  small  basaltic  islands.  On  our  right 
flows  the  Columbia ;  on  our  left  are  hills  two  hundred 
to  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  fringed  at  their  base 
with  a  narrow,  lengthened  strip  of  oak  and  pine.  Leav- 
ing this  plain,  we  begin  to  ascend  among  hills,  diverg- 
ing south-westward  from  the  river  in  our  course.  The 
country  for  twenty  miles  is  broken,  sparsely  wooded 
with  yellow  pine  and  stinted  oak.  Some  of  the  former 
are  largo,  and  may  well  be  called  the  monarchs  of  the 
hills.  A  long  kind  of  moss  grows  upon  them,  which 
the  natives  use  as  an  article  of  food.  The  grass  is  as 
dry  as  if  David's  imprecation  on  the  mountains  of  Gilboa 
had  fallen  upon  the  thirsty  hills.  Having  passed  this 
region,  we  reached  the  valley  of  the  White  Creek  about 
noon,  where  we  halted  to  bait  our  horsed  and  take  din- 
ner; water  from  a  cooling  rill  relieving  our  thirst. 
Having  mounted  fresh  horses,  we  pursued  our  way 
along  the  elevated  base  of  high  hills  on  the  left,  and  in 
about  two  hours  came  to  the  creek  which,  for  many 
miles,  lay  far  beneath  on  the  right.  It  was  three  rods 
wide,  and  about  three  feet  deep,  of  a  milky  whiteness, 
filled  with  large  smooth  stones.  However,  we  crossed 
it  without  disaster.  Here  we  entered  the  forest,  at  the 
base  of  that  part  of  the  President's  range  of  mountains 
lying  south  of  the  Columbia,  on  whose  summits  stand 
four  ancient  volcanoes  covered  with  perpetual  snow. 
On  we  went,  in  a  narrow,  crooked  path,  among  wind- 
falls and  under-brush,  dodging  right  and  left  to  avoid 
contact  with  the  limbs  that  stretched  across  our  way. 
At  dusk  came  to  a  spot  where  the  hazel  and  brake  bore 
rule,  permitting  only  a  little  grass  to  spring  in  their 
shade.  Here  we  dismounted,  nobbled  our  horses,  and 
encamped  for  the  night.  A  fire  was  struck,  some  dried 
salmon  and  lamprey-eels  roasted ;  and  we  sat  down  and 
made  a  good  hearty  Indian  supper.  After  a  hymn  and 
prayer,  we  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  blankets,  lay 
aqwn  under  the  bushes  to  avoid  the  dampness  of  the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


157 


mow. 
wind- 
avoid 
way. 
bore 
their 
,  and 
dried 
and 
and 
I,  lay 
if  the 


n 


night,  and  rested  sweetly  till  the  dawn  of  the  next 
morning.    A  long  day's  march  was  before  us,  and  we 
made  an  early  start.    My  one-eyed  man  led  the  way, 
followed  by  the  horses  in  bands,  three  or  four  to  a  man, 
one  bringing  up  the  rear.     Going  west  a  few  miles,  we 
came  to  a  branch  of  White  Creek,  which  empties  into 
it  below  the  ford  before  described.     Up  this,  on  the 
south  side,  we  travelled  several  miles,  and  came  to  a 
rugged  mountain  barrier,  where  the  water  was  confined 
in  a  deep  ravine  amid  high  precipitous  banks.    Here 
the  trail  crossed  to  the  other  side.     Our  route  now  lay 
several  miles  over  a  high  hill,  and  then  fell  again  upon 
the  stream  we  had  left,  and  descended  along  its  tortu- 
ous course,  one  side  and  the  other,  and  along  its  bed. 
Leaving  this  rugged  path  without  regret,  we  rose  grad- 
ually to  the  height  of  land  lying  to  the  south  of  the 
Cascades  of  the  Columbia  fifteen  to  twenty  miles.    The 
horses  had  become  hungry,   and   the  declining  sun 
already  chided  our  tardy  progress.     A  lone  way  to 
grass — stopping  at  such  a  time,  turning  out  of  the  path 
to  browse  on  the  leaves — 'tis  too  much  !     "Go  along, 
Gray  !"  "  Hup,  hup !"     The  woods  ring  with  continual 
shouts  to  our  rebel  quadrupeds.     A  long,  hard  drive 
brought  us  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  we  began  to  de- 
scend, with  new  courage  and  quickened  pace,  toward 
the  valley  of  Sandy  Creek,  where  a  good  encamp- 
ment awaited  our  arrival.    We  passed  on  through  a 
miry  track,  darkened  by  majestic  evergreens.  We  were 
in  the  midst  of  these  when  night  came  on  and  com- 
pelled us  to  encamp.     Some  of  the  horses  were  tied  to 
trees,  and  the  rest  were  guarded  during  the  night.    Next 
morning  we  decamped  early,  and  soon  came  to  the  Sandy. 
This  rapid  stream  rises  at  the  baseof  Mount  Hood,  whose 
silver  pummit  appears  to  rest  on  the  sky  about  fifteen 
miles  off.     The  fires  that  once  raged  within  its  bowels, 
and  blazed  at  its  top,  seem  to  have  been  long  extinguish- 
ed. Native  tradition  says  that  fire  was  anciently  seen  upon 
it,  and  that  sounds  were  heard  by  the  hunters,  who  ap- 
proached near  it,  like  the  report  of  muskets,  and  that 


ai'vi 


.•!-.tji 


1&8 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


^1 


it  is  inhabited  by  a  peculiar  race  of  men  who  are  desti- 
tute of  the  powers  of  vision.  Travelling  a  few  miles 
down  the  Sandy,  we  found  a  good  encampment  for  our 
half-starved  horses.  This  stream  has  a  crooked,  rocky 
channel,  and  rushes  on  in  a  continuous  rapid  through 
a  good  part  of  its  course.  At  high  water  it  overleaps 
its  banks  and  rolls  on  in  a  sweeping  torrent,  filled  with 
volcanic  sand,  and  stones,  and  floating  rubbish,  causing 
perpetual  changes  in  its  bed.  Its  valley,  in  some  parts 
one-fourth  of  a  mile  wide,  exhibits  piles  of  sand  and 
rounded  stones,  and  heaps  of  decaying  drift-wood,  scat- 
tered along  its  surface,  with  clumps  of  willows  and 
dogwood,  and  a  young  growth  of  firs  and  white  pines, 
and  is  carpeted  here  and  there  with  grass.  On  both 
sides  the  hich  hills  are  thickly  studded  with  heavy 
timber,  chieny  fir,  with  some  pine,  hemlock,  and  cedar. 
This  hilly  and  mountainous  region  abounds  with  a  va- 
riety of  berries,  and  is  the  September  resort  of  many 
Indians,  who  pick  and  dry  them,  in  large  quantities,  for 
food.  The  most  valued  is  a  large  kind  of  whortleberry. 
Some,  engaged  in  their  berry  harvest,  were  encamped 
near  us.  On  coming  here  we  found  that  my  guide,  an 
old  chieftain  by  the  name  of  Wamcuta,  who  had  en- 
gaged to  meet  me  at  this  place  and  conduct  me  through 
to  the  Walamet,  was  absent  on  an  elk  hunt,  and  when 
he  would  return  none  could  tell.  After  waiting  three 
days  in  vain,  fears  arose  that  our  stock  of  provisions 
would  not  suffice  for  the  journey  if  we  tarried  any 
longer.  My  old  "  one-eye,  having  some  years  before 
been  through,  in  our  necessity  consented  to  act  as  guide. 
Saturday,  September  9th,  raised  camp,  and  travelled 
down  the  creek  all  day.  Good  grass  tor  the  animals. 
Put  my  company  and  myself  on  a  small  allowance  of 
food— salmon,  dried  eels,  bread.  From  this  encamp- 
ment the  trail  took  the  east  side  of  the  creek,  and  soon 
after  ascended  a  hill  that  ran  parallel  to  it,  traversing 
its  lengthened  ridge  several  miles,  and  then  descending 
to  the  creek,  crossed  it  to  the  west  side,  and  thence, 
mnning  westward  over  rolling  prairies  and  woodland, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


159 


in  two  days  reaches  the  Walamet  at  the  falls.  The  trail 
that  led  to  the  ascen^:  of  this  ridge  being  covered  under 
several  generations  cf  leaves,  was  soon  utterly  lost ; 
and  after  toiling  most  of  the  day  among  the  dense  wind- 
falls on  its  side,  we  found  it  inaccessible.  Turning 
back,  we  made  our  shortest  way  to  the  creek,  and 
crossed  to  the  other  side  on  Monday  afternoon. 

September  11th,  travelled  a  short  distance,  and  en- 
camped. No  grass  for  the  starving  horses,  and  a  dense 
wilderness  around.  Eight  days  out.  Gloomy  prospects 
ahead.  Next  morning  gathered  our  scattered  horses, 
and  set  forward  to  explore  the  dark  unknown  before 
us.  Now  descending  into  a  deep  defile,  then  flouncing 
through  a  miry  creek  at  the  bottom ;  then  climbing  a 
steep  and  rugged  ascent,  winding  upward  among  fallen 
trees,  jumping  horses  over  high  logs,  axe  in  hand  cutting 
our  way  through  the  thick  underbrush.  At  great  labour 
we  have  almost  gained  the  top  of  a  high  hill  in  our 
course ;  but  here  we  meet  a  pile  of  wind-falls,  an  im- 
passable subject,  back  out,  wheel  the  horses,  a  retro- 
grade march,  a  turn  to  the  right  or  left ;  a  circuitous, 
rising  and  falling,  zig-zag  route  along  the  hill  side, 
the  woods  echoing  our  unheeded  orders  to  our  jaded 
horses.  Toilinc,  pushing,  driving,  all  day.  Much  haste, 
little  speed,  little  progress. 

Another  woods  encampment.  Dark  prospects  for  the 
poor  famished  horses ;  only  leaves  and  brusn.  One  of 
them,  not  liking  the  country,  took  French  leave  in  the 
niffht,  and  we  did  not  recover  him.  We  went  forward 
till  noon,  when  all  our  provisions  were  spent,  save  one 
small  loaf  of  bread.  Being  very  hungry,  this  was  di- 
vided equally  among  us,  and  we  went  on  in  the  after- 
noon in  the  strength  of  it.  As  we  were  about  to  camp, 
just  at  dusk,  one  of  the  horses  fell  down  exhausted, 
unable  to  go  further.  One  of  the  Indians  soon  des- 
patched him  with  a  musket-ball,  as  he  had  been  directed ; 
and  some  of  his  flesh  was  soon  roasting  before  a  fire,  on 
which  we  made  a  hearty  supper !  Yes,  eat  horse ! 
tmd  glad  to  get  even  that !    Four  crotches  were  set  in 


111  * 


I  ii 


160 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


* 


the  ground,  and  four  poles  were  laid  into  them ;  and 
across  these  several  other  ones,  both  ways,  a  few  inches 
apart,  forming  a  kind  of  Indian  gridiron.  On  this  was 
soon  spread  a  bountiful  supply  of  horseflesh,  and  built 
under  it  a  fire  of  dry  bark,  which  soon  dried,  smoked, 
and  roasted  it  "closh,"  good.  Having  thus  secured  a 
stock  for  ourselves,  we  only  felt  anxious  for  our  poor 
horses,  which  were  passing  another  night  of  famine. 

Next  morning  rose  early,  and  renewed  our  attack  on 
horse  meat.  Packed  what  we  had  designed  for  the 
purpose,  and  continued  our  march.  A  few  miles  we 
came  to  open  ground,  and  pushed  our  way  through 
high  brakes  several  miles ;  and  at  noon  came  to  a  creek 
where,  to  our  joy,  we  saw  grass  again.  On  this  stream 
we  encamped. 

Next  day,  September  14th,  we  passed  on  through 
timber  and  prairie,  and  e:*  jamped  where  our  animals 
could  get  a  good  supply  of  grass.  Here  we  rested  about 
Iwenty-four  hours.  On  the  15th,  after  going  forward 
three  or  lour  miles,  we  were  compelled  to  leave  five  of 
our  animals  on  a  small  brook,  at  the  foot  of  a  very  steep 
hill,  which  in  their  famished  condition  they  had  not 
strength  to  ascend.  Went  a  short  distance,  and  en- 
camped in  the  woods.  The  horses  had  a  plenty  of 
good  feed.  Next  day,  sabbath,  the  16th,  had  a  short 
breakfast,  and  reserved  a  part  of  that  for  a  time  of 
greater  need ;  but  to  our  joy  we  came  to  the  Clakamas 
River  about  noon,  where  we  baited  our  horses,  and  ate 
the  last  of  our  dried  horse  meat,  and  then  went  on  four 
miles  to  the  Clakamas  Indian  village,  where  we  obtained 
salmon,  ate  to  satisfaction,  and  rested  till  Monday. 

On  Monday  reached  the  mission  just  in  time  to  pre- 
vent a  party  of  the  settlers  from  going  in  search  of  me, 
fearing  some  disaster  had  befallen  me  in  the  journey, 
as  they  knew  we  had  left  the  Dalls,  and  looked  for  me 
eight  or  ten  days  earlier.  My  sun-burnt  face,  prominent 
cheek  bones,  and  long  beard,  did  not  make  me  unwel- 
come among  them.  After  nine  days  spent  in  Walamet, 
on  the  27th  we  started  for  the  Dalls,  with  fourteen  head 


came 
or  two 
could 
bably 
therefc 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


161 


of  cattle.  Having  a  good  guide,  and  two  white  men, 
in  place  of  my  young  Chenook  and  Wallah-wallah,  the 
return  journey  was  made  without  much  difficulty.  On 
reaching  the  Clakamas,  it  was  found  that  the  Indian 
who  had  been  engaged  to  bring  in  the  tired  horses  had 
failed  to  fulfil  his  promise,  so  taking  "One-eye"  with 
me,  we  went  to  get  them,  leaving  the  cattle  party  to  go 
on  by  themselves  till  we  could  return  and  overtake 
them.  Friday  evening  we  came  to  the  place,  but  found 
one  horse  missing,  which  we  were  unable  to  find. 
Three  of  them,  a  mare  and  two  colts,  by  slow  stages^ 
we  got  up  the  hill ;  but  the  horse  could  go  but  few 
steps,  and  the  exertion  caused  his  heart  to  beat  with 
such  violence  as  to  shake  his  whole  frame,  and  it  could 
be  heard  several  yards.  His  weakened  limbs  refusing 
longer  to  move,  or  bear  up  his  wasted  form,  he  fell  upon 
his  side,  his  head  beneath  his  body,  and  died !  Poor 
horse  !  The  relator  felt  like  weeping  over  his  misfor- 
tunes; and  had  he  been  able  would  gladly  have  carried 
him  to  the  top  of  the  hill  before  he  fell  down,  slain  by 
famine.  There  was  relief  in  the  thought,  "he  will 
hunger  no  more."  Night  came  on  with  heavy  showers, 
from  which  we  hud  no  shelter  to  protect  us,  and  we  were 
soon  drenched  from  head  to  foot.  Next  day  evening 
to  the  Clakamas  River.    Here  "  One-eye  "  re- 


came 


mained  in  charge  of  the  horses,  and  the  writer  rode  on 
four  miles  to  the  village,  where  he  arrived  about  mid-  . 
night,  wet,  weary,  and  hungry.  He  went  into  a  lodge, 
found  fire  and  dried  salmon,  ate,  and  warmed,  and  then 
tried  to  sleep,  but  had  little  success,  being  much  annoyed 
by  small  insects  common  among  Indians.  Fleas?  Yes. 
Monday  we  went  on  with  the  cattle  party,  and  reached 
the  Dallsjsafely  on  Friday,  October  5th.  The  old  man 
who  was  to  have  guided  me  through  to  the  Walamet 
came  to  the  place  where  he  was  to  nave  met  us  a  day 
or  two  after  we  had  left,  and  went  in  pursuit  of  us ;  but 
could  not  follow  our  trail,  and  so  returned.  He  pro- 
bably supposed  we  should  not  be  along  so  soon,  and 
therefore  went  on  a  hunt,  which  eventuated  in  our  want 


ili.. 


162 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Ii^ 


of  his  services  as  a  guide,  which  would  have  prevented 
the  disasters  recorded  in  this  chapter;  yet,  with  grateful 
acknowledgments  of  the  care  of  our  heavenly  Father 
in  all  these  trials,  the  writer  brings  the  story  to  a  close, 
and  it  doubtless  has  interested  the  reader  more  agree- 
ably in  the  perusal  than  it  did  the  writer  in  being  a 
witness  and  an  actor  in  the  scene  described. 

Mr.  Perkins,  who  had  waited  long  and  with  much 
j^  solicitude  for  the  writer's  return,  was  at  length  sur- 
prise by  the  arrival  of  the  young  Chenook  who  went 
with  him.  "  Now-it-ka,"  said  he,  "  wake  si-yah  me-me- 
loosh  !"    "  Certainly  we  were  near  dying !     "  Tot-le- 
lum  cu-tan  me-me-loosh  !"  "  Ten  horses  died  !"  "  M oxt 
muc-a-muc  !"  "  We  ate  two  horses  !"  "  Mr.  Lee,  yok- 
ah  se-ah-hast  cah-quah  moxt  stone  cup-ah  skin  met- 
light !"   "  Mr.  Lee's  face  is  like  two  bones  with  the 
skin  drawn  over  them  !"  "  Ate  two  horses,  and  yet  as 
poor  as  a  rat !"  thought  the   hearer ;   "  incredible  !" 
Shortly  after  this,  Mr.  Perkins  and  his  wife  left  the 
Dalls  station,  and  embarked  in  a  canoe  for  the  Wala- 
met,  where   they   were  expecting  to  remain   some 
months.     When  the  writer  returned  they  had  been 
gone  some  days,  and  thus,  as  it  proved,  he  was  left 
comparatively  alone  through  the  next  winter ;  for  Mr. 
Perkins  was  prevented  by  the  inclemency  of  the  sea- 
son, and  could  not  reach  the  Dalls  till  about  the  middle 
of  February.      An  American,  named  Anderson,  who 
had  been  hired  about  the  commencement  of  our  labours 
at  this  station,  for  a  year  was  employed  in  procuring 
lumber,  overseeing  three   natives   and  one  Owyhee, 
who  were  engaged  in  sawing  boards.     Besides,  fencing 
timber  and  farming  utensils  were   required  for  the 
ensuing  spring ;    also  bridles,   collars,   traces,   a  full 
equipment  tor  the  horses  needed — all  must  be  made  ; 
and  this  demanded  not  a  little  of  the  writer's  time. 
And  one  voyage  to  the  Walamet  occupied  three  weeks, 
leaving  but  a  part  of  the  time  to  be  employed  in  the 
study  of  the  Indian  language.    Morning  and  evening 
the  Scriptures  were  read  and  expounded  to  the  natives, 


cer 
famifi: 
by  the 
To 
skill 


nectec 
was  tj 
at  first 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


163 


who  chose  to  be  present  at  prayers.  The  usual  ser- 
vices of  the  sabbath  were  continued,  and  the  number 
attending  greater  than  in  the  warm  season.  This  was 
owing  to  the  fact,  that  this  was  the  winter  retreat  of 
many  of  the  Dalls  Indians,  who  pass  the  summer  at  the 
fishery,  and  the  resort  at  this  season  of  various  bands 
from  the  Wallah-wallah,  the  Kinse,  and  the  Nez  Perce 
tribes,  for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  horses  and  bu^Io 
robes  for  salmon ;  and  to  pass  the  cold  season,  which j0 
lasts  about  two  months,  where  wood  can  be  easily  ob* 
tained,  which  is  not  the  case  between  this  and  the  Blul| 
Mountains  above  Wallah-wallah,  one  hundred  and  fifiy 
miles  distant.  From  this  station  the  forest  extends  to 
the  ocean.  The  quantity  of  snow  and  rain  that  faQs 
here  is  small.  Horses  and  cattle  subsist  without  hay. 
December  is  the  snow  month,  and  the  season  of 
festivity.  The  nights  among  the  Dalls  Indians  were 
spent  in  singing  and  dancing,  and  their  carousals  could 
be  heard  a  mile.  One,  and  then  another  of  the  medi- 
cine meUf  would  open  his  house  for  a  dance,  where  it 
was  generally  kept  up  five  nights  in  succession  ;  men, 
women,  and  children,  engaged  in  the  chant,  while  a 
man,  or  a  woman,  or  both,  danced  on  a  large  elk-skin 
spread  down  on  one  side  of  the  fire,  that  jlazed  in  the 
centre  of  the  group,  keeping  time  to  the  loud-measured 
knocking  of  a  long  pole  suspended  horizontally,  and 
struck  endwise  against  a  wide  cedar  board — the  dan- 
cer jumping,  and  invoking  his  "  tam-an-a-was"  or 
familiar  spirit ;  until,  exhausted,  he  falls  as  one  dead, 
by  the  overpowering  influence  of  his  "  familiar." 

To  arouse  him  from  this  deep  slumber  requires  the 
skill  of  a  medicine  man,  or  " mesmeriserj^  who  going 
around  him  peeps,  and  mutters,  and  hoots,  at  his  toes, 
fingers,  and  ears,  and  wakes  his  tam-an-a-was  ;  when 
he  shudders,  groans,  opens  his  eyes,  and  lives  again ! 
With  these  dancers  the  feat  of  fire-eating  is  also  con- 
nected. The  writer  going  one  night  to  witness  a  dance, 
was  told  that  a  medicine  man  present  could  eat  fire ; 
at  first,  he  seemed  not  a  little  ashamed,  and  denied  he 


:.m^ 


^■■Mm 


MiH 


1- 
It' 


ii^  "n.; 


164 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


could  do  it.  **  Let  me  see  you  eat  fire/'  said  the  'writer; 
"  you  dare  not  do  it !  You  cannot  do  it !"  This  was 
calling  his  courage  and  power  in  question,  before  many 
who  had  seen  him  devour  the  blazing  torch,  as  they 
believed,  again  and  again.  This  was  too  much ;  his 
reputation  was  in  danger,  and  his  friends  were  urgent, 
confident  that  the  doubter  would  be  convinced.  *'  Al-ta 
nan-ich ! — Now  see  the  doctor  eat  fire !"  Havinc  a 
bundle  of  small  sticks  of  wood  about  two  inches 
in  diameter,  and  several  inches  lon^,  he  lighted  one 
tnd,  and  when  it  blazed  well  thrust  it  into  his  mouth, 
instantly  closing  his  lips  and  extinguishing  the  fiame. 
At  this  a  smile  of  triumph  rested  on  every  face.  "  Give 
me  a  bundle  of  sticks,"  said  the  writer.  The  sticks 
being  given,  were  lighted  and  put  into  the  hand  of  an 
Indian  who  was  near.  "  Now  see  !  all  of  you.  He, 
only  by  keeping  the  wind  away  from  it,  makes  it  go 
out.  He  does  not  eat  it.  Putting  my  hands  around 
this  win  do  the  same :  there,  it  is  out,  you  see :  my 
hands  did  not  eat  it,  only  shut  the  air  out.  Fire  can- 
not live  without  wind."  All  were  mute.  Speaking  to 
the  doctor  he  said,  "  You  deceive  thepeople :"  "  Oh 
now'it-kah — certainly,"  he  replied.  Tne  peo{)le  ap- 
peared to  be  convinced ;  but  probably  were  thinking  the 
writer  was  a  very  great  medicine  matit  being  more  than 
a  match  for  a  fire-eater. 

Formerly  it  was  a  prevailing  custom  for  the  ^'medicine 
men"  at  the  dancing  festivals  to  lacerate  their  flesh  with 
sharp  stones  or  knives,  making  deep  cuts ;  and  while 
the  blood  was  gushing  out,  scoop  it  up  in  their  hands, 
and  drink  it,  to  appease  and  gratify  their  blood-thirsty 
tam-an-a-'was  that  raged  within.  Probably  it  w™-?  pre- 
tended by  these  deceivers  that  their  "  familial  d"  de- 
lighted in  blood,  in  order  to  inspire  the  poor  dupes  of 
their  black  art  with  an  abiding  dread  of  their  displeasure, 
who  could  command  the  service  of  such  malicious 
agents.  The  limbs  and  bodies  of  many  exhibit  scars 
which  originated  in  this  diabolical  practice. 

During  the  winter  a  circumstance  came  under  the 


have 
state  o\ 
where 
fromil 
hair,  el 


«- 


w 


m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


165 


writer's  notice,  which  may  be  related  here,  which  is  in 
keeping  with  the  known  character  of  the  Dalls  Indians 
since  the  whites  first  knew  them.  Several  Indians  from 
Wishham  called  one  day  at  the  mission,  and  being  left 
alone  in  the  room  where  they  used  to  sit  to  converse  or 
come  to  get  medicine,  one  of  them,  when  an  opportunity 
served,  went  into  an  adjoining  room  and  found  a  market 
under  his  blanket  for  two  shirts  and  a  vest,  on  which 
he  and  his  party  soon  left,  having  lost  their  inclination  ^ 
to  remain  there  any  longer.  The  next  sabbath  he  came 
to  meeting,  wearing  the  vest,  which  he  carefully  covered 
with  his  blanket,  so  that  it  was  not  seen  till  service 
closed,  when  he  forgot  to  keep  it  hid,  and  thus  the  thief 
revealed  himself,  and  showed  that  previous  suspicions 
were  well  founded.  The  vest  and  one  of  the  shirts 
only  were  recovered. 

Difficulties  often  arise  about  property  on  the  decease 
of  relatives.  A  case  of  this  kind  took  place  at  the 
Dalls  station  this  winter.  Tah-lac-eow-it,  the  Indian 
mentioned  before,  was  living  there,  and  at  work  for  the 
mission.  He  occupied  a  small  house,  with  his  family, 
consisting  of  his  wife  and  her  mother,  which  belonged 
to  the  mission.  After  a  time  his  wife,  who  had 
been  long  in  a  consumption,  died.     The  writer  was 

E resent  at  the  time,  and  was  engaged  in  prayer  when 
er  spirit  took  its  flight.  As  he  arose,  the  watchful 
mother  caught  with  her  e}  e  the  last  gasp,  and  was  in- 
stantly overwhelmed  with  loud  and  frantic  grief.  When 
the  burial  and  the  mourning  had  ended,  the  brother  of 
the  deceased  began  to  anno^  the  bereft  husband  about 
the  property,  and  made  his  visits  so  frequent,  and  urged 
his  unreasonable  claims  so  madly,  that  a  quarrel  ensued, 
and  a  battle  of  pulling  hair,  and  after  this  a  strife  to 
wrench  an  axe  from  each  other's  grasp,  that  one  might 
have  it  to  fight  the  other  to  some  purpose.  At  this 
state  of  the  affray,  the  writer  entered  the  little  house 
where  they  were,  seized  the  weapon,  and  wrested  it 
from  them ;  and  then  laying  hold  of  the  aggressor's  long 
hair,  showed  him  the  way  out  into  the  yard  in  a  hurry, 


i'\ 


I 


y''t 


iX  I  :i 


ti.     JiV 


,ij  !' 


2," 


**i. 


f 


166 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


M 


and  there  the  war  ended !  It  is  seldom  the  case  that 
their  engagements  can  be  depended  on.  One  was  paid 
for  ten  deer-skins ;  and  when  he  brought  them,  five 
were  poor  ones  :  and  besides  this  cheat,  he  wanted  to 
get  other  property  worth  at  least  half  the  skins.  Agree 
to  give  one  a  shirt  for  his  services,  and  when  he  has 
done  he  will  often  want  a  vest,  or  trousers,  or  half  a 
dozen  small  presents.  ,  .    ^  > 


J3  ■■< 


.  CHAPTER  XVI. 

^  Mr.  David  Leslie  has  charge  of  Oregon  Mission  during  the  absence  of 

Mr.  J.  Lee — His  hovme  burned— Glorious  revival  of  religion  at  the  Walamet 
Htstion — One  of  the  converts  drowned — Happy  deaths — DeathofMr.  Cvrus 
Shepard,  and  extract  from  a  letter  written  by  him — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins 
return  to  the  Dalls  station — Farming  operations — Statement  by  General 
Jackson — Description  of  Indian  character  and  customs. 

Leaving  the  Dalls  for  a  time,  the  writer  will  now 
proceed  to  notice  some  of  the  occurrences  at  the  Wa- 
lamet station.  In  the  absence  of  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  Mr. 
David  Leslie  was  in  charge  of  the  affairs  of  the  Oregon 
Mission.  In  the  month  of  December  he  was  called  to 
sustain  a  heavy  loss  in  the  burning  of  his  house.  Very 
little  was  saved — not  a  change  of  apparel  for  his  wife 
and  three  daughters.  Mrs.  Leslie's  health  was  also 
very  feeble.  The  loss  which  was  caused  by  this  disaster 
was  made  up  to  Mr.  Leslie  by  the  Board  of  Missions, 
4f  under  whose  patronage  he  was  sent  forth.  Since  the 
departure  of  Mr.  Jason  Lee  to  the  States,  Mr.  Leslie 
liad  administered  the  ordinance  of  baptism  to  five  adults 
and  nine  children.  In  the  mission  school  at  the  Wala- 
met occurred  one  death,  that  of  a  little  girl,  ten  years 
of  age,  a  Calapooya.  She  had  been  in  the  mission 
family  two  years,  and  gave  an  evidence  of  a  change  of 
heart.  The  writer  has  now  also  to  record  to  the  praise 
of  God  the  account  of  a  glorious  revival  at  the  Wala- 
met station,  the  first  in  Oregon.  This  work  of  God 
commenced  at  a  protracted  meeting  held  in  connection 


^ 


nine 
into 
alouc 
prayd 


that 
paid 

five 
ed  to 
Lgree 
e  has 
lalf  a 


n  years 
mission 
ange  of 
e  praise 
I  "Wala- 
of  God 
[inection 


TBN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


167 


with  a  watch-night,  and  began  on  Saturday  evening, 
Dec.  29th.  Mr.  Shepard  writing  to  nie,  Jan.  4th,  says, 
"  Our  protracted  nneetine  began  last  Saturday  evening 
with  a  prayer  meeting  r  (I  give  the  substance  of  his 
letter :) "  there  was  nothing  unusual.  Sabbath  morning 
a  love-feast  was  held.  The  children,  neighbours,  and 
Indians  present  partook  of  the  bread  and  water ;  then 
Mr.  Leslie  preached,  and  the  word  took  effect  in  some 
hearts.  James  O'Neal,  an  American,  who  went  to  the 
countrjr  with  Capt.  Wyeth,  in  1834,  felt  the  arrows  of 
conviction  piercing  his  inmost  soul.  Two  children  were 
baptized — Mr.  Beers's  son,  Joseph,  and  Mr.  Shepard's 
daughter,  Anna  Maria  Lee.  The  communion  was  a 
very  precious  season.  At  prayer  meeting  the  awakening 
Spirit  of  God  was  present;  and  Chas.  Roe,  J.  O'Neal, 
and  Deportes  M'Kay  rose  for  prayers.  Monday,  31st. 
Meeting  continued  through  the  day,  followed  by  a  watch- 
night.  Those  convicted  above  expressed  desires  and 
resolutions  to  *  flee  from  the  wrath  to  come  ! '  Meeting 
closed  at  half-past  twelve  o'clock.  New-year's  morning, 
J.  O'Neal,  being  alone  in  prayer  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  his  burden  of  guilt  was  removed,  and  he  found 
peace  with  God.  At  the  close  of  the  watch-night  the 
mission  children  appeared  unusually  careless.  On 
Tuesday  I  began  to  think  Satan  trembled.  Some  ol 
the  larger  boys,  particularly  Ozro  and  Samson,  were 
uncommonly  rude ;  and  only  Charles  and  Antoine  were 
willing  to  attend  prayers  in  the  evening.  The  meeting 
commenced  and  continued  with  power.  Campbell  and 
Edmunds  were  deeply  wrought  upon,  and  cried  aloud, 
almost  in  an  agony  of  despair.  The  scene  was  awful. 
Poor  C.  felt  as  if  he  was  just  faUing  into  hell,  and  with 
the  greatest  earnestness  besought  the  prayers  of  all 
present.  Prayer  went  up,  and  shouts  of  praise  followed, 
for  the  soul  of  the  prisoner  was  soon  released.  About 
nine  o'clock  several  of  the  boys  and  girls  came  rushing 
into  the  room,  fell  upon  their  knees,  and  began  crying 
aloud  for  mercy.  There  was  united,  audible,  agonizing 
prayer,  that  could  be  heard,  as  Abbott  says,*  a  great 

W 


iv 


m, 


f? 


!  /"• 


168 


•  TSN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


m 


way  off.*  J.  Edmunds  found  peace.  He  and  Camp- 
bell were  Ameri«ans.  So  did  Samson  Wilder.  Here 
are  the  names  of  several  who  belonged  to  the  school. 
This  boy  was  of  the  Sasty  Indians,  who  inhabit  south 
of  the  Walamet  Valley  ;  and  Elijah  Hedding,  son  of 
the  first  chief  of  the  Wallah-wallahs.  Also  Antoine 
Bingham,  of  the  Calapooya  nation ;  and  Ozro  Morrill, 
and  his  sister,  Harriet  Newell,  Chenooks,  brother  and 
sister  to  Wm.  Brooks,  who  was  taken  to  the  United 
States  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  where  he  also  embraced 
religion,  and  some  time  after  died  in  the  city  of  New- 
York.  Mary  Sergeant  also  found  pardon.  These  con- 
tinued happy  in  the  divine  favour."  Such  was  the  state 
of  the  work,  that  meetings  continued  to  be  held  for  some 
time,  and  the  influence  extended  to  many  hearts. 
Several  more  of  the  mission  children  were  justified,  and 
some  more  of  the  whites.  One  of  these  was  Mr. 
Smith,  mentioned  in  chapter  12th.  He  was  then  living 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Walamet,  near  Chehalim.  He 
had  long  felt  his  need  of  justifying  grace,  and  had  just 
heard  oi  the  work  at  the  mission.  At  this  time  Mr. 
Perkins,  who  had  witnessed  the  blessed  work  at  that 
place,  called  on  him,  being  on  his  way  to  Fort  Van- 
couver. Finding  him  "  not  far  from  the  kingdom,"  he 
urged  him  to  an  instant  surrender  of  his  whole  heart 
to  God,  nothing  doubting ;  and  while  they  engaged  in 
prayer,  the  blessing  of  God  filled  his  believing  heart ! 
The  joy  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Leslie  was  crowned  in  the 
conversion  of  their  three  little  daughters.  Several 
others  were  also  sharers  in  this  merciful  visitation.  Of 
the  fruits,  twenty-seven  were  received  into  society; 
but  several  more  it  was  believed  had  also  tasted  of  the 

food  word  of  life,  and  felt  the  saving  grace  of  God. 
[is  name  be  praised !  Henceforth  it  shall  be  said, 
"What  hath  God  wrought !"  since  he  thus  visited  his 
people,  and  the  Gentiles  in  these  ends  of  the  earth, 
with  his  salvation ! 

The  happy  state  introduced  at  the  mission  by  this 
merciful  visitation  continued  for  many  months ;  but, 


4 


by  this 
;  but, 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


169 


after  a  time,  several  turned  away,  and  there  came  a 
season  of  trial,  and  the  love  of  many  wtixed  cold.  But 
the  flame  of  love  that  had  been  kindled  continued  to 
burn  in  some  hearts,  and  was  revived  in  others,  and 
some  who  had  wandered  away  had  again  returned  at 
different  times,  and  been  reclaimed  from  their  back- 
slidings.  One  of  the  subjects  of  this  revival  was  a 
youth  named  George  Stotenburgh.  He  was  from  New- 
York  state,  and  taken  to  Oregon  by  Dr.  White,  in  whose 
family  he  lived  mostly  till  his  death,  which  took  place 
on  the  16th  of  August,  1 839.  He  was  crossing  the  river 
on  horseback  at  a  ford  about  a  mile  below  the  mission, 
when  the  current  sweeping  his  horse  into  the  deep 
water  below  the  ford,  he  was  suddenly  drowned.  His 
body  was  swept  down  several  miles,  where,  after  seve- 
ral weeks,  it  was  found  by  some  Indiana,  and,  beins 
brought  up  to  the  mission,  was  buried.  The  sabbath 
before  he  was  at  the  sabbath  school,  and  seemed  to 
take  an  unusually  deep  interest  in  the  exercises,  as 
the  writer  learned  from  Mr.  Shepard.  We  trust  there 
was  good  reason  for  hope  in  his  death.  He  was  a 
lad  in  understanding  in  advance  of  his  years,  and  had 
he  lived  would  Ukely  have  been  above  the  middle  grade 
of  men  in  good  or  in  evil.  But  the  Lord  hath  done  as 
it  pleased  him,  and  he  is  too  wise  to  err,  and  too  good 
to  do  evil. 

Another  death  was  that  of  Thomas  Pekah,  about 
ten  years  old.  He  died  August  22d.  His  father  was 
a  native  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  his  mother  was 
of  the  Chenook  tribe  of  Indians.  He  had  been  in  the 
mission  about  two  years,  and  most  of  the  time  was  a 
subject  of  painful  scrofulous  disease.  He  shared  in  the 
revival,  was  remarkably  patient  in  his  sickness,  and 
died  in  peace.  One  or  two  circumstances  of  his  short 
and  dying  life  I  will  mention.  Being  at  the  Walamet 
on  the  sabbath,  some  months  before  he  died,  the  writer 
took  him  out  to  walk  a  little  way  along  the  bank  of  the 
river,  when,  in  a  point  of  wood-land  near  us,  we  over- 
heard a  larger  boy  engaged  in  earnest  prayer.    We 

8 


^i'm 


r 


170 


TEN    YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


knew  his  voice,  and  sitting  down,  waited  in  silence  till 
we  should  know  the  result  of  his  importunate  wrestling 
at  a  throne  of  grace.  He  was  acknowledging  his 
backslidings,  and  crying  unto  God  for  pardon.  He 
begged,  and  agonized,  and,  need  I  say,  he  also  pre- 
vailed. His  sorrow  was  changed  to  joy ;  and,  rising 
up,  he  instantly  began  singing  a  hymn  of  praise  to  God. 
The  heart  of  my  little  listener  caught  the  "  flying  joy," 
when,  smiling,  he  cried  out,  "  There !  Antoine  is  hap- 
py !"  Yes,  he  knew  that  his  cry  had  been  heard,  and 
the  event  filled  his  own  heart  with  joy  and  gladness. 
In  the  latter  part  of  his  "  suffering  time  his  reason  was 
partially  lost ;  but  his  mind  would  dwell  on  religion, 
and  he  would  go  often  to  Mr.  Shepard  and  desire  to 
kneel  at  his  knees  and  pray.  About  two  of  the  larger 
boys  he  would  say,  "  They  are  cast  down,  and  are  not 
happy ;"  and  then  talk  a  great  deal  about  praying  for 
ihem.  But  of  himself  he  would  generally  say,  he  was 
very  happy.  Thank  God  !  he  has  gone  where  "  sick- 
ness, sorrow,  pain,  and  death,  are  felt  and  feared  no 
more  !" 

One  more  happy  death,  that  took  place  this  year, 
was  tha*  of  Rora,  an  old  domestic  servant,  a  native  of 
Otaheite.  He  had  lived  with  us  from  the  commence- 
ment of  our  mission.  He  was  converted  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  year,  and  exhibited  the  fruits  of  this  change 
to  the  end  of  his  life.  His  disease,  which  was  a  con- 
sumption, confined  him  to  his  bed  for  several  months. 
He  was  very  patient,  resigned,  and  happy — his  sky 
always  clear.  In  his  last  wishes,  expressea  in  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Shepard,  he  says  to  me,  "I  am  very  sick  and 
weak ;  I  cough  a  great  deal ;  but  it  is  good  for  me  to 
be  sick,  because  it  is  God's  will.  I  do  not  expect  to 
live  long ;  but  I  am  happy  here,  and  when  I  die,  I  ex- 
pect to  go  and  see  God  and  Jesus  Christ,  and  shall  be 
sick  no  more.  You  must  pray  much,  anJ  when  you 
die,  you  will  come  and  meet  me  in  heaven :"  and 
**  Good-by  i"  Mr.  Jason  Lee  was  now  absent  in  the 
United  States,  and  to  see  him  return  again  was  all, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


171 


ce  till 
jstling 
12  his 
He 
10  pie- 
rising 
10  God. 


^Moy 


n 


is  hap- 
ird,  and 
ladness. 
son  was 
religion, 
[esire  to 
le  larger 
i  are  not 
lying  for 
,  he  was 
:e  *'  sick- 
'eared  no 

his  year, 
native  of 
>mmence- 
he  begin- 
is  change 
as  a  con- 
months, 
-his  sky 
in  a  letter 
y  sick  and 
fcT  me  to 
expect  to 
die,  1  ex- 
nd  shall  be 
when  you 
,ven:"  and 
lent  in  the 
in  was  all 


he  said,  that  he  desired  to  live  for ;  but  many  months 
before  his  return,  the  happy  spirit  of  his  ardent  old 
friend  had  entered  into  rest.  Jesse  Lee  was  a  youth 
of  the  Clickatat  tribe  of  Indians,  whose  country  lies  to 
the  north  of  the  Dalls.  He  had  been  with  us  from  two 
to  three  years,  and  was  among  the  subjects  of  the  re- 
vival. He  endured  with  much  patience  the  protracted 
sickness  which  terminated  his  life.  May  we  not  ex- 
claim, in  view  of  these  things,  "  Verily,  God  hath 
chosen  the  poor  of  this  world,  rich  in  faith,  and  heirs 
of  the  kingdom."  Cod  hideth  from  the  "wise  and 
prudent,"  but  is  made  manifest  "  unto  babes."  But 
the  time  has  come  when  we  must  part  with  a  beloved 
brother  and  distinguished  fellow-labourer,  Mr.  Cyrus 
Shepard.  He  had  "  fought  the  good  fight,  finished  his 
course,  kept  the  faith."  Since  his  first  engagement  in 
the  mission,  he  had  employed  himself  in  labours  be- 
yond his  strength,  and  that,  too,  under  a  load  of  bodily 
infirmities  which  knew  no  permanent  relief,  but  in- 
creased more  and  more  till  they  ended  in  death.  Our 
brother  loved  society,  but  he  was  happier  in  doing  good. 
In  labours  he  was  abundant,  endeavouring  to  do  good  in 
every  way  in  his  power  to  all  around  him,  both  to  their 
sonls  and  bodies.  Often  did  he  visit  the  Indian  lodge 
with  food  for  the  hungry  and  medicine  for  the  sick. 
For  the  children  in  the  mission  under  his  care  he  felt 
a  deep  and  abiding  interest.  To  teac!.,  to  clothe,  to 
feed,  and  to  save  them,  soul  and  body,  was  his  utmost 
desire  ;  and  this,  with  the  blessed  hope  of  his  own 
salvation,  made  him  constantly  "  trample  ou  pleasure 
and  pain."  By  many  of  the  early  inhabitants  he  will 
long  be  held  in  grateful  remembrance  ;  but  those  only 
who  knew  him  frorn  the  first  can  place  a  just  estimate 
upon  his  character.  His  disease  was  the  scrofula,  and 
in  the  spring  of  1838  it  attacked  his  right  knee.  By 
recourse  to  medical  treatment,  however,  the  danger 
was  averted,  and  for  eighteen  months  some  hopes  were 
indulged  that  he  would  recover.  But  on  the  commence- 
ment of  the  rainy  season,  ii  the  fall  of  1839,  the  dis- 


H: 


iiipi'J 


172 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


^*- 


case  forced  him  to  take  his  bed,  where,  after  suffering 
greatly  for  about  twenty  days,  it  became  necessary,  as 
the  only  hope  of  saving  his  life,  to  resort  to  the  painful 
process  of  amputation.  This  was  done  December  1 1  th, 
by  Dr.  White,  assisted  by  Dr.  Baile^r  and  Mr.  Wilson. 
He  endured  all  with  remarkable  patience  and  resigna- 
tion. "  Through  all  his  sufferings,"  said  his  sympa- 
thizing and  excellent  wife,  in  a  letter  of  the  22d  of  De- 
cember, "I  have  not  heard  a  murmur  to  escape  his 
lips ;  but  in  his  most  trying  hours,  he  could  rejoice  and 
sing  praises  to  God  !"  An  opportunity  to  forward  the 
letter  of  which  this  is  an  extract  not  occurring  till  the 
27th,  he  wrote  me  a  few  lines  in  the  margin,  the  last 
his  hand  ever  penned,  which  breathe  the  same  spirit 
with  that  quoted  above.  Including  all  at  the  Dalls  sta- 
tion, he  says,  December  27th :  "  Dear  Brethren  and 
Sisters, — Feeling  a  desire  to  say  a  few  words  to  you 
this  morning,  Susan  has  kindly  unsealed  her  letter  to 
favour  my  purpose.  I  am  very  feeble  in  body,  and 
obliged  to  lie  on  ray  back  from  morning  till  night ;  ex- 
cepting of  late  I  have  been  permitted  to  turn  on  my 
side,  or  to  He  raised  on  my  bed  for  a  short  season,  to 
relieve  the  pain  caused  by  lying  in  one  position  so  long. 
But  the  doctor  begins  to  think  that  even  this,  on  the 
whole,  is  injurious,  and  discourages  it.  I  have  lain 
from  midnight  till  ten  o'clock,  A.  M.,  in  the  same  posi- 
tion, and  bear  it  very  well.  Dr.  White  has  been  very 
attentive  indeed  since  my  sickness,  and  has  done  all 
fully  to  satisfaction.  All  the  brethren  and  sisters  seem 
to  take  delight  in  exerting  themselves  to  manifest  their 
sympathy  and  kindness  in  every  manner  possible.  I 
think  no  person  under  heaven  ever  was  more  kindly 
and  faithfully  attended  to  than  I  have  been  during  my 
sickness.  Expressions  of  deep  sympathy  are  pouring 
in  from  every  quarter.  French,  English,  Ame  icans, 
nor  must  I  exclude  the  poor  Indians,  have  given  une- 
quivocal proof  of  their  sympathizing  love.  I  cannot 
say  I  thinK  I  shall  get  up  from  this  bed  whereon  I  have 
gone  down.    God  has  dealt  with  me  in  a  manner  which 


it  isi 
a  ren 
every 
be  po 
at  ev< 
scree( 
cries 
say  to 
that  n 
riurmi 
my  sic 
and  CO 
part  o 
nealed 
that  he 
an  absc 
so  rapii 
ing  in 
burlhei] 
of  b]is« 
exhorte 
warning 
grave, 
his  hol3 
Mr.'l 
16,  17S 
in  Mai 
Oregon 
married 
Oregon 
He  left 
them  a 
band  an 
Thus 
ranks  o 
tempore 
his  wor 
still  pro 
funeral 


^3^^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


173 


enng 
y,  as 
unful 

nth, 

ilson. 
jigna- 
rmpa- 
>fDe. 
)e  his 
;e  and 
rd  the 
ill  the 
tie  last 
5  spirit 
Us  sta- 
jn  and 
to  you 
liter  to 
ly,  and 
It;  ex- 
on  my 
ison,  to 
30  long. 
,  on  the 
,ve  lain 
le  posi- 
en  very 
lone  all 
rs  seem 
3st  their 
ible.    I 
3  kindly 
ring  my 
pouring 
le  icans, 
en  une- 
cannot 
n  I  have 
er  which 


it  is  impossible  to  describe  to  you.  Such  support,  such 
a  removal  of  every  care,  the  mind  constantly  far  from 
every  anxious  thought,  I  could  never  have  conceived  to 
be  possible.  Under  the  most  excruciating  pain,  when 
at  every  breath  it  seemed  impossible  to  refrain  from 
screeching  as  loud  as  my  strength  would  bear,  these 
cries  were  mingled  with  shouts  of  praise !  I  would 
say  to  you,  such  has  been  the  abundance  of  peace  given, 
that  not  a  rising  of  impatience  or  fretfulness,  nor  a 
Eiurmur  or  a  complaint  has  ever  been  felt  by  me  during 
my  sickness.  Farewell !  The  God  of  all  peace,  grace, 
and  consolation  be  with  you  continually,"  Signed,  "  A 
part  of  Cyrus."  The  stump  of  the  amputated  limb 
healed  gradually,  and  strong  hopes  were  entertained 
that  he  would  recover ;  but  they  proved  delusive,  for 
an  abscest;  formed  in  his  hip  which  baffled  medicine,  and 
so  rapidly  wasted  the  powers  of  hfe,  that  on  the  usher- 
ing in  of  the  new  year,  1840,  his  happy  spirit,  "dis- 
burthened  of  its  load,"  mounted  upward  to  the  abode 
of  bliss  !  Many  who  called  to  see  him  he  warned  and 
exhorted  to  repentance.  Happy  they  if  they  lay  these 
warnings  to  heart.  His  voice  is  now  hushed  in  the 
grave.  Though  dead  he  yet  speaks  to  all  who  knew 
his  holy  life  and  godly  conversation. 

Mr.  Shepard  was  born  in  Philipstown,  Mass.,  August 
16,  1799.     He  obtained  the  blessing  of  justifying  grace 
Marlboro*,   Mass.,  January  1st,   1826 — joined  the 


in 


Oregon  Mission  at  its  commencement  in  1834 — was 
married  to  Miss  Susan  Downing,  of  Lynn,  Mass.,  in 
Oregon,  July  16,  1837,  and  died  January  1st,  1840. 
He  left  a  widow  and  two  little  daughters  ;  but  he  left 
them  a  legacy,  the  divine  favour,  God,  ttie  widow's  hus- 
band and  the  orphan's  father. 

Thus  did  the  Lord  remove  his  servant  from  the 
ranks  of  bis  fellow-labourers ;  but  their  loss  was  only 
temporary,  his  gain  eternal.  Thus  does  the  J^ord  bury 
his  workmen,  "  and  take  them  home  to  rest,"  while  he 
sliU  provides  for  and  carries  on  his  work.  Jan.  2d  the 
funeral  riles  were  performed,  a  sermon  being  preached 


.Mii 


:-'i  - 


V'-      ;f 


!   ». 


m\ 


inl 


174 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


\- 


by  Mr.  Leslie.  Most  of  the  Americans  in  the  settle- 
ment attended  to  pay  the  last  tribute  of  respect  in  death 
to  him  who  in  life  was  to  many  of  them  a  friend  and 
brother.  One  wish  filled  every  heart,  "  Let  me  die  the 
death  of  the  righteous,  and  let  my  last  end  be  like  his." 
He  rests  now  from  his  labours.    Yes,  we  may  add : 

"  His  languishing  head  is  at  rest, 

Its  thinking  and  aching  are  o'er,  ^ 

His  quiat,  immovable  breast  -      * ; 

Is  heaved  by  affliction  no  more." 

In  the  sickness  and  death  of  Mr.  Shepard  the  mission 
school  was  deprivedof  his  valuable  services  as  a  teacher; 
but  a  watchful  Providence  supplied  another  guardian, 
in  the  person  of  Mr.  Wm.  Geiger,  a  Presbyterian,  who 
passed  the  winter  there,  on  his  way  to  Caliiornia.  The 
school  prospered  while  under  his  management,  till  the 
return  of  Mr.  Jason  Lee,  May,  1840. 

Leaving  other  accounts  of  the  Walamet  for  the 
present,  we  will  now  return  to  the  Dalls,  and  after 
noticing  Mr.  Perkins  in  his  return  to  that  station,  lay 
before  the  reader  the  doings  there,  and  some  account 
of  the  Indians,  their  history,  location,  character,  super- 
stition, medical  practice,  and  means  of  subsistence. 

Early  in  Dec'Tfiher  of  the  inen  present  year,  1838, 
Mr.  Perkins  left  the  Walamet  station  to  return  with  his 
family  to  the  Dalls,  Mrs.  Perkins  having  the  care  of 
her  babe,  only  a  few  weeks  old.  They  descended  the 
Walamet,  and.  reached  Fort  Vancouver  in  safety.  Hence 
they  proceeded  up  the  Columbia  about  twenty  miles. 
Here  a  strong  head  wind  met  them,  and  obliged  them 
to  encamp.  The  cold  was  so  great  as  to  freeze  the 
river  and  interrupt  navigation — the  wind  also  blew  a 
perfect  gale  for  many  days ;  at  length,  after  much  ex- 
posure, which  threatened  serious  consequences  to  Mrs. 
Perkins,  who  was  in  delicate  health,  they  turned  back 
to  Vancouver,  where  they  found  welcome  and  com- 
fort in  the  kind  hospitalities  of  Mr.  James  Douglas, 
the  chief  factor,  and  the  other  gentlemen  and  ladies  of 
the  establishment.    Mrs.  Perkins  being  thus  provided 


thei 

some 

pota 


4t 
TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


175 


for,  soon  regained  her  vigour,  so  as  to  permit  Mr.  Per- 
kins to  attend  the  protracted  meeting  described  in  the 
preceding  pages  at  the  Walamet.  After  his  return,  he 
was  detained  at  Vancouver,  the  season  and  the  ice  in 
the  river  not  adir'tting  the  trip  to  be  made  to  the  Balls 
till  February.  While  here,  he  spent  his  time  in 
preaching  and  in  other  efforts  for  the  spiritual  good  of 
the  gentlemen  of  the  company,  and  their  hired  servant?. 
Meantime  it  will  be  recollected  that  the  writer  was  at 
the  Dalls  station.  December  25lh  he  had  the  pleasure 
of  the  company  of  Mr.  Pambem,  the  gentleman  in 
charge  of  Fort  Wallah-wallah.  He  had  been  to  Van- 
couver, and  was  ascending  the  river  with  several  boats 
freighted  v;ith  merchandise,  when  the  head  wind  de- 
scribed above  compelled  them  to  land.  Here  they 
waited  twelve  days,  and  then  the  goods  and  boats  re- 
turned to  Vancouver,  one  excepted — this  was  taken  up 
by  the  wind  and  borne  a  considerable  distance,  and  bro- 
ken to  pieces  in  its  fall.  He  then  pursued  his  way  by 
land,  with  a  few  men,  along  the  snowy,  icy  shores  oi 
the  rock-bound  river,  about  sixty  miles  in  five  days,  to 
this  station.  The  news  of  the  good  work  at  the  Wala- 
met cheered  the  lone  winter  about  this  lime.  And  the 
arrival  of  Mr.  P.  and  family,  to  which  a  first-born,  a  son, 
liad  been  added  in  their  absence,  was  another  source 
of  renewed  enjoyment,  welcome  as  a  stream  in  the 
desert  to  thirsty  travellers.  They  returned  Feb.  13th. 
We  now  took  hold  of  our  farming  business,  making 
fences,  ploui^l.ing,  sowing,  and  planting  about  twenty 
acres.  One  field  of  several  acres  we  held  in  shares 
with  some  of  the  Indians,  who  helped  to  fence  and 
plough  it.  The  ground  being  new,  the  returns  were 
small ;  and  even  these  were  partly  stolen.  These  dis- 
couragements, with  the  abundance  of  salmon,  and  roots 
and  berries,  easily  obtained,  prevented  them  from  ever 
again,  while  the  writer  dwelt  among  them,  degrading 
themselves  by  an  attempt  to  till  the  soil  !  Besides 
some  grain,  some  garden  vegetables,  and  a  fine  crop  of 
potatoes  were   produced  this   year ;   the  ground  was 


/ 


J,'  \.;* 


■^i^C:uir;|i 


t!ji*s 


J     .i 


ij-    f 


.Mm 


w  '  » 


176 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


u 


I' 

''  'ill* 
II  ^11 


irrigated  from  the  spring.  The  Indians,  some  of  them, 
showed  a  disposition  to  avail  themselves  of  the  fruits 
of  our  industry,  by  harvesting  some  of  the  potatoes 
without  our  consent.  Of  this  propensity  we  had  fre- 
quent proofs,  in  one  form  or  another.  So  that  we  were 
i  often  reminded  of  a  statement  which  the  writer  heard 

1  General  Andrew  Jackson  make,  when  Indian  honesty 

was  mentioned  as  existing  in  a  particular  tribe,  "  You 
,  need  not  tell  ine,"  said  he  ;  "  Indians  will  steal !"    Be- 

sides atteuding  to  the  farm,  another  house  was  also 
begun,  and  so  far  finished  as  to  admit  the  holding  of 
rr  eetlngs  in  it,  in  the  winter,  which  was  some  improve- 
ment on  the  preceding  year;  when  we  had  to  meet 
without  and  worship  in  the  wind,  while  the  natives  sat 
down  in  the  snow. 

Before  the  revival  among  the  Indians  at  the  Dalls, 
and  in  its  vicinity,  which  took  place  in  the  fall  and  win- 
ter of  1839  and  1840,  and  which,  in  order  of  time,  has 
its  place  here,  is  treated  of,  let  me  introduce  the  reader 
to  a  more  particular  acquaintance  with  the  Indians  in 
these  parts,  and  with  their  character.  Ten  miles  above 
the  station  at  the  Shoots  are  two  villages,  Tekin  and 
Wiam.  These  are  Wallah-wallahs.  At  the  Long 
Narrows  on  the  north  side  is  Wishham,  here  we  first 
meet  with  the  Chenooks.  Next  three  miles  below  is  Ka- 
clas'ko,  near  which  the  mission  houses  stand,  (imj.ro- 
/  perly  called  Was-co-para.)    Ten  miles,  you  come  to 

Clat-a-cut  on  the  north  side.  Fifteen  miles  further 
down  is  Kle-miak-sac  and  Kow-il-a-mow-an.  Three 
miles  more,  Ne-nooth-tect,  then  Scai-talpe,  and  Wah- 
hc  at  the  head  of  the  Cascades.  Besides,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river,  a  short  distance  inland,  were  the 
Chick-atat  Indians,  Jind  to  the  south  twenty-five  miles 
the  village  of  Tilhan-ne,  inhabited  by  the  Wallah- 
wallahs.  The  villages  named  along  the  river  from 
the  Dalls  down  to  the  Cascades  are  the  winter  resi- 
dence of  many  who  pass  their  summer  at  one  or  the 
other  of  these  fisheries.  All  these  number  less  than 
two  thousand  of  all  ages.    From  the  Dalls  Indians 


■# 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


177 


the  Kinse  used  formerly  to  take  an  annual  tribute  of 
salmon,  alleging  that  the  fishery  belonged  to  them. 
Whether  or  not  their  claims  were  well  founded,  their 
superior  power  in  war  kept  their  tributaries  in  abject  sub- 
mission. These  exactions  were  formerly  more  rigorous 
than  now ;  atpresent  they  are  concealed  under  the  show 
of  traffic.  They  buy  at  their  own  price,  compelling 
them  to  sell  even  their  own  stock  of  provisions,  so  as 
to  have  little  left  to  subsist  on  themselves.  Another 
cause,  nearly  as  oppressive,  which  occurs  almost  every 
year,  and  makes  a  draft  on  their  salmon  stores,  is  the 
aggression  of  some  of  their  poorer  neighbours  of  the 
nearer  inland  tribes.  These  come  to  the  fisheries  after 
the  end  of  the  salmon  season,  while  the  fishermen  are 
gone  into  the  mountains  to  gather  theiryearly  stock  of 
berries,  and  rob  their  salmon  caches.  These  are  cellars 
which  they  dig  in  the  sand,  where  they  deposite  with 
much  care  and  secrecy  the  fruits  of  their  summer's  toil, 
and  their  winter's  hope.  Thus  pillaged,  every  returning 
spring  finds  many  of  them  in  abject  want.  Formerly 
they  had  wars  with  the  Clam-aths  and  the  Zwan-hi- 
ooks,  who  inhabit  the  country  far  to  the  south  and  south- 
east. Seme  of  the  former  tribe  they  hold  in  slavery. 
Many  years  ago  the  rich  hunting  ground  of  the  Wala- 
met  Valley  attracted  the  Kinse  thither  in  chase  of  the 
deer.  On  their  return  they  were  waylaid  in  the  wil- 
derness, when  within  about  twenty-five  miles  of  the 
Dalls,  by  a  party  of  the  Chenook  race  residing  between 
this  and  the  Cascades,  and  nearly,  if  not  entirely,  cut  off. 
This  bloody  conduct  soon  brought  a  war-party  of  the 
Kinse  upon  the  aggressors,  when  a  battle  ensued,  and 
the  revengers  of  their  brothers'  blood  were  conquerors. 
A  disposition  to  take  every  advantage  of  white  men  in 
their  power,  by  force  or  fraud,  has  been  more  manifest  in 
the  Indians  here  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  territory, 
from  the  first  introduction  of  the  traders  among  them. 
Such  was  their  determination  to  plunder,  that  for  many 
years  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were  compelled  to  pass 
them  with  a  large  force,  and  restrain  them  by  the  dread 

8* 


■rM 


m 


=1  ■' 


•* 


ii 


11    ■   i     J 


178 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


of  their  arms.  So  late  as  the  year  1 826,  as  Mr.  M'Leod, 
a  gentleman  of  the  company,  and  Mr.  Douglas,  the 
natm'alist,  were  passing  there,  they  manifested  hostile 
intentions.  Mr.  M'Leod,  being  apprized  of  his  danger, 
ordered  his  men  to  put  their  boats  into  the  water,  on 
which  the  Indians  interfered,  and  as  Mr,  M'Leod  was 
pushing  one  of  them  away  from  the  boat,  another  drew 
a  bow  to  shoot  him.  Mr.  Douglas  seeing  this,  uncovered 
his  piece,  and  aimed  it  at  the  Indian.  At  this  moment 
a  Kmse  chief  and  three  of  his  young  men  arrived,  and 
set  the  matter  at  rest.  When  one  of  these  Indians  is 
detected  in  stealing,  or  with  stolen  property,  and  it  is 
restored,  or  taken  from  him,  it  is  often  the  case  among 
themselves  that  the  thief  receives  some  article  of  less 
value,  for  which  he  has  the  boldness  to  stipulate  with 
the  owner  of  the  stolen  property.  For  instance  :  one 
wants  a  shirt, — he  goes  and  steals  a  horse ;  and  when 
he  is  found  tells  the  owner,  "  Give  me  a  shirt,  and  you 
shall  have  the  horse ;"  and  he,  preferring  to  do  this  to 
having  any  further  trouble,  gives  the  thief  a  shirt,  and 
feels  gratified  with  his  good  fortune.  One  of  these 
gentry  who  dread  to  get  'an  honest  living,  having  stolen 
a  horse  from  the  mission  here  in  1838,  which  he  sold, 
and  which  was  afterward  recovered,  when  in  the  course 
of  justice  he  had  to  give  up  the  musket  for  which  he 
had  sold  the  horse,  was  much  afflicted  that  the  whole 
affair  was  not  likely  to  benefit  him  at  all !  But  being 
determined  not  to  steal  for  nothing,  he  demanded  a 
shirt  of  the  writer,  "  to  make  his  heart  good."  The 
idea  of  paying  a  man  for  stealing !  Never !  Not 
succeeding,  the  next  day  he  renewed  his  demand, 
bringing  with  him  some  of  his  relations,  having  knives 
and  a  war-stone  to  intimidate  me  to  a  compliance,  but 
he  met  with  no  success  ;  and  the  determined  reply  he 
received,  though  it  did  not  reform  his  heart,  yet  it  im- 
proved his  conduct  toward  the  mission  ever  after. 
The  war-stone  mentioned  above  is  a  smooth  stone, 
nearly  round,  and  about  two  inches  in  diameter,  strongly 
enclosed  in  a|)iece  of  elk-skin,  which  covers  a  handle 


ment 
of  soi 
death 
from  tl 
after 


t-' 


hole 
eing 
a 
The 
Not 
land, 
[lives 
but 
y  he 
t  im- 
after. 
tone, 

ngly 

andle 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


179 


about  fifteen  inches  long,  having  the  stone  at  one  end. 
A  blow  with  this  would  fracture  a  man's  skull. 

Let  the  reader  now  be  introduced  to  the  most  influ- 
ential persons  among  this  people.  These  are  the  "  me- 
dicine men,"  or  conjurors,  who  can,  it  is  believed,  set 
the  evil  spirit  of  disease  at  defiance,  cast  it  out  where  it 
has  dared  to  enter,  and  make  it  seize  with  an  unyielding, 
deadly  grasp  the  objects  of  their  displeasure.  The 
people  believe  that  they  hold  intercourse  with  spirits, 
that  they  can  see  the  disease,  which  is  some  extraneous 
thing,  as  a  small  shell,  or  a  pipe,  or  a  piece  of  tobacco, 
or  some  other  material  substance,  which  they  (the  doc- 
tors) describe.  It  is  firmly  believed  that  they  can  send 
a  bad  "  tam-an-a-was  "  into  a  person,  and  make  him 
die,  unless  it  be  cast  out  by  some  other  "  medicine 
man."  If  a  threat  is  made,  or  it  is  intimated,  by  one 
of  them,  that  a  certain  person  will  not  live  long,  no 
sooner  does  he  hear  of  it  than  he  is  alarmed,  and  feels 
himself  a  dead  man.  For  their  services  they  are  paid 
in  advance,  and  often  their  demands  are  nigh,  and 
their  practice  is  lucrative.  When  their  patients  die, 
they  restore  the  fees.  This  is  necessary  for  their  own 
security,  for  otherwise  they  might  be  charged  with 
having  caused  his  death,  which  would  render  them  the 
mark  of  revenge.  If  one  of  the  order  is  his  rival  or 
enemy,  and  he  wishes  this  obstacle  to  his  own  advance- 
ment removed,  the  affirmation  that  he  caused  the  death 
of  some  person  will  probably  be  followed  with  his 
death  by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased.  Several  deaths 
from  this  cause  took  place  at  the  Dalls  the  first  year 
after  the  station  was  occupied,  and  this  is  a  common 
occurrence  among  many  of  the  surrounding  tribes. 
Sometimes  it  happens  that  the  doctor  takes  all  his  pa- 
tient has,  not  leaving  a  dying  man  his  last,  perhaps  his 
only,  garment  or  covering.  A  case  of  this  kind  oc- 
curred at  the  Dalls.  A  young  man  was  in  a  consump- 
tion, and  was  in  the  writer's  care, — he  was  frightened 
away  to  the  doctor  by  some  one  who  saw  he  had  a 
shirt  and   trousers,   and  shoes,    and  a  light  blanket, 


11 


180 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


/-  I 


which  he  had  received  in  part  from  me ;  and  it  was 
not  long  before  he  had  stripped  him  of  the  whole,  and 
then  left  him  to  die,  or  hastened  his  death.  The  poor 
man  had  no  friends,  and  the  doctor  was  safe. 

As  we  shall  have  occasion  to  notice  instances  of  these 
practices  in  the  progress  of  our  work,  the  writer  will  orViy 
mention  briefly  the  manner  in  which  it  is  sometimes 
performed,  which  will  give  the  reader  some  idea  of  its 
degrading  nature.  Several  poles  are  tied  together  at 
the  ends,  and  from  six  to  ten  men  are  arranged  alone 
them  in  a  sitting  posture,  each  having  a  stick  with 
which  he  beats  on  the  poles  ;  and  thus  a  loud  jarring 
noise  is  produced,  whicn  may  be  heard  a  long  distance. 
This  is  accompanied  with  a  kind  of  singing,  in  which 
the  "  medicine  man"  leads,  while  he  kneels  near  his 
patient  on  the  other  side  of  the  polls,  making  horrid 
contortions  and  grimaces,  as  if  some  demoniac  was 
raging  within.  The  chant  is  not  long,  and  then,  after 
a  few  minutes,  is  renewed  again,  and  thus  repeated 
several  times.  The  way  being  now  prepared,  he  ap- 
proaches his  patient,  and,  after  a  painful  and  persevering 
effort,  with  his  mouth  applied  as  a  cupping-glass,  he 
transfers  the  *'  sko-kom,"  or  "  tam-an-a-was,"  or  dis- 
ease, wholly  or  in  part  from  the  patient  to  himself !  In 
this  stage  of  the  treatment  two  men  approach  him,  and 
taking  hold  of  ropes  about  his  waist  and  beneath  his 
arms,  free  him  from  the  patient,  when  he  appears  as 
one  dead.  Very  soon  he  begins  to  show  signs  of  life — 
a  limb  moves,  he  mutters,  turns,  gets  on  his  hands  and 
knees,  rises  slowly  up,  can  hardly  stand,  grows  strong- 
er, summons  a  mighty  effort ! — music  lifts,  labours ! 
makes  an  unearthly  scream,  and  violently  throwing  out 
his  arms  at  full  length,  ejects  the  evil  principle,  and  he 
is  now  ready  for  a  new  onset ! 

Leaving  their  medical  faculty,  we  will  now  look  into 
their  habitations.  They  are  covered  with  bark,  and 
the  walls  are  made  of  boards  split  out  of  the  cedar. 
The  boards  are  set  on  end,  and  support  the  plates, 
rafters,  and  ribs.     The  floor  is  about  three  feet  below 


of  fo 

stone 

the 

put 

and 

articl 

laid 

of  a 

heat, 

tive 

pits 

in  mil 

they 

pose( 


'%': 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


181 


the  ground,  and  the  fire-place  in  the  middle,  sometimes 
a  little  lower,  and  the  smoke  escapes  through  an  open- 
ing at  the  top.  Several  families  often  unite  together 
and  occupy  one  house.  Twenty  or  thirty  are  some- 
times seen  living  thus  together.  What  a  group !  Stop, 
reader,  and  dwell  a  moment  on  their  condition,  and  con- 
trast it  with  your  own ;  and  thank  your  Maker  that  he 
has  ffiven  you  a  lot  more  suitable  to  your  improvement 
and  happiness. 

As  to  their  means  of  subsistence,  these  consist  of 
salmon,  roots,  berries,  and  game.  Besides  the  dried 
salmon,  which  we  have  already  mentioned,  they  also 
store  large  quantities  in  sacks.  This  is  first  dried  in 
the  sun,  then  pounded  fine  in  stone  morta^^  ;  and  then 
the  sacks,  being  first  lined  with  the  skins  ^  the  salmon, 
are  filled  with  it,  so  compact  that  twenty  salmon  only 
require  one  about  one  foot  in  diameter  and  two  feet 
long.  Their  roots,  which  are  a  substitute  for  bread, 
they  dig  in  the  spring.  This  is  done  by  the  women. 
These  are  pounded  into  a  pulp,  and  then  formed  into 
thin  cakes  of  an  oblong  form,  measuring  about  six  by 
ten  inches,  and  being  well  dried  in  the  sun,  are  stored 
for  future  use,  and  will  keep  a  long  time.  In  autumn 
they  lay  in  large  stores  of  berries  dried.  Acorns,  also, 
which  are  abundant  some  years,  are  used  as  an  article 
of  food.  These  are  gathered  and  baked  with  heated 
stones — a  method  of  preparing  food  common  both  to 
the  Indians  and  Pacific  Islanders.  Heated  stones  are 
put  into  an  excavation  in  the  ground  three  feet  across, 
and  covered  with  leaves  or  grass  so  as  to  prevent  the 
articles  to  be  cooked  from  burning.  Then  these  are 
laid  on,  and  carefully  covered  in  the  same  manner.  Last 
of  all,  earth  is  spread  over  the  whole  to  keep  in  the 
heat,  and  the  process  of  baking  is  done  up  in  real  na- 
tive style.  After  the  acorns  are  thus  prepared,  deep 
pits  are  dug  near  the  water,  in  which  tney  are  buried 
in  mud,  where  they  remain  through  the  winter ;  when 
they  are  taken  up  and  eaten,  much  improved,  it  is  sup- 
posed, by  the  soaking  process. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


US  128     |2.5 

150     "^~        MHB 

liii    ■2.2 


£!  Hi 


1.25  i  1.4 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WIST  MAIN  STRUT 

WnSTIR.N.Y.  MStO 

(716)t73-4S03 


182 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Account  of  the  "work  of  God"  at  the  Dalls  in  1839,  '40— Specimen  of 
an  Indian  prayer — Dancing-hal\  used  as  a  meeting-bouse — Preaching  of  the 
missionaries,  and  formation  of  classes — Baptism  of  converts — Camp-meet* 
ing — Communion  administered  to  several  hundred  Indians — ^Affairs  at  the 
Walamet  station — Trip  to  Walaiaet  and  Chenook — ^Arrival  of  the  Lau> 
saime  with  a  reinforcement  to  the  mission,  accompanied  by  Mr.  J.  Lee. 

In  the  preceding  chapter  mention  was  made  of  the 
"  vfork  of  God,"  as  it  has  been  rightfully  designated, 
at  the  Dalls  in  1839  and  '40;  some  account  of  which 
the  writer  will  now  proceed  to  give. 

While  Mr.  Shepard,  as  has  been  related,  was  con- 
fined to  his  dying  bed,  and  not  long  before  his  decease, 
his  heart  was  cheered  by  hearing  that  the  Lord  was 
visiting  the  Dalls  station  in  the  awakening  and  conver- 
sion of  souls.  That  this  was  the  work  of  God  at  its 
beginning  and  in  its  progress,  the  writer  fully  believes. 
What  if  some,  or  even  most  of  the  anticipated  results 
failed  ?  Does  this  prove  that  it  was  not  God's  doing? 
By  no  means ;  for  instances  are  frequent  in  which  he 
revives  his  work  in  portions  of  his  vineyard,  and  most 
of  the  anticipated  fruits  never  appear.  See  this  illus- 
trated by  an  unerring  Teacher  in  the  parable  of  the 
sower.  Matt.  xiii.  The  writer,  when  this  good  work 
commenced,  was  absent,  having  gone  some  time  pre- 
viously to  the  Walamet,  and  did  not  return  till  past 
the  16th  of  November.  When  he  arrived,  Mr.  Per- 
kins met  him  at  the  shore,  and  told  him  that  a  gracious 
work  was  begun  among  the  natives.  Of  this  he  had 
strong  doubts,  and  could  not  assent  till  the  proof  ap- 
peared ;  for  before  he  went  to  the  Walamet,  they  had 
become  so  lawless  and  daring  that  our  safety  was  en- 
dangered, and  he  had  just  brought  several  muskets  and 
a  supply  of  powder  and  balls  from  Vancouver  for  de- 
fence, intending  to  garrison  the  dwelling-house  and  re- 
sist any  hostility  they  might  attempt.  But  nou  these 
munitions  of  war  were  not  needed,  for  it  appeared  tiuly 


TEN  YEAR9  IN  OREGON. 


183    ■, 


that  the  God  of  peace  had  come  to  the  help  of  his  ser- 
yants,  and  the  salvation  of  his  people.  Mr.  Perkins 
was  found  labouring  zealously  night  and  day,  going 
from  lodge  to  lodge,  praying  and  exhorting,  hiding 
prayer  meetings  and  preaching.  His  own  soul  had 
been  recently  blest  with  a  signal  salvation,  and  walking 
in  the  "  comfort  of  the  Holy  Ghost,"  he  had  the  cause 
of  God  greatly  at  heart.  Large  numbers  of  the  na- 
tives attended  meetings  as  earnest  hearers,  and  several 
had  begun  to  pray.  One  had  already  been  converted. 
After  several  weeks  of  deep  repentance,  in  which  he 
met  with  much  opposition,  and  devoted  many  hours  to 
prayer,  his  soul  was  set  at  liberty  in  a  prayer  meeting ; 
and  although  his  joy  was  not  great,  yet  the  change  was 
soon  manifest.  He  began  at  once  to  "  declare  what 
God  had  done  for  his  soul,"  exhorted  all  he  met  to  come 
to  Jesus,  and  prayed  with  deep  and  fervent  longings 
for  the  souls  of  his  relations  and  others.  This  event 
awakened  a  deeper  and  wider  interest  among  the  peo- 

Sle  ;  in  so  much  that  the  number  of  inquirers  obliged 
Ir.  Perkins  to  give  himself  entirely  up  to  the  work, 
as  mentioned  above.  As  to  Mr.  Perkins  and  the  writer, 
their  hearts  were  knit  together  in  love,  and  long  will 
those  seasons  of  "  refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the 
Lord,"  which  we  enjoyed  in  those  happy  days,  be  re- 
membered, when  the  language  of  our  hearts  was,  "  Jesus 
is  mine  and  I  am  his."  Our  object  and  aim  were  now 
one — the  salvation  of  the  souls  around  us ;  and  we  de- 
sired no  higher  employment  than  to  serve  them  as  the 
heirs  of  eternal  life.  We  felt  that  they  belonged  to 
Christ,  and  he  could  and  would  save  them. 

With  these  views  our  united  strength  was  now  con- 
secrated to  this  work,  which  the  Lord  of  the  vineyard 
had  evidently  assigned  us.  Our  meetings  were  held  in 
the  house  mentioned  in  the  last  chapter,  which  was 
thirty  by  twenty  feet ;  but  on  the  sabbath  it  would  not 
hold  the  people,  so  that  sometimes  it  was  necessary  to 
hold  a  meeting  in  the  other  house  at  the  same  time. 
Every  morning  and  evening  they  were  assembled  for 


..T 


184 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


■v- 


public  prayers,  when  a  portion  of  New  Testament  his- 
tory was  expounded  by  one  of  us.  Such  was  their 
interest  in  the  meetings,  that  the  want  of  clothing  suf- 
ficient to  protect  them  from  the  cold,  or  of  shoes  to  keep 
their  feet  from  the  frost  and  snow — for  even  many  of 
the  women  had  none — could  not  keep  them  away,  though 
they  had  to  walk  a  mile  in  going  and  returning.  Who, 
let  me  ask,  in  this  Christian  land,  would  do  more  than 
this  in  order  to  hear  the  blessed  gospel  ?  Some  time 
after  my  return  from  the  Walamet,  there  being  about 
twenty  souls,  men  and  women,  in  deep  distress  on  ac- 
count of  their  sins,  and  apparently  near  the  "  kingdom," 
we  met  in  a  special  prayer  meeting,  where  few  except 
those  were  present.  Here  was  earnest,  united  pray- 
ing, and  the  "  kingdom  of  heaven  was  taken  by  vio- 
lence." More  than  half  the  number  gave  evidence  of 
a  happy  change.  Their  agitated  hearts  felt  an  un- 
known peace,  a  joyful  smile  sat  on  their  faces,  and 
their  lips  praised  the  name  of  Jesus.  "  Mi-cah  Jesus 
Christ  e-toke-te ! — Thou,  Jesus  Christ,  art  good !" 
"  Cupet  mi-cah  mi-mah  e-toke-te  ! — Thou  alone  art 
good  !" — "  Can-nu-it  e-toke-te  ! — Certainly  thou  art 
good  !"  "  Jesus  good  !"  "  Jesus  good  !" 

The  "  Spirit  of  adoption"  was  now  as  manifest  as 
had  been  a  little  before  the  "  spirit  of  bondage."  One 
of  these,  a  leading  man,  who  is  sometimes  called  "  Bos- 
ton" by  his  people,  because  his  head  is  not  flattened, 
was  some  time  before  asked  by  Mr.  Perkins  why  he 
rose  so  much  earlier  than  formerly.  "Why,"  said  he, 
"  I  cannot  sleep.  When  I  go  home  and  lie  down,  I 
think  of  your  teaching,  and  I  cannot  sleep.  I  sleep  a 
little,  and  then  dream  I  am  in  meeting,  and  my  heart 
is  all  the  time  talking  over  what  you  say.  My  heart 
was  formerly  asleep,  I  see,  but  now  it  is  awake."  As 
soon  as  his  own  proud  spirit  was  humbled,  and  his 
troubled  conscience  had  found  peace,  he  souuht  his 
wife  and  daughter,  knelt  by  them,  and  told  them  to 
pray. 

Here  may  be  given  a  specimen  of  their  praying. 


!    ^ 


,'^' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


185 


O  thou  great  God  on  high,  we  now  pray  to  thee.  Our 
fathers  knew  thee  not,  they  died  in  darkness,  but  we 
have  heard  of  thee, — ^now  we  see  a  little.  Truly  we 
are  wretched !  Our  hearts  were  blind,— dark  as  night, 
— always  foolish, — our  ears  closed !  Our  hearts  bad, 
— all  bad, — always  bad, — ^fuU  of  evil, — nothing  good, 
not  one !  Thou  knowest !  Truly  we  pray  now  to  thee. 
O  make  us  good !  Put  away  our  bad  hearts.  Give  us 
thy  Holy  Spirit  to  make  our  hearts  soft !  Our  hearts 
are  hard  like  a  stone.  Give  us  light.  O  make  our  hearts 
new, — ^good, — ^all  good, — always  good !  Formerly  we 
stole, — told  lies, — were  full  of  anger;  now  done  ! 
** Nash-ke  alka  ka-dow ! — Never  again  so!"  Now 
we  desire  thee,  O  come  into  our  hearts, — now  come ! 
Jesus  Christ  thy  Son  died  for  us ;  O  Jesus,  wash  our  ■. 
hearts  !  "  Minch't-cah-meet  cow-o-lute  quich-cah ! — 
Behold  and  bless !" 

Several  others  were  soon  after  added  to  this  number. 
Mrs.  Perkins  now  devoted  a  part  of  every  day  in  prayer 
meetings  with  the  females,  and  the  work  continued  to 

f)rosper.  The  voice  of  prayer  was  now  heard  in  the 
odge,  and  wood,  and  glen ;  the  early  morning  and  the 
evening  were  vocal  with  the  suppliant's  voice,  and  the 
place  where  the  "  church-going  bell"  was  "  never 
heard,"  was  honoured  with  the  presence  of  the  "  Head 
of  the  church"  in  many  a  hallowed  spot  where  he  met 
the  contrite  "  sinner  returning  from  his  ways." 

There  was  an  old  man,  who  for  some  time  stood 
aloof  from  the  work,  because  others  of  a  lower  class 
took  the  lead  in  it ;  and  this  made  him  of  less  conse- 
quence than  he  desired,  and  he  had  opposed  the  little 
band  for  several  weeks.  During  this  time  he  was  in 
a  very  unhappy  state  of  mind.  One  day  as  tlie  writer 
was  speaking  with  him  closely  about  God,  whom  he 
was  bound  to  obey  and  love,  he  seemed  deeply  affected, 
and  wept,  and  while  we  prayed  together  his  tears 
flowed  freely ;  he  did  not,  however,  yield  his  heart  to 
God  till  the  1st  of  May,  several  weeks  after.  "  How 
do  you  feel  ?"  said  Mr.  Perkins  to  another  old  man  as 


t 


■  1 J 

m 


iti 


m  p} 


J 


■W. 


186 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


they  were  going  out  to  pray  in  the  wood.  "  O,"  said 
he,  "  my  heart  is  very  small  and  sorrowful.  Yester- 
day I  prayed  most  all  day  out  behind  that  hill,"  point- 
ing to  a  distant  hill ;  "  but  my  heart  is  still  bad !" 
"  Je^sus  can  change  it,"  said  Mr.  P. ;  "  Jesus  has  died 
for  you  !"  So  kneeling  down  they  prayed.  The  poor 
old  man  believed  in  Jesus,  and  light,  love,  and  joy 
filled  his  heart — another  proof  of  the  love  of  God  to  the 
poor,  whom  he  makes  "  heirs  of  his  kingdom  !" 

These  pages  relate  to  the  work  at  the  station,  chiefly 
among  the  Indians  of  the  Caclasco  Village  near  it,  and 
this  continued  to  spread  till  but  a  small  number  were 
left,  and  also  extended  to  two  small  villages  a  few 
miles  below,  embracing  also  a  little  village  of  Wallah- 
wallahs,  living  near  Caclasco;  most  of  them  were 
formed  into  classes  by  Mr.  Perkins  before  the  10th  of 
January,  1840.  The  writer  had  been  labouring  among 
the  Indians  on  the  river  below,  down  to  the  Cascades, . 
of  which  he  will  speak  hereafter,  and  first  notice  this 
work  at  its  introduction  among  the  Indians  at  Wish- 
ham. 

Mr.  Perkins  visited  this  village  on  the  1  Olh  of  Jan., 
1840.  The  round-head  man,  "  Boston,"  was  with 
him,  as  an  interpreter :  this  man  had  assisted  him  from 
the  day  of  his  conversion,  and  was  found  an  efficient 
helper :  the  season  was  cold,  and  the  first  night  they 
took  little  notice  of  him :  encamped  in  a  lodge  of  sticks 
and  mats.  There,  next  day,  he  found  a  large  cellar, 
which  was  formerly  used  as  a  dancing  hall,  and  clear- 
ing it  out,  used  it  for  a  meeting  house.  It  was  large 
enough  to  hold  all  the  village,  three  hundred  souls. 
A  few  men  and  boys,  and  about  twenty-five  women, 
came  in  the  forenoon.  Their  number  increased  at  every 
meeting,  till  on  the  fourth  day  almost  the  whole  village 
were  present.  Such  subjects  never  met  your  eyes  ! 
Naked,  squalid,  deformed,  blind,  halt,  lame :  Mr.  P. 
truly  adds,  "  destruction  and  misery  are  in  their  ways," 
as  saith  the  Scriptures.  After  he  had  preached  two 
days,  they  seemed  to  awake  as  from  a  dream ;  many 


I  > 


•■# 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


.«* 


187 


eyes 


many 


began  to  pray,  and  the  cry  became  general  as  the  meet- 
ing progressed.  The  barren  rocks  behind  Wishham 
echoed  their  earnest  prayers,  and  many  afterward  tes- 
tified that  they  became  nappy  while  thus  engaged,  and 
many  spoke  feelingly  of  their  past  wretchedness  and 
darkness,  and  seemed  to  feel  a  deep  abhorrence  of  their 
sins,  and  expressed  a  determination  to  serve  God 
henceforth.  One  old  man,  on  hearing  Mr.  Perkins*  in- 
terpreter tell  the  history  of  Jesus,  exclaimed,  "  This 
is  the  talk  I  want  to  hear !"  Then  addressing  Mr. 
Perkins,  he  with  a  poker  drew  some  coals  from  the 
fire,  saying,  "  There,  you  have  come  just  so  to  pull  me 
out  of  the  fire !"  At  his  subsequent  visits,  during  the 
winter,  the  work  appeared  to  be  continually  advancing, 
and  several  were  found  to  be  useful  as  exhorters.  Here 
he  formed  several  classes,  including  a  very  large  part 
of  the  village.  •>  « 

A  similar  work  was  witnessed  by  the  writer  in  the 
villages  down  the  river  as  far  as  the  Cascades.  They 
numbered  about  four  hundred  and  seventy-five  souls. 
To  them  the  word  was  communicated  through  an  inter- 
preter, who  was  the  first  fruits  of  this  work  of  God. 
The  preaching  was  the  simple  story  of  the  gospel,  the 
history  of  Him  who  died  to  take  away  our  sin.  The 
interpreter  and  another  convert  who  was  with  us  la- 
boured in  exhortation  and  prayer;  and  the  people  in  most 
of  the  villages,  it  was  believed,  repented,  like  the  Nine- 
vites,  "  from  the  least  to  the  greatest ;"  and,  like  the 
people  of  Samaria,  "gave  heed  with  one  consent  to  the 
things  Uiey  heard."  The  aged  and  the  young  all  seemed 
to  rejoice  in  the  glad  tidings  which  were  now  first 
brought  to  their  ears.  Classes  were  formed  in  all  the 
villages,  six  in  number,  and  leaders  appointed ;  and  after 
this,  while  the  writer  was  labouring  the  rest  of  the  winter 
at  Fort  Vancouver  and  among  the  Indians  in  the  vicinity, 
Mr.  P.  made  them  frequent  visits,  and  found  them  hold- 
ing fast  the  truths  they  had  received.  At  the  station,  too, 
the  good  work  had  continued  to  advance.  Besides,  Mr. 
Perkins  spent  some  time  among  the  neighbouring  Wal- 


MM 

;'  'id 


l\ 


■y?- 


188 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


lah-wallahs,  at  the  Shoots,  with  good  effect.  He  had 
acquired  the  previous  summer  a  siSBcient  knowledge  of 
their  language  to  enable  him  to  speak  it  with  fluency. 
The  writer's  labours  among  the  Indians  at  Vancouver 
were  not  attended  with  as  much  success  as  above  the 
Cascades ;  yet  he  has  no  reason  to  regret  his  attempt 
to  do  them  good,  but  rather  is  happy  in  the  thought 
that  he  was  permitted  the  honour  to  unfold  to  them  the 
love  wherewith  Christ  hath  loved  them.  Night  and 
day,  from  house  to  house,  he  preached  unto  them  Jesus. 
They  then  heard,  and  never  before,  the  simple,  pure 
truths  of  the  gospel ;  and  that,  as  a  people,  they  will 
ever  again  hear  them,  is  not  probable,  for  there  are 
influences  thrown  around  them  which  cut  off  the  ap- 
proach of  truth.  But  he  that  goeth  forth,  and  with  tears 
sows  the  precious  seed,  has  no  cause  to  be  ashamed — 
the  seed  may  appear  after  many  days ;  but  if  not,  if 
the  tares  spring  up,  he  knows  their  origin  and  his 
Master's  direction,  "  Let  them  grow  until  harvest." 
While  here  the  writer  preached  frequently  to  the  hired 
servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  and  they  ap- 
peared to  hear  with  some  mterest.  Often  while  he 
was  speaking  to  them  was  his  own  spirit  refreshed. 
Was  the  word  mixed  with  faith  in  them  who  heard  ? 
O  that  the  "  fruit  may  be  found  after  many  days !" 
In  the  fort  he  usually  preached  tvirice  on  the  sabbath. 
The  attention  of  all  was  serious,  and  the  Lord  stood  by 
his  servant,  that  he  might  "  open  "  his  "  mouth  boldly, 
and  speak  as  he  ought  to  speak."  In  the  various  efforts 
which  he  made  here  to  benefit  the  different  classes,  he 
believes  that  he  was  actuated  with  a  pure  desire,  em- 
bracing his  own  salvation,  the  glory  of  God,  and  the 
good  of  souls.  The  Lord  be  praised  who  strengthened 
my  hands,  and  cheered  my  heart,  in  the  toils,  and 
trials,  and  temptations  of  that  period.  To  the  gentle- 
men of  the  company  he  will  ever  feel  under  great 
obligations  for  tneir  many  **  kind  attentions  toward 
him,"  during  his  residence  there  at  that  time. 
!  On  the  13th  of  February  Mr.  Perkins  met  me  there, 


V 


t 


em- 
the 
lened 
and 
entle- 
great 
ward 

there, 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


It- 


ISO 


having  just  come  from  the  Dalls.  He  found  much 
snow  at  the  Cascades,  and  suffered  considerably  from 
exposure  on  the  trip.  We  were  glad  to  meet,  and  to 
speak  of  the  work  of  God,  and  to  pray  together  once 
more  for  its  advancement.  ^ 

In  March  the  writer  left  Vancouver  on  his  return  to 
the  Dalls,  visited  all  the  villages  above  the  Cascades, 
where  he  had  laboured,  on  his  way  down,  and  found 
them  in  a  prosperous  state,  "walking  in  the  truth." 
Having  been  previously  instructed  in  the  nature  and 
design  of  the  ordinance  of  baptism,  they  were  most  of 
them  now  baptized,  both  adults  and  children.  Who 
could  "forbid  water"  that  they  should  be  baptized? 
Especially  when,  according  to  Scripture  example,  they 
might  have  been  admitted  to  that  ordinance  on  the  day 
in  which  they  first  believed.  The  season  was  one  of 
great  joy  to  the  writer ;  and  the  happiness  of  these 
poor  yet  simple  believers  was  another  proof  of  the 
power  of  the  gospel  to  triumph  over  the  deepest  degra- 
dation and  the  most  abject  destitution.  This  only  did, 
and  this  only  could,  produce  the  change  that  was  seen 
among  them.  Their  former  enmities  and  quarrels 
among  neighbours  and  in  families,  which  were  frequent, 
were  subdued,  and  peace  now  prevailed  among  them. 
Arrangements  were  now  made  for  a  camp  meeting,  to 
be  held  early  in  the  month  of  April,  about  six  miles 
below  the  Dalls,  and  three  miles  from  the  mission 
house,  at  a  place  called  Cow-e-laps.  ^ 

Arriving  at  the  station,  one  more  interview  willi  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Perkins  was  my  joyful  privilege  ;  and  here 
a  large  number  of  the  Caclasco  Indians,  and  others 
near  them,  were,,  on  the  few  following  days,  including 
a  sabbath,  baptized.  Here  my  spirit  was  greatly  re- 
freshed by  seeing  the  extended  influence  of  the  gospel 
among  them. 

Taking  Mr.  Perkins,  we  went  to  Wishham.  Here 
we  found  the  people  engaged  in  the  duties  of  their 
profession ;  and  held  several  meetings  in  public,  in  the 
open  air,  the  hearers  sitting  on  the  ground;  visited  and 


H 


SII9 


mi 


VI 


I'll 


V I 


iKqi 


i^w 


190 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


pi  i 


prayed  from  lodge  to  lodge,  and  administered  baptism 
to  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  souls. 

After  this  Mr.  Perkins,  accompanied  by  his  wife, 
went  down  the  river,  labouring  at  the  villages  both  going 
and  returning,  till  the  time  appointed  to  hold  the  camp 
meeting ;  and  the  writer,  meantime,  taking  two  of  the 
converts  from  Wascopam,  and  one  from  Wishham,  went 
to  preach  to  two  villages  of  the  Clickatats  residing 
inland  to  the  northward,  and  numbering  more  than  two 
hundred  souls.  Here  he  saw  such  a  readiness  to  hear 
and  to  follow  the  teachings  of  the  gospel  as  had  not 
been  surpassed  in  any  other  place.  The  old,  and  the 
middle-aged,  and  the  young,  even  little  children,  re- 
ceived it  as  the  most  joyous  tidings  that  ever  saluted 
their  ears ;  and  their  earnest  prayers  and  confessions 
told  how  fully  they  believed  it  was  the  word  of  the 
Great  Spirit,  given  both  to  govern  them  and  to  save 
them.  Never  did  the  writer  enjoy  his  work  more  than 
while  engaged  among  these  poor  red  men  in  preaching, 
and  exhorting,  and  praying  for  their  salvation.  That 
numbers  of  them  were  converted  there  was  no  room 
for  him  to  doubt.  Subsequently  they  attended  the 
camp  meeting,  to  which  the  reader's  attention  is  now 
called.  At  this  meeting  about  twelve  hundred  were 
present  from  the  villages  along  the  river,  from  the  Cas- 
cades, from  Wishham  and  Caclasco,  and  from  the  neigh- 
bouring Wallah-wallahs,  and  the  Clickatats,  as  named 
above.  The  spot  was  chosen  in  theopen  plain,  bound- 
ed on  one  side  by  a  ridge  of  rocks,  at  the  foot  of  which 
the  writer  pitched  his  tent,  while  on  either  hand  were 
ranged  the  wigwams  of  the  natives,  gradually  rounding 
in  a  circle,  meeting  in  front,  and  enclosing  an  area  of 
half  an  acre.  The  wigwams  were  made  of  willow 
pgles  set  in  the  ground  in  a  circular  or  oblong  form, 
mclining  toward  the  centre  at  an  angle  of  fifty  degrees, 
and  enclosed  with  mats  of  grass,  having  a  large  open- 
ing at  the  top,  and  a  door  at  each  end,  with  a  fire  in 
the  middle,  and  sometimes  two  fires,  when  the  tenement 
was  long,  and  then  it  was  occupied  by  a  large  number, 


A* 


TEN  TEAikS  IN  OREOON. 


■^^ 


191 


perhaps  thirty.  When  it  was  completed,  the  tops  of  the 
poles  were  the  most  prominent  elevation  of  our  city, 
which  had  grown  up  in  a  day.  The  good  order  ob- 
served throughout  the  whole  meeting  was  never  sur- 
passed in  an  assembly  of  such  numbers,  and  which 
continued  so  long  together.  At  daylight  they  were 
awakened  by  the  sound  of  a  trumpet,  and  soon  after  en- 
gaged, first  in  singing,  and  then  in  prayer,  in  their 
houses.  Then  followed  the  washing  of  hands  and 
faces,  after  which  they  took  breakfast.  For  public 
exercises  they  were  called  together  three  or  four  times 
during  the  day,  the  women  and  the  men  apart,  with  a 
space  of  four  or  five  yards  intervening,  sitting  on  the 
ground,  sometimes  with  a  mat  or  a  bear-skin  spread  be- 
neath them,  and  a  blanket  or  skin  or  mat  over  their  shoul- 
ders ;  presenting  a  dense  mass  of  black  heads  and  sun- 
burnt faces,  alternating  between  adults,  and  babes,  and 
little  children,  withered  old  age,  and  gray  heads,  rem- 
nants of  other  days  !  and The  pencil  drops.  The 

company  beggars  description !  To  know,  the  reader 
must  sec.  But  they  were  met  to  hear  words  by  which 
they  might  be  saved — to  hear  those  truths  repeated 
which  had  so  much  interested  them  for  several  months — 
truths  which  they  delighted  to  hear.  The  great  and 
most  important  facts  of  revelation  were  spread  out  be- 
fore them  in  a  connected  chain,  beginning  with  accounts 
of  the  creation,  then  of  the  formation  of  man,  the  insti- 
tution of  the  sabbath,  and  marriage  ;  the  fall  of  man ; 
his  punishment ;  the  promise  of  Christ ;  the  first  mur- 
derer ;  the  wickedness  of  man  causing  a  flood ;  Noah 
saved ;  man^s  wicked  attempt  to  build  Babel ;  its  conse- 
quences ;  the  history  of  Abraliam,  Isaac,  and  Jacob 
and  his  sons,  particularly  Joseph ;  the  Jews  in  bond- 
age ;  Moses  in  Egypt ;  the  Jews  led  by  him  through 
the  desert ;  brouglit  into  Canaan  ;  the  wicked  Canaan- 
ites  destroyed ;  disobedience  of  the  Jews ;  its  punish- 
ment ;  the  coming  of  Christ  according  to  the  prophe- 
cies ;  baptism,  temptation,  miracles,  instructions,  per- 
secutions, death,  resurrection,  ascension,  and  second 


m 


III 


I" 


192 


TXN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


cominff  to  judge,  to  reward  ;  comnais&ion  to  his  disci- 
ples ;  retitecost ;  labours,  and  sufferings,  and  success, 
and  death  of  the  apostles ;  their  own  duty  to  obey  the 
word  of  Christ,  never  turning  again  to  their  former 
wicked  ways ;  the  Holy  Spirit ;  the  new  heart,  without 
which  nothing  would  avail ;  that  this  was  necessary  in 
order  to  be  good,  or  do  good,  or  ensure  good;  this 
through  Jesus  Christ  only;  he  died  for  them.  To 
these  truths  they  listened  with  the  most  earnest  atten- 
tion and  apparent  devotion.  Such  deep  and  general 
solemnity  the  writer  has  seldom  witnessed.  In  the  in- 
tervals of  public  worship  they  withdrew  some  distance 
from  the  ground  and  engaged  in  prayer  alone.  Prayers 
in  their  houses  in  the  evening  closed  the  day.  Thus 
the  time  was  employed  till  the  ensuing  sabbath,  our 
meeting  having  continued  from  Monday,  when  the 
communion  was  administered  to  several  hundreds.  To 
the  administrator  it  was  a  day  of  labour,  but  one  of 
"refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the  Lord."  The 
solemn  presence  of  God  seemed  to  pervacje  almost 
every  heart,  and  a  deep  conviction  that  great  was  the 
love  of  Christ  in  dying  for  us,  whose  death  we  now 
recognised  in  the  bread  and  wine  which  we  ate  and 
drank  as  emblems  of  "  his  broken  body  and  his  shed 
blood." 

Thus  ended  a  day  that  the  writer  will  long  remem- 
ber with  thankfulness  to  the  God  of  love  that  he  was 
ever  permitted  to  see  it ;  and  he  expects  to  meet  pre- 
cious souls,  with  whom  he  enjoyed  that  communion,  in 
the  kingdom  of  heaven,  and  will  ever  pray  in  hope  of 
that  event.  The  next  day  our  meeting  closed  in  great 
peace ;  and  all  the  Indians  scattered  to  their  various 
quarters  to  engage  in  removing  to  their  fishing-grounds 
against  the  arrival  of  the  salmon  :  and  thus  tlie  writer 
will  leave  them  for  the  present,  and  notice  the  move- 
ment of  affairs  at  the  Walamet  station  down  to  the 
present  period. 

The  mission  school,  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Geiger, 
numbered  thirty-six  children,  and  their  improvement 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


193 


on,  in 
)pe  of 
great 
arious 
ounds 
writer 
move- 
to  the 

reiger, 
fement 


was  encouraging.  After  the  decease  of  Mr.  Shepard 
there  followed  a  revival  of  the  work  of  God,  and  the 
result  was  a  hiffher  state  of  enjoyment  in  the  hearts  of 
his  people,  'rhe  Lord  also  made  bare  his  arm  in  the 
conversion  of  several  white  men  :  to  his  name  be  all  the 
praise.  The  sabbath  school  also  numbered  forty-six 
scholars,  and  was  in  a  prosperous  state — a  good  state 
of  religious  feeling  prevailed. 

Mrs.  Leslie  was  in  bad  health  most  of  the  time,  and 
this  with  other  cases  of  sickness  in  Mr.  Leslie's  family 
demanded  much  of  his  time  for  watchins  and  Ylursing, 
and  almost  all  the  etceteras  of  the  househdd  affairs  often 
devolved  in  a  great  measure  upon  him ;  besides,  he 
had  frequent  attacks  of  the  intermittent  fever,  which 
left  one  only  half  a  man,  and  with  all  this,  how  much 
missionary  labour  could  he  perform  ?  Let  the  friends 
of  missions  but  remember  that  sickness  disables  for 
efficient  labour,  and  that  the  missionaries  in  Oregon 
have  suffered  a  large  amount,  and  they  will  be  con- 
vinced that  their  efforts  must  have  been  feeble,  and 
therefore  inefficient,  and  that  the  good  done  equals  the 
work  actually  performed,  at  its  lowest  estimate.  Re- 
turning from  this  digression  to  the  Dalls,  the  reader  will 
please  to  embark  with  the  writer  for  a  trip  to  Walamet, 
and  thence  to  Chenook.  Immediately  after  the  camp 
meeting  he  started  down  the  river,  preaching  to  the 
Indians  wherever  he  found  them,  they  bavins  broken 
up  their  winter  residences,  and  pitched  along  here  and 
there  on  the  river,  in  stations  convenient  for  obtaining  a 
good  supply  of  roots.  Pursuing  our  way  we  came  to 
the  Walamet  station :  this  was  my  first  visit  there  since 
the  death  of  my  ever  dear  brother  Mr.  Shepard,  and 
now  he  who  used  to  meet  me  at  the  gate  and  embrace 
me  in  his  arms,  on  former  visits,  met  me  not — no,  his 

Elace  was  empty  ;  but  at  the  door  the  writer  was  met 
y  his  once  smiling  companion  bathed  in  tears ;  words 
could  not  tell  her  sorrows  nor  reveal  my  sympathies  ! 
How  changed !  The  husband,  the  father,  the  brother, 
absent,  gone  !    Will  return  no  more  !    But  the  widow's 

9 


m 


i 

if 


* 


194 


^*- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


.^  heart  was  found  trusting  in  God,  and  she  felt  that  his 
"^consolations  were  neither  few  nor  small.  In  commu- 
nion with  his  Christian  friends  here  the  writer  enjoyed 
a  season  of  rest  and  delight  for  a  few  short  days,  and 
bidding  them  farewell  glided  down  the  Walamet,  and 
calling  on  Mr.  Smith  was  with  his  crew  hospitably 
entertained  over  night.  His  wife  had  lately  professed 
to  meet  with  a  change  of  heart,  and  appeared  zealously 
affected  for  the  welfare  of  the  Indians  in  the  lower 
country  near  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia ;  and  soon  as 
arrangements  could  be  made,  Mr.  Smith  determined  to 
accompany  me,  taking  her  with  him,  on  my  trip  to  Che- 
nook.  Having  got  all  ready  for  the  voyage,  Saturday, 
May  16th,  we  stepped  into  our  canoes,  and  in  the  even- 
ing encamped  at  the  falls.  Here  we  passed  the  sab- 
bath and  held  meetings  with  the  Indians.  Monday  we 
left  the  falls  and  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  and  on 
Wednesday,  P.  M.,  reached  a  small  village,  near 
Oak  Point,  called  Ne-co-ni-ac.  Here  we  put  ashore, 
^and  held  a  meeting,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Smith  using  their 
endeavours  to  persuade  the  poor  inhabitants  to  believe 
the  instructions  they  received.  Thence  we  proceeded 
to  Chenook,  where  we  arrived  on  Thursday  about  noon. 
We  had  but  just  arranged  our  camp,  when,  casting  my 
eye  toward  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a  vessel  was  seen 
sailing  up  the  channel  close  under  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment, and  in  a  few  minutes  more  she  dropped  anchor 
in  Baker's  Bay. 

The  vessel,  as  the  writer  anticipated,  was  the 
Lausanne,  Capt.  Spalding,  with  the  reinforcement  to 
the  Oregon  Mission  which  sailed  from  New-Yorkt  as 
we  had  been  previously  informed,  in  Nov.,  1839,  and 
whose  arrival  had  been  anxiously  expected  for  some 
time.  Mr.  Smith  and  myself  now  went  to  Chenam- 
as,  the  Chenook  chief,  end  let  him  know  that  we 
wanted  to  go  on  board,  as  probably  our  people  had 
come  in  the  ship.  The  water  being  rough,  he  launched 
a  larffe  canoe  with  a  crew  of  fifteen  to  twenty  men,  in 
which  he  and  hie  wife  also  embarked,  and  we  were  all 


^. 


80( 

in, 

sld 

rec 

wit] 

peal 

ana 

we  \ 

hadi 

folloi 

this  I 


^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


iis 


it  his 
nmu- 
joyed 
J,  and 
t,  and 
)itably 
fessed 
dously 

lower 
soon  as 
lined  to 
to  Cbe- 
iturday, 
le  even- 
tbe  sab- 
nday  we 

and  on 
ge,  near 
t  asbore, 
«ng  tbeir 
0  believe 
irocceded 

out  noon. 

isting  my 

Bvas  seen 

Lsappoi'^t" 
5d  ancbor 


soon  bounding  delightfully  over  the  proud  waves,  and 
in  a  short  time  we  found  ourselves  alongside  the  good 
ship  Lausanne,  which  we  boarded,  and  were  kindly 
received  by  the  captain,  and  soon  became  acquainted 
with  the  welcome  passengers,  through  the  aid  of  re- 
peated  introductions,  as  they  thronged  around  us.  Here 
an  acquaintance,  Mr.  David  Carter  of  Missouri,  met  me : 
we  were  glad  of  the  unexpected  interview.  Mr.  J.  Lee 
had  gone  on  shore,  but  soon  returned :  a  hearty  greeting 
followed.  The  names  of  the  gentlemen  and  ladies  oF 
this  reinforcement  will  appear  in  the  next  chapter,  liv- 
ing an  account  of  their  embarkation  and  voyage.  We 
had  an  agreeable  interview,  very  gratifying,  but  asso- 
ciated with  some  very  tender  and  painful  remem- 
brances ;  we  had  since  we  last  met  been  subjected  to 
some  sore  bereavements  !  But  the  next  day  we  left 
with  Chenamas,  and  Mr.  J.  Lee  preceded  in  a  canoe 
directly  to  Walamet,  leaving  the  new  recruits  to  as- 
cend to  Vancouver  in  their  well-tried  sea-boat,  and  my- 
self and  Mr.  Smith  to  go  on  with  the  mission  among 
the  Chenooks.  Here  we  remained  some  days,  giving 
the  people  instruction,  held  meetings,  visited,  exhorted, 
and  prayed,  from  lodce  to  lodge,  in  which  Mr.  Smith 
and  his  wife  laboured  zealously,  as  did  also  the  con- 
verts who  came  with  me  from  the  Dalls.  Leaving  the 
Chenooks,  we  went  to  the  Clatsops,  and  then  to  Fort 
George. 

Having  obtained  another  canoe,  for  Mr.  J.  Lee  had 
taken  the  one  we  came  in,  we  started  up  the  river,  and 
on  Monday,  June  1st,  reached  Vancouver.  The  oc- 
currences of  the  next  two  months,  during  which  tfme 
my  associate  writer  and  myself  were  together,  wili  be 
found  in  a  succeeding  chapter.  Before  resuming  the 
story  of  the  Dalls  station,  it  is  due  to  the  reader  to  have 
a  fuller  account  of  that  part  of  the  Columbia  called  the 
Dalls.  This  shall  be  done  in  the  next  chapter,  which 
shall  also  include  some  account  of  the  Shoots,  and  of 
the  Cascades.      ^  ^^^^  '.w^inu  ^^^.luuiiiunwis^mf 


^' 


,# 


196 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREOON. 


*j^v«3 


CHAPTER  XVra, 

Draoriptnm  of  the  Columbia  River,  dike,  rapidi,  rocky  islimdfe,  Ste.-— 
'WhirlpoM,  in  which  a  party  belongine  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  were 
engulrad,  and  most  of  them  perisned— Indian  mode  of  fi8hing--M ore  than 
one  thousaDnl  Indians  employ  a  portion  of  their  time  in  the  salmon  fishery-^ 
The  Cascades — ^Indian  hymn  and  translation. 

Ascending  this  majestic  river  two  hundred  and 
eighty  miles,  amidst  basaltic  columns  and  overhanging 
mountains,  we  arrive  at  the  Dalls,  where  the  whole 
volume  of  the  river,  half  a  mile  wide,  rushes  through 
a  deep  narrow  channel,  which  the  action  of  the  water 
has  formed  in  the  course  of  ages,  through  an  extended 
tract  of  the  hardest  basalt.  Two  miles  below  the 
Large  Dalls,  or,  as  named  by  some,  the  Long  Nar- 
rows, is  a  dike  extending  from  the  south  shore  three- 
fourths  across,  which  is  bare  in  low  water,  turning 
the  current  into  a  deep  bay  on  the  north  side ;  but  the 
high  water  pours  over  it,  and  forms  a  dangerous  rapid. 
Reaching  the  foot  of  the  Dalls,  our  attention  is  arrest- 
ed by  several  rocky  islands  that  for  ages  have  borne 
unmoved  the  shock  of  the  mighty  billows  which,  at  an 
earlier  period,  severed  them  from  their  neighbouring 
rocks.  One  of  these  is  a  depot  for  the  bodies  of  the 
dead.  Those  square  wooden  huts,  ten  feet  every  way, 
are  their  tombs.  Some  of  them  are  very  ancient;  but 
the  climate  is  dry,  and  decay  slow.  How  many  gene- 
rations of  red  men  here  mingle  their  dust  ?  Who  can 
tell  ?  That  long,  black  rock,  mid-channel,  some  dis- 
tance below,  is  covered  in  hi^  water,  and  there  is  nedr 
it  a  fearful  whirlpool.  Many  years  a^o  a  boat  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  was  drawn  into  it,  and  most 
of  the  crew  perishea.  A  mile  brings  us  to  the  head 
of  the  .chasm,  which,  diminishing  in  breadth  to  this 
point,  is  here  only  from  thirty  to  fifty  yards  broad. 
Alonff  this  the  fishers  swing  their  nets,  standing  on  a 
scaffdding  fastened  to  tlie  rocks,  and  extended  a  few 
feet  over  the  foaming  waters.    See  there,  the  net  will 


1^ 


fcjSvvS 


i,  Ac- 
ay  wefe 
ore  than 
Lshery— 

d  and 
anging 
whole 
hrough 
5  water 
rtended 
3W  the 
ig  Nar- 
B  three- 
turning 
but  the 
IS  rapid. 
)  arrest- 
ee borne 
:h,  at  an 
ibouring 
!8  of  the 
;ry  way, 
lent;  but 
ny  gene- 
^ho  can 
ome  dis- 
re  is  near 
It  of  the 
und  most 
the  head 
to  this 
broad, 
ding  on  a 
ed  a  few 
net  will 


« 


ft- 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


197 


hold  from  two  to  three  bushels,  and  the  handle  is  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  long.  He  has  caught  a  fine  salmon, 
and  struck  his  head  with  a  club.  That  is  the  way  they 
kill  them.  More  than  one  thousand  Indians,  of  all  ages, 
pass  from  May  to  September  on  these  rocks,  catching 
and  curing  salmon,  laying  in  large  supplies  for  them- 
selves, and  for  trade  with  some  of  the  other  tribes. 

One  writer  supposes  that  the  water  here  rises  sixty 
feet ;  but  that  this  has  been  recently  the  case  appears 
to  me  improbable,  the  present  bed  of  the  river  having 
been  formed  evidently  at  a  very  remote  period ;  since 
which  the  cuts  at  the  Short  Narrows,  and  below  the 
Shoots,  have  been  made ;  the  latter  having  opened 
a  passage  half  a  mile  in  length  through  a  compact 
basaltic  bed,  the  work,  no  doubt,  of  several  centuries. 
The  agency  by  which  these  changes  were  produced 
had  previously,  by  slow  and  certain  progress,  destroyed 
the  adamantine  barrier  which  for  hundreds  of  years 
had  obstructed  the  course  of  this  grand  river  here  at 
the  Long  Dalls.  Before  this  it  must  have  flowed  at  a 
greater  height,  and  precipitated  itself  down  a  fall  of 
forty  or  fifty  feet,  or  more  probably,  over  a  succession 
of  smaller  falls,  whose  dread  roar,  tor  ages  before  even 
the  red  man's  foot  assumed  this  wide  domain,  echoed, 
in  vale  and  mount,  monotonous  minstrelsy,  that  cheered 
the  desert  solitude  around.  Indian  tradition  says  that 
there  were  falls  at  this  place  formerly,  and  that  they 
prevented  the  salmon  from  ascending  the  river  above. 
Long,  however,  antecedent  to  this  period,  the  mighty 
and  resistless  waters  of  this  great  artery  of  Oregon 
must  have  been  widening  and  deepening  their  bed,  till 
it  now  lies  several  hundred  feet  below  its  early  eleva- 
tion. This  opinion,  which  is  not  a  solitary  one,  derives 
support  from  certain  appearances  at  such  heights : — 
1.  Many  of  the  stones  exhibit  traces  of  the  action  of  the 
water.  2.  The  dry  rocky  islands  are  lengthened  in 
the  probable  direction  of  the  current.  3.  The  frequent 
deep  cuts  in  the  basalt  like  those  alone  the  present  bed. 
Btit  the  immense  piles  of  sand  which  the  winds  hav^ 


'■,■"'. Urf, 


?''j'H»'  1!  S 


■*lk 


198 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


been  heaping  up  here  for  hundreds  of  years,  conceal, 
doubtless,  far  more  than  is  now  apparent  of  the  mishty 
deeds  of  these  ancient  waters.  Sometimes  the  shifting 
sands  discover  the  polished  rocks  in  perfect  preservation ; 
and  also  caldron-like  excavations  are  met  with  above  the 
bed  where  the  river  now  flows.  The  rocks  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  have  much  the  same  appearance,  as 
having  belonged  to  the  same  continuous  bed  from  which 
a  portion,  half  a  mile  wide,  has  been  removed,  appa- 
rently not  by  the  violent  agency  of  an  earthquake,  out 
by  the  unceasing  action  of  water  alone. 

Leaving  these  conjectures,  the  next  object  to  be  no- 
ticed is  the  Small  Dalls,  two  miles  further  up.  Here 
the  river  passes  through  a  very  deep  and  narrow  cut 
in  the  basaltic  rock,  which  rises  some  twenty  or  thirty 
feet  above  its  surface.  The  water  pours  through  this 
channel  virith  great  velocity,  except  at  high  water,  when 
it  spreads  out  over  the  sands  to  the  eastward.  In  low 
water  they  run  these  narrows  in  boats.  Standing  on  the 
verse  of  the  rocky  bank,  you  would  be  almost  petrified 
with  fear  for  their  safety  as  they  career  midst  the  angry 
whirlpools  and  breakers.  In  September,  1834,  the 
writer  thus  viritnessed  the  passage  of  a  boat  through  this 
place,  and  the  performance  appeared  to  him  as  one  of 
great  risk  and  imminent  danger. 

Three  miles  further  we  arrive  at  the  Shoots,  (French, 
Les  Chutes.)  They  are  on  the  south  side,  close  to  the 
shore,  and  less  than  fifty  yards  over,  to  a  point  of  rocks 
widening  into  an  extensive  hA,  and  extending  thence 
across  Uie  river  to  the  bank  on  the  north  side.  This 
rocky  bed,  in  low  water,  is  mostly  dry,  but  cut  here 
and  there  with  small  streams  which  have  opened  for 
themselves  a  way  on  its  surface.  The  shoot  is  nearly 
perpendicular,  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  fall. 
Durinff  the  great  annual  rise  which  occurs  m  May  and 
June  they  are  flooded,  and  then  boats  pass  them  with- 
out makme  a  portage.  Here  is  an  excellent  salmon 
fishery,  and  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  Indians 
spend  one-third  of  the  year  at  these  Shootp,    Two 


0 


*c 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


199 


miles  further  on  we  come  to  the  Shoots  River,  which 
has  its  name  from  the  falls  just  described,  or  from  a  fall 
near  its  mouth,  a  short  distance  from  the  Columbia, 
into  which  it  empties  on  the  south  side.  It  rises  to- 
ward the  south-west,  and  is  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  long,  flowing  through  a  very  broken  country, 
generally  void  of  timber.  The  current  is  very  rapid, 
and  broken  with  frequent  falls.  Its  chief  tributaries 
rise  near  the  base  of  Mount  McLaughlin,  which  lies 
to  the  south  of  Mount  Hood.  Twenty-five  miles  from 
its  mouth  there  is  a  fine  salmon  fishery,  where  from 
three  hundred  to  four  hundred  Indians  assemble  during 
the  season  of  salmon,  and  catch  immense  quantities  of 
that  excellent  fish,  which  is  their  principal  support. 
John  Day's  River,  ten  miles  higher  up,  rises  in  the  Blue 
Mountains,  and  runs  north-east  one  hundred  and  twen- 
ty-five miles,  through  a  country  destitute  of  timber. 
The  man  whose  name  it  bears  was  a  Rocky  Mountain 
hunter,  a  Kentuckian,  who  was  robbed  here  and  stripped 
naked  by  the  Indians,  as  before  stated. 

Of  the  Cascades.       ■'"' 

This  great  obstruction  to  the  navigation  of  this  noble 
river  needs  a  further  description  than  has  ever  yet  been 
given  by  any  one  of  the  various  authors  on  Oregon. 
We  find  them  about  140  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river,  in  a  deep  gorge  through  a  chain  of  mountains, 
which  are  forty  miles  in  breadth,  and,  at  this  point, 
rising  in  grandeur  4000  to  5000  feet  on  either  hand. 
From  these  tremendous  elevations,  the  massive  and 
overwhelming  avalanche  has  rushed  impetuously  down, 
at  successive  periods,  into  the  gulf  below,  till  now  the 
distant  mountam  tops  across  are  separated  several  miles. 
Has  all  this  been  done  by  the  water  ?  Perhaps  not 
wholly,  but  only  chiefly.  This  region  has  been  the 
theatre  of  extensive  and  dreadful  convulsions.  That 
these  have  done  much  to  level  the  river  in  its  present 
channel  is  highly  probable.  The  Cascades  appear  to 
be  of  a  comparatively  recent  date,  perhaps  formed 


^!i      .-','1 


i-M 


^:  ^'M 


r'tm 


m 


200 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


within  the  last  three  or  four  centuries.     Above  them, 
for  mora  than  twenty  miles,  the  river  appears  to  be 
twenty  feet  and  upward  above  its  former  bed.     The 
Indians  say  these  falls  are  not  ancient,  and  that  their 
fathers  voyaged  without  obstruction  in  their  canoes  as 
far  as  the  Dsuls.     They  also  assert  that  the  river  was 
dammed  up  at  this  place,  which  caused  the  waters  to 
rise  to  a  great  height  far  above,  and  that  after  cutting 
a  passage  throu^  the  impeding  mass  down  to  its 
present  bed,  these  rapids  first  made  their  appearance. 
,   The  extensive  sands  in  this  part  of  the  river,  and  the 
trunks  of  trees  standing  erect  where  they  grew,  twenty 
feet  below  high  water,  make  it  probable  that  the  Cas- 
cades are  of  modern  date,  and  that  the  channel  was 
^  formerly  much  lower  than  at  present.     Some  of  these 
.trunks  are  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high,  and  two  to 
three  feet  through.    The  wood  within  is  hard  and 
86und;<.no  part  appears  petrified.    The  supposition  that 
a  subsidence  has  occurred  here  appears  groundless. 
Admit  a  dam  at  the  Cascades,  and  these  appearances 
perplex  no  more,  their  origin  seems  natunu.    At  the 
Cascades  there  are  indications  that  the  stream  has  left 
its  former  bed,  in  which  its  course  was  westward,  and 
abruptly  turning  to  the  south,  rushes  on  and  plunges 
down  in  that  direction  nearly  a  mile.    Then  gradually 
turning  to  the  west  one-fourth  of  a  mile,  we  find  the 
Jirst  rapid ;  thence  a  mile,  the  middle  ramd ;  and  a 
mile  and  a  half  further,  the  lower  rapid.    This  appears 
to  be  a  new  channel. 

Above  the  Cascades,  at  the  point  where  the  river 
begins  to  turn  toward  the  south,  and  where  probably 
it  used  to  flow,  is  found  a  very  low  shore,  which  ex- 
tends back,  forming  a  deep  bay  among  the  hills,  in  the 
direction  of  Strawberry  Island.  Further  on  in  this 
course  are  several  small  ponds,  separated  by  intervening 
ridges  of  land  ;  and  then  crossing  a  level  half  a  mile 
we  come  to  the  slue,  which  at  the  time  of  high  water 
runs  east  of  the  island.  The  land  on  both  sides  of 
this  route  is  much  broken,  the  deep  glens  and  precipi- 


%  -1 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


201 


tous  piles  being  covered  with  trees  and  shiubs.  The 
banks  near  the  river  present  a  mixed  formation  of 
various  kinds  of  earths,  of  different  colours,  and  stones 
in  equal  variety.  Basaltic  and  granitic  rock  abounds, 
and  immense  masses  of  the  conglomerate  are  frequent. 
Petrifactions  are  very  common.  Blocks  of  it  may  be 
seen  two  to  three  feet  long,  and  more  than  a  foot  in 
thickness.  One  very  large  has  been  noticed,  one-fourth  of 
a  mile  from  the  river,  at  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  feet. 
The  stream,  forced  into  a  new  channel,  now  washes 
the  base  of  the  mountains  that  bound  its  southern  shore, 
whose  ragged  sides  retain  the  recent  avalanche  in  pause 
or  rest,  the  voracious  element  beneath  having  long  been 
satiated  with  the  massive  contributions  of  remoter  pe- 
riods. Often  from  these  fearful  heights  the  severed  rock, 


" exulting,  with  a  bound,    ■ 

Whirls,  leaps,  and  thunders  down  impetuous  to  the  ground." 

To  make  this  vast  excavation  between  the  opposite 
mountains  has  taken  many  centuries,  and  the  river  has 
doubtless  been  the  "  chief  workman ;"  but  other  agents 
have  been  employed,  and  among  these  the  earthquake 
has  been  the  most  powerful  and  effective,  rending  the 
adamantine  barrier,  and  shaking  down  the  overwhelming 
slides.  The  Cascades  are  not  probably  formed  of  any 
portion  of  the  supposed  immense  slide,  nor  by  the  up- 
heaving of  the  rocks  beneath  by  an  earthquake ;  but 
it  seems  reasonable  to  suppose  that  this  stern  barrier 
occupied  anciently  the  same  position,  and  that  the  river 
had  to  climb  over  it  in  order  to  follow  its  new  channel. 
But,  leaving  these  thoughts  to  the  scientific,  what  say 
you  to  a  visit  to  this  little  world  ?  To  see  the  "  works 
of  God,  what  desolation  he  hath  made  in  the  earth." 

Embarked  on  the  placid  waters,  we  emerge  from 
between  two  almost  naked  mountains,  six  miles  above 
the  Cascades.  "  I-ak !  wake  Sci-yah,"  (turn  water,) 
cries  the  man  at  the  stern,  "  quick,  the  falls  are  near." 
Away  we  fly,  might  and  main.  "  These  men  are  ex- 
pert with  a  paddle."    Turn  now  your  eye  to  the  right, 

9* 


f 

m 

1 

'1- 

%  M 

202 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


on  the  mount  we  have  just  past.  It  has  something  of 
the  sugar-loaf  form.  It  is  called  the  '*  Old  Man,"  and 
that  opposite  the  "  Old  Woman."  There  they  have 
stood  for  ages,  witnesses  of  the  power  and  wrath  of 
'*  Tal-i-paz,"  an  imaginary  god  of  various  tribes  in  this 
country.  By  him,  for  some  misconduct,  they  were 
changed  into  these  mountains,  and  received  the  names 
they  now  bear.  That  island  on  our  left  is  a  mile  above 
the  rapids.  We  must  keep  near  the  north  side  to  avoid 
the  draft  toward  the  falls.  "  How  they  roar !"  Here 
are  several  small  islands — we  shoot  past  them  like  an 
arrow.  The  channel  between  the  shore  and  this  nether 
islet  is  dry,  and  we  must  pass  inside  of  it.  "  Keep 
near  the  land."  "  Close  nan-ich — Look  out."  A  little 
below  we  disembark,  and  the  Indians  run  down  to  the 
head  of  the  portage.  "  See  them !"  There  is  no  danger, 
they  will  strike  into  the  back  current,  and  land  in  that 
small  bay.  "  Wake  rae-si-kah  quos  ? — ^Were  you  not 
afraid  ? "  "  No,  we  are  men."  We  now  carry  baggage 
and  canoe  more  than  half  a  mile.  The  Indians  back 
heavy  loads,  confined  by  a  strap  over  their  foreheads. 
From  two  to  ten  men  will  manage  the  canoe,  according 
to  its  size.  They  turn  it  over,  and  take  it  bottom  up, 
on  their  shoulders.  While  this  is  going  on,  we  do 
well  to  keep  in  mind  that  the  company  around  will 
bear  considerable  watching ;  for  what  General  Jackson 
says  is  true,  "  Indians  will  steal ;"  and  this  statement 
has  often  been  proved  correct  in  this  very  place,  by 
many  witnesses,  and  to  the  writer's  certain  knowledge, 
annoyance,  and  injury. 

Passing  along  the  portage,  we  find  a  rough,  sidling, 
nsffrow,  rocky  path,  sometimes  undermined  by  the 
rising  waters,  and  at  others  blocked  up  with  the  broken 
fragments  of  the  contiguous  bluff.  Midway  we  halt, 
amidst  the  deafening  roar  of  the  Cascades,  as  they 
dash  their  yielding  billows  on  the  steadfast  rocks.  It 
is  over  one  hundred  yards  across,  and  juresents  a  rapidly- 
declining,  irregular  sheet  of  snow-white  water,  oeau- 
tiful,  grand,  sublime.      ,.. 


great 
rapid, 
on  ou 
swep 
of  th( 
the 


■-^^■■i 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


203 


"'^  At  flood,  the  view  is  very  different;  the  current  from 
the  two  opposite  sides  then  meet  at  an  angle  here, 
heaping  up  the  water  mid-channel,  in  a  turnpike  form, 
where  it  is  less  broken  than  toward  the  shores,  and  runs 
with  great  rapidity.  Leaving  this  scene  of  grandeur, 
one-fourth  of  a  mile  brings  us  to  the  lower  end  of  the 
portage,  where  we  re-embark.  But  first,  the  canoe  car- 
riers mu't  be  paid, — "  Powder  and  ball,"  four  charges 
each.  Now  buy  a  salmon  for  supper.  "  Close  o-koke — 
That  is  good."  It  will  weigh  fifteen  pounds.  In  descend- 
ing, we  shall  find  the  current  strong,  and  sometimes  ra- 
pid, about  five  miles.  At  the  first  rapid,  during  flood  the 
boisterous  breakers  present  a  fearful  aspect,  and  with  the 
greedy  whirlpools  threaten  destruction  to  every  daring 
adventurer  among  them.  Yet  in  their  wildest  mood, 
the  light  canoe  rushes  through  them  and  shuns  each 
crest  and  whirl  in  safety.  But  in  low  water,  as  now, 
there  is  no  danger.  The  crew  know  their  business. 
"  Sit  still,  sir ;  you  need  not  be  alarmed.  Those 
whirlers,  and  while  caps  ahead,  have  between  them 
smooth  water,  you  see."  "  Close  nan-ich  a-lip  ! — Look 
out  well  ahead  !  Paddle  hard  !"  Now  we  move  gently 
down  to  the  middle  rapid,  and  at  this  stage  we  find  the 
water  quite  smooth.  But  it  is  a  place  of  great  danger 
when  the  river  is  high,  and  then  a  portage  is  made  on 
the  north  side  back  of  that  hill  which  thrusts  its  rocky 
point  down  to  the  edge  of  the  water.  Generally  in 
descending,  however,  both  boats  and  canoes  run  the  rapid ; 
but  at  great  risk,  as  they  are  sometimes  overwhelmed 
with  the  raging  billows,  and  the  lives  of  their  crews 
greatly  endangered.  We  now  proceed  down  to  the  lower 
rapid,  which  lies  below  the  large  island  we  are  passing 
on  our  left ;  we  must  keep  near  this,  to  avoid  being 
swept  away  into  the  dangerous  water  on  the  other  side 
of  the  rapid.  It  was  there  that  Mr.  David  Leslie,  of 
the  Oregon  Mission,  with  Mrs.  White,  so  narrowly 
escaped  a  watery  grave.  However,  we  must  not  run 
too  near  the  island,  but  keep  toward  the  middle  and 
thus  avoid  the  dangers  on  either  hand.    East  of  us  is 


204 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Strawberry  Island;  where  in  June  we  might  regale 
ourselves  on  its  welcome  dainties.  Suppose  we  land 
there,  take  supper,  and  encamp  for  the  night.  Reach- 
ing the  shore,  we  take  out  lading,  and  haul  up  our 
canoe  and  make  all  secure  in  a  snug  pile;  for  you 
know  what  Jackson  says,  and  in  case  of  rain,  cover  it 
with  an  oilcloth.  Now  one  of  the  crew  strikes  fire, 
others  dress  and  wash  the  salmon  and  potatoes,  and 
some  scatter,  and  collect  fuel.  Soon  we  encircle  a 
blazing  fire,  with  a  large  camp  kettle  full  of  potatoes 
and  salmon  suspended  over  it  from  three  sticks  lashed 
together  at  the  top  and  set  astride  the  fire.  As  the 
smoke  disagrees  with  our  eyes  standing,  we  will  sit 
down.  Here  are  some  stones  handy.  Now  being 
seated,  take  a  survey  of  the  crew ;  dressed  in  substan- 
tial striped  cotton  shirts,  one  has  a  pair  of  good  cotton 
corduroy  pants  in  addition,  and  another  has  an  old 
capean,  which  he  wears  wrong  side  out.  See  how 
cheerful  they  all  are — over  the  breakers  in  safety,  well 
warmed  before  a  blazing  fire,  and  close  to  a  good 
supper.  Now  they  boast  of  their  courage  and 
skill.  "  Now-it-kah  mah-sach-e  chuk — The  water  was 
very  bad."  "  Weke  quos  en-si-kah — We  were  not 
.afraid."  "  Hi-as  en-si-kah  tum-tune — Our  hearts  are 
large.  We  are  men  !"  Let  me  spread  a  cloth.  This 
chest  contains  povisions,  to  which  we  will  add  a 
little  more  out  of  the  camp  kettle — soon  on  our  table 
you  observe  knives,  forks,  and  spoons,  tin  basins 
and  tin  plates.  Here  comes  the  salmon.  The  crew 
have  turned  out  their  part,  you  see,  on  a  few  clean 
branches  and  leaves  of  the  willow,  which  they  have 
spread  down,  and  which  answer  the  purpose  of  a  table 
and  its  outfit.  It  is  our  practice  to  say  grace  at  meals, 
and  it  is  for  this  that  they  are  waiting. 

"  O  Soh-ole  Ish-tam-ah,  e-toke-te  mi-kah ;  tow-e-ah 
e-toke-te-itl-hul-am  mi-hah  minch-e-lute  co-pah  en-sai- 
kah.  Ka-dow  quon-sim  mincht-cah-meet  en-sai-kah. 
Um-in-sheet-ah  con-a-wa  e-toke-ta  co-pah  mi-kah  e- 
me-han,  Jesus  Christ,  amen  !"      iagfm%  tsditiit 


w 


^■ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


205 


^*  O  God,  thou  art  good,  this  good  food  thou  hast 
given  to  us.  In  like  manner  always  kindly  look  upon 
us,  and  give  us  all  good  things,  for  the  sake  of  thy  oon, 
Jesus  Christ,  amen !" 

Now  we  will  use  knives  and  forks,  while  they  employ 
their  fingers.  They  will  soon  take  care  of  the  solid 
part  of  their  supper,  and  then  attack  the  broth,  with 
clam  shells  for  spoons.  Supper  ended,  we  will  pitch 
our  tent.  It  covers  a  space  of  eight  feet  every  way. 
The  ridge  is  a  pole  six  feet  long,  having  a  support  un- 
der each  end  of  the  same  length.  For  our  bed  we  will 
break  some  willows  and  get  some  crass,  and  laying 
these  down,  smoothly  cover  them  wiui  mats,  and  then 
our  blankets  will  keep  us  warm,  and  we  shall  rest  with- 
out feathers  very  well.  We  will  now  have  prayers. 
The  Lord  has  brought  us  safely  through  the  dangers  of 
the  day.  Let  us  not  forget  his  benefits,  let  us  praise 
him,  and  pray  unto  him.  Read  the  nineteenth  I^salm. 
"  The  heavens  declare  thy  glory,  and  the  firmament 
showeth  thy  handy-work ;  day  unto  day  uttereth  speech, 
and  night  unto  night  showeth  knowledge,"  and  the  rest. 

**  In  reason's  ear  they  all  rejoice, 
And  utter  forth  a  glorious  voice, 
For  ever  singing  as  they  shine, 
The  hand  that  made  us  is  divine." 

"  A-ka  eglah-lam  en-si-kah — Now  let  us  sing." 

HYMN.  TRANSLATED. 


1.  Ak-ah  eg-lah-lam  en-si-kah 
Mi-kah  ish-tam-ah  em-e-hol-ew 
Kup-et  mi-kam  toke-ta  mi-mah 
Mi-kah  quon-e-sim  ka-dow 
Mi-kah  ek-ah-tlah  gum-ohah 
Mi-kah  dow-ah  gum-e  oh 
Kon-a-wa  e-toke-ta  ten-mah 
Mi-kah  an-kut-e  gum-toh 

2.  Mi-kah  minch-ah-koke  en-si-kah 
An-kut-e  yuk-iun-a-lah 
Kon-a-wa  e-dinch-ah-gu-it  quah 
Quon-sim  po-nan-a-kow 

Mi-kah  gum-inch-e-lute  e-me-han 
Yok-ah  waw-wot  gach-ow-eet 
Uk-ah  en-si-kah  quot-Ianch-ke-hah 
Mi-kam  tok«-ta  GAn-n«o>«sb. 


1.  Here  we  now  unite  in  singing 
Glory,  Lord,  unto  thy  name, 
Only  good  and  worthy  praising. 
Thou  art  always,  Lord,  the  same. 
Of  the  sun  thou  art  Creator, 
And  the  light  was  made  by  thee. 
All  things  good,  yea,  every  creature, 
At  the  first  thou  mad'st  to  be. 

2.  We,  O  Lord,  are  all  thy  children, 
In  the  past  we  wicked  were, 

We  were  all  most  deeply  wretched, 
Always  blind  and  in  despair ; 
Thou  didst  give  thy  Son  our  Saviour, 
He  to  us  instruction  gave, 
Knowing  this,  we  now  are  happy. 
Thou  art  good  and  thoa  wiH  i«v«. 


if  rn 


>* 


#' 


'^ 


206 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


After  a  season  of  prayer,  in  which  some  of  the  crew 
join  in  their  native  tongue,  we  repair  to  our  tent ;  and 
they  wrap  themselves  in  their  blankets,  and  lying  down 
near  the  fire,  soon  fall  asleep.  How  welcome  now 
is  "nature's  sweet  restorer." 


•I';  ■.;. 


'  »      .fv> 


.%Si» 


'M^^fl 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Missionii  of  the  American  fioard  and  others — A  monomaniac  burned  to 
death — Introduction  of  a  printing  pre^s,  and  the  publication  of  books  in  the 
native  tongues— Children  drowned — Indians  form  a  civil  compact — ^Hud« 
son  Ba^  Company's  express — Catholics  establish  a  mission — Two  Scotch 
naturalists  drowned — Mr.  Pambeam  thrown  from  his  horse  and  killed— A 
body  o{  emigrants  settle  in  the  country. 

The  missions  of  the  American  Board  and  others, 
with  some  miscellanies,  may  be  properly  introduced 
here,  and  then  we  may  resume  the  narrative. 

The  arrival  of  the  first  missionaries  in  Oregon  in 
1834  was  a  new  era  in  ils  history  ;  and  from  that  time 
it  became  a  topic  of  much  interest  to  many  in  the 
United  States,  as  a  promising  field  for  additional  Chris- 
tian effort,  and  others  were  found  ready  to  follow  in  the 
work.  Among  these  was  the  Rev.  Samuel  Parker,  of 
the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign 
Missions,  who  was  sent  out  to  explore  the  country  for 
missionary  purposes,  and  who  has  published  an  account 
of  his  tour,  which  contains  much  valuable  information, 
while  it  greatly  overrates  the  number  of  the  Indians, 
and  sets  too  high  an  estimate  on  their  character.  Pros- 
pective temporal  gain  will  make  them  ardent  profes- 
sional friends  and  serious  hearers  in  the  absence  of  all 
higher  motives,  as  eveiy  man  will  affirm  who  has  had 
a  long  acquaintance  with  them.  Mr.  P.  saw  many  of 
the  tribes  who  inhabit  on  the  Columbia,  and  was  every- 
where agreeably  received,  and  surprised  by  the  ap- 
parent anxiety  which  many  manifested  to  have  the 
gospel  brought  among  them.    In  November,  1835,  he 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


207 


▼isited  the  mission  besun  the  preceding  year  at  the 
Walamet,  at  the  time  the  writer  was  at  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  His  call  was  more  than  welcome  to  Messrs. 
Jason  Lee  and  Cyrus  Shepard,  in  tlieir  early  and  ardu- 
ous toil,  exiled  as  they  were  from  the  society  of  other 
Christian  friends.  Having  completed  his  tour  of  ob- 
servation in  Oregon,  Mr.  P.  sailed  to  the  Sandwich 
Islands  on  his  way  to  the  United  States.  Another  gen- 
tleman, devoted  to  the  interests  of  this  country,  was 
Dr.  Marcus  Whitman,  associate  of  Mr.  Parker,  and 
who  accompanied  him  on  his  way  as  far  as  the  Ameri- 
can traders  and  trappers*  rendezvous  in  the  mountains, 
and  then  returned  to  the  States  to  obtain  men  and 
means  to  establish  a  mission  among  the  Nez  Perc6 
Indians,  residing  on  the  Snake  River  from  one  hundred 
to  two  hundred  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Co- 
lumbia. To  this,  perhaps  the  most  important  tribe  in 
Oregon,  he  came  in  1836,  having  crossed  the  moun- 
tains with  his  wife,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Spalding,  and  Mr. 
Gray.  These  two  ladies  are  the  first  white  females 
who  came  to  Oregon,  and  the  first  who  adventured 
across  the  American  desert,  the  pioneers  of  many  who 
have  since  gone  with  their  husbands  to  the  far,  far 
west.  These  labourers  commenced  two  stations,  one 
among  the  Kinse  Indians,  at  Wai-let-pu,  on  that  small 
tributary  of  the  Columbia,  the  Wallah-wallah,  twenty- 
five  miles  from  its  mouth,  where  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company^s  fort  of  that  name  is  located ;  and  the  other 
on  the  Clear  Water,  a  branch  of  the  Snake  River,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  eastward  of  Wai-let-pu, 
among  the  Nez  Perces.  Mr.  Spalding,  who  is  a  minis- 
ter, had  charge  of  the  latter,  and  Dr.  Whitman  of  the 
former  station. 

They  first  erected  dwelling  houses,  chiefly  with  their 
own  hands,  and,  as  it  was  necessary  to  their  support, 
they  commenced  as  early  as  possible  to  till  the  ground, 
in  order  to  raise  their  own  supplies  of  provisions.  Till 
they  were  able  to  do  this,  they  obtained  them  from  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company,  chiefly  from  Fort  Colville, 


# 


w 


208 


* 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


** 


one  of  the  company^s  trading  posts  situated  on  the 
Columbia  River,   more   than  two  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  distant,  in  a  direction  nearly  north-east  of  Fort 
,j,,  Wallah-wallah,   and  about   twenty  miles  below  the 

Lf   f  mouth  of  Clarke's  River.     It  was  a  long  distance  to 

transport  wheat  and  flour  and  potatoes  on  horseback  to 
eat  and  plant.  Besides  these  various  labours,  they  de- 
voted themselves  to  the  acquirement  )f  the  Indian  lan- 
guage, and  embraced  every  means  in  their  power  to 
give  instruction  to  the  dark  hearts  around  them.  Such 
was  the  apparent  encouragement  they  met,  and  so  ex- 
tensive the  field  of  usefulness  before  them,  and  the  de- 
mand for  increased  missionaiy  efforts  so  urgent,  that 
in  1837  Mr.  Gray  returned  to  the  United  Stales  tc  get 
additional  help.  He  took  some  of  the  Nez  Perce  In- 
dians with  him,  and  some  horses  designed  to  transport 
the  new  reinforcement  over  the  mountains,  and  to  save 
the  expense  of  buying  them  on  the  confines  of  Mis- 
souri. He  went  part  of  the  way  in  company  with  Mr. 
Ermetinger,  a  gentleman  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Com- 
pany, who  led  a  party  that  year  to  the  American  tra- 
ders' and  trappers'  rendezvous  in  the  mountains.  From 
the  rendezvous  he  proceeded  quite  alone  as  far  as  the 
forks  of  the  Platte,  where,  being  attacked  by  a  party 
of  the  Sioux,  he  was  wounded,  made  a  prisoner,  and 
his  Indians  were  slain.  After  suffering  various  abuses 
and  insults,  and  being  robbed  of  most  of  his  effects,  he 
was  permitted  to  proceed  on  his  journey,  glad  to  escape 
y  with  his  life ;  and  at  length,  after  suffering  many  addi- 
tional privations  and  hardships,  he  got  through  in  safety. 
In  1838  Mr.  Gray  with  his  lady  recrossed  the  moun- 
tains again  to  Oregon,  accompanied  by  three  new 
labourers  and  their  consorts.  Rev.  Messrs.  Eales, 
Walker,  and  Smith.  A  new  station  was  now  com- 
menced among  the  Nez  Perces  above  Clear  Water,  by 
Mr.  Smith,  assisted  by  Mr.  Cornelius  Rogers,  who 
had  been  some  time  with  the  Indians,  migrating  with 
them  from  place  to  place,  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  , 
their  customs  and  language,  with  the  sole  object  of  oene- 


rsi 


# 


,f- 


a  the 

fifty 

Fort 
V  the 
ice  to 
ick  to 
ey  de- 
in  lan- 
der to 

Such 
so  ex- 
he  de- 
it,  that 
I  tc  get 
rce  In- 
ansport 
to  save 
)f  Mis- 
ith  Mr. 
I  C  Om- 
an tra- 

From 

as  the 
party 
ler,  and 

abuses 
sets,  he 

escape 
addi- 

safety. 

moun- 

new 

Sales, 

com- 

ater,  by 
,  who 

ng  with 

dge  of 

if  Dene- 


'y 


;e 


BV 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


209 


filing  them  by  facilitating  the  labours  of  the  missiona- 
ries in  their  evangelization'.  No  one  in  the  country 
was  so  well  qualified  as  Mr.  Rogers  for  this  depart- 
ment, as  his  success  sufiSciently  proved.  Messrs. 
Eales  and  Walker  located  themselves  to  the  northward, 
among  the  Spokan  Indians,  where  they  have  laboured 
under  many  privations,  but  with  much  perseverance, 
and  with  some  success. 

In  1837,  or  '38,  Rev.  Mr.  Clark,  Mr.  Littlejohn,  and 
Mr.  Smith,  Presbyterian  self-supporting  missionaries, 
and  their  ladies,  came  over  the  mountains,  designing  to 
sustain  themselves  in  some  part  of  the  mission  field, 
independently  of  the  patronage  of  any  organized  board. 
In  1839  Mr.  Griffin  and  Mr.  Munger,  and  their  wives, 
came  over  with  similar  intentions.  After  various  trials 
to  carry  out  their  plans  of  benevolent  action,  all  which 
proved  abortive,  they  abandoned  the  undertaking  as 
hopeless. 

In  the  spring  of  1840,  Mr.  Grifiin,  with  his  wife, 
and  an  Indian  for  a  guide,  and  several  horses,  packed 
with  an  outfit  to  begin  an  independent  mission  among 
the  Snake  Indians,  where  he  intended  to  plant,  and 
sow,  and  live  by  the  sweat  of  his  brow,  and  to  Chris- 
tianize and  civilize  the  natives,  left  the  Clear  Water 
station,  where  he  had  passed  the  winter,  and  set  off"  on 
his  perilous  journey  of  several  hundred  miles.  His 
way  lay  across  high  mountains  north  of  the  Snake 
River,  from  which  the  snow  had  not  yet  dissolved. 
After  several  days  of  toiling  forward  in  their  rugged 
way,  they  were  forsaken  by  their  guide,  who,  not  relish- 
ingthe  prospect  ahead,  returned  back. 

They,  however,  pushed  on,  forcing  their  path  through 
mountains  covered  with  snow,  sometimes  several  feet 
deep;  leading  and  driving  their  heavy-laden  beasts, 
worn  with  toil,  and  pinched  with  huncer.  Arrived  in 
the  valleys,  torrents,  like  themselves  from  the  Oregon 
Alps,  dashed  along  to  impede  and  prevent  their  pro- 
gress. Some  of  these  they  had  to  trace  far  toward 
their  source  to  find  a  ford,  or  make  bridges  to  pass 


# 


mm 


4i 


■J* 


eio 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


"*!^ 
% 


them.  After  running  innumerable  hazards  and  hair- 
breadth escapes,  they  arrived  at  Fort  Boisais,  on  the 
Snake  River,  where  they  were  received  with  every  kind 
attention  by  Mr.  Payeth,  the  gentleman  in  charge  of 
that  post.  The  length  of  time  which  had  been  occu- 
pied in  their  journey,  the  sufferings  they  had  endured, 
the  uncertainty  of  finding  a  suitable  location  for  the 
purpose  they  had  proposed,  and  perhaps  the  fear  that 
they  should  not,  after  all,  be  able  to  sustain  themselves, 
unpatronized  and  done,  led  them  to  abandon  any  fur- 
ther attempts,  and  they  returned  again  to  Dr.  Whitman  s 
station  at  Wailetpu. 

Fort  Boisais  is  a  trading  post  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  situated  about  half  way  between  Fort  Hall 
and  Fort  Wallah- wallah.  It  was  built  soon  after  the 
operations  of  Captain  Wyeth  were  begun,  in  1834, 
and  designed  to  command  the  fur  trade  in  that  section, 
as  a  rival  of  Fort  Hall.  It  is  a  parallelogram  one  hun- 
dred feet  on  a  side,  with  adobic  walls,  enclosing  a  store 
and  some  dwelling  houses. 

Leaving  Wailet,  Mr.  Griffin  proceeded  to  Vancouver ; 
and  after  spending  there  a  considerable  part  of  the  win- 
ter of  1840,  went  to  the  Walamet  Valley,  where  he 
was  still  living  in  1843.     While  at  Vancouver,  in  Jan., 
1840,  leaving  Mrs.  Griffin,  he  accompanied  one  of  the 
settlers  on  a  visit  to  the  Walamet.     Some  way  above 
the  falls  he  left  the  canoe,  it  being  unusually  cold,  to 
walk  a  little  along  the  shore,  designing  to  embark  again 
after  going  a  short  distance.    The  path  he  took,  how- 
ever, did  not  return  back  to  the  river ;  but  gradually 
diverged  more  and  more  from  it.     At  the  same  time 
the  snow  was  falling  very  fast,  (an  uncommon  occur- 
rence here,)  so  that  his  way  and  course  were  entirely 
lost.     Still  he  went  on  over  many  miles  of  prairie,  till, 
tired  and  hungry,  he  stopped  under  a  large  fir  tree  to 
rest,  perhaps  to  die  with  the  cold  and  hunger,  without 
a  fire,  without  a  blanket.     If  he  could  make  a  fire,  there 
was  still  hope.     In  his  pocket  he  found  a  stone  that  he 
had  picked  up  in  his  journey,  before  described,  in  the 


m 


m 
moid 


■»y 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


211 


Snake  country,  among  the  mountains, — succeeded  in 
kindling  a  fire  from  a  spark  smitten  from  that  stone, 
and  thus  averted  an  inevitable  death.  Next  day  he  con- 
tinued his  tramp  across  the  dreary  plain,  till  at  length 
he  became  entirely  exhausted,  thought  he  could  pro- 
ceed no  further,  gave  up  all  hope,  and  lay  down,  as  he 
expected,  to  rise  no  more  !  to  die  alone !  to  leave  his 
wife  a  lonely  widoWf  in  utter  ignorance  of  his  tragical 
end.  While  his  thoughts  were  thus  absorbing  his 
spirits,  the  sound  of  human  voices  fell  on  his  ear.  Sud- 
denly hope  revived ;  and  strengthened  anew,  he  hasted 
to  the  spot.  It  was  a  lone  wigwam,  hidden  by  the 
bushes  around  it.  Here  was  relief!  The  poor  in- 
mates had  fire  and  food.  They  shared  it  with  the  lost 
stranger.  The  next  day  they  conducted  him  to  the 
mission  at  the  Walamet,  about  ten  miles,  where  he  was 
gladly  welcomed,  fears  having  been  entertained  that  he 
had  perished.  His  feet  had  been  injured  so  much  by 
the  cold  that  he  could  scarcely  walk,  and  several  days 
passed  before  he  could  do  so  without  great  pain. 

Mr.  Munger,  who  was  associated  with  Mr.  Griffin 
in  coming  to  Oregon,  spent  some  time  with  Dr.  Whit- 
man at  Warlotgos,  and  in  1841  went  to  the  Walamet. 
He  was  an  ingenious  mechanic,  but  was  destroyed  by 
monomania.  Under  the  influence  of  this  disease,  or 
erroTf  if  the  term  seems  more  applicable,  he  appeared 
to  think  that  Christ  would  work  a  miracle  to  convince 
the  people  that  certain  peculiar  religious  notions  he  en- 
tertained were  from  God.  So  going  into  his  shop,  he 
fastened  one  hand  with  a  nail  to  the  side  of,  or  above 
the  fire-place,  and  hung  himself  into  the  fire.  It  was 
in  the  evening ;  and  he  was  so  badly  burnt  before  he 
was  discovered  that  he  died  within  three  days.  But 
before  this  he  seemed  deeply  sensible  of  his  error,  and 
deeply  to  repent  of  it.  His  widowed  wife  and  orphan 
child  were  thus  left  as  aliens  in  a  strange  land. 

Messrs.  Clarke,  Smith,  and  Littlejohn,  went  to  reside 
in  the  Walamet  in  the  autumn  ot  1841.  They  left 
most  of  their  little  effects  at  Fort  Wallah-wallah,  to  be 


ia.  HJ 


••-K< 


212 


TBN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Torwarded  down  to  Fort  Vancouver  in  a  boat,  while 
they  made  the  overland  journey  with  horses  to  the 
Walamet.  But  the  fort  accidentally  taking  fire  before 
the  goods  were  moved,  nearly  all  they  had  deposited 
there  was  an  entire  loss,  and  to  them  a  heavy  and 
irreparable  one*.  They  however  found  many  sympa- 
thizing friends,  who  were  happy  to  afford  them  some 
relief. 

To  return  to  the  interior  missions.  In  1 839  Mr.  E.  O. 
Hall  arrived  in  the  Columbia  River,  from  the  Sandwich 
Islands,  with  a  printing  press.  He  was  accompanied 
by  his  lady,  with  the  hope  that  the  voyage  and  climate 
might  have  a  favourable  influence  on  her  enfeebled 
health.  Mr.  H.  is  a  printer,  and  a  member  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  mission.  He  set  up  the  press  at  the  Clear 
Water  station  ;  and  some  elementary  books  have  been 
published  in  the  Nez  Perce  tongue ;  and  recently  also 
m  .the  Spokan,  by  Mr.  Eales  and  Mr.  Walker. 

The  station  which' was  occupied  by  Mr.  Smith,  above 
Clear  Water,  was  left  in  1841 ;  and  Mr.  S.  sailed  to  the 
Islands,  where  he  is  now  employed  in  labouring  for  the 
salvation  of  the  natives  of  Hawaii.  At  Clear  Water  a 
saw-mill  and  a  grist-mill  have  been  erected  ;  and  the 
Indians  have  engaged  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  with 
much  success.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Littlejohn  came  from 
Walamet  to  this  station  in  1842;  and  soon  after  were 
called  to  the  painful  trial  of  parting  with  their  little  son, 
an  only  child,  who  w^s  ^pvrned  near  the  mill.  He 
was  soon  taken  out  of  the  Wliter,  and  every  means  used 
to  restore  him,  but  the  vital  spark  no  more  returned. 
A  similar  painful  providence  nad  also  previously  oc- 
curred in  the  family  of  Dr.  Whitman,  in  the  year  1838. 
Their  only  child,  a  daughter,  two  years  old,  going  to 
the  river  a  few  yards  from  the  house,  fell  in,  and  was 
drowned.  It  has  been  the  lot  of  few  persons  so  cir- 
cumstanced to  be  thus  painfully  bereft.  She  was  a 
child  of  peculiar  promise,  and  could  speak  both  the 
English  and  Indian  tongues  considerably. 

At  Hailetpoo  a  saw-mill  and  a  grist-mill  were  in  ope- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


213 


were 


so  cir- 
was  a 
>th  the 


ration  in  1842 ;  but  they  were  soon  after  accidentally 
set  on  fire,  as  was  supposed,  and  destroyed,  with  a  large 
amount  of  grain  whicn  was  stored  in  them  at-  the  time, 
llie  Indians  here,  as  well  as  at  Clear  Water  station, 
huve  made  considerable  progress'  in  tillage,  some  of 
them  raisiiig  corn  and  other  supplies  nearly  in  sufficient 
quantities  to  support  them.  They  possess  large  herds 
of  horses;  and  have  some  hogs,  sheep,  and  cattle,  which 
they  have  recently  obtained  from  the  whites.  This  is 
also  the  case  with  the  Key.  Perces,  at  ^lear  Water 
station.  They  are  more  numerous  than  the  Kinse; 
and  the  women  have  succeeded  in  the  manufacture  of 
some  coarse  woollen  cloths.  The  efforts  of  the  mis- 
sionaries in  schools  have  been  very  encouraging,  a 
great  desire  to  learn  being  general,  and  progress  rapid. 
In  1842  Dr.  Whitman  visited  the  United  States,  to 
obtain  further  assistance,  in  order  to  strengthen  the 
efforts  that  had  already  been  made.  About  the  same 
time  Mr.  Gray  went  to  reside  in  the  Walamet;  and  Mr. 
Gerger,  mentioned  in  a  former  chapter,  supplied  in  the 
absence  of  Dr.  Whitman  his  place  at  Wailetpu.  Mrs. 
Whitman,  whose  health  had  suffered  much  for  some 
time  before  the  doctor  left,  spent  the  following  winter 
at  the  Dalls,  with  the  resident  missionary  families  at 
that  station.  In  1843  Dr.  W.  returned  agam  to  Oregon, 
and  resumed  his  labours.  During  his  absence  the  Nez 
Percys  and  also  the  Kinses  had  instituted  laws,  and 
appointed  a  head  chief  over  each  of  the  tribes ;  thus 
forming  a  kind  of  civil  compact  to  regulate  their  inter- 
course among  themselves,  and  also  toward  their  white 
neighbours  and  the  surrounding  tribes.  Some  of  these 
have  taken  on  them  the  profession  of  Christianity ;  and 
the  truths  inculcated  by  the  missionaries  are  exerting 
a  wide  influence  on  the  whole  mass,  and  in  some  a 
deep  and  regenerating  power.  Truly,  their  "  work  of 
faith  and  labour  of  love  "  have  not  been  in  vain.  Thouch 
several  things  have  transpired  to  put  their  faith  into  the 
furnace,  and  they  have  endured  much  personal  abuse 
from  those  whose  good  they  have  sought,  and  from 


li''       •  I  I'  HI.  i? 


•s» 


-s-..- 


214 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


^i 


'It. 


whom  they  deserved  good  and  not  evil, — ^yet  still  have 
they  hoped  in  God,  and  he  has  strengthened  them  to 
go  on  and  faint  not,  and  to  see  some  fruit  of  their  toil 
for  his  "  name's  sake."  Should  not  anything  occur  to 
drive  them  from  their  work,  lasting  good  must  result  to 
the  tribes  for  whose  evangelization  they  have  devoted 
their  lives.  There  are  grounds,  however,  to  fear  that 
Itostilities  between  them  and  the  whites  may  yet  com- 
mence, and  this  would  break  up  the  mission.  From 
110  other  qu^er  is  any  danger  to  be  justly  apprehended. 
'And  may  the  God  of  missions  (will  every  Christian  pray) 
f  avert  this  threatened  curse,  to  the  end  that  his  word 
may  accomplish  all  "  his  good  pleasure"  in  the  salva- 
tion of  these  tribes,  and  may  his  servants  there  prosper! 
This  brief  outline  of  the  missions  of  the  American 
Board  must  suffice  for  this  work ;  and  the  vtrriter  will 
close  this  chapter  with  some  items  of  miscellaneous 
matter.  We  will  begin  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany's Express.  This  is  a  communication  by  which 
despatches  are  sent  annually  from  Vancouver  to  Cana- 
dS^  It  leaves  on  the  20th  of  March,  and  proceeds  by 
v/stei  up  the  Columbia  to  Fort  Colville,  and  then  to 
the  head  waters  of  that  river,  where  they  leave  their 
boats,  make  a  portage  of  the  mountains,  proceed  to  the 
Saskatchawan  River,  embark  in  boats,  and  follow  it 
to  Lake  Winnipeg,  and  then  proceed  to  Fort  York,  on 
Hudson's  Bay ;  wliere  it  intersects  a  counter  express 
from  Lachine,  near  Montreal,  in  Lower  Canada,  and 
which  leaves  every  April  for  the  Columbia,  where  it 
generally  arrives  about  the  25th  of  October.  By  this 
express  we  were  favoured  with  an  opportunity  to  for- 
ward letters  to  our  friends,  and  to  receive  letters  from 
them,  and  seldom  did  the  express  arrive  without  some 
such  messenger  with  tidings  of  home.  In  the  express 
of  1838,  arrived  Messrs.  Dimars  and  Blancnette, 
French  Canadian  Catholic  priests.  Mr.  B.  took  up  his 
residence  in  the  Walamet  settlement,  in  chariic  .  t  the 
Catholic  portion  of  the  residents ;  wherQ  a  church  had 
been  commenced  some  time  before,  and  was  nearly 


Lhave 

em  to 

ir  toil 

;cur  to 

suit  to 

evoted 

IT  that 

t  com- 
From 

tended. 

n  pray) 

s  word 

)  salva- 

rosper! 

nencan 

ter  will 

laneous 

f  Com- 

f  which 

p  Cana- 

eeds  by 
len  to 

ve  their 
to  the 
ilow  it 

''ork,  on 
express 
a,  and 
here  it 
iJy  this 
to  for- 
rs  from 
it  some 
express 
ncnette, 
c  up  his 
;  t  the 
rch  had 
nearly 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


215 


ready  for  service.  Here  he  has  passed  most  of  his 
time ;  but  occasionally  visited  Vancouver  in  the  per- 
formance of  his  official  duties  among  the  Catholic  ser- 
vants in  the  employment  of  the  company.  His  asso- 
ciate, Mr.  Dimars,  has  been  chiefly  engaged  in  visiting 
the  different  trading  posts  for  the  same  purpose.  The 
wives  and  families  ot  these  servants  also  demand  much 
of  their  attention,  and  are  a  very  numerous  and  influ- 
ential class.  The  women  are  from  almost  every  tribe 
in  Oregon.  In  1841  they  were  reinforced,  and  a  misr 
sion  was  begun  among  the  Indians  on  Clarke's  River. 
Two  others  arrived  in  1842.  Their  worship  is  estab- 
lished constantly  at  Vancouver.  Schools  and  missions 
were  in  contemplation.  With  the  same  conveyance 
which  brought  them  to  the  country  were  two  Scotch 
gentlemen,  Messrs.  Wallace  and  Banks,  naturalists ; 
but,  sad  to  tell,  they  were  both  drowned  in  one  of  the 
interior  rapids  of  the  Columbia,  between  Fort  Wallah- 
wallah  and  Fort  Colville.  The  boat  was  upset,  and 
from  eight  to  ten  others,  crew  and  passengers,  perished 
with  them.  How  often  did  like  painful  events  remind 
us  of  the  uncertainty  of  life !  We  may  always  say, 
"  In  the  midst  of  life  we  are  in  death  !" 

In  the  year  1840  Mr.  P.  C.  Pambeam,  at  Wallah- 
wallah,  died  very  suddenly,  leaving  a  widow  and  a 
large  family  of  children  to  mourn  his  loss.  To  his 
kindness  the  missionaries  near  him,  not  excluding  the 
writer,  were  much  indebted.  He  was  a  gentleman  of 
very  generous  and  friendly  feelings.  He  was  riding, 
and  the  rope  by  which  he  guided  his  horse,  according 
to  Indian  custom,  slipped  from  the  horse's  mouth,  when 
he  ran  with  him,  bruised  him  very  badly  on  the  saddle, 
and  threw  him  with  great  violence  upon  the  ground. 
He  was  so  badly  injured  that  he  had  to  be  carried  to 
his  house.  Dr.  Whitman,  from  Wailetpu,  was  called 
to  see  him ;  but  all  his  efforts  to  save  him  proved  abor- 
tive, and  a  rapid  mortification  soon  closed  the  painful 
scene.  - ; 

This  year,  1840,  a  large  emigration  of  one  hundred 


i-! 


l->*? 


-■# 


216 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


and  twenty-five  persons,  adults  and  children,  came 
from  Red  River,  which  empties  into  Lake  Winnipeg, 
to  settle  in  Oregon.  They  went  to  Nesqually,  on 
Pugit's  Sound ;  but,  after  spending  a  year,  it  was  found 
that  the  land  was  of  a  very  inferior  quality,  and  that 
they  could  not  subsist  upon  it.  Thus,  after  having 
subjected  themselves  to  many  hardships,  and  privations, 
and  losses,  for  almost  two  years,  they  had  yet  to  remove 
to  the  Walamet  Valley,  as  promismg  to  remunerate 
them  for  their  future  toil,  and  make  them  forget  the 
past.  Accordingly  most  of  them  removed  and  settled 
in  the  Walamet  in  1841-42. 

In  the  next  chapter  we  will  resume  the  account  of 
the  Oregon  Mission.    'i>--^  ,»-."*:. i? 


■■-MA 


CHAPTER  XX. 


■  ■ ,  ^ 


A  reinforcement  to  the  mission  set  out  from  New- York — Incidents  of  the 
vojrage — Arrive  at  the  Sandwich  Islands — Occurrences  there — Reach  As- 
toria— Disappointed  on  finding  that  it  consisted  of  but  three  or  four  houses — 
Voyage  to  Vancouver — Missionaries  appointed  to  their  various  fields  of 
labour — ^Marria^je  of  Rev.  D.  Lee — A  company  of  missionaries  arrive  at 
the  Dalls — Trip  to  Vancouver — Dr.  Richmond's  journey — Two  of  the 
missionaries  set  out  for  Astoria — Return  to  Vancouver — ^fnoidents  of  the 
journey. 

In  1838  the  Rev.  Jason  Lee  arrived  in  the  ITnited 
States  from  Oregon,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a 
reinforcement  to  that  mission,  as  has  been  already 
stated.  After  meeting  with  the  Board  of  Managers  of 
the  Missionary  Society  of  the  M.  E.  Church,  and  sta- 
ting the  wants  of  that  country,  as  it  was  supposed,  and 
the  prospects  of  civilizing  and  Christianizins  the  abori- 
gines of  that  land,  the  authorities  of  the  church  pub- 
lished a  call  in  the  Christian  Advocate  and  Journal  for 
five  missionaries  and  a  number  of  laymen,  such  as 
mechanics,  farmers,  and  physicians,  and  young  ladies 
for  teachers.  This  call  was  promptly  responded  to, 
and  the  Rev.  J.  P.  Richmond,  Gustavus  Mines,  W. 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


217 


came 

ipeg, 

y,  on 

found 

I  that 

laving 

itions, 

smove 

nerate 

et  the 

settled 

int  of 


United 


W.  Kone,  A.  F.  Waller,  and  J.  H.  Frost  and  families, 
and  Mr.  J.  L.  Babcock,  physician,  George  Abernethy, 
W.  W.  Raymond,  H.  B.  Brewer,  L.  H.  Judson,  Jo- 
siah  L.  Parrish,  James  Olley,  H.  Campbell,  and  families, 
and  Miss  M.  T.  Ware,  C.  A.  Clark,  E.  Philips,  A. 
Phelps,  and  O.  Lankton,  stewardess,  were  appointed 
to  return  with  Mr.  Lee,  and  labour,  in  connection  with 
those  already  in  the  field,  for  the  benefit  of  the  souls 
and  bodies  of  the  Indians  of  that  territory.  This  re- 
inforcement, including  Mr.  Lee  and  wife,  consisted  of 
fifty-one  souls,  adults  and  children.  These  all  met  in 
the  city  of  New- York  on  the  1st  of  September,  1839, 
but  were  detained  until  the  9th  of  October,  before  they 
could  take  their  departure,  as  the  ship  employed  for 
the  purpose  of  conveying  them  to  their  destined  field 
of  labour  and  suffering  was  not  in  readiness  ;  and  it  is 
but  just  to  state,  that  during  their  sojourn  in  the  city  of 
New- York,  they  received  every  needed  attention  from 
their  kind  friends  residing  in  that  city.  At  length  the  time 
of  their  departure  arrived,  and  after  the  usual  prelimina- 
ries, which  render  such  scenes  at  all  times  interesting,  but 
particularly  so  on  this  occasion,  as  this  was  the  largest 
company  of  missionaries  that  ever  took  their  departure 
from  the  United  States,  they  entered  on  board  of  the 
ship  Lausanne,  commanded  by  Capt.  T.  Spaulding, 
and  were  towed  out  of  the  harbour  by  a  steamer.  Many 
a  tear  found  its  way  from  the  eyes  of  the  multitude  upon 
the  wharf,  and  many  a  fervent  prayer  reached  the  ear 
of  the  Father  of  all  mercies  in  behalf  of  that  mission 
family,  as  the  vessel  was  being  borne  toward  the 
mighty  troubled  ocean,  and  the  handkerchief  of  the  pas- 
senger was  waving  a  last  adieu  to  friends  on  shore. 

O  the  pain  of  separating  from  parents,  and  brothers, 
and  friends,  with  no  hope  of  meeting  again  until  "  the 
trumpet  shall  sound,  and  the  dead  shall  be  raised  !" 
It  was  under  such  circumstances  that  these  missionaries 
separated  with  their  friends ;  and  yet  there  is  a  pleasure 
accompanying  such  a  pain — a  pleasure  such  as  the 
Christian  only  can  enjoy.    It  originates  in  the  hope  of 

10 


11 


> 


?ik 


218 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


meeting  their  friends  again,  when  the  storms  of  life  shall 
have  subsided,  upon  those  blissful  elevations  where  it 
shall  be  said  unto  them  by  the  King  in  his  glory,  "  Well 
done,  thou  good  and  faithful  servant ;  thou  hast  been 
faithful  over  a  few  things,  I  will  make  thee  ruler  over 
many  things ;"  and  then,  at  his  bidding,  they  shall,  hand 
in  hand,  enter  into  the  joy  of  their  Lord,  never,  never 
more  to  part.  In  the  possession  of  this  hope,  we  trust, 
the  missionaries  looked  for  the  last  time  upon  their 
friends,  when  the  steamer  cast  off  her  hawsers,  and  the 
Lausanne  filled  away  for  Sandy  Hook  ;  but  as  the  wind 
was  unfavourable,  she  came  to  anchor,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  all  things  being  in  our  favour,  except- 
ing the  symptoms  of  sea-sickness,  we  weighed  anchor, 
dismissed  our  pilot,  and  put  out  to  sea. 

On  this  voyage  we  were  accompanied  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Dibble,  a  missionary  to  the  Sandwich  Islands, 
who,  after  having  laboured  in  that  interesting  field 
during  eight  years,  and  havi.ig  been  called  upon  to  bury 
his  companion,  which  left  him  with  two  small  children 
and  a  broken  constitution,  had  returned  to  the  States, 
to  recruit  his  health,  and  visit  the  clvurches,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  advancing  the  cause  of  missions,  and  to  pre- 
pare himself  for  another  season  of  labour  in  the  land  he 
nad  left,  where  were  the  lambs  which  he  had  been 
instrumental  in  gathering  into  the  fold  of  Christ,  and 
where  were  also  the  graves  of  his  friends. 

While  in  the  States  he  had  another  visitation  of 
Divine  Providence,  and  his  youngest  child  was  taken 
away  by  death.  But  previous  to  his  joining  the  Lau- 
sanne, he  was  united,  in  matrimonial  bands,  with  a  very 
excellent  and  intelligent  young  lady  of  Brooklyn,  who 
with  himself  and  little  daughter  constituted  a  very 
pleasant  and  interesting  addition  to  our  very  extensive 
family. 

After  we  got  fairly  under  way,  it  must  have  been 
very  amusing,  and  at  the  same  time  annoying  to  the 
seamen,  to  behold  such  a  motley  group,  lying  on  deck, 
in  every  direction,  and  hanging  over  the  rail ;  heaving 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


219 


fe  shall 
rhere  it 
"  Well 
st  been 
ler  over 
ill,  hand 
ir,  never 
Bve  trust, 
on  their 
,  and  the 
the  wind 
1  the  fol- 
',  except- 
d  anchor, 

the  Rev. 

I  Islands, 
sting  field 
on  to  bury 

II  children 
he  States, 
)r  the  pur- 
id  to  pre- 
16  land  he 

lad  been 
irist,  and 

sitation  of 
was  taken 
the  Lau- 
vith  a  very 
klyn,  who 
ed  a  very 
extensive 

have  been 
ying  to  the 
ig  on  deck, 
il ;  heaving 


with  all  the  energy,  and  to  a  much  more  discordant 
tune,  than  so  many  lusty  sailors  when  weighing  anchor; 
and  they  were  all  so  much  engaged  that  when  tne  dinner 
bell  rang,  there  were  but  two  or  three  out  of  over  fifty 
to  grace  the  table.  This  strange  state  of  things  con- 
tinued for  such  a  length  of  time  that  we  decided  that 
*'  Old  Neptune"  was  not  to  be  satisfied  with  anything 
short  of  all  the  good  provisions  which  had  been  fur- 
nished us  by  our  kind  friends  during  our  sojourn  in  the 
city  of  New- York. 

Seeins  that  the  journal  of  that  voyage  was  published 
in  the  Christian  Advocate  and  Journal,  it  may  be  con- 
sidered superfiuous  for  us  to  give  a  history  of  it  in  this 
work ;  and  as  incidents  of  sea  voyaging  have  become 
so  common,  that  those  who  have  not  read  that  journal, 
even,  might  not  find  such  a  history  interesting.  In 
view  of  these  considerations  we  will  pass  this  subject 
over  with  simply  observing,  that  after  experiencing 
some  rough  weather,  we  arrived  at  Rio  Janeiro  on  the 
9th  of  December,  where  we  put  in  for  recruits.  Here 
we  had  an  interview  with  our  missionaries  who  were 
labouring  for  the  salvation  of  the  Brazilians.  These 
were  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spaulding  and  Mr.  Kidder,  and 
families.  And  we  must  here  mention  that  Mrs.  Kid- 
der was  called  from  this  scene  of  toil  and  privation  to, 
as  we  trust,  a  better  inheritance,  even  a  heavenly,  and 
left  her  husband  and  little  children  to  feel  and  mourn 
her  departure.  As  this  mission  did  not  prove  success- 
ful, probably  in  consequence  of  the  deep-rooted  preju- 
dice against  Protestantism,  the  missionaries  have  since 
been  recalled  from  that  field.      .'.,•;  |* 

Having  obtained  our  supplies,  we  weighed  atichor  on 
the  15th,  and  bore  away  for  Cape  Horn  in  company 
with  the  French  fleet,  who  were  bound  to  Buenos  Ayres 
for  the  purpose  of  blockading  that  port.  We  soon  lost 
sight  of  the  men  of  war,  and  pursued  our  course  with- 
out any  serious  obstruction  until  we  reached  the  Cape 
on  the  10th  of  January.  Here  we  were  met  with  tne 
westerly  winds  from  the  South  Pacific  which  prevail 


;  t 


r  ?. 


i-.i 


■I-  'ti;  *■> 


■'m 


.¥ 


220 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


/ 


in  this  region,  and  generally  prove  a  serious  hinderance 
to  vessels  on  an  outward-bound  voyage :  this  obliged  us 
to  shorten  sail  and  "  lie  to :"  the  wind  being  accom- 
panied with  rain  and  some  sleet,  continued  to  blow  until 
we  drifted  down  to  the  6l8t  degree  of  south  latitude,  and 
we  did  not  succeed  in  doubling  the  Cape  until  after  the 
28th.  During  this  time  we  amused  ourselves  with 
catchins  the  albatross,  that  splendid  sea  fowl  that  in- 
habits tne  region  of  the  Cape.  They  are  often  found 
to  measure  from  twelve  to  nfteen  feet  from  the  tip  of 
one  wing  to  that  of  the  other.  They  are  taken  with 
hook  and  line  in  the  following  manner :  the  hook  being 
baited  with  a  piece  of  fat  pork  and  permitted  to  drift 
astern  of  the  vessel,  attached  to  a  long  line,  is  seized 
by  the  bird,  and  fastens  in  the  crooked  upper  part  of 
the  beak,  and  is  thus  hauled  on  board. 

We  have  now  passed  the  troubles  and  dangers  of 
Cape  Horn,  and  on  the  19th  of  Febmary  arrived  at 
Valparaiso.  Here  we  expected  to  behold  a  pleasant 
place,  but  were  very  much  disappointed.  The  town 
was  not  large,  and  quite  shabby  in  appearance,  having 
narrow  dirty  streets ;  and  a  stranger  admixture  of  human 
beings  we  had  not  met  witli.  They  were  nearly  of  all 
sizes  and  of  every  colour.  The  Europeans  appear  to 
be  as  distinct  and  peculiar  a  people  here,  as  the  Jews 
do  everywhere  else  in  the  world.  They  inhabit  an 
elevated  section  of  the  town,  which  they  have  dressed 
up,  and  appear  to  have  entirely  to  themselves,  under 
certain  restrictions  ;  for  although  they  have  a  church, 
they  are  not  allowed  to  put  a  steeple  upon  it,  nor  cause 
a  bell  to  be  rung,  lest,  as  we  supposed,  it  might  not 
give  a  true  Catholic  sound.  Or,  perhaps,  "  his  Holi- 
ness'* might  have  imposed  this  silence  upon  them,  as  a 
penance  for  the  crime  of  leaving  their  Protestant  homes 
lor  the  love  of  money,  which  is  the  root  of  all  evil. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  day  of  our  arrival  several  of 
us  went  on  shore,  and  wandered  alone  the  coast  to  the 
southward ;  and  soon  after  we  passed  the  Iiffht-4iouse, 
which  is  situated  on  a  gentle  elevation,  we  round  our- 


■;•»• 


derance 
iliged  U8 

accom- 
ow  until 
ude,  and 
after  the 
ires  inrith 

that  in- 
en  found 
lie  tip  of 
ken  with 
)ok  being 
d  to  drift 
\9  seized 
nf  part  of 

angers  of 
arrived  at 
I  pleasant 
The  town 
ze,  having 
I  of  human 
arly  of  all 
appear  to 
the  Jews 
inhabit  an 
re  dressed 
ires,  under 
a  churchr 
nor  cause 
might  not 
'  his  Holi- 
hein,  as  a 
ant  homes 
11  evil, 
several  of 
oast  to  the 
ffht-house, 
found  our- 


TEN   YEARS  IN  ORBOON. 


221 


selves  at  tlie  mouth  of  a  cave  or  den,  which,  by  the 
human  bones  that  were  scattei«d  around  it,  discovered 
itself  to  be  a  general  depository  of  the  city  dead.  And 
as  tlie  small-pox  had  just  concluded  a  visit  to  that  de- 
voted place,  no  doubt  many  a  score  of  Chilians  had 
recently  passed  through  its  greedy  jaws  to  the  land  of 
forgetfulness. 

Having  finished  our  walk  by  a  circuitous  route  over 
the  thirsty  hills  we  returned  to  the  vessel ;  and  on  the 
22d,  having  recruited  our  sea  stores  as  well  as  we  could, 
weighed  anchor,  hoisted  sail,  and  bent  our  course  for 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  we  arrived  on  the  10th  of 
April. 

Here  we  were  met  by  Mr,  Bcinsmade,  the  United 
States  consul.  Captain  Stetson,  and  the  missionaries 
and  foreign  residents,  who  welcomed  us  to  their  homes, 
and  entertained  us  most  hospitably  during  our  stay. 
Here,  at  Honolulu  and  Oahu,  we  found  two  native 
churches  and  a  seaman's  chapel.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Bing- 
ham and  the  Rev.  Lowell  Smith  were  pastors  of  the 
native  churches,  in  which  diey  preached  two  sermons 
every  sabbath  in  the  Hawaian  language,  to  immense 
congregations  of  natives.  Rev.  Mr.  Deal  was  the  sea- 
man^s  chaplain,  but  was  on  a  tour  to  the  United  States 
in  consequence  of  ill  health.  During  his  absence  his 
desk  was  supplied  by  the  missionaries,  and  strangers, 
such  as  ourselves.  While  here,  the  writer,  in  company 
with  others  of  the  mission  family,  visited  Waialua, 
another  missionary  post  on  the  opposite  side  of  Oahu. 
The  Rev.  Mr,  Emerson  had  charge  of  the  native 
churches  at  that  place,  and  as  we  spent  the  sabbath 
with  that  gentleman,  we  had  the  happiness  to  see 
his  congregation,  and  assist  in  administering  the 
"Lord's  supper"  to  his  church,  which  consisted  of 
twelve  hundred  members,  all  natives. 

We  continued  to  enjoy  the  friendship  and  hospitality 
of  the  above-named  gentlemen  and  their  excellent  com- 
panions until  the  27th,  when  we  received  "sailing 
orders."    Having  been  much  refreshed  during  our  visit 


rn 

>• ,  '1 

./),' 

■i\ 

A\ 

1 

li^ 


¥M\ 


11' 


V 


m 


222 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


here,  both  in  body  and  mind,  we  prepared  for  omr  de- 
parture ;  and  on  the  following  day  bade  adieu  to  our 
dear  friends,  and  also  to  Honolulu,  and  after  a  favour- 
able passage  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  on 
the  21  St  of  May.  The  religious  exercises  of  the  voyage 
consisted  of  preaching,  class  meetings,  and  prayer  meet- 
ings ;  besides  which  we  had  prayers  morning  and  night. 
And  notwithstanding  several  of  the  mission  family  had 
sufifered  considerably  in  ctHisequence  of  sickness,  we 
were  all  spared,  and  permitted  to  behold  the  land  upon 
which  we  were  to  labour  and  suffer,  and  some  of  us  to 
die.  But  we  were  prepared  to  give  unto  God  sincere 
and  hearty  thanks  for  r>ercies  past^  and  to  trust  in  him 
alone  for  time  to  come. 

Soon  after  we  cast  anchor  in  Baker's  Bay  we  were 
visited  by  Captain  Duncan,  who  had  charge  of  one  of 
the  Hudscm  Bay  Company's  vessels,  which  was  also 
at  anchor  in  the  bay,  waitmg  a  favourable  opportunity 
to  cross  the  bar  on  an  outward-bouud  voyage.  This 
gentleman  furnished  us  with  some  excellent  salt  salmon, 
which  made  a  very  acceptable  change  of  food  for  all  on 
board.  Some  of  us  went  on  shore  in  the  afternoon, 
and  took  a  ramble  through  the  wood  in  the  vicinity  of 
Cape  Disappointment,  and  on  our  return  found  Rev. 
Daniel  Lee  on  board.  He  had  just  arrived  from  his 
station  at  the  Dalls,  which,  as  has  been  observed,  was 
commenced  about  the  time  that  the  Rev.  J.  Lee  left 
for  the  United  States.  He  brought  us  intelHgence  from 
that  station  which  had  a  tendency  to  encourage  our 
hearts,  and  cause  us  to  look  forward  with  hope  of 
becoming  instrumental  in  turning  some  of  the  benighted 
savages  to  the  ways  of  virtue  and  religion.  The  Che- 
nook  chief  and  a  number  of  bis  clan  had  come  on  board, 
in  company  with  brother  Lee,  so  that  we  had  a  speci- 
men before  us  of  the  people  among  whom  we  were  to 
live  and  labour ;  and  as  Salty,  the  wife  of  the  old  chief, 
who  could  speak  a  very  few  words  of  English,  inquired 
for  "  /wm,"  i.  e.  rum,  very  soon  after  she  reached  the 
cabin,  we  had  an  early  exhibition  of  one  by  no  means 


0 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


223 


encouraging  trait  in  their  character.  On  being  informed 
that  we  had  no  rum,  the  old  woman,  with  a  look  of 
surprise,  nodded  her  head,  and  exclaimed,  "Oh!" 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  it  was  stormy,  and  the 
ocean  presented  a  frightful  appearance ;  but  having 
sailed  over  twenty-two  thousand  miles  upon  the  bosom 
of  that  and  the  Atlantic  since  we  left  New- York,  we 
were  happy  at  this  time  to  be  beyond  its  reach.  The 
clouds  passed  away  in  the  after  part  of  the  day, 
when  the  Messrs  D.  and  J.  Lee  left  in  a  canoe,  with 
the  Indians,  for  Vancouver.  On  the  23d,  the  wind 
being  favourable,  orders  were  given  to  "  man  the  wind- 
lass ;"  and  before  night  we  dropped  anchor  at  Astoria. 
As  we  had  heard  and  read  much  of  this  place,  we  ex- 
pected to  see  something  like  a  village,  or  at  least  a 
large  trading  estabHshment ;  but  our  astonishment  may 
be  imagined,  when,  instead  of  what  we  had  been  expect- 
ing, was  a  house,  built  after  the  custom  of  the  country, 
but  one  story  high,  sixty  feet  long  by  twenty  feet  wide, 
the  posts  having  been  set  up,  and  then  filled  in  with 
hewn  blocks,  and  covered  with  boards.  In  addition  to 
the  above,  there  was  a  store-house  and  two  small  out- 
houses, all  of  the  same  height,  and  built  of  the  same 
material.  This  constituted  the  whole  establishment  at 
the  far-famed  Astoria.  Here  a  number  of  our  com- 
pany went  on  shore,  and  were  very  kindly  received  by 
Mr.  Birnie  and  his  interesting  family.  Mr.  B.  himself 
having  met  us  at  the  bay,  acted  as  our  pilot  thus  far  up 
the  river;  and  now  very  kindly  furnished  us  with  a 
plenty  of  good  milk  for  our  tea  and  coffee,  the  like  of 
which  we  had  not  had  since  leaving  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  ■/  ,<:.. 

On  the  26th  we  met  the  bark  Columbia  and  the 
Schooner  Cadboroueh  coming  down  from  Vancouver,  on 
their  outward-bound  voyage.  The  Columbia  was  bound 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Mr.  Hall  and  lady,  who  were 
returning  from  a  visit  to  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  in 
the  Nez  Perc^  country,  were  on  board,  thus  far  on 
their  way  to  the  mission  at  the  islands  to  which  they 


i 


■I'-ii^^fl 


r  ^i^ 


.4 


224 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


were  attached.  The  first  printing-press,  and  the  only 
one  in  the  Oregon  Territory  up  to  the  time  we  left,  was 
^  taken  up  by  Mr.  Hall  at  this  time,  for  the  use  of  the 
above-named  mission  in  the  interior. 

We  now  obtained  an  abundant  supply  of  fresh  salmon, 
which  was  a  grateful  change  of  food,  as  our  sea  fare  had 
been  principally  salt.  And  we  were  now  daily  visited 
by  the  Indians,  who  brought  salmon  and  other  articles 
for  the  purpose  of  traffic,  and  manifested  no  want  of 
intellect  by  the  manner  in  which  they  conducted  their 
bargains.  Many  of  us  had  already  commenced  getting 
the  Indian  language,  and  had  succeeded  so  well  by  this 
time  as  to  be  able  to  count  ten.  Tht,  mauxt,  clone. 
Jacket,  qunum,  tuhum,  sunamauxt,  stochtakane,  quiust, 
tat-le-lam ! ! 

On  the  28th  Mr.  Latty,  mate  of  the  Cadborough, 
came  on  board,  and  piloted  our  ship  up  as  far  as  Pillar 
Rock,  which  rock  is  as  well  descnbed  by  its  name  as 
it  can  otherwise  be.  The  channel  lies  between  this  and 
the  shore.  This  rock  stands  up  out  of  the  water  about 
'  twenty  feet,  and  is  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter. 
After  this,  George,  one  of  the  Chenook  Indians,  was  to 
be  our  guide  up  the  river.  George  could  speak  a  very 
few  words  of  English,  and  felt  quite  important  in  the 
discharge  of  his  duty.  He  was  dressed  in  a  very  com- 
fortable style ;  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  loss  of  one 
eye,  which  he  said  a  hair  seal  had  scratched  out,  he 
would  have  been  quite  a  respectable  looking  Flathead. 

The  next  day  we  were  joined  by  a  coloured  man 
from  Vancouver,  bringing,  as  a  foretaste  of  the  kind 
reception  which  awaited  us  at  that  post,  some  excel- 
lent fresh  bread  and  butter,  from  the  larder  of  John 
M'Laughlin,  Esq.  The  name  of  the  coloured  man  was 
George  Washington,  who  reported  himself  to  be  a  good 

filot,  and  that  one  part  of  his  errand  was  to  see  the 
lausanne  safely  up  to  Vancouver.  Thus  Chenook 
George  (who  called  himself,  at  times,  King  George) 
was  superseded  in  the  pilot's  office,  which  bid  fair  to 
blast  his  prospects  of  obtaining  a  respectable  fee  from 


■«, 


% 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


225 


n  was 
a  good 
ee  the 
enook 
eorge) 
fair  to 
from 


Captain  Spaulding.  However,  determined  to  enjoy 
the  privileges,  he  remained,  sat  down  upon  a  spar,  fiUed 
his  pipe,  and  soon  sank  down  into  a  state  of  uncon- 
sciousness, while  George  Washington  took  charge  of 
the  ship.  '  ' 

We  had  not  proceeded  far  when  the  vessel  brought 
up  upon  the  sands,  giving  evidence  that  our  pilot's 
knowledge  was  altogether  inadequate.  Upon  this  the 
old  Indian  awoke  from  his  revery  and  stepped  forward, 
with  a  smile  of  satisfaction  beaming  in  his  weather- 
beaten  countenance,  and  said,  "Me  know  George 
Washington  one  very  good  cook,  but  he  no  pilot?^ 
After  the  vessel  was  got  off  again  into  deep  water,  the 
charge  was  given  to  the  old  Chenook,  who  pointed  out 
the  channel  in  a  very  accurate  manner.  On  the  30th 
we  reached  the  lower  mouth  of  the  Walamet  River, 
and  on  the  following  day,  being  the  sabbath,  we  arrived 
at  a  place  where  we  heard  a  number  of  voices  engaged 
in  singing,  but  could  not  discover  any  person ;  but  it 
was  not  long  before  the  Rev.  D.  Lee,  another  white 
man,  and  some  Indians  came  from  behind  the  willows 
which  skirted  the  bank  of  the  river,  having  been  en- 
gaged, in  this  temple  of  nature,  in  worshipping  the  great 
God  of  nature,  with  a  band  of  Clickatat  Indians  who 
were  camped  here.  Our  vessel  soon  came  to  anchor, 
when  Mr.  Lee  came  on  board,  and  the  white  man  in 
company  with  h.'m  proved  to  be  Mr.  Solomon  Smith. 
During  the  afterroon  we  enjoyed  a  season  of  prayer 
with  these  brethren,  who  had  long  been  isolated  from 
the  civilized  world ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  remark,  that 
we  had  ocular  demonstration  of  the  fact  that  the  spirit 
of  Christianity  is  one  in  whatever  region  of  the  earth 
it  is  met  with.  And  is  not  this  an  evidence  in  favour 
of  its  genuine  and  heaven-born  character  ?  * 

On  «ie  afternoon  of  the  1st  of  June  we  arrived  at 
Vancouver.  After  the  ship  was  anchored,  Dr.  M'Lau^h- 
lin  came  on  board,  and  was  introduced  to  the  mission 
family,  and  gave  them  a  very  kind  invitation  to  partake 
of  the  hospitalities  of  the  fort,  which  if  situated  on 

10» 


ii: :  I 


#■' 


■# 


226 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


the  north  side  of  the  river,  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile, 
or  perhaps  less  than  that,  from  the  water.  On  the  fol- 
lowing day  all  were  comfortably  roomed  in  the  fort, 
and  nothing  was  lacking  on  the  part  of  the  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  the  establishment  to  render  our  sojourn 
comfortable  and  pleasant. 

On  the  Thursday  evening  following  our  arrival,  Mr. 
J.  Lee  having  returned  from  the  Walamet  in  company 
with  Dr.  White  and  others,  we  all  met  in  one  of  the 
halls  to  receive  our  several  appointments  from  the 
superintendent. 

Here  we  learned  that  the  Rev.  J.  P.  Richmond  and 
family  were  to  repair  to  Nesqually,  where  there  was  a 
house  prepared  in  part  for  the  use  of  his  family — Rev. 
W.  W.  ICone  and  G.  Hines  were  to  commence  a  new 
post  at  the  Umbagua — ^Rev.  A.  F.  Waller  at  the  Wala- 
met Falls — and  J.  H.  Frost,  the  writer,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Columbia.  The  remaining  part  of  the  reinforce- 
ment was  to  go  to  the  Walamet,  except  Miss  Clark, 
who  was  to  accompany  Dr.  Richmond  as  teacher,  and 
Mr.  Brewer  and  Dr.  Babcock  and  families,  who  were 
to  reinforce  the  Dalls  station,  and  Miss  Maria  T.  Ware, 
who  was,  on  the  11th  of  June,  united  in  holy  matri- 
mony with  the  Rev.  D.  Lee. 

Nearly  all  were  now  fully  employed  in  receiving 
baggage  and  goods  from  the  ship,  and  in  preparing  for 
their  several  appointments ;  so  that,  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  11th,  thev  were  nearly  all  on  their  way  to  their 
several  fields  of  labour,  except  Dr.  Richmond  and  the 
writer,  it  having  been  previously  determined  that  the 
writer  should  accompany  Mr.  D.  Lee  and  his  reinforce- 
ment to  the  Dalls.  Accordingly,  leaving  my  family  at 
Vancouver,  we  also  departed  in  peace  for  the  last-named 
station.  Our  company  consisted  of  Mr.  Brewer,  Dr. 
Babcock,  and  Mr.  D.  Lee,  and  families,  and  Mr.  Rogers, 
a  young  man  in  connection  with  the  mission  among  the 
Nez  Perces,  and  myself. 

We  set  off  with  two  Indian  canoes  and  one  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  boats  well  laden.     We 


* 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


227 


5    of 

We 


had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  up  the  Columbia, 
when  we  found  our  boat  to  be  in  a  leaky  condition ; 
so  we  determined  to  camp  for  the  purpose  of  repairing. 
On  the  following  morning  we  calked  the  boat  and  set 
out  again  on  our  voyage.  Our  sails  were  so  small, 
and  the  current  so  swift,  that  we  made  but  little  head- 
way through  the  day ;  but  on  the  following  morning, 
having  rigged  a  larger  sail,  and  given  the  management 
of  the  boat  entirely  into  the  hands  of  our  Indian  crew, 
we  made  much  better  progress  through  the  day,  and 
camped  that  night  on  Prairie  du  Terre.  The  next  day 
being  the  sabbath,  I  preached  to  the  brethren  from 
1  Peter  iii,  18 ;  in  addition  to  which  we  had  a  prayer 
meeting  morning  and  evening,  and  Mr.  Lee  preached 
to  the  Indians.  It  was  a  pro^table  day  to  our  souls, 
and  we  were  much  interested  with  the  apparent  fer- 
vency with  which  many  of  the  Indians  called  upon 
God. 

On  the  following  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  Cas- 
cades, where  we  had  a  portage  to  make  at  that  stage 
of  water  of  three  miles.  The  families  proceeded  to 
the  head  of  the  portage,  and  the  Indians  carried  up 
some  of  the  goods ;  after  which  I  was  left  to  take 
charge  of  the  remainder.  When  night  came  on  I  pre- 
pared my  bed  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat  as  welt  as 
circumstances  would  allow,  and  lay  down  to  sleep 
under  the  protection  of  that  Being  to  whom  the  dark- 
ness is  the  same  as  the  light.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing all  hands  set  to  work,  and  on  the  evening  of  the 
19th  all  our  goods  were  not  yet  at  the  head  of  the  falls. 
Such  are  some  of  the  obstructions  to  be  overcome  by 
missionaries  in  a  wild  heathen  country. 

Here  we  met  brother  and  sister  Perkins,  from  the 
Dalls,  who  had  been  so  anxious  to  hail  us  as  fellow- 
labourers  in  this  dark  region  that  they  could  not  await 
our  arrival.  And,  as  the  next  day  was  the  sabbath, 
both  parties  were  rejoiced  at  being  permitted  to  lay  by 
the  toils  and  anxieties  of  the  present  life,  and  unite 
their  voices  at  a  throne  of  jsprace  to^  give  praise  unto 


•* 


I 


1. ,' 


228 


TEN  VEARS IN  OREGON. 


■'^ 


God  for  mercies  past,  and  to  implore  his  aid  for  time 
to  come.  Mr.  Lee  preached  in  the  morning ;  after 
which  we  crossed  to  the  Indian  village  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  where  the  same  gentleman  preach- 
ed to  the  natives  in  their  language  ;  and  after  our  re- 
turn Mr.  Perkins  preached  from  Eph.  v,  16,  16. 

We  now  had  a  voyage  of  two  days  before  us  before 
we  could  reach  the  Dalls ;  and  as  we  were  obliged  to 
dimiss  our  boat  below  the  Cascades,  we  must  needs 
make  the  rest  of  the  trip  in  Indian  canoes.  Canoes 
were  accordingly  procured  from  the  Indians,  and  crews 
to  manage  them  ;  and  when  our  cargoes  were  all 
stowed,  we  stepped,  or  rather  crawled  on  board,  for  an 
Indian  canoef,  when  deeply  loaded,  is  a  very  ticklish 
affair,  and  ours  were  loaded  down  within  a  hand's 
breadth  of  the  water ;  so  that  a  slight  cant  would  fill 
them  with  water,  and  to  strangers,  as  we  were,  it  seem- 
ed impossible  to  manage  them  without  turning  them 
over.  Previous  to  this  the  writer  had  boasted  of  never 
being  afraid  when  on  the  water,  but  now  his  boasting 
was  at  an  end ;  for  no  one  could  have  suffered  much 
more  with  fear  for  such  a  length  of  time  than  he  did 
during  the  conclusion  of  that  voyage ;  and  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  second  day,  as  the  Dalls  mission  house 
hove  in  sight,  he  prayed  the  Indians  to  put  him  on 
shore,  feeling  thankful  for  the  privilege  of  going  the 
remainder  of  the  way  on  foot.  And  when  near  the 
house  he  met  with  another  disaster,  for  there  he  was 
obliged  to  witness  a  scene  which  is  sufficiently  disgMst- 
ing  to  an  old  mountain  trapper,  namely,  two  young  In- 
dians squatting  on  the  ground  and  regaling  tnemselves 
with  vermin  which  they  had  picked  from  each  other's 
heads ! 

This  was  too  much  for  his  nervous  system  to  endure 
at  the  termination  of  such  a  voyage ;  but  this  was 
found  to  be  a  matter  of  every-day  occurrence  with  his 
new  neighbours.  A  missionary,  on  another  occasion, 
reproved  an  old  Indian  for  beins  caught  in  the  same 
filthy  practice,  upon  which  the  old  man,  very  honestly, 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


229 


re- 


answered,  in  "his  own  speech,  "  Cultus,  cultus  shicks, 
cahqua  salmon  claska — Nothing,  nothing,  friend ;  they 
are  all  the  same  as  salmon." 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  we  all  met  at  the  house  and 
took  tea  together  under  a  roof,  with  thankful  hearts ; 
and  on  the  next  day  set  about  stowing  four  families 
into  a  house,  which  had,  heretofore,  been  none  too 
large  for  the  accommodation  of  one  family  and  a  bach- 
elor. This  work,  with  the  necessary  interruptions 
from  the  Indians,  occupied  our  time  until  the  2d  of 
July,  when  Mr.  Lee,  Dr.  Babcock,  and  the  writer,  bid 
our  families  and  friends  farewell,  and  set  off  for  Van- 
couver. The  canoe  in  which  we  were  to  perform  the 
trip  as  far  as  the  Cascades,  we  found  to  be  very  leaky, 
and  so  crank  that  it  was  very  much  inclined  to  go  upon 
one  side :  this  awakened  all  my  former  fears,  and  after 
proceeding  about  a  mile,  being  swept  down  by  a  stiff 
current,  and  realizing,  perhaps,  all  the  fears,  solicitudes, 
and  anxieties,  of  a  poor  shipwrecked  mariner  upon  a 
hen-coop  on  the  broad  ocean,  I  cried  out  for  quarter, 
and  declared  my  determination  to  go  no  further  as  pas- 
senger in  that  vessel,  unless  they  would  consent  to  go 
on  shore,  calk  ship,  and  take  in  ballast.  This  Mr. 
Lee,  who  had  by  this  time  become  almost  amphibious, 
and  cared  but  little  which  side  of  the  canoe  was  upper- 
most, so  long  as  she  went  ahead,  thought  to  be  a  need- 
less waste  of  time ;  but  finding  the  doctor  to  be  in 
favour  of  my  proposition  we  carried  the  point,  put ' ; 
shore,  calked  the  largest  cracks  in  the  canoe  with 
cedar  bark  and  some  bits  of  cloth,  took  in  some  stone 
for  ballast,  and  then  cast  adrift  again  ;  the  Indians  now 
hoping,  as  they  said,  that  I  would  be  ■  a  woman  no 
longer,  (for  whenever  any  one  expresses,  in  their  esti- 
mation,  needless  fear,  they  say  he  is  no  better  than  a 
woman,)  struck  up  the  tune  "  ho  ha  ho,  ho-ho  ha  ho," 
at  the  same  time  plying  their  paddles  with  admirable 
dexterity :  we  glidea  down  the  stream  at  the  rate  of 
eight  or  ten  knots  an  hour,  with  but  little  further  diffi- 
culty, save  the  occasional  shipping  of  a  wave,  which 


4  ^ 


.'■'" 


<i! 


vll 


>!;.!' J 


:^m 


230 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


would  wet  US  nicely,  in  addition  to  that  of  bailing  out 
the  accumulated  waters  about  every  twenty  minutes ; 
this  last  work,  however,  the  doctor  and  myself  per- 
formed to  admiration,  as  we  were  the  only  passengers 
that  felt  in  the  least  incommoded,  and  as  our  good 
friend  Lee  did  not,  generally,  trouble  himself  with  such 
trifling  affairs. 

On  the  next  day,  in  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  the 
Cascades,  ran  our  old  canoe  into  the  mouth  of  a  small 
creek,  made  it  fast ;  and  sent  word  to  its  owner,  who 
lived  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  to  come  and  get  it.  Took 
another  canoe,  and  crossed  the  river  and  held  meeting 
with  the  Indians  at  their  village ;  returned  and  camped 
for  the  night.  On  the  following  morning  we  left  Dr. 
B.  to  load  a  canoe  with  goods  which  had  been  left  on 
our  passage  up,  with  which  he  was  to  return  to  the 
Dalls,  and  Mr.  L.  and  myself  made  further  arrangements 
for  our  downward  passage  to  Vancouver. 

Just  before  we  were  ready  to  depart,  the  Indian  to 
whom  the  old  canoe  belonged,  in  which  we  had  floated 
from  the  Dalls,  which  was  not  worth  a  dollar,  came  to 
Mr.  Lee,  and  said  in  a  very  expressive  tone,  "  Friend, 
my  canoe,  which  you  left  at  the  head  of  the  falls,  got 
loose  somehow  last  night,  went  over  the  falls,  and  is 
entirely  destroyed,  and  as  I  am  very  poor  now,  what 
will  you  give  me  ?"  We  were  satisfied  that  the  canoe 
could  not  have  gone  away  without  help,  and  that  the 
rascal  had  taken  this  course  to  obtain  a  good  price  for 
his  worthless  property ;  but  as  we  had  no  proof  that  he 
had  sent  the  old  canoe  adrift,  and  as  it  was  important 
to  retain  the  good-will  of  this  fellow,  especially  as  he 
was  a  head  man  in  his  clan,  in  order  to  prevent  further 
impositions,  and  to  secure  their  assistance  when  making 
the  frequent  portages  at  this  place,  Mr.  L.  promised  to 
make  him  satisfaction,  and  redeemed  his  pledge  on  his 
return  by  giving  him  a  musket :  this  made  his  heart 
good,  and  when  in  conversation  with  the  writer  after- 
ward at  Vancouver,  he  said  they  all  did  as  Mr.  Lee 
told  them  ;  that  his  heart  "/mZ/  of^ay  /" 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


831 


We  arrived  at  Vancouver,  without  any  further  dif- 
ficulties, on  the  afternoon  of  the  4th,  and  were  happy  to 
meet  our  friends  there  in  comfortable  health.  Rev. 
Dr.  J.  P.  Richmond  and  family  had  left  on  the  2d  for 
Nesqually,  his  route  to  that  place  being  by  the  way  of  the 
Columbia  and  Cawalitz  Rivers  in  boats  until  they  reach 
the  settlement  on  the  latter  stream.  There  they  were 
furnished  with  horses  to  ride,  and  others  upon  which  to 
pack  their  baggage,  their  furniture  and  supplies  having 
been  left  to  go  around  in  one  of  the  company's  vessels 
by  the  first  opportunity.  And  now  the  reader  may 
witness,  in  imagination,  the  doctor's  preparations  for 
this  new  and  novel  mode  of  travelling  by  land.  In  the 
first  place,  several  horses  are  packed,  some  with 
trunks,  boxes,  and  valises,  others  with  sacks  of  flour, 
pork  and  bread,  pots,  kettles,  and  pans,  etc.,  etc. ;  and 
the  last  with  tents,  beds  and  bedding.  This  done, 
other  horses  are  saddled,  then  Mrs.  Richmond  is  as- 
sisted in  mounting,  and  takes  the  youngest  child,  a  fine 
little  boy  of  about  nine  months  in  her  arms.  The  doctor 
mounts  next  with  one  daughter  in  his  arms,  and  another 
up  behind ;  then  Miss  Clark  is  assisted  in  seating  her- 
self in  the  saddle  ;  after  which  Mr.  Wilson,  who  was 
by  this  time  an  old  hand  at  the  business,  springs  upon 
his  horse,  and  all  are  ready  for  a  two  days'  march ; 
upon  which  a  Canadian  or  two,  who  are  to  act  as  guides 
and  escorts,  sing  out  to  the  horses,  "  Marche-dan"  that 
is.  Go  there,  and  off  they  move  in  single  file  along  an 
Indian  trail.  With  nothing  but  a  smooth  path  ahead 
there  would  have  been  but  little  to  apprehend ;  but  in- 
stead of  that,  they  must  cross  rugged  mountains,  deep 
defiles,  and  rapid  streams,  besides  wading  dangerous 
mud-holes.  But  as  my  good  friend,  the  doctor,  was  not 
prone  to  borrow  trouble  from  the  future,  I  doubt  not, 
when  the  dangers  and  toils  of  the  day  were  over,  they 
enjoyed  their  humble  repast,  which  was  served  up  upon 
as  clean  a  mat  as  could  be  found,  with  thankfulness  to 
the  Author  of  all  mercies.  After  which  followed  the 
reading  of  the  Holy  Scriptures  and  family  prayers ;  the 


232 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


«r 


ladies  then  prepare  their  beds  upon  the  ground,  stow 
away  the  already  sleeping  children,  and  all  hands  lie 
down  to  rest  their  weary  limbs,  and  recover  strength 
for  the  remainder  of  their  journey.  And  despite  of  the 
hooting  of  owls,  and  the  howling  of  wolves  in  the  sur- 
rounding forest,  their  sleep  is  sweet  and  refreshing,  and 
on  the  following  day  they  reach  their  place  of  destina- 
tion in  safety,  and  take  possession  of  their  new,  half- 
finished  house,  which  was  located  within  about  half  a 
mile  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  fort  on  Puget 
Sound.  Here  we  leave  them,  to  finish  their  dwelling, 
and  commence  their  labours  as  missionaries  among 
the  Indians  of  that  vicinity,  while  we  return  to  Van- 
couver. .  •■■■■..  ,  . 
The  day  after  we  arrived  at  Vancouver.  Being  the 
sabbath,  Mr.  Lee  and  myself  each  preached  one  ser- 
mon in  the  public  hall,  our  hearers  consisting  of  most 
of  the  gentlemen  of  the  fort,  the  scholars  from  the 
school  in  the  establishment,  and  the  few  of  the  mission 
family  still  remaining.  Here  we  continued  transacting 
business  until  the  10th,  when  Mr.  Lee  and  myself  set 
out  for  Astoria,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  coun- 
try and  ascertaining  the  most  favourable  location  for  a 
missionary  post  near  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Our 
means  of  conveyance  down  the  river  was  a  small  canoe, 
manned  by  a  crew  of  two  Indians ;  and  after  travelling 
most  of  the  time,  day  and  night,  we  arrived  at  Astoria 
on  the  morning  of  the  1 2th ;  and  this  being  the  sab- 
bath, we  spent  the  day  with  Mr.  Birnie,  the  gentleman 
of  whom  mention  has  already  been  made,  and  partook 
with  him  of  most  excellent  fresh  salmon,  and  straw- 
berries and  cream.  During  the  day  Mr.  Lee  and  the 
writer  retired  to  the  adjoining  grove,  where  we  enjoyed 
a  most  refreshing  season  of  prayer,  and  besought  the 
God  of  missions  to  direct  us  in  selecting  a  spot  where 
to  erect  the  standard  of  the  cross.  On  the  following 
day  we  crossed  the  river,  and  visited  the  Chenook  and 
Checalish  Indians,  and  spoke  to  them  on  the  subject  of 
establishing  a  mission  in  their  vicinity,  at  which  they 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


233 


appeared  to  be  very  well  pleased ;  but  manifested  a 
degree  of  disappointment  when  I  informed  them  through 
Mr.  Lee,  who  acted  as  interpreter,  that  my  principal 
design  was  to  teach  them  how  to  worship  the  Great 
Chief  above,  and  not  to  trade  for  beaver  or  salmon, 
only  so  much  as  we  might  need  for  food.     For  it  should 
not  be  forgotten  that  they  never  act  from  any  higher 
motives,  in  their  transactions  with  the  whites,  than  the 
prospect  of  temporal  gain  ;  and  it  is  perfectly  reasona- 
ble that  they  should  not,  since  they  possess  no  correct 
knowledge  of  the  relation  they  sustain  to  God,  as  ra- 
tional and  accountable  beings,  nor  of  the  future  state 
as  a  place  of  retribution.     It  is  true,  they  have  some 
strange  and  indistinct  notions  of  the  continued  existence 
of  friends  departed  ;  but,  as  nearly  as  we  could  ascer- 
tain, the  empVyments  of  that  state  were  considered  to 
be  similar  to  those  of  the  present ;  consequently  the 
oldest  woman  among  the  Chenooks,  a  descendant  of 
Comcomly,  when  she  buried  a  daughter,  a  number  of 
years  ago,  it  is  reported  that  she  caused  two  slaves  to 
be  killed  and  deposited  in  the  same  canoe  with  the 
dead  body  of  the  deceased,  for  the  purpose  of  attend- 
ing her  in  the  future  state.      And  in  addition  to  the 
above,  we  ask,  does  any  man,  while  in  an  unconverted 
state,  of  any  nation  or  climate,  act  from  any  higher 
motive  in  anything  that  he  may  do  than  from  a  princi- 
ple of  supreme  selfishness?     If  not,  and  the  writer 
fully  believes  that  the  person  cannot  be  produced  in  the 
wide  world,  even  from  Adam,  after  his  fall,  down  to  his 
youngest  son  that  now  treads  the  earth,  that  ever  acted, 
under  the  above  circumstances,  from  any  other  motive — 
this  being  the  fact,  those  who  have  found  the  Indians 
of  Oregon  to  be  very  anxious,  as  they  have  stated,  to 
have  missionaries  sent  among  them  that  they  might  be 
taught  "  how  to  worship  the  Great  Spirit  aright,"  have 
been  led  into  er^or,  not  beine  sufficiently  acquainted 
with  the  beings  with  whom  they  had  to  do  to  under- 
stand the  secret  drift  of  their  pretensions.    And,  no 
doubt,  this  is  one,  if  not  the  greatest  reason,  why  the 


'tM\ 


..  h\ 


234 


TEN  YEABS  IN  OREGON. 


church  has  been  led  to  put  an  improper  estimate  upon 
the  prospects  of  Christianizing  and  civilizing  the  na- 
tives of  that  region,  and  must  now  realize  the  conse- 
quences, namely,  disappointment  and  regret — disap- 
pointment because  the  work  which  she  expected  her 
missionaries  to  be  instrumental  in  accomplishing  has 
not  been  accomplished  by  them ;  and  regret  that  so 
many  thousands,  which  ought  to  have  been  employed 
in  the  cultivation  of  a  more  promising  field,  have  been 
spent  in  Oregon  for  the  purpose  of  effecting  that  which, 
in  all  sober  reason,  ought  never  to  have  been  expected. 
It  should  not  be  inferred  from  this  statement,  however, 
that  no  good  has  resulted  to  the  inhabitants  of  Oregon 
through  the  exertions  of  the  church  and  of  her  mis- 
sionaries, who  have  spent,  and  are  still  spending,  "  their 
sweat,  and  blood,  and  pains,  to  cultivate  Immanuel's 
land,*'  in  that  dark  portion  of  our  earth.  But,  on  the 
contrary,  we  feel  ourselves  fully  justified  in  asserting 
that  great  good  has  crowned  their  labours ;  and  doubt 
not  that  a  host  will  come  up  in  the  end  from  that  re- 
gion to  unite  in  celebrating  the  praises  of  Him  "  who 
hath  loved  us,  and  washed  us  from  our  sins  in  his  own 
blood." 

We  camped  at  Chenook  for  the  night,  and  on  the 
following  morning  crossed  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and 
visited  the  Clatsops  on  the  south  side ;  after  which  we 
returned  to  Mr.  Birnie's.  Here  we  purchased  a  large 
canoe,  and  after  spending  this  and  the  following  night 
with  the  above  gentleman,  we  engaged  three  Checalish 
Indians  to  man  our  canoes,  and  prepared  for  our  depart- 
ure for  Vancouver.  But  when  we  were  ready  to  em- 
bark, our  faithless  crew  was  entirely  missing.  We 
were  now  in  a  dilemma — two  canoes  to  navigate  up  the 
river,  and  not  a  man  to  help  us,  and  as  for  myself,  hav- 
ing never  had  any  experience  in  canoeing,  except  the 
dread  created  in  consequence  of  the  probability  of  up- 
setting every  moment,  I  was  no  better  than  so  much 
ballast,  no,  not  half  so  good,  for  ballast  would  lie  still, 
but  that  I  could  not  be  persuaded  to  do,  so  that,  by  my 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


235 


continual  endeavours  to  balance  the  canoe,  I  caused  it 
to  rock  ten  times  more. 

We  were  measurably  relieved,  however,  from  our 
present  embarrassments  by  the  proffer  of  a  servant  of 
the  company,  who  was  going  up  to  Pillar  Rock  to  the 
salmon  nshing,  with  a  boat,  to  take  one  of  our  canoes 
in  tow.  This  done,  we  rigged  a  sail  in  the  other ;  and, 
as  the  wind  was  fair,  we  bid  adieu  to  our  kind  host  at 
Astoria,  and  set  sail,  Mr.  I  '^e  acting  as  captain  and 
helmsman,  and  myself  going  before  the  mast  on  the 
broad  of  my  back,  lest  by  my  movements  the  canoe 
might  be  upset.  In  this  strange  plight,  being  favoured 
with  a  fine  breeze,  we  soon  found  ourselves  at  the  sal- 
mon fishery.  Here  we  found  old  Skumaquea  and  his 
wife.  This  was  a  head  man  of  a  small  band  of  Indians 
a  few  miles  above.  They  took  charge  of  one  of  our 
canoes ;  and  encouraged  us  to  hope  that  when  we  arrived 
at  their  place  we  would  obtain  a  crew.  So  after  re- 
plenishing our  empty  sionachs,  we  hoisted  sail  again, 
and  with  considerable  difficulty  reached  the  old  man's 
lodge ;  but,  unfortunately,  all  the  men  had  just  gone 
about  four  miles  up  the  river,  to  one  of  the  Cathlamat 
Islands,  to  witness  a  great  medical  operation.  V/hat 
now  could  we  do  ?  We  must  either  camp  here  for  the 
night,  or  devise  some  means  to  get  along  as  far  as  the 
above-named  island,  which  was  the  only  place  at  which 
we  might  expect  to  find  a  crew.  And  as  there  was  no 
other  means  within  our  reach  of  effecting  the  latter,  we 
proposed  that  four  of  their  women  should  become  our 
seamen  and  guides  to  the  island,  for  which  services  we 
would  give  them  a  handkerchief  each.  To  this  propo- 
sal, after  some  talking  and  laughter  among  themselves, 
they  assented ;  and  in  a  very  short  time  we  were  all 
on  board,  and  on  our  way ;  and  the  women  soon  gave 
evidence  that  they  were  by  no  means  inferior  to  their 
men  in  point  of  managing  a  canoe,  for  no  sooner 
had  we  cleared  the  land  sufficiently  to  get  the  strong 
sea  breeze,  which  had  increased  to  nearly  half  a  gale, 
than  they  set  up  sail,  one  of  which  consisted  of  a  rush 


?-^?. 


^rfc 


I  ,:!. 


¥ 


4  '  !' 

■   ■,:   "J  1. 


1, 


i;.t  !i 


836 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


\ 


maty  and  away  we  darted  with  incredible  speed,  and 
were  soon  sately  landed  at  the  place  of  appointment. 
Here  we  discharged  our  fair  crew,  and  soon  engaged 
four  young  Indians  to  assist  us  in  getting  up  to  Van- 
couver. 

But  perhaps  we  ought  not  to  take  our  departure  from 
this  place  without  noticing  the  great  medical  operation 
which  was  being  performed  here.  The  patients  con- 
sisted of  a  young  woman,  who,  upon  examination,  was 
found  to  have  a  slight  fever ;  and  a  child,  in  much  the 
same  state,  neither  of  them  being  dangerously  ill.  But 
the  doctors  affirmed  that  they  had  been  filled  with  sko- 
koms ;  and  as  proof  of  the  truth  of  their  statement  of 
the  cases,  they  produced  a  small  snail  shell,  with  a 
small  string  attached  to  it,  and  a  small  bunch  of  hair, 
wound  up  with  a  thread,  and  several  other  artic^s  of 
the  same  nature,  which  they  professed  to  have  taken 
from  the  stomachs  of  the  sick,  and  there  were  still 
several  to  be  dislodged  before  a  cathartic  would  take 
any  effect ;  but  after  these  were  removed,  they  said  it 
would  be  good  for  Mr.  Lee  to  give  his  medicine.  They 
now  made  preparations  for  a  trial  of  their  skill  in  en- 
deavouring to  rout  another  of  these  evil  genii  or  sko- 
koms.  One  of  the  doctors  out  of  the  six  or  eight  who 
constituted  the  grand  council,  all  of  whom  appeared  as 
wise  as  serpents,  it  would  seem  had  been  the  most 
successful  in  his  attacks  upon  the  strong-hold  of  this 
combination  of  skokoms,  so  it  was  decided  he  should 
be  the  leader  in  another  general  onset.  Upon  which 
he  crawled  near  the  young  woman,  (who  was  stretched 
upon  a  mat,  with  a  female  attendant  at  her  head,)  for 
the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  precise  position  of  the 
enemy.  Having  determined  this  point,  and  made  known 
all  the  particulars  to  his  brethren  of  the  faculty,  he  pre- 
pared himself  for  the  tug  of  war.  This  he  did  by 
drawing  his  right  arm  through  the  hole  in  his  blanket 
around  the  neck,  so  that  his  arm  was  now  entirely  dis- 
encumbered. He  then  threw  his  long  hair  up  over  his 
head,  which  entirely  covered  his  face.    Being  now 


'■■m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


237 


ready,  he  kneeled  down,  while  all  the  other  doctors,  and 
men,  women,  and  children,  were  arranged  on  either 
side,  equipped  with  sticks  and  long  poles  which  reached 
to  the  board  roof.    The  kneeling  doctor  now  commenced 
a  wild  and  frightful  song  or  chorus,  in  which  all  joined, 
keeping  time  with  their  sticks.     He  now  commenced 
moving  with  well-dissembled  caution  toward  the  patient, 
extending  his  hands  toward  her  stomach,  as  an  eagle 
would  his  talons,  ready  to  seize  his  af&ighted  prey ; 
and  the  nearer  he  approached  the  lodgment  of  the  sko- 
kom,  the  more  furious  became  the  singers  and  thumpers, 
and  v/hen  he  reached  the  stomach,  at  which  he  had 
been  aiming,  his  distorted  form  and  strained  muscles 
evinced  the  appearance  of  perfect  agony.    The  choir 
now  bore  down  with  might  and  main,  and  the  practi- 
tioner now  plunged  his  two  fists  into  the  patient's  sto- 
mach most  unmercifully ;  and  seizing  one  of  the  enemy 
by  the  neck  or  heels,  or  somewhere  else,  he  appeared 
to  find  it  very  hot ;  but  drawing  back  quickly,  plunged 
his  hands  into  a  trough  of  cold  water,  which  was  stand- 
ing hard  by,  and  then  seized  the  unyielding  foe  again ; 
but  as  it  had  then  assumed  something  of  the  nature  of 
the  eel,  and  slipped  out  of  his  hands,  he  quickly  caught 
up  some  ashes,  rubbed  it  on  his  fingers,  then  laid  hold 
upon  it  for  the  third  time,  screaming  and  yelling  in  the 
most  terrific  manner,  while  the  company  plied  their 
sticks,  and  singing,  or  rather  screaming,  pipes  with 
redoubled  energy.     The  battle  now  became  doubtful ; 
but  after  many  manly  efforts  victory  turned  upon  the 
doctor's  side,  who,  by  one  mighty  effort,  broke  the  hold 
'  of  the  skokom  upon  the  patient,  wliich  now  turned 
wholly  upon  the  doctor,  causing  him  to  cry  out  for  help. 
The  company  was  now  in  perfect  ecstasies,  pounding  as 
though  life  and  death  depended  upon  every  stroke  ;  and 
bellowing  at  the  very  top  of  their  voices,  "  Ha  ha  yeh, 
ha  ha  yen."    Two  of  the  faculty  now  caught  the  almost 
overpowered  doctor  around  the  waist,  fnd  bore  him, 
screeching  and  writhing,  away  from  the  patient,  amidst 
thit  thundering  noise  of  the  transported  spectators  and 


I  m 


II 


f"^' 


^K 


238 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


attendant  physicians ;  but  all  of  a  sudden  the  victorious 
doctor  cried,  "^o  ho  Ao,"and  making  an  effort,  as  though 
he  was  catching  after  something  toward  the  top  of  the 
lodge,  exclaimed, "  There^  he  has  gone  through  the  roof!" 
The  music  now  ceased,  every  Indian  and  squaw  ap- 
peared astonished,  while  the  doctor  explained  the  whole 
process  in  an  elaborate  speech.  After  witnessing  se- 
veral such  feats,  Mr.  Lee  commenced  reproving  them 
for  their  folly ;  but  a  venerable  old  doctor  informed  him 
that  it  would  be  best  for  him  to  depart  before  he  found 
himself  in  trouble.  So  taking  the  old  man's  advice, 
we  laid  in  a  stock  of  fresh  dried  salmon,  got  our  crew 
on  board,  and  left  the  doctors  to  manage  the  remainder 
of  the  skokoms  according  to  their  ancient  mode  of 
practice. 

It  was  now  night,  but  the  pale  moon  had  taken  up 
the  tale  of  creating  goodness,  and  was  pouring  her  silver 
rays  upon  the  expansive  bosom  of  the  virgin  waters, 
while  the  owl  upon  the  opposite  mountain,  more  rational 
than  his  unfledged  neighbours  of  the  island,  was  pouring 
forth  the  praises  of  his  creator  God  in  solemn  notes. 
A  few  moments'  calm  reflection  upon  the  exalted  pri- 
vileges of  the  Christian,  who  has  abundant  proof  of  an 
all-surrounding  Deity  in  the  works  of  his  hand,  in 
connection  with  the  assurance  that  all  things  shall  work 
together  for  good  to  them  that  love  him,  had  a  tendency 
to  dispel  the  excitement  created  by  the  inhuman  and 
most  ludicrous  scene  which  we  had  just  witnessed ;  and 
now  wrapping  myself  in  my  blanket,  I  stretched  out  in 
the  bottom  of  the  canoe,  and  fell  asleep.  But  this  sweet 
slumber,  like  all  our  endearments  here,  was  but  mo- 
mentary in  its  duration ;  for  the  expiring  breeze  from  the 
Pacific,  like  frail  man  after  his  last  convulsive  effort  to 
cling  to  Hfe,  fell  off  at  once,  which  produced  such  a 
reaction  upon  our  sail  that  it  was  well  nigh  upsetting 
the  canoe,  and  caused  all  the  fears  hitherto  experienced 
by  the  sleeper  to  rush  on  his  mind  like  a  mignty  flood, 
and  of  course  there  was  no  more  sleep.  My  worthy 
associate  was  now  awakened,  having  dreamed  of  no 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


239 


disasters  ;  and  after  a  kind  lecture  upon  the  unprofit- 
ableness of  being  disturbed  with  needless  fears,  con- 
sented to  go  ashore.  We  soon  reached  the  north  shore 
of  the  river ;  and  hauling  our  canoe  partly  upon  land, 
under  the  brow  of  a  frowning  precipice,  we  placed  our 
blanket  in  the  bottom  of  our  frail  bark,  and  after  com- 
mitting ourselves  to  the  protection  of  the  God  of  mis- 
sions, lay  down  side  by  side,  spread  the  other  blanket 
over  us,  and  slept  until  morning  as  sweetly  as  many 
hundreds  in  the  civilized  world  upon  their  beds  of  down. 
In  the  morning  we  found  our  two  Indians  curled  up  in 
the  bow  of  the  canoe,  enjoying  that  sweet  slumber 
peculiar  to  such  as  are  not  pressed  with  the  cares  of  the 
world  and  the  deceitfulness  of  riches :  a  most  con- 
vincing proof  of  the  truth  of  the  poet's  lines, 

"  Man  \frants  but  little  here  below,    ,     ,,^  ,     ...    , 
Nor  wants  that  little  long."  ^    S£ 'ti      &l 

'  lands  were  now  called ;  but  only  called  to  con- 
ti f  with  new  difficulties,  for  in  hauling  our  canoe 
a^'hore  it  had  come  in  contact  with  a  slick  or  stone, 
which  had  loosened  a  large  knot,  which  caused  it  to 
leak  alarmingly.  It  was  now  hauled  on  shore  again, 
and  with  some  difficulty  repaired.  This  exercise  ex- 
cited a  morning  appetite,  which  determined  all  hands 
to  take  a  munch  before  commencing  the  journey  of  the 
day ;  but  to  our  surprise  and  grief,  the  ample  store  of 
fresh  dried  salmon  which  we  Tiad  taken  the  precaution 
to  lay  in  the  previous  night  had  been  stowed  in  the 
other  canoe,  and  how  far  our  fellow-voyageurs  were 
ahead  or  astern  of  us  was  impossible  for  us  to  decide. 
Here  we  were,  with  a  heavy  day's  work  on  hand  for 
our  crew,  and  no  more  provision  than  one  hungry  In- 
dian required  for  a  day's  allowance.  We  however  took 
a  bite  of  what  remained  to  us,  and  pushed  ahead  as  soon 
as  possible,  in  hopes  of  overtakmg  the  other  canoe, 
with  the  prophetic  announcement  from  the  Indians,  that 
if  we  did  not  succeed  in  coming  up  with  the  dried  sal- 
mon their  hearts  would  be  very  poor  before  night.   And, 


I  i? 


■^  I     H'M 


tei 


^; 


240 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


as  it  turned  out  in  the  sequel,  our  other  crew  were 
pulling  ahead  with  all  their  strength,  hoping  to  over- 
haul us,  knowing,  as  they  afterward  said,  that  we 
would  be  very  hungry  for  some  of  the  good  salmon, 
and  supposing  that  we  had  preceded  them  during  the 
night,  while  they  were  asleep.  But  as  their  canoe  was 
much  the  lightest,  we  were  of  course  left  far  in  the 
rear.  We  had  some  wind  and  tide  in  our  favour ;  but 
when  the  nieht  closed  in  upon  us,  we  were  ten  or  more 
miles  from  Vancouver.  My  colleague  laid  hold  upon  a 
paddle,  and  commenced,  in  addition  to  the  weary  crew, 
to  propel  our  bark  ahead  with  greater  rapidity ;  and  I, 
being  a  novice,  was  permitted  once  more  to  roll  myself 
in  my  blanket,  and  lose  my  appetite  for  salmon  in  a 
state  of  unconsciousness.  How  or  when  we  arrived  at 
Vancouver  I  know  not ;  but  we  v^ere  awakened  in  the 
morning  by  Dr.  Tolmie,  a  gentleman  of  the  company, 
and  when  I  arose  I  found  our  rather  queer  bed-room 
hauled  upon  shore,  and  completely  stowed  with  my 
associates,  some  covered  with  blankets,  and  others  with 
Our  appetites  now  returned  with  renewed  vigour. 


none. 


and  we  remember  doing  ample  justice  to  the  excellent 
breakfast  that  was  soon  placed  before  us  in  the  fort,  in 
company  with  those  we  left,  whom  we  found  in  healta, 
which  sweetened  every  other  mercy. 

This  being  the  sabbath,  we  laboured  to  feed  those 
with  the  bread  of  life  who  had,  as  good  stewards,  com- 
municated to  us  in  temporal  things.  We  remained  at 
Vancouver  until  the  26th,  Mr.  Lee  engaged  in  packing 
and  arranging  some  goods  for  his  station  at  the  Dalls, 
while  I  was  making  arrangements  for  the  purpose  of 
occupying  the  post  assigned  to  me. 

In  the  following  week  Mr.  Lee  left  with  two  canoes 
deeply  laden  with  necessaries  for  the  Dalls,  while  I 
proceeded  with  my  arrangements  for  our  removal  to 
Astoria. 


fUi 


"/-'•!  "K^iA''  .'•'^^r''; 


I    \ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


241 


inoes 
ile  I 
al  to 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Account  of  the  Dalls  resumed — A  cold-blooded  murder  committed — En- 
counter with  Indians — M;8sion  family  suffer  from  sickness — Camp  meeting 
— ^Mr.  D.  Lee's  voyage  from  and  to  the  Dalls — ^Journey  to  the  Walamet 
station — Death  of  Mrs.  Leslie — Birth — Marriages — Annual  meeting — 
Building — Religious  meetings — Death  of  Mrs.  Jason  Lee — Mr.  and  Mrs.  D. 
Lee's  voyage  to  and  from  Vancouver — Eruption  of  a  volcano — Visit  to 
Walamet  Falls,  and  return — Religious  state  of  the  natives — Remarkable 
conversic   -Mr.  and  Mrs.  D.  Lee  sail  for  the  United  States. 


To  resume  the  account  of  the  Dalls.  After  the  wri- 
ter had  occupied  about  two  months,  from  the  1st  of 
June  till  near  the  end  of  July,  1840,  in  company  with 
Mr.  Frost,  up  and  down  the  Columbia,  as  we  have 
already  stated  in  a  preceding  chapter,  he  pursued  his 
way  with  his  heavy-laden  canoe  from  Fort  Vancouver 
to  the  Dalls ;  where,  after  several  days  of  hard  and 
weary  toil,  and  the  usual  rough  and  smooth  of  the  jour- 
ney, he  arrived  in  safety,  glad  to  meet  Messrs.  Babcock, 
Brewer,  and  Perkins,  and  their  ladies,  and  Mrs.  Lee,  all 
in  good  spirits.  We  were  happy  to  meet  again,  and 
thankful  for  the  watchful  care  of  Him  who  "encampeth 
round  about  his  people."  In  my  absence  Mr.  Perkins  had 
been  labouring  among  the  people ;  and  some  difficulties 
and  trials  had  arisen  since  my  departure.  Shortly  after 
the  camp  meeting,  a  cold-blooded  murder  had  been  com- 
mitted on  the  person  of  a  leading  man  at  Wishham, 
Cali-te-weet  by  name,  who  was  regarded  as  a  valuable 
Christian,  and  the  most  useful  man  in  the  village.  A 
notorious  villain,  by  the  name  of  Chap-a-h,  of  the  Wal- 
lah-wallah tribe,  stole  several  of  the  man's  horses,  and 
he  went  after  him  to  recover  them.  On  arriving  at  his 
hut,  the  horses,  it  seems,  were  tied  without,  when  he 
and  those  with  him  began  to  unloose  them  ;  and  while 
they  were  doing  this,  the  murderer  aimed  his  rifle 
through  an  opening  in  the  lodge,  and  killed  the  owner 
on  the  spot !  This  horrid  deed  of  the  reckless  mur- 
derer awoke  the  spirit  of  revenge.  A  chief  had  inglo- 
riously  fallen — a  relative,  and  he  had  many — and  overy 

11 


':.r 


;* 


m. 


■^   ^ 


242 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


heart  was  moved ;  and  it  became  an  occasion  of  dis- 
couragement  and  declension.  Up  till  now  nothing  had 
transpired  so  full  of  danger  to  the  quietness  and  peace 
that  had  prevailed  hitherto.  The  question  would  now 
arise,  "  What  is  the  good  of  praying  ?"  "  Our  brother 
prayed,  but  he  is  dead.  If  it  will  not  keep  us  from 
^  i-  dying,  why  pray  ?  If  we  pray,  we  cannot  revenge  the 
death  of  our  friends — we  cannot  fight  our  enemies. 
Those  will  suffer  for  our  neglect  of  a  sacred  duty,  and 
these  will  come  and  devour  us."  They  were  mdeed 
"  in  a  strait."  So  clearly  did  they  see  that  prayer  and 
revenge  held  no  affinity.  Mr.  Perkins  strove  to  restrain 
and  preserve  them  from  violence,  and  was  successful 
to  some  extent ;  but  a  deep  wound  was  inflicted  that 
has  never  been  healed.  How  true  it  is,  "one  sinner 
destroyeth  much  good !"  Our  hearts,  pious  reader, 
were  filled  with  sorrow  to  see  the  souls  of  our  care  thus 
wasted ;  but  we  still  hoped,  and  determined  to  labour 
for  things  that  appertained  to  salvation. 

The  Indians  were  now  all  engaged  in  the  salmon 
harvest,  and  we  met  with  them  in  their  salmon  houses 
at  the  Dalls.  These  are  only  temporary,  and  are  re- 
moved when  the  fishing  season  ends.  Sometimes  within, 
and  at  others  we  used  to  assemble  them  without,  under 
the  shadow  of  the  elevated  rocks.  One  sabbath,  in  the 
month  of  August,  soon  after  my  return  from  Vancouver, 
as  above  stated,  taking  horses,  Mrs.  Lee  and  myself 
rode  to  the  Dalls,  to  meet  the  people  for  worship ;  and 
assembled  them  in  the  open  air,  where  they  sat  upon 
the  ground  while  they  listened  to  the  truths  of  God. 
Having  held  two  meetings  with  them,  in  which  we 
felt  to  say  like  Peter  on  the  mount,  "  It  is  good  for  us 
to  be  here,"  we  got  upon  our  horses  and  set  off  for 
home.  We  had  rode  nearly  half  way,  and  were  moving 
slowly  along,  when  the  tramp  of  horses  behind  ap- 
prized us  that  we  were  not  alone ;  and  looking  around 
we  saw  five  Indians  galloping  toward  us.  They  soon 
came  up,  and  several  of  them  had  muskets,  and  one 
reining  his  horse  close  to  mine,  laid  hold  of  my  bridle : 


« 


dis- 
had 
eace 
now 
other 
from 
e  the 
mies. 
,  and 
ideed 
sr  and 
strain 
essful 
d  that 
sinner 
eader, 
re  thus 
labour 

salmon 
houses 


moving 

|ind  ap- 

around 


^'L' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


243 


no  sooner  was  his  hold  broken  than  it  was  seized  by 
another  on  the  other  side.  By  this  time  it  was  sup- 
posed that  war  was  the  only  alternative,  and  Mrs.  Lee 
was  directed  to  ride  to  the  house,  it  being  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant.  Now  the  relator  was  "  alone  in  his 
glory !"  "  What  is  this  ?"  said  he,  for  he  knew  them, 
"  What  do  you  mean  ?"  One  replied,  "  We  do  hot 
want  to  quarrel,  but  a  talk.  Our  brother  that  lived  with 
Mr.  Perkins  is  dead,  and  our  hearts  are  troubled ;  we 
want  a  blanket ;  Mr.  Perkins  (not  truth)  promised  us 
one  when  you  came  back."  "  That  is  notning  to  me ; 
if  Mr.  Perkins  has  made  a  promise  he  will  do  it, — that 
is  his  business."  Finding  they  could  neither  lie  nor 
awe  me  into  compliance,  they  left  me  a  lone  conqueror, 
and  giving  rein  to  their  horses,  they  flew  over  the  plain 
at  the  top  of  their  speed, — and  myself  at  their  heels 
about  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  to  a  divide  in  the  trail, 
where  they  parted  company,  and  left  me  to  proceed 
alone  to  the  mission  house.  Being  aware  of  their  inten- 
tions toward  our  band  of  horses,  a  man  was  sent  imme- 
diately on  my  coming  to  bring  them  up. 

And  now  for  the  rescue.  Mrs.  Lee  had  come  post 
haste,  and  the  news  of  the  war  had  roused  the  martial 
spirit  of  Dr.  Babcock  and  Mr.  Brewer,  and  they  had 
taken  arms,  and  were  ready  to  take  the  field,  when  the 
messenger  came  with  news  of  victory !  Our  joy  at  this 
moment  was  soon  a  little  abated ;  wr  the  man  arrived 
who  had  been  sent  after  the  horses,  and  reported  that 
the  conquered  Indians  had  captured  the  best  horse  in 
the  band !  The  boy  about  whose  death  this  affair  took 
place  had  been  sent  away  from  Mr.  P.  for  bad  conduct, 
and  soon  after  he  was  taken  sick  and  died.  Mr.  P. 
was  with  him  and  administered  medicine  to  him  in  his 
sickness.  He  appeared  to  evince  some  grounds  of 
hope  in  Christ,  and  requested  his  relatives  not  to  trou- 
ble Mr.  Perkins,  after  his  death.  If  one  who  chanced 
to  die  had  been  in  our  employ  recently,  or  died  with  us 
on  a  journey,  they  would  try  to  make  us  pay  for  him : 
difficulties  often  grew  from  this  cause,  because  we 


i-4'! -Vll!  ' 


■*m 


iX  l< ! 


244 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


wholly  denied  any  claim  on  this  score,  and  we  would 
not  fix  an  annoying  precedent. 

Mr.  Brewer  took  charge  of  the  farm  at  the  station, 
and  had  raised  about  fifty  bushels  of  wheat ;  the  season 
having  been  dry,  it  had  suffered  much  from  the  drought. 
Dr.  Babcock  in  his  attention  to  the  sick  had  lightened 
the  burden  of  Mr.  Perkins  and  myself  very  much,  and 
we  were  anticipating  pleasant  days  in  each  other's 
society  and  the  efficient  performance  of  our  work  in  its 
several  departments ;  but  these  hopes  did  not  long  shed 
their  cheering  light  around  us,  as  will  soon  appear. 
But  before  this,  soon  after  my  return  from  Vancouver, 
Mr.  P.  and  his  family  had  gone  to  the  Walamet ;  and 
during  their  absence  they  were  sick  with  the  intermit- 
tent fever,  and  two  of  their  crew  of  Indinas  died  at 
Walamet ;  while  a  third  was  left  in  the  hands  of  the 
doctor.  These  trials  delayed  their  return  several  days, 
and  subjected  them  to  many  inconveniences ;  but  hav- 
ing secured  others  in  place  of  those  whom  they  left,  to 
work  the  canoe,  they  at  length  returned  in  safety  to  the 
Dalls  in  September.  Previous  to  this.  Dr.  Babcock 
had  gone  to  Fort  Vancouver  to  give  Mrs.  Babcock  the 
benefit  of  a  journey  for  the  improvement  of  her  health, 
expecting  to  return  in  a  short  time.  Soon,  however, 
after  reaching  the  fort,  an  express  met  him  from  Mr. 
Jason  Lee,  bound  to  the  Dalls,  directing  him  to  remove 
imtnediately  to  the  Walamet  station,  as  his  services 
were  greatly  needed  among  the  sick.  In  compliance 
with  these  directions  he  hurried  on  to  the  Walamet. 
This  movement,  so  unexpected,  greatly  thwarted  our 
plans  and  expectations  at  the  Dalls,  and  left  us  agahi 
without  a  physician.  This  was  owing  to  the  removal 
of  Dr.  White  firom  his  connection  with  the  mission  and 
his  departure  to  the  United  States.  At  this  time  the 
intermittent  fever  prevailed  at  that  station,  and  Mrs. 
Jason  Lee  was  also  attacked  with  the  bilious  remittent 
fever,  which  was  near  proving  fatal;  and  from  the 
effects  of  which  she  probably  never  recovered.  The 
family  of  Mr.  Parrish  was  visited  in  the  removal  by 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


245 


death  of  his  oldest  son.  The  prevalent  sickness  very 
much  retarded  the  work  which  had  been  attempted,  and 
the  saw-mill  which  was  being  erected  made  slow 
advances.  Messrs.  Lee  and  Hines  had  explored  the 
Umbaqua  country,  and  found  the  establishment  of  a 
mission  there  wholly  impracticable.  Next  month,  Octo- 
ber, Mr.  J.  Lee  visited  the  Dalls  station,  the  affairs  of  the 
Walamet  having  prevented  his  doin^  it  at  an  earlier 
time,  which  circumstance  operated  unfavourably  on  the 
minds  of  the  people,  who  had  indulged  a  strong  desire 
to  see  him,  and  expected  he  would  nave  come  to  see 
them  long  before.  A  camp  meeting  was  now  held,  and 
it  was  a  time  of  blessed  influence  on  many  hearts — not 
more  than  one-third  or  one-fourth  as  many  attended 
as  at  the  first.  The  power  and  presence  of  God  were 
in  the  midst,  and  his  love  was  manifestly  shed  forth  in 
enlarged  measures.  Evidences  appeared  to  cheer  our 
troubled  spirits,  and  we  "  thanked  God  and  took  cou- 
rage !"  Some  of  the  Wallah-wallahs  among  whom  Mr. 
Perkins  had  been  preaching  were  here  admitted  to  bap- 
tism, and  the  Lord's  supper  was  administered.  Those 
days  of  labour  and  enjoyment  will  not  soon  be  forgot- 
ten. Would  that  the  good  then  apparent  had  continued 
and  inceased,  then  had  their  peace  been  perpetuated  as 
a  river ! 

Our  blessed  meeting  now  closed,  and  Mr.  J.  Lee 
and  myself  returned  to  Walamet ;  and  my  wife,  who 
was  going  there  to  spend  the  winter,  accompanied  us. 
Having  encountered  the  usual  barriers  of  the  voyage, 
the  waves,  and  winds,  and  Cascades,  and  portages,  and 
the  like,  we  at  length  reached  our  destination  in  safety, 
thankful  that  none  of  the  disasters  of  the  journey  had 
been  of  any  serious  character. 

Here  we  enjoyed  the  social  circle  of  our  beloved  ones 
for  several  days  with  much  relish  :  and  then,  leaving 
Mrs.  Lee  and  his  friends  here,  the  writer  returned  to 
the  Dalls,  taking  up  a  cargo  of  supplies  from  Vancou- 
ver. The  trip  was  performed  with  the  share  of  diffi- 
culties common  to  this  inclement  season,  midst  drench- 


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246 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


ing  rains,  high  winds,  and  pinching  frosts.  Sometimes 
-we  were  flying  with  our  blanket  sail  before  the  wind, 
and  again  were  compelled  to  land  among  the  breakers, 
with  canoe  and  cargo  half  under  water.  Having  se- 
cured our  lading  above  the  reach  of  the  waves,  and 
hauled  up  our  canoe,  wet  from  head  to  foot,  and  our 
fingers  stinging  with  the  cold,  we  fly  to  the  covert  of 
the  neighbouring  rocks  or  willows  to  elude  the  freezing 
blast,  and  make  a  fire  to  dry  our  garments.  Here  we 
forget  the  dangers  past,  and  quietly  enjoy  our  good  fire, 
not  forgetting  to  keep  our  stomachs  in  an  agreeable  hu- 
mour, till  the  fu]^  of  the  wind  abates  so  as  to  permit 
us  to  proceed.  We  are  glad  to  come  to  our  "  desired 
haven,"  where,  standing  on  the  solid  ground,  we  look 
back  with  wonder  and  gratitude  upon  the  dangers  we 
have  escaped.  It  was  now  November,  and  the  natives 
were  all  located  in  their  winter  quarters.  This  winter 
the  number  of  the  Indians  at  the  Dalls  occupied  much 
of  our  time — meetings,  and  attention  to  their  calls,  and 
administering  to  their  sick,  which  we  did  uniformly  as 
far  as  lay  in  our  power.  Mr.  Perkins  also  made  a  voy- 
age to  Walamet  m  December,  and  in  the  latter  part  of 
January  it  became  necessary  for  the  writer  to  accom- 
pany Dr.  Babcock  to  that  station.  He  had  been  on  a 
professional  visit  at  this  place,  and  a  daughter  was 
added  to  Mr.  Perkins's  family  on  the  18th.  There  had 
been  an  unusual  fall  of  snow,  and  a  degree  of  cold  sel- 
dom known  in  Oregon,  the  Quicksilver  falling  to  18^^ 
below  zero.  The  river  was  frozen  half  way  down  to 
the  Cascades,  and,  to  reach  that  point,  it  was  necessary 
to  make  a  journey  over  land  twenty  miles.  It  was  im- 
portant that  the  doctor  should  leave ;  but,  being  a  new 
hand,  it  was  thought  proper  for  the  writer  to  go  with 
him  on  this  new  expedition.  Arrangements  were  ac- 
cordingly made,  consisting  of  a  small  quantity  of  pro- 
visions, fire-works,  an  axe,  a  kettle,  and  our  blankets. 
Snow  covered  the  ground  to  the  depth  of  several 
inches.  We  now  bid  our  friends  farewell,  and  started 
on  our  tramp,  two  whites  and  four  Indians.    We  found 


T£N  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


S47 


the  snow  deep  upon  the  hills,  but  fast  melting ;  so  that 
the  hollows  and  runs  were  full  of  water,  and  little 
creeks  were  swollen  into  threatening  torrents.  Across 
one  of  these  we  felled  a  tree  that  stood  on  its  bank,  which 
served  as  a  bridge  on  which  some  of  us  crossed,  keep- 
ing our  balance  with  a  pole,  resting  one  end  on  the  bot- 
tom of  the  stream,  while  the  rest  seized  the  bridge 
with  their  hands,  holding  on  to  it  till  they  had  waded 
across  on  the  lower  side.  Going  on  we  came  to  the 
point  of  a  rocky  bluff  that  almost  overhung  the  river, 
and  so  steep  that  we  could  scarcely  hang  upon  it,  not 
without  fears  that  some  misstep  might  precipitate  us 
into  the  depths  below.  A  little  further  we  came  to  a 
deep  gorge,  and  at  first  we  thought  that  our  only  way 
now  was  to  cut  hazels  and  fasten  them  together,  and 
drop  ourselves  down  the  precipice  by  them  upon  the 
rocky  shore  that  now  lay  between  it  and  the  river ;  but 
on  looking  around,  we  discovered  a  way  along  the  de- 
clivity, by  which  we  descended  in  safety.  Suffice  to 
say,  we  reached  our  object,  a  river  without  ice  ;  hired 
a  canoe  of  the  Indians  ;  passed  the  Cascades  in  good 
order ;  encountered  a  field  of  ice  above  Vancouver 
without  damage ;  stemmed  the  current  of  the  Walamet 
to  the  mission,  and  then  closed  our  journey  in  a  hearty 
welcome  to  our  families  and  friends. 

Here  a  watch-night  had  been  held  at  the  close  of  the 
year,  and  a  happy  state  of  religious  feeling  prevailed. 
Several  whites  had  been  converted  since  the  arrival  of 
the  last  reinforcement.  Mr.  Hines  was  teaching  the 
mission  school  with  some  success.  Mrs.  Leslie  was 
fast  failing,  and  died  in  February,  1841 .  She  had  been 
in  Oregon  between  four  and  five  years,  suffered  a  large 
amount  of  sickness  with  patience  and  submission,  and 
died  a  bright  witness  for  God  in  the  triumphs  of  faith, 
leaving  five  daughters,  three  of  whom  came  with  her 
to  the  country,  and  her  husband,  to  mourn  their  loss. 
Her  funeral  sermon  was  preached  by  Mr.  J.  Lee,  on 
those  encouraging  words,  2  Cor.  iv,  17 :  "  For  our 
light  affliction,  which  is  but  for  a  moment,  worketh  for 


II 


%m\ 


mk. 


248 


T£N  YEARS   IN  OREGON. 


U8  a  far  more  exceeding  and  eternal  weight  of  glory." 
There  rests  her  dust,  till  the  trump  of  God  awake  it  to 

§lory  and  immortality.  "  Blessed  are  the  dead  who 
ie  in  the  Lord !" 

March  23d.  Wilbur  Fisk,  son  of  Daniel  and  Maria 
T.  Lee,  was  born.  The  writer  will  add  that  it  was  a 
day  of  gladness  and  thanksgiving  to  the  parents. 

About  this  time  several  matrimonial  alliances  were 
solemnized.  Mr.  J.  L.  Whitcomwas  married  to  Mrs. 
Susan  Shepard,  widow  of  the  late  Mr.  Shepard ;  Mr. 
J.  Holman  to  Miss  Almira  Phelps ;  and  Mr.  David 
Carter  to  Miss  Orpha  Lankton,  all  in  obedience  to  that 
law  which  requires  every  son  of  Adam  to  wed  a  daugh- 
ter of  Eve. 

On  Monday,  May  10th,  we  held  our  first  annual 
meeting,  which  contmued  in  much  harmony  nearly  two 
weeks.  Mr.  Hines  was  appointed  superintendent  of 
the  Oregon  Mission  Manual  Labour  School ;  Mr.  Leslie 
to  the  settlement ;  Mr.  Waller  to  the  Walamet  Falls ; 
Messrs.  Kone  and  Frost  to  Chenook ;  Dr.  Richmond 
to  Nesqually,  and  myself  at  the  Dalls.  The  meeting 
ended,  we  were  ready  to  return  to  the  several  posts 
assigned  us,  and  soon  prepared  to  leave.  Mr.  Carter 
had  been  hired  several  months  at  my  station,  and  now 
returned  with  me,  taking  his  newly-married  lady  with 
him.  Taking  an  affectionate  leave  of  our  friends,  we 
manned  our  two  canoes  for  the  voyage,  and  hastened 
back  to  our  station.  The  Columbia  was  at  its  height, 
and  the  current  very  strong,  and  the  sun  poured  its 
scalding  rays  upon  us.  The  labour,  and  risk,  and  anx- 
iety in  passing  the  Cascades  were  immense.  The  car- 
goes had  to  be  unloaded  and  reloaded  not  less  than  six 
times.  In  passing  the  canoe  up  the  bad  water,  two 
men  are  in  it,  one  at  the  stern  and  the  other  at  the  bow, 
having  strong  setting  poles  to  keep  it  off  the  rocks ; 
and  a  rope  is  fastened  to  the  head,  fifty  yards  long, 
which  is  manned  by  four  or  five  men,  and  thus  it  is 
drawn  up.  But  now,  as  it  sometimes  happens,  we 
capsized  one  of  our  canoes,  and  damaged  it  on  the 


TEN   TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


249 


rocks.  Wc  however  soon  repaired  the  breach,  and 
moved  on  again.  But  with  the  Cascades  we  did  not 
leave  all  our  dangers,  and  Mrs.  L.,  particularly,  suf- 
fered much  from  fear.  The  winds  were  boisterous 
and  the  waves  ran  high,  and  at  one  time  we  were  com- 
pelled to  land  in  order  to  escape  the  fury  of  the  blast, 
and  the  being  dashed  upon  the  rocks  ahead ;  but  we 
escaped  with  only  a  wetting. 

Saturday,  June  5th,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  station 
at  dusk ;  but  the  current  was  too  strong  for  us  to  at- 
tempt the  ascent  with  our  cargoes  without  daylight. 
We  now  went  ashore  and  encamped.  After  making 
all  snug,  myself  and  Mrs.  Lee  went  oa  in  our  now 
light  canoe,  while  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carter  remained  in 
camp,  and  reached  our  house  before  twelve  o'clock, 
where  we  were  gladly  received  by  our  friends,  and 
were  not  a  little  thankful  for  our  safe  return. 

On  Monday  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carter  joined  us,  and  now 
we  were  four  families  to  bear  ourselves  up  in  our  .oils 
and  trials,  and 

Each  to  feel  hia  brother's  care,  .  ^ .  * 

And  each  the  other's  burden  bear. 

Timber  for  a  barn  had  been  prepared  by  Mr.  Carter ; 
and  now  he  put  up  the  frame,  assisted  by  Mr.  Brewer 
and  myself.  This  with  the  roof  he  finished  during  the 
summer,  besides  helping  Mr.  Brewer  in  harvest,  and 
assisting  in  laying  up  a  log  meeting-house  thirty  by 
forty  feet,  which  was  much  needed  for  winter.  The 
farm  produced  this  year  a  good  supj.Jy  of  wheat,  and 
a  fine  crop  of  potatoes  ;  but  to  get  oui  wheat  ground 
we  had  to  go  to  Fort  Vancouver  mill,  a  journey  of 
seventy-five  miles,  and  make  two  portages  at  the 
Cascades. 

When  we  came  back  from  Walamet,  myself  and 
family  had  yet  a  house  to  fit  up  for  our  accommoda- 
tion. This  could  not  be  done  the  preceding  year  for 
the  want  of  lumber ;  but  during  the  winter  we  had 
procured  the  sawing  of  some.    It  will  be  recollected 

11* 


,! '  a 


:  ti 

It. 

1 

'I  I 


'■  ii 


250 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


;i       * 


that  our  sawing  here  was  all  done  with  whip  saws. 
Mr.  Carter  had  done  something  toward  the  house  pre- 
viously to  his  going  to  the  Walamet,  and  he  lent  a  hand 
now  to  finish  what  he  had  begun.  But,  besides  these, 
there  were  many  things  remained  for  myself  and  Mrs. 
Lee  to  do  to  make  it,  not  to  say  comfortable,  but  as  near- 
ly so  as  we  could.  It  consisted  of  a  room  ten  feet  wide 
by  twenty  long,  having  on  one  side  a  pantry  and  an 
entry,  which  occupied  an  additional  space  of  five  by 
ten  feet,  and  on  the  other  side  a  chimney  and  fire-place, 
with  a  closet  on  one  side  and  a  stairway  on  the  other 
two  and  a  half  feet  wide.  Here  we  had  to  set  up  a 
small  cook-stove,  and  then  furnished  our  room  with 
two  stools  which  I  had  had  made  in  earlier  days  ;  and 
besides  this,  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Perkins  had  supplied 
me  with  more  than  half  a  chair,  which  was  repaired, 
and  we  esteemed  it  a  great  luxury.  After  this  was 
added  a  table,  and  then  a  settee,  and  the  room  was  used 
for  a  great  many  things,  a  kitchen,  wash-room,  parlour, 
bed-room,  etc.,  etc.  Over  this  was  a  chamber  of  the 
same  dimensions,  which  was  neatly  fitted  up  for  a  sleep- 
ing-room. These  rooms  were  lighted  with  two  win- 
dows each.  Mr.  Perkins's  family  occupied  the  other 
part  of  the  house  of  the  same  dimensions.  This  sum- 
mer we  received  a  visit  from  Mr.  Jason  Lee  and  his 
wife,  who  was  in  very  poor  health.  They  had  before 
this  been  down  to  Clatsop  station  on  her  account,  and 
hoped  that  the  voyage  to  this  place  would  prove  bene- 
ficial and  promote  her  recovery.  She  occupied  our 
chamber,  and  we  used  every  effort  in  our  power  to  ren- 
der her  comfortable.  During  this  visit  he  had  a  vio- 
lent attack  of  the  ague  and  fever,  and  my  companion 
and  myself  strove  to  alleviate  his  sufferings.  We  felt 
thankful  that  we  could  do  anything  for  those  we  so 
much  loved.  During  their  visit,  Messrs.  Clark  and 
Littlejohn,  Mr.  Smith  and  Mr.  Munger,  arrived  from 
Wallah-wallah,  going  to  the  Walamet ;  their  wives  were 
with  them.  Our  interview  with  them  was  very  agree- 
able, and  while  they  tarried  we  enjoyed  some  profitable 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


251 


^ti 


seasons  of  social  and  public  worship ;  and  when  they 
resumed  their  journey  our  hearts  went  with  them. 

The  time  had  now  come  when  our  beloved  guests 
and  relatives  must  leave  us  and  return  to  the  Walamet 
station.  We  felt  it  was  painful  parting,  for  it  was  very 
probable  we  were  taking  the  last  fond  look,  and  so  it 
proved  in  the  case  of  Mrs.  J.  Lee.  She  was  seated  on 
horseback,  and  the  writer  walked  at  her  side  half  a  mile 
to  the  shore,  where  she  was  helped  into  the  canoe ;  the 
parting  farewell  was  exchanged,  and  soon  they  were 
gliding  down  the  Columbia,  and  we  returned,  saying 
one  to  the  other,  She  will  meet  us  here  no  more  ! 

Not  long  after  this,  Mr.  Perkins  and  his  wife  set  out 
for  the  Walamet.  When  they  reached  the  falls,  Mrs.  P. 
remained  at  Mr.  Waller's,  and  he  went  on  to  the  upper 
station  with  Mr.  Waller  on  horseback.  Returning  they 
had  a  severe  time  in  ascending  the  Columbia,  at  the 
most  dangerous  and  uncomfortable  season  in  the  year ; 
but  through  the  care  of  Him  who  tempers  the  wind  to 
the  shorn  lamb,  they  returned  in  safety.  Of  the  society 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carter  we  had  been  deprived  some 
time,  as  they  had  removed  to  the  Walamet.  They 
were  valuable  Christian  friends.      ^  1    ; 

Our  log  meeting-house  we  were  not  able  to  finish. 
We  once  got  up  the  rafters,  but  a  high  wind  arose  and 
they  were  blown  down.  We  much  needed  a  place 
where  we  could  meet  the  people  for  prayers,  and  as- 
semble them  on  the  sabbath  days ;  and  the  want  of 
such  accommodations  kept  many  at  their  houses,  and 
made  our  meetings  small ;  and,  to  provide  for  these,  an 
addition  of  a  block  of  twelve  by  twenty  feet  was  made 
to  that  part  of  my  house  occupied  by  Mr.  P.,  which 
was  fitted  up  for  a  place  of  meeting.  Here  we  held 
prayers  with  the  people  morning  and  evening,  and 
preached  to  them  on  the  Lord's  day.  In  general  our 
time  was  so  taken  up  in  procuring  lumber,  building, 
canoeing  to  Vancouver  and  Walamet  to  bring  up  the 
necessary  supplies  and  get  our  milling  done,  relieving 
the  sick  among  the  Indians,  doing  the  work  of  servants 


i,  Wi 


^'^ 


it1: 


252 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


in  our  own  families,  and  in  attending  to  the  religious 
services  mentioned  above,  as  to  prevent  our  performing 
that  amount  of  itinerant  labour  which  the  wants  of  the 
people  demanded.     Besides  these  things,  we  devoted  a 
part  of  our  time  to  the  study  of  the  language.    That 
we  could  not  visit  all  the  people  as  often  as  was  neces- 
sary for  their  good,  was  a  very  serious  disadvantage  to 
them,  and  a  source  of  affliction  to  ourselves ;  and  among 
many  it  was  the  cause  of  disaffection,  leading  many  to 
neglect  to  hear  even  when  an  opportunity  was  enjoyed. 
The  Indian  doctors  resumed  their  practices,  and  a  large 
proportion  returned  to  their  former  vices.     For  our  own 
benefit  we  had  one  discourse  in  English  on  the  sabbath, 
and  a  prayer  meeting  in  the  evening ;  and  in  the  week 
on  Tuesday  evening  a  concert  prayer  meeting  with  the 
Presbyterian  missionaries,  which  was  proposed  by  the 
writer  soon  after  their  arrival  in  Oregon,  and  in  which 
we  laid  our  common  cause  before  the  God  of  missions ; 
and  our  class  meetings  on  Thursdays.     Mr.  Perkins 
and  myself  took  turns  in  preaching  on  the  sabbath ; 
and  when  we  were  visited  by  Mr.  Jason  Lee  or  any  of 
the  other  preachers,  we  had  the  benefit  of  their  in- 
structions, which  was  a  privilege  we  highly  prized. 
Located,  as  we  were,  in  the  great  thoroughfare  from 
the  interior  to  the  lower  country,  we  often  had  calls 
from  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  as 
they  were  passing  up  and  down  in  their  boats,  between 
fifteen  and  twenty  almost  every  year.    These  boats  are 
moved  with  oars,  being  manned  with  from  four  to  six 
men,  and  take  forty  packages  of  ninety  pounds  weight 
each,  besides  the  outfit  and  provisions  of  the  crew. 
Those  also  emigrating  to  the  Walamet  Valley  from  the 
States  and  the  mountains,  all  called  here,  and  gave  us 
an  opportunity  from  time  to  time  to  remind  them  of  a 
better  and  a  heavenly  country,  to  which  their  attention 
should  be  directed.      Sometimes  they  came  to  us  in 
want,  and  it  was  a  great  pleasure  to  us  that  we  had  the 
means  of  affording  them  any  aid,  worn  out  as   they 
were  with  the  toils  and  hardships  of  their  protracted 


1    I,    'if 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


253 


journey.  We  trust  that  some  of  them  will  praise  God 
in  heaven  for  the  'vords  of  eternal  life  which  they  were 
permitted  to  hoar  while  with  us.  One  of  these,  who 
was,  he  said,  "  going  to  the  Walamet  to  stay  provided 
money  grew  on  the  bushes ;  but  if  not,  he  was  going 
to  California,"  was  in  a  few  months  after  brought  to 
see  that  religion,  not  money,  was  the  thing  he  wanted, 
and  immediately  he  began  to  cry  unto  God  in  the  dis- 
quietness  of  his  soul,  and  continued  many  days  in  deep 
distress,  till  God  spoke  peace  to  his  troubled  heart.  In 
the  month  of  March,  1842,  a  daughter,  an  only  child, 
was  born  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jason  Lee  at  Walamet ;  but 
this  joyful  occurrence  was  destined  to  be  soon  followed 
with  deep  sorrow ;  for  in  a  few  weeks  the  mother  was 
suddenly  removed  by  death.  Thus  were  the  fountains 
of  grief  opened  again,  before  they  were  scarcely  yet 
dried  up,  on  account  of  a  similar  bereavement,  in  the 
bleeding  heart  of  the  stricken  husband,  smitten  with 
breach  upon  breach.  Did  not  the  Lord  uphold  his  ser- 
vant ;  enabling  him  to  say,  "  Though  he  slay  me,  yet 
will  I  trust  in  him  ?"  We  all  deeply  sympathized  with 
him,  and  felt  ourselves  painfully  bereU  oi  a  dear  rela- 
tive and  sister.  Thus  did  the  Lord  deal  with  his  ser- 
vants, giving  tears  in  abundance ;  but  blessed  be  his 
name !  they  were  mingled  with  gratitude  in  the  assu- 
rance we  felt  that  she  had  entered  into  rest,  and  in  the 
hope  that  we  too  should  in  due  time  follow  her  there, 
where  "  all  is  calm,  and  joy,  and  peace,"  and 

i..  "  All  the  ship's  company  meet, 

''  Who  Bail'd  with  our  Saviour  below." 

February  29th,  it  became  necessary  for  myself  and 
Mrs.  L.  to  make  a  voyage  to  Fort  Vancouver.  So 
leaving  our  friends  at  the  Dalls  we  embarked  in  a  canoe 
with  a  crew  of  four  Indians,  with  our  provisions,  blan- 
kets, bedding,  and  all  the  etceteras,  for  a  trip  of  weal  or 
wo,  sunshine  and  storm.  The  winter  seemed  past, 
so  fine  was  the  day,  and  the  singing  of  birds  had 
almost  come.     Having  loaded  in  our  baggage,  we 


M       1^1 


!\ 


^4 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


arranged  a  convenient  seat  as  near  the  middle  and  bot- 
tom of  the  canoe  as  we  could,  and  then  seated  our- 
selves side  by  side,  facing  the  bow,  with  our  little  boy 
almost  a  year  old  in  our  arms,  two  Indians  before  and 
two  aft.  And  now,  the  reader  may  see  us  gliding 
down  the  river,  the  white  paddles  as  they  are  lifted 
from  the  water  glistening  in  the  sun,  and  hear  their 
measured  rap  on  the  side  of  the  canoe.  Everything 
seemed  to  smile  a  pleasant  voyage,  and  a  quick  return; 
but  a  few  miles,  and  the  winds  arose,  the  waves  ran 
high,  the  sky  assumed  a  scowling  face,  and  the 
turbulent  waters  threatened  us  with  destruction,  if  we 
dared  to  proceed.  Again  and  again  did  we  escape 
their  wrath  by  flying  to  the  welcome  shore  for  refuge  ; 
and  when  they  had  spent  their  force,  and  the  wind 
made  a  pause  for  breath  to  blow  again,  we  hastened 
from  our  hiding  pL'  3s,  and  hurried  on.  It  rained 
copiously  and  long,  rained  till  it  snowed.  There  was 
a  deep  fall:  when  we  made  the  portage  at  the  Cascades 
it  w-is  a  foot  in  depth,  and  more.  When  we  encamped, 
we  first  scraped  away  the  snow  and  set  up  our  tent, 
and  at  the  same  time,  some  of  the  crew  made  a  fire  a 
litt'o  in  front,  and  then,  being  provided  with  mats,  some 
of  them  were  spread  down  in  the  tent,  and  over  them  an 
oilcloth  to  guard  our  bedding  against  the  dampness. 
Sometimes  the  rain  would  almost  extinguish  the  fire, 
it  fell  in  such  profusion.  In  this  way,  after  battling 
the  elements  nine  days,  we  reached  our  destination  in 
safety,  a  journey  of  eighty  miles,  and,  through  the 
blessing  of  God,  all  in  good  health  and  spirits.  We 
were  intending  when  we  left  the  Dalls  to  visit  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Frost  at  Clatsop;  but  the  length  of  time  occupied 
in  getting  to  this  place  prevented  our  doing  it.  At  the 
fort  we  were  received  with  the  usual  kind  attentions, 
and  after  resting  a  little,  and  transacting  the  objects  of 
our  visit,  we  set  off  on  our  return ;  which  we  found 
more  agreeable  than  our  downward  voyage.  We 
reached  our  home  on  the  night  of  the  18th  of  March,  at 
twelve  o'clock,  having  journeyed  from  the  Cascades  in 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


255 


one  day,  fifty  miles,  and  enjoyed  with  our  friends  a 
mutual  thanksgiving  for  our  safe  return. 

March  21st,  we  held  another  camp  meeting  with  the 
Indians.  The  number  who  attended  at  this  meeting  was 
much  fewer  than  at  either  of  the  other  two ;  yet  it  was 
attended  with  good  to  many.  Some  were  powerfully 
reclaimed  from  a  backslidden  state.  From  all  we 
witnessed  at  this  meeting,  our  hearts  were  greatly 
encouraged  to  hope  in  God.  There  is  not  a  Christian 
among  us,  had  he  been  present,  but  would  have  said, 
"  God  is  in  this  place !"  More  earnest  prayers,  the 
writer  believes,  were  never  offered,  nor  answers  to 
prayers  more  evident  than  were  witnessed  here.  A 
nappy  state  of  things  followed  for  some  time ;  till  at 
length  difficulties  arose,  and  the  love  of  most  of  those 
who  had  been  blessed  at  the  camp  meeting  waxed  cold 
again.  Thus  were  the  spirits  of  the  missionary  band 
elevated  with  hope,  and  then  depressed  with  disap- 
pointment, so  frequent  were  the  fair  blossoms  of  pro- 
mise cut  off!  Soon  after  the  camp  meeting  Messrs. 
Lee  and  Leslie  arrived  from  Walamet,  now  com- 
panions in  sorrow.  They  had  been  husbands,  but  now 
no  kind  snarer  of  their  joys  and  woes  waited  their 
return!  We  felt  afflicted  in  their  afflictions,  and 
favoured  in  their  ministrations  of  the  blessed  gospel. 
When  they  left,  the  writer  accompanied  them  to  the 
Walamet.  As  we  passed  along  the  Cascades,  Mr.  Leslie 
showed  me  the  place  in  the  rapids  where  he  and  Mrs. 
White  so  narrowly  escaped  drowning  in  1838.  The 
remembrance  of  that  event  almost  chilled  his  blood, 
even  at  so  late  a  period.  We  reached  the  Walamet  in 
safety.  Our  second  yearly  meeting  now  commenced, 
and  continued  several  days  in  much  harmony.  During 
the  year,  Mr.  Kone  had  returned  to  the  United  States. 
Mr.  Hines  remained  this  year  in  connection  with  the 
Oregon  Mission  Manual  Labour  School,  as  superinten- 
dent, and  preacher  to  the  Walamet  settlement.  Mr. 
Frost  at  Clatsop,  Dr.  Richmond  at  Nesqually,  Mr. 
Waller  at  Walamet  Falls,  and  myself  at  the  Dalls,  and 


Sm 


A 


M 


256 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Mr.  Perkins,  my  colleague,  as  formerly.  Mr.  Leslie 
was  left  without  an  appointment  in  order  to  provide  for 
his  family,  by  putting  his  three  elder  daughters  in 
school  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  or  return  with  all  his 
children  lo  the  States,  or  otherwise,  as  providence  should 
direct.  The  writer  now  returned  to  the  Dalls.  During 
his  absence  Dr.  Babcock  and  Mr.  Raymond  and  their 
wives  had  come  to  the  station  from  the  Walamet,  and 
a  daughter  had  been  added  to  the  family  of  Mr.  Ray- 
mond, and  another  to  the  family  of  Mr.  Brewer,  and  Dr. 
Babcock  had  relumed  to  the  Walamet,  leaving  Mr. 
Raymond  and  family,  who  also  followed  soon  after  my 
return. 

It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  meet  my  fellow-labourers 
again,  and  find  them  and  my  family  well.  Itinerating 
among  the  people  employed  most  of  my  time  during 
the  months  of  June  and  July.  Mrs.  Lee  accompanied 
me  one  week  at  the  Dalls,  where  our  time  was  em- 
ployed in  devotional  exercises  with  the  natives,  in  which 
they  were  often  called  together  to  preaching  and  prayers. 
Some  appeared  to  manifest  a  good  degree  of  religious 
interest,  and  our  own  souls  were  happy  in  the  efforts 
we  made  to  do  them  good. 

In  August  went  to  Walamet  with  my  family,  to  which 
a  second  son  was  added  on  the  7th  of  September. 
During  our  stay  here  Mrs.  Lee  suffered  much  from  the 
fever  and  ague,  as  did  our  little  boy  Wilbur  also,  and 
myself.  At  the  same  time  a  blessed  revival  took  place 
in  the  mission  school,  and  a  goodly  number  were  power- 
fully converted,  or  reclaimed,  and  in  its  after  progress 
some  whites  and  several  Owyhees  were  gathered  in, 
and  a  very  happy  state  of  religious  enjoyment  continued 
to  pervade  the  school  throughout  the  winter  following. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brewer  from  the  Dalls,  on  a  visit  here, 
returned  with  us  when  we  went  back,  and  we  were 
glad  of  their  company  along  our  liquid  path.  About 
the  time  we  went  to  Walamet,  Mr.  Leslie,  Dr.  Rich- 
mond and  family,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Whitcom  and  their 
children,  left  for  the  United  States.    Mr.  Leslie  took 


'.tSL 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


257 


two  of  his  daughters  with  him,  leaving  his  eldest,  who 
was  married  to  Mr.  Cornelius  Rogers,  and  her  two 
younger  sisters  in  her  care.  They  sailed  from  the 
Walamet  River  in  August.  In  September  a  body  of 
emigrants  crossed  the  mountains  from  Missouri,  con- 
sisting of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  persons,  men, 
women,  and  children.  Dr.  E.  White,  formerly  of  the 
Oregon  mission,  came  over  with  them,  now  sub  Indian 
agent  of  the  United  States  to  Oregon. 

In  November  the  writer  went  again  to  the  Walamet, 
and  returned  to  the  Dalls  on  the  30th,  accompanied 
by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Littlejolm  and  Mr.  Geiger,  going  to 
the  interior  missions ;  and  Dr.  White,  and  Messrs. 
Cornelius  Rogers  and  Thomas  M'Kay,  bound  there 
on  an  agency  to  the  Indians.  The  evening  of  our 
arrival  there  was  an  eruption  of  Mount  St.  Helen; 
and  the  next  morning  the  ejected  ashes  were  falling 
with  a  mist-like  appearance,  covering  the  leaves,  fences, 
and  stones,  with  a  light,  fine,  gritty  substance,  in 
appearance  like  hoar  frost,  some  specimens  of  which 
were  collected.  The  volcano  was  over  one  hundred 
miles  distant,  due  north  from  the  junction  of  the  Wala- 
met with  the  Columbia,  and  west  of  north-west  from 
the  Dalls.  In  ascending  the  Columbi  at  this  lime  we 
were  much  retarded  by  strong  head  winds,  and  an  un- 
usual degree  of  cold  prevailed,  and  considerable  ice 
formed  along  the  shores.  The  men  had  to  make  them- 
selves mittens.  In  three  days  we  had  not  proceeded 
fifteen  miles.  We  lay  by  over  one  sabbath,  and  had 
preaching  and  prayers ;  and  every  morning  and  evening 
we  found  it  good  to  draw  near  to  God.  Our  safe  return 
again  was  a  cause  of  mutual  gladness.  Here  we  were 
happy  to  meet  with  Mrs.  Marcus  Whitman,  who  spent 
the  winter  with  us.  Mrs.  Littlejohn  also  tarried  till 
after  Christmas.  Their  Christian  society  was  highly 
prized.  Mr.  Littlejohn,  and  the  Indian  agent,  and 
Messrs.  Rogers  and  M'Kay,  came  back  from  the  inte- 
rior before  Christmas.  It  was  an  interesting  sabbath- 
day.    The  Lord  was  in  our  midst.    Next  sabbath,  New- 


'    M 


■  )•  i!: 


.;:  t 


m 


dMi... 


258 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


year's,  the  Lord's  supper  vras  administered,  and  it  was 
a  season  of  refreshing  to  our  souls.  On  Monday,  2d, 
Mr.  Perkins's  family  received  the  addition  of  a  daughter. 
Thus  did  the  Lord  in  various  ways  manifest  his  love 
and  kindness  toward  his  needy  servants. 

The  first  and  second  sabbaths  of  February  Mr.  J. 
Lee  was  with  us,  and  the  preaching  of  the  word  and 
the  holy  communion  were  rendered  a  blessing  to  cur 
souls.  The  name  of  the  Lord  be  praised  for  the  blessed 
privileges  he  permitted  us  to  enjoy  from  time  to  time 
m  that  desert  land !  During  his  visit  there  was  a  re- 
markable fall  of  snow ;  and  for  many  days  the  people 
were  mostly  confined  to  their  houses. 

One  sabbath  morning  two  men  came  for  a  coffin  and 
a  shroud  to  bury  a  child  that  had  died  the  previous 
night;  but  as  it  was  not  in  our  power,  nor  our  practice, 
to  furnish  these  things,  we  refused  their  application. 
They  wanted  us  to  be  at  charges  for  them ;  and  rather 
than  to  foot  the  bill  themselves,  they  would  have  neither 
one  nor  the  other.  They  would  like  to  have  their  friends 
decently  interred,  provided  we  would  do  it,  and  it  should 
cost  them  nothing.  They  were  told  that  the  thing  was 
never  known  that  strangers  among  any  people  should 
be  required  to  bury  that  people's  dead !  and  that  the 
white  men,  and  the  Kinse  and  Wallah-wallah  Indians, 

{)aid  for  coffins  and  grave  clothes ;  and  that  it  was  man- 
ike  to  do  so,  and  mean  to  do  otherwise.  They  now 
made  a  long  harangue,  to  which  a  number  that  had 
collected  around  Hstened  with  mute  attention ;  but  no 
one  seemed  at  all  excited  but  themselves,  and  feeling 
themselves  not  very  popular  in  the  auditory,  they 
brought  their  vociferating  eloquence  to  a  c' jse,  having 
exhausted  their  munitions  and  conquered  their  two 
warriors ! 

The  snows  were  much  longer  in  leaving  us  this  year 
than  usual,  and  the  people  were  confined  to  their  houses 
so  long  that  it  became  the  cause  of  much  more  sick- 
ness among  them  than  usual.  There  was  ice  in  the 
river  till  the  13th  of  March.    On  the  morning  of  the 


TEN  YEABS  IN  OREGON. 


259 


6lh  the  quicksilver  fell  to  6°  below  zero.  Four  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company's  boats  were  eleven  days  in 
reaching  this  station  from  Vancouver ;  and  here  they 
were  detained  nine  days  more  with  the  ice.  Much  of 
my  time  was  employed  in  attention  to  the  sick,  some 
in  the  study  of  the  language,  to  which  Mr.  P.  devoted 
himself  constantly.  The  usual  meetings  among  the 
natives,  and  our  English  services,  were  continued. 

Sabbath,  12th.  The  writer  spoke  to  the  Indians  on 
the  parable  of  the  marriage  of  the  king's  son.  Matt, 
xxii;  and  Mr.  P.  preached  in  English  on  "Let  us 
search  and  try  our  ways." 

Monday,  April  3d.  Mrs.  Whitman,  whose  society 
we  had  enjoyed  since  October,  left  us  to  return  to 
Wailetpu.  She  had  endeared  herself  greatly  to  us, 
and  we  regretted  to  part  with  her.  But  these  things 
**  must  needs  be,"  ana  we  bend  our  will  to  the  will  that 
our  heavenly  Father  appoints. 

On  Thursday,  27th,  Mrs.  Lee  rode  to  the  shore  to 
visit  a  sick  woman,  and  as  she  was  crossing  a  creek 
into  which  the  back  water  from  the  river  set  up,  she 
suddenly  found  her  horse  plunged  into  water  swimming 
deep,  when  she  instantly  dropped  the  reins  and  seized 
the  mane,  and  thus  escaped  to  shore,  the  distance 
being  but  a  few  yards.  There  were  several  paths 
leading  down  to  the  creek,  and  she  took  one  too  near 
the  river.  We  were  thankful  that  nothing  more  serious 
followed  than  a  transitory  alarm,  and  an  unwelcome 
drenching.  Early  in  May,  Mr.  Hines  and  Dr.  White 
arrived  from  the  Walamet,  and  Mr.  P.  went  with  them 
to  the  interior. 

On  the  9th,  taking  my  family,  we  started  to  attend 
the  yearly  meeting  at  the  Walamet  Falls.  Mrs.  Lee's 
health  had  been  suffering  for  many  months,  and  only 
the  preceding  day  she  had  a  violent  attack  of  the  fever 
and  ague,  brought  on  by  over-exertion  in  making  the 
necessary  preparations  for  the  voyage.  On  our  pas- 
sage, at  the  Cascades,  where  we  got  next  day  at  twelve 
o'clock,  she  was  again  prostrated  in  a  violent  paroxysm, 


1. 1 


i 


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f'ii'i 


Vt 


260 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


^:t\ 


and  after  waiting  till  it  had  somewhat  abated  at  the 
head  of  the  portage,  she  walked  to  the  foot  of  the  rapids, 
three  miles.  Next  day  we  reached  Vancouver,  and 
ascended  the  Walamet  about  three  miles,  where  we 
passed  the  night. 

Friday,  12th.  Pursued  our  way  up  the  river.  The 
day  was  very  hot,  and  the  sun  scorched  our  heads  as 
a  blast  from  a  furnace.  To  Mrs.  L.  the  heat  seemed 
scarcely  endurable ;  the  fever  ran  higher  than  in  any 
previous  attack,  and  while  she  lay  in  the  canoe,  scarce- 
ly able  to  raise  a  hand,  we  landed  and  made  a  bower 
over  her  to  avert  the  beams  of  the  sun,  and  thus  secured 
a  shade,  which  was  a  great  relief.  We  reached  the 
falls  about  5  o'clock,  P.  M.,  when  she  was  yet  hardly 
able  to  go  up  to  the  house  unassisted,  which  was  but  a 
few  rods  distant.  Mrs.  Waller  received  us  very  kind- 
ly, Mr.  W.  being  absent.  Here  we  were  also  glad  to 
meet  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frost,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Abernethy, 
and  other  friends.  By  the  time  our  meeting  closed, 
Mrs.  L.  had  partially  recovered  from  the  ague  and 
fever,  and  as  soon  as  things  could  be  put  in  train,  we 
bid  all  here  farewell,  and  set  our  faces  toward  the 
Dalls  again. 

The  Lama,  Capt.  Nye,  we  found  at  Vancouver,  hav- 
ing just  arrived  with  new  supplies  for  the  Oregon  Mis- 
sion. To  Capt.  N.  and  his  lady  we  were  introduced 
by  Mr.  Leslie,  who  returned  passenger  with  him  from 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  he  had  left  his  two  daugh- 
ters at  school.  We  now  pursued  our  way  to  the  Dalls, 
where,  after  traversing  the  river  and  the  portages  at  the 
Cascades  at  the  time  of  high  water,  and  suffering  the 
assaults  of  thousands  of  moschetoes,  we  were  glp.d  to 
arrive  once  more  in  safety,  looking  upon  our  return,  as 
we  had  long  been  wont  to  do,  as  a  great  temporal  sal- 
vation, so  many  were  the  dangers  with  which  we  were 
continually  surrounded  in  the  navigation  of  these  waters. 
In  these  waters,  the  Columbia  and  its  branches,  we 
may  record  more  than  thirty  deaths  by  drowning  in 
five  years  preceding  the  writer's  departure  from  Ore- 


^iiJhdL. 


.'I 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


261 


we 


as 


gon.  '  During  this  time,  adding  a  few  months,  he  has 
canoed  twenty  times  up  and  down  the  Walamet,  four 
times  from  Vancouver  to  Chenook,  and  thirty-two  times 
between  Vancouver  and  the  Dalls,  not  less  together 
than  four  thousand  miles.  If  any  one  has  reason  to  be 
thankful,  he  has  more ;  and  would  here  mark,  and  ac- 
knowledge the  hand  of  God  in  his  preservation. 

As  it  regards  the  rehgious  state  of  the  natives  at 
this  station,  the  writer  has  aimed  to  give  a  correct 
though  brief  statement ;  and  here  he  will  add  what  he 
has  to  say  further  on  this  subject. 

Of  the  mass  it  may  be  said  that  three-fourths  and 
more  appeared  careless  and  indifferent  about  the  teach- 
ings of  the  gospel,  and  many  of  these  were  even  against 
hearing  it  preached,  that  they  might  go  on  in  their 
heathenish  practices,  and  in  direct  opposition  to  its 
commands,  unrestrained.  But  they  are  not  singular  in 
this — would  they  were  ;  for  how  many  in  this  Chris- 
tian land,  reader,  do  the  same  ?  W^hy  ?  Because  they 
hate  good  and  love  evil,  and  that  conscience  may  sleep 
over  their  sins !  The  remainder  were  those  that 
latterly  composed,  for  the  greater  part,  our  congrega- 
tions ;  and  among  these  some  were  found  who  contin- 
ued to  use  the  means  of  grace,  and  who,  so  far  as 
could  be  known,  were  endeavouring  to  follow  the  light 
they  had  received ;  but  against  these  some  arose  to 
laugh,  and  ridicule,  and  mock.  Such  was  the  state  of 
the  people  at  the  time  the  writer  left  the  country,  in 
regard  to  the  direct  tendencies  of  missionary  labour 
among  them. 

Doubtless  the  presence  and  labours  of  the  missiona- 
ries there  have  also  prevented  bloodshed,  and  relieved 
many  in  sickness,  and  improved  the  condition  of  many 
by  the  introduction  of  better  clothing.  Many  have 
been  taught  the  use  of  the  needle.  A  number  of  the 
girls  were  for  a  length  of  time  weekly  attendants  at  our 
house,  where  Mrs.  Lee  taught  them  this  art.  The  cruel 
custom  of  flattening  infants'  heads  still  prevails,  though 
some  have  in  a  few  instances  been  dissuaded  from  it 


1  m 


262 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREOON. 


Another  case  may  be  related  more  at  length.*  It  is 
that  of  Harriet  Newell,  of  the  Chenook  tribe,  sister  to 
Wm.  Brooks,  who  came  to  the  United  States  with  Mr. 
Jason  Lee  in  1838.  She  had  been  about  seven  years 
in  the  mission  family,  and  first  enjoyed  peace  with  God 
at  the  revival  in  1839.  But  after  a  time  she  lost  what 
she  had  found,  and  lived  in  that  state  much  of  the  time 
till  the  late  revival,  when  she  recovered  her  enjoyment, 
and  never,  it  is  believed,  lost  it  more.  She  was  intel- 
ligent, and  read  and  spoke  English  fluently.  But  she 
had  endured  much  suflering  from  that  very  afflicting 
diease  so  common  in  this  country,  the  scrofula,  for 
several  years;  and  lately,  for  some  months,  it  had 
preyed  upon  her  lungs,  and  gave  unequivocal  evidence 
that  her  end  was  near.  But  now,  as  the  lamp  of  life 
burnt  low,  she  appeared  to  grow  in  grace,  and  to  wait 
patiently  and  joyfully  for  her  change.  Her  last  words, 
a  short  time  before  she  died,  were,  "  All  is  well !  All 
is  well !  All  is  well !"  Happy  for  you,  O  reader,  if, 
when  your  hour  to  die  shall  come,  you  too  can  exclaim, 
"  All  is  well !" 

The  first  camp  meeting  among  the  whites  in  Oregon 
was  held  in  the  Walamet  Valley,  Tu-al-a-tin  Plain,  in 
July,  1843.  Of  nineteen  unconverted  persons,  fifteen 
professed  to  find  pardon  and  "  peace  with  God  through 
our  Lord  Jesus  Christ !" 

Ride  on,  O  Immanuel ;  from  every  heart  the  **  clouds 
and  darkness  chase !"  And  let  Oregon  be  saved ! 
Amen  !  Even  so  come.  Lord  Jesus  !  And  the  glory 
shall  be  to  the  Father,  and  Son,  and  Holy  Ghost ! 

It  may  be  useful  to  relate  here  a  remarkable  conver- 
sion which  took  place  at  the  Walamet  Mission  in 
1840.  The  subject  of  it  was  an  American,  one  of  a 
family  who  were,  it  is  believed,  all  pious  with  this 
single  exception ;  and  he  had  explored  the  region  of 
doubt,  read  its  musty  volumes  for  years,  and  sat  dovm 
in  its  gloomy  shades.  But  the  God  of  love  undertook 
his  case ;  and  a  wound  received  in  his  foot  cutting  an 
arteiy,  which  continued  to  bleed  again  and  again,  tiU  he 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


963 


was  reduced  almost  to  a  shadow,  was  the  means  of 
bringinff  him  under  religious  influences,  and  saving  his 
soul.  The  writer  called  upon  him  before  this  event, 
and  it  was  clear,  that  though  he  was  deeply  afflicted, 
he  yet  saw  not  the  hand  that  did  it,  that  wrote  over 
against  him  on  the  wall,  "Weighed  and  wanting!" 
My  visit  was  followed  soon  after  by  a  letter,  an  answer 
to  which  I  received  from  him  soon  after  his  conversion. 
An  extract  from  it  shall  be  here  subjoined. 

••v;..:>'  ■    ...         ..: 

"  Walametj  January  12,  1841. 

"  Having  so  far  recovered  my  strength  as  to  be  able 
to  ride  to  this  place  in  two  days,  (meaning  the  Wala- 
met  Mission,)  I  arrived  here  in  the  same  state  of  feeling 
as  when  you  visited  me.  My  mind  was  full  of  enmity 
against  God  and  man.  The  world  appeared  to  me  a 
vast  desert,  in  which  was  nothing  desirable.  Life 
seemed  a  curse,  and  I  had  no  hope  beyond  it.  Although 
weary  of  skepticism,  I  felt  no  disposition  to  believe  in 
God,  or  in  his  word ;  at  least,  not  until  I  had  again  in- 
vestigated the  whole  subject.  But  through  his  mercy, 
and  the  prayers  and  exhortations  of  my  friends  here, 
my  mind  became  powerfully  exercised,  and  unbelief 
began  to  give  way.  I  made  an  effort  to  believe  in  God. 
I  called  on  his  name,  and  I  soon  found  a  degree  of 

feace  of  mind  and  love  to  him  and  all  mankind,  which 
had  never  known  before.  I  thank  God  through  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ  for  his  mercy  to  sinners,  of  whom  I 
am  chief.    Yours,  &c., 

"  Robert  Shortess."  > 

Did  not  the  Lord's  people  know  that  he  was  with 
them  ?  Every  convert  is  a  witness  of  God  to  his  peo- 
ple of  the  verity  of  these  blessed  words,  "  Lo  I  am 
with  you  alway ;"  and  a  goodly  number  of  such  wit- 
nesses did  he  raise  up  from  time  to  time,  in  the  green 
vale  of  the  "Walamet.  To  his  name  be  all  the  praise 
for  ever !  The  mention  of  some  happy  deaths  m  the 
mission  school  at  Walamet  cannot  but  interest  the  pious 


mm 


'V"  1[; 


# 


264 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


reader.  A  lad  of  the  Calapooya  tribe,  who  had  been 
named  David  Kilburn,  and  was  living  in  the  enjoyment 
of  religion,  was  suddenly  removed  by  death  caused  by 
a  blow  he  accidently  received  on  his  head,  which  so 
greatly  injured  the  brain  as  to  destroy  life  in  a  short 
time.  This  was  in  the  winter  of  1843,  following  the 
good  work  before  mentioned.  Another  happy  death 
was  that  of  Emehne  Porter:  she  was  of  the  same  tribe. 
She  was  converted  in  the  beginning  of  the  revival,  and 
lived  and  died  a  Christian.  She  endured  her  sickness 
with  submission,  and  died  in  triumphant  peace. 

Having  returned  to  the  Dalls,  as  before  stated,  it  was 
soon  found  that  Mrs.  Lee,  on  account  of  her  feeble 
health,  required  my  attention  nearly  the  whole  time, 
and  there  was  no  good  ground  to  hope  that  she  would 
scon,  or  ever,  recover,  under  the  continuance  of  existing 
circumstances.  She  greatly  needed  a  season  of  rest  to 
recruit  her  prostrated  strength,  and  which  she  could  not 
have  here,  where  the  call  for  her  labours  was  constant 
and  imperative.  Besides,  her  nervous  system  had  also 
suffered  material  injury  from  the  many  exciting  causes 
which  had  surrounded  us  for  years  here,  and  which 
continued  to  increase;  and  its  improvement  demanded 
a  change  of  place,  where  medical  aid  might  be  asso- 
ciated with  quietness  and  rest.  For  us  to  remain  longer 
in  the  mission  promised  nothing  advantageous  to  its 
interests,  while  at  the  same  time  it  threatened  our  own 
with  evils  which  we  might  well  dread.  To  avoid  them 
there  appeared  but  one  way,  and  it  was  believed  that 
duty  required  us  to  embrace  it.  Therefore  the  resolu- 
tion was  made  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity to  return  to  the  United  States.  /.  year  has 
ntkssed  away  since,  yet  no  cause  of  regret  has  arisen  on 
the  account;  but  otherwise  God  has  approved  the 
course  we  have  pursued.  It  was  the  last  of  July  when 
we  began  our  preparations  to  leave.  Wednesday  morn- 
ing, August  2d,  the  writer  preached  to  the  little  band 
at  the  Dalls,  and  then  enjoyed  with  them  the  commu- 
nion of  the  Lord's  supper,  in  hope  of  drinking  with 


^v 


'ii    'fl 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


265 


asso- 

longer 

to  its 


them  the  "  new  wine  of  the  kingdom,"  where  our  ce- 
mented hearts  should  no  more  be  rent  asunder.  Pre- 
cious to  us  were  those  dear  ones  with  whom  in  sorrow 
and  in  joy  we  had  so  long  been  associated.  Scarcely 
were  ever  heart-strings  so  strongly  entwined  together. 
At  the  dusk  of  evening  we  were  all  ready  to  embark  in 
our  canoe,  which  was  to  transport  us  on  board  the  vessel 
in  which  we  were  to  lepve  the  country.  We  now  took 
an  afTectionate  leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Perkins,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Brewer,  and  stepped  into  our  canoe  to  make 
our  last  voyage  down  the  Columbia ;  passed  the  Cas- 
cades with  lightened  hearts  that  we  should  be  exposed 
to  their  toils  and  dangers  no  more ;  and  touched  at 
Fort  Vancouver  on  business,  and  to  take  our  last  look 
at  our  friends  there,  to  whose  kindness  we  had  been 
much  indebted.  Saturday  morning  went  on  board  the 
bark  Diamond,  Capt.  Fowler,  from  England,  bound  to 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  where  we  had  engaged  our  pas- 
sage. Here  Mrs.  Lee  remained  while  the  writer  went 
to  the  Walamet  Falls,  to  close  up  his  business  with 
the  mission.  He  reached  there  on  Saturday  night, 
preachea  on  Sunday,  and  left  again  on  Monday.  It 
was  hard  parting  with  Messrs.  Waller  and  Abernethy, 
and  their  wives,  and  other  friends.  Peace  be  with 
them!  Sabbath,  August  13th.  The  vessel  had  arrived 
at  Fort  George,  and  Mr.  Jason  Lee  and  myself  preached 
at  Mr.  Birnie's.  This  was  the  last  sabbath  we  spent 
together.  While  we  were  here  the  kind  hospitalities 
of  Mr.  James  Birnie's  house  were  very  generously 
served  up  for  our  entertaiam  :nt.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frost, 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Babcock,  with  their  families,  were  here, 
and  with  myself  passengers  of  the  Diamond.  Mrs. 
Dr.  Whitman  was  also  here,  having,  with  Mr.  Leslie, 
accompanied  me  from  the  Walamet  on  a  visit. 

Tuesday,  15th.  We  took  leave  of  our  friends,  and 
embarked  on  our  voyage.  In  Baker's  Bay  we  were 
detained  till  the  following  Monday,  August  21st,  when 
we  crossed  the  bar,  and  sailed  for  California,  where 
the  bark  was  to  toucli  on  her  way  to  the  Islands. 

12 


¥V-' 


i    •!§, 


|:r'n 


'w 


266  TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON.       . 

Farewell !  Oregon,  "  Far  West," 
Land  of  my  exile,  may  you  ever  be  blest: 
Land  of  my  toil,  anxiety,  pain; 
Land  which  my  foot  shall  not  press  again ; 
Land  where  mercy,  kindness,  love. 
In  showers  have  blest  me  from  above ! 
Farewell,  all  ye  tribes 
And  aliens  residing, 
Who  down  your  smooth  streams 
To  eternity  are  gliding : 

Farewell ! 


, ,  CHAPTER  XXII. 

..f 

Voyage  of  Mr.  Frost  and  family  from  Vancouver  to  Astoria — Murders 
committed — A  body  of  Indians  arrive  to  protect  the  settlement — One  of 
the  murderers  is  shot — Another  of  them  is  hun^ — Mr.  Frost  and  others 
visit  Mr.  Smith  at  Clatsop  Plains — Indian  motner  and  her  child — Mr. 
Frost  visits  Walamet  Mission  and  returns — Barbarous  act  by  the  Indians- 
Indian  trick — Mission  family  establish  themselves — Extract  from  Mr. 
Frost's  journal — His  labours  among  the  Indians — Salmon  feast — Indian 
tradition. 

Having  received  an  invitation  from  Mr.  Bimie  at 
Astoria  to  bring  my  family  down  and  take  up  lodgings 
with  him  until  a  house  was  furnished  for  our  accommo- 
dation, and  as  we  felt  very  anxious  to  commence  our 
labours  among  the  Indians  lo  whom  we  had  been  sent, 
we  got  all  things  in  readiness,  and  on  the  3d  of  August 
bid  adieu  to  our  kind  friends  at  Vancouver,  who  accom- 
panied us  to  the  river  shore,  where  we  embarked,  with 
all  our  effects,  on  board  of  a  row-boat  which  was  fur- 
nished for  the  purpose  by  the  kindness  of  Dr.  M'Laugh- 
lin,  and  manned  by  two  Canadians  and  two  Hawaians, 
and  set  off  for  Astoria,  leaving  none  but  Mr.  Abernethy 
and  family,  Mr.  Raymond  and  Miss  Philips,  at  Van- 
couver. These  gentlemen  were  engaged  in  shipping 
the  mission  goods  on  board  of  the  company's  barge  for 
the  Walamet,  and  Miss  Philips  was  in  a  feeble  state 
of  health,  having  fallen  from  a  horse. 
'^  It  was  drawing  toward  evening  when  we  com- 
menced our  voyage  down  the  Columbia,  and  felt  that 


.m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


267 


"we  were  now  entirely  separated  from  those  with  whom 
we  had  been  so  intimately  connected  for  nearly  a  year, 
under  very  interesting  and  continually  varying  circum- 
stances. This  thouglit,  in  connection  with  the  fact 
that  we  were  now  upon  an  expanse  of  waters  in  a  frail 
bark,  with  no  covering  to  screen  us  from  the  scorching 
sun  by  day,  nor  from  the  chilling  damps  by  night,  and 
not  knowing  what  disaster  might  befall  us  before  we 
should  reach  our  destination,  caused  a  momentary 
gloom  to  pass  over  the  mind,  not  entirely  dissimilar  to 
that  which  broods  over  the  lone  orphan  while  the  last 
loved  relative  is  about  entering  the  precincts  of  the 
dead.  But  recollecting  that  hundreds  had  preceded  us 
upon  the  same  track,  even  as  far  back  as  the  days  of 
Hunt,  M'Kenzie,  M'Tavish,  and  John  Reed  with  his 
"tin  box,"  all  navigating  the  same  stream,  and  who 
knows  that  it  was  not  upon  the  same  water,  which,  hav- 
ing performed  its  regular  rounds  over  the  face  and 
through  the  bowels  of  the  earth  and  the  surrounding 
atmosphere,  was  now  hastening  in  its  downward  course 
to  mingle  with  the  briny  particles  of  the  vast  Pacific 
again — these  thoughts,  in  connection  with  the  consider- 
ation that  our  predecessors  had  passed  here  at  that 
time  when  the  very  trees  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
must  have  appeared  more  wild,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
savages  of  whom  they  were  in  continual  danger,  and 
that  they  were,  in  all  probability,  actuated  by  selfish 
motives  only,  while  we  were  going  forth  bearing  pre- 
cious seed,  though  weeping,  had  the  promise  of  return- 
ing again  with  rejoicing,  bearing  our  sheaves  with  us — 
dispelled  the  clouds,  and  produced  a  serenity  of  feeling 
which  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who  enjoy  it. 
We  proceeded  about  eight  miles  when  gray  twilight 
had  succeeded  the  setting  sun,  and  Mount  St.  Helen, 
standing  to  the  north-west  of  us,  with  her  towering  top 
covered  with  the  snows  of  ages,  appeared  as  thougn 
she  had  just  arranged  her  white  nignt-cap,  indicative  of 
her  inclination  to  retire  to  rest.  We  too  were  weary, 
and  directed  our  men  to  go  ashore  that  we  might  pre- 


^  m 


'r  vm 


'4fiil  ^ 


m 


<i> 


y%'  Ij 


f 


\  1 ,1 


liJ  *f 


268 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


pare  for  repose,  which  was  accordingly  done ;  and  we 
prepared  our  bed  by  laying  down  .aome  mats  in  our  de- 
partment of  the  boat,  which  was  square  in  form, 
placing  thereon  our  bed,  and  when  properly  adjusted, 
our  bed-room  would  have  been  by  no  means  unpleasant, 
only  for  the  want  of  a  roof.  But  the  sky  was  uncloud- 
ed, and  the  atmosphere  rather  exhilarating,  so  that, 
after  we  were  fairly  stowed  away,  it  was  decided  that 
a  very  comfortable  night's  rest  might  be  reasonably 
anticipated  ;  and  our  anticipations  would  have  no  doubt 
been  realized,  had  it  not  been  for  an  innumerable  night- 
ly band  which  soon  came  hovering  over  our  unglazed 
window  for  the  purpose  of  serenading.  We  listened 
to  their  music,  but  felt  a  little  apprehensive  that  it  might 
be  their  design  to  lull  us  to  sleep  with  their  plaintive, 
melting  tones,  and  then,  like  a  greedy  gang  of  highway- 
men, fall  upon  us  pell-mell,  and  rob  us  of  every  drop 
of  blood  in  our  veins.  We  had  scarcely  interchanged 
a  word  in  respect  to  the  anticipated  danger,  when,  all 
at  once,  we  were  pierced  as  with  a  thousand  barbed 
arrows.  Be  not  alarmed,  dear  reader.  They  were 
not  the  arrows  of  our  Indian  neiglibours,  but  of  a  more 
blood-thirsty  race,  whici  are  called  by  the  savages 
*^  oopoonoochickchick"  and  in  our  less  barbarous  lan- 
guage "  moschetoes.^*  Our  calculations  for  the  night 
were  now  entirely  broken  up ;  and  in  order  that  the 
rest  of  the  family  might  sleep,  I  engaged  to  sit  up  with 
a  fan,  and,  as  far  as  possible,  keep  these  whining  in- 
truders out  of  the  room.  And  if  our  fair  readers  find 
it  as  difficult  at  any  time  to  keep  themselves  comforta- 
bly cool  during  a  sultry  summer's  day  in  their  parlours 
with  their  fans,  as  the  writer  found  it  to  discharge  his 
duty  that  night  with  his,  he  most  sincerely  sympathizes 
with  them. 

Night  passed  away,  and  with  it  our  tormentors  disap- 
peared ;  and  as  we  had  a  fine  run  the  following  day,  we 
reached  the  lowermost  of  the  Cathlamet  Islands  :  here 
we  tied  our  boat  to  a  branch  of  a  tree  which  extended 
over  the  water,  and  as  it  began  to  rain  wo  rigged  a 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


269 


a 


temporary  tent  of  sheets  over  us  and  enjoyed  a  good 
night's  rest,  the  sea-breeze  having  confined  the  insect 
tribes  to  their  marshy  dwellings.  The  next  morning 
we  met  with  a  cordial  welcome  from  Mr.  Birnie  and 
family  in  time  for  breakfast.  And,  as  I  find  it  recorded 
in  my  journal,  so  we  would  here  record  our  gratitude 
to  our  heavenly  Father,  for  our  safe  arrival  at  the  place 
which  was  to  be  the  field  of  our  future  labour.  We  ar- 
rived on  the  6th,  and  from  this  until  the  9lh  we  were 
engaged  in  arranging  a  few  of  our  things  for  the  present 
comfort  of  the  family,  as  Mr.  Birnie  had  kindly  fur- 
nished us  with  a  room  for  our  present  use. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  Mr.  Solomon  Smith  ar- 
rived, with  his  family  from  the  Walamet,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  setthng  near  the  missionary  post  that  might  be 
erected  here.  This  was  cause  of  joy  on  our  part,  inas- 
much as  he  professed  religion,  and  his  wife  was  a 
Clatsop  woman,  and  knew  something  concerning  the 
true  God,  which  was  a  ground  for  hope  that  they 
might  prove  subservient  to  the  interests  of  the  mission, 
besides  augmenting  our  small  circle  of  society. 

This  being  the  sabbatli,  I  preached  to  the  souls  com- 
posing our  three  families,  and  one  young  man  besides, 
from  Job  xxi,  15. 

On  the  10th  Mr.  Birnie,  Smith,  and  myself  crossed 
over  to  Young's  Bay  in  search  of  a  location  where  our 
neighbour  Smith  might  make  a  farm,  but  returned 
without  deciding  upon  any  particular  spot  lllh,  com- 
menced getting  the  Checalish  and  Chenook  languages, 
and  Mrs.  Frost  employed  part  of  her  time  in  teaching 
Mr.  Birnie's  children,  of  which  he  had  six  very  inter- 
esting daughters  living  at  home,  and  one  little  son,  five 
of  whom  were  capable  of  receiving  instruction,  which 
with  our  little  son  constituted  the  school. 

On  the  even'Tig  of  the  12th  we  had  an  eclipse 
of  the  moon,  which  was,  by  my  time,  at  its  height  about 
lOh.  30ra.  in  the  evening.  This  eclipse,  according  to 
my  Almanac,  was  at  its  height,  in  the  latitude  of  Albany 
and  New- York,  at  Ih.  51m.  on  the  morning  of  the  13th. 


;.'  \m 


iij  (f 


■^•■' 


270 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Mr.  Smith  and  family  left  us  for  the  purpose  of 
visiting  the  Clatsop  Plain.  Disturbance  among  the 
Indians.  Several  killed  in  their  quarrels.  16th,  preached 
from  John  xii,  26,  my  congregation  consisting  of  Mr. 
B.'s  family  and  my  own ;  but  we  would  not  despise  the 
day  of  small  things.  -' 

At  this  time,  one  of  the  Canadians  who  came  with 
us  from  Vancouver  expressed  a  desire  to  go  up  to 
Pill»r  Rock,  to  see  if  all  was  well  with  the  man  at  the 
salmon  fishery,  the  same  that  had  the  goodness  to  tow 
up  our  canoe  for  us  on  a  former  occasion,  and  who  at 
that  time  expressed  much  satisfaction  in  view  of  the 
prospect  of  having  a  missionary  in  the  neighbourhood, 
and  of  being  permitted  to  attend  divine  service  on  the 
sabbath,  when  the  salmon  season  should  close,  and  he 
return  to  Astoria.  But  what  must  have  been  our  feelings 
when  about  nightfall,  as  Mr.  B.  and  myself  were  walk- 
ing on  the  platform,  to  behold  the  young  Canadian , 
hastening  up  from  the  bank  of  the  river,  almost  breath- 
less, with  horror  depicted  in  his  countenance,  and  as 
soon  as  he  came  within  speaking  distance,  to  hear  him 
utter  this  thrilling  sentence,  "  WKay  is  murdered  P* 
M'Kay  was  the  man  before  mentioned,  as  having 
charge  of  the  fishery  at  the  above  place.  He  was  a 
native  of  Scotland  or  the  Orkney  Islands.  The  young 
man  stated,  that  when  he  arrived  at  the  fishery,  he 
saw  no  one,  and  all  was  silent,  so  much  so  that  he  sus- 
pected that  all  was  not  right.  Being  alone  in  a  small 
canoe,  he  hastened  to  haul  it  on  shore,  and  ran  to  the 
tent,  and  then,  to  his  utter  dismay,  he  beheld  poor 
M'Kav  completely  perforated  with  a  musket  ball,  and 
literally  surrounded  with  a  mass  of  coagulated  blood ! 
It  appeared  that  the  fatal  ball  passed  through  his  body, 
entering  the  br^^ast  and  coniing  out  at  the  back,  while 
his  senses  were  locked  up  in  sleep,  depriving  him  of 
life,  apparently,  without  any  other  struggle  on  his  part 
but  simply  a  contraction  of  the  muscles.  But  this  did 
not  close  the  horrid  scene  :  the  young  man  thought  of 
the  little  Indian  boy  who  was  with  M'Kay,  and,  upon 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


271 


looking  around,  beheld  the  poor  little  fellow  lying  a 
short  distance  from  the  tent,  dead  also,  having  had  his 
body  ripped  open  with  a  knife  !     Having  finished  these 
bloody  acts,  the  murderers  had  robbed  the  tent  of  the 
property  it  contained,  and  made  their  escape.    Fearing 
lest  they  might  be  skulking  in  the  wood  near  at  hand, 
the  young  man  hastened  to  put  the  body  of  the  mur- 
dered man,  and  the  tent,  in  a  large  canoe  belonging  to 
the  place,  and  made  his  way,  with  all  speed,  to  com- 
municate the  sad  intelligence  to  us,  as  above.     We 
went  to  the  water  side,  and  had  the  corpse  brought  up 
and  deposited  in  a  room,  according  to  the  directions  of 
Mr.  Birnie,  and  on  the  following  day,  which  was  a  dark 
day  to  us,  and  a  gloomy  commencement  of  our  mis- 
sionary work,  we  deposited   the  lifeless  body  in  the 
tomb  in  accordance  with  the  custom  of  our  church. 
Thus  was  he,  who  hoped  to  enjoy  the  gospel  privileges 
in  time  to  come,  cut  off  in  the  midst  of  his  years,  be- 
fore his  fond  expectations  were  realized,  and  buried  in 
a  strange  land,  without  one  relative  to  weep  over  his 
untimely  end.     Reader,  dost  thou  reckon  upon  long 
life,   and   anticipate   the   enjoyment   of  gospel  privi- 
leges in  days  to  come,  but  neglectest  to  make  thy  peace 
now  with  God  ?     Take  heed  :  "  Be  ye  also  ready ;  for 
in  an  hour  that  ye  think  not,  the  Son  of  man  cometh." 

Immediately  after  the  body  was  brought  down  from 
the  fishery,  Mr.  Birnie  despatched  a  canoe  with  a  let- 
ter to  Vancouver,  and  another  canoe  to  request  Chena- 
mas,  the  Chenook  chief,  who  had  proved  himself  a 
friend  to  the  white  man,  to  come  over  with  his  men  to 
guard  the  house,  lest  it  might  prove  to  be  a  gang  of 
Indians  who  had  committed  the  murder,  and  being  in- 
tent upon  more  blood  and  plunder,  they  might  come 
and  cut  us  off,  as  they  had  the  devoted  inmates  of  the 
tent. 

Chenamas  received  the  intelligence,  and  as  soon  as 
the  wind  and  tide  would  permit,  which  was  not  until 
late  at  night,  we  heard  the  strokes  of  many  paddles 
upon  the  sides  of  canoes  approaching  from  the  opposite 


f 


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272 


T£N  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


side  of  the  river,  and  in  a  few  minutes  more  the  old 
chieftain,  with  fifteen  or  twenty  of  his  warriors,  stood 
upon  the  platform.  They  were  each  armed  with  musket 
and  knife,  and  after  being  supplied  with  fresh  ammuni- 
tion, and  abundantly  regaled  with  biscuit  and  molasses, 
declared  themselves,  in  the  true  spirit  of  their  former 
chief  Comcomly,  whose  bones  were  deposited  near 
at  hand,  to  be  now  ready,  as  he  had  been  in  years 
gone  by,  to  protect  this  dwelling  place  of  their  white 
neighbours  against  the  invasions  of  every  anticipated 
foe.  And  that  dark  portentous  brow,  and  fire-like 
flashing  eye,  exhibited  by  the  brother  of  the  chief  while 
in  consultation  with  the  other  warriors,  with  reference 
to  the  probable  perpetrators  of  the  cold-blooded  mur- 
ders, will  never  be  forgotten  by  one  who  witnessed 
those  scenes ;  if  anything  earthly  ever  indicated  re- 
venge, it  was  that  fixed  ferocious  look. 

The  night  passed  away,  while  many  a  heavy  sigh 
escaped  upon  the  wings  of  the  gentle  sea  breeze  from 
our  lodgment  upon  the  spot  where  m^ny  anxious  hearts 
and  wakeful  eyes  had  long  since  been  enclosed  within 
the  stockading  of  the  original  fort,  of  which  there  was 
not  a  vestige  now  to  be  seen ;  and  at  length  the  morning 
sun  returned,  to  remind  us  of  the  goodness  of  his  Creator, 
who  had  watched  over  ms,  his  feeble  children,  during 
his  absence ;  and,  as  it  were,  pointed  us  to  the  promises 
of  his  precious  Word,  which  shall  all  be  as  invariably 
fulfilled,  in  behalf  of  those  who  humbly  trust  in  him,  as 
the  visits  of  this  bright  morning  messenger. 

All  nature  now  put  on  a  smile,  and  nothing  among 
the  surrounding  objects  of  creation  indicated  the  least 
unhappii^ess,  save  the  pearly  dew-drop  upon  the  cheek 
of  the  blooming  flowers,  as  though  chaste  Flora  had 
gone  forth  at  early  dawn  to  weep  over  the  wretchedness 
attendant  upon  human  life,  since  the  effect  of  man's  first 
transgression  manifested  itself  in  the  cries  of  righteous 
Abel's  blood  from  the  ground,  for  vengeance  upon  his 
devoted  brother. 

At  the  time  of  the  above  transaction,  the  brig  Mary- 


^4M 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREQON. 


873 


land,  of  Newburyport,  was  lying  at  anchor  near  Pillar 
Rock ;  but  Captain  Couch  had  no  knowledge  of  these 
murders  until  he  was  informed  thereof  by  a  note  from 
us :  upon  which  he  weighed  anchor,  and  dropped  down 
to  Astoria. 

On  the  23d,  which  was  the  sabbath,  I  preached  to 
my  usual  congregation,  with  the  addition  of  Dr.  Tulmie, 
who  had  arrived  with  a  detachment  from  Vancouver, 
and  several  from  on  board  of  the  Maryland:  text, 
Psalm  xvi,  8. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th  a  search  was  commenced 
for  the  murderers  of  M'Kay;  and  for  this  purpose  a 
boat  and  canoe  were  manned  and  despatched  for  the 
vicinity  of  the  fishery,  where  the  murder  had  been  com- 
mitted, taking  with  them  two  squaws,  the  wives  of  two 
of  the  head  men  belonging  to  the  clan  which  resided 
near  Pillar  Rock.  These  women  had  been  taken,  and 
were  kept  as  hostages,  and  were  to  act  as  guides  to  the 
parties ;  it  having  been  already  ascertained  that  a  slave 
belonging  to  the  husband  of  one  of  these  women  was 
one  of  the  murderers.  About  this  time  old  Skumaquea, 
who,  as  has  been  heretofore  stated,  resided  a  few  miles 
above  the  fishery,  came  down ;  and,  as  he  had  pre- 
viously declared  his  innocence,  and  promised  to  use 
his  best  endeavours  to  apprehend  the  guilty,  brought 
with  him  now  a  Quiniutle  Indian,  one  of  a  tribe  whose 
lands  lay  to  the  north  of  the  Columbia ;  which  Indian, 
and  the  slave  above-mentioned,  were  declared  to  be  the 
perpetrators  of  the  crime.  The  Indian  promised  to 
remain  at  Astoria  until  the  subject  could  be  fully  inves- 
tigated, and  Skumaquea  returned  to  his  home. 

Dr.  Tolmie,  who  went  out  with  the  party  before  men- 
tioned, returned  on  the  26th,  having  seen  nothing  of 
those  for  whom  they  sought.  And  the  prisoner  above- 
mentioned,  although  he  had  expressed  such  a  willing 
ness  to  remain  for  further  examination  that  Mr.  Birnie 
was  induced  to  leave  him  unbound,  had  embraced  the 
first  favourable  opportunity,  and  made  his  escape. 

Dr.  Tolmie  left  again  in  the  evening  to  join  Dr. 

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274 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


M'Laughlin,  who  was  on  board  of  the  barge  from  Van- 
couver, which  was  lying  at  Pillar  Rock,  having  just 
come  down. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  a  canoe  arrived  from  the 
party,  bringing  intelligence  that  the  slave  had  been  dis- 
covered by  one  of  the  Iraqua  Indians  in  connection  with 
the  party,  and  shot  through  the  head.  Thua  one  of  the 
murderers  expiated  his  crime  with  his  life.  A  bounty 
was  now  offered  for  the  recapture  of  the  Quiniutle  In- 
dian, the  other  murderer ;  and  Skumaquea  succeeded 
in  apprehending  him  a  second  time,  and  delivered  him 
over  to  Dr.  M'Laughlin,  who  brought  him  down  to 
Astoria  on  the  morning  of  the  29th,  being  accompanied 
by  a  number  of  the  Walamet  settlers. 

An  examination  was  now  instituted ;  and  it  was  de- 
cided by  all  the  whites  present  that  this  Quiniutle  was 
one  of  the  actual  murderers,  and  that  it  was  absolutely 
necessary  for  the  prevention  of  further  murders,  and 
the  commission  of  further  depredations,  that  an  exam- 
ple should  be  made  of  this  criminal.  He  was,  conse- 
quently, at  one  o'clock  in  the  aflernoon,  hung  up  by 
the  neck  until  he  was  dead.  And  the  Indians  present 
were  made  to  understand  that,  while  we  were  their 
friends,  and  desired  to  live  in  uninterrupted  peace  and 
harmony  with  them,  yet  they  might  expect  that  if  any 
of  their  number  were  at  any  time  guilty  of  the  like 
crimes,  they  might  expect  a  like  punishment.  And 
now  we  close  this  distressing  scene. 

Two  of  the  company's  vessels  came  in  this  morning, 
and  are  lying  at  anchor  near  the  Maryland, — quite  a 
fleet  for  this  wild  region. 

Most  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  company,  and  the  Wala- 
met settlers,  left  for  their  respective  homes ;  and  the 
two  Indian  women  who  had  been  retained  as  hostages 
were  permitted  to  go  in  search  of  their  wandering  hus- 
bands, being  directed  to  say  to  them  when  found,  that 
if  they  would  come  and  make  it  appear  that  they  were 
innocent  with  reference  to  the  crime  of  which  their 
slave  had  been  guilty,  they  would  be  permitted  to  re- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


275 


turn  to  their  home  in  peace.  Mrs.  Frost  and  our  little 
boy  have  been  afflicted  with  the  ague  and  fever  for  some 
dajrs,  the  result  of  living  a  short  time  at  Vancouver, 
which  is  in  the  region  where  this  epidemic  prevails. 

The  30th  being  the  sabbath,  I  preached  to  our  fami- 
lies and  some  of  the  officers  and  men  from  the  vessels, 
from  Psalm  xcvii,  1.  I  would  here  transcribe  some 
reflections  recorded  in  my  journal  at  that  time  only  for 
fear  of  making  this  work  too  voluminous. 

On  the  1st  of  September  I  left  Astoria  in  company 
with  Dr.  Tolmie  and  Mr.  Calvin  Tibits,  an  American 
settler  from  the  Walamet,  to  visit  Mr.  Smith,  on  the 
Clatsop  Plains.  We  had  not  seen  i.  Smith  but  once 
since  he  left  Astoria,  so  that  we  felt  anxious  to  know 
how  he  was  getting  along  among  his  new  neighbours. 
We  crossed  Young's  Bay  in  a  canoe,  and  went  up  a 
small  river  called  the  Skapanowin,  which  came  into  the 
bay  from  the  south,  and  was  navigable  to  within  about 
a  mile  of  the  plain,  at  high  tide.  Here  we  hauled  up 
our  canoe,  crossed  the  marsh,  which  was  now  nearly 
dry,  and  passed  through  a  grove  of  timber  to  the  plain  ; 
crossed  the  plain  to  the  ocean,  and  proceeded  along 
the  beach  until  we  arrived  at  the  river  that  empties 
into  the  ocean  near  Cape  Lookout.  This  stream  is 
called  by  the  natives  Neacoxy,  the  water  in  which  they 
take  the  fall  salmon.  Here  we  found  the  Clatsop  In- 
dians waiting  for  the  commencement  of  their  second 
salmon  season,  the  season  on  the  Columbia  having 
closed  in  August.  And  here  we  found  Mr.  Smith,  who 
had  laid  up  the  body  of  a  log-cabin,  about  fifteen  feet 
square,  and  was  living  in  it  without  floor  or  roof. 

We  were  now  weary,  having  travelled  about  ten 
miles  since  we  left  our  canoe  :  so,  after  having  supped 
upon  some  very  good  elk  meat,  and  talked  over  the 
news  of  the  day,  we  laid  ourselves  down  to  sleep,  and 
should  have  had  a  very  good  night's  rest,  but  we  were 
soon  beset  with  an  innumerable  host  of  fleas,  so  that, 
instead  of  sleeping,  we  were  obliged  to  fight  all  night. 
In  the  morning  we  took  breakfast,  and  returned  to  the 


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276 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


place  on  the  plain  where  we  had  left  our  crew,  and 
found  that  they  had  shot  a  deer,  upon  which  we  made 
a  fine  dinner,  and  then  returned  to  Astoria. 

Mr.  Tibits  had  by  this  time  about  made  up  his  mind 
to  remove  to  this  region;  so  we  had  a  prospect  of 
another  white  neighbour. 

Sept.  6th.  Preached  from  Isa.  liii,  1.  As  Dr.  T. 
and  Mr.  T.  had  left,  my  congregation  was  now  reduced 
to  but  one  man  besides  Mr.  Birnie's  family  and  my 
own.  Nothing  of  moment  transpired  during  the  fol- 
lowing week,  and  the  next  sabbath  attended  divine 
service  as  usual. 

On  the  14th,  the  owner  of  the  slave,  one  of  the 
murderers  above  mentioned,  and  his  brother,  came  to 
Astoria,  and  gave  assurances  that  they  had  had  no 
knowledge  of  the  designs  of  the  murderer,  and  were 
entirely  innocent  with  reference  to  that  transaction. 
They  then  proceeded  to  Vancouver,  continued  there  for 
some  time,  and  then  returned  to  their  former  abode. 

Soon  after  this  Mr.  Smith  left  his  family  at  Neacoxy, 
and  called  upon  us  on  his  way  to  Walamet  in  a  canoe, 
for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  a  supply  of  bread-stuff, 
and  other  necessary  winter  supplies  for  his  family. 

On  the  18th,  we  received  letters  from  Walamet,  by 
which  we  learned  that  several  belonging  to  the  mission 
were  suffering  with  the  intermittent  fever. 

For  several  days  past,  says  my  journal,  there  has 
been  an  Indian  woman  near  this,  on  the  beach,  with  a 
sick  child.  Last  night  the  child  died,  and  to-day  it  was 
taken  to  the  place  of  interment ;  and  in  order  that  the 
Christian  mother  in  the  civilized  world  may  be  ena- 
bled to  obtain  a  faint  idea  of  the  wretchedness  of  these 
wretched  beings,  let  her  imagine  herself  in  the  condi- 
tion of  this  poor  Indian  woman :  without  house  or 
home,  for  she  was  on  a  journey ;  her  only  child  sick 
and  at  the  point  of  death  ;  but  she  has  no  food  to  ad- 
minister to  it,  save  a  few  crude  roots  and  a  little  dried 
fish ;  she  has  no  medicine  to  administer  which  might 
mitigate  its  sufferings ;  no  bed  on  which  to  lay  its 


# 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


277 


emaciated  body,  and  nothing  but  a  miserable  old  rush 
mat  with  which  to  sheher  it  from  the  rays  of  the  sun 
by  day  and  the  chilHng  damps  by  night ;  she  sits  by  it 
on  the  ffround,  and  watches  it  day  and  night,  and  wets 
its  parched  Hps  with  water  from  an  adjoining  rill ;  and 
when  it  mourns,  she  weeps  over  it,  and  speaks  to  it  in 
the  most  soothing  manner.  She  does  all  she  can  for 
its  recovery,  but  all  in  vain.  Death  is  making  his  ad- 
vances ;  he  pursues  his  object  with  steady  purpose, 
until  he  strikes  the  final  blow.  Is  the  Indian  mother 
unfeeling  at  this  crisis?  Let  her  plaintive  wailings 
testify.  But  this  is  not  all.  There  is  none  to  assist 
her  in  arranging  the  corpse  for  interment.  She  must 
roll  it  up  in  the  piece  of  a  blanket  that  covered  its  oth- 
erwise naked  body  while  living.  Over  this  she  wraps 
the  mat  which  constituted  the  house  under  which  it  ex- 
pired ;  and,  as  it  is  their  custom  for  the  nearest  relative 
to  carry  the  dead,  she  slings  it  upon  her  own  back,  with 
a  strap  across  her  forehead ;  and  thus  she  bears  it  away 
to  some  precipice  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  to  be  de- 
voured by  some  beast  of  prey,  or  to  remain  until  Ga- 
briel's trump  shall  awake  its  dust.  .it 
She  now  returns  as  she  went,  giving  vent  to  her 
feelings  in  the  customary  notes  of  the  loud,  wild  death- 
wail  ;  shoves  her  small  canoe  from  the  shore,  enters  it 
alone,  and,  timing  the  strokes  of  her  paddle  with  her 
notes  of  wo,  she  thus  disappears. 
i  Come,  reader,  let  us  now  take  a  brief,  review  of  this 
Here  is  the  mother  who  fills  the  offices  of  the 


scene. 


physician,  the  nurse,  the  night-watch,  the  hearse,  the 
chief  mourner,  the  funeral  concourse,  and  the  under- 
taker ! 

This  is  no  fancy  sketch  on  the  part  of  the  writer;  it  is 
a  simple,  matter-of-fact  history  of  the  condition  of  a  por- 
tion of  the  human  fan: 'ly.  And  who  can  reflect  upon 
such  scenes,  while  they  enjoy  the  blessings  of  civiliza- 
tion and  Christianity,  and  not  find  their  hearts  to  over- 
flow with  gratitude  to  their  heavenly  Father,  by  whom 
they  have  been  so  highly  distinguished?    And  who 


r  i 


:■{'■:• 


378 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


can  meditate  upon  the  exhibition  of  such  wretchedness, 
and  not  feel  their  deepest  sympathies  aroused,  and  their 
bowels  to  yearn  over  the  inhabitants  of  the  dark  por- 
tions of  our  earth  ?  Many  similar  scenes  of  sorrow 
fell  under  our  observation  while  in  that  region,  but  to 
relate  them  would  take  up  too  much  of  our  room,  and 
prove  too  painful  to  our  feelings. 

I  wrote  to  the  superintendent  of  the  mission  by  Mr. 
Smith,  requesting  help  to  put  up  a  covering  for  my 
family  before  the  rainy  season  commenced ;  but  as  I 
received  no  answer,  and  as  Mr.  Smith  did  not  return, 
I  left  my  family  at  Astoria,  and  set  out  for  Walamet 
via  Vancouver,  on  the  28th,  in  company  with  a  young 
gentleman  from  the  ship  Forager,  which  had  just  ar- 
rived from  England,  who  was  going  to  Vancouver  in  a 
boat. 

We  ascended  the  river  as  far  as  Cathlamet,  where 
we  met  Mr.  Smith,  by  whom  I  received  a  letter  from 
the  superintendent,  stating  that  most  of  the  mechanics 
were  sick.  Consequently,  he  knew  not  when  help 
could  be  furnished  me  from  that  quarter,  but  that  I  had 
the  privilege  of  employing  Mr.  Smith ;  but  as  the  lat- 
ter would  be  obliged  to  provide  for  his  own  family,  it 
was  evident  that  with  what  help  he  could  afford,  I 
should  not  be  able  to  accomplish  the  labour  of  putting 
up  a  house  that  would  screen  my  family  from  the  ap- 
proaching storms.  So  it  was  determined  that  I  should 
hasten  to  Wadamet  in  pursuit  of  further  aid,  while 
Smith  should  go  down  to  his  family,  cover  his  cabin, 
and,  if  he  had  any  spare  time,  commence  cutting  logs 
near  the  place  where  I  had  determined  to  build,  which 
was  about  five  miles  from  Point  Adams,  upon  the  Clat- 
sop Plain.  We  supped  together  upon  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  then  pursued  our  voyages,  Mr.  Smith  toward 
Clatsop,  and  we  toward  Vancouver,  where  we  arrived 
on  the  second  day  after. 

The  next  morning  I  engaged  two  Indians  to  take  me 
in  a  small  canoe  to  Champoeg,  which  was  within  fif- 
teen miles  of  the  Walamet  Mission.    In  the  evening 


m... 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


279 


we  arrived  at  the  Walamet  Falls,  where  Mr.  Waller 
was  building  a  house  for  the  accommodation  of  his 
family,  as  this  was  the  place  where  he  was  to  labour 
among  the  Indians.  Spent  the  night  with  Mr.  W.,  and 
prepared  to  resume  my  journey  up  the  river ;  but  my 
Indians  had  made  up  their  minds  during  the  night  to  go 
no  further  unless  I  would  give  them  more  than  twice 
as  much  as  they  had  agreed  to  perform  the  trip  for 
when  we  left  Vancouver :  so  here  was  a  full  stop,  and 
as  there  were  no  Indians  at  this  place  that  could  be  pre- 
vailed upon  to  take  their  place,  it  was  doubtful  whether 
I  would  get  on  unless  their  extortionate  demands  were 
met;  and,  seeing  the  strait  in  which  I  was  placed,  they 
held  me  to  the  point,  and  when  they  found  that  their 
avarice  was  not  to  be  gratified,  they  set  off  for  Vancou- 
ver, and  left  me  to  shift  for  myself  as  well  as  I  could. 

Mr.  Waller  now  consented  to  let  me  have  his  man, 
a  German,  who  was  labouring  with  him  in  building  his 
house,  and  we  succeeded,  after  some  time,  in  procuring 
an  Indian,  who  had  lost  the  use  of  his  legs,  to  make 
the  second  man ;  and  now,  putting  Jacob  in  the  stem 
and  the  cripple  in  the  bow,  we  proceeded  up  the  river, 
and  reached  the  Bute  about  sunset.  Here  we  lodged 
in  the  cabin  belonging  to  a  Caradian,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing I  walked  about  two  miles  to  Mr.  Tibits.  Here  I 
took  breakfast,  and  obtained  a  horse,  and  found  my 
way  to  the  mission  by  noon. 

Found  many  of  the  members  of  the  mission  sick 
with  the  fever  and  ague,  and  the  mechanics  that  were 
able  to  work  employed  on  the  saw-mill.  Made  known 
the  object  of  my  visit  to  the  superintendent ;  and,  after 
consultation,  it  was  determined  that  the  Rev.  W.  W. 
Kone  should  accompany  me  to  Clatsop  as  my  future 
colleague.  And  now  we  set  about  making  preparations 
for  the  removal  of  Mr.  Kone's  family  and  gooas,  which 
was  not  an  undertaking  of  small  moment,  as  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miles  intervened  between  us  and  the 
place  where  we  were  to  build  our  future  dwelling.  But 
no  time  could  be  lost;  my  family  would  be  anxiously 


^    "'; 


,s       'D 


i  I  Ml 


i  I 


A 


H 


ii^lAi 


S80 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


waiting  my  return ;  and  in  order  to  be  shielded  from 
the  approaching  rains,  the  trip  must  be  made,  and  a 
house  must  be  built  from  the  stump  in  a  few  weeks. 
So,  after  enjoying  the  privileges  of  one  more  Christian 
sabbath  with  the  brethren,  we  packed  up  Mr.  Kone's 
goods  on  Monday,  and  on  Tuesday  morning  obtained 
two  Indian  canoes,  and  one  white  man,  three  Indians, 
and  a  Hawaian  to  navigate  them ;  and  on  Thursday 
morning,  having  stowed  in  all  the  goods  the  canoes 
would  contain,  leaving  small  spaces  wherein  we  were 
to  sit,  very  much  like  men  in  the  stocks,  we  placed 
two  Indians  and  the  Hawaian  in  the  largest  canoe,  which 
contained  the  most  of  the  goods ;  and  our  white  man, 
Paddy,  we  took  in  the  canoe  with  ourselves,  making 
him  helmsman,  and  one  of  the  Indians  we  put  in  the 
bow  to  assist  in  paddling.  We  now  commenced  our 
downward  voyage  with  a  fair  prospect  of  reaching 
Vancouver  by  the  close  of  the  following  day ;  but,  after 
running  down  several  rapids  in  safety,  we  came  to  one 
which  entirely  knocked  all  our  fond  expectations  in  the 
head  :  for  no  sooner  had  the  large  canoe  entered  the 
swift  water,  than,  through  the  bad  management  of  the 
crew,  it  was  borne  down  with  rapidity  against  some 
snags,  and,  with  a  tremendous  crash,  went  to  pieces. 
As  we  were  in  the  rear,  we  darted  by  them  in  a  mo- 
ment, and  as  we  passed  the  fatal  spot,  there  were 
trunks,  barrels,  pails,  and  bundles,  a^d  Indians  and 
Hawaian,  all  jumbled  together  in  strange  confusion, 
every  one  apparently  labouring  to  be  uppermost.  We 
ran  our  canoe  upon  a  small  island,  leaped  on  shore,  un- 
loaded the  cargo  as  soon  as  possible,  and  leaving  Mrs. 
Kone  in  my  charge,  the  canoe  was  immediately  shoved 
off  in  pursuit  of  the  floating  cargo  from  the  wreck.  By 
this  time  the  Indians  and  Hawaian  had  succeeded  in 
towing  several  of  the  articles  on  shore,  and  were  swim- 
ming after  some  of  those  which  had  not  sunk,  but  were 
hastening  down  the  stream. 

It  was  near  night  when  this  unlooked-for  disaster 
occurred ;  so  that,  when  it  became  dark,  many  things 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


281 


By 


were  still  missing,  among  which  was  Mrs.  Kone^s 
travelling  trunk,  containing  a  gold  watch,  and  her  most 
valuable  clothing.  I  had  lighted  a  fire,  and  as  we  could 
do  no  better,  we  set  to  work  to  get  supper,  and  prepare 
for  a  night's  lodging  without  a  tent,  as  this  very  import- 
ant article  was  also  among  the  missing.  We  passed 
the  night  in  safety,  and  sending  Paddy  and  an  Indian 
to  the  nearest  white  man's  house  on  the  river,  which 
was  eight  or  ten  miles  distant,  for  a  canoe,  the  remain- 
der of  us  went  in  search  of  the  lost  goods.  We  suc- 
ceeded in  finding  the  tent  and  a  few  other  articles ;  but 
Mrs.  K.'s  trunk,  pots,  kettles,  etc.,  etc.,  and  our  tool 
box,  were  irrecoverably  lost.  The  remainder  of  the 
day  was  spent  in  drying  the  recovered  goods,  and  when 
night  returned  we  had  a  tent  to  lodge  in. 

On  the  following  morning  we  loaded  our  canoe,  and 
leaving  Mr.  Kone  to  take  charge  of  the  remaining 

foods,  Mr.  Hines,  Mrs.  Kone,  and  myself  set  out  for 
)hampoeg,  and  as  the  canoe  for  which  we  had  sent 
arrived  soon  after  our  departure,  we  all  met  before  night 
at  the  above-named  place. 

This  being  Saturday,  we  remained  here  until  Mon- 
day morning,  when,  instead  of  being  at  Vancouver,  as 
we  had  anticipated,  we  had  the  most  part  of  our  voyage 
still  to  make.  We  reached  that  place,  however,  on 
Wednesday  at  about  ten  o'clock,  where  we  were  enter- 
tained, as  usual,  with  much  kindness.  Dr.  M'Laugh- 
lin  now  furnished  us  with  a  boat,  and  we  descended 
the  Columbia,  experiencing  some  rain  and  contrary 
winds,  and  arrived  at  Astoria  on  the  following  Monday 
morning,  and  were  happy  to  find  my  family  in  comfort- 
able health.  Mrs.  Frost  was  very  happy  to  be  put  in 
possession  of  Mrs.  Konc's  society ;  and,  notwithstand- 
mg  all  our  former  mishaps,  we  felt  encouraged  to  go 
forward  in  our  work  with  renewed  energy. 

But  now  the  rainy  season  was  soon  to  set  in ;  there- 
fore it  was  necessary  that  we  should  hasten  to  build  a 
cabin  to  cover  our  heads.  And  as  Mr.  Smith  had  gone 
to  his  family  to  the  southern  end  of  Clatsop  Plain,  about 


>.  "::, 


ill 


'"i;     f  ^! 


282 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


eight  miles  by  water  and  ten  by  land,  immediately  upon 
our  separation  at  Cathlamet,  as  mentioned  above,  and 
having  not  been  heard  of  since,  we  found  it  difficult  to 
determine  what  course  to  pursue.  But  in  the  afternoon 
of  the  same  day,  as  the  Lord  would  have  it,  he  came 
to  Astoria  with  his  canoe,  having  left  his  family  in  good 
health,  and  reported  himself  ready  to  assist  us  in  mak- 
ing a  house.  '■■■■■-■'■ 

We  now  consulted  upon  the  best  mode  of  opera- 
tion, and  determined  that  we  would  leave  our  families 
in  the  care  of  Mr.  Birnie,  while  we  would  proceed  im- 
mediately to  the  Clatsop  Plain  and  put  up  a  cabin. 
So  after  arranging  matters  as  well  as  we  could,  and 
packing  up  our  tools,  and  provisions,  and  tent,  which 
occupied  our  time  until  the  next  day,  we  bid  our 
families  farewell,  launched  our  canoe,  and  steered  our 
course  across  Young's  Bay,  entered  the  Skapanowin 
River,  paddled  up  to  the  head  of  canoe  navigation, 
and  hauled  our  crazy  bark  on  shore.  We  now  made 
up  our  cargo  into  packs,  loaded  ourselves,  as  we  had 
no  beast  of  burden,  and  by  a  circuitous  route,  through 
the  marsh  and  across  the  plain,  upon  which  we 
forded  two  creeks,  reached  the  place  selected  for  our 
dwelling  about  sunset.  Just  before  we  reached  the 
place  we  discovered  a  large  bear  near  the  spot  where 
we  desired  to  pitch  our  tent ;  this  caused  us,  strangers  to 
this  description  of  inhabitants,  to  hesitate ;  but  as  Mr. 
Smith  said,  "  I  am  not  afraid  of  bears,"  and  marched 
on,  not  even  deigning  to  notice  our  new  neighbour,  we 
took  courage,  and  as  we  approached,  the  bear  with- 
drew, and  retired  into  the  thicket,  so  that  we  took 
possession  of  the  place  in  peace,  struck  a  fire,  pitched 
our  tent,  and  soon  sat  down  to  a  hearty  supper,  which 
consisted  of  brown  biscuit,  pork  roasted  on  a  stick,  and 
a  cup  of  tea.  We  now  united  in  prayer  to  Almighty 
God,  imploring  his  direction  and  aid,  that  we  might 
become  instrumental  in  rearing  the  gospel  standard  in 
that  wild  place,  where'  the  enemy  of  all  righteousness 
had  from  the  beginning  held  unrivalled  dommion.    We 


'♦•' 


'■'itr 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


283 


now  laid  ourselves  down  and  slept  in  peace  and  quiet- 
ness until  morning. 

Mr.  Smith  thought  it  necessary  to  return  to  his 
family,  to  acquaint  them  with  our  arrival,  and  to  make 
some  arrangements  to  get  Indians  to  assist  us  in  car- 
rying logs  for  our  cabin  :  so  after  breakfast  he  left,  and 
agreed  to  return  on  the  following  day,  and  we  were, 
during  that  time,  to  iix  on  the  spot  where  to  set  our 
building  and  commence  operations. 

Strange  feelings  were  experienced  by  us  that  day :  we 
were  entirely  alone,  in  a  wild  region,  and  upon  a  soil 
which  had  been  seldom  pressed  by  ihe  white  man's  foot; 
surrounded  by  Indians  who  were  ignorant,  supersti- 
tious, and  barbarous.  And  perhaps  the  reader  will  not 
think  it  amiss  for  me  to  turn  aside  from  the  main  drift 
of  the  narrative,  for  the  purpose  of  relating  one  of 
their  barbarous  acts,  which  was  performed  by  them  at 
Neacoxy,  during  Mr.  Smith's  absence  to  the  Walamet, 
and  which  was  made  known  to  him  by  his  wife,  who 
was  an  eye-witness  of  ihe  same,  on  his  return. 

The  fall  salmon  season  had  not  commenced,  and  as 
they  are  a  most  improvident  people,  never  laying  up 
enough  during  one  season  of  plenty  to  last  them  until 
another,  they  were  now  entirely  dependant  upon  roots, 
and  came  from  the  mountains  for  daily  food ;  and  as 
there  were  but  two  men  in  the  whole  clan  that  had  the 
Elk  "  tamanawas,"  that  is,  the  spirit  of  the  elk  hunter, 
of  course,  seeing  that  these  two  loved  ease  as  well  as 
any  of  them,  their  supply  from  the  mountains  was  not 
very  abundant.  About  this  time  one  of  the  hunters  went 
out  and  succeeded  in  bringing  an  elk  into  the  camp ; 
and,  according  to  custom,  the  most  of  it  was  taken  to 
the  lodge  of  the  chief.  Here  a  feast  was  prepared  and 
the  whole  clan  invited  to  partake,  and  among  the  assem- 
bled guests  there  was  an  Indian  who  had  been  for 
some  time  in  a  declining  state,  who,  after  filling  him- 
self to  his  entire  satisfaction,  retired,  previously  to  the 
breaking  up  of  ihe  party.  The  rest  continued  to  feast 
and  chat  until  a  late  hour.    After  the  sick  Indian  re- 


m 


■nV' 


V-i 


^ 


284 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


turned  to  the  lodge  where  he  belonged,  he  stuck  some 
pieces  of  meat  upon  a  stick  and  set  them  up  before  the 
fire  to  roast ;  he  then  stretched  himself  out  upon  his  mat 
for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  strength  sufficient  to  finish 
his  share  of  the  elk,  when  it  should  be  sufficiently 
cooked ;  but  contrary  to  his  expectations,  as  it  appearedf, 
he  fell  into  a  sound  sleep,  so  tnat  when  his  sister,  with 
whom  he  lived,  and  the  other  inmates  of  the  lodge,  re- 
turned, and  found  him  in  this  posture,  breathing  hard, 
and  sometimes  groaning,  caused,  no  doubt  by  having 
crammed  his  empty  stomach  with  such  a  quantity  of 
heavy  food,  and  as  they  found  that  he  could  not  be 
readily  aroused  from  this  torpid  state,  they  all  as  one 
struck  up  the  death-wail,  and  one  ran  to  Mrs.  Smith  to 
borrow  tneir  shovel  for  the  purpose  of  digging  a  grave 
for  the  man,  whom  they  now  pronounced  to  be  dead. 
Mrs.  Smith  followed  this  messenger  to  the  lodge, 
where  she  found  the  customaiy  preparations  for  uie 
interment  of  the  dead  going  forward  with  haste ;  but  as 
she  found  the  man,  to  all  appearance,  not  very  near  his 
natural  end,  she  proposed  to  put  off  the  funeral  until  the 
following  morning,  when,  if  the  man  was  actually  dead, 
they  would  bury  him  decently.  This  counsel  was 
rejected  with  much  spirit,  they  declaring  that  he  was 
"  nowiika  mamalust€f"  that  is,  certainly  dead,  and  with- 
out further  ado  he  was  rolled  up  in  his  blanket  and 
mat,  tied  with  a  rope,  and  sluns  upon  the  back  of  a 
relative,  and  away  they  marched  toward  the  place  of 
burial,  rending  the  air  with  their  wailings.  They  arrive 
at  the  spot,  lay  down  the  living  corpse,  which  uttered 
a  pitiful  groan ;  this  was  to  them  another  conclusive 
evidence  that  it  was  high  time  he  should  be  buried. 
Mrs.  Smith  expostulated.  But  they  upbraided  her 
with  being  regardless  of  their  welfare  ;  seeing  that  the 
salmon,  which  had  just  made  their  appearance,  would 
all  leave  the  river  at  once,  if  a  dead  body  should  be 
found  above  sround  !  The  hole  was  hastily  dug,  and 
finding  that  she  could  not  prevail,  Mrs.  S.  returned  to 
her  house ;  but  was  told,  by  one  that  did  remain,  that 


m 


^'^ 


TSN  TEARS  IN  OKEQOV. 


285 


after  the  body  was  put  therein  and  some  dirt  thrown 
upon  it,  one  of  the  men  descended  to  tramp  it  down, 
which  caused  the  poor  half-buried  man  to  groan  aloud ; 
but  they  persevered  until  his  groaning  ceased,  and  the 
"  last  sad  offices"  were  completed.  They  now  returned 
to  the  lodge,  distributed  the  knife  and  such  other  arti- 
cles left  by  the  departed,  among  the  present  bereaved 
relations ;  and  committed  his  elk  meat,  which  was 
scarcely  cooked  before  his  burial  and  consequent  death, 
to  the  names,  as  it  was  against  their  conscience  to  eat 
anything  which  had  been  prepared  by  the  dead.  And 
as  they  had  a  great  abundance  of  salmon  that  season, 
they  were  no  doubt  satisfied  that  they  had  performed 
a  good  work. 

With  this  description  of  the  character  of  those  who 
were  to  be  our  future  neighbours,  in  connection  with 
the  wildness  of  the  face  of  nature  around  us,  the  reader 
will  not  wonder  that  we  had  strange  feelings  that  day. 
But  we  were  far  from  being  discouraged,  neither  did 
we  stop  to  look  back.  We  selected  the  spot  for  our 
house,  moved  camp,  dug  a  hole  to  obtain  water,  cleared 
a  road  from  the  plain  to  the  timber,  and  returned  a 
little  before  sunset  to  the  tent.  We  now  prepared  our 
supper,  and  while  we  were  eating,  being  seated  in  the 
door  of  the  tent,  our  neighbour  the  bear  made  his  ap- 
pearance within  a  few  rods  of  us :  we  immediately 
seized  our  guns  and  gave  chase  ;  but  Bruin  soon  disap- 
peared in  the  thicket,  and  we  returned  to  complete  our 
meal. 

After  washing  our  dishes,  and  arranging  matters  in 
the  tent,  we  committed  our  families  and  selves  to  the 
care  of  our  Father  in  heaven,  and,  being  weary,  soon 
fell  asleep. 

I  should  have  mentioned,  however,  that  before  we 
retired  for  the  night  Mr.  Smith  returned,  having  obtained 
a  promise  from  the  Indians  that  they  would  come  the 
next  morning  to  assist  in  carrying  logs. 
i  We  arose  early  in  the  morning.  Mr.  S.  and  myself 
entered  the  woods  with  our  axes  to  cut  logs,  while  Mr. 


I  !*' 


■♦* 


% 


S86 


TEN  TEAB8  IN  OREGON. 


Kone  remained  to  take  care  of  the  tent,  and  cook  our 
breakfast. 

The  breakfast  call  was  heard  in  due  season ;  and  our 
Rev.  cook  had  done  honour  to  his  new  and  important 
office  in  preparing  an  excellent  breakfast,  which  was 
served  up  in  due  form,  consisting  of  cakes  made  of 
unbolted  flour  mixed  with  cold  water,  and  baked  upon 
a  plank,  which  had  been  nicely  hewn  out  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  placed  upon  the  clean  embers  before  the  nre ; 
and  fried  pork,  which,  having  been  nicely  browned,  pro- 
duced plenty  of  gravy  in  which  to  sop  our  bread ;  and 
an  excellent  cup  of  hyson,  which  our  neighbour  Smith 
declared  to  be  a  very  pleasant  and  exhilarating  beverage, 
desiring  neither  milk  nor  sugar  to  improve  its  flavour. 

Kotata,  the  head  man  of  the  Clatsop  clan,  now  made 
his  appearance,  in  company  with  a  number  of  his  men. 
After  we  explained  to  him  the  object  of  our  coming  to 
settle  among  them,  and  the  course  we  designed  to  pur- 
sue in  all  our  transactions  with  them,  he  promised  to 
use  his  influence  with  his  people  to  prevent  the  com- 
mission of  crime  among  theni  for  the  future,  and  ex- 
pressed a  desire  to  be  instructed  with  reference  to  those 
things  which  pertained  to  their  peace;  and  decided  that 
it  was  good  tor  us  to  build  a  house,  and  live  among 
them.  Six  or  eight  of  the  men  now  went  with  us  to 
the  woods,  and  commenced  carrying  logs,  while  we 
continued  to  cut  down  the  trees  from  six  to  ten  inches 
in  diameter,  cutting  them  off  at  proper  lengths;  and 
before  sunset  we  had  all  the  logs  cut  for  the  body  of 
the  cabin,  which  we  designed  to  be  twenty  feet  long  by 
eighteen  wide.  Being  now  fatigued,  we  returned  to 
the  tent,  where  we  found  a  very  inviting  supper  in 
readiness,  consisting  of  brant,  a  species  of  the  wild 
goose,  and  wild  ducks,  the  roasting  and  broiling  of 
which  presented  another  evidence  of  the  consummate 
skill  of  our  excellent  cook.  The  wild  fowls  were  pur- 
chased from  the  Indians,  who  were  exceedingly  pleased 
at  having  a  market  so  near  at  hand.  After  replenishing 
our  stomachs  with  this  welcome  supply  of  fresh  pro- 


m 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


887 


visions,  we  attended  family  devotions  outside  of  the 
tent,  Mr.  Smith  praying  in  Indian,  and  interpreting  a 
word  of  exliortation  from  us  to  our  neighbours,  to  which 
they  grunted  assent;  and  then  all  hands  lay  down  to 
rest, — we  in  our  tent,  and  the  Indians  around  the  fire 
before  the  door. 

The  next  day  being  Saturday  we  renewed  our  labour, 
and  succeeded  in  getting  all  the  logs  upon  the  building 
spot.  During  the  day  a  little  circumstance  occurred 
which  led  us  to  suspect  that  our  new  neighbours  needed 
a  little  watching,  notwithstanding  their  fair  promises 
to  deal  honestly  with  us  in  all  things ;  and  by  this  trans- 
action we  also  learned  that  these  "  untutored  Indians  " 
understood  the  ''secrets  of  trade"  quite  as  well  as  those 
of  our  own  highly-cultivated  nation.  An  Indian  came 
into  camp  with  a  load  of  wild  fowl,  and,  taking  his 
word  as  to  the  number,  I  paid  him  down  the  estabhshed 
number  of  charges  of  ammunition  for  every  one ;  but 
it  was  not  long  after  this,  when  the  cook  came  to  over- 
haul the  new  stock  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  the 
finest  for  our  next  repast,  that  in  so  doing  he  found  one 
fowl  which  presented  a  very  unsavoury  appearance. 
Upon  this  he  called  out  to  me,  in  a  tone  expressive  of 
disgust,  demanding  to  know  whether  it  became  his  duty 
to  cook  crows  ?  Being  somewhat  startled,  and  a  little 
chagrined,  I  hastily  inquired  of  the  fowler  why  he  had 
thus  imposed  upon  me  ?  To  this  the  Indian  replied, 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  show  that  he  understood  his 
business,  by  asking  whether  he  did  not  say  that  he  had 
brouglit  so  many  fowls  ?  Being  answered  in  the  affir- 
mative, he  then  asked.  Is  not  a  C7'oto  a  fowl  ?  Of  course 
this  reply  settled  the  business ;  and  the  laugh  of  all 
hands  turned  upon  me,  for  having  been  so  completely 
outdone  by  an  Indian;  and  my  highly-pleased  associates 
decided  that  I  deserved  nothing  but  the  crow  for  my 
supper. 

The  sabbath  returned,  and  although  we  were  far  re- 
moved from  the  Christian  congregation,  we  realized  the 
fulfilment  of  the  promise  of  that  Being  who  dwelleth 


■^i| 


^^^! 


"m- 


288 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


not  in  temples  made  with  hands,  in  the  refreshing  and 
comforting  influences  of  the  Holy  Spirit  upon  our  hearts 
while  we  engaged  in  prayer  and  praise. 

On  the  following  morning  we  commenced  laying  up 
the  square  of  our  house  ;  and  in  the  afternoon  we  had 
a  very  unexpected  visit  from  Mrs.  Kone,  Frost,  and 
Birnie.  A.nd  as  they  had  come  the  distance  of  about 
fourteen  miles,  part  of  the  way  with  canoe,  and  the  re- 
mainder on  foot,  crossing  the  woods  and  plain,  and 
wading  two  creeks,  they  wefe  very  much  exhausted 
when  they  reached  the  tent ;  but  they  were  soon  re- 
freshed with  some  wild  fowl  cooked  precisely  to  their 
liking,  and  a  cup  of  tea ;  in  addition  to  which  we  had 
some  light  biscuit,  of  which  they  had  brought  a  basket 
full  from  Astoria,  having  prepared  it  expressly  for  us, 
""  not  thinking  we  had  been  faring  so  sumptuously.  The 
ladies  were  quite  well  pleased  with  our  location ;  but 
not  more  so  than  our  little  boy,  who  came  with  them, 
who  thought  the  smooth  prairie  would  be  such  a  fine 
play-ground. 

The  next  morring  Mr.  Smith  and  myself  accom- 
panied the  ladies  back  to  Astoria ;  and  the  next  day 
Drought  over  my  cooking  stove,  and  a  number  of  other 
articles ;  carried  the  most  of  our  cargo  to  the  plain  from 
the  head  of  navigation,  which  was  nearly  a  mile ;  and 
then,  with  a  load,  reached  our  tent  about  sunset,  by  a 
new  route  across  the  plain,  which  crossed  no  creek,  and 
was  one-half  shorter.  .-^     ^  ^^t     •■  •«   ^^^^^^ ,.  i- 

Our  worthy  colleague  was  very  happy  on  our  return, 
having  spent  a  very  lonely  night,  as  he  had  none  but 
Indians  for  companions,  with  whom  he  could  converse 
but  httle. 

We  were  glad  to  get  our  suppers,  and  lie  down  to 
rest,  as  we  were  more  than  usnally  fatigued  with  the 
labours  of  the  day.  Our  loads  had  been  very  heavy, 
but  were  in  such  a  form  that  we  could  not  divide  them, 
such  as  the  bottom  plate  of  Frazier's  patent  cooking 
stove.  No.  4,  a  keg  of  nails  weighing  one  hundred 
pounds,  and  several  bags  of  flour  of  the  same  weight. 


•"^^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


289 


These  we  were  obliged  lo  carry  one  mile,  and  had  then 
taken  a  full  load  through  to  the  building  place,  which 
was  at  least  two  miles  further. 

Our  Indians  had  succeeded  in  capturing  our  old 
neighbour  the  bear,  which  made  them  a  splendid  feast ; 
and  it  was  very  amusing  to  witness  the  operation  of 
cooking  and  eating.  The  bear  was  completely  dis- 
sected, and  the  fire  was  surrounded  with  different  por- 
tions of  the  body ;  and  there  the  Indians  were  squatting 
around  this  circle  of  hissing  and  smoking  flesh,  devour- 
ing it  as  soon  as  it  was  cooked.  A  good  night's  rest 
succeeded  a  day  of  toil ;  and  we  arose  next  morning 
in  health,  and  proceeded  with  our  work  ;  and  were  so 
successful  as  to  finish  laying  up  the  cabin,  and  covering 
it  with  shingles,  split  out  of  a  large  fir  tree  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  at  the  end  of  two  weeks. 
Put  up  our  cooking  stove,  and  felt  that  we  were  com- 
pletely under  cover. 

We  now  determined  to  go  for  the  ladies,  while  Mr. 
Kone  would  remain  for  the  purpose  of  putting  in  a  door 
and  a  window.  Mr.  Smith  and  myself  set  out  in  the 
morning,  and  arrived  at  Astoria  by  noon.  Finding  the 
ladies  ready,  and  anxious  to  remove  to  our  new  home, 
we  packed  up  our  beds  and  bedding,  and  clothes  for 
present  use,  leaving  the  remainder  of  our  goods  in 
charge  with  Mr.  Birnie,  loaded  our  canoe,  and  set  off 
for  the  plain.  We  proceeded  across  Young's  Bay,  and 
up  the  Skapanowin  to  the  head  of  navigation.  Having 
been  retarded  in  our  progress  in  consequence  of  low 
water,  we  found  the  night  closing  in  upon  us,  and  con- 
cluded that  it  was  not  best  to  attempt  to  cross  the  marsh 
and  forest  in  the  night,  but  that  we  must  make  our- 
selves as  comfortable  as  circumstances  would  allow 
until  morning.  Our  arrangements  for  the  night  were  as 
follows  :  we  landed  our  cargo,  and  placed  it  upon  the 
oars,  one  end  of  which  was  laid  upon  a  log,  and  the 
other  upon  the  ground,  which  was  very  wet.  This 
done,  we  hauled  the  canoe  ashore,  and  laid  some  boards, 
which  were  in  the  bottom,  on  the  top  of  the  cross  bars ; 

13 


290 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


on  these  we  placed  ihe  beds,  and  thus  prepared  lodging 
for  the  ladies,  and  Emory,  our  little  boV)  and  a  little 
girl  that  Mrs.  K.  had  taken  to  live  with  her. 

We  then  struck  a  fire,  having  found  a  few  sticks, 
which  were  V3ry  scarce  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile: 
and  after  some  time  we  prevailed  on  the  ladies  to  retire 
into  their  strange  bed-chamber;  but  they  found  room  to 
lie  down ;  after  which  we  rigged  a  pole  over  them, 
over  which  we  stretched  a  pair  of  sheets,  which  formed 
a  kind  of  tent ;  and  now,  supposing  they  would  be 
tolerably  comfortable,  I  determined  to  watch  all  night, 
while  Mr.  Smith,  who  was  very  weary,  took  a  mat,  and 
lay  down  in  the  grass,  and  fell  asleep. 

I  remained  sitting  on  a  mat  over  the  remains  of  our 
small  fire,  in  company  with  the  Indians.  An  hour 
passed  away  rather  pleasantly,  but  then  it  commenced 
raining.  This  was  a  new  and  unexpected  trial.  I 
awoke  Mr.  Smith,  who  was  shivering  with  the  cold, 
having  lain  upon  a  frail  mat  upon  the  wet  ground.  We 
found  ourselves  in  possession  of  two  umbrellas,  one  of 
which  we  put  over  our  flour,  and  the  other  we  held 
over  ourselves,  while  we  hovered  over  our  small  re- 
maininff  fire,  which  would  afford  us  a  little  light  and 
heat.  That  was  a  long  night,  bringing,  as  it  passed 
away,  many  heavy  showers.  Becoming  quite  hungry, 
we  get  out  some  flour,  and  baked  some  dough  cakes. 
This  work  was  performed,  not  according  to  the  most 
refined  methods  of  domestic  cookery,  but  sufficiently 
methodical  to  satisfy  the  calls  of  appetite.  And  we 
can  assure  our  readers  that  if  our  old  friend  Smith 
should  ever  fall  in  with  this  volume,  and  read  this  para- 
graph, he  would  instantly  recollect  having  pronounced 
those  cakes  "  very  sweet."  We  spent  the  remainder 
of  the  night  in  talking  of  almost  everything  that  we 
could  think  of,  in  order  to  keep  awake,  being  interrupted 
occasionally  by  the  ladies,  who  would  inquire  very 
anxiously  if  it  was  near  day.  At  length  the  eastern 
horizon  gave  indications  of  approaching  light ;  and  as 
soon  as  we  could  well  discern  the  pathway  that  led  to 


I   I 


V    ' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


1291 


our  dwelling,  I  took  my  little  boy  on  my  back,  and 
was  followed  by  the  ladies,  who  were  by  no  means 
dry,  hoping  soon  to  find  a  more  comfortable  place.  We 
reached  our  cabin  just  in  time  to  partake  with  Mr.  Kone 
of  a  fine  pair  of  roasted  brant,  which  refreshed  us  much, 
and  caused  our  unfioored  cabin  to  appear  more  pleasant 
than  if  it  had  been  a  palace  without  food  to  replenish 
our  wasting  frames. 

The  sun  had  now  risen ;  and  after  attending  to  our 
morning's  devotions,  and  sending  some  breakfast  to  Mr. 
Smith,  who  remained  with  the  canoe,  I  left  the  family, 
who  set  about  clearing  out  the  rubbish,  and  making 
arrangements  for  housekeeping,  and  returned  to  assist 
in  bringing  home  our  cargo.  This  was  accomplished, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  heavy  articles,  before  night. 

The  rainy  season  had  now  commenced ;  and  although 
that  day  proved  to  be  one  of  sunshine,  we  could  not 
expect  but  that  there  would  be  many  of  a  different 
character  soon.  Therefore,  after  setting  up  our  bed- 
steads upon  the  ^ound,  and  arranging  some  little  neces- 
saries in  the  cabin,  it  was  determined  that  Mr.  Kone 
and  Smith  should  return  to  Astoria  for  a  load  of  provi- 
sions, etc.,  and  I  should  meet  them  the  next  day  at  the 
canoe  landing,  to  assist  in  getting  the  cargo  to  the  house. 

I  spent  the  following  night  very  comfortably  with  the 
family;  and  meeting  my  associates  in  the  morning,  ac- 
cording to  appointment,  we  succeeded  in  conveying  to 
our  cabin,  with  the  help  of  a  few  Indians,  a  barrel  of 
pork,  which  we  had  brought  from  Walamet,  which  was 
very  near  being  lost  ai  the  time  our  canoe  was  wrecked, 
some  molasses,  a  barrel  of  salmon,  purchased  from  Mr. 
Birnie,  eight  hundred  weight  of  flour,  obtained  at  Van- 
couver, and  a  keg  of  butter. 

Having  now  a  cover  for  our  heads,  and  a  supply  of 
food  for  some  time,  Mr.  Smith  set  to  work  to  prepare 
for  his  own  family,  which  was  still  at  the  other  end  of 
the  plain.  Having  obtained  some  plank  from  an  Indian, 
which  had  been  split  out  of  a  cedfar  log,  I  helped  him 
to  cut  some  crotches  and  poles,  and  assisted  him  about 


i^ 


i.  \ 


292 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


hi 


puttins  up  a  cabin  about  eight  by  ten  feet,  and  high 
enoucn  in  the  centre  to  permit  a  man  to  stand  nearly 
upright.  This  we  covered  with  shingles ;  and  the  next 
day  his  family  came  up,  and  took  their  lodging  there, 
so  that  we  had  not  only  a  house,  but  neighbours  also. 

Mr.  Kone  and  myself  now  set  about  sawing  off  logs 
and  splitting  out  "  puncheons,"  or  short  plank,  which 
an  Indian  carried  to  the  building.  We  then  put  in 
some  sleepers>  laid  down  our  plank  in  tiers,  nailed 
them  fast,  and  smoothed  them  as  well  as  we  could  with 
an  adze.  In  this  way  we  succeeded  in  putting  about 
two-thirds  of  a  floor  in  our  house,  and  having  ceiled  it 
within  with  rush  mats,  which  we  purchased  from  the 
Indian  women,  and  calked  it  with  moss  without,  we 
began  to  think  we  were  quite  comfortable.  During 
this  time  Mr.  Smith  was  getting  out  logs  for  a  house 
for  himself,  and  I  helped  him  lay  it  up,  which  was 
fifteen  feet  square. 

The  month  of  December  now  arrived,  and  the  south- 
east storms  began  to  break  upon  our  dwelling  with  tre- 
mendous force  ;  and  as  we  had  not  made  calculations 
for  such  drifting  rains  when  we  shingled  our  cabin,  we 
found  the  south  side  of  the  roof  to  leak  like  a  sieve. 
This  was  a  great  aflliction  to  us,  as  it  frequently  wet 
Mrs.  Kone's  bed ;  and  the  more  than  usual  degree  of 
dampness  thus  brought  into  the  room  rendered  it  un- 
healthy. But  we  trusted  in  God,  and  hoped  for  better 
things ;  and,  notwithstanding  all  these  embarrassments, 
and  many  which  it  is  not  necessary  to  mention,  the 
hope  of  being  instrumental  in  planting  the  gospel  stand- 
ara  in  this  benighted  region  kept  the  heart  whole,  and 
proved  a  powerful  stimulant  to  future  action. 

About  the  middle  of  December  we  found  that  our 
store  of  flour  began  to  run  low  :  so  it  became  neces- 
sary to  make  another  trip  to  Astoria.  This  we  dread- 
ed to  undertake,  as  the  path  through  the  marsh  and 
timber  land  from  the  head  of  canoe  navigation  to  the 
plains  had  become  exceedingly  diflicult  from  the  vast 
amount  of  water  which  had  already  fallen ;   but  our 


"'■  ■*„  !>! 


TEN   YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


293 


flour  we  must  hav^,  and  other  necessaries  also.  So 
Mr.  Smith  and  myself  set  out  again,  with  some  Indian 
help,  for  the  fort.  On  our  arrival  at  that  place  \  e  found 
that  Mr.  Tibits,  for  whom  we  had  been  looking  for 
some  time,  had  arrived,  and  a  black  man  by  the  name 
of  Wallace,  who  had  deserted  from  the  Maryland  while 
she  was  in  the  river,  in  company  with  him.  This  was 
a  source  of  joy  to  us,  as  we  hoped  to  have  another 
accession  to  our  small  neighbourhood. 

After  a  short  interview  with  our  new  neighbours,  we 
loaded  our  canoes  and  returned  to  the  Clatsop  shore, 
being  accompanied  by  Mr.  Tibits.  We  proceeded 
about  half  way  up  the  Skapanowin,  and  encamped  for 
the  night,  and  the  next  morning  reached  the  old  landing 
place.  We  succeeded  in  carrying  all  our  effects 
through  to  the  plain,  but  frequentiyssunk  into  the  mire 
up  to  our  knees,  and  were  many  times  in  danger  of 
falling  from  logs,  which  we  were  obliged  to  cross,  into 
the  water  beneath ;  and  with  much  hard  labour  we 
reached  our  homes  just  at  nightfall,  leaving  Mr.  Tibits, 
who  had  become  very  much  discouraged,  to  camp  on 
the  plain.  This  day  s  toil  rendered  our  cabin  a  very 
desirable  place,  and  a  comfortable  supper  more  refresh- 
ing to  us  than  the  most  costly  meal  to  the  full-fed,  in- 
dolent, gouty  epicure. 

Previous  to  this  Mr.  Kone  and  myself  had  succeed- 
ed in  putting  up  a  cabin,  in  addition  to  the  one  we  oc- 
cupied, in  the  form  of  an  Indian  lodge,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  our  Indian  visiters,  who  frequently  stayed 
all  night  and  slept  upon  the  floor  in  our  house.  We 
did  not  like  to  turn  them  out  of  doors  in  the  storm  lest 
ihey  should  become  offended,  but  it  was  very  unplea- 
sant, as  our  bed-rooms  were  only  partitioned  off  with 
sheets ;  and  we  were  very  happy  when  we  were  able 
to  introduce  our  neighbours  to  the  apartment  especially 
set  apart  for  their  accommodation.  We  employed  the 
coloured  man  who  came  with  Mr.  Tibits,  whose  help 
was  very  much  needed  at  this  time,  as  our  strength 
wa»  nearly  exhausted. 


i^^f;.' " 


294 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Our  time,  which  could  be  spared  from  daily  labour, 
was  frequently  employed  in  conversing  with  the  In- 
dians about  God  and  the  Bible ;  but  as  we  could  not 
yet  speak  their  language  well,  our  means  of  communi- 
cating truth  to  them  were  very  limited  ;  but,  to  supply 
this  want  on  our  part,  we  frequently  employed  Mr. 
Smith  and  his  wite  as  interpreters— endeavouring  in 
this  way  to  sow  some  of  the  good  seed  of  the  kingdom 
while  we  were  labouring  with  our  hands  to  supply  the 
necessary  wants  of  our  families. 

Messrs.  Kone,  Smith,  Tibits,  and  myself  set  out 
soon  after  this  for  the  shore  of  the  Columbia  in  a  north- 
erly direction  from  our  house,  for  the  purpose  of  ascer- 
taining whether  we  could  not  make  a  road  to  the  river 
by  that  route  upon  dry  ground,  as  it  had  become  im- 
possible to  convey  our  famiture  and  further  supplies 
&om  Astoria  to  our  place  by  the  old  route  until  the 
next  summer,  because  of  the  accumulated  waters. 
After  travelling  about  four  miles  in  a  direct  line  through 
thickets  which  were  almost  impenetrable,  and  across  a 
wide  salt  marsh,  we  struck  the  river  about  half  way 
between  Young^s  Bay  and  Point  Adams.  Here  we 
found  a  convenient  place  to  build,  but  were  satisfied 
that  it  was  impracticable  to  open  a  road  from  that  to 
our  location  on  the  plain.  Alter  much  consultation,  it 
was  decided  that  it  would  be  easier  to  construct  a  build- 
ing here  of  sufficient  size  for  the  more  comfortable  ac- 
commodation of  Mr.  Kone^s  family  and  mine,  and  to 
which  we  could  remove  our  goods  from  Astoria  by 
water,  than  to  remain  where  we  were  and  labour  to  get 
our  effects  and  provisions  to  that  place  while  we  re- 
mained entirely  destitute  of  a  team ;  especially  as  all 
our  neighbours  agreed  to  assist  in  building.  And  in 
addition  to  the  above  considerations,  it  was  believed 
that  it  would  be  expedient  for  the  future  prosperity  of 
the  station,  when  we  should  obtain  teams,  for  one  fam- 
ily to  remain  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  where  the  mis- 
sionary would  have  immediate  access  to  the  Indians 
during  salmon  season,  as  they  would  then  be  all  on  the 


'^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


295 


banks  of  the  river ;  and  that  the  other  should  reside  on 
the  plain,  where  provisions  could  be  raised  for  the  sup- 
port of  the  station  without  having  to  go  to  the  Walamet 
for  everything  of  this  kind,  and  from  whence  the  mis- 
sionary from  this  place  of  residence  could  have  access 
to  the  Clatsops  at  their  winter  residence  at  Neacoxy, 
and  the  Killemooks  to  the  south  during  the  rainy  season. 

We  now  returned  to  the  plain,  and  after  maturing 
our  plans,  we  set  out  on  the  24th  of  December  for  the 
place  where  we  contemplated  building.  Mr.  Tibits 
and  Wallace,  and  an  Indian,  went  by  the  way  of  the 
Skapanowin  with  a  canoe,  for  the  purpose  of  convey- 
ing our  tools,  provisions,  tents,  etc.,  while  Messrs.  Smith, 
Kone,  and  myself  went  by  the  way  of  the  beach,  and 
met  according  to  appointment  on  the  bank  of  the  river. 
Here  we  pitched  our  tents,  and  after  selecting  a  spot 
for  our  house,  Mr.  Kone  and  myself  returned  to  our 
families,  our  men  having  engaged  to  proceed  next 
morning  to  cutting  logs.  We  now  carried  and  cut 
wood  sufficient  for  use  during  the  sabbath,  and  then  sat 
down  to  enjoy  the  comforts  of  home  and  the  smiles  of 
our  families  until  the  following  Monday. 

After  this  I  spent  a  week  in  helping  on  with  the 
building  while  Mr.  Kone  took  charge  of  the  families, 
and  then  he  would  spend  a  week  at  the  building  while 
I  would  remain  at  home.  In  this  way  we  succeeded, 
with  our  help,  to  get  up  a  log  house  twenty  by  thirty 
feet  square,  and  one  story  high,  covered  it  with  shingles, 
and  finished  off  our  room  with  a  floor  above  and  below 
consisting  of  rough  fir  boards  which  we  obtained  at 
Vancouver,  and  which  had  been  lying  at  Astoria  since 
the  time  I  came  down  with  Mr.  Kone's  family,  but 
which  we  had  been  unable  to  remove  to  the  plain,  and 
having  calked  this  room  with  moss,  we  were  ready  to 
remove  to  our  new  dwelling  on  the  10th  of  February. 
We  accomplished  our  removal  by  carrying  Mrs.  Kone 
on  a  chair  the  most  of  the  way,  as  she  was  very  feeble 
in  consequence  of  having  been  very  ill ;  while  Mrs. 
Frost  and  children  went   on  foot ;   and   we   reached 


.#^ 


296 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


our  new  dwelling  before  night,  having  made  the  tedious 
journey  of  seven  miles  on  the  beach  of  the  ocean  and 
river  around  Point  Adams.  The  Indians  now  came  up 
with  our  beds  and  some  provisions,  etc.,  and  after  pre- 
paring a  cup  of  tea,  we  got  some  wood  and  made  all 
ihe  other  preparations  in  our  power  to  enjoy  the  sab- 
bath, which  was  the  following  day. 

During  the  next  week  we  removed  the  remainder  of 
our  effects  from  the  plain.  And  as  soon  as  we  were 
a  little  recovered  from  the  effects  produced  by  these 
labours,  Mr.  Kone  and  myself  finished  off  the  other 
part  of  the  house,  so  that  we  now  had  each  a  room  of 
fifteen  by  twenty  feet  in  size,  and  a  tight  roof  over  our 
heads,  and  felt  thankful  that  we  were  thus  comfortably 
situated. 

Mr.  Tibits  and  Smith  now  commenced  a  cabin  on 
each  side  of  us,  and  before  the  salmon  season  com- 
menced our  two  neighbours  were  enjoying  the  cover  of 
their  own  roofs. 

We  had  not  enjoyed  our  new  residence  long  before 
it  was  evident  that  Mrs.  Kone's  health  was  such  that 
medical  aid  would  soon  be  indispensable,  and  as  it  be- 
came necessary  for  Mr.  Smith  to  go  to  the  Walamet 
for  supplies,  a  statement  of  her  case  was  communicated 
to  Dr.  Babcock,  our  physician,  and  in  about  two  weeks 
aftei-ward  the  doctor  and  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Leslie  and 
Waller  came  down  to  make  us  a  visit.  We  were  happy 
to  have  the  privilege  of  spending  a  few  days  with  them. 
Finding  Mrs.  Kone  still  able  to  be  removed,  the  bre- 
thren determined  to  take  her  to  Vancouver.  To  this 
we  did  not  object,  although  myself  and  family  were  to 
be  entirely  left  alone,  as  Mr.  Tibits  had  just  gone  to 
Walamet  tor  supplies,  and  Mr.  Smith  had  not  returned. 

After  making  the  necessary  arrangements,  they  took 
their  leave,  taking  Mr.  Kone  and  family  with  them. 
This  left  no  civilized  man  nearer  to  us  than  Astoria, 
which  was  six  miles  distant  across  Young's  Bay,  and 
with  this  exception  there  was  no  other  white  resident 
on  the  river  until  we  reached  Vancouver,  the  distance 


■  '''I , ,; 


fe 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


297 


of  one  hundred  miles  from  us.  But  we  considered 
ourselves  safe  while  under  the  protection  of  our  hea^ 
venly  Father.  On  the  following  morning  Mr.  Smith 
returned  from  the  Walamet.  He  had  obtained  a  boat 
from  Vancouver,  and,  with  much  difficulty,  had  brought 
down  a  pair  of  horses  with  which  to  commence  farming 
on  the  plain,  and  we  rejoiced  very  much  in  the  pros- 
pect of  being  no  longer  obliged  to  supply  the  place  of 
a  beast  of  burden  ourselves.  That  day  Mr.  Smith's 
family  moved  into  one  of  our  rooms.  Mr.  S.  then  left 
to  take  the  boat  home,  and  bring  down  his  canoe  loaded 
with  provisions,  and  while  he  was  absent  Mr.  Tibits 
returned  ;  so  we  were  not  long  without  company. 

The  following  extract  from  his  journal  will  exhibit 
the  writer's  feehngs  at  that  time  : —  ■'  ^ 

"  My  cause  is  before  the  Lord,  and  I  would  fully 
confide  in  his  wisdom  and  goodness,  to  preserve  me 
and  mine,  although  in  an  Indian  country  surrounded 
with  intense  moral  darkness,  and  to  guide  us  in  the 
way  that  will  be  acceptable  in  his  sight.  O  what 
degradation  do  we  witness  every  day !  What  wretch- 
edness have  we  seen  since  we  have  sojourned  in  this 
wilderness !  Is  not  the  time  coming  when  this  desert 
will  bud  and  blossom  ?  Is  not  the  day  hastening  on 
when  the  peaceful  reign  of  the  Messiah  shall  be  estab- 
lished here,  where  our  fellow-men  are  now  universally 
led  captive  by  the  devil  at  his  will  ?  0  Lord,  hasten 
to  come  and  take  possession  of  the  purchase  of  thy 
blood !  Turn  and  overturn,  until  the  wickedness  of 
the  wicked  shall  come  to  an  end,  and  when  truth  and 
righteousness  shall  universally  prevail." 

Mr.  Smith  removed  his  family  to  the  plain  in  the 
course  of  a  week,  for  the  purpose  of  planting  some  pota- 
toes and  some  garden  vegetables;  so  that  our  only 
neighbour  consisted  of  Mr.  Tibits,  and  as  he  was  a 
bachelor,  Mrs.  Frost  had  no  female  associate.  While 
Mr.  Kone's  family  were  with  us,  and  Messrs.  Smith  and 
Tibits  were  near  us,  we  had  quite  a  congregation  to 
hear  the  word  preached,  and  to  unite  in  the  worship  of 

13» 


' 


■iii? 


298 


TKN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


God ;  but  now  my  congregation  consisted  of  Mr. 
Tibits,  Mrs.  Frost,  and  our  little  son,  who  were  all  that 
could  understand  English.  To  these  I  would  preach 
the  word  on  the  sabbath,  and  when  the  Indians  came 
in,  which  was  very  seldom,  I  would  speak  to  them  in 
their  own  tongue,  which  by  this  time  we  could  speak 
very  well,  but  we  found  it  altogether  insufficient  as  a 
medium  by  which  to  communicate  to  their  dark  minds 
the  doctrines  of  the  gospel.  And  as  they  had  now  come 
up  to  take  possession  of  their  summer  residence,  I  used 
to  go  to  their  lodges  to  converse  with  them  upon  the 
subject  of  religion  ;  and  requested  them  to  meet  in  the 
chief's  lodge  for  the  purpose  of  hearing  me  explain  the 
Bible  to  them  on  the  sabbath.  This  they  promised  to 
do,  and  the  chief  engaged  to  use  his  innuence  to  get 
them  together  for  that  purpose.  The  next  sabbath  I 
attended  the  appointment,  and  found  several  at  the 
lodge.  I  sung  a  hymn  and  prayed  with  them,  and  then 
read  a  portion  of  the  Scriptures  and  gave  such  expla- 
nations as  circumstances  would  permit,  and  closed  the 
interview.  They  said  that  this  was  good,  and  that 
they  would  all  attend  the  next  sabbath.  But  when  the 
next  sabbath  came  they  had  scattered :  some  were 
shooting  wild  fowl,  and  others  were  fishing ;  so  that  I 
had  none  to  preach  to  but  the  old  chief  and  his  wives 
and  slave.  ^ .  ^^  .  > 

On  the  22d  of  April  an  Indian  arrived  from  Vancou- 
ver bringing  a  note  from  Mr.  Kone,  by  which  we  were 
informed  that  Mrs.  Kone  had  presented  him  with  a  son 
on  the  18th,  and  that  all  were  doing  well.  I  received  a 
note  from  the  superintendent  requesting  me  to  attend  the 
annual  meeting  at  Walamet  on  the  first  Monday  in 
May.  We  now  determined  to  go  up  to  Vancouver, 
where  I  would  leave  my  family,  and  if  Providence 
favoured  the  design  I  would  go  up  to  the  Walamet, 
Mr.  Smith  having  promised  to  come  up  from  the  plain 
and  take  care  of  our  house  and  efifects  during  our 
absence. 

The  following  extract  was  recorded  in  my  journal  at 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


299 


that  time  :  "  I  find  my  health  much  impaired ;  so  much 
so  that  the  cutting,  clearing,  and  carrying  wood  for  our 
fire,  and  attending  to  the  other  necessary  jobs  about  the 
house,  are  attended  with  considerable  pain ;  but  my 
hope  is  in  God,  and  my  desire  for  the  salvation  of  the 
heathen  is  not  abated.  While  I  make  this  record,  Mrs. 
Frost  lies  by  my  side  on  the  bed  sick  with  the  head- 
ache, and  our  little  boy  is  playing  about  the  floor,  jab- 
bering to  himself  in  the  Indian  tongue,  which  he  ac- 
quires very  readily." 

April  24th.  The  salmon  season  has  now  commenced, 
and  we  were  invited  yesterday  to  partake  with  our  red 
neighbours  at  Wasulsul's  lodge,  he  being  one  of  the 
head  men  and  our  nearest  neighbour,  living  about 
half  a  mile  from  our  house.  We  accepted  the  invita- 
tion ;  and  taking  some  knives,  forks,  and  plates,  bread, 
pepper,  and  salt,  went  up  to  the  lodge,  where,  in  the 
head  man's  department,  a  clean  mat  was  spread  for  our 
reception.  We  entered  and  seated  ourselves  in  good 
Indian  style,  and  then  witnessed  ihe  following  opera- 
tion. They  had  succeeded  in  taking  four  salmon, 
weighing  from  fifteen  to  thirty  pounds  each,  which 
were  lying  side  by  side  upon  a  mat,  with  their  heads 
toward  the  west,  and  were  covered  with  another  mat. 
The  wood  was  now  brought  in,  and  the  women  and 
slaves  kindled  a  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  lodge  about 
ten  feet  in  length,  over  which  there  was  a  frame  con- 
structed something  in  the  form  of  a  large  gridiron,  made 
of  round  sticks,  and  raised  about  three  feet  from  the 
fire.  As  soon  as  the  fire  commenced  blazing,  one  of 
the  men  stepped  forward  with  a  knife  and  cut  one  of 
the  salmon  round  the  neck,  then  split  it  down  the  back 
each  side  of  the  bone,  so  that  it  was  taken  out  while  it 
was  left  attached  to  the  head.  The  head  and  back  bone 
were  then  laid  on  the  frame  over  the  fire  to  roast,  ob- 
serving to  keep  the  tail  toward  the  east,  while  an  old 
man  had  some  nice  sticks  prepared,  by  splitting  them 
at  one  end  and  sharpening  them  at  the  other.  In  the 
split  of  one  of  these  the  broad-sides  of  the  salmon, 


m*' 


ti 


1 1 


'«?'' 


.I-  M 


300 


TEN  YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


which  were  connected  by  the  belly,  were  placed,  and 
sniall  sticks  placed  across  the  sides  in  an  opposite 
direction,  that  it  might  not  hang  down  or  drop  on  when 
it  became  tender  by  cooking.  The  two  parts  of  the  stick 
were  then  tied  together  with  some  green  grass  which 
would  not  burn  very  readily ;  and  being  thus  secured 
in  a  proper  position  to  receive  the  heat  on  all  its  parts, 
it  was  set  up  before  the  fire  by  sticking  the  sharp  end 
in  the  ground.  In  this  way  the  four  salmon  were  soon 
hissing  and  smoking,  and  sending  forth  a  most  delicious 
perfume  throughout  the  lodge  ;  and  the  slaves  and  chil- 
dren prepared  the  entrails  for  eating  much  in  the  same 
way. 

While  the  salmon  were  roasting,  the  men  related  one 
of  their  traditions,  which  was  of  the  following  import : 
"  A  long  time  ago,  Talapus,"  that  is,  one  of  their  ima- 
ginary deities,  ''  came  this  way  from  the  south,  in  the 
form  of  the  little  wolf,  and  made  all  this  land  from 
Cape  Lookout  to  Young's  Bay  ;  and  finding  the  people 
very  poOr,  and  having  nothing  to  eat  but  elk,  and  bear, 
and  deer,  and  wild  fowl,  he  made  the  salmon  ;  and 
when  they  commenced  to  run  up  the  river,  he  made  a 
seine,  ana  placing  the  snake  on  the  shore  to  hold  the 
land  line,  he  went  out  in  the  canoe  and  threw  the  net. 
Then  coming  on  shore,  he  and  the  snake  drew  the  net 
to  land,  which  contained  a  great  draught  of  salmon. 
He  now  ordered  them  to  be  taken  to  the  lodge  and  laid 
with  their  heads  to  the  west  until  toward  night,  when 
the  fire  was  prepared  as  above  described  :  and  Talapus 
learned  their  fathers  how  to  cut  the  fish  and  roast  them, 
and  told  them  that  for  some  time  they  must  not  eat  only 
in  the  afternoon  of  each  day,  and  that  if  any  of  them 
should  touch  a  dead  body,  or  eat  vermin,  until  the 
strawberries  began  to  ripen,  the  salmon  would  all  leave 
the  river,  unless  those  who  had  thus  defiled  themselves 
should  be  prohibited  from  touching  a  salmon  for  a  spe- 
cified number  of  days ;  and  that  the  same  results  would 
follow  if  their  women,  under  certain  circumstances, 
(who  were  also  prohibited  from  enjoying  the  privileges 


j^'- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


301 


of  their  houses,  as  it  is  their  universal  custom  on  such 
occasions,)  should  look  upon  a  salmon  net;  and  that 
until  that  time  arrived  when  the  hemes  began  to  ripen, 
which  is  about  the  first  of  June,  they  must  cook  the 
salmon  in  precisely  the  same  way,  anci  none  of  if.  must 
be  taken  out  of  the  lodge  in  which  it  was  cooked.  But 
as  soon  as  the  specified  time  arrived,  they  were  at  lib- 
erty to  cook  the  salmon  as  they  might  see  proper,  and 
sell  them  to  whom  they  pleased." 

The  fact  that  they  fully  beheve  that  this  is  a  law 
imposed  upon  them  by  their  deity,  and  that  such  dis- 
tressing results  would  follow,  namely,  the  removal  of 
all  the  salmon,  if  this  law  should  be  transgressed,  ac- 
counts for  the  most  barbarous  practice  among  them — 
of  burying  their  people  alive  at  the  commencement  of 
the  salmon  season,  an  instance  of  which  has  been 
already  related. 

The  salmon  was  now  pronounced  well  done,  and  it 
was  taken  down  and  placed  in  a  shallow  trough  made 
of  cedar,  and  our  plates  were  filled  with  the  choice 

{)ieces,  and  placed  before  us.  We  now  divided  our 
oaf  of  bread  among  the  company,  and  all  hands  com- 
menced feasting,  except  the  man  who  prepared  the  fish 
for  roasting,  for  Talapus  had  prohibited  him  from  tasting 
a  morsel  for  a  certain  number  of  days  ;  and,  notwith- 
standing this  seemed  to  be  a  very  self-denying  work, 
as  they  had  not  had  good  fat  salmon  for  a  great  many 
moons,  our  cook  submitted  with  all  cheerfulness,  and 
made  his  feast  upon  bread  and  whale  grease,  of  which 
they  had  had  a  great  abundance  during  the  past  winter. 
The  feast  was  now  ended,  and  as  there  was  a  part 
of  our  share  left  upon  our  plates,  we  were  told  that  we 
might  have  it  and  come  the  next  afternoon  and  finish  it ; 
but  as  we  thought  it  would  not  be  convenient  for  us  to 
do  so,  the  remnants  were  divided  among  the  children, 
and  the  plates,  knives,  and  forks  were  washed,  so  that 
none  of  the  salmon  might  be  carried  out  of  the  lodge ; 
and  then  we  were  permitted  to  depart  in  peace  to  our 
home. 


II 


■f 


u 


Mil 


IH 


.im^j-.' 


302 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


I : 


r  •<■•  1 


.'«v. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Mr.  Frost  attends  the  yearly  meeting  at  Walamet — Manual  Labour 
School — The  Oregon  Institute — Visiters — Extracts  from  Mr.  Frost's  jour- 
nal— Exploring  expedition — Messrs.  Smith  and  Frost's  journey  to  and  from 
Walamet — Kilemook  Indians — Mr.  Kone  and  family  return  to  the  United 
States — Extracts  from  Mr.  Frost's  journal — Arrival  of  vessels — Immorality 
of  seamen  who  visited  Oregon — Reflections — Indians  obtain  ardent  spirits, 
and  proceed  to  murder  one  another — Some  of  the  missionaries  embark  for 
the  United  States — Death  of  Rev.  James  OUey — Awful  disaster-  -Return 
of  missionaries  to  the  United  States,  and  conclusion. 

We  left  home  for  Vancouver  in  an  Indian  canoe  on 
the  29th  of  April,  and  tarried  with  Mr.  Birnie  at  As- 
toria the  following  night.  Here  we  had  a  conversation 
with  Captain  Varney,  of  the  brig  Thomas  Pirkins,  of 
Salem,  Mass.  The  brig  was  partly  freighted  with  sup- 
plies for  the  United  States  exploring  expedition,  which 
the  captain  assured  us  might  be  expected  to  enter  the 
river  every  day. 

On  the  following  night  we  reached  Oak  Point,  which 
was  nearly  half  way  from  Astoria  to  Vancouver.  Here 
we  pitched  our  tent ;  and  now  it  began  to  rain,  so  that 
it  was  exceedingly  damp  and  chilly  through  the  night. 
The  next  day,  being  sabbath,  we  did  not  design  to  move 
camp ;  and  before  noon  Mrs.  Frost  was  taken  with  a 
fit  of  the  ague,  symptoms  of  which  disease  had  been 
hanging  about  her  system  since  the  previous  autumn. 
A  nd  now  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very  distressing  situa- 
tion, as  we  had  no  medicine  ;  and  as  everything  was 
so  very  damp,  because  of  the  rain,  we  hardly  knew 
what  course  to  pursue.  But  I  directed  my  Indians  to 
get  what  wood  they  could,  with  which  we  replenished 
our  fire  ;  I  then  heated  a  stone,  which  I  put  to  Mrs.  F.'s 
feet,  and  made  her  a  cup  of  hot  tea,  which  prescription 
had  a  tendency  to  relieve  the  pain  in  her  head ;  and 
when  the  fit  had  subsided,  and  the  storm  abated,  we 
determined  to  move  camp  a  few  miles  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Cawalitz  River,  where  we  could  obtain  a  supply  of 
fuel,  that  we  might  get  a  fire  sufidcient  to  dry  our  clothes. 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


303 


We  packed  all  into  the  canoe,  and  set  off;  but  had  not 
gone  more  than  a  mile  when  it  commenced  raining 
again,  and  it  poured  down  to  that  degree  that  we  were 
literally  drenched  in  a  few  minutes.  We  succeeded, 
however,  in  reaching  the  desired  camping  place,  went 
on  shore,  pitched  our  tent,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 
Indians  kindled  a  rousing  fire.  The  clouds  passed  off, 
and  we  dried  our  clothes  and  blankets,  and  lodged  rather 
comfortably  for  the  night. 

We  set  out  early  in  the  morning  for  Vancouver ;  and 
during  the  day  Mrs.  F.  had  another  fit  of  the  ague,  and 
as  we  were  labouring  to  reach  the  fort  that  day,  in  order 
that  we  might  obtain  medical  aid,  she  passed  through 
the  chill  lying  in  the  canoe,  which  was  exceedingly  dis- 
tressing ;  and  the  succeeding  fever  reduced  her  strength 
to  that  degree  that  when  we  reached  the  landing  place, 
at  about  sun-setting,  she  was  scarcely  able  to  walk  to 
the  fort.  But  as  soon  as  we  arrived  the  physician  very 
kindly  administered  some  medicine,  which  soon  relieved 
her. 

Finding  Mrs.  F.'s  health  improved,  I  left  her  on  the 
following  Wednesday  with  Mrs.  Kone,  at  Vancouver, 
and  set  off  for  Walamet,  and  reached  there  on  Friday, 
and  was  happy  to  find  so  many  of  the  brethren  in  health. 
We  had  a  very  harmonious  annual  meeting,  which  con- 
tinued its  session  nearly  two  weeks.  During  this  ses- 
sion a  committee  was  appointed  for  the  purpose  of 
selecting  a  location  for  the  new  manual  labour  school- 
house;  and  this  committee  afterward  fixed  upon  a  site 
near  the  mission  saw-mill,  where  the  school-house  has 
since  been  erected. 

A  committee  was  also  appointed  with  powers  for  the 
purpose  of  getting  up  a  literary  institution  for  the  edu- 
cation of  the  youth  of  Oregon.  This  institution  was  to 
be  denominated  "  The  Oregon  Institute."  This  praise- 
worthy design  was  carried  so  far  into  effect,  through 
the  efforts  of  individuals  in  the  country,  previous  to 
my  last  visit  to  the  Walamet,  as  to  have  erected  a  frame 
building  of  a  very  respectable  size  for  the  accommoda- 


I  '■( 


i; 


9  '1- 


i 


i    "H 


f:      I- 


II 


m 


i 


I 


.■/  ■ 


304 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


tion  of  the  school,  which  building  was  then  enclosed ; 
and  Mr.  Gray  and  lady,  formerly  of  the  mission  in  the 
interior,  were  engaged  as  teachers. 

On  my  return  to  Vancouver  I  had  the  pleasure  to 
be  made  acquainted  with  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Smith  and 
Clark,  and  ladies,  from  the  interior.  These  gentlemen 
were  very  much  discouraged  in  view  of  the  prospects 
of  being  useful  in  Oregon,  so  much  so  that  Mr.  Smith 
determined  to  leave  the  country,  his  lady  also  being  in 
very  deHcate  health. 

While  I  remained  at  the  fort  I  formed  a  very  pleasant 
acquaintance  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Griffin  also,  of  whom 
mention  has  heretofore  been  made. 

We  left  Vancouver  the  next  day  after  my  return  from 
Walamet,  and  proceeded  to  our  station  at  Clatsop ;  and 
left  Mr.  Kone's  family  at  the  fort,  as  Mrs.  Kone's  health 
would  not  yet  admit  of  a  removal.  We  reached  our 
home  on  the  third  day  after  we  left  our  kind  friends  at 
Vancouver,  and  found  all  things  in  peace  and  safety. 

During  my  absence  from  home  the  Vincennes,  under 
the  command  of  Lieut.  Wilkes,  of  the  United  States 
exploring  expedition,  had  arrived  at  Nasqually ;  and 
after  arranging  matters  there,  he  came  across  the  country 
to  Astoria,  being  accompanied  by  Mr.  Waldron,  purser 
of  the  Vincennes,  and  another  gentleman.  Mr.  Wilkes 
came  over  in  company  with  Mr.  Birnie.  and  dined  with 
us  in  our  log-cabin ;  after  which  we  went  down  to  Point 
Adams,  to  look  out  for  the  Peacock,  another  vessel  of 
the  squadron,  which  had  been  ordered  to  the  Columbia, 
and  which  was  expected  before  this. 

On  the  25th  of  May  I  crossed  over  to  Astoria,  where 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  an  introduction  to  Mr.  Waldron, 
in  whose  society  I  was  very  much  interested,  and  with 
whom  I  spent  most  of  the  day,  Mr.  Wilkes  and  the  other 
gentleman  having  left  for  Vancouver.  I  will  also  men- 
tion here  that  during  my  absence  from  home  the  bark 
Wave,  Capt.  More,  from  England,  arrived  with  a  cargo 
of  goods  for  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company. 

Slay  dOth,  sabbath.    Preached  from  these  words, 


It 


.ifii_.' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


305 


"  Let  your  light  so  shine  before  men  that  they  may 
see  your  good  works,  and  glorify  your  Father  which  is 
in  heaven,"  having  my  two  neighbours,  Mr.  Smith  and 
Tibits,  and  my  family  who  could  understand  English, 
for  my  congregation. 

On  the  1st  of  June  Mr.  J.  Lee,  the  superintendent 
of  the  mission,  and  lady,  and  Mr.  Whilcomb  and  family, 
came  down  tp  make  us  a  visit.  Mr.  W.  came  down  for 
the  benefit  of  the  sea  air,  as  his  health  was  very  feeble. 

Mr.  Kone  and  family  also  returned  to  their  home 
with  us ;  and  as  it  had  been  decided  by  the  superin- 
tendent that  Mr.  Kone  might  put  up  a  frame-house  for 
the  more  comfortable  accommodation  of  his  family, 
lumber  had  been  sent  down  from  Vancouver  for  the 
purpose,  and  a  carpenter  came  from  the  Walamet  to 
do  the  work.  Thus  the  reader  may  discover  that  we 
were  once  more  blessed  with  a  good,  share  of  society ; 
but  this  was  no  relief  to  our  ladies  in  a  temporal  point 
of  view,  as  the  household  labour  was  necessarily  very 
much  increased,  and  no  help  could  be  obtained.  Our 
ladies  considered  it  a  great  privilege,  however,  to  wait 
upon  company  at  all  times,  as  far  as  our  means  and 
strength  would  permit. 

We  have  also  had  a  very  pleasant  visit  with  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Clark  and  lady,  who  came  down  in  company  with 
Mr.  Kone. 

Mr.  Lee  and  myself  spoke  to  the  Indians,  or  as  many 
of  them  as  we  could  prevail  upon  to  assemble  for  that 
purpose,  who  appeared  to  give  some  attention  to  the 
word  delivered.  But  one  of  the  head  men  said,  when 
requested  to  attend  preaching,  that  he  understood  how 
to  steal,  and  that  was  enough  for  him  to  know. 

I  find  an  entry  in  my  journal  at  this  time  which  will 
enable  the  reader  to  enter  into  the  writer's  views  and 
feelings  when  he  recorded  the  same. 

"  You  probably  ask  me,  *  Watchman,  what  of  the 
night  ?'  All  is  dark.  The  wretchedness  of  the  heathen 
is  untold.  The  gospel  only  can  ameliorate  their  con- 
dition.    And  O !    how  dimcuh  to  communicate  one 


!•'     lil^i^ 


ri'l 


■#' 


306 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


truth  to  their  dark  understandings.  Yet  we  will  con- 
tinue to  try.  We  will  use  the  means  within  our  reach, 
and  leave  the  event  with  God,  in  whose  hand  are  the 
hearts  of  all  men  !" 

Mr.  Lee  and  lady  left  us  on  the  22d  of  June,  and 
Mr.  Whitcomb's  family  have  taken  up  their  residence 
in  Mr.  Tibits'  cabin  for  the  present. 

In  the  former  part  of  the  month  of  July  the  Pea- 
cock made  her  appearance  off  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
attended  by  the  Flying-fish,  a  small  schooner.  Mr. 
Kone  and  myself  manned  our  canoe  and  went  down  to 
the  bay  to  meet  her  and  welcome  our  countrymen  to 
our  wild  shore  and  rustic  home.  But  before  we  reached 
the  bay,  the  Peacock  struck  the  north  breakers  outside 
of  the  bar.  We  ascended  Cape  Disappointment,  from 
whence  we  discovered  that  she  was  in  a  very  dangerous 
situation  ;  but  as  we  could  render  her  no  aid,  we  re- 
turned to  our  homes  at  about  sunset.  The  next  day 
Kotata,  the  Indian  chief,  sent  word  to  me  that  the  ship 
had  lost  her  masts,  and  that  we  must  go  and  see  her. 
Upon  this  we  immediately  rigged  our  canoe,  and  we 
had  not  gone  far  upon  the  river  before  we  discovered 
that  it  was  even  so :  the  hulk  of  the  vessel  was  to  be 
seen  in  the  midst  of  the  breakers,  which  were  light  at 
this  time,  but  her  masts  had  entirely  gone  by  the  board. 
We  hastened  to  Baker's  Bay,  where  we  were  happy  to 
find  a  part  of  the  officers  and  crew,  who  had  come 
ashore  m  the  ship's  boats,  and  the  boats  had  returned  to 
the  wreck  for  the  commander,  and  the  remainder  of 
the  crew.  We  soon  became  acquainted  with  Mr. 
Speeden,  the  purser,  and  several  of  the  other  gentle- 
men. We  had  our  tent  pitched,  and  then  waited 
anxiously  for  the  return  of  the  boats,  and,  to  the  joy  of 
all,  they  at  length  returned,  bringing  every  soul  in  safely 
to  the  shore.  We  were  now  introduced  to  Lieutenant 
Hudson,  who  had  the  command  of  the  vessel,  a  gentle- 
man much  esteemed  by  his  crew,  and  of  whom  we  had 
subsequent  evidence  that  he  possessed  the  spirit,  and 
practised  the  principles  of  the  gospel  of  Christ.     It 


m 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


307 


would  have  been  a  great  pleasure  to  us  to  have  been 
so  situated,  that  we  might  have  afforded  them  comfort- 
able accommodations  when  they  reached  the  shore ; 
but  this  was  entirely  out  of  the  question.  Our  canoe, 
which  we  had  despatched  to  the  house  for  such  refresh- 
ments as  we  had  on  hand,  soon  returned,  and  Mr. 
Bimie  came  down  from  Astoria  with  two  tents  and  a 
good  supply  of  provisions,  so  that  we  managed  to  give 
the  officers  a  little  refreshment,  after  which  and  some 
very  agreeable  conversation  we  retired  to  rest :  the  cap- 
tain and  some  of  the  officers  took  up  lodgings  in  our 
tents,  and  some  under  small  arbours  made  of  the  bran- 
ches of  trees,  and  some  I  know  not  how ;  but  we  found 
ourselves  all  alive  in  the  morning,  and  in  tolerable 
health,  and  were  thankful  to  God  for  his  delivering  and 
preserving  mercy.  We  now  returned  home,  and  two 
of  the  gentlemen  of  the  scientific  corps  accompanied 
us.  The  officers  and  crew  soon  took  up  their  quarters 
at  Astoria,  and  commenced  surveying  the  river,  and 
making  scientific  observations  in  the  country.  While 
they  remained  in  the  country  we  were  favoured  with 
occasional  visits  from  the  officers  and  gentlemen,  which 
were  very  acceptable  and  gratifying  to  us.  And  Mr. 
Kone  and  myself  had  the  satisraction  of  preaching  to 
them  at  Astoria  on  the  sabbath,  after  the  reading  of  the 
morning  service  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church  by 
Lieut.  Hudson. 

Mr.  Smith  and  myself  had  for  some  time  contem- 
plated a  journey  to  the  Walamet  by  way  of  the  Kile- 
mook  country,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  number  of 
Indians  in  that  region,  their  character,  and  the  pros- 
pects of  operating  among  them ;  and  that  on  our  return 
we  might  drive  through  a  few  cattle  and  horses,  that 
we  might  have  some  milk  and  butter  and  beef  for  our 
family's  use,  and  sufficient  teams  for  the  purpose  of 
raising  provisions  for  our  own  consumption.  We  ac- 
cordingly set  out  on  this  tour,  being  accompanied  by 
a  sailor  boy  who  had  left  the  Wave,  and  an  Indian  as 
guide.    We  look  with  us  one  of  Mr.  Smith's  horses  to 


1 1' 


■A^- 


m 


^■ 


308 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


cany  our  provisions  and  tent.  We  accomplished  this 
difficult  journey,  much  of  which  had  never  before  been 
travelled  by  a  while  man,  in  fourteen  days.  We  passed 
down  the  coast  to  the  southward  for  seven  days,  and 
then  crossed  from  the  coast  to  the  Walamet  Mission  in 
seven  days  more.  Here  we  attended  to  our  business, 
obtained  a  few  cattle  and  horses,  and  recruited  our 
numbers  by  the  addition  of  two  men  and  one  Indian, 
and  set  out  to  retrace  our  steps  to  Clatsop.  This  we 
found  to  be  a  difficult  task ;  but  we  succeeded  in  ac- 
complishing it  in  fourteen  days.  So  that  after  an  absence 
of  thirty-six  days,  including  the  eight  days  we  spent  at 
Walamet,  we  reached  our  home  in  safely. 

It  had  been  reported  that  the  Kilemooks  were  a 
numerous  tribe  of  Indians,  but  they  are  like  the  most 
of  the  other  "numerous  tribes"  in  the  country,  very 
"few  and  far  between  ;"  these  were  so  much  so  that  we 
found,  after  passing  through  their  entire  country  and 
seeing  all  their  wigwams,  that  their  number  would  not 
exceed  two  hundred,  men,  women,  and  children.  Their 
character  was,  as  far  as  we  could  ascertain,  much  the 
same  in  its  general  features  as  that  of  their  neighbours 
at  the  north  of  them ;  and  their  country  was  perfectly 
in  keeping  with  the  character  of  the  inhabitants.  We 
saw  no  land,  worth  mentioning,  that  was  fit  for  cul- 
tivation, after  we  left  Cape  Lookout  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  Clatsop  Plain,  until  we  crossed  the 
mountains,  which  run  parallel  with  the  coast,  and 
reached  the  Walamet  Valley.  The  whole  coast,  as 
far  as  we  travelled  it,  is  made  up  of  high  rugged  capes, 
which  terminate  in  a  very  abrupt  manner  amidst  the 
foaming  billows  which  break  in  thunder  tones  upon  the 
shore.  We  were  obliged  to  cross  all  these  capes  but 
one  or  two,  and  then  ford  the  rivers,  which  take  their 
rise  in  the  wide  range  of  mountains  between  the  ocean 
and  the  Walamet,  and  empty  themselves  in  the  Pacific, 
except  some  of  them  where  we  found  Indians  who 
ferried  us  over  in  their  canoes.  These  valleys,  througli 
which  the  rivers  found  their  way,  appeared  to  be  but 


m 


I     ! 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


309 


little  more  than  suflSciently  wide  to  answer  the  purpose 
of  channels  through  which  the  accumulated  waters  of 
the  high  lands  were  to  find  their  way  to  their  source. 
And  none  of  these  rivers  appeared  to  be  navigable,  or 
at  least  no  vessels  could  enter  them  from  the  ocean,  as 
the  breakers  were  seen  to  roll  in  across  their  entire 
mouths  at  any  stage  of  the  tide. 

Having  accomplished  this  exceedingly  difficult  tour, 
and  having  obtained  the  information  for  which  we  had 
been  seeking,  and  the  means  in  the  use  of  which  we 
might  be  able  to  procure,  at  least,  a  part  of  our  future 
subsistence,  we  had  new  and  more  abundant  grounds 
for  thankfulness  to  our  heavenly  Father. 

The  month  of  October  now  returned,  and  it  became 
necessary  to  make  a  trip  to  the  Walamet  by  water,  for 
the  purpose  of  securing  a  store  of  provisions  for  the 
sustenance  of  our  families  during  the  rapidly-approach- 
ing rainy  winter.  Consequently  but  a  few  days  were 
spent  in  getting  a  little  wood,  and  in  attending  to  some 
other  little  household  affairs  for  tiie  comfort  of  the  fam- 
ily, and  then  I  set  out  again  in  our  canoe  with  a  gang 
01  Indians  for  the  Walamet  Mission. 

We  performed  this  trip  of  three  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  in  an  Indian  canoe,  besides  procuring  a  sufficient 
store  of  provisions  for  the  winter,  and  farming  utensils, 
with  which  to  commence  operations  on  the  plain  as 
soon  as  circumstances  would  permit,  in  twenty-one 
days.  The  provisions,  etc.,  we  brought  to  the  Wala- 
met Falls,  where  they  were  shipped  on  board  of  a  small 
schooner,  which  was  built  by  a  few  Americans,  during 
the  previous  summer,  in  the  Walamet  River,  with  the 
promise  that  the  goods  should  be  delivered  at  our  sta- 
tion at  Clatsop.  When  we  returned  I  found  my  family 
in  comfortable  health  ;  but  Mrs.  Kone's  health  had  been 
failing  since  their  return  from  Vancouver,  and  it  became 
evident  that  her  situation  was  such  as  to  require  a 
course  of  treatment  such  as  could  not  be  obtained  in 
this  country. 

The  Rev.  A.  B.  Smith  and  lady,  of  whom  mention 


1^; 


In      '  '  i| 


I  ,4. a 


r, 


310 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


has  already  been  made,  had  been  for  several  days  at 
our  place  on  a  visit,  and  were,  on  my  return,  still 
favouring  our  neighbourhood  with  their  presence.  Mr. 
S.  was  awaiting  an  opportunity  to  take  passage  for  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  hoping  to  nnd  employment  in  that 
very  interesting  missionary  field,  and  a  climate  better 
adapted  to  the  enfeebled  health  of  his  lady. 

In  November  Mr.  Smith,  my  old  neighbour,  removed 
to  the  plain,  where  he  has  no  neighbours  except  our 
cattle  and  horses.  In  view  of  the  unpromising  prospects 
among  the  natives,  and  the  continually  declining  state 
of  Mrs.  Kone's  health,  Mr.  Kone  made  application  to 
the  superintendent  of  the  mission  for  permission  to  re- 
turn to  the  States,  which  was  granted  ;  and  as  the  bark 
Columbia,  Captain  Humphreys,  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company,  was  ready  to  sail  for  Oahu,  one  of  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  Mr.  Kone  and  the  Rev.  A.  B.  Smith  and 
families  took  passage  on  board  of  her  :  so  that  on  the 
30th  of  November,  1841,  I  found  myself  and  family 
entirely  alone,  with  the  exception  of  a  sailor  boy  and 
an  Indian  girl  which  he  took  to  wife.  These  two  we 
now  employed  as  domestic  helps ;  and  in  addition  to 
these,  I  supported  an  Indian  and  his  family,  who  lived 
in  a  small  lodge  in  the  rear  of  my  house,  all  the  other 
Indian  neighbours  having  removed  to  their  winter  quar- 
ters at  the  south  end  of  the  plain.  Mr.  Whitcomb  and 
femily  had  also  returned  to  the  Walamet,  and  had  taken 
the  carpenter  with  them,  leaving  the  house  designed 
for  Mr.  Kone  partly  framed. 

The  rainy  season  had  fairly  set  in  on  the  1st  of  No- 
vember, and  the  rain  was  now  literally  pouring  down, 
being  accompanied  with  very  heavy  thunder  and  light- 
ning ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  it  was  a  rare 
circumstance  that  we  had  any  thunder  at  all,  save  at 
this  time  of  the  year,  which  was  the  early  part  of  the 
rainy  season.  -?r.«|5^  .    ^  ..  / 

And  now  that  the  reader  may  more  fully  enter  into 
the  writer's  views  and  feelings  at  that  time,  when  he 
had  the  best  opportunity  for  reflection  and  considera- 


of  No- 
down, 
1  light- 
a  rare 

isave  at 
of  the 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


311 


tion  with  respect  to  his  peculiar  work,  and  the  circum- 
stances of  the  heathen  among  whom  he  lived  and  la- 
boured, he  will  subjoin  some  extracts  from  his  journal, 
which  were  written  at  that  time. 

"  It  is  acknowledged  on  all  hands  that  the  present 
prospects  in  respect  to  civilizing  and  Christianizing 
these  natives  are  exceedingly  gloomy.  They  are  by 
a  great  majority  fewer  in  number  than  they  were  sup- 
posed to  be  ;  and  as  each  clan  has  a  peculiar  dialect  or 
tongue,  those  who  profess  to  be  the  best  judges  believe 
their  language  to  be  not  worth  reducing  with  the  de- 
sign of  printing  the  same,  and  of  making  it  the  medium 
of  communication.  I  am  inclined  to  favour  this  view 
of  the  subject.  And  the  prospect  of  teaching  them  the 
English  language  is  no  more  promising.  In  respect  to 
the  adults,  it  would  be  the  nearest  thing  to  an  impos- 
sibility. Their  habits  are  formed,  and  they  consider 
everything  that  has  the  appearance  of  work,  that  does 
not  yield  an  immediate  visible  profit,  as  slavery  :  hence 
it  is  disgraceful,  in  their  estimation,  to  labour.  And  as 
their  organs  of  speech  are  formed,  they  cannot  make 
our  English  sounds ;  for  instance,  I  never  met  with  an 
Indian  in  the  country  that  could  speak  my  name  (Frost) 
properly :  some  would  have  it  Mr.  Plost,  and  others 
Floost,  and  the  like ;  it  seemed  to  be  impossible  for 
them  to  sound /r.  And  then,  if  they  are  taken  when 
young,  the  prospect  is  but  little  better ;  for  after  they 
are  cleansed  from  filth  and  vermin,  and  clothed,  and 
fed,  and  taught  for  a  few  years,  those  of  them  that  do 
not  elope,  preferring  the  liberty  of  the  plains  and  moun- 
tains to  the  confinement,  restraint,  and  labour  of  a 
school,  suddenly  drop  into  the  grave  in  consequence  of 
the  most  deadly  and  loathsome  diseases  which  they  in- 
herit from  their  fathers  and  mothers.  So  that,  at  the 
time  the  writer  left  the  country,  there  were  more  Indi- 
an children  in  the  mission  grave-yard  at  the  Walamet, 
of  such  as  had  been  taken  by  the  missionaries  and 
treated  as  above  mentioned,  than  there  were  of  such  as 
were  alive  and  in  the  manual  labour  school. 


' 


'i'lJ 


D  I 

If. I 


:il 


1    ti 


312 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


"  Still  I  believe,  if  the  proper  means  cafi  be  brought 
lo  bear  upon  them,  at  least  some  of  these  forlorn  crea- 
tures may  be  benefited  both  for  time  and  eternity. 
And  will  not  the  Lord  and  the  church  sustain  those 
who  continue  in  the  field,  and  labour  to  accomplish  this 
best  of  objects  ? 

"  At  all  events  I  am  not  yet  satisfied  that  *the  Lord 
has  nothing  more  for  me  to  do  in  this  land  of  darkness.' 
When  I  am  fully  satisfied  of  this,  or  that,  in  conse- 
quence of  a  broken  constitution,  I  may  be  disqualified 
for  the  performance  of  the  work  assigned  me,  I  will 
ask  immediately  to  be  removed  to  another  field  of 
labour." 

We  were  now  completely  isolated  from  civilized  so- 
ciety, save  that,  of  our  own  household.  We  have  but 
two  white  neighbours,  and  they  are  seven  miles  from 
us — one  on  the  Clatsop  Plain,  and  the  other  at  Astoria, 
across  Young's  Bay ;  and  during  the  storms,  which  are 
now  almost  incessant,  this  bay  cannot  be  crossed  in  a 
canoe  without  endangering  life. 

"December  26th.     Since  the  1st  of  November  we 

have  had  but  very  few  days  without  rain,  and  to-day  it 

literally  pours  down.     I  have  thought  much  of  late  of 

the  privileges  of  my  brethren  in  my  native  lanJ.  and 

especially  of  my  brethren  in  the  ministry,  with  wnom  I 

have  travelled  and  laboured.     How  refreshing  it  would 

be  to  the  spirit  to  enjoy  an  interview  with  them  !     But 

the  same  Lord  who  guides  them  in  their  labours  of  love 

is  here,  and  the  same  Spirit  which  leads  them  into  the 

way  of  truth  and  peace  is  hovering  over  us  in  this  dreary 

region,  and  replenishes  our  hearts  with  daily  showers 

of  peace  and  mercy ;  and  if  it  is  the  will  of  the  Lord 

that  we  should  remain  here  during  the  term  of  our 

natural  lives,  we  hope  at  all  times  to  be  able  to  say, 

*  Thy  will  be  done  ;'  and  if  we  could  see  the  way  opened, 

and  spiritual  good  being  effected  among  these  wretched 

heathen  through  our  instrumentality,  that  we  would 

rather  be  here  in  this  lonely  situation,  surrounded  with 

dense  moral  darkness,  than  in  the  city  full,  where  all  the 


our 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


313 


comforts  and  conveniences  of  life  are  to  be  enjoyed  with 
relatives  and  friends.  And  will  not  God  extend  the 
hand  of  mercy  to  these  heathen  through  us  as  instru- 
ments ?  Or  are  they  destined  to  fade  away,  and  never 
be  benefited  by  the  gospel  of  peace  ?  It  certainly  ap- 
pears that  if  they  are  not  enlightened  soon,  they  never 
will  be ;  for  in  a  few  years  there  will  be  none  of  them 
left." 

"February  2d,  1842.  The  Indians  are  at  this  time 
coming  up  from  the  south  end  of  the  plain ;  and  although 
there  was  an  abundance  of  salmon  last  fall,  they  are 
now  entirely  destitute  of  food,  except  such  roots  as  they 
can  procure  from  day  to  day.  The  whale  which  usually 
drifts  ashore,  and  furnishes  them  with  food  which  they 
are  very  fond  of,  has  been  very  scarce  during  the  winter, 
as  but  a  part  of  one  came  ashore.  There  are  abun- 
dance of  elk  on  the  mountains,  but  they  are  too  lazy 
to  hunt  only  when  hunger  drives  them  to  it.  They 
have  of  late  manifested  a  disposition  to  steal  more  than 
formerly  ;  and  they  look  upon  a  white  man  as  a  being 
altogether  different  from  themselves,  and  all  they  expect 
by  his  being  among  them  is  temporal  benefit,  and  the 
man  that  benefits  them  most  in  this  way  has  the  *best 
heart:  " 

"I  am  quite  confident,  from  all  the  observations  which 
I  have  been  enabled  to  make  relative  to  their  moral  and 
physical  condition,  that  there  never  will  be  anything 
like  a  permanent  Christian  church  raised  up  from  among 
them."  "  Their  language  is  so  defective,  that  thereby 
it  is  impossible  to  acquaint  them  with  the  true  nature 
of  law ;  and  until  they  are  brought  to  feel  that  they  are 
condemned  in  consequence  of  having  transgressed  the 
law  of  God,  how  can  they  be  made  to  feel  the  need  of 
Christ,  who  *  hath  redeemed  us  from  the  curse  of  the 
law,  being  made  a  curse  for  us?'  Are  they  then  with- 
out law?  No,  'they  are  a  law  unto  themselves;'  and 
that  law  which  the  Spirit  hath  written  upon  their  hearts 
has  been  very  nearly  obliterated  by  a  persevering  con- 
tinuance in  the  practice  of  all  manner  of  vice  from 

14 


^ 

1 

1 

k 


■1;  ti'i 


M 


i:' 


I 


314 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


generation  to  generation.  Must  they  then  be  consicned 
over  to  irremediable  destniction?  We  will  leave  them 
where  we  found  them,  if  our  efforts  fail  to  ameliorate 
their  condition,  in  the  hands  of  a  merciful  God,  who 
can  have  compassion  upon  the  ignorant,  and  upon  those 
that  are  out  of  the  way." 

"  February  26th.  But  two  children  are  now  living 
out  of  ten  or  twelve  that  were  born,  to  our  knowledge, 
among  the  Indians  of  our  neighbourhood,  since  last 
November,  besides  a  number  which  were  destroyed 
by  their  mothers  in  the  earliest  dawn  of  infancy.  I 
saw  several  of  those  that  died  natural  deaths,  which 
were  perfect  masses  of  putrefaction  before  they  expired, 
in  consequence  of  disease  which  they  had  inherited 
from  their  parents."  We  could  relate  more  horrid 
scenes  than  these,  but  delicacy  forbids.  Tt  is  perfectly 
astonishing  to  see  with  what  composure  the  mothers 
will  relate  the  many  infanticides  they  have  been  guilty 
of  committing.  Mrs.  Frost  had  a  conversation  one  day 
with  an  Indian  woman  who  called  at  our  house  with 
her  little  son,  whom  we  used  to  clothe.  This  woman 
told  Mrs.  F.  that  she  had  destroyed  her  infants  pre- 
vious to  this ;  and  the  reason  why  this,  her  little  son 
then  present,  was  living,  was  the  fact  that  her  husband 
had  assured  her  that  if  she  destroyed  it  he  would  kill 
her.  And  when  asked  the  reason  why  she  destroyed  her 
infants,  she  said  that  as  they  had  become  very  poor,  and 
had  no  slaves,  the  drudgery  all  fell  upon  the  women ; 
and  if  they  had  many  children  they  were  prevented  from 
doing  their  work  ;  so  that  when  their  husbands  came 
home  weary  and  hungry,  and  found  no  fire  and  no  roots 
to  eat,  they  were  angry,  called  them  lazy,  and  beat  and 
otherwise  abused  them.  Therefore,  in  order  that  they 
might  relieve  themselves  of  much  trouble  and  care,  and 
escape  abuse  from  their  husbands,  which  made  their 
hearts  always  poor  and  sad,  they  destroyed  their  in- 
fants as  soon  as  they  entered  upon  the  stage  of  action  ! 

I  found  myself  at  this  time  labouring  under  a  severe 
attack  of  the  bronchitis,  so  that  it  was  quite  difficult 


TEN  YEARS  IN   OREGON. 


315 


3  woman 


to  attend  to  our  family  devotions.  This  disease  had 
been  increasing  in  virulence  since  the  commencement 
of  the  rainy  season. 

"  March  5th.  Visited  Mr.  Smith  upon  the  Plain,  and 
found  him  very  much  discouraged.  Surely  he  has  dif- 
ficulties to  pass  through  of  which  those  in  the  civilized 
world  know  nothing.  0!  1  ow  do  those  undervalue 
their  privileges  who  are  blessed  with  all  the  sweets  of 
society,  and  all  the  privileges  of  a  Christian  community !" 

March  14.  Up  to  this  time  the  rain  had  continued  to 
descend  as  if  the  windows  of  heaven  had  been  opened. 
I  visited  the  Indian  lodges,  and  talked  to  them  about 
their  hearts,  and  God,  and  the  Bible ;  but  they  were 
exceedingly  hungry,  and  wanted  something  to  eat.  I 
told  them  to  come  to  my  house,  and  they  should  have 
something.  They  soon  followed  me,  and  I  divided  a 
tierce  of  salmon,  which  I  had  purchased  from  them  the 
previous  summer,  and  salted  for  the  use  of  my  family, 
and  gave  each  family  from  three  to  five.  This,  in  ad- 
dition to  having  fed  several  of  them  every  day  since  the 
1st  of  February,  they  said  made  their  hearts  very  good, 
and  caused  them  to  like  my  talk  very  much ;  and  they 
assured  me  that  when  the  salmon  came  again  we  should 
not  want. 

A  snow  storm  now  ensued,  and  it  became  difficult 
for  my  sailor  boy  to  get  fuel  enough  to  keep  the  room 
warm.  So  I  called  upon  my  Indian  neighbour,  Tawint, 
whose  family  I  had  nearly  supported  through  the  win- 
ter, and  told  him  if  he  would  help  my  boy  get  up  some 
wood,  he  and  his  family  should  have  an  abundance  of 
food  every  day  until  salmon  came,  notwithstanding  his 
neighbours  were  near  starving.  To  this  proposition  he 
assented  with  apparent  good  will,  and  helped  some  for 
the  first  and  second  days ;  but  the  third  day  my  boy 
came  in  and  told  me  that  Tawint  was  lying  on  his  back 
by  his  fire,  and  said  that  I  was  making  a  slave  of  him; 
for,  said  he,  "  other  people  get  horses  and  blankets  for 
working,  but  I  get  nothing  but  something  to  eat."  I 
stepped  into  his  lodge  and  scolded  him  for  his  ingrati- 


iC 


t'l 


71:  (  )■ 


ii 


316 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


tude,  and  asked  him  if  we  were  not  rather  the  slaves  ? 
I  had  furnished  him  with  the  boards  that  had  made  a 
comfortable  roof  over  their  heads  during  the  winter ; 
and  Mrs.  F.  had  carried  them  food  from  our  table  every 
day.  "  O  !"  said  he,  "  what  of  the  boards  ?  What 
do  I  do  with  them  1  They  simply  lie  up  there !"  I 
then  promised  him  that  if  he  would  not  work  he  might 
starve ;  but  my  family  would  not  see  them  suffer :  so 
Mr.  Tawint  managed  to  get  something  to  eat  without 
becoming  a  slave.  Besides  being  pestered  for  food,  I 
am  almost  daily  called  upon  by  some  of  them  for  medi- 
cine, which  I  am  not  forward  to  deal  out ;  for  they  are 
so  extremely  superstitious,  that  if  one  of  them  should 
die  after  taking  medicine,  they  wouM  be  almost  sure  to 
attribute  the  death  to  those  who  gave  the  medicine,  if 
they  did  not  want  to  be  paid  for  taking  it  if  it  cured 
them :  as  did  an  old  Chenook  squaw  who  went  to  Mr. 
Bimie  with  the  fever  and  ague,  and  begged  for  some 
medicine.  Her  request  was  granted ;  and  after  she 
recovered  from  her  sickness,  she  went  to  Mr.  B.  again, 
and  said,  "  Seeing  I  have  taken  a  great  deal  of  your 
bad  medicine,  perhaps  you  will  now  give  me  some  tea, 
and  sugar,  and  something  good  to  eat  ?"  Of  course  the 
old  lady's  suit  was  not  rejected,  as  my  friend  Birnie 
was  a  most  liberal  soul. 

On  the  2d  of  April  I  received  a  letter  from  the  su- 
perintendent, which  brought  the  sad  intelligence  of  the 
death  of  his  excellent  wife,  the  particulars  of  which 
have  already  been  given.  I  received  a  letter  also  from 
Mr.  Kone  by  an  American  vessel,  by  which  I  learned 
that  he  expected  to  sail  for  the  United  States  the  1st  of 
this  month.  This  vessel  came  for  the  purpose  of  trade. 
I  boarded  her  in  Baker's  Bay,  where  I  met  with  Mr. 
Birnie,  who  had  reached  the  vessel  before  me  ;  and  as 
a  part  of  the  cargo  was  ardent  spirits,  we  obtained  a 
pledge  from  the  captain  and  his  first  mate  to  the  effect 
that  no  liquor  should  be  sold  or  given  to  the  natives,  in 
view  of  the  f.ict  that  if  they  should  become  intoxicated, 
bloodshed  and  murder  would  ensue  ;  and  in  view  of 


/' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


f^: 


317 


this  pledge  he  was  furnished  with  a  house  in  iiFprimme- 
diate  neighbourhood,  in  which  to  trade  witl\  l^e  In- 
dians for  salmon.  During  the  day  the  vessel  «ime  to 
anchor  Jn  the  river  opposite  to  my  house.  Some  bar- 
rels and  goods  were  landed,  and  a  man  left  to  trade. 
My  sailor  boy  entered  on  board  of  this  vessel,  and  left 
his  Indian  wife  with  us,  who  by  this  time  had  become 
quite  a  help  to  Mrs.  Frost. 

On  the  10th,  another  American  vessel  crossed  the 
bar,  which  proved  to  be  the  brig  Chenamus,  Captain 
Couch,  from  Newbtiryport,  Mass.  On  the  22d  of 
April  I  received  a  letter  from  home,  which  brought  us 
the  first  intelligence  from  my  father's  family  since  we 
bid  them  adieu  in  the  autumn  of  1839;  and  this  letter 
infoWWil'us  that  one  of  my  brothers,  whom  I  left  in 
hoalth,  i|ad  been  called  to  leave  his  wife  and  little  chil- 
6wDi  add  appear  before  his  gracious  Judge.  And 
about  (|iis  time  I  received  several  letters  frpin  my  old 
frijia^in  the  States.  These  were  to  us  like  cold  water 
tiiiin'sty  soul. 

^^By  28th.  Crime  of  every  kind  prevails  >  among 
tflBreathen.  This,  however,  is  not  ko  >surprising,  as 
they  have  no  knowledge  of  God  or  of  hid^ws,  com- 
paratively speaking.  But  what  shall  v\^siHf  of  those 
who  come  here  from  the  Civilized  world^rwho  Were 
probably  born  of  Christian  parents,  and  as  soH|aS'they 
set  their  feet  upon  this  dark  shore,  they  iieiiovn^  in  til 
the  abominations  of  the  heathen  !  And,  wWlfe  we  are 
endeavouring  to  teach  tke  heathen  the  twv  of  God,  how 
it  mortifies  us  and  puts  us  to  the  blush,  When  men,  our 
own  countrymen,  coming  even  fron^  4he  fland  of  our 
"  pilgrim  fathers,"  tell  the  IndianHthat'^there  is  no 
God,"  and' that  "all  the  missionaries  t«ll  them  about 
such  things  are  lies ;"  and  then  commit  such  acts  of 
licentiousness  as  to  cause  the  Iitdians  to  say,  "  Hias 
nesika  shame,"  that  is.  We  are  great  ashamed.  And, 
after  talking  of  such  acts,  they  have  often  said  to  me, 
"  Hias  peshock  mika  tilacum  shieks,"  that  is.  Your 
people  are  very  bad,  friend.    Well,  who  could  deny  it, 


.'■''n 


w 


w 


m 


n 


t 


I 


m 


■m 


318 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


if  these  were  fair  samples  of  our  nation  ?  Let  it  not 
be  inferred  from  this  statement  of  facts,  that  a  similar 
course  of  conduct  characterized  all  that  came  to  this 
coast,  for  there  were  a  number  of  gentlemen  who  came 
to  this  region  both  by  land  and  sea,  whose  conduct  gave 
evidence  to  all,  and  the  Indians  even  were  satisfied,  that 
they  were  actuated  by  different  principles.  These 
gentlemen  we  used  to  point  out  to  the  Indians  as  ex- 
amples of  such  as  were  guided  by  the  principles  laid 
down  in  the  book  of  God,  and  the  others  as  those  who 
had  rejected  that  book,  because  they  hated  its  Author, 
and  the  course  of  righteousness  which  he  required  all 
men  to  pursue.  I  am  aware  that  such  guilty  wretches 
have  threatened  to  pour  out  their  fury  upon  those  mis- 
sionaries who  have,  in  their  communications  with  the 
civilized  world,  made  mention  of  the  iniquitous  course 
pursued  by  such  creatures  as  soon  as  they  considered 
themselves  beyond  the  reach  of  civil  power,  and  the 
restraints  of  civilized  society. 

One  of  these  fellows  told  me,  when  I  fbuuid  it 
necessary  to  reprove  him  because  of  his  brutal  cMj|ii:t 
among  the  heathen  of  my  immediate  neighboumRd, 
that  "  old  Jason  Lee,"  as  be  expressed  himself,  had, 
in  some  of  his  communications  to  the  States,  spoken 
of  the  disgraceful  conduct  of  some  American  seamen 
while  in  this  river  at  a  certain  time  ;  and  as  he  was  an 
American  seaman,  and  had  been  in  the  river  before,  he 
was  determined  to  have  revenge  on  Lee.  This  threat 
he  uttered  while  his  countenance  gave  evidence  of  the 
fiendish  spirit  that  reigned  within  his  heart.  He  was 
informed  that  we  were  not  to  be  intimidated  by  the 
threats  of  the  wicked,  and  that  he  and  his  associates  in 
crime  might  rest  assured,  that,  whether  Mr.  Lee  had 
exposed  them  or  not,  such  conduct  must  come  to  the 
light.  He  was  then  exhorted  to  turn  his  attention  to 
that  Bible  which  bad  been  presented  to  him  by  a  mis- 
sionary, and  make  his  peace  with  that  God  who  would 
shortly  bring  every  secret  thing  into  judgment.  But  as 
he  offered  an  Indian  five  blankets,  a  few  weeks  after 


thil 

lh( 

a 

stil 

cal 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


319 


Let  it  not 
t  a  similar 
ne  to  this 
who  came 
duct  gave 
sfied,  that 
'.    These 
ns  as  ex- 
iples  laid 
hose  who 
8  Author, 
luired  all 
wretches 
>ose  mis- 
with  the 
s  course 
nsidered 
and  the 

foimd  it 

Jf,  had, 
spoken 
seamen 
was  an 
■ore,  he 
I  threat 
of  the 
e  was 
3y  the 
ites  in 
Je  had 
to  the 
ion  to 
t  mis- 
vould 
tut  as 
after 


!iili 


this,  to  shoot  Mr.  Lee,  while  he  (Mr.  Lee)  was  making 
the  writer  a  visit,  and  also  talked  of  shooting  the  writer 
a  few  months  afterward,  it  remained  evident  that  he 
still  meditated  revenge,  or  rather  that  he  was  still  led 
captive  by  the  devil  at  his  will. 

In  view  of  many  peculiar  circumstances  which  have 
transpired  under  the  writer's  immediate  observation,  two 
facts  have  pressed  very  heavily  upon  his  mind,  namely, 
the  evangelization  of  the  heathen  world  will  be  very 
much  retarded,  and  the  moral  character  of  the  heathen 
will  be  very  much  lowered,  in  consequence  of  the  un- 
hallowed influence  exerted  upon  them  by  such  as  enter 
those  regions  from  the  civilized  world,  and  refuse  to  be 
controlled  and  guided  by  the  word  of  God.  And  that 
the  laws  of  civilization^  such  as  are  founded  upon  the 
word  of  God,  and  Christianity  must  go  hand  in  hand. 
God  has  ordained  the  one  as  well  as  the  other,  and  if 
you  will  show  me  a  country  where  civil  law,  of  the 
above  character,  is  not  enforced,  I  will  show  you  a 
country  where  the  gospel  makes  but  little  if  any  pro- 
gress. 

I  am  aware  that  it  has  been  very  confidently  asserted 
that  if  the  heathen  could  be  once  converted,  then  civi- 
lization and  domestic  economy  would  follow  among 
them  as  a  matter  of  course ;  and  the  writer  was  once 
of  the  same  opinion  :  but  actual  observation  with  re- 
spect to  these  particulars  has  caused  him  to  change  his 
mind ;  and  he  now  fully  believes,  that  he,  whom  God 
has  ordaired  to  be  a  terror  to  evil  doers,  as  well  as  a 
praise  to  them  that  do  well,  must  accompany  the  minis- 
ter of  reconciliation,  in  order  that  the  work  of  tlie  puri- 
fication of  the  moral  world  be  carried  forward  with 
success,  in  the  use  of  such  other  means  as  are  now  in 
the  hands  of  the  church.  And  the  writer  will  venture 
to  state  further,  that  the  Christian  church  will  never 
prosper  among  a  people  who  are  in  a  state  of  perfect 
anarchy. 

From  the  above  observations  the  reader  cannot  infer 
that  the  writer  would  favour  the  union  of  church  and 


■'■I 


m 


ii" 


r 

I" 
h 


!"l 


'^) 


m. 


* 


320 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


State;  but  rather  that  the  church  as  a  body,  and  all 
those  who  are  without  her  pale,  should  be  equally 
under  the  restriction  of  wholesome  civil  laws,  founded 
upon  proper  principles. 

And  in  view  of  what  has  just  been  stated  with  refer- 
ence to  the  evil  and  destructive  influence  which  is  being 
exerted  in  heathen  lands  by  the  vast  numbers  of  decided 
opposers  of  God  and  religion,  who  enter  the  dark  por- 
tions of  our  earth  from  year  to  year,  and  from  almost 
every  point  of  the  compass,  should  not  the  church  re- 
double her  exertions  to  Christianize  the  civilized  por- 
tions of  the  world  1  Then  when  this  is  accomplished,  our 
landsmen  and  seamen,  when  entering  the  heathen  world, 
would  hail  the  missionary  as  their  brother  and  friend, 
and  would  hold  up  his  hands,  and  cheer  him  on  in  his 
self-denying  labours ;  nay,  they  would  then  be  mission- 
aries themselves,  and  would  lay  side  and  shoulder  to 
the  gospel  chariot  wheel,  and  the  tide  of  mercy  would, 
through  such  combined  efforts,  soon  deluge  the  whole 
earth ;  and  He,  whose  right  it  is  to  reign,  would  soon 
sway  his  sceptre  over  the  whole  moral  world ;  and 
eveiT  knee  would  be  seen  to  bow,  and  every  tongue 
would  be  heard  to  confess  that  Jesus  is  Lord,  to  the 
glory  of  God  the  Father. 

But  those  who  are  ready  to  chant  the  glories  of  their 
imaginary  millennial  morn,  and  others  who  are  anxiously 
waiting  to  join  the  grand  choir  that  shall  attend  the 
Messiah  at  his  second  advent,  may  as  well  hang  their 
harps  upon  the  willows,  so  long  as  the  devil  sends  ten 
of  his  missionaries  to  the  heathen  world,  while  the 
church  sends  but  one  in  the  name  of  the  Lord.  And 
this  state  of  things  will  never  be  materially  changed,  so 
long  as  the  majority  of  the  wandering  landsmen  and 
seamen  who  go  forth  from  the  bosom  of  civilized  society 
are  led  captive  by  the  devil  at  his  will. 

And  now,  in  the  further  consideration  of  these  over- 
whelming facts,  what  course  shall  the  ministers  of  the 
Protestant  church  pursue?  Shall  they  spend  their  re- 
maining mental  and  physical  strength  in  lashing  each 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


321 


other,  because  of  a  few  unimportant,  not  to  say  unmean- 
ing, tenets  which  the  different  branches  of  the  vast 
family  adhere  to  ?  which  great  family  is  in  possession 
alone,  as  an  instrument  in  the  hands  of  the  great  Head 
of  the  church,  of  that  poiver,  in  the  proper  employment 
of  which  in  a  united  capacity,  the  glorious  day  might 
soon  be  ushered  in,  when  that  portion  of  our  earth 
which  is  now  civilized  would  be  universally  subjugated 
to  the  reign  of  the  Prince  of  peace  ;  and  when  from  this 
renovated  portion  of  our  globe  such  an  influence  would 
burst  forth,  like  the  flames  from  Nebuchadnezzar's  fur- 
nace, and  spread  over  and  penetrate  the  habitations  of 
cruelty,  that  the  south  would  soon  give  up  and  the 
north  would  not  hold  back ;  and  where  now  is  heard 
naught  but  the  wail  of  wo,  songs  of  praise  and  holy 
triumph  would  be  the  burden  of  every  breeze,  and  the 
echo  of  every  hill  and  dale. 

O  when  shall  it  once  be  when  the  watchmen  on  the 
walls  of  Zion  shall  see  eye  to  eye,  and  when  all  God's 
people  shall  unite  heart  and  hand,  in  carrying  forward 
the  victories  of  the  cross  ?  May  the  Lord  hasten  it  in 
his  own  good  time  ! 

"  June  16.  I  have  just  received  intelligence  that  the 
Indians  about  two  miles  from  me  have  this  morning 
buried  another  of  their  men  alive."  I  afterward  talked 
to  them  on  the  subject,  when  they  acknowledged  the 
fact,  but  said  that  he  was  "  cultis  mischemus,"  that  is, 
nothing  but  a  slave !  And  when  asked  whether  a  slave 
was  a  horse  or  an  elk,  that  caused  them  to  treat  him 
like  a  dumb  beast  and  not  like  a  man  ?  they  answered, 
**Wake  shicks,  cultus  ehaty,"  that  is,  No,  friend,  nothing 
but  a  slave.  But  then  their  slaves  are  not  alone  treated 
in  this  manner,  for  when  another  instance  of  this  kind, 
which  I  have  mentioned,  took  place,  it  was  a  man  that 
shared  the  same  fate. 

On  the  17th  of  June  the  Rev.  J.  Lee,  the  superin- 
tendent of  the  mission,  and  Mr.  Abemethy  and  Parrisb, 
and  families,  made  me  a  visit.  Their  arrival  was  hailed 
with  much  joy  on  our  part,  as  Mrs.  F.  had  not  been 

14* 


1^1 


iy.' 


><!■■ 


322 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


favoured  with  the  society  of  one  of  our  ladies  for  better 
than  seven  months. 

The  American  captain  who  had  obtained  a  house 
near  me  for  the  purpose  of  trading  salmon,  sent  down 
some  ardent  spirits  by  a  worthless  creature  from  the 
StateSf  on  the  day  that  all  our  friends  left  us  except 
Mrs.  Abernethy  and  her  two  little  children.  A  part 
of  this  liquor  was  dealt  out  among  the  natives,  notwith- 
standing the  pledge  of  the  captain  and  his  mate  to  the 
contrary ;  and  the  consequence  was  an  excitement  of 
the  blood-thirsty  spirit  in  the  breast  of  the  savages 
around  us ;  and  before  night  one  Indian  was  shot  through 
with  a  musket  ball,  so  that  he  expired  within  two  days 
afterward  ;  and  another  was  stabbed  in  five  places  with 
a  knife  ;  and  one  woman  was  shot  through  the  mouth, 
cutting  away  part  of  her  tongue  ;  and  two  other  women 
were  wounded,  one  in  the  shoulder,  and  the  other  in 
the  back  of  the  head, — the  wounds  of  these  four  did 
not  prove  mortal.  Bu  I  ask  who  will  be  responsible, 
at  least  in  a  great  degree,  for  the  blood  that  was  shed 
through  the  influence  of  that  alcoholic  draught  ?  Surely 
the  account  of  the  vender  of  ardent  spirits  will  be  a 
dark  one,  and  the  succeeding  results  will  be  soul- 
appalling,  unless  he  averts  the  blow  by  timely  repentance 
and  a  hearty  turning  to  the  Lord.  O  my  soul,  come 
not  thou  into  his  secret ! 

The  above  transaction  caused  a  dreg  of  bitterness  to 
enter  into  our  cup  of  joy,  and  our  tears  to  flow  afresh 
over  the  wickedness  of  those  who  had  had  their  lives 
given  them  in  a  land  of  Bibles  and  prayers. 

On  the  15th  of  July  Mr.  Abernethy  returned  from 
the  Walamet ;  and  on  llie  26lh  Mr.  Raymond  and  his 
family  came  down,  having  been  appointed  by  the  su- 
^  perintendent  to  take  charge  of  the  farming  operations  on 
the  Clatsop  Plain  ;  and  on  the  27th  Mr.  Abernethy  and 
family  left  us  for  their  place  of  labour  at  the  Walamet. 

It  was  now  probable  that  we  should  no  more  be  left 
entirely  alone  while  we  should  continue  in  the  country ; 
but  much  must  be  done  before  we  could  be  comfortably 


^. 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


323 


housed  upon  the  plain,  where  we  hoped  to  be  able  to 
raise  the  most  of  our  provisions  after  the  next  spring. 
The  store  that  I  had  lain  in  during  the  preceding  au- 
tumn had  not,  in  consequence  of  the  departure  of  Mr. 
Kone's  family,  become  wholly  exhausted ;  so  that,  with 
the  supply  that  Mr.  Raymond  had  under  way,  we 
hoped  to  be  comfortable  until  next  spring. 

And  according  to  the  directions  of  the  superintendent 
we  set  to  work  immediately  to  prepare  a  house  for  the 
accommodation  of  our  two  families  upon  the  plain. 
We  in  the  first  place  took  down  some  boards  to  the 
plain,  which  was  done  with  comparative  ease,  as  we 
had  now  a  horse  and  cart.  With  these  boards  we 
finished  out  the  floors  in  our  original  cabin  ;  and  then 
Mr.  R.'s  family  took  possession  of  the  same.  Then 
Mr.  Raymond  and  Smith  removed  the  lumber  to  the 
plain  which  had  been  partly  framed  for  a  house  for  Mr. 
Kone  previous  to  his  departure  from  the  country.  I 
was  able  to  render  them  some  assistance,  but  as  my 
constitution  had  been  well  nigh  broken,  I  was  not  able 
to  work  as  formerly.  After  this  lumber  was  removed 
it  was  decided  my  family  should  also  remove  to  the 
plain,  in  order  that  we  might  be  on  the  spot  to  assist 
when  our  promised  carpenter  should  come  from  the 
Walamet  to  put  up  our  house.  This  removal  was 
effected  on  the  18th  of  August;  and  we  commenced 
making  shingles  for  our  covering  during  the  next  rainy 
season. 

On  the  1st  of  September  we  were  highly  gratified 
with  a  visit  from  my  old  and  tried  friend,  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Richmond,  and  Mr.  Whilcomb,  whose  families  were  on 
board  of  the  Chenamas,  which  was  lying  at  Astoria, 
and  on  board  of  which  they  had  taken  passage  to  the 
United  States.  The  doctor  had  become  satisfied  that 
the  prospects  of  usefulness  among  the  Indians  would 
not  warrant  his  longer  continuance  in  the  country. 
This  I  am  fully  convinced  was  the  true  state  of  the 
case  :  and,  besides  this,  he  had  suffered  much  in  con- 
sequence of  family  affliction.    I  should  be  very  happy 


.'  \] 


''"1.1 


I- 


^  i 


324 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


m 


to  have  recourse  to  his  journal,  so  that  I  might  have 
the  pleasure  of  laying  before  our  readers  some  of  the 
scenes  through  which  he  passed  while  at  Nasqually, 
where  I  left  him,  just  taking  possession  of  the  post 
assigned  him,  in  the  summer  of  1840 ;  but  this  privilege 
is  denied  me  in  consequence  of  the  distance  which  now 
separates  us.  Mr.  Wliitcomb's  constitution  was  entirely 
broken  down,  so  that  it  was  a  matter  of  doubt  whether 
he  would  live  to  reach  home.  By  the  last-named  gen- 
tleman we  learned  that  it  was  almost  certain  that  we 
should  get  no  carpenter  from  the  Walamet  to  assist  us 
about  building,  although  there  were  but  two  months 
between  that  time  and  the  rainy  season. 

This  intelligence  was  altogether  unexpected,  as  we 
had  been  expecting  help  every  day ;  but  if  we  were  to 
have  no  help  from  a  mechanic,  there  was  certainly  no 
time  to  be  lost,  or  suffered  to  pass  unimproved.  So 
we  set  to  work  with  what  tools  we  had  in  possession, 
and  with  what  help  we  could  obtain  from  our  neigh- 
bours ;  and  their  number  had  been  increased,  for  Mr. 
Tibits  had  returned  from  California,  where  he  had  been 
on  a  tour  with  a  party  of  the  exploring  expedition,  who 
had  gone  across  the  land  to  that  country.  And  Mr.  T. 
brought  a  young  man  with  him,  by  the  name  of  Peter 
Brainard,  who  had  assisted  him  in  driving  some  cattle 
through  from  California  to  the  Walamet,  and  from 
thence  to  the  Clatsop  Plain.  And  although  none  of  us 
understood  house  building,  yet  by  perseverance  and 
hard  labour  we  succeeded  in  getting  our  frame  up,  and 
our  room  finished  off  in  a  style  peculiar  to  ourselves, 
and  the  size  of  fifteen  feet  by  seventeen,  so  that  I 
moved  into  it  on  the  6th  of  October. 

I  should  have  stated  that  the  Rev.  D.  Leslie  and 
his  two  daughters,  and  Dr.  Baily  with  his  family, 
had  also  taken  passage  on  board  of  the  Chenamas, 
which  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  a  few  days 
after  the  above  visit  from  Messrs.  Richmond  and 
Whitcomb. 

On  the  1 0th  I  received  a  letter  from  my  brother  who 


# 


'^ 


V 

T 


^i<ML 


TEN  YEARS   IN   OREGON. 


325 


resides  in  Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  which  came  across  the  moun- 
tains in  the  care  of  Dr.  E.  White.  By  this  we  learned 
that  our  parents  were  living,  and  that  the  family  was  in 
usual  health. 

My  own  health  had  now  become  so  much  impaired 
that  I  was  obliged  to  desist  entirely  from  labour ;  the 
bronchitis,  with  which  I  had  been  afflicted  for  the  past 
year,  became  much  more  severe,  and  I  found  my  spine 
and  liver  to  be  much  affected,  so  that  there  was  con- 
tinual pain  in  my  side  and  back,  and  my  nervous  sys- 
tem became  entirely  deranged. 

Mr.  Raymond  succeeded  in  finishing  a  room  the 
size  of  the  one  I  occupied,  and  took  possession  of  it,  so 
that  we  were  able  to  keep  ourselves  dry  and  tolerably 
warm. 

I  preached  in  English  to  those  who  could  understand 
me  for  a  few  sabbaths,  but  was  obliged  to  desist. 

December  now  arrived ;  but  this  rainy  season  so 
far  was  much  milder  than  the  preceding,  as  we  were 
favoured  with  many  sunny  days,  which  were  very 
pleasant.  My  throat  now  became  so  bad,  and  the  pain 
in  my  side  increased  to  that  degree  that  I  determined 
to  go  in  pursuit  of  medical  aid.  I  left  home  with  my 
family  on  the  11  th  of  December,  and  crossed  over  to 
Astoria  and  spent  the  night  with  Mr.  Birnie's  f-^mily. 
Hero  I  left  my  family,  and  set  out  with  my  canoe  for 
Vancouver,  and  on  the  following  day  as  we  were  as- 
cending the  river,  having  Mount  St.  Helen  in  full  view, 
we  discovered  a  vast  column  of  smoke  ascending  from 
the  north-west  side  of  the  mount  near  its  top,  which 
proved  to  be  a  volcanic  eruption,  which  has  been  men- 
tioned already  by  my  worthy  associate.  I  asked  my 
Indians,  What  is  that  ?  They  looked  toward  the  moun- 
tain, and  replied,  "  What  is  that  ?"  I  said.  Perhaps  it 
is  fire  ?  They  answered,  "  Perhaps  it  is  fire."  Seeing 
that  I  was  not  likely  to  make  much  headway  by  rea- 
soning with  them  after  this  sort,  I  inquired  if  they  had 
ever  seen  anything  like  it  before  ?  They  said  they 
had  not ;  "  but  they  had  heard  their  old  people  say, 


1^^ 


i'M\ 


i 


,  t 


H  ■■(. 

'I', 

h 


326 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


that  from  the  top  of  another  mountain,"  which  they  call 
"  Swalalahhost,  which  is  situated  to  the  south-east  of 
Young's  Bay,  "where  the  thunder  used  to  dwell,"  a 
like  smoke  used  to  issue  forth.  Upon  the  last-named 
mount  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  the  exploring  expedition 
found  evidences  of  a  former  volcanic  eruption.  And 
the  noise  produced  by  that  eruption,  no  doubt,  caused 
the  Indians  to  suppose  that  the  thunder  had  taken  up 
its  residence  there. 

Near  the  evening  of  the  second  day  after  I  left 
Astoria,  having  reached  the  Cawalitze  River,  we  found 
the  Columbia  entirely  frozen  over.  This  entirely 
blasted  all  my  hopes  of  being  relieved  from  my  tem- 
poral diflficulties  for  the  present,  as  our  way  to  Van- 
couver was  effectually  hedged  up.  So  I  ordered  my 
crew  to  "  'bout  ship,"  and  steer  for  Astoria.  And  it 
was  high  time  we  did  so,  for  the  ice  was  closing  in  so 
rapidly  below  us  that  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we 
forced  our  way  through  the  sheets,  which  cut  our 
canoe  considerably ;  but  we  got  all  clear,  and  in  the 
course  of  two  hours  we  reached  a  fine  camping  place, 
where  the  Indians  soon  built  a  rousing  fire  of  dry  logs, 
pitched  my  tent,  and  cooked  an  abundant  supply 
of  salt  salmon  and  potatoes,  and  large  cakes  of  breaJ, 
made  of  flour  unbolted,  and  baked  upon  a  piece  of  bark, 
or  a  stone,  or  anything  that  came  first  to  hand,  which 
they  set  up  before  the  fire,  and  some  cakes  they  baked 
under  the  ashes.  After  selecting  the  nicest  one  for  me, 
and  filling  my  dish  with  the  choice  part  of  the  salmon 
and  some  potatoes,  and  steeping  me  a  cup  of  tea,  we 
all  set  down  to  supper,  and  after  doing  the  provided 
meal  ample  justice,  my  excellent  crew  stretched  them- 
selves around  the  fire  and  assured  each  other  that  no 
crew  of  Indians  had  ever  had  a  better  prospect  of  a 
finer  night's  rest  than  they  had ;  and  partaking  of  the 
same  spirit,  I  committed  myself  to  the  protection  of 
Heaven,  and  soon  fell  asleep. 

At  this  time  there  were  two  canoes  owned  by  two 
French  settlers  from  the  Cawalitze,  who  were  going  to 


e; 


■^ 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


327 


Vancouver  with  cargoes  of  wheat  to  be  ground  for  the 
use  of  their  famiUes  :  they  had  ascended  the  Columbia 
about  one  mile  above  where  we  turned  back,  and  were 
lying  in  the  mouth  of  a  little  creek,  where  they  were 
awaiting  the  removal  of  the  ice.  When  the  ice  broke 
up  they  set  out  again,  but  had  not  proceeded  far  when 
one  of  the  canoes  was  forced,  by  the  floating  ice,  into 
the  current,  where  it  was  broken  to  pieces,  and  the 
poor  Canadian,  who  was  labouring  for  the  support  of 
nis  family,  was  snatched  from  them  in  a  moment  by 
being  drowned.  If  my  memory  serves  me,  the  rest  of 
the  crew  were  saved  after  being  badly  frozen.  The  next 
day  we  reached  Astoria,  and  although  my  health  was 
not  improved,  we  were  thankful  that  I  was  not  closed 
in  with  the  ice,  as  were  the  poor  Frenchmen.  A  storm 
now  ensued,  and  we  were  kept  at  Astoria  for  several 
days,  enjoying  the  hospitality  of  Mr.  Birnie's  family. 
Tne  storm  abated,  and  v,'e  arrived  at  our  home  on  the 
21st. 

"On  the  1st  of  January,  1843,  I  administered  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  supper  to  those  present  who 
professed  to  be  th.^  disciples  of  our  Lord  and  Saviour 
Jesus  Christ.  Tiie  communicants  consisted  of  Mr. 
Solomon  H.  Smith,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Raymond,  and  Mrs. 
Frost.  May  we  all  surround  our  Fatner's  table  in  his 
kingdom  above." 

On  the  3d  a  man  by  the  name  of  Cooper  arrived 
from  the  Walamet,  bringing  the  intelligence  of  the  death 
of  the  Rev.  James  Olley,  one  of  the  mission  family  that 
left  New- York  in  1 839  for  Oregon.  Brother  Olley  was 
beloved  by  all  who  knew  him,  and  particularly  so  by 
the  writer,  who  was  very  intimate  with  him  during  his 
voyage  from  New- York  to  Oregon,  and  believed  him 
to  be  a  worthy  Christian.  He  was  called  to  his  reward 
by  being  drowned  in  the  Walamet  River  on  the  11th 
of  December,  1842;  and  left  a  very  amiable  widow, 
who  was  now  deprived  of  her  second  husband. 

An  opportunity  now  offered  for  me  to  go  again  in 
pursuit  of  medical  aid ;  but  as  my  wife  was  also  in  ill 


ii 


t    . 


'JC.T- 


;i 


I  ^• 


328 


TEN  Y£ARS  IN   OREGON. 


health,  I  determined  to  remain,  and  if  our  sufferings 
were  to  continue  we  would  suffer  together,  and  in  the 
midst  of  our  comphcated  difficulties  we  had  abundant 
reasons  for  daily  expressions  of  gratitude  to  our  merci- 
ful Father  in  heaven. 

Mr.  Raymond  left  for  the  Walamet  on  the  10th,  as 
the  weather  was  very  pleasant,  for  the  purpose  of  get- 
ting some  supplies,  and  some  of  his  goods,  and  some 
farming  utensils,  and  returned  on  the  14th  of  Feb- 
ruary, in  the  evening ;  bringing  the  heart-rending  intelli- 
gence of  a  most  awful  disaster  which  took  place  on  his 
return  from  the  Walamet  Mission  to  the  Walamet  Falls. 
The  canoe  containing  his  goods,  and  Mr.  Crocker,  from 
the  state  of  New-York,  a  gentleman  much  respected, 
and  Mr.  Rogers,  son-in-law  to  the  Rev.  D.  Leslie,  a 
young  man  of  excellent  Christian  character,  and  of 
much  promise,  and  his  wife,  oldest  daughter  of  Mr. 
Leslie,  a  young  lady  much  beloved  by  all  who  knew 
her  because  of  her  amiable  disposition  and  Christian 
deportment,  and  her  youngest  sister,  a  child,  and  two 
Indians,  were  all  swept  over  the  falls,  and  in  this  awful 
manner  were  six  souls  ushered  into  the  presence  of 
their  God,  with  scarcely  a  moment's  warning.  Mr. 
Raymond  and  Doctor  White  had  but  just  stepped  out 
of  the  canoe,  and  were  making  arrangements  for  the 
others  to  do  so,  when  the  canoe  took  a  shear,  and  was 
caught  by  the  rapid  whirling  current,  and  was  carried 
down  without  a  possibility  of  being  slopped.  I  cannot 
dwell  upon  this  awful  event ;  for  whenever  I  call  it  to 
mind,  an  inexpressible  feeling  comes  over  me,  like  unto 
that  which  seized  my  shattered  nerves  when  the  intel- 
ligence first  reached  me. 

Doctor  White  came  down  with  Mr.  Raymond,  and  I 
was  glad  to  avail  myself  of  his  help  in  my  suffering 
state.  He  saw  proper  to  operate  upon  my  throat  by 
cutting  off  the  palate.  This  promised  temporary  relief, 
but  the  inflammation  had  become  so  thoroughly  seated, 
that  an  immediate  cure  could  not  be  expected.  He 
also  administered  to  our  other  difficulties,  and  remain- 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


329 


ed  with  us  until  the  27th,  when  he  left  for  Vancouver. 
By  him  I  sent  letters  to  the  superintendent  requesting 
my  discharge,  as  I  was  now  satisfied  that  my  health 
was  such  that  there  was  no  prospect  of  my  being  able 
to  render  any  more  efficient  service  to  the  mission,  and 
that  a  change  of  climate  was  necessary  in  order  to  my 
recovery. 

"  March  19.  We  have  had  most  delightful  weather 
since  the  17th.  I  never  saw  anything  to  exceed  it  in 
the  month  of  May  in  the  United  States.  No  material 
change  in  our  health.  My  palate  shorter,  but  throat 
very  much  ir.fiamed,  and  severe  pain  in  the  side  and 
back.  Mr.  Raymond  getting  out  fencing  stuff,  and  mak- 
ing preparations  for  farming.  Some  milk  and  butter 
from  our  cows,  the  fruit  of  our  former  toil.  Received 
aletter  from  the  superintendent,  containing  my  dismissal 
from  the  mission,  and  commenced  making  preparations 
for  my  departure  from  the  country." 

Mr.  Tibits  built  a  cabin  on  the  plain,  and  commenced 
preparations  for  farming.  Mr.  Smith  put  up  another 
log  house,  which  made  nim  a  more  comfortable  home. 
In  this  way  the  winter  and  spring  passed  away,  and 
on  the  1st  of  May  Mr.  Raymond  planted  a  field  of 
potatoes,  and  some  garden  vegetables,  and  Mr.  Smith 
got  in,  in  addition  to  potatoes  and  vegetables,  some 
wheat  and  barley,  oats  and  peas ;  and  Mr.  Tibits  did 
the  same.  So  that  our  little  community  began  to  pre- 
sent the  appearance  of  civilization.  Considering  the 
very  embarrassed  circumstances  under  which  we  had 
laboured,  it  was  acknowledged  by  those  who  visited  us 
that  a  great  change  had  been  effected  in  this  vicinity, 
which  was,  but  about  two  and  a  half  years  previous  to 
this,  in  an  entirely  wild  state,  when  Messrs.  Smith, 
Kone,  and  myself  entered  it  with  our  provisions  and  a 
few  tools  on  our  backs,  with  which  to  commence  ope- 
rations. >  - 

On  the  8th  of  April  I  left  Clatsop  for  the  Walamet 
via  Vancouver.  Attended  our  annual  meeting  at  the 
Walamet  Falls,  where  the  Rev.  A.  F.  Waller  has  been 


I 


k^ 


i 


330 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


labouring  for  the  benefit  of  the  few  Indians  in  this 
vicinity,  and  where,  on  the  sabbath,  he  also  preaches  to 
the  whites  who  reside  here,  among  whom  he  has  a  class 
of  church  members.  Mr.  Abernethy,  the  mission 
steward,  and  his  family,  also  reside  here.  The  mission 
buildings  at  this  place  consist  of  a  log  dwelling,  the 
one  which  Mr.  Waller  built  for  his  own  accommoda- 
tion, and  a  frame  dwelling  occupied  by  Mr.  Abernethy, 
and  a  very  good  framed  store-nouse.  Besides  these, 
there  are  at  that  place  two  saw-mills  and  a  flouring- 
mill,  and  about  twenty-six  other  buildings,  principally 
frame.  I  settled  my  accounts  with  the  mission,  and 
returned  to  Clatsop  on  the  8th  of  June,  after  making  a 
very  pleasant  visit  at  Vancouver  and  Astoria.  And  as 
the  company's  vessel  did  not  sail  to  the  Islands  until 
fall,  we  were  obliged  to  wait  until  an  opportunity  offer- 
ed by  which  we  might  take  passage  for  home. 

We  continued  to  enjoy  the  society  of  our  Clatsop 
friends  until  the  14th  of  August,  when  I  obtained  a 
passage  for  my  family  to  Oahu  via  California,  on  board 
of  the  bark  Diamond,  Captain  Fowler,  of  Scarborough, 
England.  The  Rev.  Daniel  Lee  and  Dr.  fiabcock  and 
families  have  also  taken  passage  with  us.  We  bid 
our  Clatsop  friends  adieu,  and  entered  on  board  on  the 
15th,  and  dropped  down  to  Baker's  Bay,  where  we  were 
obliged  to  lie  until  the  21st,  waiting  for  a  fair  wind  to 
cross  the  bar.  During  this  time  we  were  favoured 
with  the  society  of  Mr.  Birnie,  and  Mr.  Wilson,  the 
clerk  in  charge  of  Mr.  Cushion's  trading  establishment 
at  the  Walamet  Falls,  which  was  commenced  in  1842, 
and  for  the  successful  prosecution  of  which  a  vessel 
was  to  be  sent  out  annually  from  the  States ;  and  for 
two  days  before  we  left,  Mrs.  Birnie  and  children,  a 
very  interesting  group,  also  favoured  us  with  their 
company.  The  day  before  we  left  being  the  sabbath, 
Mr.  Lee  preached  to  us  in  the  grove  which  skirts  the 
bay.  On  the  morning  of  the  21  st  the  wind  sprung  up 
from  the  north,  and  as  it  was  fair  for  us,  we  were  all 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


331 


for 


ordered  on  board ;  and  now  we  took  leave  of  our  kind 
friends  of  Astoria,  who  with  their  canoes  proceeded  to 
their  homes,  and  we  weighed  anchor  and  crossed  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia. 

The  Rev.  J.  L.  Parrish,  my  successor  at  Clatsop, 
had  arrived  with  his  family,  and  had  taken  possession 
of  the  mission  house  previous  to  my  leaving  ;  and  the 
superintendent  of  the  mission,  and  the  Rev.  D.  Leslie, 
w|io  had  left  his  two  daughters  at  Oahu  at  school,  and 
had  returned  to  Oregon  on  board  of  the  Diamond,  and 
Mr.  Judson  and  family,  were  at  Clatsop  on  a  visit  when 
I  left  that  station. 

Our  vessel  is  under  fine  headway,  and  while  my 
companions  are  beginning  to  pay  tribute  to  "  Old  Nep- 
tune," I  am  taking  the  last  look  at  the  scene  of  my  toil, 
which  is  rapidly  fading  from  the  view.  Farewell,  fare- 
well, thou  aark,  wild  shore,  and  may  another  messen- 
ger of  mercy,  more  faithful  and  more  prosperous  than 
the  one  who  is  now  returning  to  give  an  account  of  his 
stewardship,  soon  tread  thy  blood-stained  soil!  and 
may  the  day  soon  dawn  when  all  those  who  float  upon 
thy  streams,  and  traverse  thy  forests,  shall  unite  in 
ascribing  praise  and  thanksgiving  unto  that  great  and 
good  Being  who  hath  watched  over  and  most  mercifully 
preserved  us  while  we  wandered  in  those  wilds  ! 

And  now  it  may  be  asked.  What  good  has  been  ef- 
fected by  the  toil  and  sufferings  of  the  three  years  and 
three  months  passed  in  Oregon,  a  brief  relation  of  which 
is  now  closed  ?  I  answer.  Much.  Much  crime  has 
been  prevented  among  the  natives.  Previous  to  our 
establishing  that  missionary  post  among  them  several 
murders  were  committed  by  them  every  year;  but  after 
our  settlement  there,  there  was  not  one  murder  com- 
mitted among  them  until  we  left,  except  that  which 
was  committed  while  they  were  under  the  influence  of 
alcohol^  as  has  been  already  stated.  And  although 
none  of  them  professed  to  be  religious,  yet  my  friend 
Mr.  Birnie,  who  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of  know- 


m 


I 


t('r 


332 


life-' 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


ing,  often  told  me  that  the  moral  character  of  the  Indians 
of  that  vicinity  was  evidently  improved.  And  besides 
this,  it  v^as  no  small  consolation  to  the  writer,  and  he 
thinks  it  will  be  the  same  to  the  Christian  reader,  to 
know  that  through  the  exertions  of  the  church,  the 
gospel  standard  has  been  reared  on  the  shore  of  the 
PacifiCf  around  which  a  civilized,  and,  in  part  at  least, 
a  Christian  community  is  rallying,  and  will  in  all  pro- 
bability continue  to  rally  until  the  consummation  of  all 
things,  when  Gabriel's  trump  shall  summon  the  nations 
of  the  earth  to  come  forth  and  receive  their  final  desti- 
nation. And  the  writer  does  not  in  the  least  regret  that 
he  embarked  in  that  enterprise,  although  he  now  re- 
turns to  his  native  land  with  but  little  hope  of  enjoying 
good  health  again  in  this  life ;  he  only  regrets  that  cir- 
cumstances were  such  that  he  was  enabled  to  accom- 
plish so  little  for  the  advancement  of  the  Redeemer's 
kingdom  while  in  that  country. 

We  ran  down  the  coast  before  a  fine  steady  breeze ; 
and  on  the  26th  dropped  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  St. 
Francisco,  on  the  coast  of  California.  This  is  an  ex- 
tensive bay,  and  a  most  splendid  harbour,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  well  adapted  to  grazing,  and  much 
of  it  to  the  growing  of  wheat  and  other  grains ;  but  the 
country  will  never  prosper  until  they  have  a  very  dif- 
ferent government  from  the  present.  On  the  afternoon 
of  the  29th  we  ran  down  to  Whaler's  Bay,  and  took  in 
a  supply  of  water ;  and  on  the  30th  we  set  sail,  and 
before  sunset  we  lost  sight  of  the  coast. 
.  At  California  we  took  three  more  passengers  on 
board.  The  one  was  an  elderly  gentleman,  a  descendant 
of  the  Finlandish  nobility,  a  gentleman  of  admirable 
qualities  and  of  extensive  research,  well  qualified  in 
every  sense  to  render  society  agreeable  and  happy,  and 
above  all  he  was  a  Christian.  I'he  other  two  gentlemen 
were  formerly  from  the  States ;  they  were  enterprising 
young  men,  and  very  agreeable  in  their  manners.  With 
this  accession  to  our  society,  and  the  very  kind  and 


V 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


333 


fentlemanly  treatment  which  we  received  from  Capt. 
'owler  and  his  officers,  our  passage  to  the  island  of 
Oahu  was  rendered  very  agreeable.  My  health  was 
such  that  I  was  able  to  deliver  one  short  discourse  on 
this  passage :  on  the  other  sabbath  Mr.  Lee  officiated. 
We  arrived  at  the  harbour  of  Honolulu,  Oahu,  on  the 
16th  of  September,  and  obtained  board  for  our  families 
at  the  residence  of  Mr.  John  Colcord,  a  Christian  bro- 
ther. We  were  very  happy  to  meet  with  our  friends, 
who  had  treated  us  very  kindly  when  on  our  outward- 
bound  passage. 

The  inhabitants  of  these  islands  have  been  in  quite 
an  uproar  for  some  lime  past,  in  consequence  of  some 
strange  transactions  by  the  French ;  and  from  the  fact 
that  Lord  George  Paulet,  commander  of  her  Britannic 
Majesty's  ship  Carrysfort,  had  more  recently  taken 
possession  of  these  islands  in  the  name  of  her  Majesty 
Queen  Victoria,  and  had  in  a  great  measure  overturned 
the  goveiTiL^ent,  which  had  a  tendency  to  derange  the 
business  r  '  >s  of  the  whole  kingdom,  and  to  impede 
the  progr*  r  the  evangelization  of  the  native  inhabit- 
ants. Eiit  by  the  arrival  of  another  British  war  ship, 
which  took  place  not  many  weeks  before  we  reached 
Oahu,  the  commander.  Rear- Admiral  Thomas,  of  the 
British  navy,  restored  the  Hawaian  flag  to  its  rightful 
owner,  Kam-ahamaha  IIL,  king  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands ;  by  which  measure  the  prospect  of  tranquillity 
and  prosperity  was  again  brightening. 

We  found  the  elder  of  the  two  daughters  of  the 
Rev.  D.  Leslie,  who  had  been  placed  by  their  father 
at  school  in  this  place  previous  to  his  return  to  Oregon, 
to  be  in  a  state  of  rapid  decline  ;  and  during  our  visit 
there  she  bid  adieu  to  this  world,  and  her  remains  were 
deposited  near  the  graves  of  the  late  members  of  the 
Sandwich  Island  Mission  who  had  been  called  to  their 
reward. 

We  found  the  cHmate  so  debilitating  that  my  health 
declined  rapidly.    This  prevented  my  enjoying  the 


f; 


334 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


society  of  our  kind  friends,  the  missionaries  and  foreign 
residents,  as  I  wished  to  do.  But  still  we  found  many 
things  for  which  to  be  thankful,  and  shall  never  forget 
the  many  kindnesses  we  received  from  our  friends  there. 
Mr.  Lee  and  myself  engaged  our  passage  to  Boston  on 
board  of  the  bark  Bhering,  Captain  B.  F.  Snow,  of 
Boston ;  but  she  was  not  to  sail  until  the  month  of 
November.  At  this  time  there  were  two  American 
war  vessels  in  the  harbour,  besides  a  number  of  mer- 
chantmen and  whalers,  but  none  of  them  that  had 
accommodations  for  passengers  were  bound  home. 
But  the  time  passed  away  ;  and  on  the  1  Sth  of  Novem- 
ber the  Bhering  was  ready  for  sea  ;  and  at  about  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  that  day  we  weighed  anchor, 
and  sailed  out  of  the  harbour  amidst  hearty  cheering 
from  the  shore,  and  from  the  \essels  lying  at  anchor. 
Dr.  Babcock  remained  at  Oahu,  designing  to  return  to 
Oregon  by  the  first  opportunity. 

The  trade  winds  were  very  strong  at  this  time,  so 
that  as  soon  as  we  had  cleared  the  coral  reef  outside 
of  the  harbour  we  found  ourselves  in  a  very  heavy  sea- 
way. This  tested  the  strength  of  our  nerves  in  the 
outset ;  and  although  I  had  up  to  this  time  boasted  of 
having  paid  no  "tribute  to  Neptune,"  I  was  now  obliged, 
though  very  reluctantly,  to  cast  up  accounts,  and  square 
up  all  arrearages.  This  work  was  not  accomplished  on 
my  part  until  the  next  day  about  noon ;  and  I  have  no 
disposition  to  open  accounts  with  the  ocean  god  again. 

On  the  8th  of  December  we  had  a  view  of  Marua, 
one  of  the  Society  Islands,  and  on  the  16th  of  January, 
1844,  we  passed  between  the  Diego  Ramares,  small, 
high,  rocky  islands,  and  Cape  Horn,  having  both  in  full 
view  at  the  same  time.  Here  we  found  the  weather 
somewhat  cold,  but  with  the  exception  of  occasional 
squalls  of  snow,  it  was  quite  pleasant,  and  the  ocean 
quite  smooth.  Four  or  five  sail  passed  us  in  the  morn- 
ing, to  the  windward,  on  their  outward-bound  passage ; 
but  not  within  speaking  distance.    The  sun  set  last 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


335 


night  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock,  and  rose  this 
morning  between  three  and  four  o'clock ;  and  it  was 
sufficiently  light  to  read  a  plain  print  while  sitting  on 
deck  at  ten  o'clock  at  night.  On  the  morning  of  this 
day  we  were  gratified  with  a  distant  view  of  a  splendid 
tornado,  to  the  south  of  the  Cape.  On  the  18th  we  had 
a  furious  gale  :  the  appearance  of  the  ocean  was  most 
wild  and  furious,  and  the  seas  so  heavy  that  we  were 
obliged  to  "  heave  to"  in  the  afternoon.  But  by  the 
next  morning  tb**  wind  abated,  and  we  proceeded  on  our 
voyage. 

On  the  5th  of  February  we  spoke  the  brig  Grace,  of 
Newcastle,  England,  bound  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
with  a  cargo  of  coal.  We  experienced  nothing  but  the 
ordinary  scenes  at  sea,  until  the  10th  of  March,  when 
we  were  in  latitude  about  12°  north.  Our  sails  were 
now  coloured  red,  with  a  sand  or  earth,  which  must 
have  been  blown  off  from  the  coast  of  Brazil  .or  Africa, 
by  a  hurricane,  which  was  nearly  spent  before  it  reach- 
ed us.      V    ' 

After  experiencing  four  heavy  gales  of  wind,  which 
were  accompanied  with  rain  and  some  snow,  within 
the  space  of  seven  days  past,  we  made  Cape  Ann  on 
the  morning  of  the  20th  of  March,  and  received  a  pilot 
from  Boston  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  at 
seven  o'clock  we  cast  anchor  in  the  harbour.  Thus 
ended  our  voyage  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  three 
days  from  Oahu.  And  we  were  very  happy,  after 
being  confined  on  ship  board  during  this  time,  to  reach 
the  land  again,  and  felt  that  we  had  special  cause  for 
gratitude  to  our  heavenly  Father,  whose  unseen  hand 
had  upheld  us  during  our  voyaging,  and  travelling,  and 
toils,  since  we  engaged  in  the  missionary  enterprise. 
Since  the  autumn  of  1839,  my  family  had  passed  a 
little  more  than  twelve  months  on  ship  board,  having 
sailed  about  forty  thousand  miles.  Our  voyage  from 
Oahu  was  rendered  very  comfortable  and  pleasant,  by 
the  very  kind  and  gentlemanly  treatment  that  we  received 


ii 


m 


-4 


336 


TEN  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


from  Captain  Snow,  his  officers,  and  crew.  Their 
kindness  shall  not  be  forgotten,  and  we  pray  that  they 
may  make  the  voyage  of  life  in  safety,  and  land  at  last 
in  the  harbour  of  endless  rest. 

We  spent  one  night  in  Boston,  and  were  cheered 
wit*,  an  interview  with  some  Christian  friends  residing 
/in  tl  J  city.  We  left  Boston  on  the  22d,  and  arrived  at 
New- York  on  the  23d. 

The  kind  and  most  affectionate  manner  in  which  we 
were  received  by  the  Board  of  Managers  of  the  Mis- 
sionary Society,  and  by  our  Christian  brethren  and 
friends  generally,  has  more  than  healed  all  the  wounds 
that  time  and  time's  sorrows  have  made. 


And  now,  in  view  of  the  foregoing  general  descrip- 
tion of  the  Oregon  Territory,  which  may  be  depended 
upon  as  being  correct,  we  ask  whether  those  do  not 
make  a  great  mistake,  who  sell  off  their  possessions, 
and  turn  their  backj  upon  the  rich  and  wide-spread 
prairies  of  our  western  states,  where  they  may  be  bless- 
ed with  the  protection  of  wholesome  laws,  and  every 
facility  for  the  accumulation  of  wealth  and  the  achieve- 
ment of  honour,  and  spend  the  strength  of  their  families, 
and  the  most  of  their  substance,  as  many  have  done, 
in  making  a  perilous,  and,  in  many  instances,  a  des- 
perate journey  across  the  Rocky  Mountains,  for  the 
purpose  of  reaching  an  unsettled  Indian  country,  that 
they  may  "  better  their  fortunes  ?" 

And,  again,  taking  all  the  very  embarrassing  circum- 
stances into  the  account,  under  which  the  missionaries 
have  been  obliged  to  labour,  I  ask  the  church  and  a 
candid  public,  whether  as  much  has  not  been  accom- 
plished toward  the  evangelization  of  the  inhabitants  of 
that  territory,  as  could  reasonably  have  been  expected  ? 

And  now  in  conclusion,  we  feel  that  we  have  done 


*-^ 


^ 


-4& 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


337 


our  duty  in  preparing  this  work  for  the  perusal  of  the 

Sublic,  and  we  hope  and  pray  that  it  may  have  its 
esigned  effect,  ana  that  the  blessing  of  the  God  of  all 
grace  may  attend  it  wherever  it  may  find  its  way,  and 
wat  the  writers  and  readers  may  employ  those  talents 
which  have  been,  or  may  hereafter  be  committed  unto 
them,  in  such  a  manner,  that  when  the  Master  shall 
come  to  reckon  with  his  servants,  we  may  hear  it  said, 
with  respect  to  us,  "  Well  done,  good  and  faithful  ser- 
vants ;  ye  have  been  faithful  over  a  few  things,  I  will 
make  you  rulers  over  many  things  :  enter  into  the  joy 
of  your  Lord."** 
■3$  15      ■  •     ".     >    .    "''" 


^v-- 


<^. 


*  s» 


■v-   J^^ 


m 


^B" 


TBN  YSABS  IN  OEBOON. 


t 


8dt 


APPENDIX. 


A  SPECIMEN  OP  INDUN  DIALECTS. 


KILLEMOOK  DIALECT. 
This  clan  inhabits  a  region  of  country  to  the  south  of  Cape  LookoxtL 

PRONOUNS. 


I       . 

You 

They 

He  . 

She 

Whose 

My 

We 

Ye 

Their  . 

Our 


ilk 


Prairie  or  plain 

Water 

Man     .    . 

Woman 

Sand  beach 

Canoe 

House 

Blanket     . 

Axe      .     . 

See,  to  look 

None    .     . 

I  do  not  understand 

A  man  comes 

They  come    .    . 

Many  people  come 

Who  comes  ? 

Come  ashore 

Come  ashore  ye 

Go  to  the  house  you 


Untsuh, 
Unekeeh, 
Hla  ah  at  lab, 
Ta  at  lah, 
Hlah  at  lah, 
Kah  to  keefa, 
Un  suttle, 
tin  a  wahtle, 
Cul  a  cula, 
Clum  suns, 
Ne  wahtle. 


NAMES 


'■r'K 


ii*' 


OF  THINGS,  &c 

.  Kolote, 

.  Clah  ko, 

.  Ty  yel  a  ho, 

.  We  clats, 

.  Tes  ah  at  lo, 

.  Atsy  keetles, 

.  Tes  ne  nowin, 

.  Clan  a  lats  o, 

.  Clah  kyts  ton, 

.  Ya  hase, 

.  Ke  stow, 

.  Cas  kots  canoya  untsuh, 

.  T3ryelaho  tasea, 

.  Hlahahatlah  tasea, 

.  Clanatle  stawat  tases, 

.  Cato  keep  tasea  ? 

.  Ocheahoh  cheso, 

.  Cheuku  culacula  cheso, 

.  Ahatlah  tesnenowto  unekeeli. 


^ 


.4*-. 
■f 


340 


TEN  YEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Where  is  that  axe  ? 
I  know  not  where    . 
"Whose  canoe  is  that  ? 

Make  a  canoe,  you  . 

Get  your  hat  .    .     . 

Yonder  it  lies     .     . 
It  lies  in  the  house 
I  come      .... 
You  come      .    .     . 
We  come  .... 


When  will  you  come  ? 

By  and  by  I  will  come 
Give  me  your  hand 
What  ails  you  ?  .     . 
Whose  is  that  boy  ? 
Will  you  trade  ? 
Let  us  trade  now    . 
What  do  you  want  ? 
I  want  a  knife    .     . 
How  many  knives? 
To-morrow  I  will  give  you  ) 

a  knife ) 

It  rains  now !  .... 
It  will  stop  soon  .  .  . 
Now  we  will  go  and  catch  > 

salmon \ 

Perhaps  we  will  soon  get  I 

plenty ) 

To-night  we  will  eat  plenty 
To-morrow  we  will  get  more 

I  love 

You  love 

We  love 

They  love 

I  go 

You  go 

They  go 

Go  wiUi  me 


Chans  keeh  clahkytston  t 

Nacahhah  chans, 

Cato  keeh  atsy  keetles  ? 

Ahhunnah  atsy  keetles  une- 
keeh, 

Cannan  unekeeh  testeetka 
cotton, 

Kah  e  stock. 

Stock  tesnenowin, 

Untsuh  tasea,        .     .     . 

Unekeeh  tasea, 

Unawahtle  taseeahtle, 

Hunsey  keeh  coatseuse  une- 
keeh ? 

Eslany  untsuh  coatseuy, 

Chalsitsa  isnucheachy, 

Chas  keeh  ne  keeh? 

Katokeeh  cheuts  ? 

Cah  see  whyawhyatle  ? 

Cha  kets  whyawhyatle, 

Tahi  keeh  hesuins  ? 

Hoaktin  skesuany, 

Cahnucts  kee  hoaktin? 

Cowusks  cachalsee  hoaktin, 

Kate  cah  loatle  !         "  ^  ' 

Eslany  cheatlah, 

Eslany    quocas    howoyettle 

tusleuck, 
Clanatle  nacahah  ocashowo- 

yettle  eslany, 
Huntul  sohatleyatle  clanatle, 
Cowusks  ocashowoyettle, 
Unsuh  skesuany,  . 

Unekeeh  skesuany,  \ 

Unawahtle  skesuanyatle, 
Chunsuns  skesuins, 
Unsuka  hatley, 
Unekeeh  ahhatlee, 
Chunsuns  cahhatle, 
Ahcahtsa  untsuh,        "  *^ 


iSftI* 


T£N  YEARS  IN  OREGON.  341 

I  will  go  with  you  .     .     .  Untseeh  cahcahtsee, 

Will  you  go  with  me  ?       .  Unekeehee  cahcahts  unseeh? 

My  father Untsuh  allah, 

Your  father Unekeeh  islahhah, 

Our  father Newahtle  talieahtle, 

Their  father       ....  Chunsuns  lahahcus, 

He  speaks  or  talks  .    .     .  Chenatle  cheouins, 

I  have  come  a  long  way  .  Ho  tie  tasee  untsuh, 

Make  a  fire Ho  kone, 

Give  me  salmon      .     .     .  Chalsitsa  tusleuck, 

I  am  hungry       .     .     .     .  Shotoyah  untsuh, 

My  heart  is  now  good  .    \  Tohoatsnoyah  teyinecas  unt- 

Long  ago  my  heart  was  }  Tehalatle  tah  til  te  yinecas 

bad )      untsuh, 

Chief Asahtshin, 

An  important  chief  .     .     .    Cas  sesowahtle  asahtshin. 

An  old  Killemook  man,  whose  son  was  drowned  far 
from  home,  expressed  his  grief  in  the  following  manner : 
"  Hatch  e  ki  ah,  hatch  e  U  ah,  hatch  e  ki  ah,  hatch  e 
ki  ah;  che  kah,  che  kah,  che  kah,  che  kah,"  i.  e.  Oh  my 
child,  oh  my  child,  oh  my  child,  oh  my  child ;  my  child, 
my  child,  my  child,  my  child.  And  these  expressions 
were  attended  with  the  tearing  of  his  silvered  locks,  and 
the  scratching  of  his  body  with  his  nails,  and  the  smiting 
of  his  breast,  and  such  expressions  of  the  countenance  as 
indicated  the  deepest  anguish  of  spirit. 

*     ■"    %.'"" 

CHECALI8H  DIALECT. 
The  Checalish  Indiana  reside  to  die  north  of  Cape  Disappointment. 

PRONOUNS.       -  .      '      ^ 

I  or  me Ants,       '     ■  ^        .'M[i^ 

You Nauah,  '  " 

He Tesitnah, 

She Tesitnah, 

We Oshatlchihlah, 

Ye  or  you Alap, 

They    .     .     .     ...     .    Tsadinta. 

Their  chief  deity    .    .    .    Yeloput  or  Siloput, 


342 


TBM  TEARS  IN  OREGON. 


Man     ... 

• 

i 

• 

.    Stenh, 

Boy    ".    .    .    . 

« 

1 

.    Stehoh, 

Woman    .     .    . 

i 

.    .    Skaiklehl, 

Girl     .... 

1 

.    .     SkaiaklentI, 

Young  woman 

.     .     Claledlintl, 

The  human  body 

.     .     Paitstitsa, 

The  head  .     . 

.     .    Tematins, 

Hair      .     . 

.     .     Klikwatens, 

Forehead  . 

.     .    Taspotus, 

Ear  .    .    . 

.     .    Taqualant, 

Eye      .    . 

.     .    Tamose, 

Nose    .     . 

.    .    Tamakas, 

Nostrils 

.     .     Taslipahuks,    *'^ 

Teeth  .    . 

.     .     Tayidents, 

Tongue     . 

.     .     Tahutsl, 

Eyebrows 
Chin     .    . 

.     .     Tasoenteen, 

.    .    Taskadlints, 

Neck    .    . 

.    .    Tachisp, 

Throat 

.     .     Silahome, 

Windpipe  . 

.     .    Tahokehoke, 

Breast  .    . 

.     .    Nawaiawhats, 

Heart  .    . 

.     .    Squadlam, 

Shoulder  . 

.     .     Hlakadinst, 

Arm      .    . 

.     .    Tashohemitsens, 

Elbow  .    . 

.     .     Matsa, 

Thumb      .     . 

.     .    Nawohatse, 

First  finger 

.     .    Ahost, 

Second  do.     . 

.    Anesonowaitsa, 

Third  do.       . 

.    Ahitsoho, 

Fourth  do.     . 

.    Tsohonu, 

Thigh.    .    . 

.    Tsaispitsa, 

Knee  .     .     . 

.     Taadnst, 

Leg     .     .     . 

.     Tsotls, 

Ankle  .     .     . 

.     Mahamahas, 

Foot     .    .    . 

.     Stallash,           '^ 

Fire     .     .     . 

.     Machipe, 

Make  a  fire   . 

• 

.     Pokochipe, 

Put  out  the  fire  . 

.     Kwiakee, 

Come  in  the  house . 

.    Eselotstowatl, 

Cold    ... 

.     Cleloh, 

Warm  .    .    . 

« 

• 

.    Whadlah, 

♦■ 


*,♦'»:; 


•fi 


TIN  TBABS  IN  ORKOOIT.  343 

Rain Stolts, 

Snow Slahkok, 

Ice Sthoua, 

House Hash, 

Hone Stekeu, 

Buffalo Chuvewhalak, 

Dog Kahhah, 

Potatoes Tenneemas, 

Bat  or  flying  mouse     .    .  Patouksenitsai    .     • 

Racoon Kwalas, 

Musket Tecletsenups, 

Knife Chano, 

Fork Sitssitstle, 

Powder  horn      ....  Suchadlii^. 

CLATSOP  DIALECT. 

The  Clatsopa  reside  on  the  south  side  of  the  Coluflahia  Rirer. 

f  i    ^  PRONOUNS. 

I Nika, 

You Mika, 

He Yohka, 

She Ahka, 

We Elhika  or  nesika, 

Ye  or  you Mesika, 

They Klaaka, 

Ours Nesika, 

Yours Mesika, 

Theirs Hlaska. 

Man Coatlalikum, 

Woman Cloachaman,  "''■ 

Brother Ow, 

Sister Ats, 

Slave. Eliaty  or  mischemus, 

Pipe Olomboh, 

Tobacco Kinutle, 

The  chief  deity  ....  Acama, 

The  bad  spirit    ....  Exclahou, 

Dead Mamaluste, 


344 


TEN  TEARS  lH  OREGON. 


To  eat 

.    Nohelholaboh, 

Idle     ...... 

.    Nobuckata  nika, 

Breath,  spirit,  or  soul  . 

,     .  '  Yahanetty, 

Heart 

Esquamanahle, 

I  will  take  a  smoke 

.    Kinutle  nohel  hdabah  nika, 

Salmon     .... 

.     .     Qunache, 

Dog 

.     .    Kamuks, 

Deer 

.     .    Mouits, 

Elk      ..... 

.    .    Molock, 

Horse 

.     .     Cuetan, 

Cow 

.     .    Moosmoos, 

Bear 

.     .    Atchho&t, 

Wolf 

.     .     Lalo, 

Bird 

.     .     Culacula,                     ' 

Wild  goose    .     .     . 

.     .     Culluckalahbah, 

Duck 

.     .     Quahquah, 

Wood 

.     .    Tubits, 

Finger  ring    .     .     . 

.     .     Quiaqaia, 

Sash 

.     .     Oquivaquah, 

Powder  horn      .     . 

.     .    Omuckwell, 

Musket     .... 

.     .     Shuckwalellah, 

Black 

.     .    Kleloh, 

White 

.     .    Tekope, 

Blue 

.     .     Spuck, 

Red     ....     . 

:    ;    Pilpil, 

Green 

.     .     Fetish, 

Strawberries       .     . 

.     .    Ommoty, 

Whortleberries   , 

.    Conespuck, 

Cranberries   .     .     .     . 

.     Sulumisha,          '     ' 

Gooseberries      .     .     . 

.    Commosock.       * 

i  could  give  more  extensive  examples ;  but  the  above 
will  be  sufficient  to  show  the  difference  between  the  dia- 
lects of  the  different  clans  that  visit  the  Columbia  River 
during  the  salmon  season.  There  are  perhs^s  five  hundred 
individuals,  the  remnants  of  five  different  tribes,  that  fish 
on  the  Columbia,  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  the  Cath- 
lamet  Islands,  a  distance  of  about  twenty-five  miles ;  and 
the  dialects  of  these  clans  difier  from  each  other  as  much 
as  the  examples  do  which  I  have  given  above. 


■ff 


i^i.  .>&Uu0.'u  ,im 


■■!    i 


. .  * 


